KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

17
KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements March 2010 For clarification of any Kmart standard, contact: Kmart Quality Team L4, 690 Springvale Road Mulgrave Victoria 3170 Australia Tel: (03) 9902 2000

Transcript of KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

Page 1: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements March 2010

For clarification of any Kmart standard, contact: Kmart Quality Team L4, 690 Springvale Road Mulgrave Victoria 3170 Australia

Tel: (03) 9902 2000

Page 2: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 1

Table of contents

Introduction .................................................................................................................................... 2

Kmart Fabric Performance Compliance System ........................................................................ 3 Introduction Vendor Responsibilities Test Reports Test Requirements Apparel Fabric Performance Test Requirements ....................................................................... 6 Colourfastness Tests .................................................................................................................... 8 Physical Tests ................................................................................................................................ 9 Washing Methods to Determine Shrinkage & Spirallity Based on Fibre Types ...................... 10 Strength Requirement based on Garment Type ......................................................................... 11 Testing Laboratories ..................................................................................................................... 12 Kmart Test Methods—Apparel and Home Textiles .................................................................... 14

Page 3: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 2

Introduction

This document is for:

Kmart Quality Team team members

Kmart Buyers

Vendors

Manufacturers

Agents.

This document provides information about the Kmart textile requirements for Apparel products that are ranged in Kmart. Use this document in conjunction with the following standards:

Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Finished Measurements

Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Care Instructions

Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship

KQCS Kmart Quality Compliance Standard.

Intro

du

ctio

n

Page 4: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 3

Kmart Fabric Performance Compliance System

Introduction All Kmart Apparel vendors must be familiar with and comply with the fabric performance requirements within this standard. This document contains:

Apparel Fabric Test Requirements Guidelines

Apparel Fabric Colourfastness and Physical Performance standards.

Vendor responsibilities

Understand Kmart requirements.

The fabric purchase orders must include the following:

Kmart requirements.

Indicate whether or not contrast trims/fabrics will be used on the garment, for example ―This fabric will be trimmed with white binding‖.

Indicate whether further processing will take place, for example ―placement print‖, ―garment washing‖.

Request a Test Report to be delivered with the production fabric.

Fabric to be tested by an independent laboratory and test reports received should be an original PDF format.

Ensure all test reports conform to Kmart requirements prior to the commencement of production.

QTA1/contract details:

fabric details on the QTA1 and Kmart contracts must be correct. Any changes to these details must be communicated to the Kmart Merchandise team to ensure all documentation is altered to reflect the correct details.

the Fabric weight must not be stated as a range. It must be the single value specified by the fabric manufacturer.

Exception Reporting When a fabric/garment does not conform to Kmart requirements and could be considered commercially viable to be sold in Kmart stores, refer to KQCS Part 3—Section E: Exception Reporting.

Query Form Fabric Query Form.

Test reports Laboratory test report application requirement includes:

Style name or number—where it is multiple styles, please list as many as possible to ensure all styles are covered.

Kmart name as brand.

If fabric submitted—clear description of fabric type with correct fibre content. The tested colour names must duplicate colourway names on the order.

If garment submitted—clear description of style name or number, garment type, fabric type and correct fibre content.

Indicate if raw material ie: greige fabric or bulk production.

Indicate clearly each component if there is more than one component within the garment, for example Pink cotton interlock top, Black Polyester/Cotton jersey pant and Black Nylon Lace trim for pant.

Give permission for the laboratory to post the test report on their internet database for easy access for Kmart Merchandise and Quality teams.

Indicate the garment‘s nominated care instruction—this is particularly important for appearance after washing test criteria.

Indicate if the test report is for a resubmission.

Km

art F

ab

ric P

erfo

rma

nce

Co

mp

lian

ce

Sy

ste

m

Page 5: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 4

It is the vendor‘s responsibility to ensure the following:

fabric conforms to all the details specified on the Kmart contract, for example Fabric weight, construction, etc.

Test Reports conform to Kmart requirements prior to the commencement of production.

All test reports must be checked and approved by the Apparel vendor. All reports must be signed and dated by the person responsible as designated on the Vendor Profile.

Vendors must:

e-mail electronic copies (original pdf format) of test reports to a Kmart Textiles Product Technologist before pre production samples.

submit test reports for every Garment Style

Test reports must be no older than 12 months. The e-mail shall contain garment style number(s), Kmart Department numbers, and completed QTA1(s) and Query Form where required.

Test requirements Multiple styles Multiple colours of one fabric across one style or several styles from the same Mill/batch. At least one colour to have the physical tests, except pilling.

Multiple styles

NUMBER OF COLOURS NUMBER OF SAMPLES FOR PHYSICAL

TESTS

1–5 1

5–10 2

10–15 3

>20 4

If the same fabric is used in other styles, which have not been listed on the test report, we require a declaration from the vendor. This declaration is to state the test report number of the fabric and the additional style numbers that the fabric has been used in. Pilling must be tested on all colours. Multiple fabrics Where there is more than one fabric used within a garment or style, all fabrics are to be:

tested

compatible with each other. The style name, number and fabric type must be clearly listed and described within the test reports. The QTA1 and contract must clearly specify all fabric types and where its position is within the garment. Multiple components All trims, linings, interlining, filling etc. should be tested to comply with the same characteristic of the shell fabric. All embellishments and trims must be tested for appearance after washing to ensure all components are washable and maintain a satisfactory appearance after washing. The wash method is determined by the garment‘s nominated care instruction. This can be tested in a garment form with trims and embellishments attached as per bulk.

Km

art F

ab

ric P

erfo

rma

nce

Co

mp

lian

ce

Sy

ste

m

Page 6: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 5

Industrial garment washing/wash finishes The supplier must submit a garment for testing that has undergone all intended washing finishes, for example enzyme wash, stone wash. Perform both physical and colourfastness testing on the garment after this final stage. Print fastness Assess print fastness or print quality after 3 washes with intermediary drying between washes using the garments nominated care instruction. The quality of the print is assessed prior to and after washing, the criteria to be checked includes fading, peeling, poor print registration, cracking, cross staining and general appearance. Colour matching The supplier must ensure that all batches of fabric are shade colourmatched using the light source TL84. The grey scale rating is to be a minimum of rating 4. All panels within a garment should be colourmatched. All trims or accessories that have been agreed to be colourmatched must also follow this standard. Spirallity Check garment spirallity prior to and after washing. Initially this is a visual inspection, if garment spirallity is detected, by which the side seam is not ―in-line‖ with the garment side, (where the seam is not a design feature), it is to be tested for spirallity. If no garment spirallity is found prior to washing, an after wash result is still required. The percentage result is achieved by measuring the length and the side seam movement. The calculation is: X ÷ Length x 100/1 Where X = side movement. Fabric Spirallity on knits is determined by the amount of variation from the right angle of the four corners of the dimensional stability template, this is to be stated as a percentage. Assess the fabric prior to and after washing by assessing the variation from right angles of the wales and courses. Claims When a claim is made, on packaging or point of sale (including catalogues), it must be substantiated through documentation. Test reports and certificates are required for approval. Any claim associated with raw material, for example Egyptian or Organic cotton, requires a documentation trail from the beginning (grower) to the end of production showing batch coding and certification that the item went through each process. The following are examples of claims:

Anti pilling

Egyptian cotton

Organic cotton

Anti bacterial

Moisture management

Visibility for work wear.

Km

art F

ab

ric P

erfo

rma

nce

Co

mp

lian

ce

Sy

ste

m

Page 7: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 6

Apparel Fabric Performance Test Requirements

The performance and colourfastness requirements below are Kmart minimum. A tick () indicates that this is a mandatory test. Physical testing to be carried out on one colour at random, refer to ‗Test Requirements‘ section. All colours to be tested according to table below.

Apparel Fabric Guidelines for Testing

TESTS WOVEN KNIT

COLOURFASTNESS TESTS

COLOURFASTNESS TO WASHING MEDIUM TO DARK SHADES

ALL MEDIUM TO DARK CONTRAST TRIM AND MAIN BODY FABRICS

COLOURFASTNESS TO RUBBING MEDIUM TO DARK SHADES

COLOURFASTNESS TO WATER MEDIUM TO DARK SHADES

ALL MEDIUM TO DARK CONTRAST TRIM AND MAIN BODY FABRICS

COLOURFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION MEDIUM TO DARK SHADES OF SWIMWEAR, ACTIVE WEAR,

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

COLOURFASTNESS TO LIGHT SWIMWEAR, OUTDOOR WORK WEAR, SCHOOL WEAR

COLOURFASTNESS TO SEA WATER SWIMWEAR, BOARDSHORT AND ASSOCIATED APPAREL EG:

SARONGS

COLOURFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED WATER SWIMWEAR, BOARDSHORT AND ASSOCIATED APPAREL EG:

SARONGS

COLOURFASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING DRY CLEAN ONLY ITEMS

PHENOLIC YELLOWING WHITE CORSETRY, WHITE SPORTS WEAR (FABRIC AND ALL

COMPONENTRY AND TRIMS)

PRINT FASTNESS (AFTER 3 WASHES) ALL PRINTS

DURABILITY OF ―GLOW IN THE DARK‖ (AFTER 5 WASHES)

A PRINTING PROCESS THAT GIVES A PHOSPHORESCENT FINISH AND

THEREFORE ―GLOWS IN THE DARK‖ AFTER IT HAS BEEN EXPOSED TO LIGHT.

PHYSICAL TESTS

FIBRE CONTENT WOOL/WOOL BLEND

OTHER FIBRES VERIFY % CLAIM

WOOL/WOOL BLEND OTHER FIBRES VERIFY %

CLAIM

FABRIC WEIGHT

GARMENT WEIGHT VERIFY TO CONTRACT

WHERE REQUIRED

CONSTRUCTION VERIFY TO CONTRACT

(ENDS/PICKS) VERIFY TO CONTRACT

(WALES/COURSES)

YARN COUNT VERIFY TO CONTRACT

WHERE REQUIRED VERIFY TO CONTRACT

WHERE REQUIRED

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY (AS PER FIBRE TYPE)

SPIRALLITY/SKEW (AS PER FIBRE TYPE) DENIM JEANS

ALL NATURAL FIBRE AND NATURAL BLENDS:

SINGLE KNIT AND PIQUE

TRADITIONAL KNIT

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING (AFTER 1 WASH AS PER CARE INSTRUCTION)

WASHABILITY OF ALL TRIMS, MULTIPLE FABRICS AND

EMBELLISHMENTS

WASHABILITY OF ALL TRIMS, MULTIPLE FABRICS AND

EMBELLISHMENTS

DURABILITY OF GLITTER AND ―GLUED‖ TRIMS/EMBELLISHMENTS (AFTER 3 WASHES AS PER CARE INSTRUCTION)

Ap

pa

rel F

ab

ric P

erfo

rma

nce

Te

st R

eq

uire

me

nts

Page 8: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 7

Apparel Fabric Guidelines for Testing

TESTS WOVEN KNIT

PILLING (AFTER 1 WASH)

SYNTHETIC BLENDS FOR JACKETS, PANTS AND

SKIRTS WOOL/WOOL BLEND WORK

AND SCHOOL WEAR

SYNTHETIC AND SYNTHETIC BLENDED WEFT KNIT

FABRICS WOOL/WOOL BLEND WORK

AND SCHOOL WEAR

SEAM SLIPPAGE

ALL FABRICS BELOW 150GSM AND THE

FOLLOWING FABRICS: SATIN, SATEEN,

GEORGETTE, FLANNELETTE (OPEN WEAVE, LONG FLOATS OR BRUSHED

FABRICS)

TEAR STRENGTH

LOOSE/OPEN WEAVE WASH TREATMENTS

OVERDYED BRUSHED

WRINKLE RESISTANT TREATED

TENSILE STRENGTH (BREAKING FORCE) FLANNELETTE

OVERDYED FABRIC IF TEAR STRENGTH FAILS

BURSTING PRESSURE TIGHT FITTING ACTIVE

WEAR

STRETCH AND RECOVERY —

FABRIC FOR UNDERWEAR SWIM WEAR

ACTIVE WEAR RIB

CREASE RECOVERY WRINKLE RESISTANT TREATED VERIFY CLAIMS

WATER REPELLENCY WATER REPELLENCY CLAIMS

WATER PROOF WATER PROOF CLAIMS

MOISTURE MANAGEMENT (WICKING) VERIFY CLAIMS

UPF (ULTRA VIOLET PROTECTION FACTOR) VERIFY CLAIMS

HIGH VISIBILITY VERIFY CLAIMS

FLAMMABILITY ACCORDING TO AS/NZS 1249:2003

MICROBIOLOGICAL AND FUNGAL VERIFY CLAIMS

FORMALDEHYDE TO BE CONFIRMED

HEAVY METALS TO BE CONFIRMED

Ap

pa

rel F

ab

ric P

erfo

rma

nce

Te

st R

eq

uire

me

nts

Page 9: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 8

Colourfastness Test Requirements

Colourfastness Test Requirements—Minimum Requirements

CORDUROY, DENIM,

FLANNELETTE, PIGMENT DYED,

PIGMENT PRINTED

DARK COLOUR

MEDIUM COLOUR

LIGHT COLOUR**

<1/25 STANDARD

DEPTH

FLUORESCENT COLOUR

CONTRAST COLOUR WITHIN A GARMENT

COLOURFASTNESS TO WASHING

SHADE CHANGE 4 4 4 4 3/4 4

STAIN COTTON 3/4 4 4 4 3/4 4/5

STAIN NYLON 2/3 3 3/4 3/4 3 4/5

COLOURFASTNESS TO RUBBING

DRY 3/4 3/4 4 4 4 4

WET 2* 2/3 3 3 3 3/4

COLOURFASTNESS TO WATER

SHADE CHANGE 4 4 4 4 3/4 4

STAIN COTTON 4 4 4 4 3/4 4/5

STAIN NYLON 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3 4/5

COLOURFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

SHADE CHANGE 4 4 4 4 3/4 4

STAIN COTTON 4 4 4 4 3/4 4/5

STAIN NYLON 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3 4/5

COLOURFASTNESS TO LIGHT

SHADE CHANGE 4/5 4/5 3/4 3/4 2/3 4/5

COLOURFASTNESS TO SEA WATER

SHADE CHANGE 4 4 4 4 2/3 4

COLOURFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED WATER

SHADE CHANGE 4 4 4 4 2/3 4

COLOURFASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING

SHADE CHANGE 4 4 4 4

PHENOLIC YELLOWING

3/4

PRINT FASTNESS (AFTER 3 WASHES)

SATISFACTORY NEGLIGIBLE CRACKING AND PEELING

DURABILITY OF “GLOW IN THE DARK” (AFTER 5 WASHES)

SATISFACTORY, STILL FUNCTIONAL. THE ―GLOW IN THE DARK‖ AREAS STILL GLOW IN THE DARK

COLOUR MATCHING 4

*COLOURFASTNESS TO WET AND DRY RUBBING FOR CORDUROY, DENIM, FLANNELETTE, PIGMENT DYED, PIGMENT PRINTED

WHERE A GARMENT STATES IN THE CARE INSTRUCTIONS TO WASH BEFORE USE, IF THE COLOUR FAILS COLOURFAST TO RUBBING, THE GARMENT/FABRIC IS TO BE WASHED/DRIED ACCORDING TO THE CARE INSTRUCTIONS AND THEN TESTED AGAIN. BOTH RESULTS ARE TO BE REPORTED.

**LIGHT COLOUR LESS THAN 1/25 STANDARD DEPTH

Co

lou

rfas

tne

ss

Te

st R

eq

uire

me

nts

Page 10: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 9

Physical Test Requirements

Physical Test Requirements

PROPERTY WOVEN FABRIC KNIT FABRIC

FIBRE CONTENT

FOR 100% CLAIMS 100% (MIN) 100% (MIN)

FOR BLENDS ONLY 5% (MAX) 5% (MAX)

FABRIC WEIGHT -5%~+10% -5%~+10%

GARMENT WEIGHT — 10%

CONSTRUCTION (SETT OR COURSE/WALE DENSITY)

3% 3%

YARN COUNT (LINEAR DENSITY) 3% 3%

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

UNBRUSHED FABRIC 3% L 5%

W –5%~+2%

BRUSHED FABRIC 5% L 6%

W –5%~+2%

RIB L 5%

W –7%~+2%

SKEW/SPIRALLITY

GARMENT LENGTH LESS THAN 60CM 7% 7%

GARMENT LENGTH GREATER THAN 60CM 5% 5%

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING (AFTER 1 WASH AS PER CARE INSTRUCTION)

SATISFACTORY, MINIMAL CHANGE TO TRIMS, MINIMAL DISTORTION DUE TO DIFFERENTIAL DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, MINIMAL CHANGE TO EMBELLISHMENTS WHEN COMPARED TO

PRE-WASH SAMPLE.

DURABILITY OF GLITTER AND “GLUED” TRIMS/EMBELLISHMENTS (AFTER 3 WASHES AS PER CARE INSTRUCTION)

SATISFACTORY, NO DETACHMENT OF GLUED TRIMS AND EMBELLISHMENTS. NO DETERIORATION TO THE GLUE.

PILL RESISTANCE

NORMAL FABRICS TESTED AFTER 1 WASH 3/4 3

LOW PILL FABRICS TESTED AFTER 1 WASH — 3/4

SEAM SLIPPAGE REFER TO STRENGTH REQUIREMENT BASED ON GARMENT TYPE

TEAR STRENGTH REFER TO STRENGTH REQUIREMENT BASED ON GARMENT TYPE

TENSILE STRENGTH (BREAKING FORCE) REFER TO STRENGTH REQUIREMENT BASED ON GARMENT TYPE

BURSTING PRESSURE REFER TO STRENGTH REQUIREMENT BASED ON GARMENT TYPE

STRETCH RATES UPON THE STYLE OF GARMENT

STRETCH RATE MUST THE SAME AS FIT APPROVED SAMPLE.

RECOVERY RATES TO BE ADDED LATER.

CREASE RECOVERY BEFORE WASH 120 DEGREE

AFTER WASH (3 WASHES) 115 DEGREE

STAIN RELEASE INITIAL: 3.5

AFTER WASH (5 WASHES): 3

WATER REPELLENCY BEFORE WASH 90 AFTER WASH 80

WATER PROOF BEFORE WASH 100 AFTER WASH 100

MOISTURE MANAGEMENT (WICKING) 7CM (MIN) BEFORE AND AFTER WASH

UPF (ULTRA VIOLET PROTECTION FACTOR) VERIFY CLAIM AS PER STANDARD

HIGH VISIBILITY VERIFY CLAIM AS PER STANDARD

FLAMMABILITY VERIFY CLAIM AS PER STANDARD

MICROBIOLOGICAL AND FUNGAL NO GROWTH

FORMALDEHYDE 100PPM (MAX)

CHILDREN UP TO 6 YEARS 30PPM (MAX)

HEAVY METALS AS PER AS/NZS ISO 8124.3

Ph

ys

ica

l Te

sts

Page 11: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 10

Washing Methods to Determine Shrinkage & Spirallity Based on Fibre Types

Washing Methods to Determine Shrinkage & Spirallity Based on Fibre Types

FIBRES WASH METHOD FOR SHRINKAGE

DRYING METHOD RESTORATION

ACETATE WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY COOL IRON

ACRYLIC—WOVEN WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY DO NOT IRON

ACRYLIC—KNITS WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH SCREEN DRY DO NOT IRON

COTTON—WOVEN WARM MACHINE WASH LINE DRY STEAM PRESSING

COTTON—KNITS WARM MACHINE WASH LINE DRY STEAM PRESSING

COTTON/POLYESTER WARM MACHINE WASH LINE DRY STEAM PRESSING

ELASTANE—WOVEN WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY DO NOT IRON

ELASTANE—KNITS WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH SCREEN DRY DO NOT IRON

FIBRE BATTING WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH SCREEN DRY DO NOT IRON

FOAM PADDING WARM HAND WASH SCREEN DRY DO NOT IRON

HOLLOW FIBRE WARM MACHINE WASH TUMBLE DRY NO

MICRO FIBRE WARM MACHINE WASH TUMBLE DRY NO

LINEN WARM MACHINE WASH LINE DRY STEAM PRESSING

LEATHER WASHABLE WARM HAND WASH SCREEN DRY NO

NYLON WARM MACHINE WASH TUMBLE DRY NO

NYLON/COTTON WARM MACHINE WASH TUMBLE DRY NO

POLYESTER WARM MACHINE WASH TUMBLE DRY NO

POLYESTER/COTTON WARM MACHINE WASH TUMBLE DRY NO

POLYESTER/VISCOSE WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY NO

POLYESTER/WOOL WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY NO

POLYPROPYLENE WARM MACHINE WASH LINE DRY NO

POLYURETHANE WARM MACHINE WASH LINE DRY NO

PVC WARM MACHINE WASH LINE DRY NO

SILK WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY WARM IRON

SUEDE WASHABLE WARM HAND WASH SCREEN DRY DO NOT IRON

VISCOSE WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY COOL IRON

VISCOSE/POLYESTER WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY COOL IRON

WOOL—KNITS WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH SCREEN DRY HAND SMOOTH OUT

WOOL—WOVEN WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY WARM SETTING IRON

WOOL BLENDED KNITS WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH SCREEN DRY HAND SMOOTH OUT

WOOL BLENDED WOVEN

WARM GENTLE MACHINE WASH LINE DRY WARM SETTING IRON

Washing Methods to Determine Shrinkage, Spirallity & Appearance after washing

Warm Hand Wash —AS2001.5.4 simulated hand wash, 40°C Warm Gentle Wash —AS2001.5.4.7A gentle setting, 40°C front-loading machine —AS2001.5.4.8B gentle setting, 40°C top loading machine Warm Machine Wash —AS2001.5.4.5A normal setting, 40°C front loading machine —AS2001.5.4.4B normal setting, 40°C top loading machine Line Dry or Tumble-Dry is suggested according to above table Screen Dry is recommended for Wool, Acrylic and/or Elastane blended Knits

Wa

sh

ing

Meth

od

s to

De

term

ine

Sh

rink

ag

e &

Sp

irallity

Bas

ed

on

Fib

re T

yp

es

Page 12: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 11

Strength Requirement based on Garment Type

Strength Requirement Based on Garment Type

PROPERTY FABRIC TEST METHOD LEVEL A LEVEL B LEVEL C LEVEL D

TENSILE STRENGTH (BREAKING FORCE)

WOVEN AS2001.2.3.1 220 N 190 N 160 N 130 N

TEARING STRENGTH WOVEN AS2001.2.8 12 N 10 N 8 N 6 N

BURSTING PRESSURE KNIT AS2001.2.4 480 kPa 480 kPa 330 kPa 330 kPa

SEAM SLIPPAGE WOVEN AS2001.2.21 110 N 95 N 80 N 65 N

SEAM BREAKAGE GENERAL AS2001.2.20 110 N 95 N 80 N 65 N

Garment Type

GARMENT FITTING LEVEL GARMENT FITTING LEVEL

ANGEL SUITS (INFANTS)

NORMAL LOOSE

C D

PYJAMA ALL C

BLOUSES NORMAL LOOSE

C D

ROMPER SUITS (INFANTS)

ALL C

COATS NORMAL LOOSE

B C

SHIRTS NORMAL LOOSE

B C

CORSETRY & BRAS ALL C SHORTS NORMAL LOOSE

A B

DRESS NORMAL LOOSE

C D

SKIRTS NORMAL LOOSE

B C

DRESSING GOWNS ALL C SKIVVIES ALL C

GARMENT LINING ALL C SLACKS NORMAL LOOSE

A B

JACKETS NORMAL LOOSE

B C

SLOPPY JOES ALL C

JEANS NORMAL LOOSE

B C

SLEEP SUITS (INFANTS) ALL C

JOGGING SUITS TOPS BOTTOMS

C B

SUN SUITS NORMAL LOOSE

C D

KNIT WEAR ALL C SWIMWEAR ALL C

LEOTARD ALL B TANK TOPS ALL C

LOUNGE SUITS TOPS BOTTOMS

C B

TRACKSUITS TOPS BOTTOMS

C B

NIGHT DRESS NORMAL LOOSE

C D

TROUSER/JEANS NORMAL LOOSE

A B

CHILDREN‘S OVERALLS

ALL A T-SHIRTS ALL C

PILCHERS SETS (INFANTS)

NORMAL LOOSE

C D

UNDER WEAR

NORMAL LACE & POINTELLE STRUCTURES

C

D

Stre

ng

th R

eq

uire

me

nt b

as

ed

on

Ga

rme

nt T

yp

e

Page 13: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 12

Testing Laboratories for Textile, Clothing and Footwear

Introduction Laboratories may be used as long as they are NATA, SATRA or HOLKAS registered or have an equivalent accreditation. Test reports from Government accredited laboratories are not acceptable. International laboratories Refer to the table below for testing laboratories overseas that are familiar with Kmart testing requirements.

International Laboratories

LOCATION LAB NAME

ITS (INTERTEK)

SGS

QUALSPEC

AWTA (JSIC)

BUREAU VERITAS

Australian laboratories Refer to the table below for testing laboratories in Australia.

Australian Laboratories

CITY LAB NAME AND CONTACT DETAILS

[email protected] http://www.arpansa.gov.au/

[email protected] http://www.awta.com.au/Contacts/Melbourne_Laoratory/Melbourne_Contacts.htm

[email protected] http://www.csiro.au/resources/Textile-Testing-Rates.html

[email protected]

[email protected]

Tes

ting

Lab

ora

torie

s fo

r Te

xtile

, Clo

thin

g a

nd

Fo

otw

ea

r

Page 14: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 13

Australian Laboratories

CITY LAB NAME AND CONTACT DETAILS

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected] [email protected]

Tes

ting

Lab

ora

torie

s fo

r Te

xtile

, Clo

thin

g &

Fo

otw

ea

r

Page 15: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 14

Kmart Test Methods—Apparel and Home Textiles

Kmart Test Methods

TEST ITEMS STANDARD STANDARD NAME

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING AND DRY CLEANING (AFTER 1 WASH)

VISUAL ASSESSMENT AFTER WASHING AS2001.5.4:2005 AS2001.5.7

DIMENSIONAL CHANGE: DETERMINATION OF DIMENSIONAL CHANGE IN LAUNDERING OF TEXTILE FABRIC AND GARMENTS – AUTOMATIC WASHING METHOD. DIMENSIONAL CHANGE: ON DRY CLEANING IN PERCHLOROETHYLENE EXCLUDING FINISHING – MACHINE METHOD.

BREAKING FORCE AS2001.2.3.2 DETERMINATION OF MAXIMUM FORCE AND ELONGATION AT MAXIMUM FORCE USING THE GRAB METHOD.

BURSTING PRESSURE AS2001.2.4 DETERMINATION OF BURSTING PRESSURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS HYDRAULIC DIAPHRAGM METHOD.

COLOUR MATCHING VISUAL COMPARISON/TL 84

COLOURFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED WATER (AVAILABLE CHLORINE CONCENTRATION 20MG/L)

AS2001.4.5 DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED SWIMMING POOL WATER.

COLOURFASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING SOLVENTS PERCHLOROETHYLENE

AS2001.4.16 DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS OF TEXTILES TO DRY CLEANING SOLVENTS.

COLOURFASTNESS TO LIGHT AS2001.4.21 60 HOURS AS2001.4.B02 60 HOURS

DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS TO LIGHT USING AN ARTIFICIAL LIGHT SOURCE (MERCURY VAPOUR – TUNGSTEN FILAMENT – INTERNALLY PHOSPHOR – COATED LAMP). DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS TO ARTIFICIAL LIGHT: XENON ARC FADING LAMP TEST.

COLOURFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION (ALKALINE)

AS2001.4.E04 DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION.

COLOURFASTNESS TO RUBBING AS2001.4.3 DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS TO RUBBING.

COLOURFASTNESS TO SEAWATER AS2001.4.E02 DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS TO SEAWATER.

COLOURFASTNESS TO WASHING AS2001.4.15B DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS TO WASHING.

COLOURFASTNESS TO WATER AS2001.4.E01 DETERMINATION OF COLOURFASTNESS TO WATER.

CREASE RECOVERY BSEN22313

TEXTILE FABRIC – DETERMINATION OF THE RECOVERY FROM CREASING OF A HORIZONTALLY FOLDED SPECIMEN BY MEASURING THE ANGLE OF RECOVERY.

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEANING (AFTER 1 CYCLE)

AS2001.5.7 METHOD A NORMAL

DIMENSIONAL CHANGE: ON DRY CLEANING IN PERCHLOROETHYLENE EXCLUDING FINISHING – MACHINE METHOD.

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING AS PER CARE INSTRUCTION (AFTER 1 WASH)

AS2001.5.4:2005

DIMENSIONAL CHANGE: DETERMINATION OF DIMENSIONAL CHANGE IN LAUNDERING OF TEXTILE FABRIC AND GARMENTS – AUTOMATIC WASHING METHOD.

DURABILITY OF ―GLUED‖ TRIMS/ EMBELLISHMENTS (AFTER 3 WASHES) AS PER CARE INSTRUCTION

AS2001.5.4:2005

DIMENSIONAL CHANGE: DETERMINATION OF DIMENSIONAL CHANGE IN LAUNDERING OF TEXTILE FABRIC AND GARMENTS – AUTOMATIC WASHING METHOD.

FABRIC WEIGHT AS2001.2.13 DETERMINATION OF MASS PER UNIT AREA.

FEATHER & DOWN AS2479:2007 DOWN AND/OR FEATHER FILLING MATERIALS AND FILLED PRODUCTS.

Km

art T

es

t Me

tho

ds

Page 16: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 15

Kmart Test Methods

TEST ITEMS STANDARD STANDARD NAME

FIBRE CONTENT AS2001.7 AATCC TM20A ASTM D629

FIBRE ANALYSIS SERIES.

FIBRE DIAMETER ISO 137 TEXTILE TEST METHODS – WOOL – DETERMINATION OF FIBRE DIAMETER – PROJECTION MICROSCOPE METHOD.

FORMALDEHYDE ISO 14184-1 (IF FAILURE AFTER 1 WASH)

TEXTILES – DETERMINATION OF FORMALDEHYDE – PART 1: FREE AND HYDROLIZED FORMALDEHYDE (WATER EXTRACTION METHOD).

HIGH VISIBILITY AS/NZS 4602 AS/NZS 1906.4

HIGH VISIBILITY SAFETY GARMENTS. RETROREFLECTIVE MATERIALS AND DEVICES FOR ROAD TRAFFIC CONTROL PURPOSES PART 4: HIGH-VISIBILITY MATERIALS FOR SAFETY GARMENTS.

LINTING/PILE LOSS (AFTER 1 WASH)

WEIGHT CHECK BEFORE AND AFTER WASHING AND TUMBLE DRYING CALCULATED AS % LOSS

MICROBIOLOGICAL/FUNGAL AATCC TM147 AATCC TM30

ANTIBACTERIAL ACTIVITY ASSESSMENT OF TEXTILE MATERIALS: PARALLEL STREAK METHOD. ANTIFUNGAL ACTIVITY, ASSESSMENT ON TEXTILE MATERIALS: MILDEW AND ROT RESISTANCE OF TEXTILE MATERIALS.

PHENOLIC YELLOWING ISO 105-X18 TEXTILES – TESTS FOR COLOURFASTNESS – PART X18: ASSESSMENT OF THE POTENTIAL TO PHENOLIC YELLOWING OF MATERIALS.

PILE RATIO EN 14697 TEXTILES. TERRY TOWELS AND TERRY TOWELS FABRICS. SPECIFICATIONS AND METHODS OF TEST.

PILLING

KNIT FABRICS: ISO 12945-1 PILL BOX 14,400 REVOLUTIONS

TEXTILES – DETERMINATION OF FABRIC PROPENSITY TO SURFACE FUZZING AND TO PILLING – PART 1: PILLING BOX METHOD.

WOVEN FABRICS: TWC (IWS) 196 MARTINDALE PILLING TEST 1,000 REVOLUTIONS

MARTINDALE PILLING TEST METHOD.

PRINT FASTNESS (AFTER 3 WASHES) DURABILITY OF ―GLOW IN THE DARK‖ (AFTER 5 WASHES)

AS2001.5.4:2005

DIMENSIONAL CHANGE: DETERMINATION OF DIMENSIONAL CHANGE IN LAUNDERING OF TEXTILE FABRIC AND GARMENTS – AUTOMATIC WASHING METHOD.

SEAM SLIPPAGE AS2001.2.21 DETERMINATION OF SEAM OPENING DUE TO THE APPLICATION OF FORCE IN THE TRANSVERSE DIRECTION.

SPIRALLITY AS2001.5.4 REF TO SPIRALITY KQCATEX

DIMENSIONAL CHANGE: DETERMINATION OF DIMENSIONAL CHANGE IN LAUNDERING OF TEXTILE FABRIC AND GARMENTS – AUTOMATIC WASHING METHOD.

STAIN RELEASE AATCC TM 130 SOIL RELEASE: OILY STAIN RELEASE METHOD.

STRETCH AND RECOVERY BS 4294 LOAD 3KgF SPORTSWEAR LOAD 6KgF

METHODS OF TEST FOR THE STRETCH AND RECOVERY OF PROPERTIES OF FABRICS.

TEAR STRENGTH AS2001.2.8 DETERMINATION OF TEAR FORCE OF FABRICS USING THE BALLISTIC PENDULUM METHOD (ELMENDORF).

Km

art T

es

t Me

tho

ds

Page 17: KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements 150310

KQATEX1 Apparel Textile Requirements – Last Updated 15 March 2010 16

Kmart Test Methods

TEST ITEMS STANDARD STANDARD NAME

TENSILE STRENGTH (BREAKING FORCE) AS2001.2.3.2 DETERMINATION OF MAXIMUM FORCE AND ELONGATION AT MAXIMUM FORCE USING THE GRAB METHOD.

THERMAL INSULATION PERFORMANCE: RATE OF THERMAL DIFFUSION ANNEX A

BS 6526 DOMESTIC OVEN GLOVES – REQUIREMENTS AND TEST METHODS.

THERMAL RESISTANCE (WARMTH RATING)

BS 5335-1 DETERMINATION OF THERMAL RESISTANCE FOR QUILTS.

THREAD PER UNIT LENGTH (ENDS & PICKS) THREAD PER UNIT LENGTH (WALES & COURSES)

AS2001.2.5 AS2001.2.6

DETERMINATION OF THE NUMBER OF THREADS PER UNIT LENGTH IN WOVEN FABRIC. DETERMINATION OF THE NUMBER OF WALES AND COURSES IN KNITTED FABRIC.

TRIM & ACCESSORIES: ATTACHMENT STRENGTH

AS/NZS ISO 8124.1 SECTION 5.24.6

SAFETY OF TOYS PART 1: SAFETY ASPECTS RELATED TO MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES. REASONABLY FORESEEABLE ABUSE TESTS – TENSION TEST.

UPF AS/NZS 4399 SUN PROTECTIVE CLOTHING – EVALUATION AND CLASSIFICATION.

WATER ABSORBENCY (AFTER 1 WASH) TARGET TP 73

WATER PENETRATION-CONE TEST AS2001.2.18 DETERMINATION OF RESISTANCE OF FABRICS TO WATER PENETRATION – CONE TEST.

WATER PROOF AS2001.2.16 DETERMINATION OF WATER REPELLENCY OF TEXTILE SURFACES – SPRAY RATING TEST.

WATER REPELLENCY AS2001.2.16 DETERMINATION OF WATER REPELLENCY OF TEXTILE SURFACES – SPRAY RATING TEST.

WETTABILITY (AFTER 1 WASH) AATCC79 ABSORBENCY OF TEXTILES.

WICKING (AFTER 1 WASH) TARGET TP 77

WRINKLE RESISTANCE (APPEARANCE AFTER REPEATED HOME LAUNDERING)

AATCC 124 5 CYCLES APPEARANCE OF FABRICS AFTER REPEATED HOME LAUNDERING.

YARN COUNT AS2001.2.23 OR ISO 7211/5

DETERMINATION OF LINEAR DENSITY OF TEXTILE YARN FROM PACKAGES.

Km

art T

es

t Me

tho

ds