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The southwestern province of Jeollabuk-do (www.jeonbuk.go.kr) is Koreas rice bowl. The image of white egrets standing in terraced rice fields is a provincial icon. As Koreas agricul-tural heartland, this fertile, green area has influenced Korean cuisine more than any other part of the country.

For foodies, no trip to Korea is complete without eating your way through Jeollabuk-do. The provincial capital city of Jeonju is a must-stop for any fan of Korean food, especially for its most well-known export, bibimbap, a dish of rice, meat and vegetables served up by countless restaurants nationwide and abroad.

Rural Jeollabuk-do is an outdoor-lovers paradise. Much of this province is parkland. With unspoilt national and provincial parks covering its beautiful mountains, this rural province offers some of Koreas finest get-away-from-it-all hikes and scenery. In summer, sun wor-shippers head out to the white sandy beaches of the West Sea islands like Seonyu-do. In the winter, thrill-seekers descend on the slopes of Muju Ski Resort, offering the highest and most picturesque slopes in Korea.

Jeollabuk-do is deeply tied to its traditional culture and roots. Buddhist temples and folk villages abound. Modern Jeonju bumps up against its historic urban village of hanok (tradi-tional houses) containing craft workshops, museums and rustic teashops. The province is the birthplace of pansori, a traditional musical drama performed by a singer and drummer.

Jeollabuk-do

TELEPHONE CODE: 063 POPULATION: 2 MILLION AREA : 8050 SQ KM

HIGHLIGHTS

Get lost exploring the back alleys of the fascinating Jeonju Hanok Maeul village ( p307 )

Retrace Koreas most famous love story, Chunhyang-jeon, at the romantic Gwang-hallu-won Garden in Namwon ( p313 )

Ski or snowboard the slopes at Muju Ski Resort ( p312 )

Zip round Seonyu-do ( p317 ) on a nippy quad bike before relaxing on the beach

Amble through pretty Seonunsan Provincial Park ( p315 ) to a giant Buddha carving on a cliff

Be amazed by the unique rock-pinnacle temple garden in Maisan Provincial Park ( p311 ) in the shadow of Horse Ears Mountain

Namwon

Ski ResortMuju

Seonyu-doJeonju

Provincial ParkSeonunsan

Provincial ParkMaisan

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History The Donghak rebellion, led by Chon Pong-jun, took place mainly in Jeollabuk-do in 1893 when a ragtag force of peasants and slaves, armed with various homemade weapons, seized Jeonju fortress and defeated King Gojongs army, before being destroyed by Japanese forces. Their demands included the freeing of slaves, better treatment of the chonmin or low-born, the redistribution of land, the abolition of taxes on fish and salt, and the punishment of corrupt government officials. Jeollabuk-do and Jeollanam-do were one joint province until 1896; Jeonju was the capital of this combined province. Tourism has become an important source of income in recent years, thanks mainly to its numerous national parks.

National & Provincial Parks An atmospheric temple, coastal views and a waterfall are features of Byeonsan Bando National Park ( p316 ). Daedunsan Provincial Park ( p311 ) is a year-round, outdoor- lovers para-dise with hiking and skiing. Maisan Provincial Park ( p311 ) is famous for its Horse Ears mountains and mystical stone towers.

Moaksan Provincial Park ( p311 ) has a superb temple. Naejangsan National Park ( p314 ) has a great ridge hike. Pretty Seonunsan Provincial Park ( p315 ) is famous for its giant Buddha cliff carving.

Getting There & Around If you arrive by train or bus, base yourself in Jeonju, where buses radiate to every nook and corner of the province.

JEONJU pop 622,000 Jeonju (www.jeonju.go.kr), the provincial capital, is famous for being the birthplace of both the Joseon dynasty and Koreas most well-known culinary delight, bibimbap (rice, meat, egg and vegetables with a hot sauce). Centrally lo-cated, the city is the perfect base from which to explore Jeollabuk-do as its the regional hub for buses and trains. The downtown historical folk village has many outstand-ing hanok buildings housing museums, cute teahouses and workshops offering handmade souvenirs like paper products, fans, dolls, boxes and more.

(70km)To Daegu

Eocheong-doTo

JEOLLANAM-DO

GYEONGSANGNAM-DO

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CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO

CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO

Sunchang

Gyeokpo

Yeongdong

Buan

NamwonGochang

Jeongeup

Geochang

Jinan

Muju

JEONJUGimje

Iksan

Gunsan

SkiMuju

Resort

Mireuk-sa

AreaDevelopment

ComprehensiveSaemangeum

Hwaeom-sa

Anguk-sa

ParkNationalJiri-san

National ParkNaejangsan

ParkProvincialMoaksan

ParkProvincial

Maisan

Provincial ParkDaedunsan

(678m)Sutmaisan

(794m)Moaksan

(685m)Ammaisan

(763m)Naejangsan

(Yellow Sea)WEST SEA

Jangsong-hoDamyang-ho

ReservoirGaltam

Seonyu-do

Wi-do

Geumsan-sa

(878m)Daedunsan

Park Map (p314)National

See Naejangsan

Park Map (p312)

Park Map (p316)National

See Byeonsan Bando

Park Map (p315)Provincial

See Seonunsan

NationalSee Deogyusan

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Information Citibank (Daedong-gil) Global ATM and foreign currency.IBK 365 The blue machine under the pedestrian bridge is a global ATM.KB Bank (Girin-ro) Global ATM and foreign currency exchange.Main post office (h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) Free internet access.Main tourist information centre (%282 1338; Taejo-ro) Free internet access.Post office (China St)Shinhan Bank (Girin-ro) Global ATM and foreign-currency exchange.Tourist information centre bus terminal (%281 2739; outside Express bus terminal); Taejo-ro (%232 6293; outside Gyeonggijeon)

Sights & Activities JEONJU HANOK MAEUL Just southeast of Jeonjus modern down-town is Hanok Maeul (http://hanok.jeonju.go.kr), a wonderful historical urban neighbourhood untouched by time. This maeul (village) has more than 800 hanok (traditional Korean houses), which is one of the largest such con-centrations in the country. Residents retain their old ways and traditions. Many of the buildings contain museums, workshops, restaurants, teahouses and boutiques. You could spend all day exploring the narrow maze of alleys and architecture. Pick up a free English map at any tourist information centre.

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MaeulJeonju Hanok

Jeonju Stream

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CinemaPrimus

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Gyeonggijeon (; %281 2790; Taejo-ro; admis-sion free; h9am-6pm) was originally constructed in 1410, reconstructed in 1614 and contains a portrait of Yi Seong-gye, the founder of the Joseon dynasty (13921910), whose family came from Jeonju. Portraits of six other Joseon monarchs, and palanquins, are also on dis-play. On the left are shrines, storehouses and guardrooms relating to the Confucian rituals once held here. Treating ancestors with utmost respect was a cornerstone of the Confucian philosophy that ruled Korea for centuries.

The red-brick Jeondong Catholic Church (; %284 322; Taejo-ro; admission free) was built by French missionary Xavier Baudounet on the spot where Korean Catholics were executed in 1781 and 1801. Built between 1908 and 1914, the architecture is a fusion of Asian, Byzantine and Romanesque styles. The stained-glass windows portray early martyrs.

On a hill overlooking the entire village is Omokdae (), a pavilion where General Yi Seong-gye celebrated a victory over Japanese pirates in 1380, prior to his overthrow of the Goryeo dynasty. Cross the bridge to Imokdae (), a monument to one of Yi Seong-gyes ancestors written by King Gojong.

The Oriental Medicine Culture Centre (; %232 2500; www.hanbangcenter.com; admis-

sion free; h10am-6pm) offers medical tests and diagnosis (W1000 to W4000) and recommends herbal, acupuncture, moxibustion and massage therapies, but language can be a problem.

Housed in a beautiful old hanok, the Traditional Wine Museum (; %287 6305; admission free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) has a gosori (traditional still). You can learn how to make your own soju (Korean vodka) and, of course, taste and buy traditional Korean liquors.

See sheets of hanji (handmade paper) being manufactured in the Jeonju Korean Paper Institute (; %232 6591; admission free; h9am-5pm), housed in a gloriously atmos-pheric hanok down an alley. A slop of fibres in a big tank magically solidifies into paper. Purchase handmade paper products at the giftshop.

The tiny but fascinating Kkotsuki Gongbang (; Taejo-ro; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat) is a workshop where lessons are available in the art of making traditional Korean paper dolls.

Run by a third-generation Jeonju fan maker, the Folding Fan Museum ( ( ); %232 2008; 67 Eunhaeng-ro; admission free; h9am-9pm) has the tools of the fan-makers father on display along with antique fans. It takes 12 hours to complete one fan and the designs are burnt on by hand.

INFORMATION Citibank ................................................. 1 C3 IBK 365 ATM....................................(see 27) KB Bank .............................. 2 A1 Main Post Office .................. 3 C3 Main Tourist Information Centre G .....................................4 D4 Post Office ............................. 5 B4 Shinhan Bank .................. 6 C3 Tourist Information Centre G..................................... 7 C4

Tourist Information Centre G..................................... 8 C2

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Craft Treasures Centre ..................................9 D4

Folding Fan Museum GGGOGP ...............................10 C4

Gangam Calligraphy Museum ....................................11 C4

Gyeonggijeon ....................12 C4 Hanbyeokdang Pavilion ............................................. 13 D4

Imokdae Pavilion ............. 14 D4 Jeondong Catholic Church .........................................15 C4

Jeonju Gaeksa G..............16 C3 Jeonju Hyanggyo ........ 17 D4

Jeonju Korean Paper Institute ......................... 18 D4

Jeonju Traditional Life Experience Park ..............(see 30)

Kkotsuki Gongbang ....................................19 C4

Nambu Market ..............20 C4 Omokdae Pavilion ........... 21 D4 Oriental Medicine Culture Centre ...........22 C4 Pungnam-mun ..................23 C4 Traditional Wine Museum ................................24 C3

SLEEPING Art Hotel G ........................25 C3 Good Morning Motel ....................................26 C2

Hotel Hansung G ............27 C3 Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel ................ 28 D3

Jeonju Tourist Hotel ................................29 B3

Jeonju Traditional Life Experience Park .................30 C3

Seunggwangje ..................31 C4 Sydney Motel G ......... 32 D2

EATINGGimbap Maeul ..............33 C4 Jeonju-hyang .....................34 C4 Sambaekjip .........................35 B3 Traditional Culture Centre ............................... 36 D4

DRINKINGDaho Teahouse ............ 37 D4 Deepin .................................................38 C3 The Star ...............................................39 C4

SHOPPINGCore Department Store ....................................40 B2

Dongbu Market ............41 C3 Hanbok Shops ...............42 B4 Nambu Market ......................................(see 20)

Ntepia ..............................43 C3

TRANSPORTExpress Bus Terminal ...........................44 C2

Intercity Bus Terminal .......................... 45 D2

Local Bus Stop ......... (see 2)

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Housing the artwork and art collection of a well-known 20th-century calligrapher, Song Sung-yong ( pen name, Gangam), is Gangam Calligraphy Museum (; %285 7442; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun).

Stroll around Jeonju Hyanggyo (; %288 4548; admission free; h10am-7pm), a well-preserved and very atmospheric Confucian shrine, school and dormitory complex dating to 1603 (see right ).

The Craft Treasures Centre (; %285 4403; Taejo-ro; admission free; h10am-7pm) is a large complex of shops selling lanterns, boxes, ties, clothing and paper products. The court-yard is pleasant for a rest.

Just past the Traditional Culture Centre, go under the bridge to Hanbyeokdang Pavilion () on rocks overlooking the river, where herons, egrets and swallows can be seen in summer.

PUNGNAM-MUN An impressive stone-and-wood gateway is all that remains of Jeonjus fortress wall and four gateways. First built in 1398 but renovated many times since, it marks the beginning of the sprawling Nambu Market (), where farmers wives sell fresh produce.

JEONJU GAEKSA This rebuilt former government office is a downtown landmark that lends its name to the surrounding Gaeksa District, Jeonjus primary shopping and nightlife area.

DEOKJIN PARK Join Korean couples who hire paddleboats in this charming park (%281 2436; admission free; h5am-11pm), in the north of the city, to view the lotus lilies in July.

JUNGNIM ONCHEON Soak and steam all night and day in Jeonjus best hot-spring spa (%232 8832; admission W5000-7000; h24hr). A free shuttle bus (9.35am, 11.35am, 2.35pm and 4.35pm) leaves from outside the Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel ( p310 ).

Festivals & Events The Jeonju International Film Festival (www.jiff.or.kr) is a nine-day event every April/May that focuses mainly on indie, digital and experimental mov-ies. Around 200 films from 40 countries are shown in the Primus cinema multiplex and others nearby, many in English or subtitled.

Sleeping Budget and midrange hotels are located in the Gaeksa District; cheaper love motels surround the bus and train stations. For a truly unique experience, stay in a traditional hanok.

BUDGET Good Morning Motel (; %251 9948; r W30,000; ai) This big, blue, no-fuss motel has helpful staff and spacious rooms with modern, clean bathrooms. Rooms vary so look at more than one some have round, heated waterbeds; rooms with computers are W5000 extra.Sydney Motel ( ; %255 3311; r W30,000; ai) Located directly behind the inter-city bus terminal, this salmon-pink, clean love motel is nicer and less sleazy than its neighbours.

MIDRANGE Hotel Hansung ( ; %288 0014; Gaeksa; s/d W40,000/50,000; ai) This recently reno-vated hotel in the heart of the Gaeksa District offers Western and ondol-style rooms with TV, fridge and comfy robes. Its sparkling clean, modern and staff speak English. Rooms facing the main drag can be noisy on weekends.

Art Hotel (; %231 3807; Gaeksa; r W40,000-50,000; ai) Just east of the main pedestrian road in Gaeksa, this modern boutique- style hotel is newer and posher than Hotel Hansung, but not quite as warm or foreigner-friendly.

HYANGGYO & SEOWON

Hyanggyo were neighbourhood schools established by yangban (aristocrats) in the 1500s to prepare their sons for the seowon (Confucian academies), where the stu-dents took the all-important government service exams. The pupils studied Chinese characters and key Confucian texts. Over 600 seowon were spread across the coun-try, making Korea more Confucian than China. In the 1860s Regent Heungseon Daewongun forced most of them to close as he reasserted the kings authority, but the buildings remain as symbols of Koreans unwavering passion for education.

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oSeunggwangje (; %288 4566; r from W60,000) Live like a king at Jeonjus best hanok. The small rooms have TV, fridge, yo (padded quilt or mattress on the floor) and tiny, modern en-suite bathroom. Seunggwangje is owned by English -speak-ing Lee Seok, a grandson of King Gojong, who lives in the adjoining hanok. Its a special place down an alley with royal photographs on display. Breakfast is W5000.

Jeonju Traditional Life Experience Park (; %287 6300; www.jjhanok.com; r W60,000-120,000) Stay in tiny bare rooms and sleep on a yo in this newly built but traditional -style hanok. Prices include a Korean-style breakfast and free loan of a bicycle.

Jeonju Tourist Hotel (; %280 7700; r/ste W60,000/80,000; i) This reasonably priced tourist hotel has a retro feel and the central location is close to Jeonjus main en-tertainment and shopping area.

TOP END Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel (; %232 7000; core-riviera.co.kr; r/ste from W140,000/280,000; ai) Ask for a room overlooking the hanok district in Jeonjus best hotel, which has spa-cious rooms and suites that feature natural wood decor, glass showers and a computer. Live music livens up the Windsor Bar (beers/cocktails W5000/6600; open 6pm to 2am) at 10pm. There are also restaurants, a fitness club and a sauna.

Eating & Drinking For traditional fare, head to the restaurants and teahouses of Hanok Maeul. Modern res-taurants, bars and Western fast-food chains are located in the Gaeksa District, Jeonjus prime nightlife spot.

Gimbap Maeul (; meals W2000-4000; h10am-9pm) A small, clean eatery that offers budget meals such as gimbap (; sesame-oil flavoured rice wrapped in seaweed) that includes cheese, tuna and salad.

The Star (83 Gyeonggijeon-gil; drinks W2300-3500; h8am-late) Need a caffeine jolt? This lovely little coffeehouse offers coffees, espresso drinks and tea.

Sambaekjip (; meals W3500; h24hr) This restaurant specialises in kongnamul gukbap (), a local Jeonju dish of rice, egg, bean sprout and seasoning cooked in a stone pot. Its said to be a hangover cure and comes with side dishes.

Daho Teahouse (; teas W4000; h11am-midnight) The best of the hanok teahouses is down an alleyway and has rustic, goblin -sized rooms overlooking an attractive garden where birds flit around. Listen to ethereal music as you sip the excellent teas such as daechucha (; red date) and pink omijacha (; dried five-flavour berries).

Jeonju-hyang (; %284 2588; mains W12,000-20,000; h11am-10pm) Located in an old hanok, the popular Jeonju-hyang is regularly rated as one of the citys best traditional restaurants, offering huge set meals that can feed a small army.

Traditional Culture Centre (; %280 7000; meals W9000-30,000; h10am-9pm) A stylish, upmarket restaurant in a modernist building offers Jeonju bibimbap, galbi jeongsik (; ribs and side dishes) or a full-on hanjeongsik (; banquet). Next door is a teashop and a hall that hosts traditional music and dance shows.

oDeepin (%231 9695; Gaeksa; h7pm-4am) A foreigner-friendly watering hole, this tiny, dark and smoky bar is the local expat hang-out with comfy red couches, Polaroids and chalk messages on the walls, cool music and cheap beer. From the Jeonju Gaeksa, cross the main road, turn right, make an immediate left and go to the end of the street; Deepin is on the left, just passed the bricked Wedding St.

Shopping Hanbok shops are at the far end of Jungangno, while the bustling Dongbu and Nambu Markets sell everything under the sun. Ntepia (; h11am-11pm) is a large fashion store in the youthful Gaeksa District, sur-rounded by beauty shops and Western res-taurants such as Outback Steakhouse and Pizza Hut. Lotte (h10.30am-8pm) and Core (h10.30am-8pm) department stores are mod-ern shopping malls.

Getting There & Away BUS Destinations from the express bus terminal include the following:

Destination Price (W) Duration FrequencyDaegu 11,000 3hr hrlyDaejeon 4600 1hr hrlyGwangju 5800 1hr every 30minSeoul 11,000 3hr every 10min

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Departures from the intercity bus terminal include the following:

Destination Price (W) Duration FrequencyBuan 4000 1hr 5 dailyDaedunsan 5000 1hr 8 dailyGochang 5400 1hr hrlyGunsan 4200 1hr every 15minGurye (Jirisan) 7700 2hr hrlyGyeokpo 6600 2hr hrlyJeongeup 3200 1hr every 15minJinan 3600 50min every 30minMuju 7500 1hr hrlyNaesosa 6200 2hr 1 daily

TRAIN There are KTX (Korea Train Express; W29,600, 2 hours, 19 daily), Saemaul (ex-press; W25,400, three hours, four daily) and Mugunghwa (semi-express; W17,000, 3 hours, 14 daily) trains to/from Yongsan station in Seoul; KTX trains involve a change at Iksan. Trains also run south to Jeollanam-do.

Getting Around Numerous buses (W850) run from near the bus terminals to downtown, while buses 105, 509 and others run to the train station. Taxis are plentiful and cheap.

GEUMSAN-SA & MOAKSAN PROVINCIAL PARK , This park (%548 1734; adult/youth/child W2600/1700/1000; h8am-7pm), which contains Moaksan mountain (794m), is only 40 minutes from Jeonju and is a popular destination for hikers at weekends. The main attraction is Geumsan-sa, a temple that dates back to AD 599. To stay in the tem-ple (W40,000 including meals), contact the information office (%548 1330; h9am-6pm, closed 2 weekdays a week). The Maitreya Hall is a three-storey wooden structure built in 1635 that retains an air of antiquity. Inside is an impressive Mireuk-sa Buddha, the Buddha of the Future.

On the left is a museum and a hall with carvings of 500 unique Buddha helpers. Near the entrance, sip soothing tea in the serene, Zen-style atmosphere of Sanjang Dawon (teas W6000). Between 10 and 20 monks live here.

The usual climbing route up Moaksan goes past the temple, up Janggundae and along the ridge up to the peak. The hike is relatively easy and you can be up and down in three hours.

Overlooking the car park on the left is Hwarim Hoegwan (; meals W5000-20,000), a restaurant where you can sit inside or outside under the wisteria. Choose between local black pig, tokkitang (; spicy rabbit soup) or roast ori (; duck).

Geumsan-sa and Moaksan are easily reached by bus from Jeonju. Local bus 79 (W1500, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes) can be picked up along Girin-ro, Jeonjus main street. Dont get on buses that go to the other end of Moaksan park; ask for Geumsan-sa.

DAEDUNSAN PROVINCIAL PARK Yet another of Koreas beautiful parks, Daedunsan (%263 9949; adult/youth/child W1300/850/450; h8am-6pm) offers craggy peaks with spectacular views over the surrounding countryside. Although relatively small, its one of Koreas most scenic mountain areas.

Aside from the superb views, the climb to the summit of Daedunsan (878m) along steep, stony tracks is an adventure in itself, as you cross over a 50m-long cable bridge stretched precariously between two rock pinnacles and then climb up a steep and long steel-cable stairway. Vertigo sufferers are advised to take the alternative route! Otherwise, a five-minute cable-car ride (one way/return W3000/6000) saves you an hour of up-hill hiking.

Daedun-san Tourist Hotel (%263 1260; fax 263 8069; r W65,000; ai) has an oncheon (hot spring bath) and a sauna (W3000), perfect for soak-ing aching hiking muscles. Relax further, playing pool or four-ball in the bar (open 1pm to midnight) or sitting in an armchair with a view.

Many restaurants serve sanchae bibimbap (; rice, egg, meat and mountain vegies) and the usual country-style food.

Daedunsan can be reached by bus from Jeonju (W5000, 70 minutes, six daily) or from Seodaejeon bus terminal in Daejeon (W2500, 40 minutes, six daily).

MAISAN PROVINCIAL PARK This is a must-see park (%433 3313; adult/youth/child W2000/1500/900; hsunrise-sunset). Maisan means Horse Ears Mountain, which refers to two extraordinary rocky peaks as they ap-pear from the access town of Jinan. The east peak, Sutmaisan (Male Maisan), is 678m while

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the west peak, Ammaisan (Female Maisan), is slightly taller at 685m. Both ears are made of conglomerate rock, which is rare in Korea. Only Ammaisan can be scaled. Its a steep half-hour climb, but grinning grandmas make it to the top without any problem.

Tap-sa (Pagoda Temple), at the base of the female ear, has a unique sculptural garden of 80 stone towers or pinnacles that were piled up by a Buddhist mystic, Yi Kapmyong (18601957). Up to 15m in height, they rep-resent religious ideas about the universe and miraculously never seem to crumble, although no cement has been used. The diverse stone towers are an intriguing sight, evoking the atmosphere of a lost world.

Nearby is Unsu-sa, a temple with a Dangun shrine, a centuries-old pear tree and attrac-tive gardens, and you can even bang the big drum.

An easy 1-hour, 1.7km hike with a splen-did view at the top and ever-changing views of Ammaisan starts by Tap-sa and takes you back to the car park at the entrance. In April the cherry trees around the nearby lake burst into blossom.

Frequent buses (W3600, 50 minutes, every 30 minutes) run along the scenic route from Jeonju to the small town of Jinan. From Jinan, buses (W1000, five minutes, every 40 min-utes) run to the park entrance.

DEOGYUSAN NATIONAL PARK & MUJU SKI RESORT , A fabulous mountain resort in the northeast corner of Jeollabuk-do, Deogyusan National Park (%322 3174; http://deogyu.knps.or.kr/eng; adult/youth/child W3200/1200/600; hsunrise-sunset) is a year-round playground offering skiing, hiking, biking and golf.

The park is best known as the home of Muju Ski Resort (%322 9000; www.mujuresort.com). Opened in 1990, Muju is the only Korean ski resort located in a national park, with 30 runs including the highest altitude and longest slope (6.1km) in the country. Snowboarding, sledding, night and mogul skiing and lessons in English are on offer. The ski season runs mid-December to April.

When the snow melts, lace up your hik-ing boots and explore the park on foot. The

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Anguk-sa ..................................................1 A2 Baengnyeon-sa .....................................2 B3 Gondola..................................................................... 3 B3 Jeoksang Sanseong ..............................................4 A1 Muju Ski Resort ...........................5 B3

SLEEPING Tirol Hotel ..........................................6 B3 Tourist Village .............................................7 B2

TRANSPORT Bus Stop ........................................8 A1 Bus Stop ........................................9 B2 Bus Stop ..................................... 10 B2

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tourist village at Gucheon-dong is the start of the parks best hike (1 hours, 6km) that fol-lows the river and valley past 20 beauty spots to a small temple, Baengnyeon-sa (). Fairies are said to slide down rainbows to bathe in the pools. The enchanting trail con-tinues to a strenuous, steep, 1-hour ascent of Hyangjeokbong (1614m). Yew trees, azaleas and alpine flowers adorn the summit.

In the northwest of the park is Jeoksang Sanseong, a fortress rebuilt in the 17th century. Encircled by the 8km wall are the ruins of a Joseon-dynasty archive, a reservoir and Anguk-sa (), a temple built in the 1860s. Buses only run along the main road to Gucheon-dong, so you must get off at the access road and walk (4km) or hitchhike.

Although winter is the high season, a few shops, restaurants, bars and attractions are open year-round, including the gondola (adult/child return W10,000/7000; h10am-4pm) to the peak of Seolcheonbong (1520m). Mountain bikes (adult/child per hr W10,000/8000; h9am-7pm) can be hired to ride round a special track.

Muju is home to the Muju Firefly Festival (http://firefly.or.kr), an environmental awareness event held in mid-June. Taekwondo Park (www.worldtaekwondopia.org/eng/park/park01.asp), a theme park devoted to Koreas national sport, is set to open in 2013.

Sleeping & Eating The resort has top-notch dining, drinking and sleeping options in all price ranges; the best place to stay in the park is Tirol Hotel (; %320 7617; www.mujuresort.com; winter/sum-mer r from W380,000/115,000; ai), a wonderful Austrian-styled chalet. Cheaper minbak ac-commodation (private homes with rooms for rent) is located in the tourist village near the park entrance. For the best deals here, buy a package that includes accommoda-tion, ski and equipment hire, transport and lift tickets.

Getting There & Away The nondescript town of Muju is the gate-way to Deogyusan National Park and Muju Ski Resort. Muju is connected by bus to Daejeon (W6500, one hour, every 40 minutes), Geumsan (W2800, one hour, hourly), Jeonju (W11,000, 1 hours, hourly), Seoul (W13,700, three hours, six daily) and other cities.

From Muju, take the Gucheon-dong bus (W3300, 30 minutes, 10 daily), which drops

you off near the tourist village. Alternatively from Muju, take the Muju Resort Shuttle Bus (free, one hour, six daily, more frequently during ski season).

NAMWON Nicknamed the City of Love, Namwon is famous throughout Korea as the setting of Chunhyang-jeon, a pansori folk tale akin to Romeo and Juliet. The story follows the forbidden courtship and marriage between a young commoner girl named Chunhyang (Spring Fragrance) and a noblemans son, Yi Mongryong. Yi must later save his love from the clutches of an evil politician, and they live happily ever after.

The citys crown jewel is Gwanghallu-won Garden (adult/child W2000/1100; h8am-8pm), one of the most beautiful gardens in southwest Korea and a shrine to the Chunhyang-jeon story.

At the heart of the garden is Gwanghallu Pavilion (Palace of the Moon), originally built in 1419 and the legendary spot where Yi courted his beloved Chunhyang. The pavil-ion is fronted by a lovely reflecting pond with three tiny islands and criss-crossed by the stone Ojak-gyo (Magpie Bridge); it is said that couples who cross the bridge once a year will have a happy marriage.

West of the pavilion, the Chunhyang Memorial Hall visually retells the story through paintings. The Chunyang Shrine contains a portrait of the beautiful heroine; another legend claims singles will find love if they pray here.

Across the road from the park entrance, take the ornate footbridge over the Yocheon River to reach the Namwon Tourist Complex of restaurants, shops, hotels, Namwon Land amusement park, the Chunhyuang Theme Park and Folk Museum (%620 6836; adult/child W3000/2000; h9am-10pm) and the National Centre for Korean Folk Traditional Performing Arts (%620 2331; admission free; h9am-5pm) with its fine collec-tion of musical instruments and regular live performances.

Trains serve Jeonju (W5000, 35 min-utes, 16 daily), Seoul (W20,400 to W30,300; three hours, 40 minutes; 16 daily) and Yeosu (W6700 to W9800, 100 minutes, 17 daily). Buses serve Jeonju (W6000, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes), Gwangju (W4800, one hour, every 30 minutes), Banseon (W4400, one hour, 18 daily) and Seoul (W14,000, four hours, 17 daily).

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NAEJANGSAN NATIONAL PARK The mountainous ridge in this park (%538 7875; http://naejang.knps.or.kr/eng; adult/youth/child W3200/1300/700; hsunrise-sunset) is shaped like an amphitheatre. A spiders web of trails leads up to the ridge, but the fastest way up is by cable car (adult/child one way W4000/2000, return W5500/3000). The hike around the rim is strenuous, but with splendid views on a fine day. The trail is a roller-coaster ride, going up and down six main peaks and numerous small ones before you reach Seoraebong, from where you head back down to the ac-cess road.

There are metal ladders, bridges and rail-ings to help you scramble over the rocky parts. Give yourself four hours to hike around the amphitheatre, with an hour for breaks and a picnic. If you find the hike too difficult, turn right at any time and follow one of the many trails back down to Naejang-sa.

An easy and picturesque 2km walk from Naejang-sa goes through Geumsong valley, which becomes a steep ravine before leading to a cave, a natural rock arch and a waterfall.

A tourist village clusters around the en-trance, but its not usually busy except in October. Camping (small/large tent W3000/6000) is available before the tourist village. A shuttle bus (W1000; 9am to 6pm) runs between the ticket office and the cable-car terminal, saving a 2km, 20-minute walk.

The tourist information centre (%537 1330) has free internet access. Across the road is a bicycle

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VillageTourist

Jeonmangdae

(406m)Wolryeongbong

(696m)Janggunbong

(675m)Yeonjabong

(763m)Sinseonbong

(717m)Gachibong

(622m)Seoraebong

(670m)Yeonjibong

(610m)Bulchulbong

(650m)Manghaebong

Lake

ValleyGeumsong

ValleyWonjeok

Yonggul

Wonjeogam Konaejangam

SpringSinseon

PokpoGeumseon

Spring

Spring

SpringSeorae

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INFORMATION Tourist Information Centre ........................1 D2

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bicycle Hire .................................................2 D2 Cable Car................................................................................... 3 C2 Naejang-sa ................................................................ 4 B2 Park Entrance ......................................................5 D2

SLEEPING Camping ....................................................................6 D1

EATINGRestaurants ...............................................................7 D2

TRANSPORTBus Stop ...........................................................8 D2 Shuttle Bus Stop ...................................9 D2

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hire stall (%011-9449 4383; per hr W3000; h9am-6pm). Cycle up to the temple or around the nearby farms and villages.

Buses (W3000, one hour, every 15 minutes) run from Jeonju to Jeongeup. From just out-side the bus terminal on the left, local bus 171 (W1000, 30 minutes, every 20 minutes) runs to Naejangsan.

GOCHANG Perched on a hill overlooking the small village of Gochang, Moyang Fortress (, %560 2710; admission W1000; h9am-7pm Mar-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Feb) is an impressive structure built in 1453 during the Joseon dynasty. The ivy-covered, 1.6km-long fortress wall with three gates sur-rounds a complex of reconstructed buildings including a prison and pavilion. A local legend says if a woman walks three times around the wall with a stone on her head in a leap year, she will never become ill and will enter para-dise. To the right of the fortress is the Pansori Museum (%560 2761; adult/youth/child W800/500/free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun), with memorabilia on this unique solo opera musical form. The hills sur-rounding Gochang are filled with thousands of dolmen, prehistoric tombs from the Bronze and Iron Ages.

Buses serve Gochang from Jeonju (W5400, 80 minutes, every 30 minutes) and Gwanju (W4300, one hour, every 30 minutes).

SEONUNSAN PROVINCIAL PARK This pretty park (%563 3450; adult/youth/child W2500/1800/1300; hsunrise-sunset) has always been popular with monks and poets alike. A 20-minute walk along a rocky, tree-lined river brings you to Seonun-sa. Just behind the temple is a 500-year-old camellia forest that flowers around the end of April, although a few blooms linger into summer.

Another 35 minutes further on is Dosol-am hermitage and just beyond is a giant Buddha rock carving dating to the Goryeo dynasty; the amazing image is carved into the cliff face and is 13m high. Despite centuries of erosion the Buddha is still an impressive sight, a testament to the faith of ancient times. On the right is a very narrow grotto, and next to it stairs lead up to a tiny shrine and a great view. From the Buddha, you can climb Nakjodae and carry on to Gaeippalsan and Seonunsan, with views of the West Sea, before heading back down to Seonun-sa.

The small tourist village near the park en-trance has a handful of lodgings, restaurants and shops. The clean but dated Seonunsan Tourist Hotel (; %561 3377; r W60,000-100,000) has Western and ondol-style rooms. The basic Seonunsan Youth Hostel (; %561 3333; fax 561 3448; r W60,000) is cheaper but does fill up fast on weekends.

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Nakjodae

(345m)Gaeippalsan

(336m)Seonunsan

(443m)Gyeongsusan

(298m)Guhwangbong

(265m)Ingyeongbong

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Garden ............................................................................ 1 B3 Giant Buddha Rock Carving ........................... 2 A3 Seonun-sa ................................................................. 3 B2 Ticket Office .............................................................. 4 B2

SLEEPING Seonunsan Tourist Hotel GG........................................................... (see 5)

Seonunsan Youth Hostel .............. 5 B2

EATINGFood Stalls .................................................. 6 B2 Restaurants ............................................................... 7 B2

TRANSPORTBus Stop ........................................................... 8 B2

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Buses (W4000, 1 hours, every 30 min-utes) run from Jeonju to Gochang, from where buses (W2000, 20 minutes, hourly) run to Seonunsan.

BYEONSAN BANDO NATIONAL PARK This coastal park (%582 7808; http://byeonsan.knps.or.kr/eng; adult/youth/child W3200/1300/700; hsunrise-sunset) contains the large temple of Naeso-sa (), originally built in 633 and last renovated in the 19th century. It certainly looks old, with lots of unpainted wood. Take a close look at the main hall, especially the lattice doors, the painting behind the Buddha statues, and the intricately carved and painted ceiling with musical instruments, flowers and dragons among the motifs.

Hike up the unpaved road to Cheongnyeonam (; 20 minutes) for sea views; another 15 minutes brings you to the ridge where you turn left for Gwaneumbong. From the peak follow the path, which goes up and down and over rocks for an hour until you reach Jikso Pokpo (), a 30m-high waterfall with a large pool. Another pretty

spot is Seonyeotang (, Angel Pool). From there walk along the unpaved access road past the ruins of Silsang-sa (), destroyed during the Korean War. You may need to hitch a lift as buses are infre-quent. For a more challenging hike head up Nakjodae, which is famous for its sunset views.

Beaches along the coast attract crowds in summer. Byeonsan Beach is a wide beach of fine sand, clear water and backed by pine trees. Further south, Gyeokpo Beach has dramatic stratified cliffs and caves as well as seafood restaurants. The beach is safe for swimming but the sea disappears at low tide. Gyeokpo is also the starting point for ferries to the is-land of Wi-do, which has a sandy beach; every house in the little fishing village of Jinli is a minbak-cum-restaurant.

Only one direct bus (W6000, two hours) runs from Jeonju to Naeso-sa. Otherwise take a bus from Jeonju to Buan (W4000, one hour, five daily) and then a local bus to Naeso-sa (W2000, one hour, every 30 minutes). Buses (W6400, two hours, hourly) also run from Jeonju to Gyeokpo.

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Unsan-ri

Seoninbong

(486m)Sinseonbong

(492m)Mangpodae

(448m)Nakjodae

Gwaneumbong

(459m)Ssangseonbong

Buanho

ValleyBongnae

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Cheongnyeonam ..............1 D2 Jikso Pokpo .................... 2 C2 Naeso-sa ...............................3 D3 Seonyeotang ...................... 4 C2 Silsang-sa Ruins ............ 5 C1

TRANSPORT Bus Stop .....................6 D3 Bus Stop ..................... 7 C1

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Ferries (%581 0023) go from Gyeokpo to Wi-do (W6500 one way, 40 minutes, three daily September to June, six daily July and August).

SEONYU-DO A 43km ferry trip from the industrial port city of Gunsan brings you to the relaxing tropical island of Seonyu-do, situated amid 60 mostly uninhabited small islands. When the tide is in and the sun is out, the views from here are unbelievably beautiful. These days there are more bicycle-hire stalls than fishing boats; you can hire bicycles (W3000 per hour) or a quad bike (W20,000 per hour) to pedal or zip around the laid-back fish-ing villages on Seonyu-do and the three islands that are linked to it by bridges. Six-person bungbungka (auto rickshaws; per hour W30,000) take pensioner parties on fun tours.

The main attraction is the 1.6km beach, a 10-minute walk from the ferry pier, on a spit of soft, golden sand with great island views on both sides. At the far end the adventurous should climb up rocky Mangjubong. Take the right turn towards Saeteo village and on your left are tracks leading through the grass up to some ropes that are fixed to the rock, which you can use to haul yourself up to a wooded gully. The view from the top is a wonderful panorama of islands.

Youll find plenty of inexpensive restaurants and minbak in the main fishing village, a 10-minute walk from the jetty near the beach.

Buses (W4500, one hour, every 15 minutes) leave from Jeonju for Gunsan. Ferries (adult/child one way W12,800/6400, 1 hours, five daily) leave from the new Yeonan Yeogaek (Gunsan Coastal Ferry Terminal; ; %467 6000), a 15-minute, W7500 taxi ride from Gunsan bus terminal.

317 Lonely Planet

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Unknown History National & Provincial Parks Getting There & Around

JEONJU Information Sights & Activities Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating & Drinking Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around

GEUMSAN-SA & MOAKSAN PROVINCIAL PARK DAEDUNSAN PROVINCIAL PARK MAISAN PROVINCIAL PARK DEOGYUSAN NATIONAL PARK & MUJU SKI RESORT Sleeping & Eating Getting There & Away

NAMWON NAEJANGSAN NATIONAL PARK GOCHANG SEONUNSAN PROVINCIAL PARK BYEONSAN BANDO NATIONAL PARK SEONYU-DO