KNITTING NEEDLES

17Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas Measurements

MEASUREMENTS

US

0

1

2

N/A

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

10.5

N/A

N/A

11

13

15

17

19

50

Metric

2.00 mm

2.25 mm

2.75 mm

3.00 mm

3.25 mm

3.50 mm

3.75 mm

4.00 mm

4.50 mm

5.00 mm

5.50 mm

6.00 mm

6.50 mm

7.00 mm

7.50 mm

8.00 mm

9.00 mm

10.0 mm

11.0 mm

19.0 mm

25.0 mm

UK

14

13

12

11

10

N/A

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

0

00

000

N/A

N/A

N/A

Knitting Needle Conversion TableIf you get a pattern with a needle size number different from your needles, don’t worry; you can still make it. For example, instead of seeing a size 6 needle, you might see 4mm or even British size 8 (British non-metric sizes are usually found on vintage patterns; metric measurements are now standard in the United Kingdom).

To the right you'll find a table that lists the most common sizes of knitting needles in US, UK and metric measurements.

18Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas Measurements

MEASUREMENTSChoosing Sock SizeThe key measurement for sock sizing is the ankle circumference. For women, this is usually about 8 inches, for men about 10 inches. From this key measurement, subtract 1 inch when knitting for adults and half an inch when knitting for kids. This assumes that you are knitting with typical sock yarn, and not stranded colorwork. If you are knitting with a much thicker yarn, do not subtract as much from the ankle mea-surement. If you're knitting in colorwork, which is less stretchy than single color knitting, you'll need your sock to be a little bigger.

Get the gauge of the yarn you want to use. This is, of course, best measured from an actual gauge swatch -- even better if done in the round rather than flat since that's how the sock will be knit. When using a yarn not originally meant for socks, use needles a size or two smaller than the ball band calls for. Socks are knitted at a tighter gauge than other garments, to maximize wear. You'll find that they feel better on your feet that way, too.

The number of stitches for the leg and foot circumfer-ence is the magic number, X. Once you've got that, you can create an entire pattern. X is the stitch gauge (per inch) multiplied by the ankle circumference, minus 1 inch (for lace or ribbing) or half an inch (for colorwork), as the case may be.

For example: If your yarn provides a gauge of 30 sts over 4 inches, divide by 4 to get the number of stitches to the inch (7.5 sts). Then multiply this number by the ankle circumference less 1 inch. So for someone with an 8" ankle: 7.5 x 7=52 sts.

The number of stitches you increase to after the toe will also be determined somewhat by the ribbing you want to do. K1 p1 rib requires an even number of stitches; k2 p2 rib requires that the number ofstitches be divisible by 4.

When you switch to the leg, you can increase a few stitches to fit the repeat of the pattern you will use on the leg if this is different than what you've used on the foot.

19Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas Measurements

MEASUREMENTSPersonal Worksheet

Name

Date

Crew Sock Measurements

01 Foot Circumference:

{ measure at widest point }

02 Ankle Circumference:

03 Foot Length:

04 Sock Length:

{ while standing, measure from heel bottom to desired sock length }

Knee Sock Measurements

01 Foot Circumference:

{ measure at widest point }

02 Ankle Circumference:

03 Foot Length:

04 Sock Length:

{ while standing, measure from heel bottom to desired sock length }

05 Calf Circumference:

{ measure at widest point }

Additional Notes

Tip: If working from a pattern, choose the closest size. If it's stretchy like lace or ribbing, choose the next smaller size. If it's not stretchy, like colorwork, choose the next larger size.

Gauge ___ sts per inch x Circumference ___ inches = ___ sts needed for your size

01

02 02

03 03

05

01

CREW SOCK KNEE SOCK

04

04

20Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas Tips & Resources

TIPS & RESOURCESYarn Over (YO)A yarn over creates a small hole in your knitting and adds one stitch.

Bring the yarn between the needles to the front, and then over the needle again to the back of the work to begin the next knit stitch.

On the next round, work the yarn over as a regular knit or purl stitch, as indicated on the chart.

Attention, English-Style Knitters!All yarn overs are essentially the same: you are wrapping the yarn around the needle to create a hole and add a new stitch. But English knitters must pay more attention to the position of the yarn, particularly when the yarn over falls before or after a purl stitch. Below you’ll find some handy tips to assist you:

Stitch before is K, stitch after is K. Bring yarn from back of knitting to front between needles, then wrap yarn over the top of the right needle to the back again.

Stitch before is K, stitch after is P. Bring yarn to front of work between needles, then wrap yarn completely around the right needle to the front of work again.

Stitch before is P, stitch after is K. Bring yarn from front to back over the right needle.

Stitch before is P, stitch after is P. Bring yarn from front to back over right needle, then wrap yarn under the right needle to the front again.

TIPS TO REMEMBER

1

2

3

4

21Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Circular KnittingKnitting in the round is quite easy, and many people love it so much they prefer it to knitting back and forth. It eliminates the need to sew seams, which can be an added bonus if you don't like finishing. In addition, the right side of the knitting is always visible, making it easier to follow the charts.

Getting started with knitting in the round is the only new skill you need to learn. You have to get the stitches onto the needles and join them into a circle without twisting them.

When working on 2 circular needles, cast on the indi-cated number of stitches onto one needle. Place the needle on a flat surface. Divide your stitches evenly onto two circular needles so the first needle holds the first half of the round and the second needle holds the second half of the round.

To knit a round, using the first needle only, knit the first half of the round. Turn the work around so the second half of the round is facing you. Switch to the second needle to knit the second half of the round. Each set of stitches always stays on the same needle.

Knitting with double-pointed needles (dpns) is not very different, but it is slightly cumbersome until you get used to it. In fact, switching needles as you progress around becomes part of the rhythm of knitting.

When working on dpns, cast on then divide the stitches evenly onto 3 or 4 needles. Do this by just slipping the stitches from one needle to another. You can put your work on 3 needles and knit with the fourth (my preference and common in the United States) or you can put your work on 4 needles and knit with the fifth (common in Europe). If you've never used double-pointed needles before, try both setups to see which is most comfortable for you.

Place the needles on a flat surface and make sure all of the stitches are lined up on the inside of the triangle or square formed by the needles. With the tail and the working yarn on the right needle, pick up the needles carefully, and knit the first couple of stitches. This joins the knitting into a circle (the needles form a triangle or square, but the knitting will be a circular tube).

Tips & Resources

TIPS & RESOURCES

If you are new to circular knitting, I suggest you try a small test project on circular needles first.

A hat is a good choice, because you have to switch to double pointed needles (dpns) when you knit the crown. Because you already have the rest of the hat knitted, switching from circular to double-pointeds is easy, and you only have to knit a few rows on the multiple needles.

When you are ready to switch, pick up one dpn and knit ¼ to 1⁄3 of the stitches. Pick up another dpn and knit the second batch. Continue until all of the stitches have been knitted onto 3 or 4 dpns and the round is complete.

To start the next round, take another empty dpn and knit all of the stitches off of the first needle. The first needle is now empty. Use this needle to knit the stitches off of the second needle. Keep going in this manner.

TIPS TO REMEMBER

12

3

4

22Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas Tips & Resources

TIPS & RESOURCESShort RowsA short row is simply a row that has fewer stitches than the full piece of knitting. Turning in the middle of the row leaves a small hole. The hole can be elimi-nated by wrapping the stitch at the turning point. When instructions tell you to “wrap-and-turn”:

01 Work to the turning point.

02 Wrap: Slip the next stitch onto the right needle, then bring the yarn to the front and slip the same stitch back to the left needle.

03 Turn the work and knit or purl the next stitch. This wrap-and-turn technique creates a float on the right side of the work.

When you are ready to reverse the heel shape, you will work back over the wrapped stitch to avoid creating a hole.

04 Pick up the horizontal float and put it on the left needle.

05 Purl or knit the two stitches together. Wrap and turn the next stitch and turn.

On the next complete row, you will work back over the wrapped stitch. Knit or purl the wrap together with the corresponding stitch on the left hand needle to close up the holes created by the short row shaping. Sometimes on a sock heel, you will wrap the same stitch twice when making a short-row heel, and you will have two wraps to pick up at once.

23Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas Tips & Resources

TIPS & RESOURCESKitchener Stitch (a.k.a. Grafting)Invisible grafting is called Kitchener stitch. For Kitchener stitch, you must have the same number of stitches in each group to be joined together. Break off the working yarn, leaving a strand about 3-4 times the length of the join. Thread this working strand into a tapestry needle with a blunt point.

01 Setup: Hold the two pieces together on the two knitting needles, wrong sides together, positioned so the working strand comes from the right hand stitch on the front needle. Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit, but don’t take the stitch off its needle.

02 Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front knitting needle as if to purl, and again don’t take the stitch off the needle.

03 Back needle: Take the tapestry needle to the back needle and insert it in the first stitch as if to purl. Remove that stitch from its needle.

04 Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch as if to knit but do not remove it.

05 Front needle: Take the tapestry needle to the front needle and insert it in the first stitch as if to knit. Remove that stitch from its needle.

06 Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch as if to purl but do not remove it.

Repeat steps 02 and 03 until one stitch remains on each knitting needle. Follow the established pattern as well as possible with these two stitches. One will be removed from its needle after the second pass of the tapestry needle. There is no second stitch before removing. The final stitch is only entered once with the tapestry needle. Fasten off.

24Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas Index

INDEX Introduction> Why knit socks?> Materials and tools for knitting socks> Socks made in this lesson> Features included with this lessons

Materials and Charts> Sock yarn> Double pointed needles> Circular needles> Other supplies needed> Colorwork charts> Lace charts

Anatomy of a Sock> Parts of a sock> What you will learn> Details of the parts of the sock

Making Socks that Fit> Customizing your socks> Different socks — same size> Taking measurements for socks> The dreaded gauge> Making adjustments to a colorwork pattern> Making adjustments to a lace pattern> Customizing knee socks> Matching measurements and gauge > Calf shaping in a knee sock

Knitting the Toes > Practicing the swirl style toe> Figure 8 cast on> Knitting the swirl toe> Casting on the Bosnian sock> Starting the Bosnian toe> Long tail cast on> Increasing stitches

Best Foot Forward > Setting up the lace pattern > Inserting a lifeline> Fixing mistakes in your knitting> Set up color patterns> Correcting stitches in wrong color

Heel Openings > Heel opening in lace sock> Starting the leg of the sock> Summary of the heel opening> Heel opening in colorwork sock> Locating your place in a colorwork pattern> Continuing the colorwork pattern

Leg Work > Working on the leg> Increasing for the calf of the sock> Increase with yarn over method> Diagonal lace> Knitting the cuffs

The Afterthought Heel > Pick up the stitches for the heel> Shaping the heel> The Kitchener stitch> Afterthought heel for the colorwork socks> Arranging the stitches on the needles

Finishing the Socks > Stretchy bind-off> Binding off in pattern> Weaving in the ends> Blocking socks> Blocking knee socks

Bonus: Knitting Socks on Circular Needles > The Bosnian toe> Relaxing a circular needle cable> Adding the second needle

Bonus: The Short Row Heel> Short row overview> Start knitting the heel> Reversing the short row heel> Completing the heel> Comparing the heels

25Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas Index

CREDITSInstructor: Donna Druchunas

Producer: Lynne Ida

Assistant Producer: Maria Sandhei

Videographer: Justin Lang

Hair and Makeup: Danica Jardien

Video Editor: Ari Feldman

Motion Graphics: Dave Drage

Copy Editor: Laurie Pribbeno

Graphic Designer: Robin H. Ridley

Tech Editor: Charlotte Quiggle

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