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7 

makes woolen Khadi apparel more insulative

as compared to mill-made woolen apparels.

Although having high insulative property,

Khadi made up of Indian wool fiber has some

drawbacks too. It is bulky, heavy in weight

and harsh to the skin so it makes the wearer

uncomfortable. Secondly, shrinkage is also a

drawback in woolen Khadi. Due to these

demerits Khadi fabrics made of Indian wool

are not in demand as much as they should be.

To meet the requirement of apparels, fine

quality Merino wool is imported from

Australia and New Zealand and isused in

khadi sector. This increases cost of the

product (Vision, 2050). Bharat Merino wool

is finer, softer and longer compared to other

varieties of wool produced in India

(Ammayappan, 2007). A need was felt by

investigator to explore the possibility of

utilization of Bharat Merino wool in blends

with synthetic fiber in khadi sector for

apparels.

An attempt was made to blend acrylic fiber

with Indian wool, as it possesses wool like

characteristics having thermal insulative

property (Miraftab, 2000). It was expected

that addition of acrylic fiber will not affect

warmth property of wool and will also

decrease cost of the product. Wool/acrylic

apparels may fulfill the need for durable,

comfortable, easily dyeable, shrink resistant,

cost effective woolens. An endeavor was

made to develop apparels for cool climate

and to evaluate their acceptability.

Materials and Methods

Bharat merino wool and acrylic fibre have

been used for the study. Bharat merino wool

was purchased from CSWRI, Avikanagar,

Rajasthan. Acrylic in cut staple form was

purchased from Ludhiana, Punjab.

Preparation of samples

Khadi spinning system was used to prepare

blended as well as pure yarns. Blending was

done in Mahadev woolen mills, Sunder

Nagar, Himachal Pradesh. Bharat merino

wool was blended with acrylic fiber in four

ratios, viz. 20A:80BM, 33A:67BM,

52A:48BM, 67A:33BM. 100% Bharat

Merino yarn was also prepared for base

reference. Pure acrylic yarn could not be

prepared due to hand spinning system used.

Hand spinning on Amber Charkha was done

to prepare two ply yarns. Weaving of fabric

samples of 80 cm width in twill weave was

done on handloom at Khadi Aashram,

Chandvaji, Jaipur. Various properties of fiber,

yarn and fabrics were determined to find out

most suitable ratio for the end use product

development.

Product development

For product development, BM80: A20 was

selected as it proved to be most suitable ratio

in terms of appearance, texture, softness and

mechanical properties. Six prototypes for

winter wear; four jackets and two shawls

were developed. The age group was selected

as adult ladies and gents and size was chosen

as medium. Plate 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 show the

apparels developed from Bharat

Merino/acrylic blend fabric.

Cost calculation

Approximate cost of yarn and fabric

manufacturing including blending, carding,

hand-spinning, handloom weaving was

calculated. Calculation was done with the

help of Owner/Manager, Mahadev woolen

mills, Sunder Nagar, Himachal Pradesh and

Khadi Ashram, Chandvaji, Jaipur.

Sharma & Pant/VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/6 - 11

8 

Acceptability evaluation of developed

products

Overall acceptability of developed products

was assessed in terms of aesthetic appeal,

cost, acceptability to wear, fashion-rightness.

Hundred respondents were chosen from

Department of Home Science and Design

Institute, Banasthali Vidyapith. These

included P.G. students and faculty members.

Prototypes were draped on dummy for proper

and easy evaluation by respondents. Five

point rating scale was used for visual

assessment as given below. Rank 5 is

considered as the highest and 1 as lowest

score. Data was converted into percentage for

each rating so that degree of preference

might be obtained.

Rating scale for aesthetic appeal and fashion rightness 5 4 3 2 1

Excellent Good Average Below

average Poor

Rating scale for acceptability to wear and cost

5 4 3 2 1

Highly

acceptable

Moderately

acceptable

Somewhat

Acceptable

Least

acceptable

Not

acceptable

Result and Discussion

Cost of 80:20 BM/Acrylic blended Khadi

fabric

Fibre Price Rs/kg

Bharat merino 250/-

Acrylic 140/-

Table 1: Raw material cost

Cost of BM80: A20 fabrics was calculated

and compared with pure Bharat Merino

fabric and pure Australian Merino fabric.

Cost was calculated by adding raw material

cost + yarn manufacturing cost + weaving

charges. It is given in Table 1 and 2.

Table 1 and Table 2 show that BM80: A20

yarn and fabric were found more economical

as compared to BM100 and pure Australian

Merino yarn and fabrics.

Fiber ratio

Cost of yarn/kg

Raw material cost+

labour cost

Cost of fabric per mt

Yarn cost+ labour cost

(weaving charges)

BM80: A20 Rs532 Rs137/mt

BM100 Rs570 Rs142/mt

AM100 Rs1525 Rs261/mt

Table 2: Comparison of cost of yarn and fabric

among BM80:A20, 100% Bharat

merino (BM), 100% Australian merino

(AM)

Result of acceptability evaluation of

developed Products

Acceptability is operationalized as mental

readiness to adopt developed prototypes of

garments. Liking or disliking for any product

is a subjective characteristic and its

evaluation is affected by personal preferences

and psychological experience. However,

assessment of acceptability is important in

context of mass production of the product.

BM80:A20 fabric was selected to construct

prototypes. Two prototypes of shawls and

four prototypes of jackets were developed.

Those were then shown to the respondents

and evaluated in terms of aesthetic appeal,

fabric cost, willingness to purchase and

fashion-rightness. Five point rating scale was

used for rating. Data was converted into

percentage form for each rating so that

degree of preference might be obtained.

Results are presented in Figure 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Figure

ready t

respons

respons

Fig. 2:

Figure

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Fig. 3: R

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Rating of proto

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Rating of protot

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Sharma & Pant/VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/6 - 11

10 

acrylic fiber was blended with wool fiber.

The outcome of the study suggests that

wool/acrylic blend apparels can be developed

in khadi sector for winter wear. 20-30 %

Acrylic fiber can be used to impart property

benefit to blend.

Sharma & Pant/VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/6 - 11

11 

References

Miraftab, M. (2000): Technical fibers. In A R

Horrocks and S. C Anand (Eds).

Handbok of technical textile (pp. 28),

England: Woodhead publishing

limited.

Vision 2050 (2015): Vision 2050 document.

Central Wool and Sheep Research

Institute, Avikanagar, Indian council

of Agricultural Research

Ammayappan, L. (2007): Study on

improvement in aesthetic properties

of woolen products by different

chemical finishes (doctoral thesis).

Anna University, India.