Justin Bryce

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T A B L E OF C O N T E N T S

Normal or Neurotic (introduction)________________________________________4

Kibbles and Bits and Bits (nutrition and general health)______________________5 What does my dog need from food?

Should I feed him dry food, canned food, or a mixture?

Why does he have to eat so quickly?

Why does he eat grass?

Do I really need that $40 bag of dog food my vet keeps trying to give me?

I’m a vegetarian/vegan and want my dog to be one as well. How can I do this?

Can I cook for my dog?

Can I give my dog vitamins or nutritional supplements?

My dog just ate the chocolate bunny out of my Easter basket. Is that bad for him?

Oh, someone stop him! That’s just disgusting! No, please, seriously, why is my dog eating his own/his

sibling’s/the cat’s feces and how do I make him just stop?!

My cat, Mr. Meowington, shares his food with my dog. That’s okay, right?

How do I know if my dog is obese and what can I do to help him lose weight?

The Hip Bone’s Connected to the… (skeletal health and disorders)____________16 What makes up bones?

What do joints do?

How strong are my dog’s bones?

What if my dog breaks a bone? Will she get a cast we can all sign with little paw prints?

How can I help keep my pup from developing problems with her bones and joints?

Okay, that’s great, but what about the simpler problems like spraining an ankle or dislocating a joint?

Hey, Man, Gimme Some Skin! (skin health and disorders)___________________21 Why does my dog roll in the dirt all the time? It drives me nuts that I have to keep giving him baths.

What about those little feet beards my dog has? You know, the hair between the pads on the bottom of

his feet?

What’s the correct way to clean my dog’s ears?

He has some weird thing in his ear. What is it?

What kinds of things can cause a problem with my dog’s skin?

What’s the right way to cut my dog’s toenails?

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My dog is going bald! I thought it was bad enough that my husband was losing his hair, but now my

little baby is losing all of his fur! What’s going on?

My dog doesn’t look like my husband… he looks like my teenager! What’s up with the zit minefield on

his chin?

So Then the Dentist Says to the Alligator… (dental care)_____________________27 How many teeth does my dog have?

How am I supposed to know if something is wrong with my dog’s teeth? She can’t talk, you know.

Okay, fine, I’ll do it. How do I brush her teeth?

Can my dog get cavities?

How do dogs break their teeth and what can I do to stop it from happening?

What else can happen to my dog’s teeth, mouth, or throat, and what can I do about it?

Don’t Let the Bed Bugs Bite! (parasites)___________________________________31 I can handle ticks and mosquitoes, but what am I supposed to do about fleas? Every time I think I’m rid

of them, they come back! How are they getting on my dog and what can I do about them?

Okay, smarty, what about ticks?

And lice? Are they the same as in humans?

What about mosquitoes? They’re annoying, but are they really something I should worry about?

My dog has a bunch of dark wax in her ears. Should I be worried?

Okay, that’s great, but I can see all of those things for myself. What about the bugs that might be inside

my dog?

Love is in the Air… and so are Germs____________________________________37 What are some of the germs and viruses that can cause damage to my dog’s health?

How can I keep my dog from ingesting or contracting any of these bugs?

Okay, so say she gets a virus. What happens then?

Are You Sure He Doesn’t Have the Plague?________________________________44 My dog has been throwing up constantly, but she doesn’t act sick after she’s done. What’s wrong with

her?

My dog has been lying around for days and it seems like she may have a fever. What’s wrong?

My vet says my dog has meningitis. What does that mean?

Can dogs get epilepsy?

Okay, what about diabetes? What, they give themselves little insulin shots every day?

What happens when my dog gets an ulcer?

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You keep talking about bloat and how it’s such a problem in big dogs. I have a Mastiff – what the heck

is bloat and why should I be worried about it?

What kinds of problems can my dog have with her eyes?

The C-Word (cancer)__________________________________________________54 How can I keep my dog from getting cancer?

How does cancer develop?

Can I tell if my dog has cancer?

How will my vet treat my dog for cancer?

What are some of the different kinds of cancer?

Chicken Soup for the Poochy Soul________________________________________60 My dog seems a little more out of it than usual, but he’s still pretty active and seems to be generally

fine. I should get him to the vet right away, shouldn’t I? I mean, there has to be something wrong.

My vet wants me to give my dog medicine every day. How am I supposed to get him to take it?

My dog just went through surgery. What can I expect while he’s getting better?

PUPPIES?!?! I LOVE PUPPIES!________________________________________65 How should I choose a puppy?

What should my puppy eat?

He ate my $10,000 sofa! What am I supposed to do with this dog?

Okay, Einstein, how am I supposed to crate train a puppy? He just screams every time I put him in

there.

You said you were going to talk about toys. What about them?

So what about housetraining? I’ve been trying for weeks, but it doesn’t seem to be getting through.

Back When I Was a Pup…______________________________________________74 So he’s got a few gray hairs! Don’t we all? What’s the big deal?

What can I do? I’m not Father Time.

Is there anything special I should do around the house to help him?

This is getting really hard. He keeps peeing everywhere. What am I supposed to do?

What about his food? Can he eat the same stuff he always has?

That Doghouse in the Sky_______________________________________________80 How long will my dog live?

My dog is really sick. What options do I have besides euthanasia?

How am I supposed to decide whether or not to euthanize my dog?

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What can I do to make it easier on my dog and my family?

What happens during euthanization? Does it hurt?

I have another dog. Will he notice that our other dog is gone?

ER: Doggie Style (first aid and emergencies)_______________________________86 What should I keep in a good first aid kit?

Dehydration

Choking

Severe bleeding

Dislocated joints

Fractured limbs

Poisoning

Spider and snake bites

Shock

Conclusion___________________________________________________________90

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Normal or Neurotic – We Just Love Our Dogs! If you’re the average dog owner, your dog is much less a pet and far more a member of your family.

You delight in his silly little expressions, love taking her to the park every weekend, and snuggle with

him for naps. If you’re one of the more neurotic dog owners, you take her for manicures, dress him in

sweaters and pants, drop her off for days at the doggie day spa, and spend more on his bed than on your

own. Sure, she pulled all of the toilet paper off the roll last week just to see what happened, he

demolishes your furniture once in a while, and sometimes you just don’t know why she does of the

things she does, but he or she is still your baby. Bad moods pass and moments of mischievous behavior

are quickly eclipsed by those big, wide, brown eyes staring up at you adoringly.

But what if something happened to your precious pooch? Would you know what to do? Could you help

her recover from shock? Do you know the warning signs of the more major diseases and disorders?

Without seeming too dramatic, that knowledge can mean the difference between life and death for your

pup. If you don’t get your poochie to a veterinarian soon enough, some diseases can be debilitating or

even fatal.

But you’ve tried reading those other reference books and they were all “blah blah blah” boredom,

right? This one’s different. It’s not a complete encyclopedia of canine anatomy and biology and doesn’t

read like one, so you can make it through the whole book rather than letting it sit on the shelf until you

run into an emergency. And really, do you want to be flipping through the index of a reference book

when your dog is choking?

You won’t find exotic and uncommon diseases here, but you will find conditions and illnesses that crop

up in canines on a regular basis. With fun facts and quick tips, this is one manual you can read all the

way through without waking up to a drool-stained keyboard thirty minutes after beginning. Phrased as

questions and answers rather than a lecture, you should be able to find the solutions to most of the basic

health dilemmas you encounter with your dog. And for emergencies, flip directly to the last chapter to

find information about choking, shock, bleeding, and other urgent problems.

So read on, enjoy, and keep that precious pup happy and healthy!

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Kibbles and Bits and Bits

don’t let your precious pooch become a chunky monkey

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Sure, it’s easy enough to run to Target once every few weeks, pick up that giant bag of food, and pour a

scoop or two into your buddy’s dish, but is it really the best thing for him? Dogs’ diets can be as

complex as ours, and it’s important to hit all of the vital nutritional bases. Lack of the proper vitamins

and nutrients can lead to upset stomachs, skin problems, brittle bones, obesity, and even – in the worst

cases – death. Proper pup nutrition is the building block of his overall health. Without the right

nutrition and exercise, his defenses against disease and disorders are weakened. Educate yourself about

the ABCs of poochie health by reading on!

What does my dog need from food?

As you most likely learned in primary school, dogs are carnivores. After centuries of domestication,

dogs still enjoy living out the illusion that they are the wolves from whom they were naturally selected.

They hunt prey (unfortunately for Kitty), love their bacon and sausage treats, and love the solid crunch

of chewing bones or other hard toys. Yet a diet of meat alone is not ideal for your dog. While meat

provides most of the crucial nutritional elements to help provide energy and enhance bone growth like

protein, fat, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals, your pooch’s diet should also include some amount of

fiber to help his body digest his food.

Just as in your own body, an overdose or deficiency of any given nutrient,

vitamin, or mineral can cause reactions or illness in your dog. We’ll discuss

the ins and outs of vitamin supplements later in the chapter, but you should be

generally aware of what amount of each

nutrient is ideal for your dog and select his

food accordingly. Decent guidelines for

nutrition are the percentages above. Check the

sides and back of your dry food bag and you

should be able to find the nutritional content

fairly easily. If not, give the manufacturer a

call and ask them to provide you with the

information. If your dog is a sucker for moist

food, you’ll find an adjustable formula later in

the section.

Protein: 20% Fat: 30% Carbohydrate: 50%

The right dog food is one of the first defenses your dog has against illness.

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Should I feed him dry food, canned food, or a mixture?

Walk down the pet aisle in the grocery or pet store and you’ll be able to

tell instantly what type of food is the favorite among pups. Commercial

dry food is cost-effective, easy to measure, comes in a wide variety of

flavors and types, and, as your dog would tell you if he could, feels nice

on his teeth and gums and makes fun noises when he bites down. It works well for millions of dogs.

Canned food, on the other hand, is vacuum sealed and therefore doesn’t contain any preservatives.

Some dogs love the meatier taste and consistency, which is closer to what they would enjoy in the wild.

Canned foods often contain the same amount of nutrition as dry food, but they don’t have the same

dental benefits as dry food, they can be more expensive, and serving them requires more than just a

scoop.

Which is right for your buddy? That’s up to the two of you. If you prefer the convenience of dry food

and have found a brand that meets the nutritional requirements and satisfies your dog, stick with it. Use

the same criteria when selecting a canned food, and when checking the label for nutritional percentages

be certain to adjust for the moisture. The percentages listed above apply to dry food, which means we

need to figure out the dry food content of a canned food, which is largely made up of nutrient-less

water. If the label lists the can’s moisture content at 75%, this means that 25% of the food inside is dry.

Now whip out that calculator and try the following formula:

Nutrient percentage ÷ dry food percentage X 100

The result is the actual nutritional content of that nutrient,

whether protein, fat, or carbohydrates. Okay, now put away

that calculator. You look nerdy and people are starting to

stare.

Indecisive? Many people feed their dogs a combination of both dry and moist food for the best (and

worst) of both worlds. Again, this decision is completely up to you and your dog, unless your

veterinarian has instructed you otherwise. That being said, stick with your decision. Dogs aren’t as

interested in variety as their owners, and their bodies aren’t made for it. Switching your dog’s food too

often can end up making him sick or even cause him to just lose interest completely in whatever you

Did you know? Americans spend more annually on dog food than on baby food. Of course, when’s the last time you saw a baby tear into and eat a 20-pound bag of food?

Today’s dogs sometimes eat better than their owners – take a look at some of the flavors of food available to contemporary canines:

• Apple cinnamon cookie • Lamb and rice • Duck and potato • Beef stew • Grape and flax seed

(vegetarian)

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set in front of him. If a food doesn’t seem to be working out, ease him into a new selection slowly by

mixing small amounts of the new food into his current one. Increase the amount at each feeding time

until he’s eating only the new food.

Why does he have to eat so quickly?

Let’s play “Let’s Imagine.” Let’s imagine you’re only days old. You’re hungry. You know where the

food is, but so do your eight brothers and sisters. Luckily, there are enough food outlets for… six of

you. I guess that’s not as lucky as I thought. And guess what! All eight of your brothers and sisters are

hungry, too! Do you want to eat now or in 30 minutes, when one of

your siblings might have had their fill and let go of their assigned food

outlet? Oh, but if you do wait 30 minutes, you run the risk that the

sibling, now happily full, just wants to take a nap while still clinging to

that lovely, warm food outlet.

Why are you still standing there? Get your butt over to that food!

Now you know how your dog felt for the first few months of his

life. With limited access to his mother’s nipples, he and his

siblings bit, scratched, and stepped on one another in a race to

get to them first. Those who didn’t get there quickly enough ate

after the rest were finished or, worse, not at all if their mother

was tired of lying still and wanted to get up and move around.

After learning that behavior as a baby, he may still think that his

food supply is always limited and on the go. This is why he

scarfs down whatever you put in his bowl as though he thinks you’re going to try and go after it

yourself, and it’s also why he may feel the need to take the turkey off the counter and run.

Why does he eat grass?

Have you ever gone on a fast-food bender, eating anything you can find with the word “fried” in the

name? When you came out on the other side of those dark, frightening days, you may have found

yourself craving something cold, crisp, and nutritionally clean – something like a salad. Your dog’s

body works the same way. Every so often he may wish to partake of a few juicy blades of grass to

Did you know? Larger puppies take longer to be ready for adult food (up to 18 months) than smaller breeds, who can be ready as early as nine months.

Other Lessons from Puppyhood

Mom’s not always around to clean up after you – sometimes she needs a nap just to get away from you and your siblings.

If you’re a fat puppy, you’ll probably be a fat doggie.

You may think you’re the leader of the pack, but that big, pink guy with only two legs can put you in your place any time.

Mom might put up with a lot, but you’d better watch it when she bites back!

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compensate for a lack of vegetable matter in his diet. If you notice him

grazing often, try switching him to a food with higher veggie content

or even give him some steamed veggies as a treat, as they’re far easier

to digest than grass.

Another reason he may be visiting Nature’s Salad Bar is to help calm down an upset tummy. Dogs will

sometime eat grass to induce vomiting if they’re not feeling well, which is a natural and fairly healthy

way to fight illness.

The only time you need to worry about your dog’s vegetarian habits is if they start interfering with his

regular diet and nutrition. If he refuses to eat his normal food or is inducing vomiting too often, a trip to

the vet is probably in order.

Do I really need that $40 bag of dog food my vet keeps trying to give me?

That depends. Does your vet say you need it? Your veterinarian is just like your doctor – if you’re not

honest and frank with him or her, he/she can’t adequately treat

your dog. If you can’t leave the office without being given a sales

pitch for the newest line of top-quality food, ask exactly what it

will do for your dog and why you need it. Older dogs with more

brittle bones or a lack of energy may benefit from specialized

food, many pups have food allergies that prevent them from

eating store brands, and some more minor conditions can actually

be alleviated through higher-quality food.

The main differences between the more expensive brands and

their cheaper counterparts are ingredients. The higher-priced brands have set formulas for their food,

which means that the ingredients in one bag of food will be identical to the next. Lower-priced brands

have set formulas for nutrition, not the ingredients themselves. This means that the ingredients used to

satisfy those nutritional requirements can vary from batch to batch and can sometimes mean trouble for

owners whose dogs have very set tastes or sensitive bellies.

If your vet gives your dog a clean bill of health and doesn’t have any pressing reasons why he needs the

food, simply say so and feel confident in your choice of food.

Fun fact: The makers of Beano also make a doggie-gas reliever called Curtail.

Remember…

The fact that a food is more expensive doesn’t make it better for your dog. In fact, some dog owners who have switched to premium foods have experienced one of the nastiest side effects of any dog food: gas.

If you decide to go with a premium food, check the ingredients label for soybeans, bean powder, and any other bean ingredient. These can have the same effect on dogs as they do on you. And really, who wants that in their living room?

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I’m a vegetarian/vegan and want my dog to be one as well. How can I do this?

Some of you may be chuckling right now, but that’s no joke. As more humans become vegetarians or

vegans, they’d like their pets to follow suit.

To those of you asking this question, please know that, above all, your dog would never willingly opt

to be a vegetarian if given the choice. Dogs come complete with all of the necessary equipment for

living and eating as carnivores for a reason – they prefer the presence of meat in their diets. In the wild,

dogs receive a majority of the plant and vegetable content they consume from the digestive systems of

herbivorous animals they’ve killed (an icky thought, yes, but important to know). If you are morally

opposed to the use of meat in society and feel that your pets should share your beliefs and morals, then

speak with your veterinarian about possible options.

Some commercial food companies now make vegetarian and vegan dog foods which can be found at

whole food and organic markets. Pay close attention to the content and whether or not the food satisfies

your dog’s nutritional requirements. If not, you may be able to supplement the food with vitamins or

other additives, but always consult your veterinarian.

Never feed your pup tofu, soybean paste, or any other

bean product, especially if he is of a larger or barrel-

chested breed. First of all, would you want to live with

your best human friend after he or she ate large

quantities of beans? Probably not. As you know, beans

create gas. Beyond being aromatically disgusting,

excess gas in larger dogs can build up and lead to

stomach bloat, an often fatal condition.

Can I cook for my dog?

Great question. Now turn to your dog and ask him the

same question out loud. Is he nodding emphatically?

No? Maybe he speaks a different language. Try asking

in German.

Chicken and rice makes for perfect canine cuisine – bon apetit!

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Dogs love home-cooked meals! Besides being a fun treat for both of you, proper home canine cuisine

can be chock-full of great nutrients. The most important point to remember is to include a wide variety

of ingredients. Don’t just broil a chicken breast and slap it in his bowl, give him a side of rice or

potatoes with a teeny bit of natural corn oil stirred in. Make sure that all bones have been removed to

prevent choking or tears in the stomach lining, and use caution if you’d like to include milk. Some

adult dogs have a difficult time processing it, which can mean diarrhea duty for you the next morning.

Can I give my dog vitamins or nutritional supplements?

Yes. No. Maybe. Well…

The answers to this question are as varied as the locations your

dog has hidden his bone in your flower beds. Many food

companies now make supplemental sauces or gravies, others offer

daily multivitamins, and some have odorless and tasteless drops

that can be added to water. Before using any supplement, talk to

your vet. Dogs’ bodies use nutrients in a way similar to the human body in that the digestion of certain

vitamins and minerals can inhibit others. With too much of one vitamin, other vitamins’ levels can drop

drastically and result in life-threatening deficiencies. Your vet can offer recommendations for good

brands of multivitamins; many vets’ offices now sell multivitamins.

You should never, under any circumstance, give your dog additional doses of one specific vitamin

unless it has been prescribed by your veterinarian. While the use of multivitamins is risky, the

consumption of a high dose of a specific vitamin can cause extreme illness for your pup.

My dog just ate the chocolate bunny out of my Easter basket. Is that bad

for him?

In most cases, yes. While the biggest risk for a human eating a chocolate

bunny is an extra layer of padding on the hips, a chemical in chocolate

can be poisonous to dogs.

The chemical, theobromine, exists in higher levels in darker chocolate.

If Peter Cottontail was made with white chocolate, you probably don’t have to worry much and should

just keep a close eye on your dog for the next few hours to make sure he doesn’t get sick. If the bunny

Cooking with Barky McBay

Here’s a tip to make any discriminating dachshund wag his tail with joy: make your dog organic biscotti, then melt down carob and dip half of the biscotti into it. Bellissima!

It’s nearly impossible for your dog to overdose on some vitamins because extra amounts are eliminated in his urine on a regular basis. These include:

• B vitamins • Folic acid • Vitamin C

Of course, since no amounts beyond what he needs are stored in the body anyway, there’s no point in giving him extra.

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was made from dark chocolate, over 4 ounces, and your pup weighs less than ten pounds, it would be a

good idea to get to the vet as soon as possible to head off any adverse reactions.

Before you accost your local pet store manager for stocking chocolate treats, check the label. Most

chocolate dog treats are actually carob, which is harmless, or contain levels of theobromine so low that

even a miniature pooch could handle them.

Oh, someone stop him! That’s just disgusting! No, please, seriously, why

is my dog eating his own/his sibling’s/the cat’s feces and how do I make

him just stop?!

This is a very simple problem to explain and can be somewhat easy to prevent. First, chill out.

Remember that dogs didn’t magically appear on the earth fully domesticated and ready to do our

bidding. They’ve evolved from thousands of different breeds of wild dogs, many of whom were

scavengers. Consuming the fecal matter of little woodland creatures was an excellent way to consume

extra vitamins, so the behavior is sometimes hard-wired into dogs.

My cat, Mr. Meowington, shares his food with my dog. That’s okay, right?

Most of the time, yes. And if you’ve been letting your dog mooch off of Mr. Meowington for any

length of time and try to take away the cat food, you may end up with an extremely unhappy pup, if to

you “unhappy” means “ragingly angry and vocal.” Cat food is far higher in protein than dog food,

which makes it taste richer and provides a lot of extra

energy. However, if your vet has prescribed a low-

protein diet for your dog or he’s already bouncing off

the walls with energy, Mr. Meowington should eat

separately from his canine pal.

How do I know if my dog is obese and what can I do to

help him lose weight?

You (hopefully) don’t feed him chips and beer, he

goes for walks every day, and he eats way less than

you. By that formula, your dog should be in fairly

decent shape. But is he? The nutritional and activity

Did you know? There’s actually a name for the eating of other animals’ droppings – coprophagy.

Measuring Weight Loss

Photos from the side and top can help you measure your pooch’s weight loss successes. Take a few shots at his current weight, then again in three months. Compare them to see

how much healthier he looks!

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needs of dogs are far different from humans’, so that 20-minute walk each day probably won’t do much

for a medium-sized or larger dog. You measure the food you

put in his bowl, but is the food constantly available to him? Do

you give him bits and pieces of your own food? Does he

counter surf or break into trash cans? Any and all of those food

sources need to be taken into consideration. Much like their owners, more and more dogs worldwide

are showing signs of obesity. Besides limiting their enjoyment of life as a dog, extra body weight can

lead to joint and heart problems, shorter lives, and sometimes-behavioral issues.

While some breeds are more prone to obesity than others, every dog can be at risk if fed incorrectly or

not exercised often enough. The easiest way to tell whether or not your dog is obese is to examine his

body. Try the following:

• Have him stand up, then stand above him.

Does his body slope inward at the waist?

• Run your hands over his sides from front to

back legs. Can you feel his ribs fairly easily?

• Feel the base of his tail. Are the bones easily

detectable?

• Look at him from the side. Does his tummy

slope upward as it gets closer to his tail?

If you answered no to any of the questions, your pup

is probably overweight. If you answered “What

waist/ribs/tail bones?” and “Upward? Really?,” your

pup is probably obese.

The methods for treating obesity in dogs are fairly similar to those for treating obesity in their owners,

and the principle is simple: eat less, exercise more. And, just like in humans, actually following through

with the principle is much more difficult than it sounds. If your dog has a constant supply of food,

remove it. Many pet stores stock food scoops with measuring lines included and most food labels have

charts indicating dogs’ food needs by weight. Try feeding your dog at the lower end of the range for a

week, then add a bit more if he seems too lethargic. Create a feeding schedule and stick to it. Whether

Did You Know? Sled dogs running in the Iditarod can use up to 10,000 calories every day. How was your workout today, beefcake?

Weight Watchers Ain’t Just for Humans!

Okay, Weight Watchers is still just for humans, but these resources are great if the doc has told your pooch to lay off the Krispy Kremes:

Dog Weight Loss Calculator http://www.mycockerspaniel.com/wt_loss.htm while the charts and reference material are specific to Cockers, the calculator can be used for any breed.

Fit and Trim http://www.fitandtrim.com/frameset.htm Site for Purina’s weight control dog food, but it also features tools and educational articles

Canine Zone http://healthypetnet.com The Zone diet has worked for millions of humans – maybe the concepts can work for your dog, too!

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you split the amount among two or three separate feedings or one larger meal each day, stay with the

routine and he’ll adjust to it.

Be forewarned, though. Dogs are survival eaters and don’t react

well when their food supply is threatened. Your angelic,

perfectly behaved pooch who has never shown signs of

scavenging may suddenly become a trash can Houdini in

attempts to augment his smaller food allowances. Some start

counter surfing. Not familiar with the term? You’ll understand the terminology the first time you see

your beloved Baxter with his front paws on the edge of the counter, nose to the surface, and back paws

propelling him down the length of the Formica, inhaling anything that crosses his path. While the trash

can raids are more difficult to prevent, counter surfing prevention is elementary: put your food away.

Many behavior and training manuals will instruct you to blast a water gun or air horn every time he

jumps up on the counter to surprise him and get him away from the food, but the pull of his survival

instinct will always be stronger than learned behavior and the next time you leave the room with food

on the counter he’ll be quite the happy pooch. Instead, train yourself. Don’t leave anything within

reach. If you’re preparing a large meal, invest in a baby gate and let Baxter sniff pathetically from

another room.

Securing trash cans involves a completely separate

arsenal. Depending upon his levels of hunger and

intelligence, the right combination of can and lid may

keep him out. Baby locks may be in order for more

experienced raiders, while career Houdinis may require

high-end stainless steel trash cans with laser security

systems. Just kidding! (About the lasers, that is, not the

trash cans.) If you can secure your trash can in a closet or

pantry, do so. Otherwise, be prepared to take a hit to the

wallet or spend 15 minutes scooping up ice cream

wrappers and greasy fried chicken boxes every time you

come home.

Your dieting doggie may turn into a pro scavenger once his food intake is cut down.

Helpful hint: The baby-proofing section of your local hardware store can be a dog owner’s best friend. In addition to cabinet and trash can locks to keep your pooch from getting poisoned or raiding the garbage, you can find toilet lid locks to keep your bathroom high and dry.

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Try giving your buddy some raw fruit or veggies to help him work through the initial pangs. Carrots,

broccoli, apples, and even pickles have fun crunchy textures, and in small quantities they help

complement the nutrients he gets from his usual food. These healthier snacks can contribute to one of

the nastier “benefits” of weight loss, though: gas. When that overwhelmingly pungent odor permeates

your whole house, remember that you’re doing this for your best friend’s health and fitness and that a

few months of gross odors is nothing compared to his wellness.

When it comes to exercise, most owners need more motivation to get themselves outside for a workout

than do their dogs. It doesn’t take a lot of imagination to get a dog exercising – get the leash and head

out for a walk! Plan to spend at least an hour total every day walking, then gradually increase the speed

until your dog is speed-walking or jogging. Yes, it’s time consuming. Yes, you’re busy. If you have

kids, drag them away from the TV and go for a family walk after dinner. If you work out yourself,

figure out a way to incorporate the dog’s walk into your own routine. With the right amount of caution,

you can even have your dog tow you on your bike, skateboard, rollerblades, or skis.

On the weekends, head to the park and play with a

tennis ball, Frisbee, or other dogs. A nice side

benefit of exercise is that it wins you some quiet

time while your dog naps the day away in

contentment. Quit making excuses! Think of it this

way: would you rather see your dog running,

tongue out, tail wagging for the next ten years, or

would you rather he simply laid around the house

for five? How many people get to have a to-do list

that includes “Play with dog?”

The right diet and exercise can make your dog more

social, more obedient, and more dedicated to you due to the extra time you spend together and the extra

attention he receives from you every day. Wasn’t that the whole reason you decided to adopt a dog in

the first place?

Fun Toys and Exercise Ideas for Your Pooch:

FlyBall (www.flyballdogs.com): a high-energy, fast-paced relay, foot race, and game of fetch all in one Skijoring (www.skijoring.com): stay fit in the chill of winter by skiing with your dog BoundAround (www.boundaround.com): great if you’re low on time ChuckIt!: save your arm while throwing 3X further… and making Fido run 3X as much Doggie day care: a small fee for a day of fun at your local kennel Large exercise balls: too big to pick up, these are great to roll around and chase without any help from you Agility training: you’ve seen it on Animal Planet – obstacle courses at full speed Doga: yoga for dogs! Swimming: great low-impact workout for dogs with hip or joint problems

18

The Hip Bone’s Connected to the…

your dog’s bones – no, not the ones he buries in the

yard, the other ones

19

If your girl has ever climbed into your lap, fallen asleep, then tried to do her best cat impression and

knead her way further into your legs, it may have seemed like her entire body was made up of sharp

angles and solid bone.

Dogs skeletons serve the same purpose as most animals’ – it provides the basic framework for the

body, allows it to run, jump, and play, and acts as a shield for the vital organs. Different bones are

connected by ligament and moved by joints, which are then cushioned by cartilage, a natural shock

absorber for the body. Any illness or problem in your pup can be concerning, but bone deficiencies,

deformities, and breaks can be difficult to repair and sometimes painful for your baby.

What makes up bones?

If you’ve ever given your dog a beef bone, pig knuckle, or marrow

bone, you probably noticed the solid consistency. Bones can be hard as

rock, hard enough to break teeth. This might give you the impression

that bones are static, unchanging, but we all know that they do change.

They grow, and at times that growth can cause pain in both humans and dogs because of their compact

make-up.

Bones are alive and kicking, complete with nerves and blood vessels. Their tissue is continuously

broken down and recomposed, and the marrow (the center) of the bone develops red blood cells for the

body.

What do joints do?

Flex your leg up and down. There, that’s what joints do.

Joints, in conjunction with the bones and muscles, help the entire

skeleton move. Without getting too in-depth, a muscle usually

bridges between two joints and contracts to create motion.

How strong are my dog’s bones?

That depends upon your dog, her age, her health, and her

environment. Getting tired of that answer yet? Well, when it comes to bone or joint strength, those

factors can make even more of a difference. Imagine the stress on the bones of a 150-pound dog

Did You Know? Of all general livestock, beef bones are the hardest – and therefore the safest for your dog to chew.

Bone Grafts

If, for some unfortunate reason, your dog requires an amputation, ask your veterinarian about the possibility of performing a bone graft instead. Just as in humans, bone grafts are becoming a more popular, less severe alternative to removing a dog’s leg.

20

compared to those of a 15-pound dog. While the larger dog may have been built to compensate a bit for

its extra weight, the amount of stress placed on her skeleton can reduce the amount of cushioning fluid

in her joints and result in problems.

This is especially true during your dog’s developmental stages.

Larger breeds have weaker bones and slower bone growth during

their first year of life, and even within breeds the smaller female

puppies have stronger skeletons and joints than the larger males.

This means that larger pups should be kept from high-impact

playtimes until their bones mature, since additional stress on their skeleton can result in deformities

later in life.

What if my dog breaks a bone? Will she get a cast we can all sign with little paw prints?

Um, maybe. But you should definitely get her to the vet as soon as possible. If she’s bleeding, apply

pressure and try to find sterile gauze or clean cloth to cover

the cut. Try as hard as you can to keep your pooch from

moving, which can make the break worse or cause her to lose

additional blood. It can be difficult when her little body is

wiggling all over, but ask other people in the area for help if

necessary. If you don’t have any help for the drive to the vet,

use heavy towels to restrain her.

Once you get to the vet, he’ll be able to tell you whether your

dog has a compound, complete, or simple fracture. A

complete fracture causes one or more splits in a bone, while a

compound fracture breaks through the dog’s skin and can

result in additional infections because the wound is open. Simple fractures aren’t apparent like

compound fractures, but they are more prone to swelling.

After X-rays, the vet will repair the split with a number of different possible methods depending upon

the severity. If it’s severe, pins, screws, plates, and wires may be used. If you’re lucky and the break is

minor, the fracture can probably be repaired with that cute little cast you can sign.

Fun Fact: The boxer breed got their name from the way they play with their friends. At a beginning of a play fight, they stand on their hind legs and swing at their opponent with their paws, thus giving the appearance of boxing.

Caring for Pinned Pups

Should your dog require pins in her joint, do your best to not only accommodate the veterinarian’s orders but also her individual needs. Most pinned joints can’t handle things like stairs within the first month, so if your family spends a great deal of time in a room up or downstairs from your dog’s typical living quarters, try to move the action to her neck of the woods for the time being. Isolation from her family could make her decide to attempt climbing the stairs, something which will probably result in her pin breaking and requiring a plate or other stronger fastener to replace it.

21

Did You Know? Acupuncture is an accepted treatment to help dogs suffering from DJD work through the pain. Many veterinarians can recommend holistic and alternative healing specialists for your pooch.

How can I help keep my pup from developing problems with her bones and joints?

Store her in a bubble and only let her play when clothed in full football padding. There’s very little you

can do to prevent joint problems – dogs are dogs because they love to be active, play, and live life. This

can be hard on their joints, which means that they can often become inflamed. Some dogs inherit the

problems from their parents, others develop them, and all can be very painful for your buddy.

Larger and older dogs are prone to degenerative joint disease, a progressive, incurable disorder that

restricts your pooch’s everyday movement and activities. At its worst stages, DJD results in permanent

lameness and can really only be helped by pain management. More importantly, make sure your dog’s

weight is under control. A few additional pounds can mean the difference between a little stiffness

when she wakes up and unbearable pain throughout the day. While it may be difficult for her to get up

and move around, try to keep her active to keep her joints strong. Your vet may be able to give you

some references for hydrotherapy pools that allow animals, then take her swimming for the perfect

low-impact workout!

The strain of arthritis caused by bacterial infections is septic

arthritis and works its way into the joints through open wounds or

even infections in internal organs. As with DJD and most forms of

arthritis, you’ll notice your pooch having difficulty walking or

standing after napping. Your vet will draw some fluid from the joints using a syringe, then analyze it

and prescribe the appropriate antibiotics.

Joint diseases can be very common in certain breeds and nearly always cause lameness and may not be

reversible. Review the chart below for some of the more common diseases and their best treatments.

22

Condition Treatments

Hip dysplasia This is one of the most common conditions in large breeds and

symptoms can include lameness or a “duck walk.” Hip dysplasia

is usually treated in the same way as DJD, so the same factors

(weight, age, etc.) can contribute to its severity. Several surgical

options for pups with hip dysplasia have been introduced recently,

some going as far as complete hip replacement.

Osteochondrosis This disorder usually occurs in puppies when pieces of cartilage

flake off joints. This has two negative effects: the shaved-down

portions of the joint can become irritated, and the flakes of

cartilage can work their way into the joint fluid and interfere with

the joint’s operation. Your dog may recover on her own with rest,

but your vet may recommend surgical removal of the flakes to

help her along.

Elbow dysplasia Elbow dysplasia encompasses a whole salad bar of bone problems

and strikes younger pups. It can worsen with exercise and may

make the elbow swell. If your girl seems to be okay with pain

control and good health, she’ll probably have very few adverse

effects to this condition throughout her life. If the pain starts to

increase, your vet may suggest surgery.

Okay, that’s great, but what about the simpler problems like spraining an ankle or dislocating a joint?

Check out the first aid section on page 86 for step-by-step instructions concerning minor strains,

bumps, and bruises.

23

Hey, Man, Gimme Some Skin!

your dog’s skin, hair, and the problems you may encounter

there

24

Did You Know? The little particles of grass seed that can work their way into your dog’s paws, eyes, and mouth are also called foxtails.

Ever have eczema, poison ivy, or some other yucky, itchy, uncomfortable skin problem? Pretty

disgusting, right? Sweat dries and makes it itch, dry air sucks the moisture out and makes it itch,

clothing rubs up against it and makes it itch… it itches. Now imagine someone forced you to wear

several sweaters whenever you had a skin flare-up and you’ll know what it’s like for your dog.

Beyond the skeleton, a dog’s skin and hair protect his internal organs from damage and infection-

causing bacteria. On top of that, hair protects the skin from his environment and serves as the primary

defense against bacterial bad guys. Skin is very variable and can inflame, thicken, and agitate itself to

stimulate immune system activities and keep infections from getting inside the body. By checking your

dog’s skin regularly and paying attention to things like continuous scratching, biting, and pawing, you

can ensure that his first line of defense stays in top battle condition.

Why does my dog roll in the dirt all the time? It drives me nuts that I

have to keep giving him baths.

So quit bathing him! He’s trying to clean himself. Rolling in the dirt is

also called “dry bathing” and is one of the ways your buddy makes sure

he’s squeaky clean, even in those hard-to-reach areas. Dry bathing helps him get pieces of dirt and

debris loose when he can’t get at them with his paws or mouth. It also stimulates the sebaceous glands,

which emit oil to waterproof the skin and hair.

If you want to bathe Max once a month, go right ahead. It’ll help him in his quest for cleanliness. Also

pick up the necessary tools for brushing and grooming

his coat and pretty up that pooch!

What about those little feet beards my dog has? You

know, the hair between the pads on the bottom of his

feet?

Those little “feet beards” keep dirt and smaller particles

from working their way into the skin. Things like grass

seeds can get easily get under your pup’s skin and

create inflammation or even cysts, so his feet beards are

important in keeping him healthy.

The tufts of hair between your dog’s toes are an important means for keeping his body safe from foreign particles.

25

Helpful Hint: Never use Q-tips to clean your dog’s ears. Are you listening? Never. While you may have complete faith in your control of the cotton swab, dogs hate having their ears cleaned and may make a sudden movement to get away. The cotton swab can end up going further into their ears and cause damage.

The fur between his pads should be of a reasonable length, but don’t try to determine what is

reasonable on your own. Talk to your vet or a professional groomer about the proper way to trim his

foxtails or, if your dog tends to squirm, just ask the groomer to handle the dirty work for you.

What’s the correct way to clean my dog’s ears?

This is especially important to owners with large-eared dogs

like weimaraners, cocker spaniels, and Bassett hounds. While a

little ear wax is fine and helps protect the inner workings of his

ears, excess ear wax can indicate or lead to infection and should

be treated. This balance can be tricky because of the

composition of dog’s ears. Rather than having one canal directly into the ear, pups actually have two

that form a right angle. While the first may be fresh and clean, the second can retain moisture and form

wax.

Ask your vet’s support staff for an ear wax remover and wipe the outer portion of your dog’s ear with a

cotton ball. Do not insert the cotton ball into his ear canal. Keep checking his ears – if the wax returns

with a vengeance before the week is out, schedule a check-up with your veterinarian.

If your pup is wirehaired (Yorkshire terriers, poodles, shih tzus, etc.), he probably has ear hair to rival

your Uncle Frank’s. While it’s a built-in defense against infection, loose hair falling into the canal can

actually cause infection itself and should be

removed. This is way easier than plucking Uncle

Frank. Grasp your dog’s ear hair loosely between

forefinger and thumb, then pull lightly. A few

strands should come out easily and painlessly.

He has some weird thing in his ear. What is it?

That depends – what does it look like? If it’s a dark

or black waxy substance, it may be ear mites, and

you can find more information about them on page

35. If it’s a smallish particle, it may be a grass seed

or other foreign object. You can try to remove it carefully with tweezers to avoid infection, but if it has

Breeds like weimaraners and others with large, floppy ears can end up with serious ear problems without regular cleaning.

26

Did You Know? The noses of some dogs slowly fade from black to a lighter color or freckled combination of several lighter shades over time. This is called “Dudley Nose.”

worked its way into the ear canal you may need to seek professional help from a veterinarian or

groomer.

If his ear is puffy, swollen, and hot, he may have a hematoma. These blood blisters are common in labs

and golden retrievers and can result from a lot of head shaking. Your vet will probably drain the area

and may add a few stitches to the flap to keep it from filling up again.

What kinds of things can cause a problem with my dog’s skin?

For all of their growling and teeth-baring, a lot of dogs are pretty

sensitive, especially when it comes to their skin. Among the most

common triggers of skin problems are diet or environment

changes, and the latter can include anything from a new state to a

newly mown yard or using a new detergent on your pup’s bed. If

you notice any inflammation on him and know that you recently

made a food or detergent switch, try giving him his previous food

or re-wash his bed in the previous detergent and watch him for a

day or two. If the irritation doesn’t subside, cart him into the vet’s office for a check-up. Other major

skin problems can be caused by fleas or other parasites, which you’ll find more information about on

page 31.

What’s the right way to cut my dog’s toenails?

If you look closely at your dog’s claws, you’ll see a

translucent section of nail alone and an opaque section of

tissue below the nail. If you decide to cut his nails by

yourself, use that section of tissue as a guide – never cut

above it, as it can result in bleeding and infection. Use

clippers of a size appropriate for your pup’s claws and make

sure the blade is sharp since dull blades mean that you have

to apply more pressure and can be more traumatic for your

dog. If you do cut too high and he starts to bleed, apply

pressure using a paper towel or clean cloth soaked in warm

water. If you’re an extremely well-prepared owner and have a styptic pen, even better. You can find

styptics in a drugstore with bee sting treatments, or just ask the pharmacist for help.

Footpads

If you decide to clip your dog’s nails yourself, use extra caution not to nick the pads on his feet. Footpads are even more prone to infection than other areas of the body, and a cut pad can be attractive to ground-level parasites. Also be careful if you run with your dog for extended periods on cement or gravel, as some breeds’ pads can easily split or crack due to stress. If his footpads begin to bleed, apply pressure using a warm, wet cloth. The bleeding should stop within 30 minutes.

27

Fun Fact: A dog helped in inventing VELCRO! The inventor, George deMestral, reputedly took his dog for a walk in a rural area and, upon arriving home, found his fur covered in burrs. After examining them under a microscope, he emulated the hook and eye structure to make one of the most versatile fabrics in history.

Some dogs don’t like to have their nails clipped or even have their paws touched. In those cases, it’s

really in both of your best interests to take him to a groomer or the vet to have them clipped by a

professional. It takes less time, cuts down on the risk of injury, and is just more pleasant for both of

you.

My dog is going bald! I thought it was bad enough that my

husband was losing his hair, but now my little baby is losing

all of his fur! What’s going on?

Whoa, there! Someone’s a little too sensitive about the

baldness. Calm down – fur loss isn’t necessarily permanent,

and it also doesn’t necessarily mean that something is wrong

with your dog. There are tons of things that cause baldness, some of which your dog has been inflicting

on himself.

Have you noticed him licking a specific spot obsessively? If so, he may also be scratching it when

you’re not looking. This is referred to as lick dermatitis and can lead to both hair loss and skin

irritation. Treatments for this condition often involve using the funky-looking satellite dishes you see

some poor pooches wearing, since it keeps them from

licking the area while a vet is treating it. Your veterinarian

may prescribe antibiotic creams or pills, both of which

fight the infection that may have been caused by the

licking. This condition can also result from leaving your

dog alone for long periods of time or not giving him

enough exercise. He’s bored! Check out the creative

exercise methods listed on page 15 for some fun ways to

distract him from that nasty hobby.

Perhaps the most recognizable skin/hair condition is

ringworm, in which a circular patch of hair is lost and the

underlying skin becomes inflamed. Contrary to what the name suggests, ringworm is a fungus, not a

parasite, and can create a crust that dogs love to scratch off. Your vet may decide to let your dog’s

A Virtual Rainbow…

While dogs come in a variety of shades, some (typically blue and fawn-colored dogs) are more prone to skin problems like baldness and loss of color. If you notice odd hair or color loss on your pooch, it may be: • Hypopigmentation – loss of pigment in

fur or nose; may be seasonal or due to skin problems

• Hyperpigmentation – extra pigmentation or more vivid coloring; typically due to sunlight or allergies

• Color-dilution Alopecia – loss of hair in small circular areas accompanied by a fading of pigmentation; usually hereditary

28

Did You Know? Vibrissae are the tiny touch-sensitive hairs on a dog’s muzzle. They’re so sensitive they can detect changes in the airflow around the face.

immune system try to heal the infection itself. If not, he’ll probably recommend an antifungal bath and

ointment.

And, unfortunately for your pooch, he can suffer from the same types of baldness as your hubby.

Pattern baldness is symmetrical and usually strikes around the ears. And, just like your husband’s

baldness, there’s no real treatment. Hey! Get the Rogaine away from the dog, okay? You’ll just have to

get used to his new look.

My dog doesn’t look like my husband… he looks like my

teenager! What’s up with the zit minefield on his chin?

Next thing you know, you’ll be taking the dog down to the kennel and embarrassing him in front of all

of his friends. Unlike your teen, a dog’s pimples are an indication that his body is fighting hard to

prevent some sort of infection. It’s completely normal but should be monitored – when doggy pimples

burst, the result is a lot worse than being called “Pizza Face” by the cute girl in study hall. The contents

can eat into the skin and cause a secondary infection. If you notice several pimples bursting at once and

causing your pup pain, get to the vet.

29

So Then the Dentist Says to the Alligator…

ways to keep your dog out of the dentist’s chair and what to

do if he ends up there

30

You may have heard the saying that a dog’s mouth is like her hands. She uses them to explore, touch,

hold, and carry things in addition to its digestive functions. On top of all of those tasks, a dog’s mouth

is a natural first aid kit. Her saliva is infused with antibacterial properties, which is often why dogs lick

cuts and scrapes.

Now think of your hands. With all of the exploration, touching, holding, and carrying they do, would

you go a day without washing them? Of course not! But many dog

moms and dads have the same dental care habits for their dogs as they

do for their own flossing – they do it a few times a year, tops, then

when the doctor asks they put on an honest face and swear to a regular schedule.

Swear no more! Keep reading to get acquainted with your pooch’s chompers and understand why it is

so vital to keep a regular cleaning schedule.

How many teeth does my dog have?

If she has them all and is fully grown, 42. Adult dogs have 20

teeth in their upper jaw and 22 in the lower one. Babies are

born without teeth (you can breathe a sigh of relief on behalf

of all of the mommy dogs out there), but grow a total of 28

baby teeth by about eight weeks and start to lose them by 13

weeks.

How am I supposed to know if something is wrong with my

dog’s teeth? She can’t talk, you know.

Here’s where you get down and dirty. Your dog should be

accustomed to letting you touch and examine her body. If

not, start by having her sit and running your hands over her

back, legs, belly, tail, and head. Lift her paws and examine

them, then do the same with her ears. Once she is used to you performing these impromptu exams, try

looking at her mouth. Hold her lower jaw with one hand and use it to pull her lower lip below the gum

line. Lift her upper lip with your other hand and check both her teeth and gums for discoloration,

cracks, tenderness, and tartar.

Fun fact: The roots of Fifi’s teeth are longer than the teeth themselves to hold them securely in place.

Other Signs Something May be Wrong

They may not speak, but dogs often give plenty of warning if something isn’t working or feeling quite the way they think it should. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language and actions. If she’s doing any of the following, she may not be in top dental health:

• Halitosis (nastier breath than usual)

• Extreme drooling • Trouble swallowing • Chattering teeth • Hesitation to eat • Tilting her head while eating • Pawing at her mouth

If you notice any of these signs, try sticking to a good dental regimen for a week. If she’s still having trouble, get her to the vet for a dental exam.

31

Now put on your Bravery Hat and use the thumb of your bottom hand and forefinger of your top hand

to open her mouth. Check that her tongue is a healthy pink color without cuts or irritation, the inner

edges of teeth and gums according to the list above, and that the roof of her mouth is free of

discoloration or inflammation. Take a quick whiff of her breath. If it smells odd or extremely bad –

let’s remember that she’s a dog and that it’s difficult to have minty-fresh breath whilst sniffing fellow

dogs’ rear-ends – contact your veterinarian.

Okay, fine, I’ll do it. How do I brush her teeth?

Gee, there’s that go-getter spirit! This is easiest if you start when your dog is a puppy by letting her

hold a toothbrush in her mouth, then working up to actually brushing her teeth. If she’s beyond puppy

status, try having a partner hold her while you brush a few teeth at a time and subsequently reward her.

While it’s all right to use a people toothbrush, use only toothpaste approved for dogs or a simple salt

water solution. Regular toothpaste

includes too many detergents and

fluoride, which can be harmful to

dogs.

Many pet stores now carry full

dental care kits, which include

toothpaste in flavors more in line

with doggie taste buds, a

toothbrush, gum massager, and

hints for easier brushing.

The easiest way to supplement

weekly brushings? Bones and

toys meant to stimulate the teeth

and gums. These help reduce tartar and plaque, give your dog’s jaws a workout, and get the blood

flowing to the gums. Don’t let them chew longer than 15 minutes, though, and make sure the bones are

hard enough not to splinter and cause problems with digestion.

Good dental hygiene is important to the overall health of your dog. While you can use a regular toothbrush for your dog, find a dog-specific toothpaste to avoid illness.

32

Can my dog get cavities?

Of course, but not for the same reasons you get cavities. You get

them because you won’t stop eating those chocolate bars before

bed, and it’s the same reason you keep breaking out! When will

you listen to your mother?

Cavities are pretty rare in dogs and don’t come from eating too

much sugar or not brushing their teeth before bed. But if one happens to work its way into your

buddy’s mouth, she’ll have to have it filled using almost exactly the same materials and equipment the

dentist used to fill your last cavity.

How do dogs break their teeth and what can I do to stop it from happening?

Dogs love to chew hard objects. Bones, wood, furniture, stones – it doesn’t matter, they all make your

pooch equally delighted. Unfortunately, she may be so delighted that she doesn’t realize when she’s

broken a tooth from overzealous gnawing. If you notice a crack or chip in one of her teeth, take a closer

look. Simply breaking the enamel of the tooth won’t cause any major problems and can be left alone.

But if the break goes deeper

into the pulp of the tooth where

nerves and blood are stored,

she’ll end up in a fair amount of

pain. If the break is, in fact,

deep enough that the inner

portions of the tooth are exposed, she may require a root canal or extraction.

To help prevent such major breaks, stick with dental toys or hard plastic bones. If you can’t bear the

thought of depriving your dog the pleasure of a real bone, keep the chewing sessions to 10 minutes or

less and never play catch with a bone.

What else can happen to my dog’s teeth, mouth, or throat, and what can I do about it?

Just as in their human moms and dads, dogs’ mouths and throats can go through painful viral or other

infections that can be difficult to pinpoint and treat. The chart above lists some of the more common

problems and what your vet may prescribe for treatment.

Condition Possible Treatment

Abscessed tooth Extraction or root canal

Mouth infection Typically antibiotics.

Cuts and burns Rinse with cool water, contact vet.

Sore throat Typically antibiotics.

Slack jaw Diseased teeth removed. Lower jaw stabilized.

Helpful hint: Nasty breath keeping you from accepting your canine’s kisses? Many pet stores and websites now offer doggie breath mints, breath strips, and even natural breath enhancers in pill form to make your baby’s breath as sweet as her personality.

33

Don’t Let the Bed Bugs Bite!

keeping those pesky parasites away from your pretty puppy

34

Did You Know? A flea’s bites themselves won’t make your dog itch, but the allergic disorder fleas carry in their saliva will.

They’re the bane of every pet owner. Fleas, ticks, mites, lice, mosquitoes, worms, the list goes on and

on and on and on and… well, you get the point. Once one pet has them, chances are the rest in the

house have them as well, and so do your carpets and furniture. They’re a pain to eradicate, so the best

way to get rid of them is to keep your pup from ever getting them in the first place. It can be very time

and energy intensive, but would you rather spend a little time preventing them or a lot of time

exterminating them?

I can handle ticks and mosquitoes, but what am I supposed to do about fleas? Every time I think I’m rid

of them, they come back! How are they getting on my dog and what can I do about them?

Ugh. That’s certainly the definition

of a face only a mother could love.

While that’s actually a human flea,

animal fleas are very similar in

appearance and modus operandi. As

insects, fleas have a body

segmented into three portions, each

of which has a set of very strong

legs to power their infamous

jumping.

If the fact that they live off your

dog’s blood and skin flakes wasn’t

lovely enough, consider the fact that, for each little bugger you find on your dog, there are probably

100 more on her coat, in your house, or just outside your door waiting to

be hatched, grown, and matured into biting machines in their own right.

If you comb through your pup’s coat and find what looks like salt and

pepper, you’ve got a flea problem. Ideally, you should apply a flea and

tick repellant recommended by your vet to your dog’s coat on a monthly basis. If you haven’t been

doing so and notice fleas, you’re in for a full-house treatment.

Without treating the house and surrounding areas, your dog (and any other pets) will easily attract a

new batch of blood-suckers once his dip or powder wears off. Begin by bathing your dog with a flea

preventative, then apply the flea repellant recommended by your vet. Treat your carpets with an

Fleas are one of the most common parasites pet owners must face.

35

Helpful hint: For an easy way of figuring out whether your dog has fleas, have him sit on several white pieces of paper. Rub his coat against the lay of his fur. If you see black specks on the paper, they’re likely either flea dirt or fleas themselves.

approved flea treatment, then continue to treat furniture, flowerbeds adjacent to your house, and any

areas of your yard frequented by your dog. Any household cats should also be treated, but do not use

the same chemicals you used on your dog. Speak with your vet about appropriate feline flea treatments,

as chemicals suitable for dogs can be fatal for cats.

Okay, smarty, what about ticks?

You’ve probably had a run-in with ticks at some point,

whether on your dog, your child, or yourself. They also

love to feast on the blood of mammals and tend to hang

out near ground level until they sense a shadow, vibration,

or heat, which clues them into the fact that a potential

snack bar just came into the area. After finding a suitable

place on the host animal, the tick dives right through the

skin and gorges itself. Their saliva can cause

inflammations on the skin, but a more troubling problem is an infestation of several ticks, which can

lead to anemia. In extremely bad cases, the poison in a tick’s saliva can cause paralysis, Lyme disease,

and Rocky Mountain spotted fever.

Prevention of tick bites is identical to prevention of fleas – consistent monthly use of a flea and tick

repellant recommended by your veterinarian. Even then, the repellant may not work well against

different varieties of ticks and you should make it a habit to check your dog for possible parasites after

any walk in the woods.

If you find a tick on your dog, get tweezers as close to your

dog’s skin as possible, then grab onto the tick’s body. Remove

the tick slowly, then clean your pup’s skin with an antiseptic

or, at the very least, soap and water.

And lice? Are they the same as in humans?

No, but they do leave their eggs on dogs in the same way they leave them on humans. In fact, that’s

how you’ll be able to tell whether or not your pooch has lice at all. If you comb through her fur and

notice egg-like flakes, get to the pet store and find a lice treatment. Shampoo her fur and spray her

combs, bed, and any other areas she frequents with an insecticide. Because one variety of lice feeds on

Pregnant ticks are one of the most disgusting creatures on the planet. Come on, you know you were thinking it, too!

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Helpful hint: Be careful with bug repellants. While the ones in your garage may work wonders for you, they can contain chemicals that are poisonous to your dog. Even if it doesn’t touch her skin, she can lick it off her fur later and swallow it.

blood, make sure she’s not showing any signs of anemia (typically lethargy or exhaustion). If so, speak

with your vet about giving her an iron supplement or multivitamin.

What about mosquitoes? They’re annoying, but

are they really something I should worry about?

Yes. In many parts of the world, mosquitoes are

carriers for heartworms and can infect your dog if

she’s not on a heartworm preventative. On top of

that, would you like it if your owners let pesky

insects bite you over and over so you had to

scratch like mad? Didn’t think so.

If she loves the outdoors, keep her coated in a pet-

friendly bug repellant and make sure she takes a

regular heartworm treatment. Some flea and tick treatments now include a mosquito repellant, so you

may want to talk to your vet about the possibility of switching

to one of the newer treatments.

My dog has a bunch of dark wax in her ears. Should I be

worried?

Dark brown or black wax can be an indicator of ear mites. You can confirm this by running a cotton

ball over the outer part of your dog’s ears, then holding the cotton ball against a dark piece of paper

under a bright light. If you see any movement, your pup has ear mites.

While many pet stores carry ear wash, the best idea is to speak with your vet. He or she can prescribe

stronger washes and medications to get rid of the mites and their eggs as well as any secondary yeast

infection they may have created.

Okay, that’s great, but I can see all of those things for myself. What about the bugs that might be inside

my dog?

Internal parasites can be maddening, dangerous, and a major problem for dog owners. You can’t see

them, and often the symptoms aren’t major or obvious.

Mosquitoes may just seem like a nuisance, but they can be fatal for dogs.

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Fun fact: Have you spent any time on Friendster.com, the newest trend in social networking? Well, if your pooch is somebody who’s anybody, be sure he has an account and profile on Dogster.com, Friendster’s canine counterpart.

The most common of these parasites are worms, and the most common worms are roundworms. Your

dog may pick up roundworms from infected soil, and symptoms can include “spaghetti stool” (feces

that look like spaghetti), vomiting, or diarrhea. Your vet can

detect the presence of roundworms by examining your dog’s

stool under a microscope and will treat her with one of the

common worm treatments. Roundworms can be avoided by

using a regular worm preventative.

Hookworms are intestinal parasites that can cause anemia by sucking blood through the internal organs.

As a result, diarrhea, weakness, and weight loss can occur. Hookworms are extremely easy for your

pup to contract – they can move through their pads or belly into the body from the soil or grass or can

be ingested. If you notice dark or bloody diarrhea, your dog may have contracted hookworms. Other

dogs have no symptoms at all. In both cases, deworming treatment is required for an extended period of

time. Hookworms, like roundworms and heart worms, can be

avoided by using a regular worm preventative.

Heartworms are one of the most well-known internal parasites

and can be easily prevented with a regular heartworm treatment.

You know that they’re transmitted through mosquitoes and

grow inside the heart until they completely block heart

functions and lead to heart failure. Coughing, weight loss, and

fainting can be indicators that heartworms are present in your pooch, so get to the vet if you notice one

of those symptoms. Because the worms can cause respiratory problems, stop all exercise. Your vet will

recommend a treatment based on the severity of the problems, which may include medication

injections, aspirin, treatment for heart failure, and regular testing.

Tapeworms

Another commonly contracted worm is the tapeworm, which doesn’t cause any illness or pain for your dog but does pass through feces. This can be somewhat worrisome (and gross) to see in her waste, and tapeworms are hazardous to people. Although they don’t make your dog sick, she should still be treated.

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Love is in the Air… and so are Germs

protecting against the bugs you can’t see

39

So now you know all about the little creepy crawlies that can bother your baby, but what about the ones

you can’t really see? These can cause even more damage than the pests that are obvious to the eye. Just

as in humans, viruses and germs like streptococci and hepatitis can cause severe pain, discomfort, and

sometimes even death in your dog. Fortunately, there are measures you can take to help prevent the

invasion of these nasty bugs. The first step, as always, is education.

What are some of the germs and viruses that can cause damage to my dog’s health?

Do you have a few days? The list is gigantic, but many of those are fairly rare. We’ll go through some

of the most common germs that can do her the most

harm.

• Blastomyces: If you live in an area filled

with birds, you may want to be careful about

where your pooch plays. Try to keep her out

of shady areas beneath bird-packed trees, as

the combination of the droppings and the

lack of germ-killing sunlight makes those

spots a hotbed for germ activity. This fungus

can cause blastomycosis, which, in addition

to twisting your tongue in knots while

saying its name, will give your pup a bad

case of bronchitis, pneumonia, or skin sores.

• Streptococci: You may have run into this

one yourself. While some streptococci

bacteria are a standard aspect of your dog’s

skin, others can weasel their way into the

body and cause infection. If you notice sores

on your pup’s skin that are raised and whitish or look as though they may contain pus, she may

have a strep infection.

• Rhabdovirus: Think you’ve never heard of this one? Think again. Look at the first syllable –

sound familiar? These guys are the virus that causes rabies.

• Leptospira: The perfect reason to keep your pooch from drinking from outdoor puddles. This

bacteria contaminates water, especially water located near areas where livestock or rodents are

A tree full of birds can do more than just dive-bomb your dog – the area beneath the tree can contain a high amount of blastomyces, germs that can cause severe skin and respiratory problems.

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Helpful hint: Many vets now offer extended release versions of more common vaccines. Also ask about 6-month heartworm preventative injections that are now available.

located. It’s responsible for some horrendous kidney problems, so keep your pup away from

any water you can’t be certain is safe.

How can I keep my dog from ingesting or contracting any of these bugs?

Put simply, vaccination. While vaccination has come under

fire in recent years for effectiveness, it is still the most

widely veterinarian-accepted way of preventing disease and

infection. Some people get a little worried about the fact that

vaccines typically entail injecting your dog (or you, or your child) with some form of the very virus

you’re hoping to prevent. Vaccines, however, come in three forms, none of which feature fully active,

pure, living versions of the virus. Others feel that vaccines “teach” a dog’s immune system to rely on

shots or outside influence to prevent disease, which means the immune system itself may end up being

weaker. If you have concerns about vaccination, do a little research into alternative methods and ask

your veterinarian for 10 minutes in which you can openly discuss the positives and negatives of each.

You need to feel confident and comfortable about your dog’s health care – she’ll know if you’re not,

and the nerves and apprehension will trigger her own anxiety. This definitely weakens the immune

system.

If you choose to go with traditional vaccination, your

vet will plot a timeline for your dog’s shots. The

highest time of vaccination is during the first year.

After that you should need only 6-month or annual

renewals. If you decide to take your pooch on vacation

or move to another region or country, contact your vet

for any special instructions or vaccines specific to that

area. Beyond preventative medication, practice

caution in other areas of your dog’s life and activities.

As mentioned previously, your pup should never be

allowed to drink from standing water, puddles, or, if

you can avoid it, even rivers and lakes. When taking

her for nature hikes, bring along a travel bowl and

bottle of water to make sure she has a fresh source. If you ever notice her digging or chewing in an

unfamiliar area outdoors, investigate immediately. Never let her kill and eat rodents, other small

Homeopathy

This debate is as hot and heavy as any in international politics. Many homeopathic healers feature treatments of major veterinary diseases, and some have begun to offer a homeopathic alternative to vaccination. Called nosodes, the homeopathic medicines are created with strains of actual disease organisms by extracting the organisms from the bodily excretions of a dog affected with the corresponding disease. The dog to be protected is then given the medicine. Whether or not you decide to opt for the use of nosodes with your pup depends upon your opinion and your vet’s input. As would be expected, the results from academic studies usually claim that nosodes don’t offer protection while homeopathic healers claim otherwise.

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Quick tip: If you are diagnosed with strep throat, pneumonia, bronchitis, or a more serious infectious disease, you may want to get your pup to the vet. Dogs can both carry and contract human diseases and often need to be treated to get the virus out of the household completely.

animals, or their carcasses. You should even practice caution with unfamiliar dogs who may be

infected. Dogs’ natural instinct to sniff and lick various areas of each other’s bodies is a great way for

bacteria and viruses to jump from dog to dog.

You certainly can’t (and shouldn’t) keep your dog locked up in

the house seven days a week – she’s a dog, for goodness’ sake!

She’ll run into some nasty bacteria now and then, but most of

the time her immune system will launch and attack

immediately. Rather than being overprotective of her, just be

aware of your surroundings and what she may be getting into.

Okay, so say she gets a virus. What happens then?

If not killed by the immune system, viruses can develop into viral diseases or infections. These can be

as simple as bronchitis or as complex and damaging as rabies or heart disease. Once a virus has gotten

past the immune system, it begins killing cells in the body. This results in disease and the symptoms of

the disease. What can occur after infection depends a great deal on which virus has invaded the body,

but below are a few common viral and bacterial diseases.

• Parvovirus: Many people currently feel that

the canine version of this virus is actually a

mutation of the parvovirus that’s common in

cats. It’s a very hardy virus and can survive

for up to six months without a host – it also

withstands common disinfectants. Because it is spread through infected fecal matter, pups who

have a nasty habit of eating other dogs’ feces are at high risk. But because the virus is only

needed in small quantities to cause disease or severe infection, your dog can contract it just by

licking her feet or fur after coming into contact with fecal matter. Its spread through the

bloodstream ultimately leads it to the bone marrow, intestinal lining, and other areas where cells

replicate quickly. Symptoms include stomach pain, vomiting, diarrhea, and lethargy, but lack of

proper treatment can cause shock and death.

• Distemper: The troubling side to this condition is that, even after successful treatment through

antibiotics, dogs often develop encephalitis. The brain inflammation can trigger seizures,

convulsions, poor behavior, and even blindness. Survivors often develop a jerky motion in their

Never vaccinate a dog who: • Is under 8 weeks old; • Is in heat; • Is pregnant; or • Is ill or injured.

Make sure your vet knows that your pooch fits into one of the above categories if that period of time overlaps a checkup.

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Get medical attention immediately if you or your dog has been bitten by a rabid animal. Many people are frightened by the treatment of rabies in humans or that their dog’s head will be cut off, but these are both older ways of dealing with the disease. While humans once had to undergo injections directly into their stomach using gigantic needles, current treatments involve standard-sized needles given at the site of the wound. Similarly, dogs are often only treated and quarantined if reported quickly enough… a far cry from the older canine treatments.

Helpful hint: Kennel cough can be distinguished from normal coughing through its dry, shallow honk. It was named because the disease is transmitted best in close quarters with poor ventilation, but many kennels today take great steps to preventing such conditions.

muscles that lasts for life. Early symptoms

of the disease include fever, fatigue,

vomiting, and discharge from the eyes and

nose.

• Kennel Cough: The symptoms for this

virus should be fairly obvious. The respiratory infection is due to the fact that bacteria destroy

the small hairs that line the upper respiratory tract and filter out nasty germs and other bacteria.

Once those hairs are gone, the germs have the chance to take up residence further down in the

respiratory tract or even in the lungs themselves. If the dogs don’t recover within a few days,

other bacteria and fungi move in and can cause even deeper

complications. While not every cough is necessarily a

symptom of kennel cough, those accompanied with a deep

hacking sound run a good chance of being responsible.

• Rabies: Anyone who has seen, read, or even heard of

Stephen King’s Cujo or Old Yeller knows about this killer

virus and its trademark mouth foam. There is no effective

treatment for the virus, which means that it is always fatal.

Vaccinations are especially important for rabies, and many

governments mandate regular vaccination periods.

Transmitted by saliva, the most common means of

infection is through bites, typically from wild animals such

as raccoons and possums. The virus attacks the

nervous system and has the potential to turn the

most docile family pet into a raging, irrational

predator. The final stage of the virus is its attack

on the brain and subsequent infection. Because a

lesser-known version of the virus causes

paralysis and lethargy without the accompanying

rage, it’s important to be aware of any changes

in your pup’s personality and get her to the vet

for diagnosis before she transmits to other

animals. If your dog is up to date on her rabies vaccines but is bitten by an animal you feel may

Rabies can turn your once sweet and harmless pet into a ferocious predator.

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Quick tip: Dogs that play in areas frequented by cows and horses are at the highest risk for tetanus. If your dog loves to hang out in the stable or corral, be sure to check her for cuts and scratches before and after playtime and get her tetanus shot updated regularly.

carry the virus, wash the wound with soap and water (wear gloves!) and take her to the vet for a

booster. Watch her closely for the next month or two and let your veterinarian know of any

personality changes or drops in energy.

• Tetanus: This infection is common in nearly all warm-blooded animals and is most commonly

contracted through the presence of soil in a deep wound. If the infection goes unnoticed and

untreated, it can cause spasms, lockjaw, and even death. The easiest way to prevent the

infection is to routinely inspect your pup for cuts,

scrapes, and wounds. This is especially important after

an outdoor playtime or hike when you may have been

unable to monitor exactly what she was doing at all

times. If you notice any particularly deep cuts, have

your vet check her out.

• Lyme Disease: Again, this condition is common in both humans and dogs, and symptoms

mirror one another between species. Carried by ticks, it is most common in heavily wooded

areas in which ticks have access to a number of different animal hosts. Lyme disease doesn’t

originate with the tick itself. The initial host is usually a rodent or other small animal that

frequents areas with high amounts of bacteria (garbage dumps and sewers are great breeding

grounds). After the tick bites the rodent, it moves on to a bigger host and transmits the Lyme

bacteria from the mouse through its saliva.

Main symptoms of Lyme disease are

lameness, lethargy, weight loss, and fever. To

prevent the disease, be certain your pooch is

on a regular tick preventative, but also make

sure you run your hands through her coat and

inspect her thoroughly after outdoor walks. If

you’ve been in a more heavily forested area,

continue checking her on a daily basis for up

to a week after the outdoor playtime. And, as a

measure of self-preservation, check your own

body at the same time.

Treatment for most viruses and infections is focused around antibiotics. Whether administered via

liquid, pill, or shot, all have been tested extensively as the antibodies to particular viruses. Some

Check your dog’s fur routinely for any trace of ticks. This helps lower the chance that she’ll contract Lyme disease.

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treatments will require extra care from you in the form of increased water intake, ice on a wound, or

trying to keep your pup from licking an infected area. Many viruses and infections are now treatable

and non-fatal, it’s just a matter of knowing your dog and being aware of the things she encounters on a

day-to-day basis.

45

Are You Sure He Doesn’t Have the Plague?

less common conditions and what to do about them

46

Quick tip: If you’re worried about your dog being at a higher risk of infection because of all of the sick puppies and kitties that make their way through your vet’s office, don’t be. Veterinary clinics have plenty of specially-made disinfectants to keep their floors, walls, and exam rooms squeaky clean.

Every dog mom and dad has dealt with icky stuff on the carpet. The next time you have a cocktail party full of dog lovers, try serving this fun (and potent) drink!

Dog Vomit 30 ml (1 oz.) 151 proof rum

30 ml (1 oz.) tequila 30 ml (1 oz.) Jagermeister

Starting with the rum, layer each of the drinks on top of

each other in a glass.

There’s a fine line between giving dog owners enough information to keep their pups healthy and

giving them so much that every sniffle, sad eye, and day of laziness is misconstrued as a major health

condition. But because education is so important in dog ownership, it’s really your responsibility to

know as much as possible – or have quick access to the information – and be able to determine what is

and isn’t a life-threatening situation. It can be difficult not to have a panic attack when it seems like

your little girl isn’t feeling up to par, but think of all of the

stress involved for a dog just in going to the vet. She has to be

packed into the car, driven all the way there (okay, maybe that

part’s not so bad), taken out of the car, slide across cold,

slippery tile floors on her toenails, then get poked and prodded

by someone she doesn’t really recognize but who often smells

like cats. It’s not really a canine daydream. If you notice that your pooch just seems a little off, give her

a day or two and see if the symptoms progress. Most dog owners can tell if the situation is really dire

and more urgent. To help you make those decisions, keep reading for information about some of the

more uncommon diseases and conditions that can affect your pup.

My dog has been throwing up constantly, but she doesn’t act sick after she’s done. What’s wrong with

her?

She may have inflammatory bowel disease, or IBD. Its name is a little misleading, since IBD is

actually a collection of different diseases teaming together to form one big tummy ache. Many dogs

who are affected with IBD vomit frequently as their main symptom

while others go through diarrhea, loose stools, more frequent need to

defecate, weight loss, and even anemia. The particular intestinal cell

that is inflamed by your dog’s case of IBD dictates the actual diagnosis

and disease name. Your veterinarian may want to examine your dog’s

intestines or perform a biopsy to more accurately pin down the

condition, but one of the main factors in almost any case of IBD is a

food allergy. Your vet will probably recommend a hypoallergenic diet

and may also prescribe antibiotics to help calm the allergens in your

pup’s body. The chart on the next page will give you a more accurate look at the types of IBD, their

symptoms, and their specific treatment courses.

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Quick tip: Because the meninges work so closely with the brain, what looks like meningitis may actually be a problem with the brain itself. Noticing symptoms and getting treatment quickly are the most important elements in determining where the problem lies.

Type Symptoms Treatment

Allergic gastritis

Intermittent vomiting tinged with bile, often at set periods after eating. The dog will often behave normally after vomiting.

Hypoallergenic diet, antibiotics

Allergic enteritis Diarrhea and possible vomiting Hypoallergenic diet, antibiotics

Allergic colitis Bloody diarrhea Antibiotics

Eosinophilic enteritis Thick stools, dull coat, fast weight loss

Antibiotics and treatment for any parasites

My dog has been lying around for days and it seems like she may have a fever. What’s wrong?

Check her gums. If they look as though they’ve gotten paler, get her to the vet immediately. If they

look all right, try to make an appointment with the

veterinarian in the next few days. Your pooch may have

immune-mediated hemolytic anemia, or IMHA. This

is a disease of the immune system – actually, it’s the

most common disease of the immune system – and can

be caused by a number of different things including

vaccination, antibiotics, viruses, and previous diseases.

Whether your dog has a sudden onset or a more gradual

incubation period, the quicker your vet can administer

antibiotics the better.

IMHA is especially common in female dogs midway through life, and it’s tricky to pin down exactly

how it’ll affect your dog. It is life threatening, so you should always get to the vet as soon as possible,

but some dogs experience only a single, severe flare-up while others have recurring bouts with IMHA

throughout their lives. This, of course, affects the necessary treatment. Your dog may need only one

rigorous round of drug therapy while others will remain on medication indefinitely. In some extreme

cases, blood transfusions may be necessary.

My vet says my dog has meningitis. What does that mean?

Meningitis is an inflammation in the meninges, the

membranes that coat and protect the brain and spinal cord.

Typically caused by an infection and potentially life-

Gums should always have a healthy pink color – if they look ashy, grey, or white, get to the vet.

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Helpful hint: It is often noted that people with seizure disorders smell and taste odd things just before a seizure – pennies, freshly-cut grass, something from childhood, and more. While dogs can’t tell us that they smell something weird, their owners can pay close attention to even the smallest change in behavior that may indicate an oncoming seizure.

Being in the room during a painful veterinary procedure may make you tear up, but the effects of your tears are worse for your dog. The stress can constrict his veins, making it even harder for techs to finish the procedure and stop the pain.

threatening, meningitis can be either bacterial or non-bacterial. Bacterial meningitis is transmitted

through the bloodstream from a secondary wound or infection. The cause of non-bacterial (or aseptic)

meningitis is unknown. You can tell if your dog has meningitis by noticing signs of depression, fever,

seizures, and a general loss in coordination.

What is difficult about meningitis from an owner’s perspective is the

diagnosis. Your vet will have to extract fluid from your pup’s spine to

properly diagnose it, which means he’ll be inserting a large needle

directly into your dog’s back. This can be painful for the dog even

with anesthesia, so it may be best to leave the room and allow the vet

and technicians to handle the procedure… your tears and tension just

make the situation more stressful for your pooch. Meningitis can usually be treated effectively with

anti-inflammatory medications. In the case of bacterial meningitis or seizures as symptoms, antibiotics

and anti-seizure meds may also be administered.

Can dogs get epilepsy?

Yep. They can also contract a number of other disorders that

cause seizures. As anyone who owns an epileptic pooch knows,

the seizures can be very variable, coming in either one long

session or several short “clustered” seizures. Some are even so

minor that you may not notice them happening; your dog’s legs

may suddenly tense up for a minute or two at a

time and then go back to normal. Major seizures,

also called “grand mal” seizures, have several

standard stages and can last up to an hour.

Seizures often originate with a traumatic brain

injury, but epilepsy can also be present in a dog’s

body from birth. In order to differentiate epilepsy

from a brain injury, doctors often require your

pup’s complete medical history, an EEG, and

several blood tests. Medication is the remedy of

Daily insulin shots may be a necessity for any dog with diabetes.

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Fun fact: Most domesticated pups can crank their engines up to 32 km per hour when running full speed. Incidentally letting your dog run around regularly can reduce his stress level and risk of ulcers (as well as many other problems).

Some companies advertise their oral pills and liquids as a viable solution for canine diabetes. Don’t fall for it. Not only will your wallet suffer, your dog won’t be getting proper treatment and could become even more ill. Insulin injections are the only way to make sure your pup lives happily with diabetes.

choice regardless of the source of the seizures.

Okay, what about diabetes? What, they give themselves little insulin shots every day?

No, smartypants, but their owners do. Diabetes is relatively common in dogs, especially those that are

older and have been overweight for much of their lives (see, just

like humans). Females are at a far greater risk than males, and

smaller breeds are more prone to the disease than larger dogs.

During diabetes, cells can’t use the glucose it needs for energy

because the body’s insulin isn’t working properly. This means

that the dog’s appetite for both food and water go into overdrive.

She’ll also need to pee more frequently, she’ll stop running

around as much but will actually lose weight, and she may develop eye problems.

The three types of diabetes are as follows:

• Type 1: lack of insulin

• Type 2: sufficient insulin is present, but the body can’t use it

• Type 3: the result of overmedication for a different condition

Most dogs don’t act normally when going through diabetes, so you should have sufficient warning to

get your pup to the vet. Once there, she’ll undergo blood and urine tests for a proper diagnosis. If the

vet is sure it’s diabetes, her therapy will be much like any human diabetic’s. Her diet will need to be

adjusted to be higher in fiber, she’ll need insulin shots daily, and she may need surgery to correct any

cataract or eye problems she develops as a result of the diabetes.

What happens when my dog gets an ulcer?

Ulcers are actually somewhat common in dogs, as they can be caused from overuse of various

medications. If your pup has had another terminal condition, she

may be prone to developing a stomach ulcer. They can also be

caused by stress and allergies.

One of the primary indicators of stomach ulcers is intermittent

vomiting, but the vomit is often marked by the presence of blood. Yummy, huh? Blood can also make

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Quick tip: Try playing music while you’re away to help calm your dog. There are tons of doggie-specific compilations available in music stores, many of which can help soothe nerves and ease the anxiety your pooch may feel when separated from you.

Ulcers are also fairly common in dogs’ eyes and are called corneal ulcers. You can read more about possible cornea problems and correct corneal care later in the book.

their stools a very dark brown or black. If you notice one of these signs combined with a sense of

depression and/or weight loss, chances are good that your pooch is suffering from an ulcer. Your vet

can confirm this with an X-ray, ultrasound, or even a procedure in which a camera is passed into the

stomach.

Once an ulcer is diagnosed, the hard work begins. The cause of the ulcer has to be isolated and

eliminated – this can be fairly difficult if the primary cause is stress and your dog is naturally high

strung. Some veterinarians will encourage you to use the same

medications approved to guard human’s stomachs against excess acid

caused by stress, and these can be very effective in helping treat both

the ulcer and the stress. You’ll find that many supposedly high-strung

dogs calm down substantially when their stomach and body aren’t

causing them quite as much distress. If your pooch has developed

anemia because of the ulcer, she may have to undergo blood replacement and medication to help repair

the stomach tissue.

Nearly all ulcers are treated with some combination of medications. Don’t be overly concerned if your

veterinarian prescribes two or three different meds for your dog, as some help repair the stomach tissue,

some reduce the acid in the stomach, and still others protect and cushion the stomach lining against any

irritants so the other medications can work more effectively. Unfortunately, it’s nearly impossible for

your vet to be able to predict how long you’ll have to keep your pup

on the meds. He or she will probably ask you to bring your dog back

in for regular ultrasounds or X-rays to check on the progress of the

medication’ effects, and you’ll have to continue giving your dog the

meds until the vet gives you the okay to stop.

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Any dog with a large build should be in a home where risks of bloat are at a minimum, but some breeds are at greater risk than others. A few of these include:

• Dobermans • Great Danes • Irish Setters and

Wolfhounds • Mastiffs • Standard Poodles • Weimaraners

You keep talking about bloat and how it’s such a problem in big dogs. I have a Mastiff – what the heck

is bloat and why should I be worried about it?

Bloat may sound like a once-monthly problem

women deal with, but the condition is fairly

different in dogs. Rather than being simply

uncomfortable, bloat in dogs can be deadly.

It’s actually the combination of two conditions,

bloat itself (also called dilatation) and stomach

rotation (also called stomach torsion).

In essence, bloat is the presence of a huge

bubble of air in the body. It keeps food from

getting in or out of the stomach. The entire

torso swells, and the dog drools, gags, and wander listlessly. If untreated, shock develops. If you have

even the slightest concern that your dog has bloat, get to the vet or an emergency clinic immediately.

This is a life-threatening condition in which moments can literally mean the difference between life and

death.

The veterinarian will confirm the condition with an X-ray and try

to run a tube down the esophagus to reduce the pressure on your

pup’s stomach. If this is unsuccessful, he or she will use a large

needle inserted directly into the stomach for a quicker means of

removing air. The vet may also use intravenous drugs and anti-

inflammatory medications to cut down on the risk of lasting

damage to the tissues surrounding the abdomen, and immediate

surgery to rotate the stomach back into its normal position is nearly

always necessary. Your dog’s spleen may also be removed.

Bloat is not a condition that discriminates between overweight and healthy dogs. Big, barrel-chested

dogs may be great to hug, but owners have an additional responsibility when it comes to preventing this

extremely painful and often fatal condition. First, place your dog’s food dish on an elevated platform.

This not only makes it easier on her joints, it means she’s bobbing up and down less and likely inhaling

less air. Second, restrict her from drinking an hour before and after a meal or strenuous workout and

Breeds like mastiffs, who have large builds and barrel chests, are at a higher risk for bloat than other dogs.

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Fun fact: While our eyes are built to detect both color and light, dogs have a greater need to see light than color. Their eyes contain more rods (the light detection pieces of the eye) than cones (the color detectors) to allow them to see fairly well even in darkness.

Fun fact: In addition to their night vision, dogs also have bigger pupils than people. This helps them track moving objects for longer distances without having to move their heads.

Don’t be too worried about your pooch’s lower eyelid drooping down to show his third eyelid. Many breeds (like Basset hounds) have a natural tendency toward the droopy-eyed look, and that can be exaggerated when tired or not feeling well. If you do your best to make sure nothing gets in his eye, he should be fine.

always restrict her from drinking large quantities of water. Finally, don’t allow her to roll around for at

least two hours after eating. If she needs her back scratched, give her the luxury of doing it for her.

What kinds of problems can my dog have with her eyes?

Good question! An odd phenomena in many dogs today is that their eyes are much larger than those of

their wolf ancestors. Why? Because we like them that way. People find big, open, honest eyes

aesthetically appealing, so dogs have been bred to encourage larger eyes. This means that many of

today’s most popular breeds are at extra risk for eye problems,

whether minor infections or complete blindness.

You should be checking your dog’s eyes for problems at least once a

week (and that “at least” is key, since you should really be doing it

several times weekly). If she has some gooey material, try to remove

it immediately with a soft, damp cloth. Crustier eye boogers can be softened with a cloth soaked in

warm water, then similarly wiped away. Keep an eye (get it? Eye?) on the color of the discharge,

though. If it’s consistently yellow or greenish in color, she may have

an eye infection.

Unlike humans, dogs have three eyelids. While it’s completely

normal for it to jut out further in certain breeds, in others it can

indicate neurological problems. A simple phone call to your vet

should let you know whether or not you need to worry about this.

Cloudiness in the iris and pupil can often indicate corneal damage and should be addressed as soon as

possible. Conditions like sties are fairly common in dogs and appear almost exactly as they do in

humans – a reddish, swollen area along one of the rims of the eyelids. You can help your pup feel more

comfortable until you get to the vet by applying a warm, damp cloth to her eye for five-minute periods.

Your vet will most likely prescribe a cream to be applied directly to

the sty.

Pink eye (also called conjunctivitis) is even more common and

comes in several flavors. At its simplest, conjunctivitis is an

inflammation of the mucous membrane that protects the eye. It can be caused by an eyelash or hair

falling into the eye and developing an infection or bacteria and viruses that can affect both eyes. In

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Quick tip: Some dogs get dry eye when they’re tired or just after a long car ride with his head out the window (go figure). You can use people-approved fake tear solutions to help in these situations, but make sure you see a vet if the dry eye becomes chronic.

nearly all cases, the eye will be bloodshot, discharge from the eye will be yellow or greenish, and the

eye will develop a crusty look. The three main types of pink eye are:

• In bacterial/fungal conjunctivitis, a foreign body or injury has caused an inflammation and, if

not removed, can grow bacteria and fungus in the eye at an accelerated pace. This causes a

subsequent infection. Your vet will probably use an eye wash to try and flush out the cause of

the infection and may

prescribe accompanying

medication.

• Parasitic conjunctivitis is

caused by the invasion of the

eye by a parasitic worm.

Your vet will be able to see

the worm during an eye

exam, so after numbing the

area with anesthetic he or she

should be able to extract it

easily. If not, a special

antiparasitic eye wash can be

used to kill the worm and

stop the infection.

• Viral conjunctivitis is caused by the same viruses that cause distemper and hepatitis. The

primary symptom of this type of conjunctivitis is an extremely dry eye or difficulty producing

tears, so your vet will suggest the consistent application of a saline wash to help keep the eyes

moist until the virus has run its course.

Two opposite eye conditions that tend to vary according to breed are

watery eye and dry eye. While the symptoms are pretty self-

explanatory, the causes can be different. Watery eye can be traced to

anything from a foreign object in the eye to complex conditions

involving the third eyelid or glaucoma. Some dogs are simply born

with narrow tear ducts. Your vet will be able to determine the cause

and corresponding treatment. On the other hand, dry eye is typically caused by inherited disorders or

Having a small amount of goop in the corner of the eye is normal, even for humans. If that goop continues to appear, changes color, or causes the eyelids to stick together, it’s time to see the vet.

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If your dog has long hair on its face, particularly around the eyes, either keep this hair cut short or secured away from its face. This will reduce the risk of any foreign bodies falling into the eye and causing an infection.

viral/bacterial infections. Because the eyes aren’t moistened by tears, conjunctivitis can form easily. If

the condition progresses without treatment, the eyes themselves become cloudy or produce pus and

ultimately the cornea can become damaged. Minor cases can often be treated with an eye-moistening

solution, while others may require surgery or more intense medication.

Because of their general happy-go-lucky and rough play demeanor, dogs have a tendency toward

corneal injury and scratches. While humans damage their corneas with contact lenses, fingernails,

and other objects close to their own bodies, dogs are closer to the ground and can experience corneal

damage from flying rocks, dirt, other dogs’ claws, and any number of other outside influences. You

probably won’t even realize that anything has happened at first, but a cloudy look will develop in the

eye over the course of a few weeks. Actual cuts on the eye can develop ulcers or infected areas

containing pus. Your dog will probably begin to squint and rub her eye a few hours after the injury

occurs.

Because corneal injury can be extremely minor or extensive, your

vet’s course of treatment will vary according to the degree of

damage. A fluorescent dye is dropped into the cornea to aid in

diagnosis. Because all of the dye is absorbed by the damaged areas,

the severity of the injury is almost immediately apparent. Dilating

the pupil with the same solution used by ophthalmologists helps relieve the pain of corneal damage in

some dogs, while others will require additional medication or anti-inflammatory meds.

Cataracts are caused by the clouding of proteins in the eye lens. This cloudiness makes vision difficult

or impossible depending upon the extent of the cataract. You’ll notice the whitish-yellow look of the

lens immediately, but, unfortunately, the damage will already be done. Cataracts are irreversible. In

pups who have become partially or completely blind, a veterinarian may suggest surgery; because the

surgery is somewhat intensive, it is only considered when the benefits strongly outweigh the negatives.

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The C-Word

coping with cancer in your canine companion

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Did You Know? Metastasis is the process that allows cancer to spread to various places in the body. A cancerous cell detaches from the tumor and travels through bodily fluid to a new location to form a tumor.

Dogs, unfortunately, are almost as susceptible to cancer as their human parents. While the gut reaction

upon hearing the c-word may be sadness, anger, and tears, there are many types of tumors and growths

that can now be treated successfully to allow your dog a long, happy life.

How can I keep my dog from getting cancer?

There is no one specific method of prevention when it comes to cancer. A very healthy dog with the

perfect diet, little stress, and regular exercise can suddenly develop a tumor or growth. Many

veterinarians do know, however, that the instances in which a healthy dog is afflicted are much rarer

than those in which an overweight, sedentary, or emotionally troubled dog develops cancer.

The best methods for prevention are those involved in a healthy lifestyle. Keep your pooch active, feed

him appropriately, make sure he drinks enough water on a daily basis, and try to rid his environment of

any unnecessary stressors. While it’s tempting to give your wallet a break by opting for clinic

vaccinations, try to find and stick with a veterinarian who is compatible with both you and your dog,

then have him examine your pup annually. This allows the vet to be familiar with your dog’s normal

appearance and personality and can help him detect problematic growths before they get too out of

control.

How does cancer develop?

Just as in people, cancerous tumors and growths develop when

something has happened to damage the genes in the body. This

means that anything from heredity to genetic damage in areas

that control viral processes; some breeds actually have cancer-

producing genes built into their anatomy. Other contributors are age, sunlight, poor diet, lack of

exercise, stress, and more. It’s difficult to pin down exactly what causes cancer in any given dog, but

the true cause stems from the fact that cancer cells trick the immune system into believing that the

cancer cells are its own normal cells. The immune system doesn’t destroy them as it does other

abnormal cells, which means they’re free to multiply and spread across the body. Benign tumors, those

that are not cancerous, grow very slowly, don’t spread, and only cause damage if they begin to block

necessary processes in the body. Malignant tumors, growths that are cancerous, can spread via blood or

bodily fluid, grow very quickly, and often invade multiple areas of the body if not treated successfully.

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Can I tell if my dog has cancer?

You can definitely detect any growths or abnormalities from some strains of cancer, but a definite

diagnosis should be made by your veterinarian. If you notice lumps, lesions, or unusual patches of skin,

tell your vet immediately. He or she can use x-rays, ultrasounds, MRIs, biopsies, or even cell samples

to determine the type and extent of the cancer.

Also pay close attention to any changes in behavior. Listed below are some of the most common

indicators of cancer – while they may not seem as harmful individually, the presence of one or more

should mean an immediate trip to the vet.

How will my vet treat my dog for cancer?

That depends upon the type and extent of the cancer. Benign tumors usually don’t require any

treatment, but your vet may recommend surgical removal to prevent them from interfering with any

bodily systems. Malignant tumors can be treated in a number of ways, many similar in method to the

treatment of cancer in humans.

Malignant tumors can sometimes be cured, but other times may, unfortunately, leave you and your vet

with limited options for treatment. The main treatments for both curable and incurable tumors are

surgery, radiation therapy, chemotherapy, and immunotherapy. A more detailed explanation of each is

listed in the table below and your vet may recommend one or more of these options, but more advanced

cases may require the use of either pain control or euthanasia. This is one of a pet owner’s most

difficult moments, and while a vet can help your decision by making his or her recommendation, it is

ultimately your responsibility to decide what is best for your friend.

Possible Indicators of Cancer Unusual swelling with no sign of reduction

Weight loss Loss of appetite Lack of energy

Discharge from bodily openings Sores that refuse to heal

Trouble urinating or defecating

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Treatment Explanation

Surgery The most effective – and most popular – way of removing tumors.

This involves removing the tumor, a healthy section of tissue

around it, and sometimes local lymph nodes.

Chemotherapy Drugs are used to kill cells of certain types that multiply quickly.

As in humans, this type of treatment can have adverse effects on

your dog’s overall health and is therefore only used when a vet is

fairly certain of its effectiveness.

Radiation Therapy If a tumor is not able to be removed surgically, and is radiation

sensitive, your vet may use local radiation to cure or reduce the

tumor.

Immunotherapy This therapy is a kind of jump start for your dog’s immune

system. Rather than forcibly removing or attacking the tumor

externally, immunotherapy triggers the dog’s immune system to

attack it on its own.

What are some of the different kinds of cancer?

You’ve probably heard of several types of cancer – the names typically end in “oma,” some of the most

common being sarcoma, melanoma, and carcinoma. To help your vet in detecting and fighting cancer,

make a habit of running your hands over your dog with the intent to find any abnormalities that weren’t

present before. Once you’re familiar

with how your pooch feels on a usual

day, it’ll be much easier to detect

things that are unusual both on and

below the skin.

Lipomas are growths comprised of fat

cells and are both benign and painless

for your dog. Lipomas form under the

skin and grow continuously, Lack of energy is one of the primary indicators of cancer

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Helpful hint: If your dog begins running into doors or seems to lose depth perception, he may have a neurological or brain tumor. The quicker you get him to the vet, the better the prognosis can be.

sometimes reaching large sizes. Your vet may want to perform a biopsy to be certain the growth hasn’t

developed into the malignant (but very rare) liposarcoma, but he will probably only want to remove

benign growths if they are somehow interfering with your dog’s quality of life.

Melanomas are usually benign and are typically dark lumps on the skin accompanied by a light crust. If

you detect what you think may be a melanoma near the nail bed or in your pup’s mouth, it’s time to see

the vet as these locations can indicate malignant melanomas.

Papillomas are also benign. These appear as small pink warts, usually with the cauliflower appearance

typical in standard warts. While large areas may develop at once and look somewhat icky, you only

need to worry if the area starts bleeding or becomes infected.

Papillomas typically disappear on their own.

Osteosarcomas are painful tumors that develop in older dogs’

legs, jaw, or ribs. You may notice your dog yelps or becomes

upset when you place pressure on a certain area of his body. If

so, a vet can determine whether or not it truly is a tumor through

an X-ray. The treatment is typically amputation above the

affected portion.

Sarcomas are malignant tumors in the soft tissue of your dog’s

body and usually include a prefix that indicates the location

(fibrosarcomas form in the fibrous connective tissue, lymphosarcomas in the lymphatic tissue). These

tumors often require several methods of examination before diagnosis and are nearly always removed

surgically.

Prostate tumors are rare in older dogs who have not been

neutered, while those who are neutered are at a far greater risk for

prostate cancer (but a much lower risk for prostate enlargement).

These tumors can be both benign and malignant and are difficult

to detect without a full examination. Malignant tumors require removal of the prostate gland.

Canine Cancer Online

There are a large number of websites and online communities dedicated to helping fellow owners of dogs with cancer. Do a quick search to find support groups in your area, or start at one of the sites below:

VetInfo: www.vetinfo.com/dogcancer.html

About.com Veterinary Medicine: vetmedicine.about.com

Dogs In the News: www.dogsinthenews.com

CancerLinks Pet Page: http://www.cancerlinks.com/animals_veterinary.html

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Mammary tumors most commonly occur in unspayed, older females, and they occur in multiple

instances near the dog’s teats. They can be either benign or malignant, but most are painless. You can

typically feel these tumors just under the skin of your female, so if you detect a small, harder area of

tissue, get your pup to the vet. Treatments for breast cancer can vary according to severity.

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Chicken Soup for the Poochy Soul

taking care of your dog when she’s not feeling well

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Helpful hint: Dogs love having their own space as it closely mirrors their wild wolf roots’ need for a den. If your dog is crate-trained, he may begin spending more time in his crate when sick. If he doesn’t have a crate, try to emulate the feel of a den for him by giving him an area that’s all his own.

Dog owners can be pretty neurotic. Now, before you get all upset and indignant, think about it. Do you

consider your pooch part of your family? Of course. Do you want only the best for him? Of course! Do

you bathe him, feed him, and pamper him like one of your children? Of course. See? It’s not such a bad

thing to be neurotic about your dog, it just means you

care. In some cases, however, that neurotic nature can

mean preemptive trips to the veterinarian and

overmedication. Your dog has an amazing body with an

amazing ability to heal itself without any outside help.

Once in a while, it’s a good idea to give your dog’s body

that chance to strengthen its immune system and work

things out on its own. You can help, of course, and if your

pup ends up needing more intensive treatment you can

help that along, too. All it takes is some basic knowledge.

My dog seems a little more out of it than usual, but he’s

still pretty active and seems to be generally fine. I should

get him to the vet right away, shouldn’t I? I mean, there

has to be something wrong.

Didn’t you read the first paragraph? Sheesh! Yes, there’s

probably something wrong. Whoa there, Speed Racer, put

down the car keys! Do you go to the doctor every time you sneeze or sniffle? No. A dog’s immune

system will be completely incapable of beating any illness if it’s overwhelmed by drugs every time

there’s a little problem. Your dog may have picked up a little virus or problematic bacteria somewhere

along the way, and now his immune system is doing battle to try and get rid of it. Because his insides

are working overtime, he’s probably just feeling more tired and somewhat slower than usual. This is

normal. His body needs to divert all of the energy it can to the

immune system.

You can help by – no, not by going to the vet. You’re not paying

attention at all, are you? You can help by setting up a nice

nursing area for him. Bring his bed closer to the family’s areas of

activity so he can feel closer to the people he loves and pick up

on some of their good energy. If he doesn’t already have a big, cushy bed, make a big pile of some old

Temperatures

Just as in babies and adult humans, taking temperatures is a vital part of detecting the severity of a dog’s illness. Unfortunately, it’s not quite as easy as placing it under his tongue or arm – dogs’ temps have to be taken rectally. First, use a rectal thermometer. Don’t grab your old oral thermometer from the medicine cabinet (um, ew). Oral thermometers can break off when used rectally. Smear petroleum jelly over the end of the thermometer. To make this as easy as possible for both you and pooch, get an assistant and have them hold the dog on a table or elevated surface. The assistant can also hold the tail out of the way if it’s overly fluffy or furry. Now insert the thermometer using a slight twisting motion until it is halfway into the rectum. Reassure and pet your dog for at least 90 seconds while the thermometer is inside, then remove and wipe before reading. A normal temperature should not be over 39 degrees (103 F).

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Quick tip: If you’ve noticed that your dog’s water intake is going down, fill a sport or bike bottle with water. After popping the top, place it inside your dog’s cheek and squirt in a little at a time to keep his hydration level up.

pillows, blankets, and sheets for his bedtime. Keep track of how much water he’s drinking and keep

that level up, but also make sure he’s getting a good, brisk 15-minute

walk each day to help keep his body strong. Of course, the easiest

way to help him feel better is to sit with him, stroke his head, talk to

him, and let him know you love him.

If he’s not feeling better after a couple of days, then you can be as

neurotic as you want and get him to the vet to eliminate more severe causes of his fatigue.

My vet wants me to give my dog medicine every day. How am I supposed to get him to take it?

Some dogs are easy to convince when it comes to medication. If you have a natural born chowhound, a

piece of lunchmeat or cheese wrapped around a pill can go down without a second thought. Liquid

medicine can be mixed right into his food – if he picks up on that trick, try mixing it with peanut butter

and spreading it on bread. Nobody can resist a peanut butter sandwich!

In the most drastic (or stubborn) situations, you may have to get your dog to swallow the pill itself.

This is never fun. Have your dog sit with its back against the wall or another person’s legs. Use your

fingers to pry the jaw open, then place the pill as far back in the mouth as possible. Close his mouth

and tilt his head up at a slight angle. Using one hand to hold his mouth closed, use your other hand to

stroke his throat. If he hasn’t yet swallowed, try

blowing directly on his nose and watch for signs that

he has swallowed.

For liquid medication, ask your vet for a needleless

syringe. You can place the right amount of medicine

directly into the syringe, then place the syringe into

the mouth and between the teeth. Don’t worry about

getting it to the back of the throat as with pills. Squirt

the medicine in, hold his mouth closed, and make sure

he swallows. You’re done!

The unlucky dogs who need injections have equally

When sick, your pup may want to sleep on or under blankets, pillows, and other “people” things he doesn’t normally use. This is okay – chances are that the items smell like you, so they comfort him. If they’re washable and not your best linen, you might want to indulge him.

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Quick tip: If your pup’s nose seems to be perpetually dry after surgery, monitor his water intake and soak a cloth in tepid water. Lay it over his nose for a few minutes (making sure he can breathe, of course). This can help perk him up right away!

unlucky owners. Nobody likes needles, and even fewer people want to use a needle on their precious

pooch. Your veterinarian should be able to give you a quick demonstration of how to handle injections,

but here’s a quick rundown:

• Use the syringe to pick up the required amount of medicine.

• Hold the syringe needle up and tap on the side to help any air bubbles travel to the surface.

• Depress the syringe plunger until the air bubbles

are no longer present in the barrel and a small

amount of medicine comes out of the needle.

• Use your non-dominant hand to gather a fold of

skin covering the shoulder blades.

• Insert the syringe, making sure you don’t run into

much resistance. This should mean the needle is

positioned between the skin and the muscle.

• Pull the plunger back slightly and check for blood

in the barrel of the syringe. If you see blood, this

means you’ve hit a vessel and need to reposition the needle. Pull the needle out and reinsert it.

• Once you’re certain there’s no blood present in the syringe, press the plunger and administer the

meds.

See? That wasn’t so bad. Remember, pups who go through daily injections deserve some recognition.

Talk to your dog the entire time and let him know what a good boy he is even if he’s squirming, then

give him a treat when he’s finished.

My dog just went through surgery. What can I expect while he’s getting better?

Lots and lots of sleep. Your pup won’t feel like doing much besides laying around during his post-

operative recovery period, so do your best to be patient and tolerant of any accidents that might occur

during this phase. Try to make a special effort to pet him regularly and talk to him as this can get his

spirits up and help him recover more quickly. While a little

licking is certain to occur, let your vet know if it gets out of

hand. Too much licking can loosen or remove stitches and cause

infection, so your veterinarian may want to use a surgical collar

(the plastic doohickey that looks like a satellite dish) to keep it

Squeezing a small amount of medication out of the syringe’s needle helps ensure that no air will enter your dog’s veins.

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under control.

The other important element is nutrition and hydration. Your vet can give you a more exact amount of

food and water your dog will need during his recovery and it’s your job to make sure he gets it. Ice

cubes can make a great substitute for dogs who balk at water. If you can’t convince him to eat, ask your

vet for some suggestions. Pups’ bodies need the right nutrients to stay strong, and this is especially

important after surgery.

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PUPPIES?!?! I LOVE PUPPIES!

getting over the cuteness and learning to deal

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Fun fact: The most popular name for new dogs is Max.

You may consider yourself a pro with dog training, feeding, and health, but even the best dog expert

can be brought to tears from a special group of canines… puppies. These tornadoes in adorable, sweet,

kissable, fuzzy little packages can take a happy, clean home and turn it into a house of horrors to rival

the best carnival’s. From their tiny little knives of teeth to their complete lack of comprehension of the

word “No,” puppies are trouble. Yet one look into that open, innocent little face and those big, loving

eyes that consider you a god and you’re hooked. It’s an addiction, but there’s really no cure besides a

good education in all things puppy-related. So put on that thinking cap, because you’ll need it when

they get you in their furry clutches… and then breathe on you with that puppy breath.

How should I choose a puppy?

The first step, obviously, is choosing

the right breed for you, your family,

and your environment. You may want

to visit the pound or rescue shelters to

look for mixed-breed pups who have

been brought in off the street – mixed-

breed dogs can make some of the most

intelligent and well-behaved pets

you’ll ever find. If you decide to go

with a purebred, you need to figure out

which breed will work best for you.

This is a common sense decision, but it

should be backed by a fair amount of

research. Don’t get a high-energy

puppy if you’re living in an apartment and know you won’t take it for more than three walks a day.

How do you know which breeds are high energy? Get to the library! Get online! Go to the bookstore!

Talk to people! There are a vast number of ways you can do the

research to figure out which breed is best for you, just don’t go into

puppy ownership without doing that research.

Once you’ve done that (seriously, do it), your next step is to choose whether to go through a breeder or

a local rescue group who can help you find homeless or rescued puppies of the breed you want. The

second option often has a much longer waiting period, but you’ll be helping an at-risk little munchkin

There’s nothing cuter than a litter of puppies, but you can learn a lot about which pup will best fit your needs simply by how they interact with one another.

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Quick tip: Be wary of any breeder who says he or she treats puppies of breeds like Dobermans, Rottweilers, and Pit bulls differently so that they may be later used as guard dogs. Puppies should be treated similarly regardless of breed – purpose-specific training should never occur before a puppy reaches two months.

who needs some love. If you’d rather have a shorter

turnaround time for your pup, you have another round of

research on your hands. Quit groaning! Do you want a

healthy puppy or not? To find a good breeder, do a quick

search for groups of enthusiasts or owners of the breed

you’d like. If you find a few, you should be able to

contact them and get a list of preferred breeders or

kennels in your area. These breeders are usually very

meticulous about making sure none of their dogs carry the negative traits, disorders, or diseases

associated with the breed, which means your puppy stands a much better chance of being healthy

throughout life. While their prices may run slightly higher than other breeders, the extra cost is

worthwhile. Would you rather your puppy were in the care of someone who had only birthed and cared

for one other litter, or someone who has been breeding for decades?

After you’ve selected both a breed and breeder, you’ll have the fun of visiting the litter and deciding

which pup will come home with you. You probably don’t want the most rambunctious one in the litter,

but you also don’t want a dog who is too submissive and has trouble socializing with other dogs. How

can you tell which is which? A quick and easy test is to pick up each puppy individually and cradle

them in your arms like a baby. The pup that squirms the most is the dominant (or alpha) puppy in the

litter. Cross him or her off the list. Likewise, cross off the pup who allows you to hold him in that

position without any struggle at all – he is the most submissive puppy in the pack. While

submissiveness may seem like a positive trait in a dog, it actually ends up resurfacing in many negative

behaviors and can prove an even greater detriment than dominance.

If at all possible, take each puppy away from the litter into a

quieter, secluded spot and interact with them on an individual

basis. This will give you the best feel for each of their

personalities and provide you with more information to make

your decision. In addition, this will give you the opportunity to

more closely inspect the pups and make sure they look, sound,

and feel healthy before you take one home. Pay close attention to the following aspects:

• Eyes: They should be bright and clear with no weepy discharge from the corners

Socialization

A good breeder begins socializing puppies when they’re born in order to get them accustomed to human contact as well as all of the normal sounds surrounding humans – vacuums, telephones, cars, etc. Because a breeder has the puppy for at least six weeks after birth, he or she will continually introduce the puppy to newer and more complex experience to get the puppy ready for your home and atmosphere.

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Quick tip: Try to find a puppy kindergarten class in your area as soon as possible after adopting your new baby. These classes are not only great for training, they create a bond between you and your puppy and can help your pup get used to other people and dogs.

• Ears: Floppy-eared puppies should still have very clean, shiny inner ear areas. There should be

no excess wax or black material in the ear.

• Nose: Ideally, it should be cool and wet to the touch. If the pup has just gotten up from a nap,

his nose may be dry. If you notice no other signs of illness but the dry nose and he interacts well

with you, you’re probably safe.

• Coat: His fur should be silky, shiny, and well-maintained. No puppy available from a breeder

should have a matted or tangled coat – this would indicate lack of proper care on the breeder’s

behalf and you should be very cautious.

Once you’ve made your selection, schedule a pick-up date with the breeder. In the meantime, ask for

the puppy’s shot records and any other health treatment

he’s been given, then take the information to your vet so

they can begin assembling a chart for your new family

member. You should try to take the puppy to your

veterinarian as soon as possible after bringing him home.

A general check-up and exam can help detect any illness

or conditions you may not have detected and, if necessary, can give you enough time to return the

puppy to the breeder.

What should my puppy eat?

What he should eat and what he will eat are two very different topics, but you can do your best to try

and regulate it. If you’re getting a puppy from a breeder, he’s probably between six and eight weeks

old. This means that the breeder has done the hard work in getting your pup through breastfeeding as

well as weaning him from milk and starting him on more grown-up food. Be certain to ask whoever has

been caring for your puppy, whether a breeder or a shelter, what type of food he or she has been giving

the puppy. If possible, try to stick to the same brand and type. For the first week or two, you can also

stick to the same feeding schedule and amount to keep the disruption in your puppy’s life at a

minimum.

Some new owners think the best approach to feeding a puppy is

the open salad bar approach, in which the owner leaves a

constantly full bowl of food on the floor and the pup is allowed

Vaccination

Puppies should never be vaccinated before eight weeks of age. While your breeder may deworm the pups and treat them for other possible conditions, no vaccines should be administered before you pick them up.

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Quick tip: Many training schools now offer in-home training or “doggie camps.” During the first, your trainer will help you and your puppy figure out what’s happening to cause specific problems (like furniture eating). The second is a kind of sleepaway camp for your puppy – he’ll undergo intensive training for 10 days, then you’ll attend and learn how to keep up the training for the last few days before graduation.

to eat as much as he wants whenever he wants. There are two problems with this. First, it teaches your

puppy that if he cleans out a bowl, you’ll jump to refill it. In other words, you’re at his beck and call.

Second, remember the obesity section? Dogs eat to survive, so your puppy will gorge himself on that

bowl of food like there’s no tomorrow. His food intake should be strictly controlled through regular

feedings, and puppy tummies are too small to handle all of their food at once. Try splitting his feedings

into at least two sessions daily. If you notice that he’s easily eating the whole bowl and still seeming

hungry, increase his food by a small amount (preferably ¼ cup) each day until you get to what you feel

is a good quantity.

You really can’t beat dry puppy food for the

best overall health benefits. Not only does it

provide all of the nutrients your baby needs

to build bones, muscle, and a healthy body,

its crunchy texture is perfect for cleaning his

teeth. If you already have an older dog in the

house, you may be tempted to just feed your

puppy smaller portions of regular dog food.

Don’t. Puppy food is specially formulated

for growing bodies and gives your new

family member the best start possible.

He ate my $10,000 sofa! What am I supposed to do with this dog?

Right now, nothing. You’re too emotionally charged to correctly handle the situation. Step away for 10

minutes, then come back.

There, are you feeling better? Okay, first question: why would

you ever consider leaving your puppy alone with a $10,000 sofa?

Or even a $2,000 sofa? Puppies chew. It’s their job. They use

their mouths for exploration, they have new teeth growing in, and

they chew. In all likelihood, you left the house for a few hours

and your pup got bored. To avoid future situations like this, find

some suitable toys to distract and entertain him while you’re

The chair’s in tact now, but just wait until you turn around… Learning to deal with your puppy’s penchant for destruction will help his overall health and wellbeing as well as your own stress level.

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Quick tip: This is a great time to use music. If your puppy has some soothing background sounds, he’ll be less stressed about his crate time. If you don’t have any CDs handy, flip on the TV so he can be comforted by the sound of human voices.

gone. Even better, start crate training your puppy. If he’s chewing, he probably also has some

housetraining problems. Both can be alleviated a bit by crate training.

Okay, Einstein, how am I supposed to crate train a puppy? He just screams every time I put him in

there.

He’s used to seeing you non-stop and having full

access to your home and all of your belongings. Now

you’re putting him in a cage and leaving the house.

Of course he’s screaming! One of the most important

elements of crate training is making sure your puppy

feels safe and happy in his crate. It should be his

home-inside-home, a special place just for him, but

also a place that doesn’t cut him off from you. To

help him make the adjustment to his new “den,” you can give him a few reminders of you.

Find a pad that fits the bottom of the crate and that will cushion him and give him a nice place to sleep

during the day. Now for the weird part. Place the pad in between your sheets while making your bed in

the morning. If you can handle it, sleep with the crate pad in your bed. When a week has passed, the

pad should have absorbed enough of your specific odor that it’ll remind your puppy of you even when

you’re not around. Place it in the bottom of his crate, along with some carefully selected toys (we’ll get

to those). To help him realize that the crate is a positive place, offer him a treat once he’s inside and

praise him lavishly. Don’t worry if he doesn’t eat the treat right away – he’ll probably eat it later, and

the important part is that he’s making the connection that the crate is a good, safe place.

Crate train in short spurts at first. Have your puppy stay in the crate for 15 minutes each night while

you’re home and visible. The next week, increase it to 30 minutes

while you’re in another room. Continue increasing it incrementally,

each time praising him when he both goes into the crate and when

he comes back out. If you work full-time and need an immediate

solution to puppy woes, you can try using the crate during the day,

but never leave him in the crate for longer than four hours at a time

or eight hours total in one day. Crates can also help facilitate housetraining, so keep reading.

Crate training

Crate training is full of challenges and issues, but it’s much easier to start when your dog is little than after he’s learned 3 years of bad habits. If you decide to encourage your dog to sleep in the crate, be prepared for a few nights of crying… but don’t give in. Stick with it and you’ll have a well-trained dog for life.

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Fun fact: 94% of dog owners say that their dog makes them smile at least once a day.

You said you were going to talk about toys. What about them?

Dogs love to play. Puppies love to play even more than their full-grown relatives, and you’ll soon

notice that a puppy can turn a tiny shred of paper on the ground into a full-blown adventure. Even so,

your pup should have some carefully selected toys in his crate and available to him at any time.

First rule: don’t get too many toys. Puppies can go into a

form of information overload if they have a herd of toys at

their disposal. Not only will they not have the time to

learn the skills each can teach them, they’ll learn that

anything on the floor is theirs. You leave your shoes and

clothing on the floor, don’t you? See, you’ll want to

prevent that. Second rule: don’t use old shoes or other

clothing as dog toys. Think about that. You don’t want your pup chewing up your shoes, yet you give

him an old shoe for play time. It’s a little confusing. Third rule: no tug of war. Dogs love this game,

but they love it for all the wrong reasons when it comes to relating with their masters. If your puppy

wins tug of war (whether you let him or not), it teaches him that he can defeat you and is therefore the

dominant dog in the pact. Fourth rule: check toys for small or moving parts like bells and music chips.

What if your pup gets really bored and decides to dissect his toy while you’re gone? Those bells are the

perfect size to be swallowed and stuck in his throat.

Just like babies, puppies love toys that stimulate several of

their senses. Try to find toys with rough, durable exteriors

that also have noisemakers and fun textures. Having a

decent variety of toys that can be constantly rotated – only

keeping two or three out and available to your pup at a time

– can help your puppy learn and expand his mind. Because

they keep your pooch entertained, they’re an important part

of crate training. Make sure your puppy has at least one toy

in the crate with him regardless of

the length of time he’ll be crated.

This encourages him to entertain

himself and not act out in boredom.

Toys like this one – with bright colors, easy to grip surfaces, and fun textures – paired with proper playtime techniques can help your puppy’s sense of discipline and mental capacity.

Toys and crates

Toys can help a great deal in crate training, as long as you use the right kind. No rawhide (the little bits can get lodged in his throat and choke him)! For the best option, find a hard rubber toy that can be filled – there are several varieties – and stuff it full of peanut butter or spray cheese. Not only does your pooch get a fun toy, he’ll spend hours licking the treat inside without a second of boredom!

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Quick tip: Puppy papers, available from your pet store, are popular with some pet owners. Unfortunately, they have a similar effect as training your pup on newspaper and can just stretch the training period out even further.

So what about housetraining? I’ve been trying for

weeks, but it doesn’t seem to be getting through.

Housetraining, like many other responsibilities of dog

ownership, is a matter of common sense. If you think

logically about the situation, you can probably figure

out on your own what’s best for your puppy. But we’ll

give you a head start to save you some time.

Many people start their puppies off on newspapers

since it’s the time-honored way of training a dog.

Unfortunately, it’s not the best way. Let’s think about

this – every time the dog starts to go to the bathroom

indoors, you carry him to an area of spread-out

newspapers and encourage him to go there. You even

go so far as to praise him for using the area. What are you teaching him? In his mind, the praise and

encouragement means that he should be using newspapers for his needs. Now, unless you don’t mind

having your Sunday paper stained in more ways than one every weekend, there are a few better ways

you can go about this.

The primary focus in housetraining should be timing. Your puppy will need to relieve himself at very

specific times throughout the day, including when he first wakes up, 30 minutes after drinking water,

60 minutes after a meal, and before bed. For ultimate accident avoidance, make sure he’s getting

outside at four-hour intervals. This should help you naturally catch the times at which he’s ready to

eliminate, which means that you get more opportunities to praise him for doing things properly than

you will to discipline him for accidents. Once you’re outside, consistently take him to the same spot

and wait for him to do his thing (housetraining involves a lot of waiting). Every time you arrive at the

spot, use a special key word or phrase, like “Do your business,” “Out,” or one of your choosing. Say

the word or phrase emphatically and in an upbeat voice. Hold

your ground… literally. Your puppy will want to explore his

surroundings, watch the butterfly flitting by, cock his head at the

birds, basically anything but what you want him to do. Be patient.

Continue using the phrase at 30-second intervals. When he finally

gets bored with the activities around him, he’ll get to work. As he eliminates, continue using the

Oops!

There are many reasons a dog may urinate inside besides not being properly trained.

• Urinary tract infection: Check the urine for an odd color and call the vet if you think this may be to blame.

• Pet store/puppy mill puppies: Here’s hoping you didn’t purchase your pup from one of these sources, but if you did – or if you adopted the dog from someone who did – then your pooch doesn’t have the same “won’t pee in my own bed” instinct as other dogs.

• Submissiveness: Your dog sees you as the king or queen of his life… letting go of his bladder is his way of showing you that.

Either of the second two conditions will mean that you’ll need to have some in-depth conversations with a trainer.

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phrase, but be even more positive about it. Praise him, pet him, and generally celebrate the event. Then

do it all over again in four hours.

Sound like fun? Didn’t think so. For extra help, try crate training. Once your puppy is accustomed to

the crate, he can stay in it for four hour periods. Take him out immediately after letting him out of the

crate. Because he won’t soil his sleeping spot, your regulation of his time will become much more

manageable very quickly.

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Back When I Was a Pup…

taking care of your older dog

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Quick tip: Just because he’s old doesn’t mean he doesn’t still enjoy the same hard, crunchy treats he always loved. Make sure his teeth are strong enough to take the bones, then feed away!

As you know – well, as you should know, and need to find out if you don’t – all puppies eventually

become grown-up dogs, then very grown-up dogs. Just like older humans, dealing with older dogs

carries with it a unique set of challenges, needs, and responsibilities.

So he’s got a few gray hairs! Don’t we all? What’s the big deal?

Just because your pooch doesn’t show you all of the

effects of his increasing age doesn’t mean they’re not

real. Dogs aim to please and would rather play than

nurse a sore limb, so why would you think they’d make

their pain in aging obvious? Many times, owners realize

that their dogs are suffering from the effects of aging

before the dogs themselves, particularly dogs that have

a very playful, rambunctious nature. Your pup doesn’t

really have a concept of time (ever wonder why he’s

just as happy to see you after an hour apart as he is when you’ve been gone for a week?), so he doesn’t

understand what’s happening to his body. He may be confused about the pains he’s feeling, and he’ll

look to you to help him deal with them.

Even though modern veterinary medicine can help your pooch live a much longer, healthier life than he

could have even 20 years ago, he’ll still eventually make it to the last few years of his life. While the

most obvious signs of aging occur on the outside – lighter fur on his snout, face, and throughout his

coat – there are many changes going on inside his body. Although you can’t see the changes

themselves, you’ll probably start to notice the symptoms. You may just notice that he’s slowed down a

bit, that his reflexes are a little more sluggish. He may stop eating quite as much but, mysteriously, he

still gains some weight. You call and call his name, but he won’t

pay attention unless you’re within five feet of him.

Then there are the symptoms that can trouble even the most stoic

dog owner. The eyes that once lit up and sparkled so much you

thought you could see them from miles away are now slower, dimmer, and maybe even cloudy. He

may run into walls and doors every now and then, and his teeth and breath are getting progressively

nastier. Maybe he’s started having accidents on the carpet or seems to forget that he’s not allowed in

certain rooms. Not a pretty picture, huh? Well, think about your older human friends and family. It’s

Aging Effects

Aging can affect everything from fur luster to severe internal problems. Some of these affects include:

• Dry skin • Extra smell (that dog smell X 10) • Differences in behavior • Quicker exhaustion • Sight problems • Hearing problems • Gum, teeth, and breath problems • Gas • Incontinence

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Fun fact: You can teach an old dog new tricks! As long as he’s not feeling too tired, your older dog has the same capacity to learn new training and behavior as he did when he was a puppy… and having been through it all once before helps make it even easier.

not fun to watch them get older, but it’s inevitable. The

important thing is to remember that this is your pup, he

doesn’t understand what’s happening to his body, and he

needs you.

What can I do? I’m not Father Time.

No, but you can certainly make the years you have left

with him more comfortable. Make it a priority to spend

more time with him. During that time, give him casual

examinations by running your hands over his coat and checking for lumps on and below his skin. If you

notice discharge from any area – particularly if it smells or has an odd texture – call your veterinarian

immediately. Check his joints routinely for swelling, as arthritis and other joint problems can make an

elderly dog feel even older. Unlike his younger years, your pooch won’t be able to recover as quickly

from illness and injury. This means you need to be quicker on the draw when contacting your vet, as

even the most severe problems can often be cured or improved if detected soon enough.

Keep his stress level at a minimum by reducing the level of outside activity and turmoil in his life.

Refrain from things that seem simple, like rearranging the furniture, as the extra commotion can turn up

his nerves and reduce the amount of good his immune system can do against outside invaders. If his

vision is deteriorating even a small amount, he can easily lose track of new furniture locations and

bump into more and more things as he walks around. If you suddenly started losing your vision, would

you want people changing the layout of your home without consulting with you? Probably not.

Because his energy level is lower, it may seem rational that his

activity level should reduce with it. This isn’t the case. Aging can

be slowed down substantially or made less painless by regular

exercise and good health. While he may not chase Frisbees or

cats like he used to, he’d still love daily brisk walks with his

owner. These can have a great effect on his overall health, too. Since they’ll keep his muscle tissue up,

his metabolism will increase and help burn off that extra fat. Regular exercise can also help alleviate

joint problems (as long as it’s not too strenuous). Just as with overweight dogs, swimming is a fantastic

workout option for the aging pooch. It’s low impact, fun, and burns a ton of calories. Don’t worry if he

seems to need to rest a bit longer after workouts, he’s just listening to his body.

Pet Insurance

Pet insurance has become more and more popular in recent years. But when should you invest? You can’t cover pre-existing conditions, older dogs usually can’t be enrolled… several studies have shown that, because of these factors, you’re actually better off saving the money you’d use for a premium each month in an account designated for pet expenses. This should be more than enough to cover annual check-ups and have some left over for emergencies.

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Quick tip: Simple hard plastic stepstools are perfect for elevating food dishes, and you can usually find them for very low prices at grocery and superstores.

Is there anything special I should do around the house to help him?

If he’s used to getting up and walking around at night, try to keep nightlights in his usual spots to help

him navigate the halls. His dexterity may start to wane, too, so adding non-slip pads to throw rugs and

reducing other risks of falls will help him feel less like an old dog and more like his old self.

If he’s used to sleeping in your bed, you may notice that he

no longer has the strength or energy to hop up as easily as

before. Some dogs adjust easily to this and find themselves

a new sleeping spot, while others try over and over to jump

into bed as though nothing were wrong. If you want him in

bed with you and can’t stand the thought of him sleeping

alone, invest in a small ramp or stepstool like those used for

elderly humans. If he seems to be fine sleeping on the floor next to your bed, you can find a wide array

of thick, orthopedic cushion beds specially made for older dogs or those with joint problems. These

reduce the risk of tripping as he gets in and out of bed, but they’re also super-comfy and will help his

joints feel better. Encourage him to use the new bed and praise him when he does. Soon enough, you

won’t be able to convince him to even try to get into your bed… he’ll prefer his!

Try to help him avoid stairs by moving his food, bed, or other necessities where possible. If you live in

a two-story home, your aging pup may start to prefer living entirely on the first floor but still want to be

a part of your lives. If this is the case, minimize the time he spends by himself by encouraging the

family to spend more time in areas he can easily navigate. Set his

bed up in the dining room so he can lay in comfort while still feeling

like a part of the family. If main areas of activity like TV rooms are

both upstairs and downstairs, make an effort to use those on the first

floor and pay special attention to him.

If he has joint problems or is a large-breed dog, place his food and water dishes on an elevated platform

rather than on the floor. This will reduce the number of times he has to bend down, meaning that his

joints will have less stress placed on them. It also reduces his risk of conditions like bloat.

Any breed-specific conditions become more frequent and exaggerated in older age. If you weren’t aware of your dog’s breed disorders and problems, now is the time to research them. You should be more aware of the symptoms and signs of the primary problems specific to your dog’s breed so they can be treated as quickly as possible.

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Helpful hint: Doggie diapers are available for elderly dogs with incontinence problems. Talk to your vet about whether or not it’s necessary and would help your dog.

This is getting really hard. He keeps peeing everywhere. What am I supposed to do?

There’s not much you can do. It’s not because he’s misbehaving or forgot how he was trained, it’s

because he can’t help it. This is again similar to what happens in humans – as they age, their bladders

become less and less effective. Lack of control is a common side effect. Believe it or not, this is

possibly more stressful for him than for you. While you have to clean up after him, he has to feel like

he’s disappointing his best friend, losing control of his own body, and

missing out on his usual routine all at the same time. To rule out any

infections, take him to the vet when his accidents first start occurring

so he can be tested for urinary tract problems.

You can help him feel better and help avoid accidents by taking him outside more frequently. If he

used to go on walks three times daily, try to double that. It may seem like a big commitment, but would

you rather be outside enjoying nature with your buddy or inside quietly fuming because you have to

clean the carpet yet again? Oh, and you really should be quietly fuming. Incontinence is not something

your pup does by choice, it’s a byproduct of the aging

process. Yelling and screaming at him will only make him

feel worse, increase his stress level, and help him age faster.

What about his food? Can he eat the same stuff he always

has?

Yes and no. There’s really no need to change your dog’s food

unless you notice extreme weight gain or loss, that it seems to hurt his teeth, or your vet says he needs

an extra amount of certain vitamins. But even if you don’t change his food, you’ll probably want to

invest in a monthly dose of vitamin supplements for aging dogs. Talk to your vet to find out which is

best for your dog, then make sure he gets one every morning. This should help his new nutritional

needs for the most part.

Again, going out for a daily brisk walk will even help your dog’s nutritional situation. If he seems to be

packing on the pounds, the walk can jumpstart his metabolism. If he’s shedding weight like there’s no

tomorrow, the walks can build his muscle mass and help him bulk up.

If it seems as though his hard food is hurting his teeth, talk with your vet about mixing dry and wet

food or feeding him exclusively wet food. This can help his tooth pain, but it also means that he won’t

Pre-packaged senior dog foods include a higher amount of the easily-digestible proteins your older pooch needs. They also contain antioxidants that can get rid of the elements in his body that cause aging. These foods are a great option to making sure your older dog gets the nutrition he needs while maintaining weight and energy.

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be getting the side benefit of having his teeth cleaned by his food. Your veterinarian can help adjust

your teeth-cleaning routine to accommodate this new need.

While there are many packaged dry foods for older dogs available on the market, they may not be

necessary for your pooch. The most important aspect of changing your older dog’s food is speaking

with his veterinarian. Don’t go by trial and error, since this can lead to serious side effects and

nutritional deficiencies in your pup. The vet will help you plot a more definite course toward improving

and fine-tuning your dog’s diet.

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That Doghouse in the Sky

coping with the death of your friend

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Quick tip: Talk with your vet about the aging process and life expectancy as soon as you can. This will help you ease into the concept and make it easier to accept that your friend won’t always be by your side.

You thought the C-Word was bad? Meet the word that most dog

owners don’t even want to admit exists: euthanasia. It’s the worst

of the worst for any dog owner, and even those with happy,

healthy pups can get teary just thinking about the prospect. It’s one

thing to have to say goodbye to your best buddy, it’s another thing

entirely to have to give someone permission to take his life. Most pet owners think they won’t be able

to make such a difficult decision, but many sources now show that euthanasia is the leading cause of

death in dogs – this would indicate that owners seriously underestimate themselves. Whether by

euthanasia or natural death, the passing of your pup is a difficult, emotional time for everyone in your

family. It’s important to have the facts to deal with it most effectively.

How long will my dog live?

That depends on the dog. The general rule of thumb is that smaller breeds live much longer than larger

ones, but the actual length of life varies from dog to dog. Larger dogs’ bodies – their hearts in

particular – have to work much harder to keep them going, which means they wear out a lot sooner

than their smaller counterparts’ bodies. This also means that two dogs of the same breed can have very

different life expectancies if one is much larger than the other.

Of course, the dog’s environment, nutrition, and care from her

owner factors heavily into her life expectancy. A dog who

lives a completely sedentary life with only minimal exercise

will not likely have a long life. A very small dog whose breed

life expectancy is over 10 years may live a far shorter life if

prone to nerves and anxiety.

My dog is really sick. What options do I have besides euthanasia?

You may not have any other options. It really depends on the situation. In certain cases, injuries and

damage from disease are too severe to make keeping your dog alive a humane option. In other

circumstances, your veterinarian may be able to effectively manage your dog’s pain through the use of

medication and therapy. In the best cases, this pain management will work effectively and last long

enough to allow your dog pass on naturally and with minimal pain.

You have a general idea of what will happen when your dog passes away, but what if you go before your dog? Speak with a friend or family member about adopting your pet if you pass on, or at least establish instructions for having a loved one take your dog to a specific rescue group or society. This will help you be sure your pooch will be well cared for even if you’re not around.

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Fast fact: “Euthanasia” comes from the Greek words “eu” and “thanatos,” which means “good death.”

As you’ll soon read, though, choosing one of these options is not to be done lightly. If your veterinarian

feels that euthanasia the best choice for your dog, listen to his reasons, voice your own concerns, and

try to come to a decision together.

How am I supposed to decide whether or not to euthanize my dog?

This is never a decision you should make on your own. The first person you consult should be your

veterinarian, who can let you know the pros and cons behind euthanization, pain management through

medication, and any other options he may see as suitable for your dog. Beyond that, you have some

deep thinking of your own – you’ll find a list of questions below that may help you make a more

rational decision. If you have other family members, they should be

involved in the decision-making process. In addition to being fair, this

can help them better cope with the death of their dog later.

Questions to Ask in Case of Severe Illness or Injury

Does the same illness keep recurring?

Has your dog’s illness gotten progressively worse?

Does your dog’s illness still respond to therapy or medication?

Is she suffering?

Does the vet have a way of relieving the suffering besides euthanasia?

If your dog survives its illness or injury, can you provide the time necessary to care for her?

Will caring for her cripple your family financially?

Use each of these questions as a means of opening discussion with your family members. Talk openly

about the illness or injury and what would be best for both your dog and your family. While you may

want nothing more than to have your pet back in your home, her comfort should be your top priority. If

keeping her alive means that she’ll remain in pain for the

rest of her life, you may decide that it will hurt you more to

see her suffer so much over time. If you believe your dog

has a decent chance at recovery but that her medical bills

will place you in a great deal of debt, consider the tension

and stress financial issues can cause between family members. Your dog can sense this tension and

take it on as her own, which means her health may ultimately suffer because you fought to keep her

alive.

Your veterinary clinic probably offers cremation as an option after euthanization. If you decide you don’t want to have your pet cremated, you can opt to bury her in a location of your choosing.

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Helpful hint: If you choose to bury your dog, wrap her in biodegradable materials like blankets or sheets, not plastic.

What can I do to make it easier on my dog and my family?

Grief is completely natural, especially when it comes to a beloved

family member. That’s what your dog is, right? Encourage your

children to cry if they need to, and don’t be ashamed to do so yourself. If you’ve made the decision to

euthanize your dog, your veterinarian may give you the option of going into the room and staying with

your dog during her last few moments. This is a decision that is completely up to you – some find it

helpful and comforting to hold their pets during the

procedure, others would rather remember their dog alive and

happy.

Whether your dog is passing away naturally or by

euthanization, there

are a few steps you

can take to make

things a little easier

to handle for all involved. Plan “Doggie Days Out,” for

which you can set aside a date and take your pooch to a

special place. It should be a day devoted entirely to her, so

bring all of her favorite toys, treats, and go to her favorite

park or nature trail. Take pictures of the whole family

together, and let every family member have some special

time alone with the pup. If possible, plan several of these and

make sure they’re fun, festive occasions, not somber ones.

Think of all of her favorite activities and make sure she gets

to do them at least one or two more times. If she always

loved riding in the car with her head out the window but

could no longer handle the hop into the front seat, have a

friend or family member help you lift her into the car. Even if

you just run a few short errands or drive aimlessly for 20 minutes, your dog will appreciate feeling like

her old self.

Some owners choose to have their dogs memorialized or buried at pet cemeteries. This option allows you and your family to “visit” with your pet as often as you’d like and continue to feel close to her after she has passed on.

Even if you decide to have your dog cremated, having a small memorial service for her can help your entire family through the grieving process, particularly small children. Have each person write a number of favorite memories or things they loved about your dog, then read them while lighting candles in her honor. Looking through photos from times throughout her life can help you laugh, smile, and remember the more positive things about her rather than focusing only on the fact that she’s gone.

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Helpful hint: Losing a pet can be extremely traumatic for many people. Because of this, greeting card companies have begun making sympathy cards for the death of a loved one’s pet. If you know someone who has lost a furry friend, the simple act of sending a card can help them feel validated in their grief and comforted by your thoughts.

She’s been an important member of your family, so try to make sure those last few weeks are as

carefree and happy as possible. If she’s become crankier or less cuddly during her illness, encourage

family members not to take any growls or lack of interest personally. She won’t understand what’s

happening with her body and doesn’t mean to hurt her loved ones’ feelings. These are the last times

you’ll get to play with her, so make them count. Let her

know exactly what she means to you and make that last

hug and kiss the best she’s had in her life.

What happens during euthanization? Does it hurt?

Euthanization is, very simply, an overdose of an

anesthetic. Because of the drug used (Phenobarbital), it is typically painless for the dog. The

Phenobarbital is administered using a small needle and directly through the vein. The dog will lose

consciousness within a few seconds and, after about 10 seconds, her heart will stop and her brain’s

activity will cease.

One of the more painful aspects of euthanasia for the owner is the fact that the electrical activity in the

body can continue for several minutes after death. Legs and some facial nerves can twitch while the

body triggers the lungs to take a reflexive gasp. After

ten minutes, this activity should stop.

I have another dog. Will he notice that our other dog

is gone?

Yes. He won’t understand why, of course, but he’ll

know that his buddy is no longer around and that his

habits have been disrupted. If your dogs were

particularly close, shared beds, food dishes, and the

like, then your dog may have a lot of trouble adjusting to the absence of his friend. Some dogs become

extremely depressed, others don’t seem to notice at all. If your dog has passed away naturally at home,

your other dog may want to sniff and “inspect” her body. Allow him to do so, as it’s part of a dog’s

natural instinct and may help him understand the other dog’s absence in the next few days.

It’s very tempting to go out and find another dog immediately after losing one. This impulse is

especially tempting when one of your other pets seems sad or depressed because his buddy is gone. If

Young children often have the most difficult time understanding why a dog they loved to play with is no longer around the house. This can be the perfect learning opportunity to teach children about death and any beliefs you and your family may have about the afterlife. Your local bookstore has plenty of children’s books available to help you help them understand. Here are a few to get you started: I Miss You, by Pat Thomas Sad Isn’t Bad, by Michaelene Mundy Help Me Say Goodbye, by Janis Silverman The Fall of Freddie the Leaf, by Leo Buscaglia

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you decide to get another dog, be absolutely certain that your entire family is ready for the new

member.

It’s equally tempting for some people to swear off ever owning another dog. This is completely natural

and will most likely subside once you’re through a decent period of mourning.

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ER – Doggie Style

chilling out and caring for your dog in emergencies

88

It’s impossible to keep your dog out of trouble. He’s adventurous, curious, and energetic. In other

words, he’s a recipe for trouble, but that’s why you love him. Rather than attempting the impossible,

keep yourself prepared for emergencies with a properly stocked first aid kit and knowledge about what

to do in the most common urgent situations.

What should I keep in a good first aid kit?

Before stocking a first aid kit for your pup, get a business card from your vet. On the back, write the

number of the closest 24-hour veterinary hospital. Keep the card in your wallet or bag at all times, and

it’s best if you can also keep one in each car. Also program the vet’s number into your cell phone.

While this may seem excessive, it ensures that you’ll be prepared at any place, any time if your dog is

injured outside your home. As for the first aid kit, keep at least one of each of the following on hand,

preferably in a large freezer bag:

Sterile gauze pads Tweezers

Adhesive tape Scissors

Antiseptic wipes Thermometer

Hydrogen peroxide Cotton balls

Antihistamine Hydrocortisone cream

Why a freezer bag? It’s an easy size, you don’t have to spend the extra cash on a fancy carrying case,

and it’s see-through. Quick treatment is important in an emergency, and being able to see into the first

aid kit without opening it can make a huge difference.

Dehydration

During a long day of Frisbee or fetch, your dog can get distracted and forget to hydrate himself. To

check whether or not your dog is dehydrated, grasp a handful of skin and let go. If the skin doesn’t

immediately fall back, he’s dehydrated. If it took more than a couple of seconds to return to its usual

position, get to the vet immediately. If it took 1-2 seconds – or your dog is older – have him drink

water ASAP and get out of the sun. Try the test again later, and see the vet if the timing hasn’t

improved.

Choking

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Fun fact: Think Aunt Millie’s leaving the estate to you? You might want to think again, since Aunt Millie may have made her dog one of the estimated million that are named as beneficiaries in wills.

Because dogs love to feel things in their mouths, choking can be a common – and fatal – hazard.

Beyond foreign objects, allergic reactions can make your dog’s throat swell to a point that he can’t

breathe.

If he’s unconscious, lay your dog on his side and place one

hand on his back and the other on his stomach just behind

his rib cage. Using the stomach hand, push in and toward

the throat twice, but without too much force. If you can see

a foreign object, sweep your fingers through his mouth to

remove it. If he’s still choking, place your mouth over his nose and exhale until his chest rises. Repeat

once, and then thrust two more times. Continue until he coughs out the obstruction.

If he’s conscious, back him into your legs or have someone restrain him. Check his mouth for an

obstruction and try to extract it with a spoon. If this fails and you can reach the obstruction, cautiously

use tweezers.

Severe bleeding

Find any clean cloth (but preferably the gauze from your first aid kit) and apply pressure for five

minutes. If the blood soaks through, add additional cloth. After five minutes, use a bandage or tape to

fasten the material to the wound. Don’t remove the original cloth or use hydrogen peroxide, as either

action can slow clotting.

Dislocated joints

If you notice your dog’s leg is suddenly jutting toward or away

from his body at an odd angle, he has probably dislocated the

joint. Take your dog to the vet, where the joint may be able to

be relocated manually. In worse injuries, surgery may be necessary. Regardless of treatment, your dog

should stick to easier activities for a fair amount of time to help his body recover.

Fractured limbs

After reading the skeletal section (you did read it, didn’t you?), you know that fractures can involve

bones protruding from the skin. If this is the case, cover the bone with a sterile bandage or cloth. Do

not try to clean or straighten the wound. If you have a small dog, use pencils or pens as a splint. For

Gravity is your friend: If your smaller dog is choking and is unconscious, try lifting him by the rear legs. Hold him firmly by the thighs and lightly shake him. This can help free any foreign objects from the throat with less trauma than thrusting with your hands.

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Did You Know? While scorpion stings can be extremely painful and create an area of irritation on your dog’s skin, they typically heal on their own without medical intervention. If your pup has been stung by more than one scorpion, you may still want to get him to the vet for an exam, especially if he’s smaller.

larger dogs, use rolled magazines or newspapers. Place them on either side of the bone, then roll cloth

or adhesive tape progressively up the splint material. While traveling to the vet, touch your pooch’s

toes every few minutes to be sure circulation is normal. If they get too cold, rewrap the splint material

more loosely.

Poisoning

The easiest way to treat poisoning is just make sure it never

happens. Keep chemicals out of reach, in a garage cabinet,

and locked away just as you would for a child. If your dog

does ingest a poisonous substance, it may cause vomiting or

seizures. In severe cases, internal bleeding and death can

occur. The safest method of home treatment for poisoning is

a call to your vet. Because some poisons can be more

damaging on their way back up than on the way down, vomiting should not be induced. Your

veterinarian can help treat your dog safely and effectively.

Spider and snake bites

Dogs love to play… and hunt. In one of their usual play sessions, your dog may run across a spider or

snake who thinks your pup is way heavier on the hunting than the playing. When it comes to spiders

like brown recluses and poisonous snakes, get to the vet immediately. The quicker he or she can

administer the antivenin, the better. Don’t wash the wounds or you run the risk of pushing the venom

further into the dog’s body, and don’t try to suck the poison from the wound. This just complicates the

bite and can end up poisoning you.

Shock

Shock can result from many other injuries and emergencies

and can develop when blood circulation stops and starves the

tissue of oxygen. If left without oxygen, shock can be fatal.

Press on your dog’s gums. If they are pale, white, or blue,

your dog has gone into shock. If he’s still conscious, he may have very shallow, fast breathing or feel

cool to the touch. Check for any bleeding or foreign objects in his throat. If you find either, follow the

instructions above. Wrap your pup in a blanket, raise his rear legs above his head to help encourage

blood flow to the brain, and get to the vet immediately.

Amphibian poisoning: Certain varieties of toads, salamanders, newts, and other amphibians are poisonous if licked or held in the mouth. Guess who loves to hold little woodland critters in his mouth? No, not your college roommate, your dog. If you notice your pup drooling, whining, and wiping at his mouth after a trip into the forest, get him to a clean water source and rinse his mouth thoroughly. While the poison can be fatal, it’s fairly easy to cleanse from the tongue and glands.

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Stay Out of the Doghouse!

Hopefully these brief forays into the canine world have helped you learn a little bit more about helping

your dog live a long, healthy life and how to deal with the not-so-healthy moments. If you haven’t

learned anything, well, maybe you fell asleep. You might want to check your keyboard – dried drool

can really do a number on the electronics.

Whether or not you’ve learned anything about your dog’s health and biology, hopefully this book has

been somewhat entertaining and allowed you to look at things from your pup’s perspective. The basics

are simple: nutrition, exercise, a veterinarian who is familiar with both you and your pup, and common

sense. Even if you don’t use them in your own everyday life, try to employ them in your dog’s. After

all, he doesn’t have control of his own health… you do. It’s a big responsibility, and one he trusted you

to uphold when he wagged his tail and begged you to bring him home. Don’t let him down.

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