Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

JANUARY 2011

Best

2010

The of

http://www.olympiamotosports.com

http://www/rider.com

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ PublishersContributors: Mark Byers, Jay Duchin, Ken Freund, Jamie Hansen, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2011. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific writtenconsent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ willonly return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be con-sidered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadwaystraversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

W H A T ’ S I N S I D EMONTHLY COLUMNS

FREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4

WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................6

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................7

ON THE MARK ..................................................................................8

BACKLASH .........................................................................................9

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD....................................................11

INDUSTRY INFOBITES...................................................................12

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA...............................................................14

BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................16

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................18

WE’RE OUTTA HERE .....................................................................20

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR...............................................37

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .......................................................43

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE ..................................................44

FEATURESBEST OF BACKROADS 2010.......................................................22

COLORS IN THE CATSKILLS........................................................26

2010 CANNONBALL RUN ............................................................31

LARZ ANDERSON EUROPEAN MOTORCYCLE DAYS...........39

A TALE OF TWO RALLIES............................................................50

MOTORCYCLE REVIEWSKAWASAKI NINJA 1000..............................................................33

PRODUCT REVIEWSTRIUMPH A2 WATERPROOF BOOTS........................................15

RAWHYDE/MANTRA WINES .....................................................33

SARGENT CYCLE SADDLE FOR BMW F 650 GS..................36

HYPERPRO SHOCKS .....................................................................40

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS................................................................42

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

HARLEY-DAVIDSON® OF LONG BRANCH671 Broadway • Long Branch, NJ 07740

732-229-8518 • www.HDLongBranch.com

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Noise… it’s Not what you thiNk!

Backroads Central sits back from the county

road we live on in northwest New Jersey. Most

traffic goes by with hardly a notice, but…

A few of these guys go by every day - one particular guy early each morn-

ing – EARLY! I can hear him coming for miles before he roars past our place.

Big engine pumping. Dual exhaust, that I imagine must be around the same

diameter as the Lincoln Tunnel, letting loose a cacophony of noise that seems

to shake the foundations of our building. As Jimmy Buffet once sang, “I hate

those bastards so much!”

All through the day, when we’re home, I can hear them

ride by. Now I know you’re thinking… there he goes again

talking about loud motorcycles and obnoxious riders. Ha!

This time you’re wrong. There is plenty of time, issues and

paper left to bust on those riders.

Today I am talking about something much bigger… about

a ton bigger. I am talking about those insufferable children

in ridiculously loud pick-up trucks!

I did one of our purely scientific surveys the other after-

noon. We had just returned from searching out yet another fantabulous Great

All American Diner Run and, with the motorcycles slowly doing that cool-

ing/ticking thing in the barn, we opened up a bottle of South African red and

sat on the deck which has a grand view of the county road we call home.

Now we live on a very motorcycle friendly road and a great number of

bikes rode by, some a little louder than others, but none so bad that we had

to cringe.

But then it happened. A large Ford F150 came rippin’ up the road.

It was like a Space Shuttle launch!

Shira and I both hunched down and said, “What the f*#k?”

A short time later some nimrod in a Chevy Silverado came by too. We

heard him coming for a while so we had time to tie down the bone china and

get a strong grip on the crystal wine glasses.

I have noticed that the bigger the Rebel Flag or Harley sticker in the win-

dow the louder the pick-up truck will be.

This isn’t to say that any of these yahoos are from south of the Mason-

Dixon Line or that they even own a motorcycle, much less a Harley; in fact

I don’t think many of them do; these stickers are just a desperate attempt to

stand out.

They might like to actually ride a Harley or sound like Greg Allman; but

it’ll probably never happen.

Like a petulant middle child that craves attention and acts out to get it,

these savants feel the need to be so loud and annoying that they actually put

the loudest straight pipe motorcycle to shame.

Personally, I know I have had enough of this auditory abuse. It might be

time for “time-out” for these guys. Maybe have them and their trucks stand

in the corner for an hour or so – every day!

In fact, some of these pick-up trucks are so loud

and so numerous here in Sussex County especially,

that a gaggle of loud bikes might almost be refresh-

ing at this point.

Did I just write that? Wow… you can see just

how deafening these trucks can be.

I tried to avoid this cruelty by listening to my

iPod around the house, but when Jeff Bodine comes

blastin’ up the hill the grounds reverberate and the

Richter Scales at Lamont-Doherty go wild with glee. Jeez Louise!

Hey, if you are one of these people who have to have the loudest truck on

the planet, well I’m talking to you. If your bike is just as loud well now I am

really talking to you.

What is your problem? Keep it down.

Loud Pipes Don’t Save Lives – they just piss regular folks off. Loud trucks

make it worse, as many times Joe Public thinks its just another annoying bike

riding by. Great.

See, here we riders lose twice; and this is a fight we can’t afford to lose.

Yep noise… sometimes it’s not what you think!

F R E E W H E E L I N ’

BRIAN RATHJEN

4 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

875 Middlesex Ave. (Rt. 27)Metuchen, NJ 08840

www.TriumphMetuchen.com

(732) 462-4881

See us at theIMS in NYCJan. 20-23

ReasoN to be happy

With everyone hopping on the holiday

bandwagon, I thought I’d take a step back

from the hustle of filling shopping lists and

prepping for the cold weather and reflect. Sure, this is the time of year to do

that. We’ve gone through another full trip around the sun and I’m sure there’s

lots we’ve all been through. I hope that most of it was good for everyone

and, for those events which have taken our breath or hearts away, I wish you

happier times. I’ve always tried to subscribe to the optimistic side of life and,

with that in mind, here’s my reasons to be

happy, in no particular order.

All of you out there: If it weren’t for all

you folks reading these pages, life as I know

it would be drastically different. Because

you all have enjoyed these pages for the past

15 years, Brian and I have been fortunate to

have met a bunch of you and traveled to

some pretty incredible places. Many of you

have become close friends. In fact, the reason we started our Backroads Ral-

lies was a selfish one; to be able to spend more time with those of you who

share your vacation time with us. We hope that you will keep us in your riding

lives and look forward to meeting more and more of you.

The changing of the season: You’re probably saying ‘What’s she

bonkers?’ Yeah, I know that we’re heading into the dark days of motorcy-

cling, with those of us ‘fairer weather’ riders catching very occasional saddle

time. It’s not my idea of fun to have to bundle up like the Michelin Man just

to say I’ve ridden my bike all twelve months of the year. Yes, heated gear

certainly alleviates some of the bulkage, but then you’re dealing with the

tethered effect. I know that I’ve walked away from my bike only to be

yanked back because I’ve forgotten to unplug.

But, without the changing of the seasons, we wouldn’t be ever hopeful for

the coming of Spring, the certain warmth of Summer and the beauty of the

fireworks of Autumn. So, Winter do your worst (well, not really, it’s just an

expression) because I know that come March the tides will change.

The New Year: This is going to be a good one, I can feel

it. Most of the motorcycle manufacturers are presenting

us with some fine options. It seems like the past few

years have been just a bit ho-hum regarding new designs

and innovative rides. There’s the much anticipated

Yamaha Super Tenere and Triumph Tiger 800, bring-

ing yet more options to all those adventure-riders

out there. Ducati has been busy, unveiling its all-new

Diavel, which you can read about in Bill Heald’s

column. BMW, not to rest on their laurels, is bring

the F 800 R to our shores – you can also read a short

impression on this in these pages – and the larger-

than-life K 1600 GT and GTL. We certainly look

forward to some seat time on those bad boys.

Back on the Japanese front, Kawasaki has some

super power players

entering the field

with the ZX-10R and Ninja 1000, as well

as their new top-of-the-line bagger, the

Vulcan 1700 Vaquero. Honda is cater-

ing to the other end of the spectrum

with their CBR250R. Need to get

from here to way over there without

stopping? Take a look at the 2012

Moto Guzzi Stelvio NTX with its 8.5-

gallon fuel tank. This just scratches the surface and I’m sure that if you are

in the market for a new ride, there’s something out there for you.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention my family, friends and, of course,

my best buddy (no, not you Notso, although you are ranked pretty high up

there) Brian as those who bring joy to my life and without whom life would

be very difficult indeed. Here’s to a happy, healthy, prosperous and joyous

New Year. May it bring you that which you desire, warm days, sultry nights

and plenty of saddle time. We’ll see you on the road.

W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’

SHIRA KAMIL

6 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

what FResh hell is this?

As we roll into a new century. . . no wait. Holy

crap, that was a decade ago. Where the hell did the time go? Anyway, as we

go rolling into the Two-Oh-Double-Uno, there is reason for optimism. I

know, I have no clue as to your personal situation and I hope things are

looking positive on that front for the New Year. The optimism I’m talking

about is what is rolling down the road from the motorcycle manufacturers,

as they continue to surprise us with new, unexpected offerings. This says

great things about their belief on where things are heading,

which is good for us all.

And then there’s Ducati. They apparently have

decided, in direct defiance of placing a hockey

rink in Hades, to do something not just unex-

pected, but radically bold and downright

bizarre. While they have introduced a

couple of very Ducati-like new bikes

(and also announced a product market-

ing alliance with Mercedes-Benz’s

high-performance AMG concern), they

have also created a truly wicked-wild cruiser

called the Diavel. This is not a typo, nor am I

having a bit of April Fool’s fun way too early.

The Ducati Overlords have taken a version of

their monstrously powerful Testastretta Superbike V-Twin and placed it in a

long, low cruiser chassis, and packed the beast with some serious Ducati-

style performance chops and a massive 240-series rear tire. This is really

raising the performance bar in the genre, or, in the words of the great Chef

Emeril Lagasse, “The sheer width of rubber communicates so much power

and style that the R&D team vowed to find a way to make it handle - even if

they knew the image would send a seismic shock through the industry.”

Wait: I am in error. That wasn’t Emeril; that was a quote from a Ducati

press release. How did that get in here, anyway? While I’m quoting press re-

leases, though, according to these materials the name Diavel comes from the

rather unsurprising reaction of a Ducati insider: “One day, early in the de-

velopment process of the bike, the first prototype was assembled and wheeled

out in front of a group of Ducati engineers and technicians who were viewing

the complete motorcycle for the first time. One person looking from the rear

of the bike saw its silhouette and exclaimed in Bolognese dialect: “Ignurànt

comm’ al diavel!” Which means: ‘Evil, just like the devil!’”

Wow. I like their candor. I mean, it’s a pretty startling

side-trip from Ducati’s typical street offerings, and yet the

closer you look at the Diavel, with it’s surprisingly good

cornering clearance, comparatively light weight (es-

pecially the more expensive Carbon model), cool

side-mounted radiators and standard ABS, Traction

Control and multi-mode engine tuning, you see

something arguably appropriate for inclusion in this

company’s lineup.

But, maybe I’ve just become used to such

wild additions to a seemingly predictable

manufacturer’s offerings. A couple of years

ago, Honda had some fun with such per-

ceptions when they introduced the Fury to

an unsuspecting public. This is a full-on

factory chopper, and when it was first re-

leased I was quite skeptical. Low and be-

hold, when I spent some quality time on

one down in Florida in ’09, I was very pleasantly surprised. It was beautifully

built (no surprise there), but what really amazed me was how much I enjoyed

riding it. I even found the really laid-back riding ergos to be quite acceptable,

and its plucky V-Twin and surprisingly nimble steering made for a very pleas-

ant ride. Who knew?

(Continued on Page 10)

P O S T C A R D SF R O M T H E H E D G E

BILL HEALD

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 7

MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE CENTER2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA

215-712-7433 • www.montgomeryvillecc.comAlways ride safely and wear proper protective gear. *Price shown is MSRP. Price subject to change. MSRP includes destination and handling charges but excludes license, registration, taxes, title, insurance and options.Actual price is determined by retailer. © 2009 BMW Motorrad USA, a division of BMW of North America, LLC. The BMW name and logo are registered trademarks.

R 1200 RT - $16,650.00*

My ambition?

To go nowhere fast.

We would like to wishall our customersa Happy and SafeHoliday Season

size

Does it matter? Y’know…size. Does it really

matter how big yours is? C’mon, you know what

I’m talking about. Oh sure, it’s a “family magazine” but we’re mostly adults

here, aren’t we (at least by age, if not maturity level). You can be honest:

how big is yours? Do you have an enormous…motorcycle?

I was reading about BMW’s latest offering, a 1600cc machine, and realized

that in the displacement wars, it’s not even near the top. In motorcycles, Tri-

umph’s 2300cc Rocket III Touring comes trippingly to mind, as it’s the

largest machine I’ve ever had the good fortune to ride. Think it over: the

Rocket Trey is almost five Fiat 500’s of displacement on two wheels. With

a solo rider in place, it’s also about a half ton of man and machine, but it still

handles well.

If you really want to go over the top, there’s the Boss Hoss, with a V-8 en-

gine, displacing up to 355 cubic inches (that’s 5,800cc on my 37-button en-

gineering calculator). That’s more than the displacement of all 7 motorcycles

in my possession, all strapped onto one two-wheeled chassis! With gas and

other vital fluids, it’s pushing 1,400 lb without a rider, so it can use the ponies

put out by the big mill.

We Americans seem to love them big, bad, and heavy. It goes with our cul-

ture: big voices, big belt buckles, big wallets, big watches, Big Sky, Big Mac,

and Big Lots. Supersize me, mamma, I’m going for a ride. But is all that dis-

placement really necessary, or do we just have a nationwide overcompensa-

tion problem?

We’re actually in the motorcycling minority when it comes to the rest of

the world, where instead of being large, expensive luxury rides, motorcycles

and scooters are the small, proletarian transport of choice. Take a look at any

photo of a European or Asian city and you’ll see streets and sidewalks strewn

with throngs of small-displacement machines. They park in very little space,

have ridiculously high miles per gallon ratings, and are cheap to buy and

service.

Size sure doesn’t seem to imply carrying capacity: I think we’ve all seen

the photos of some five-member, third-world family under way on a Chi-

nese-made scooter that must displace all of 50cc or so. How about the one

of the guy with about 200 plastic milk jugs in a net sack precariously attached

to the rear seat of a two-stroke step-through? I think it’s a pain to carry my

laden laptop case over my shoulder on the dual-sport and these folks are mak-

ing like ants carrying a big buttered roll away from a picnic. In Spain, I even

saw a dog sitting between a guy’s feet on a scooter.

Me? I’m a middleweight maven for the most part, with a couple 650’s and

a 400 in the stable, but I get a lot of gas from the 200 and the 125 as well.

Off-road, the smaller machines are much handier and confidence-inspiring

to me. I know if the 400 had high-sided me into the bottom of the same ditch

into which I was tossed by the 200, I might still be trying to right that thing.

On the road, the liter-plus bikes are the choice for the really long hauls, but

for pure fun it’s hard to beat the 650’s and I’ve done some pretty nice long

stretches on the SV.

Little bikes seem to have some advantages over big ones, like high fuel

economy, low insurance rates, and low ownership costs; however, I find my-

self shying away from anything under about 400cc when I hit the local multi-

lanes with speed limits of 55+ (which means about 80+ in the Metro DC

area). For the really crazy roads, I’d like to have a minimum of about 650cc

of comfort power on a lightweight, maneuverable machine. I’d love to have

a scooter, but we’re just not urban (or urbane) enough here.

Maybe that’s the answer to our love affair with big machines: we NEED

them for our own protection against the forces represented in the car com-

mercials by the “Zoom Zoom” guys or the number-and-letter-laden sedan

folks. I still wouldn’t want to take on a Hummer, however, even with a Boss

Hoss. I’d just make a slightly bigger dent and it, in the words of Churchill,

would “just make the rubble bounce.” Our love of the large is probably just

a defense mechanism. Then again, it could also be that overcompensation

thing. Vive la difference.

O N T H E M A R K

MARK BYERS

8 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

We thought we’d use Backlash for something a bit different in this Best of

Backroads issue. Speaking to the “People of the Page” we asked their

thoughts on their “Best Roads” to ride. Here’s some of what we got:

Rt. 6 across the Northern Tier of PA

Alan Kovitz

Georgia 60 from Dahlonega to Morganton

GT Turner

Route 16 but that’s a secret

David Nunnikhoven Virginia/West Virgina

Rainy ride in VT!

Shawn Nordlund

The road leading from house. It opens up endless possibilities.

Tony Lisanti

I’d tell you, but then I’d have to kill you. Just keep sending all the Lem-

mings down to the Dragon and leave me in peace and quiet.

Roadtrash Byrd

Essex County NY County Road 4 and 6 in North Hudson, NY. Not quite

the Dragon but only 15 minutes from home!

Andrew DeLivron

The Blue Ridge Parkway. 469 miles of twisties with no traffic lights and

if you ride it during the week there is hardly any traffic. My favorite time of

day on the BRP is late afternoon when the Park Rangers are calling it a day

and there is little worry about the 45 MPH speed limit being enforced.

Michael Aldea

Tie - Old Dixie Hwy in Tamoka State Pk, FL l to A1A or Rte. 328 in south-

ern Ohio - (or really any of the roads around Wayne National Forest in Ohio)

Wow, that’s tough!

Kim Leathem Pickett

Rte. 28/30 from Speculator, NY to Lake Placid, NY...the lake region is

beautiful! Pacific Coast Hwy from Malibu, CA to San Francisco, CA doesn’t

suck. Oh, and the Blue Ridge Parkway...all of it.

Vincent Lucanera

Route 2 up here in northern New England. From Houlton, Maine thru the

White and Green Mountains of New Hampshire and Vermont then up the

Champlain Islands. A grand over view of the Great North Woods.

Michael Farrell

Totally unfair! It’s like trying to determine your favorite food dish. In Italy

I’d choose Via 4 November along the west shore of Lago de Garda.

In Vermont, Route 110. In the Piedmont, Route 362/The River Route in

Quebec. The “Kanc” (Route 112) in New Hampshire. GR-3204 in the Sierra

Nevada Mountains south of Granada in Spain is towards the top of my list.

However, how can one compare against the other? Some of my favorites I

certainly won’t ride on a regular basis because I’d die if not perfectly in the

zone; others are less intense and make everything right with the world when

riding them. I just can’t compare one to another. Sorry!

Ken Aiken

So long as I’m comfortable with the wind in my face, my favorite road is

the one I’m currently riding. Living on Long Island I get lots of flat straight

stuff which, while often tedious, can be quite enjoyable and therapeutic. I

love riding ...in the south: GT’s selection of Route 60 is always a great stretch

of tarmac, but so is 180 and plenty of other roads down there. Michael’s BRP

(Continued on Page 10)

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 9

BACKLASH Letters to the Editor

pick is another fabulous road for multiple reasons: beautiful scenic vistas,

well maintained pavement, great sweeping curves, and very sociable park

police who regularly stop me to say hello. However I do disagree with his

late afternoon wicking it up - too many deer on the road! Certainly Deals

Gap US 129, the Snake US 421, and a multitude of other roads crisscrossing

the mountainous intersection of VA, TN, and NC are fabulous for riding. Rt.

16 running from VA to WVA is always a great road when heading north, as

are hundreds of smaller roads of lesser renown. Plenty of nice roads in NY,

NJ, VT and probably every other state in the union - although I still haven’t

found a good ride yet in Florida!! In the Alps the Furka to Brig passes are

fabulous, as are loads of other roads. Take away the traffic, give me some

open road - preferably with contours which allow me to get the bike side-

ways, and I am one happy camper!

Jon Bressner

Nitpickin’ from the West Coast

I appreciated Brian’s Free Wheelin’ editorial (November) on states, coun-

ties and towns trying to balance budgets by having the police write more

tickets, hanging more paper on the motorists and motorcyclists. But he does

make it sound as though the California muffler bill is taking place immedi-

ately. No, it won’t take effect until 2013, as the “Industry Infobites” section

on page 13 points out, giving the OEMs and aftermarket exhaust manufac-

turers two years to figure out where to put the numbers. And the law will

only affect bikes made after 01/01/13, so the owners of GL1500s don’t have

to worry about it.

Shira’s column on what every motorcyclist should carry suffers a redun-

dancy when she talks about replacing CO2 cartridges as well as carrying a

CyclePump tire inflator that runs off the bike’s battery; one or the other will

do, and I recommend the CyclePump.

Now I must rush off and find a wild turkey to run over. And then do my

on-line traffic school Imperial entanglements.

Clement Salvadori

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postcaRds FRom the hedge (Continued from Page 7)

Now, we have this satanic new Diavel that Ducati has imbued with a lot

of the typical qualities the marque is famous for, and, despite the radical ar-

chitecture, styling that (especially the beautifully-sculpted single-sided

swingarm) does indeed say this is a Duck. Impressive, really. They claim

that this will set new handling standards for the class, although they really

never say what class that is and they certainly never call it a cruiser. The

question is, will other manufacturers follow suit?

I’d like to see BMW come back with a cruiser, since they discontinued

the R1200C years ago. Incidentally, I still think this bike didn’t do better in

sales because they didn’t name it the Edelweiss (as per my suggestion).

Maybe, if they go more hardcore with a new design, they will give it a nice,

sinister moniker like the Morbach, which is the name of a US ammo depot

in Germany where a werewolf supposedly resides. And Triumph? They’re

almost there with the Rocket III but they need to kick it up a notch (ah-there’s

Emeril) and design a really wild muscle-cruise-chopper and call it. . . wait

for it. . . the Voldemort. Cool. eh? You could also refer to it as The Bike That

Must Not Be Named, if you’re squeamish.

10 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

When I was young, every time I wanted to go anywhere I had to beg for a

ride. Slowly, I earned my freedom. It came in the way of a budget bicycle.

Marty would drop by and I would yell to anyone in earshot that we were off

to the park, then run out the door before being told to make my bed. Our fa-

vorite parks were oddly all at the bottoms of hills, and we’d race down red-

faced, legs pumping and out of breath. The wind would blow back our hair

and we’d catch bugs in our grins. Sometimes in our throats. Freedom. We

would scream motor noises and think ourselves to be the very champions of

speed. It only cost us tired legs, sore throats, and butts bruised on BMX seats.

Kid stuff. As for the park? That was a navigation point, a place to catch our

breath and sip a soda before killing ourselves to get back up the hill. Who

goes to a park to play when you’re old enough to bike that far from home?

Really.

Eventually, we both got cars. This time, true freedom. We traded the bugs

in our teeth for radios, top speed, and a place to keep girls. (When we could

get them) There was something exciting about being behind the wheel of the

hulking mass of a 1979 Pontiac Grand Prix. It’s massive 5.0L engine was

only slowed by it’s anchor of a frame and chassis. It sure felt fast... 0 to 60

in roughly 12 or 20 seconds. But, after the automotive honeymoon was over,

that car and all others became just another responsibility, an expense. Insur-

ance, taxes and horrid fuel economy. Just a car, it takes you from A to B, dry,

comfortably and most of the time safely, except when

brake components burst like zits due to rot and lack of

care. I’m probably on file with the EPA. It took me

everywhere, work, school, to see girls, but, it had be-

come just a car, just another part of life. It seemed that

kind of tangible, easy freedom was over.

It took me until well after I took the training wheels

off my first motorcycle (The two wheel equivalent of

late model Grand Prix, an ‘85 Honda Nighthawk 450)

to realize all of the things I traded away with my Huffy

BMX. Last summer, in the Blue Ridge Mountains, I

caught a monarch butterfly with my eye. I delivered a

few firm words to the insect, who was still tasting my

face inside my helmet, and then I laughed my head off.

Marty, if you could only see me now... Saving my

voice, I took the motor up near red line and breezed

down the mountain. I am the champion of speed. Fi-

nally. I am free. (mostly.) Now, I’ve started to

(motor)bike to the park again, and I’m old enough to

know that once I get there, I don’t need to be doing any-

thing. Not that I would anyway. The destination is the

excuse, the ride is the reason. So, I take my wife and

we bring more than a can of soda for lunch, and we take

our time. The vessel is different, but the idea is the

same, avoid main roads, find small, twisty routes, and

go the longest way to the destination, if you even bother

to invent one. Don’t go home, because the bed still

needs to be made.

I’ve traded back the radio, windshield, and roof, the

protection, comfort and safety, (though I kept space to

keep a girl...) and I’ve got-

ten back a machine that

takes my whole body to

handle, a full-on visceral

experience. I’ve traded

back because now every-

thing is amplified and sim-

plified again, the wind,

rain, cold are intense... and

the perfect summer days

are expanded to hyperbole.

Proof that June hates cars,

but she loves motorbikes.

It’s obviously not exactly

the same as a bicycle, of course, and some things have changed. The whole

ride is downhill now, thanks to twisty grips, and my throat doesn’t hurt from

yelling anymore. You also get to go so much faster. But, some things will

never change, the seat still hurts my duff, and just once in a while I quietly

put my boots on, then yell through the house that I’m off to the park, giddy

as I slam the door and anxiously hope my 32-year-old Honda can get me out

of earshot before I’m told to come back and make the bed.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 11

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD Brady Steffl

Long Island YAMAHA67 North Broadway • Route 107 • Hicksville, NY

www.LIYamaha.com • 516-935-6969

Come in for our great end of year deals!

RIDING ROUND’ AFRICA

As a fundraiser for the Children’s Wish Foundation, Honda Dakar Rally

Team member Patrick Trahan will attempt a record-setting circumnavigation

of Africa in early 2011. He will endeavor to travel 25,000 km (about 15,500

miles) through 26 countries in just

60 days. The existing record is 286

days. This is a grueling goal on a

continent with few linked roads.

Many of the extreme, remote areas

he’s passing through have no roads

at all.

Patrick’s fundraising goal is to

raise $25,000 for the Children’s

Wish Foundation. You can con-

tribute by visiting him at the Honda

Canada booth in the Canadian

MMIC motorcycle shows this win-

ter, or by visiting his website at http://rideafrica4wishes.com/. Donations are

$1 per kilometer of his 25,000 km journey.

Patrick Trahan has called upon Twisted Throttle the premiere adventure

touring outfitter based in Rhode Island, to prepare his Honda XR650L for

extreme long-distance desert travel. Custom bike modifications by Twisted

Throttle will include a reinforced rear subframe, Trax hard luggage system,

LED headlights, auxiliary fuel tanks, a solar-powered charging array for nav-

igation, film, and communications equipment, and more.

Stay current with the custom bike build and Patrick’s progress by visiting

the Twisted Garage video blog at http://twistedthrottle.com.

TEAM NO LIMIT TO PERFORM AT THIS YEAR’S IMSThe Progressive International Motorcycle Shows is proud to announce Tel-

evision Star and Stunt Riding Icon Jason Britton and Team No Limit will

perform their thrilling stunt shows at all 12-city stops of the nationwide tour.

Show attendees from Dallas to

Daytona will have the chance to

see Speed Channel’s hit show

“Superbikes” Star Britton and

his Co-star Eric Hoenshell, per-

form heart-pounding stunts in-

cluding wheelies, on-bike

acrobatics, stoppies, burnouts,

endos and more at each show.

“Eric and I are very excited to

be a part of the entire 2010-2011 Progressive International Motorcycle Show

tour,” said Britton. “We look forward to meeting and performing for our fans

and fellow motorcycle enthusiasts. It’s all about the passion on two wheels!

See you at the shows!”

For more details and information call 800-331-5706 or visit www.motor-

cycleshows.com

RIDER INSURANCE DONATES 2011 HARLEY-DAVIDSONTO POLICE MOTOR UNIT

Through the dedication to support

the needs of local law enforcement and

the needs of the community, Rider In-

surance has donated a 2011 Harley-

Davidson Police FLHP Road King to

the Springfield Police Motor Unit.

Captain John Cook states, “The Spring-

field Police Motor Unit was started in 2002 by retired Sergeant Richard

12 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

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HUGE selection of Parts and Accessories for cruisers and sportbikes

600 Helmets In Stock:Icon, Shoei, Suomy, HJC, Scorpion and more

HUGE selection of apparel:Mens and Womens - Street and Dirt

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INDUSTRY INFOBITES News from the Inside

Mickles with a donation from Rider Insurance of its first motorcycle (a

BMW). In working with retired Captain Peter Davis and Lieutenant James

Fine, Rider has increased the Springfield Motor Unit with its donation of the

2011 Harley.”

Founder Harry Bleiwise, President Charles Lally and Chief Operating Of-

ficer Lauren Belfiore presented this gift in the fall of 2010. Harry and the

entire Rider Insurance family would also like to congratulate all of the offi-

cers who have been recently promoted. Rider thanks the Springfield Police

Department for their continued involvement in the community and their ded-

ication to riding.

In addition to providing insurance coverage to the motorcycle community,

Rider feels it is important to give back to the community. Through the Blei-

wise Family Charitable Foundations and general corporate sponsorships and

donations, Rider has been able to support many organizations. For the list

of charitable contributions, visit www.Rider.com.

For more information on Rider Insurance or to get a quick quote, call 800-

595-6393 or visit www.Rider.com.

2011 AMA VINTAGE MOTORCYCLE DAYSAT MID-OHIO SPORTS CAR COURSE JULY 22-24

The AMA is pleased to announce the 2011 dates for the country’s premier

annual celebration of motorcycling heritage. AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days

will take place next year on July 22-24, 2011, at the world-class Mid-Ohio

Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio.

The 20th Annual AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days

features classic motorcycles of all makes and styles,

and honors the riders who made them famous. Activi-

ties include the AMA Racing Vintage Grand Champi-

onships, which feature road racing, motocross, hare

scrambles, trials and dirt track; North America’s largest

motorcycle swap meet; bike shows and awards; a Mar-

que of the Year display that showcases the history of a

unique brand; a Grand Marshal; a new-product vendor

midway; stunt shows; demo rides of current production

bikes; and seminars on a number of topics by noted mo-

torcycling experts.

“For many motorcyclists, AMA Vintage Motorcycle

Days is the premier event of their riding seasons,” said

AMA President and CEO Rob Dingman. “As we’ve

seen over the years, the appeal of this event goes be-

yond classic motorcycle collectors and strict vintage

competitors. Motorcyclists of all eras are drawn to

AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days, brought together by

their common love of all things motorcycling.”

All proceeds from AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days

benefit the Motorcycle Hall of Fame Museum. The goal

of the Museum, located on the campus of the American

Motorcyclist Association in Pickerington, Ohio, is to

tell the stories and preserve the history of motorcy-

cling’s legends and heroes. For more information, call

(614) 856-2222, or visit the Museum’s website at Mo-

torcycleMuseum.org.

ACTOR FATALLY SHOT FILMINGMOTORCYCLE GETAWAY SCENE

Actor Kirk Abella was masked and filming a getaway

scene for the British film “Going Somewhere” when a

watchman mistook the performer for a real bandit and

fatally shot him.

The New York Daily News reported that when the

director shouted, “Action,” Abella ran to his waiting

motorcycle (and masked stunt driver) to make his film

getaway — only to be grabbed by his shirt and shot in

the back at close range by volunteer village guard,

Eddie Cuizon, in front of dozens of spectators.

Police told the media that when the crowd heard

Cuizon fire the gun they believed it was just part of the

film — not realizing they were witnessing the actor’s

murder.

The shooting took place in the Parian district of Cebu

in the Philippine Islands, where criminals often use motorcycles to escape

law enforcement. However, the shooting was no simple mistake. Firearms

are illegal in the Philippines, and before the incident the guard borrowed a

friend’s .357 handgun and went to the police station — where he was in-

formed that the filming was taking place. The watchman, accompanied by a

police officer, then made his way to the film set to help secure the area. Police

Chief Alexis Relado said, “I don’t know why he still accosted them.”

VOTERS SEE REDFueled by discontent, record voter turnout nationwide not only gave the Re-

publican Party the nod in local and national races, but they also saw red at the

ballot box as Red Light Camera initiatives lost big on election day.

According to TheNewspaper.com, “Regardless of who you voted for, No-

vember 2nd represented a major win for everyone who opposes the use of

red light cameras. In a handful of pockets across the nation, voters decided

they were sick of the automated machines and by voting against the use of

these devices, sent a message to law enforcement, as well as the companies

that manufacture red light cameras.”

These cameras are often viewed as a revenue-generating scheme rather

than safety devices, and many citizens feel that red light cameras even rep-

resent a violation of our constitutional rights. On election day, cities and dis-

tricts across the nation decided to ban the use of these cameras, adding to a

growing list of towns that have already voted to do so.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 13

NUMBERS DON’T LIE!

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WFOinc. Touring & Sport AccessoriesLuggage • Jackets • Pants • Boots • Rain Gear • Tools • Exhausts • Tires

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TRACK DAY HEADQUARTERS • NESBA Dealer188 Halsey Road (Rte. 626) • Newton NJ 07860 • www.wforacing.net

Ph: 973-579-5103 • Email: wfomotosports@hotmail.com • Fax: 973-579-1806

Joe’s baR

202 w maiN st, ligoNieR, pa 15658 • 724-238-4877

Some folks call places like these “Old Men” bars. Other will mistakenly

label them “Dives.” But whatever you might take away from a visit to the

center of town watering hole in Ligonier, Pennsylvania we guarantee it will

be curious amazement.

Joe Snyder ran this bar for years, but it seems

his passion was hunting. We’re not talking deer

or rabbits here. Nope, we’re talking big game.

The bigger the better.

Now, before any of you animal lovers go bal-

listic on the good Doctor here, let’s be clear. I

didn’t shoot these animals - Joe did and it’s done

so stop crying and come along to a real find in

Mysterious America.

We were in the town of Ligonier on our way

to the Backroads 15th Anniversary rally in North

Carolina. Seeing the big neon sign ablaze in the

front of Joe’s we moseyed in for a beer. Across

from the bar I noticed a skull in a case.

“Wow, that’s interesting,” I said to the barkeep.

He smiled and pointed to the back of the bar.

Behind the pool table in a huge museum-style

glass display was a ....polar bear?

What is this? The island from Lost?

But, that was just the beginning. It seems that

Joe Snyder would spend all his vacation time

traveling the world and then hunting some of the

most exotic animals on the planet. For almost 50

years Joe ran his bar and enlarged his collection

- a taxidermy wonder! The man passed away a few years back, but the col-

lection lives on. Err, bad choice of words there - sorry.

As I walked to the back, looking at the menagerie behind the glass I

glanced up at the head of an elephant that is supported from the beams of the

long bar’s ceiling. A head of an elephant!?

I asked how they possibly could have

gotten a thing of such size into the bar,

but nobody there had a clue.

Continuing around the back of the bar

there was another long glass case and I

counted over 50 different critters on display. Of course Shira balked a bit at

the camel’s head and nobody really would love

the stuffed giraffe - such soft creatures. But there

they were.

Off to the side was a small spiral staircase lead-

ing to the second story.

If the back of the bar was impressive the sec-

ond story was a whole larger tale, or would that

be tail.

Holy Oz - lions and tigers and bear - oh my!

Kangaroos, snakes, buffalo, rhinocerous, ibex,

skunks, and almost every creature you could possibly shoot to kill on this

planet. An estimated repre-

sentation of 100 species are

on view, all for the price of

wandering in; no purchase

necessary.

Even some that were never

actually on the planet in the

first place. Jackalopes and

squirrels dressed up like

Robin Hood and his furry

Merry Men. All in all we esti-

mated over 220 stuffed me-

mentoes of Joe’s travels.

There are many interesting

places we’ve seen in these

Mysterious Americas, but

Joe’s bar in Ligonier, PA has

to be the wildest and has been

instantly catapulted to our Top

10 Bars of the World list -

even if they serve their beer in

glass jars and their stools have

elephant feet.

14 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents

Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

Ah, the combination of protection, comfort and waterproof-ness is desired

in every aspect of our riding apparel, and this goes double for boots. When

it comes to touring boots, they have to do all of the above while being sub-

jected to the toughest treatment (i.e., we walk around on them, often for se-

rious distances when we’re visiting a park, museum, etc.). Therefore, I’m

always on the lookout for a really trick pair of boots that can handle all these

chores and last a good long time, too.

Being as how my main ride these days

is a Triumph, I decided to check out their

substantial apparel line and low and be-

hold discovered their A2 Waterproof

Boots, which are part of their “Triumph,

Engineered with Alpinestars” range.

These are described as sport /sport tour-

ing boots, and as such they are loaded

with protection such as shin guards,

molded ankle and calf protection, remov-

able toe scrapers, and God knows what

else as the complexity and workmanship

are extensive and excellent, in that order.

Check out the Union Jack, molded into

the leather hook and loop flap closure that

goes over the zipper on the inside of the

boot. Brilliant. There’s also flex panels in-

corporated in key areas for comfort, as

well as a breathable, waterproof lining.

It’s basically like they put everything they

could think of in a sport touring boot

along with styling to compliment your Triumph. The question is, how do

they work?

In the 6 months I’ve had these boots, they have been excellent riding com-

panions. First, they are easy to get in and out of, which can be a big deal at

the end of a long day. While I haven’t had the opportunity to do the Deluge

Test (my fault-not a lack of Deluges), minor rain events have been no prob-

lem. Despite the extensive armor and thick lining(s), in the summer weather

they breathed well, and my feet never became miniature saunas. While stiff

at the onset, the A2s broke in well after a fairly brief time and the flex panels

did their work and they became per-

fectly comfortable to stroll about in at

length. I have managed to knock a toe

slider off due to encounters with a door

I guide motorbikes through to take

them to shelter, but they pop right back

on. All the motorcycle stuff is good in

that these boots are narrow in the right

places for easy shifting, they slide on

the pegs the way they should and have

just the right heel height to keep them

in place. I say this while I’m testing a

very different set of boots at the mo-

ment that do all this basic stuff wrong,

making me appreciate the A2s all the

more. Nothing like seeing how it isn’t

as easy as it looks design-wise to make

you appreciate fine boot engineering.

So, I give a big thumbs up to these

fine Alpinestars especially created for

Triumph. At $269.95, they’re certainly

not cheap but you can easily pay more

and get less, and I speak from experience. US sizes range from 7.5-11. Con-

tact your Triumph dealer or www.triumph.co.uk/usa/clothing.aspx

Bill Heald

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 15

PRODUCT REVIEW

TRIUMPH A2 WATERPROOF BOOTS BY ALPINESTAR

pocoNo iNdiaN museum

Route 209, bushkill, pa • 570-588-9338

www.pocoNoiNdiaNmuseumoNliNe.com

Given our office location, we spend a lot of time scooting around the bor-

ders of New York, Pennsylvania and New Jersey.

Many of our readers have never been up this way – just north of the

Delaware Water Gap – and, once past the towns of Sparta and Newton the

rest of the way to the river is pretty much open land – with just a few small

hamlets here and there.

Head down Struble Road to Tillman’s Ravine and the Walpack Valley and

you will get a view of New

Jersey that few see. This is

how the land was back

when the Native American –

the Lenape – lived along

these forests, cliffs, water-

falls and rivers.

Just west of the Delaware

on busy and modern Route

209 you will find an old

stately home. This place has

16 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

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Rip & Ride® • POCONO INDIAN MUSEUMROUTE 209, BUSHKILL, PA

570-588-9338 • WWW.POCONOINDIANMUSEUMONLINE.COM

GPS DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/BCZ0IO • 65 MILE O/W

EXIT RIGHT FROM TRAMONTIN

RIGHT AT SILVER LAKE ROAD

RIGHT AT ROUTE 94 NORTH

LEFT AT SPRING VALLEY RD CR 659RIGHT AT CR 521STAY ON CR 521 TO RTE. 206 LEFT AT RTE. 206 NORTH

LEFT ON STRUBLE ROAD

TILLMANS RAVINE WORTH EXPLORING

LEFT AT 4-WAY INTERSECTION - MOUNTAIN ROAD

GRAVEL ROAD – TO BUTTERMILK FALLS ON LEFT

CONTINUE TO NPR 615 – MAKE RIGHT

BEAR LEFT AT PETER’S VALLEY ON OLD MINE RD

SHARP LEFT AT CR 560 CROSS DINGMANS BRIDGE $1 TOLL

STRAIGHT AT RTE. 739LEFT AT MILFORD ROAD

BEAR LEFT AT BROADHEAD ROAD

RIGHT AT RTE. 209POCONO INDIAN MUSEUM A FEW MILES ON RIGHT

a history all by itself, though not nearly

as old as the story we are here to tell.

The house was built in 1840 by John

Van Campen – who built a few homes in

and around the immediate New Jersey /

Pennsylvania area.

At one point the home was a stopping

point for Stage Coaches heading to and

from New York State. During the Civil

War runaway slaves were hidden in the

basement, as it was part of the Under-

ground Railroad bringing escaping

blacks north to Canada.

During that horrid part of American

History known as Prohibition, not the

Civil War, (which was awful too) the

place was a Speakeasy called “Joan of

Arc” and was frequented by famous

and infamous alike such as Legs Diamond and Dutch Shultz.

In 1976 the property was bought by the Pocono Indian Museum and today

you can visit and learn the real history of the peoples that called this pristine

wilderness home.

Entering the museum’s gift shop you can pay the light $5 fee and get a

small hand-held cassette player that will take you on a short, but informative

tour of the museum.

It is believed that mankind made its way to North

America by way of the land bridge between Alaska and

Siberia. Being hunters and gatherers they eventual, over

thousands of years, made their way into the region we

now know as the Delaware River Valley.

The ancestors of the peo-

ple we know as the Lenape

arrived some 10,000 years

ago and they lived, more or

less, peacefully for centuries

in this region.

Here at the Pocono Indian

Museum the tour will show

you how they survived and

flourished for all those cen-

turies. The tools they used,

the homes they lived in, how

the Lenape hunted and

farmed. And, just as impor-

tantly, how in just a short

span of 100 years the tribes

that some knew as the

Delaware Indians and their culture vanished from this

region as European settlers made headway westward.

Another thing we found interesting was the strong be-

lief in what was called a creature that was half man half

beast that roamed the area. Large with black fur, burning

red eyes and an incredible stench the “Messing” was a

protector of the forest. Hmmm, we’ll have to get Doctor

Seymour O’Life to investigate this tale.

The Pocono Indian Museum also has a fine gift shop

with all sorts of things Na-

tive America and the region

surrounding the museum

still has a lot of natural al-

lure which we will see when

you follow our Rip & Ride

to the museum itself.

It will bring you through some of the

more rugged parts of northwestern New

Jersey and some kick-ass roads in Penn-

sylvania so get ready to go native on this

month’s Getaway!

This ride will start from Tramontin H-

D / Honda, which you’ll find at exit 12 off

I-80 in Hope, NJ.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 17

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the little a “le” inn

hc61 box 45 (off highway 375) • Rachel, Nevada 89001

(775) 729-2515 • www.littlealeinn.com

Jamie Hansen

“Earthlings Welcome,” says the sign out-

side Rachel, Nevada’s Little A “Le” Inn.

And while walking into this diner, located

midway down Nevada’s Extraterrestrial

Highway, easily feels like entering a differ-

ent planet, it’s just as easy to feel welcome.

“You’re back, and you’ve brought your

sweetheart!” This is how the waitress

greeted my significant other and me when

we stopped in this fall. I was on my way east

from San Francisco, and my boyfriend had

ridden from Utah to meet me halfway in an

old mining town called Tonopah. On his

way, he’d visited the A “Le” Inn. As we

stepped into the restaurant on our way back

east, it was like greeting old friends.

As we settled in for cheap beers and Alien Burgers With Secretions (an

other-worldly spin on the cheeseburger), it became clear that a visit to the

Little A “Le” Inn was about the people as much as the vittles. Agent 0051,

the restaurant manager, agrees. He came from Atlanta to stay for a night, got

so wrapped with the locals that he

lingered for a month, and a year later

he moved in.

“The people here are the most

amazing group,” he says. “All are

welcome.”

That includes motorcyclists. Agent

0051 —Ken Langley to civilians —

describes the atmosphere as biker-

friendly. He just asks for groups of

30 or more to call ahead. As we

spoke, he was anticipating a group of

bikini bikers to be riding through.

Motorcycles are a common sight at

the A “Le” Inn, the Extraterrestrial

Highway being the inviting stretch of

open road that it is. If you’re any-

thing like this biker, though, you hit

the highway for the whole party bag of characters

you’re bound to meet, not just those on two wheels. And

plenty of characters make their way through Rachel,

Nevada.

First, there are the 67 people who call the town home.

You’re likely to find at least a handful of them at the

inn, which seems to be the town’s main gathering place.

Thanksgiving happens there, as well as Easter, Hal-

loween, New Years and more.

Then, there’s those who make the place their “pil-

grimage”: “People come in campers, people come in

vans, they come with the clothes on their back, people

come from all over the world,” says Agent 0051.

Stargazers are drawn to the dark night skies, while ge-

ologists, people into aeronautical science and military

hobbyists all stop by Little A “Le” Inn while exploring

this dusty American back road.

If you find yourself settling in for the night, the bar

offers some points of interest. Many take a shot in honor

of the test pilots – like the ones who fly low enough

overhead to scrape your helmet as you ride in – who

have fallen. Or you can try “Cherria 51,” described as

“so smooth you’ll never know you were abducted.”

Then, there’s the Alien Tequila, housed in its special

skull-shaped bottle, made especially for the bar. Balance

out this debauchery with wholesome pie or cake, hand-

baked by the owner’s husband, Bill.

If you celebrated one fallen test pilot too many, how-

ever, there’s rooms (subdivided trailer units) available

for under $50, or you can pitch a tent on the surrounding

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1269 DOLSONTOWN RD • MIDDLETOWN NY 10940845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM

18 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN tasty places to take your bike

BLM land.

A word of warning: The Little A “Le” Inn is on the way to almost nowhere.

It sits halfway down the Extraterrestrial Highway, a 98-mile stretch of road

that connects an abandoned hot springs, via a notorious government test site,

with a lonely intersection. We think this is part of the appeal. It’s hard not to

feel like you’re rediscovering a forgotten patch of America’s quilt as you

zoom with freedom down the empty road, breaking up the long, flat miles

by exploring ghost towns, abandoned mines, and — for the adventurous —

mountain caves.

A couple practical tips: Be on the lookout for stray cattle and wild horses,

and make sure to gas up. If you’re coming from Tonopah, it’s nearly 130

miles to the next station in Ash Springs. For emergencies, the Little A “Le”

Inn keeps some spare fuel on hand.

We provide a rip and ride from both Tonopah and Las Vegas for this trip.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 19

Line ‘em up!Barnsider Restaurant

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at the

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AWAY IN ASH SPRINGS.

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HWY 95 AND US-6 E SPLIT, STAY LEFT TO KEEP ON 6AFTER ABOUT 50 MILES, TURN RIGHT ON NV-375 SWARM SPRINGS (ABANDONED HOT SPRINGS) IS HERE

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yboR city

hiddeN Jewel oF ceNtRal FloRida

Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar, sometimes it tastes so much

better after you watched it being rolled in front of you.

Just east of the big bay in Tampa, across the state from Day-

tona, you will find Ybor City (pronounced Eeh-Borh). It was

founded in the 1880s by cigar manufacturers and was populated

by thousands of immigrants, mainly from Spain, Cuba, and

Italy. For the next 50 years, workers in Ybor City’s cigar facto-

ries would roll millions of cigars annually.

Full of history, in 1898 Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Rid-

ers rode through this town on the way to the Spanish-American

War.

After World War II the town went through a few decades of

abandonment and decay, but that has turned around and today

Ybor City has become a thriving little historic town with one

heck of a nightlife.

In 2008, 7th Avenue, the main commercial thoroughfare in

Ybor City, was recognized as one of the “10 Great Streets in

America” by the American Planning Association.

When making the ride down to Daytona, this is the perfect place to head

for some serious fun and respite from the Daytona crowds.

There are a number of hotels in town, but the Hilton Garden worked well

for us as it was close enough to 7th Avenue, but far enough to be semi-quiet.

If a more relaxed inn might be more your preference try the Ybor House just

down the road.

With machines safely parked for the night and room acquired we went out

on the streets for adventure.

With our friends Richard and Dee Dee Ford leading the way it was first to

King Corona Cigars to find a couple of good ones and then grab a lunch of

Sangria and Cuban Sandwiches.

The cold winds of New Jersey in the winter seemed miles away and after

lunch we strolled along the busy 7th Avenue, stopping here and there to see

what Ybor had to offer – which was a lot.

Strolling past the coffee roasting factories the smell was heavenly. If you

want to eat, drink and be merry this is the town for you. A little bit New Or-

leans, a little bit Key West, a

little bit Havana.

By this time it was crossing

into evening and we took in a

few of the local watering

holes – The Dirty Shame (love

that name), Double Decker

and a very piratey place called

Gaspar’s Grotto named for the

famed pirate Gasparilla.

That night found us sitting

down for an excellent meal at

Carmines, with their Devil

Crab and hand-crafted Moji-

tos. The party keeps going

long and hard in Ybor but by

the witching hour we had

strolled, swaggered and stag-

gered back to the Hilton Gar-

den and called it a night.

If you take a few days in

Ybor get up early and have a

super Cuban breakfast at La

Tropicana Café of eggs, chorizo and cheese sandwiches before heading west

to the Gulf of Mexico and Fort Desoto Park. Located just south of St. Pe-

tersburg it is the largest park within the Pinellas County Park System and

consists of 1,136 acres made up of five interconnected islands. In 2005 it

was named the #1 beach in the United States. The old fort is very neat, but

just walking on this pristine Gulf beach is worth the ride over.

We rented large tandem bicycles to scoot around the large park and in our

travels I spotted a beached sea turtle. We went to help him back to the sea,

but it seems that nature had other plans for Tommy Turtle.

Heading back to Ybor we stashed the machines and made our way to the

Ybor City Museum State Park to get a better feel for the history of this old

town and then walked over for dinner at the oldest Spanish Restaurant in the

United States – Columbia. Opening in 1905 this restaurant has seen Ybor at

its best, its worst and now in it rebirth and they serves some of the best Span-

20 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE’RE OUTTA HERE a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

ish food we have ever had. They should. They have

been at it for 105 years!

The Paella is said to be incredible as are their house

specials and the Sangria was certainly the best I have

ever had.

Our second night in Ybor was just a slight variation

of the first. The wine bar at the Bunker, a few cozy

local spots and we ended our last night in Ybor the way

we started it with cigars at King Corona.

For those of you who travel down to Daytona each

year, or for those who are just passing through, Ybor

City, Florida is a must see and a great place to begin or

extend your ride down to our most southern state.

Once you settle in and the machines are parked you

will find plenty to do in this old cigar town.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 21

SOURCES:YBOR CITY

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

813-241-8838WWW.YBOR.ORG

CARMINES RESTAURANT

813-248-3834

KING CORONA CIGARS

888-248-3812KINGCORONACIGARS.COM

YBOR CITY MUSEUM

STATE PARK813-247-6323

YBORMUSEUM.ORG

HILTON GARDEN INN

813-769-9267TAMPAYBOR.GARDENINN.COM

YBOR HOUSE

813-792-0394WWW.YBORHOUSE.COM

The Great All American Diner RunWe hear, time and again, that the GAADR is what most of you turn to when you get the latest issue of Backroads. Each month we do our best to fold in all the

tasty ingredients that make for a delicious Great All American Diner Run. Appetizing roads, tempting location, mouth-watering food and, of course we hope you

add in a dash of some of your best friends. This all comes together in each month’s GAADR – so let’s get to the very best of 2010.

2nd Runner Up • the Franklin house tavern101 North market street, shaefferstown, pa • 717-949-2122 • www.franklinhousetavern.com • gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/b3k3ay

This gem of a restaurant was a place that we had passed so many times in our

travels down to the Amish country of Pennsylvania, always in the middle of meals.

Finally the stars aligned and we arrived right around lunch one day and were ever

glad. The Franklin House tavern has a deep history (started back in 1746), more

than enough parking, great ambiance, a wonderful deck and some of the best food

we have found for lunch anywhere. There is a reason that we have brought groups

here again and again. The place is fantastic and we are sure you will agree when

you ride down to Shaefferstown, along one very scrumptious Rip & Ride indeed.

1st Runner Up • the hungry tarpon77522 overseas highway mile marker. 75.5, islamorada, Fl • 305-664-0535 • www.hungrytarpon.com

If you have never taken the stunning ride from Miami to Key West, well here is one for your ‘bucket list’. With the Atlantic on

the left and the blue Gulf of Mexico on your right this short 127.5 mile jaunt is magical, especially in an early morning light.

A little over half way down, on the key called Islamorada, on the Gulf side, you will find one of the coolest restaurants we

know of – The Hungry Tarpon. Super location, friendly staff, lots of local wildlife – including hungry tarpons, it is the perfect

place to put the side stands down and have some seriously good food while soaking in the locale. Next time you head to Daytona

make plans to explore further south and hit the Keys but don’t miss our first runner up this year – The Hungry Tarpon!

1st Place Great All American Diner Run 2010 • kundla’s open pit bbQRte. 590, hamlin, pa 570-689-7888 • gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/5059th

No one can say that we did not provide some serious BBQ this past year. Heck, we

had one issue with four separate eateries, but in September we featured one that we really

enjoyed. Everything about Kundla’s Open Pit BBQ was a bit different and special. Riding

up you will find a monstrous 30-foot open pit with all sorts of meaty goodness happening

all over it. The place is owned by Kundla’s Western Beef Company and it is opened only

on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays during the warmer months. The main items are ribs

and chicken both of which are juicy, tender and moist.

The chicken was fantastic and the ribs looked like Wilma Flintstone had prepared them

– they were gynormous!

Kundla’s have their own dry rubs, cooking and finishing sauces, which you can buy in

their retail meat store next to the outdoor BBQ. Some of the riders we brought there said

the taste here was addictive and we have heard the same great accolades from many of

you readers that have visited Kundla’s since. Put this superior chow together with the cozy feel to the place, the great service and

impressive roads that surround Kundla’s Open Pit BBQ and you have First Place for the Great All American Diner Run for 2010.

Big City GetawaySometimes you might just be looking for a great ride with a fantastic destination; a little escape from the day to

day. Well, that is what the Big City Getaway has always been about and this year we had some very interesting little

escapes. We have whittled them down to the top three.

2nd Runner Up • hillier than thoughwestern New Jersey • gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/qx4nsr

This was simply a great ride we threw together back in February of last

year. Looking to find some of the hillier sections of western New Jersey, this

route spent a full afternoon zigzagging around this part of the state and offered

some serious and challenging riding up and down some of the steepest and

twistiest roads that the Garden State has to offer. Truly a superior day’s ride!

rum roll, please! Okay at Monkey with a Gun that really is conga roll, but the thought is the same. Once again we have taken

a trip around the sun and have ended up here, at this point in time, putting together our annual Best of Backroads; ending

the first decade of the 21st Century.

As always we have been sequestered in said MWAG for a long weekend of deliberation, discussion and just a few “dukes

up!” moments. Mr. Happy took Bahr easily as Byers looked on smiling. This year featured a few cases of Cupcake Pinot

Noir, Makers Mark 46 and a bottle of Connecticut Moonshine that Bill Heald swore was given to his Great Grand Pappy by

Sam Clemens himself. Even the good Doctor Seymour O’Life flew in from his sabbatical in the Himalayas to chime in. After

a few days of heavy consultation, consumption and corruption we eventually came up with the final list for the year.

Strap on your helmets and welcome to the Best of Backroads 2010!D

22 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

The Best of Backroads 2010

1st Runner Up • sunset hill shooting RangeRte. 314, henryville, pa • 570-629-3981 • www.sunsetrange.com

gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/v2av1m

Now this was a really different place for

us. Although not gun aficionados, we do

have a few weapons here at Backroads

Central and a small tactical nuclear device

we bought on eBay.

But, the Sunset Hill Shooting Range was

just too much fun. After the gratifying ride

here through the Poconos you will get to

handle and shoot just about every weapon,

from old to futuristic, and all with a personal firearms instructor to make sure

you do it safely and well.

AR-15s, Springfield XD-9s, Shira’s

deadly showing with a Glock 9mm

handgun (she has me in line now!) and

the very cool AR-30 Sniper Rifle.

You pay by the round here, so keep

track of your shooting; but we do

promise that you and your group will

have a very enjoyable time at Sunset

Hill blowing the crap out of things!

Fun times kids – fun times!

1st Place Big City Getaway 2010

walkway over the hudsonhighland & poughkeepsie, New york • www.walkway.org

gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/oct5l1

This refurbished steel trellis rail bridge, built in 1899,

was once the largest of its type in the world. Now con-

verted into a pedestrian walkway it has revitalized

towns on both sides of the Hudson River.

We rode to the Highland, or

western side, of the river to ac-

cess the Walkway, but the

Poughkeepsie side has easy ac-

cess too.

Strolling across the mighty

structure is an education in it-

self, as there are plenty of his-

torical and educational plaques

along the way and you can

even use your cell phone to ac-

cess even more information.

The views, both to the north

and south are breathtaking, es-

pecially at the height of the au-

tumn leaf season; and you’ll find the ride to the

Walkway just as much fun.

Although there are plenty of restaurants in Pough-

keepsie, we found a superb riverside place, Mariners

Restaurant, just below the bridge on the western shore.

This offered a great vista of the Walkway from ground

level and you can see what a truly magnificent piece of

engineering it is, and why it easily took First Place for

the Big City getaway 2010!

We’re Outta Here!We stated last year that we take great pride in our We’re Outta Here col-

umn. There is not much better than taking you and yours away for a few days

of riding bliss, especially when you have a great place to put your head down

at night. Let’s see which inns were the best of 2010.

2nd Runner Up • Nolichuckey bed & breakfast cabins295 kinser park lane, greenville, tN

423-787-7947 • www.tennessee-cabins.com

Part old mill, part home, part B & B the

place called Nolichuckey has to be one of the

more unique inns we have ever featured in

Backroads.

Brought to us by our Appalachian (re: Hill-

billy) correspondent Tim Wineland, his story

painted a most desirous place to park the bike

for the evening.

Located in the wonderful mountains of Ten-

nessee as Tim wrote the cabins had rooms with a

view – serious views – and the cabins had some

very interesting décor and sublime ambiance.

Throw into this Tim’s wonderful writing style and

you’ll find that Nolichuckey Bed & Breakfast

Cabins is a winner in every way.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 23

Go See the Pros that Know How to Ride!www.HanoverPowersport.com

973-428-1735

VISIT US IN OUR NEW LOCATION210 Route 10 West • East Hanover, NJ

1st Runner Up • the charlesworth hotelNew Jersey avenue, Fortescue, NJ • 856-447-4928

Our friends at Weird NJ have called this part

of the Garden state the most desolate. Big state-

ment in the most populated state by area in the

union. Just where would this vast area of un-

population be?

Well you’ll find it right around the town of

Fortescue, where you will also find the

Charlesworth Hotel – the inn with the greatest

sunset on a Jersey shore. It also is probably the

best value too.

Only accessible by the remote County Road

637 the town of Fortescue is truly on its own.

Here the land and waters mix and if you come

in mid-June you will find thousands of horse-

shoe crabs mating along the shore as they have

done for all of history.

The Charlesworth, built in 1925, has very

comfortable rooms and their restaurant is above

and beyond. Remember to bring your own adult

beverage for the stunning sunset across

Delaware Bay, as Cumberland county is….err – dry.

When we say you’re outta here – well, at the Charlesworth you truly are.

We love this place and can’t wait to head back to a truly hidden part of NJ.

1st Place We’re Outta Here 2010 • oz homestay296 Faulkner Road, shinglehouse, pa • 814-697-7218

www.ozhomestay-huntinglodge.com

gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/5hg1bp

The choice for the top spot might already have

been made as we sat outside Ash and Celeine’s

wonderful Oz Homestay in the Alleghenies, right

on the New York / Pennsylvania border.

Sipping some wine in the warm sunshine and

watching perfectly sane folks jump from perfectly

able aircraft to land perfectly in front of us was just

perfect fun.

And, that is what

Oz Homestay is –

pretty much perfect!

From the great road

bringing you to the re-

gion, to the easy going and friendly feel of the

Bed & Breakfast, to the wonderful beds built

of exotic woods by Ash himself – we enjoyed

everything about this place.

Run slightly different than other B & B’s here you get served a gourmet

meal and breakfast and if you want a glass of wine, but might have forgotten

a bottle, don’t feel shy about pouring one of the few on the bar.

The sea salt hot tub will splash away any aches you might have gotten on

the ride up and, if you wish, you can join Ash on a little

stroll – from about 20,000 feet – like our friend Notso

Happy did this day.

What’s not to love about a place like Oz Homestay?

That is why it easily floated in for the #1 spot for We’re

Outta Here 2010!

Mysterious AmericaWithout a doubt our oddest monthly column and one

you’ll never see in other riding publications is Dr. Sey-

mour O’Life’s Mysterious America.

Each month O’Life and his cronies – The Tanked

Bags – search out the weird, wacky and wild things that

are scattered around this great land.

This year, after much battle, the Tanked Bags have

come up with their top three for 2010. We hope you

agree.

2nd Runner Up • the stoogeum museum904 sheble lane, amber, pa • 267-468-0810

www.stoogeum.com

gps download www.sendspace.com/file/ld89qc

Who doesn’t love

the Three Stooges?

What, you don’t? Why

you knucklehead! You

should. This troupe of

comedians are Ameri-

can icons and this year

we found a museum

that celebrates every-

thing Three Stooges.

With nearly 3,500

pieces on display

Amber, Pennsylva-

nia’s Stoogeum Mu-

seum will bring you

back to the days when

slapstick was king and

the stooges ruled.

Spanning nearly 50

years this place, which is only open once a month, is

well worth the planning and effort to see.

Nyuck, nyuck!

24 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

1st Runner Up • the curious case of phineas gagecavedish, Vt

One of the true medical mysteries of American his-

tory, the tale of Phineas Gage is almost beyond belief.

How many guys get

a 13 pound, three and

half foot iron rod driven

through their face and

out there skull and, not

only don’t lose con-

sciousness, but live to

tell the story?

Well, okay there

were some, umm, prob-

lems; but Phineas Gage

did survive and the memorial plaque in a tiny

square in the middle of Vermont will tell you

the entire story – as did our November issue in

which this second runner up saga was told.

Boy, and you think you have headaches!

1st Place Mysterious America 2010 • Farnham colossi14633 winchester grade Rd/ cR 13, unger, west Virginia • 304-258-5977

Is anyone not surprised that our #1 choice for this year’s Mysterious Amer-

ica would be found in West Virginia? We’re not. This state is packed with

oddities. That’s why we love it so. That and the super roads!

Hell, they have a town named Odd. Seriously, they do.

But on a rural road outside Unger you will find the Farnham Colossi; the

personal collection of George and Pam Farnham.

Consisting of a varied assortment of giant people, huge pieces of art, a

number of slightly agitated alpacas, dinosaurs and even a personal roller

coaster - this place is truly what Mysterious America is about.

And, all this is on the Farnham’s personal property. A truly interesting place

to call home. If you visit, you’re welcome, but please do so with respect.

We, and a number of others, dropped by the Colossi during the 2010 Spring

Break, as it was one of the routes to be had that weekend.

Who says we don’t try to show you what America is really like? It’s a mys-

tifying nation. And,

once you visit the Farn-

ham Colossi you too

will agree this is truly

part of the puzzle called

Mysterious America.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 25

Got a hankeringfor some more

Mysterious America? Check out

our friends at weirdnj.com

1019 N. Washington St

Wilkes-Barre, PA 18705

570-824-2453www.twojacks.com

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Ifor one hate to see the end of baseball season. It means, for some, the easy tran-

sition to fulltime football but for riders like myself, it just means that the ride

time we get is shorter and shorter and the big two-wheel tours will morph into

the quick overnighters and sunny afternoon jaunts.

Over the last few seasons though we in the northeast have been treated to a great rally

right around the time some are considering putting the bikes away till next spring - right

around the time that the leaves are doing their ultimate grand finale before jumping off

the branches.

For the third year in a row Mike Friedle and crew of volunteers and like-minded riders

have brought together the Colors in the Catskills rally. Although originally conceived

as a BMW Rally and sponsored by the BMW MOA the rally would be open to all ma-

chines.

Thus we got involved in a small way and tried our best to spread the word.

Held in conjunction with Hunter Mountain’s annual Octoberfest the rally would offer

a very German feel - with plenty of brats, wurts, oompah bands and beer - for when the

bikes were parked for the night.

Colors in the CatskillsColors in the CatskillsColors in the CatskillsColors in the CatskillsThe Finale Rally

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 27

Another great plus was the price.

Like our own Backroads’ events it was

free and they even offered free camp-

ing space for those who wanted it. Dis-

counted rooms were available at the

lodge and as always all the ingredients

for a great time were there - the ques-

tion would be how much water would

be added.

The first Colors in the Catskills

Rally was a brilliant weekend, but last

year the threat of rain kept some away,

especially in the latter part of the

weekend. This year it was a wait and

see sort of deal. A super storm was due

to arrive from the south bringing a

promise of 6 to 12 inches of rain. That

is a lot of moisture in one shot. Re-

member that the Weather Channel has

an unlimited supply of the color green and love to use it.

Right on schedule the rains came in mid-week and we waited to see just

when they would be sliding by to the east on Friday.

With the two GS machines packed and ready to go we took care of the

business side of Backroads while occasionally glancing at the radar and satel-

lite imagery.

We felt a little like NASA as

our scheduled blast off time kept

getting rolled back. 12 became 1,

then 2. Around 2:45 the first

peaks of sun hit the ground and

the once Biblical rains had settled

into a light drizzle.

Our 3 pm liftoff happened after

a sche duled 3 minute hold (why

do they do that?) and in no time

we were rolling north towards

New York state on wet roads with

clearing skies.

I try my best to stay away from

Route 209 heading towards

Kingston. For some reason that

road always puts me to sleep, and

besides Route 42 has at least

some squiggliness to it in places.

Monticello is in a state of per-

petual construction and the wet clay gave our bikes that ADV tough guy

wannabe look simply by riding through the town. Better than a can of

Crudential!

I had us routed through Frost Valley and Big Indian. With the incredible

amounts of rains in the previous few days I was concerned that we’d have to

reroute one way or the other just to get to Hunter Moun-

tain.

The big stream, actually a branch of the Neversink

River, would be a monster and if we were to run into

trouble I was sure it would be there.

Riding up State Road 19 towards Frost Valley the

Neversink was running mean, dark and muddy. I have

seen the damage these normally placid Catskill streams

and rivers can inflict when angry and swollen with the

un-godly amounts of rain - but never right after the

storm had just passed and still visible in the eastern sky.

Pretty much where I thought we’d have a bit of trou-

ble we did. Road workers were there with machinery

and flashing lights. The one crew chief signaled me to

slow and stop.

The waterfall that ran down from the mountain had

gone feral and skimmed the asphalt from the road sur-

face. There was still a road of sorts there and not a

water-filled chasm so we asked how the rest of the road

was.

He said it had seen some better days but if we wanted

to go it was on us and to be careful. I was told Phoenicia

was under two feet of water as the Esopus Creek had

come back to claim the town.

Great - another fun thing to deal with on our way for

a fun in the sun sort of weekend.

Big Indian was beat up but we really had no issues

and the day had turned into a fine late afternoon.

Phoenicia had been under water, but was now just a

town of slick mud and we made tracks up Route 214 to

the lodge at Hunter Mountain.

6653 Carlisle Pike, Mechanicsburg, PA

717-620-0390

Come see the Aprilia Dorsoduro 750, Shiver, Mana and RSV4 at:

Come see the full lineof BMW motorcyclesincluding the R 1200 RT

28 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

By this time the sun was be-

ginning to set and the combina-

tion of our star setting in the

west and the heavy clouds to the

east made for one of the most

colorful evenings I can remem-

ber; a good omen for the fun

weekend ahead.

The morning found a picture

perfect day waiting outside the

window of the room we grabbed

at the lodge.

We rode over to where the

vendor area was located. Nick

Pleznick, Adventurers Work-

shop and Alt Rider had booths

as did many other vendors sell-

ing useful motorcycle related

items. No crap here.

Unlike the previous years,

this year’s rains had caused a

number of Plans B, C and E to

be put into effect, but it all

worked out well in the end.

Max BMW was running their off-road schools and

BMW had a demo truck there as well for those looking

to try a new Beemer.

Max was also the key sponsor for the rally as the

MOA, for whatever reason, decided they didn’t want to

sponsor this year’s Colors in the Catskills and Max and

company stepped in and kept the party going.

Hey MOA? Do you have something against northeast

riders? I’m a member and so is Shira and so were many

of the riders who came to this event.

This rally is about to take off and become a serious

yearly moto-happening. Like regional publications such

as this, regional rallies make the real riding world go

around. They are greatly appreciated and become an-

nual destination rides on their own. Just ask the thou-

sands of riders who head to Lake George each year or

smaller events like the Ramapo 500 or our own Back-

roads rallies.

C’mon you guys did Lima, Ohio ... Yikes! Nuff said.

We were asked

to do a seminar

that day, but de-

clined as we were

up there to ride

and followed our

own advice and

did the Hunter

loop from the Oc-

tober issue; this

ride ran us all over

the region and

with the roads in

such bad shape in

places it was al-

most like our own

little adventure ride. We didn’t need to ride up to the top of the mountain -

as so many did with Max - we just had to ride our route.

Later in the day I had a fellow come over with his clipped Rip & Ride for

this same ride and he thanked us for a great day’s journey. Excellent.

After we returned we parked the bikes for the night and kilted up. It was

time for the second part of the day - Hunter Mountain’s Octoberfest!

Hunter has many great festivals throughout the year and you can plan on

getting to them all. Logging onto www.huntermtn.com is great place to start.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 29

We are partial to the

TAP New York Brewfest -

with us riding up the previ-

ous day, going for a morn-

ing jaunt and then over to

TAP in the afternoon.

This afternoon we had a number of

riders join us that were at our Fall Fiesta

just a few day’s previous - so it was kind

of a continuation of that.

There were plenty of people, many in

German costumes, some great crafts and

of course serious food and great German

beer to be had. A really super time espe-

cially when you combine the German

Festival with the German motorcycles

in addition to all the other great

machines in the parking lots.

The partying lasted well into

the evening and with the mixing

of so many great ingredients -

the colors, the bikes and the fes-

tival it made for a superb time.

Sunday we bounced around

the vendors once again and made

a few purchases for the Back-

roads’ 2010 Holiday Gift Guide.

Before we left we searched

out Mike Friedle to thank him

once again for putting together,

against some serious odds at

times, a really classy rally.

With the weather cooperating

and some help from Max

BMW - he once again pulled

off a great time for a good

number of riders in the north-

east.

We liked it so much that our

final days of Backroads Fall

Fiesta will end right there at

the Colors in the Catskills

2011 Rally.

We hope to see you there!

30 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

BERGEN SPORT CYCLES

30 US H’Way 46 EastLodi, NJ 07644973-478-7711

bergensportcycle.com

Ride More, Stress Less

Est. 1968

Think Spring!

Rally coordinator Mike Friedle (left)

words: Ken Freund

Riding a modern motorcycle coast-to-coast is quite an undertaking, one

that most riders are very proud of afterwards. There are road hazards, dan-

gerous weather conditions and breakdowns to contend with. But what if that

motorcycle was at least 95 years old?

For 45 adventurous riders, the 2010 Motorcycle Can-

nonball Run offered the chance to owners of pre-1916

machines to learn firsthand what early motorcyclists

experienced nearly a century ago. It was named in

honor of Erwin “Cannonball” Baker, who from 1910

through the late ‘30s became known for setting 143

cross-country motorcycle and auto endurance records,

totaling about 5,500,000 miles. These included an 11-

day coast-to-coast ride on an Indian motorcycle back

in 1914, when the few roads that existed were unpaved.

The 2010 Cannonball Run began on September 10

in Kitty Hawk, North Carolina and ended at the Pacific

Ocean, followed a 3,294-mile southerly path with

overnight stops at Greenville, Concord and Maggie

Valley, NC, Chattanooga, TN, Tuscumbia, AL, Tupelo, MS and a rest day

in Ft. Smith, AR. Then on to Lawton, OK, Clovis, NM, Albuquerque and

Gallup, NM, Flagstaff, AZ, and Victorville CA before reaching the western

terminus of Route 66 in Santa Monica.

For these antiques, the Motorcycle Cannonball Run had three competi-

tion classes: Class 1 for single-cylinder machines with one gear. Class 2

for multi-cylinder machines with single speeds. Class 3 is for motorcycles

with multi-speed transmissions and includes machines with either two-

speed or three-speed transmissions. Rules were liberal and for safety or re-

liability more-modern parts such as front brakes could be used: “As long

as the engine in your machine is original then it’s eligible to run for the

prize. Any reproduction chassis or parts should be as they were originally.”

Among the contestants were two women: American Chris Sommer Sim-

mons, who also had an all-woman chase crew, and Katrin Boehner of Ingol-

stadt, Germany, who was accompanied by her husband Dieter Eckel, who

rode a 1913 BSA.

Boehner rode a 1907

J.A.P. and ended up win-

ning her class, while her

hubby had to drop out due

to mechanical problems.

Competitor’s support

vehicles could not follow

their riders, only official

sweep crews on motorcy-

cles with specially made sidecars could aid those having problems enroute.

Riders who could not repair their motorcycles and then continue under their

own power had their bikes loaded on the sidecars and carried to the end of

that leg, where their support crews waited. Riders lost one point for every

mile they do not ride themselves.

Each day of the Cannonball

Run had its own unique chal-

lenges. There was drenching rain

and scorching heat and rider ex-

haustion. Riding motorcycles that

are nearly a century old has its

risks too. Heavy downpours in-

creased dangers to riders, when

the route was redirected in New

Mexico from a closed Route 66 to

I-40 with its heavy traffic.

Chase riders helped tow bikes

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 31

EVENT RECAP • 2010 CANNONBALL RUN

Motorcycling the old-school way

that couldn’t make it up long steep grades like Magazine Mountain, and New

Mexico’s Continental Divide at 7,275 feet elevation. Some riders pushed or

pedaled their under-powered machines, while others burned up belts and

clutches. There were many breakdowns, including blown engines, carburetor

and magneto failures. Connecticut magazine publisher Buzz Kanter finally

gave up in Arizona after rebuilding his engine, fighting hard starting, magneto

and other problems along the way. In the desert near Laughlin, Nevada Dave

Thompson’s 1914 Indian burst into flames. Thompson stopped, laid his bike

over, beat the fire out and got to work getting his Indian running again. Even

Buddy Stubbs, the owner of a mega Harley-Davidson dealership and museum

in Phoenix, Arizona, had to ship his 1915 Excelsior back home due to exten-

sive engine repairs needed.

On Sunday, September 26, the remaining motorcycles grouped up in a

parking lot in Santa Monica, for a finale at the pier. At 1pm, 37 motorcycles

crossed the finish line, although a few that had major problems were carried

upon special sidecars powered by newer—but still vintage—motorcycles.

Karen Davidson (daughter

of Willie G.) greeted riders

and we spoke with some of

the tired competitors, who

were surrounded by their

families and fans. Besides

the toll of tough conditions,

several riders told us the

Run cost them around 30 to

40 grand, although every-

one we asked said they’d

do it again! Rumors have it

that another ride is possible

in 2011, perhaps with motorcycles up to about 1929. For more information

on the Cannonball Run, visit www.motorcyclecannonball.com.

32 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

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They’ve been a staple of the sporting motorcycle world for decades: sport-

bikes that blend top-shelf engine and handling performance with a high de-

gree of comfort, practicality and devastating good looks. Kawasaki has built

plenty over the years, from the original Ninja 900R of the 1980s, to the ZX-

11 of the ’90s, and the ZZR1200 of the ‘00s – standout performers that are

also easy to live with, day in and day out.

For 2011, an all-new model slots into this legendary and ultra-capable cate-

gory – Kawasaki’s new Ninja 1000. Like the original, which debuted to an

amazing chorus of press and customer kudos back in 1986, the new Ninja 1000

offers an alluring blend of capability and technology, from the very latest race-

track components, to astounding engine and chassis performance, and to cut-

ting-edge styling that’ll stop you in your tracks the instant you lay your eyes

on one.

It all starts with a core motorcycle – frame, engine, suspension – that’s so

good, so flexible and so downright capable it’s been wowing press and cus-

tomers worldwide all year long: Kawasaki’s amazing Z1000 super-standard.

Using the Z1000’s new-think engine and chassis package as a starting point,

Kawasaki engineers added radical, knife-edged bodywork along with a host

of cool features that push the Ninja 1000’s performance, capability and flexi-

bility envelopes to amazing heights.

Ninja 1000 motivation comes by way of a highly ad-

vanced open-class powerplant – a 1,043cc, DOHC, liq-

uid-cooled, 16-valve inline-four featuring a long-stroke

design for instantaneous power, a slick-shifting six-

speed gearbox, and no-fuss electronic fuel injection for

the type of seamless throttle response – warm or cold –

that makes short work of tricky traffic, higher-speed

backroad situations and everything in between.

Power? There’s a ton of the stuff, but the real magic

of this engine is its flexible, midrange-heavy thrust that

accelerates you out of corners and away from stops in a

satisfying manner that’s sure to keep you entertained.

Digital fuel injection helps, and the quartet of 38mm

Keihin downdraft throttle bodies slam the perfect mix

of fuel and air into the combustion chambers with help

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 33

The folks at RawHyde Adventure Riding Schools

are thrilled to announce the release of their Adventure

Riders Wine. We are too.

Now it may seem funny that a motorcycle company

is offering up a wine, but if you have ever seen their

wine cellar you would understand why.

The wines are a collaboration between RawHyde

and Mike Kumelis of Mantra Wines in Sonoma

County, California. At the moment

you can order two excellent wines, the

Adventure Riders Dirty Cabernet or

the Grand Syrah. They have a third

wine coming soon which will be a

Bordeaux blend, which is to be

known as RawHyde Red.

These wines are perfect for the Ad-

venture Rider after a hard day on the

Dalton Highway in Alaska or Ruta 40

in Patagonia.

To see more and order your own

vino log onto www.rawhyde-offroad.com/wine.

ADVENTURE RIDERS WINEFOR ADVENTURING WINE DRINKERS

2011 KAWASAKI NINJA 1000

SPORTBIKE? SPORT TOURER?BEST OF BOTH WORLDS?

from an advanced ECU, oval sub-throttles and a

cool air intake system that routes fresh air to the

airbox via ducts at the front of the bike. A balance

shaft driven off the crankshaft keeps the solidly

mounted engine as smooth as possible, while a rad-

ically designed 4-into-2-into-2 catalyzer-equipped

exhaust system offers a pleasing growl without

being overly loud along with the cleanest possible

emissions. It’s a perfect engine for a road-going

sportbike – smooth, powerful and flexible. Like the

superb-handling Z1000, the new Ninja 1000 features an

advanced aluminum frame similar in design to that of the all-conquer-

ing Ninja ZX-10R sportbike. The lightweight cage curves over the engine,

cradling it from above and bolting solidly to it in three places, with a rubber-

backed fourth mount provided for added vibration isolation and torsional

rigidity. This design allowed engineers to keep the waist of the bike very nar-

row for superb rider interface and high levels of comfort and control. The

main frame and swingarm pivot pieces are cast as a single unit, with welds

eliminated wherever possible for seamless aesthetics.

The wheels, brakes and suspension parts that control that frame/engine

duo are thoroughly advanced. Up front is a stout 41mm inverted fork that’s

fully adjustable for spring preload, rebound and compression damping – just

what you need for dialing things in perfectly for your weight and riding style.

In back is a horizontal back-link shock system featuring a damper mounted

nearly horizontally above the swingarm for optimal mass centralization and

excellent heat resistance. The gas/oil shock is adjustable for both spring pre-

load and rebound damping, and tuned for effective performance everywhere

from backroad sport riding to bopping along a pothole-infested city street.

As a package, the Ninja 1000’s suspension is designed to provide the rider

with clear communication of what’s happening at the contact patches, while

still taking enough edge off the bumps to provide a comfortable ride on

longer trips.

Strong and responsive stopping power is provided by the new Ninja’s rac-

ing-spec brakes. The dual 300mm petal-type rotors up front are squeezed

by ultra-rigid radially mounted calipers pressurized by an equally race-spec

radial pump master cylinder. In back is another high-tech disc setup. Braking

power and feel at both ends are amazing, giving rookies and pros alike a feel-

ing of confidence while aboard.

The wheels holding those brakes – lightweight six-spoke supersport-style

hoops – are also the latest in production technology. They not only reduce

unsprung weight, which allows the suspension to function optimally, but they

carry the latest in radial tire technology. The result is excel-

lent grip, precise handling and a promised ex-

tended tire life.

But perhaps our favorite aspect of the new

Ninja 1000 is its racy, full-coverage bodywork.

Kawasaki has blessed the new bike with a

thoroughly radical look, one that’s fresh and

riveting. But despite its edgy, rakish appear-

ance, the bodywork cleaves enough of a hole

in the atmosphere to offer a reasonably

quiet cocoon for the rider. A manually ad-

justable, three-position windscreen

helps here, allowing riders to pick just

the right setting for their height and

riding style. Integrated front turn sig-

nals, a ZX-6R-spec front fender, a styl-

ish tail section, a wildly styled exhaust

system and a full-featured instrument

panel help complete the look. It’s one

you won’t soon forget.

And despite its radical stance, the new Ninja 1000 retains comfortable er-

gonomics. The handlebars are mounted higher than on a supersport machine

and the pegs a touch lower, all of which makes the Ninja 1000 a very capable

sport-tourer, and certainly a sportbike you could spend the day aboard with-

out undue strain. To sweeten the day- or weekend-trekking deal even more,

Kawasaki offers a line of optional touring-oriented accessories, including

hard-case saddlebags, a top trunk, heated grips and more.

All things we like to see for Backroads exploring.

It’s great to find such all-around functionality and performance in a sport

motorcycle these days, with many bikes so specialized they’re almost one-

trick ponies. But the 2011 Ninja 1000 is a different animal – one with wide-

ranging talent in sport, sport-touring and commuting roles. And because it’s

based on a motorcycle – the Z1000 – so all-around competent and happy in

its own skin, you know the newest Ninja will be a hit. Chalk up another great

do-it-all sportbike to the Kawasaki folks.

34 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 35

138 Orange Ave (Rt. 202) • Suffern, NY845.357.1190

www.locomotionpowersports.com

Don’t shovel snow this winter!Let us install a plow setup on

your current, or new, ATV or UTV!

Get your current ATV or UTV serviced &

ready for winter duty. Contact Adam in our

Service Dept. to schedule an appointment.

WE SERVICE ALL MAKES & MODELS

Shira Kamil

Picking up my new F650GS in mid-Sep-

tember, it wasn’t long before I had about

3,000 miles on the clock and one sore tush as

well.

The bike is great, but the stock saddle left

much to be desired. Halfway through each

day I was making excuses to stop for lunch –

simply to get off the bike and stretch the

glutes.

Looking for a quick and easy install solu-

tion, I put in a call and made an order from

Sargent Cycle in Florida. We have had their

saddles before, on my Ducati Monster and

Brian’s VFR, and found their fit and finish to

be top notch.

Continuing in the tradition of meticulously

designed and produced saddles, Sargent World Sport Performance Seat offers

up seatage for the BMW F 650. This saddle also fits the F800GS.

Utilizing the latest design techniques, exacting manufacturing processes,

and superior materials, each World Sport seat pan is precision-molded for

superior fit and installs just like the stock seat (no additional hardware re-

quired). The BMW F 650 / 800 GS features Sargent’s injection-molded Poly-

Tec base pan. This super tough, lightweight material provides an exceptional,

high-performance seat foundation.

Sargent’s Super Cell Atomic Foam suspension is their own unique and pro-

prietary blend and offers resilience, firmness, and vibration-absorption qual-

ities – just what I was looking for. In addition, the seat shape has been

enhanced in two important ways: The seating platform is level, front to back

(unlike the OEM seat) allowing for more freedom of movement and it is

wider and slightly “dished” (side to side), resulting in drastically improved

lateral weight and pressure distribution. While the stock seat allowed for

front/back movement to ease the pain, the Sargent saddle was that much more

comfortable that movement was not an issue.

While many a custom seat adds height to

the saddle to make for a more cushy ride, the

Sargent saddle was spot on, if not a bit lower.

When one is vertically challenged, this makes

a big difference.

The World Sport Performance Seat for the

BMW F650GS features a high performance

synthetic seat covering, which in our past ex-

perience, has lasted for years.

The F650GS is a small bike and could use

more storage space and Sargent comes

through on this with a built-in storage area in

addition to the OEM tool holder.

This saddle is offered in both the Classic

Sport-Touring model and the Enduro model.

You can choose different welt (piping) to

color match your machine and in a few weeks after ordering Lee, our UPS

guru, drove up with a big white box addressed to me.

Normally, with aftermarket parts, I let the pros or, in some cases lacking a

handy pro I’ll let “Pit-Boy Brian” do the installation, but the Sargent saddle

is so precisely like the stock seat that I simply popped the old one off and

popped the Sargent on. In seconds I had an all day ride.

On the road it was apparent how evil the stock saddle was.

It constantly amazes me that manufacturers can make such great improve-

ments with engines, suspension and tires and never seem to address one of

the few places that a rider’s body actually touches the machine.

Thankfully the folks at Sargent have us all covered on that front.

The Saddle for the F650GS lists $479.95 with a custom welt and for a bit

more a heating option is available.

Sargent has saddle applications for a large number of machines so check

their website www.sargentcycle.com for availability and pricing.

Thank you Sargent! Once again you have saved my butt!

36 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

PRODUCT REVIEWSARGENT SADDLE FOR BMW F650 GS

EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTINGEvery Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY.10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221

First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Be-vans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for aride or head out on your own

Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do somebenchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish

Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black RiverBarn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands wel-come. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918

JANUARY 20117-9 • 34th North American International Motorcycle SuperShow. Toronto InternationalCentre, Ontario, Canada. Over 500 exhibitors and 1,000 motorcycles on display in7 gianthalls. A true shopping extravaganza and unveiling of 2011 new motorcycles. 3 Days of‘Everything in Motorcycling’ including touring, cruisers, racing, performance bikes, vin-tage, classics and custom bike showcase. Live bands, fashion shows, special guests andclub/assocation displays. on-site restaurants and Beer Garden. For full information visitwww.supershowevents.com

14-16 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show at Washington, DC • www.motor-cycleshows.com

21-23 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show at Javits Center, New York, NY •www.motorcycleshows.com

FEBRUARY 201119-20 • 93rd running of the Crotona Midnight Run. Longest continuously run motorcycleevent in the USA. Competitive road run with an average speed of 30mph. All qualifiedfinishers receive medallion with trophies for 1, 2, and 3 place in expert and novice class.$20/bike. Sign in: Sat, Feb. 19 10:30pm • Key Time: Midnight. Nathan/Kolh ParkingLot, Central Park Ave, Yonkers, NY • 201-286-9346 • www.ramapomc.org

APRIL 20119-10 • Rumble and Roar Motorcycle Show, Center of Progress Bldg, NYS Fairgrounds,Syracuse, NY. Sat. 11am-6pm • Sun. 11am-5pm. New, custom, vintage motorcycles,parts, accessories, leather, destinations, clubs, chili cook-off, beer samplings, music, fash-ion shows, bikini contest, product seminar, Ms. Rumble & Roar contest and more. Formore details visit www.rumbleroar.com • 888-334-2856

MAY 201113-15 • Join Morton’s BMW for their first-ever Spring Fling Rally held at the historic Nat-ural Bridge hotel in the scenic Shenandoah Valley in VA. Just off I-81 and the Blue Ridgeparkway, the rally will feature self-guided rides, both on and off-road, through the gor-geous countryside, a catered barbecue (or vegetarian) dinner Saturday night, door prizesand more. Vendors welcome. $45/pp registration. For more info, visit www.mortons-bmw.com/springfling_2011.html or call 540-891-9844.

19-22 • 13th Annual BACKROADS’ Spring Break. This year we’ll be heading to theFinger Lakes - Canandaigua, to be specific. We’ll spend three nights at the Inn on theLake Resort while enjoying the leisurely riding, beautiful scenery, gorgeous gorges andcomradery. Limited rooms, as always, so book yours today. Special rates apply, soask for the Backroads Group when booking • www.theinnonthelake.com • 800-228-2801

19-22 • Concours Owners Group Spring Fling Northeast Area Rally. Penn Wells Lodge,Wellsboro, PA. Nearby camping also available. Saturday buffet dinner included in rallyfee. Detauks abd fee information online www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591

JULY 201117-24 • Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as wejoin up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of inthe past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have aday’s ride to Venice. For all the information you’ll need to book this great trip, pleaseemail Doris at Edelweiss Travel: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.co m

AUGUST 20118-12 • Concours Owners Group National Rally. Green Mountains at Mount Snow, VT.Rally fee includes buffet dinner. Discount for COG members. For more information pleasevisit www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591

SEPTEMBER 201126-Oct. 2 • Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally. We are still finalizing the details, but the gist willbe: We’ll start in Sturbridge, MA on Sept. 26 for a night at the Publick House Inn. Fromhere we’ll roll on up to Boothbay Harbor, Maine and spend a couple of days exploringthe coastal towns and roads of the Pine Tree State. Off we then go to our friends at theGray Ghost Inn for an evening and we’ll finish up our journey at Hunter Mountain andthe Colors in the Catskill Rally. If this sounds like a great plan, stay tuned and we’ll getyou booking information as soon as we can. Questions? 973-948-4176

MORE EVENTS ON NEXT PAGE

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 37

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Adventure BMWChesapeake, VA • 757-523-7055

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MOTORCYCLES, MIDGETS AND MAYHEM TOURKev-Marv Productions now in its 15th year presents exciting motorcycle showsFeaturing the Half Pint Brawlers and the Finnegan 10-in-One Circus SideshowMotorcycles, Midgets and Mayhem is the rally cry of the 2011 Northeast MotorcycleShows this winter season kicking off Jan. 8th!

Kev-Marv Productions will spread its own brand of excitement and mayhem across theNortheast with incredible entertainment at all eight of its 2011 shows, including twonew venues: Chantilly, VA and Providence, RI. And of course all your favorite dealers,vendors, motorcycles and merchandise can be found under one roof.

This year’s dynamic 2011 show schedule is:

Jan. 8-9 – Providence, RI, Rhode Island Convention CenterJan. 15-16 – Salem, NH, Rockingham Race TrackJan. 21-23 – Reading, PA, Greater Reading Expo CenterJan. 29-30 – Boston, MA, World Trade CenterFeb. 19-20 – Chantilly, VA, Dulles Expo CenterFeb. 26-27 – Hartford, CT, Connecticut Expo CenterMarch 12-13 – Wilmington, MA, Shriner’s AuditoriumMarch 19-20 – Philadelphia, PA, Greater Philadelphia Expo Center

Coming directly from SPIKE TV, see the "Half Pint Brawlers" featuring “Puppet” at everyNortheast Motorcycle Show. A Chicago native, Puppet is the founder, leader and show-booker for the Half Pint Brawlers. These self-proclaimed hardcore little person wrestlers,led by their gregarious handler, Puppet entertain crowds across the U.S. with theirunique brand of wrestling prowess.

Step right up and don’t be shy, you may not believe your eyes! The antics of theFinnegan 10-in-One Circus Sideshow are definitely not for the squeamish! See whatthese incredible performers pull off: a light bulb for lunch, a nap on nails, or even worse,the suspenseful drill you just have to see for yourself!

This travelling side show has been entertaining thousands in the Northeast for yearsand now they are exclusively performing at the 2011 Northeast Motorcycle Shows.

Of course the real attraction is the motorcycles! Vendors from near and far will showand sell their wares during these much anticipated events. Tickets range from $6 and$7 for children to $13 and $15 for adults. For more information and full details visit tewebsite at www.kevmarv.com

Jay Duchin

2010 marked the 17th an-

niversary of European Mo-

torcycle day at Larz

Anderson Auto Museum.

Each year the turn out of ma-

chines seems to get better and

better. The grassy setting cre-

ates an intimate backdrop to

this wonderful event. One

quickly forgets you’re only

minutes from downtown

Boston as you walk between

the stainless and polished bits. That being said, you do have to watch out

for those MA drivers on your journey (I can say that because I am one). The

majority of the machines are from Italy and Germany but the mix of other

marques really makes this event so interesting. Attendance did feel a bit off

from past years but there was no lack of MotoPorn on display. There’s a little

bit of everything from modern sportbikes, to trials bikes, to real choppers

made with Triumph engines.

In the early years of the

event, the celebration hap-

pened in mid October, not

the best time to hold an out-

door motorcycle event in

New England. It was a wel-

come change when last year,

the organizers moved the

date to September. The ma-

jority of riders show up

wearing full face helmets,

reflective vests and crash

worthy attire. Everyone is wel-

come but for some reason, the

open pipe/smoke show crowds

stay away. Attendence during

the six hour show draws a very

large crowd of people. There’s

plenty of room to see what’s

on display and you can spend

as long as you like with each

bike. For this rider, it’s a truly

welcome change to have a

whisper quiet show (with

the exception of some

music being played over

the speakers).

This event is more than

just a bike show. Your ad-

mission fee allows you

entry to the Larz Ander-

son Auto Museum. The

Museum’s home is the

original 19th century Anderson

family “carriage house” modeled

after the Chateau-de-Chaumont in

France. It is virtually a French

style castle amidst a spectacular

park.

Boston architect Edmund March

Wheelright, creator of some of

Boston’s best known land marks,

(Continued on Page 41)

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 39

Get out of the city and head to the country…

Country Rode Motowerks.

Sat. Jan. 8th @ 2pmPhil Freeman from MotoQuest Tours Alaskan Slideshow

Sat. Jan. 15thAutocom Rep on hand to discuss communication systems

Sat. Jan. 22nd @ 1pmAlaska, You Can Do It Two-Up! by Karen and Brian Managan

Check our website for all upcoming events

EVENT RECAP LARZ ANDERSON EUROPEAN MOTORCYCLE DAY

Joni Mitchell sang “that you don’t now what you got – till it’s gone.” The

same train of thought can be applied directly to the suspension on your mo-

torcycle.

When bikes roll out of the showroom, for the most part, they are suspended

by basic shocks and forks - nothing too special here.

After 10,000 or so miles these stock units, and their usefulness, slowly

begin to fade away. The key point here is “slowly.” Like the proverbial frog

slowly boiled in water - you don’t know it’s happening till it’s happened.

Sometimes the best way to realize that your

stock suspension is heading south is to put on

a new pair of shocks.

Yes, we know we’re talking big bucks here,

especially when it is a leap of faith. But, just

like the “Oh my God” feeling you get when

you replace your tires - replacing your shock

or shocks in our BMW R1200GS’ case - will

show you just how poorly your bike was han-

dling, for now it will be handling far superior.

With a year and a half of hard riding on our

2009 GS we thought, although the bike still

felt great, that new shocks might make a huge

difference in the machine’s performance, han-

dling and comfort.

There are a number of alternative suspen-

sions on the market these days, some better

known than others.

When time came to change the shocks we talked to the folks at EPM, in

Manalapan, NJ, Well-known mavens of motorcycle suspension. They rec-

ommended suspension components from the Dutch company HyperPro.

Hyperpro has developed the new 3D shock and is able to guarantee 100%

quality because their shocks are manufactured totally in-house.

All of the light-weight billet aluminum parts have been CNC machined in

the Hyperpro factory in Europe. They control the entire process insuring the

highest quality. And, quality is what high-end suspension is all about. Thus

the booko bucks.

These shocks are really stunning to look at and handle. In fact, when we

first received the HyperPro shocks we just let them sit up on the shelf like

fine purple pieces of motoart.

As we said there are a number of well-known suspension companies

around the globe - Ohlins, Penske, Works – but we went for HyperPro and

here are the reasons why.

It begins with the way they are de-

signed, created and finished. With Hyper-

Pro shocks the compression and rebound

damping are both completely adjustable

with high and low speed adjustments for

compression damping. They use a use a

rising-rate full progressively wound

springs for better absorption of small

bumps and pavement “chop” while still

offering good control on bigger bumps or

for higher rates of speed.

The shaft has a larger diameter than the

competition allowing for more strength

and more oil displacement, which allows

better fine tuning of damping. The larger

diameter also allows for greater durability.

We have seen some shafts have critical

failure- usually in critical areas that can be

fatal - and we never want to be stuck somewhere because the shaft on our

shock has bent or snapped.

With HyperPro shocks the length of the 3D shock can easily be adjusted

by specifying the LA option on most of the shocks; and the Hyperpro 3D

shock utilizes bladder technology in the reservoir to separate the oil from the

nitrogen gas. Other manufacturers use a floating piston. A floating piston has

to overcome stiction before it can react. A rubber bladder does not “know”

40 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

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friction and reacts smoother and faster to pressure changes. This allows for

smoother and faster reaction over rough surfaces.

These springs comes in a bright purple and it’s hard not to notice when ap-

proaching a bike that it is shod with HyperPro technology.

Once installed the fun really begins.

As great as any shock will be they will only do their job correctly if the

suspension is “dialed” in for the rider. When you order your shocks from

EPM there will be a number of questions. Riding style, your weight – things

of that nature - and there is a reason for this.

Klaus Huenecke. Mr. EPM.

Klaus is renowned for his expertise in all types of suspension technology.

When you buy your suspension from EPM, you get the benefit of this tremen-

dous experience. And when you order a Hyperpro shock, it will arrived al-

ready set up based on Klaus’s experience; which means most customers will

barely need to make any adjustments to get the best suspension performance.

Still we couldn’t leave well enough alone. After a few thousand miles we

began to play with the settings.

Since the installation the HyperPro shocks - that were already light years

beyond the stock suspension – we began to make small changes to the shocks

and things began to change – for the better. At one point both front and rear

units really ‘clicked in’ and the ride became even more impressive.

Since then the GS has responded better, been far more comfortable and

has a very “planted” feel over all sorts of surfaces and weather conditions.

To steal from myself - the difference between the stock OEM suspension

and the HyperPro suspension is more than night and day – it is more like a

dark stormy winter night and a bright warm summer day. And, who doesn’t

want to ride on a bright warm summer day?

EPM has HyperPro suspensions for most modern machines and they even

have other applications for older machines with their YSS- series shocks.

Be aware that high-end suspension like HyperPro are not cheap and, de-

pending on machine these shocks can run any where between $600 and

$1,000 – but if you are serious about riding, and do not have another fun

cash-sucking habit like sailing or flying, then invest the cash. You will be

shocked at how much better your motorcycle’s ride will improve.

To find out more call Klaus at EPM toll free at 877-786-6543. To see if

they have suspension for your machine log in at www.epmperf.com.

WASHINGTON CYCLE WORKS

WCWWashington Cycle Works

Junction of Rtes. 57/31 • Washington, NJ 07882

908-835-0043

Closed Sun-Mon • Open: Tues-Thurs 9:30AM-7PM • Fri 9:30AM-6PM • Sat 9AM-3PM

www.washingtoncycleworks.com

Made in the USA

Built to last!

Check out the Vanson line ofAmerican-made leather apparel

Velocity Suits • Corbra II

We cater to Road Racersand support allTrack Day Organizations

One-piece Road Racesuits in stock

Check us for Suspension Setups

Gift Certificates Available

SiDi Boots In StockRace Styles: Vertigo • Vertigo Corsa

SUSSEXMOTORSPORTS446 Route 23 • Sussex, NJ • Located across from the A&P Shopping Plaza

973-875-3640 • Open Tuesday thru SaturdayVisit us at www.sussexmotorsportsnj.com

designed the ela borate three

story structure. Here is

where the Anderson cars and

horses first were housed,

serviced, and displayed.

There are gabled roofs, tur-

rets, driver’s quarters, ivy

walls and cathedral ceilings.

This jewel of a building is

surrounded by Larz Ander-

son Park, part of the original

Anderson estate, with a land-

scaped pond and rolling lawns shaded by century old trees. Sixty-four acres

of picnic spots, play areas, and a magnificent view of Boston’s skyline, are

here for everyone’s enjoyment. It is a spectacular back drop for European mo-

torcycles and their admirers.

In an area known for its wealth of museums and cultural institutions the

Larz Anderson Auto Museum is unique. It features the oldest collection of

historic automobiles in the nation.

What the collection lacks in quantity is made up by the quality of unre-

stored treasures. The museum prides itself on collecting originals with min-

imal restoration. Cars in the collection range from brass era to a modern

Ferrari F1 car.

If you tire of walking the grounds, you can visit the vendor tents where

local motorcycle shops and clubs sell things from shirts to moto-memorabilia.

Last but not least, the Ducati demo truck was on hand for riders wanting to

sample the latest and greatest from Italy. Rarely do we need excuses to ride

but if you need one, European Motorcycle Day is great destination.

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE WINNERS OF EMDBEST IN SHOW:

#25, 1958 BMW RENNSPORT, OWNED BY DOUG MORRISON

CONCOURS AWARD OF EXCELLENCE:#60, 1966 DUCATI MARK 3, JACK BRANDENBURG

LARZ ANDERSON AWARD:#49, 1910 MOTOSACOCHE MODEL M, OWNED BY MARK GITTSON

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 41

AEROSTICH CO2 POWER KIT

No matter where you are, this compact, lightweight kit gives you air. Five threaded 16 gram CO2 cartridges, a control valve

and a 3.5” flexible valve adapter hose, all store neatly inside a 5”×5” nylon envelope bag. Enough air to refill a flat tire or

anything else that requires inflation on the road or around camp. 5”x5”, 12 oz. $24.00 from Aerostich - To get a free catalog,

call 800 222 1994 or email catalog@aerostich.com.

AEROSTICH GEAR RACK SYSTEMS

Caching all of your riding gear in one place will ensure you are ready to go at a moment’s notice,

whether you feel the need for speed or just a gallon of milk from the corner store. These riding gear racks both offer a no-frills in-

dustrial design that provides convenient, functional all-in-one storage for your gear, and probably will outlast the wall they’re screwed

to, too. The two 24”x14” chrome wire racks of the Aerostich Ride-Ready Gear Rack provide exceptional airflow for helmets,

boots, gloves, tank bags, etc, while a 1” lip ensures gear stays put. Mount the sturdy 34” chrome posts to any wall and adjust shelf

height to match your specific gear storage needs. Alternatively, the Aerostich Gear Rack offers an 11” deep x 20” wide shelf with

a slotted pattern to ensure exceptional ventilation, and a sturdy stainless steel coat rack bar to suspend an array of riding suits, jackets,

pants, electrics, and fleece. Both storage systems provide ample space for two helmets, a helmet and a pair of boots, a pair of boots and

gloves…you get the idea. Mount one of these racks in your garage, entryway, hallway or bedroom and make

your gear instantly ready for any riding mission. Wall attachment hardware not included: Visit a local hardware

store for appropriate (drywall, brick, or wood paneling, etc...) fasteners. Russian military fighter aircrews

based in Murmansk use racks exactly like these. We imagine.

To get a free catalog, call 800-222-1994 or email catalog@aerostich.com.

GERBING’S NEW HEATED SOCKS

If you get the kind of cold feet that don’t involve a walk down the aisle, then Gerbing’s has the solution. In-

troducing the all-new Gerbing’s Heated Socks. Made from a perspiration-wicking 4-way stretch material,

these socks are the ultimate in cold weather comfort for your feet. First, they’re extra tall, so they ride up

over your calf. No matter how tall or short your boots are, these socks work. Second, the socks are cut specifically for left and right feet,

so they fit you even more snugly to deliver extra heat, particularly to your toes. Finally, that heat comes from Gerbing’s patented Microwire

heating system, with wires so thin you won’t feel them. And with heat delivered both above and below your feet, you’ll be riding wrapped

in soothing comfort. The new Gerbing’s Heated Socks. Give cold feet the boot. Gerbing’s Heated Socks. $89.95. www.gerbing.com

GERBING’S NEW HYBRID LT JACKETS LETS YOU TAKE YOUR HEAT WITH YOU

Riders love Gerbing’s heat but they didn’t like disconnecting from their bike’s electrical power to take a break. With

the new Gerbing’s Men’s and Women’s Hybrid LT Jackets, you don’t have to leave the heat back where you left your

handlebars.

Made from Cordura and styled to flatter, the Hybrid LT Jackets boast ballistic-grade Cordura in the shoulders and

elbows, and removable armor throughout. Add in Gerbing’s patented Microwire Heat Technology and you’ll get that

soothing blanket of warmth Gerbing’s is known for.

Yet what makes these jackets even more special are their Hybrid capabilities. Paired to Gerbing’s optional 12V FlexPack

Battery (which fits in its own pocket), the LT Jackets can deliver heat both on and off the bike. You can plug into the

bike, as with any Gerbing’s motorcycle product. Or step off the bike and the power of the FlexPack takes over. Con-

trolled by a 3-position remote control it can deliver up to 3 hours of heat. Get back on the bike, plug in, and the FlexPack

charges up from the bike’s electrical system while you ride. Or if you want, ride wirelessly and just power the jacket

from the FlexPack.

On-bike heat, off-bike heat, with on-bike recharging and wireless remote control. And they look great, too. The new

Gerbing’s Hybrid LT Jackets and FlexPack Battery Kit. Now you can have it all.

Gerbing’s Men’s or Women’s Hybrid LT Jackets, MSRP $299.95. 12V/8Ah FlexPack Battery, Wall Charger, and Remote

Control, $189.95. (available approx. early 2011).

HELMETLOK • A NEW TWIST ON THE CARABINER

The HelmetLok is a carabiner with a twist...it LOCKS. It’ll secure your helmet anywhere on the bike,

and gives you peace of mind when you’re exploring on foot. Unlike a typical carabiner where the latch

opens inward and restricts the size of the opening, the HelmetLok latch opens OUTWARD. This allows

it to fit around handlebars, frame tubes, or other parts of your motorcycle measuring up

to 1-1/8” diameter. The latching lever contains a programmable 3-pin com-

bination lock which you can change anytime.

HelmetLok eliminates the need to mount a permanent lock

on the bike, or keep track of a key. If there’s a place to

hook the carabiner, there’s always a place to lock your

helmet. HelmetLok performs these tasks: Locks your hel-

met to the motorcycle. Serves as a belt hook for keys or

other gear. Serves as a general purpose camping carabiner.

Secures loads to your bike when used with tie downs. Se-

cures jackets and other gear when used with a cable. Other uses,

limited only by your imagination. Single price $25, 2 for $45, 3 for

$60. Distributed by BestRest Products 425-673-1023 www.HelmetLok.US

42 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

P R O D U C T S P O T L I G H T S

Recipe for Mayhem

The El Centro Motorcycle Crash

As many of you know this has been a very bad year for we riders. Large

group crashes and accidents have repeatedly made the headlines around the

country

The latest one happened on Saturday November 13th, 2010 outside El Cen-

tro, California – just north of the Mexican border and east of San Diego.

Back in the northeast a group of rid-

ers met that Sunday for a ride and the

El Centro crash was a major topic.

The crash occurred when a group of

21 motorcyclists from the San Diego

County-based Saddletramps Motor-

cycle Club were traveling east on

Highway 98. A gold Honda Civic

with California plates attempted to

pass the entire group by pulling into

the westbound lane, the CHP said.

Carlos Ramirez Bobadilla, who was

driving a Dodge Avenger westbound,

tried to swerve to the right shoulder to

avoid the oncoming Civic and over-

compensated by swerving left. He lost

control and slammed head-on into at

least six motorcyclists, according to

officials.

Bobadilla, whose wife was killed in

the accident, was released when a

blood alcohol test showed he was not

under the influence, said Officer

Pablo Torrez, a spokesman for the

CHP in El Centro.

Four motorcycle riders were killed.

Five others were airlifted or taken by ambulance to UC San Diego Medical

Center or El Centro Regional Medical Center, according to the CHP.

The Civic was estimated to be traveling 90 to 100 miles per hour when it

tried to pass the entire group of motorcycles, according to the CHP.

The Civic fled the scene after the accident.

Although, it seems clear to us that this entire evil scenario was precipitated

by the driver of the Civic when he went to pass a large, slower moving group

of bikers there is a lot that goes into these split second life changing events.

Please, don’t think I am taking any sides here, but when trying to look at

this disaster from a practical point of view we have to try to learn - all of us

as riders - what, where and how things went so wrong so fast?

First off there were the riders themselves. These folks were just out for a

celebratory 10th anniversary ride.

I don’t think that it would too far of a stretch to say they were riding at the

speed limit or a bit below. If they were like many groups we have encoun-

tered they would have left little if any room for a passing car to navigate

through them.

Then you have the driver of the Honda Civic that was obviously in a hurry

and might have been behind this group for miles and losing patience. No ex-

cuse for dangerous stupidity.

Are these the facts? I don’t know – I wasn’t there; but I have seen enough

large riding groups and dopey car drivers to feel pretty confident in this call.

So, the driver of the Civic makes a stupid and fateful decision and tries to

pass the entire group – 21 riders - in one shot at 90+ miles per hour.

The poor couple heading in the other direction, at the posted speed, sud-

denly has a Japanese rocket hurling at them at well more of a combined speed

of 150 miles per hour.

In an attempt to avoid the Civic he rides onto the sandy shoulder, loses

control of his Dodge Avenger and spins out of control into the path of the

motorcyclists simply out for a ride.

All this took place in a few seconds. Four riders and the passenger of the

car dead; others severely injured. Lives changed forever.

How can we learn from this? What could the Saddletramps have done that

might have saved them so much pain?

Well, we all ride in large groups on occasion and must assume a certain

amount of responsibility for our actions. Fighter pilots call this “Situational

Awareness;” and it comes into play here.

I know that with the motorcyclists we ride with on a regular basis when a

car is trying to pass we are usually aware it is there and what it’s trying to

do. We try to use our mirrors every few seconds – not minutes.

The radios help a great deal here and it’s always a good idea for riders in

the rear to let riders up ahead

know there is an automobile or

even another rider trying to get by.

Unfortunately many riding

groups rarely look in the mirrors

and refuse to let anyone pass their

group even if they are aware that

they are there. Pick any day and

road at Americade and I’ll rest my

case.

Still when we have had the oc-

casional car, or rider for that mat-

ter, go to pass us we don’t feel

threatened by moving to the right.

It’s always fine with us.

Now if there is suddenly on-

coming traffic, as in the El Centro

accident, then you have to give

way and make room for the car to

get back in the lane; even if it

means slowing down, speeding up

or simply finding a way to give

them room to re-enter the lane

safely. You might not like it or

them, but you have a responsibil-

ity for everyone around you

whether they are idiots or not.

Don’t let your group ride with blinders on. Everyone is responsible to see

and take in as much information as possible. Learn to share the road, even if

the people you are sharing it with make you want to scream!

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 43

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride SkillfullyA column dedicated to your riding survival

44 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

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50 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

A Tale of Two Rallies

The Curve Cowboy Reunion and

the Finger Lakes BMW Rally

Vermont Bound

For many years now a few of us here at Backroads have been befuddled that so many riders, especially

riders of a certain Germanic ride, insist on camping. These Teutonic bikes are not cheap; and to play with them you

must Bring Much Wapum! Get it?

A number of years ago the K1200LT internet group came up with the idea of holding an annual rally at various places

around the country each summer.

Planned for the week leading into Labor Day, what is called the Curve Cowboy Reunion has had a steadily growing crowd of riders

who come from around the nation to enjoy the various higher-end resorts chosen by the group each year.

Shira and I jaunted down to just north of Atlanta a few years back and had a wonderful time with the region, the hotel and especially

the riders who attend the CCR.

This year’s CCR was to be held in Killington, Vermont at the very nice Killington Grand Resort Hotel. Being somewhat in our area we

signed on immediately. But, things don’t always go as planned.

While at our 15th Anniversary Rally in Fontana, Shira got an email from our friend Sarah who works for Shuberth helmets outside of

Berlin. A new helmet aimed squarely at women riders was being released and Shira was invited to see the new helmet, tour the plant and

generally enjoy this part of Germany.

She flew off on a Sunday and I hopped on the GS the following day and began a very circuitous trek north towards the Granite State; the

plan being to meet up at week’s end in Watkins Glen at the Finger Lakes Rally.

Odd to ride solo after all these years. Not a good odd either.

My ride brought me along Orange county, New York and then over the Hudson where I turned north

and east. Plotting out the ride on the Garmin I tried to hit roads I had missed in the past and had a stupen-

dous day in the perfect late summer weather. Macedonia State Park, on the Connecticut border with New

York, was a particular treat. So were the miles of gravel roads there.

Along Route 7, near Lime Rock, I found a deli, sandwich and a bench for a late lunch and then onward

through Massachusetts and along some tiny twisty roads ending up near Savoy and the Mohawk Trail.

I was now back in familiar grounds and made a run for the Gray Ghost Inn as the sun was quickly set-

ting.

Unfortunately our friends Magnus, Carina and the gals were gone and the place locked.

Ooops – didn’t somebody say to call? Oh, yeah – that would have been Shira during a mid-day inter-

national call. How I got that I’ll never know.

Continuing north on Route 100 in the gathering gloom I switched on the Hornet Deer Alert – hoping

this electronic rabbit’s foot really does work.

I grabbed a quick bite in Ludlow and found a convenient car to follow up towards Killington, thinking it a deer blocker.

I was a day early but the fellow at the desk easily rearranged my reservation and soon I was unloading the bike. Right about then a gentleman

walked up and then another.

“Welcome!”

“Uh, hello,” I replied.

I had forgotten how

friendly the CCR folks

were. They even helped

me with my luggage.

By this time it was way past ten and

the History Channel was looking good,

so after 400 miles or so I called it a day.

As dark as it was the previous night I

was just not ready for the burst of sun-

shine that hit me early the next day when

I pulled back the darkened curtains.

I felt like a vampire about to explode.

It was glorious outside. I took my time

and ambled down to pick up my Curve

Cowboy package and then found a cof-

fee and planned my day.

I have a wonderful Aunt and Uncle who live not far from Killington so

plans were made to do lunch; but with a few hours to kill I went in search of

a little Mysterious Amer-

ica. What, you kids think

this stuff just happens?

Just outside Cavendish

I found what I was look-

ing for, as per O’Life’s

detailed instructions and

the Curious Case of

Phineas Gage is a must

read. So much so that it

made it into our Best of

category for 2010.

Lunch with Aunt Fran and Uncle Jim was as great as it gets. We spent some

time at their home as well looking at old pictures, although I did back off

watching an old film to video of a precocious 5-year old bathtub moment.

Even I couldn’t bear to see something like that 47 years later.

Back on the bike I found a great new

covered bridge over the Black River

and some miles of well-groomed gravel

to give my GS the daily dose of dust.

By the time I got back to the hotel the

lot had filled considerably, mostly with

K1200LTs, but there was a smattering

of other marques as well. All were wel-

come.

I almost immediately ran into

my friend Jay Slomka. He and his

wife had originally convinced us

to attend our first CCR a few

years back and it was good to see

a familiar face.

This time around there were

riders from Oregon, Alaska, Texas and even two fellows from Finland – giv-

ing the CCR an international flare.

By this time it was fairly late in the afternoon and with a good night call

from Shira ended (it was near midnight in Berlin) I did another stroll around

the great resort.

On one side of the parking lot a small cadre of CCRers were circled around

one silver LT with a man underneath the rear removing the final drive that

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 51

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had failed – things happen; not unusual at a large gathering.

But, what was unusual was the amount of support this fellow

was getting to the point of somebody who had towed their

ride in actually having a spare rear drive which was offered

up till it could be returned.

Camaraderie like this goes beyond the usual two-wheel

gatherings. He was back on the road the next day. So was I.

I had been reading a book on the history of New York and

a great deal was made of the city the North River (just be-

coming to be called the Hudson) and the battles between the

Patriots and the British.

Many folks, when thinking about Revolutionary battles in

Vermont, think of Bennington and the fine memorial they

have there. But that battle actually took place in Hossick,

New York, the only true battle in the War of Independence, that was fought on Vermont soil, was at Hub-

bardton.

Here, just a year after the signing of the Declaration of Independence, the

Green Mountain Boys, led by Seth Warner, slowed the advance of the Red-

coats giving their main force time to retreat. The British then went to

Saratoga where history was written. But, it would have been written differ-

ently if not for the Green Mountain boys and their stand on these rolling

hills.

After taking in a Curve Cowboy seminar on GPS software I hopped on

the GS and headed to the battlefield at Hubbardton.

The place, so beautiful now, was quiet and serene – unlike the way it must

have been on that July day in 1777.

After a bit of history lesson I found more of Vermont’s great gravelly farm

roads, cutting through the very New England town of Brandon (Backroads

had a rally there, remember?) and over the gap on Route 73.

Landing back on 100 I turned north to Rochester as the famed café was

calling and she had a Maple Walnut Ice Cream soda awaitin’.

Fully sugared I rolled east and over the Rochester Gap and then down

along the river towards trendy Woodstock – and trended right through. Bear-

ing left at Route 100A I took a quick visit at president Calvin Coolidge’s

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home. It was here that then vice-president Coolidge was informed of Presi-

dent Harding’s death and was actually sworn in by his father – who was the

local notary public. To my knowledge this was the only time a president took

the oath from his dad.

A short ride north brought me back to

Killington and the CCR.

By this time I had reacquainted myself

with some riders I knew and made

friends with some Cowboys I didn’t.

Pizza dinner was more than fun and

the travel stories at the resort’s bar were

just as entertaining. My thought for this

week was to take off towards Watkins

Glen to meet Shira and attend the yearly

gathering at the Finger Lakes Rally, but

I didn’t need to be there until Friday and

the Curve Cowboy Silent Auction was

to begin on Thursday. This group does

an incredible job of raising money for

small local charities wherever they hold

their event.

They’ve raised nearly $150,000 since

they began and all of it going to grass

roots organizations that truly could use the help. Once the CCR actually dou-

bled a tiny charity’s budget with one check.

I said these were good folk.

That being the case I went down to see what was up for bidding. Before

Shira left she kind of hinted at a limit – which I was totally ready to ignore.

Onward to the Finger Lakes

As much fun as the CCR can be I did have

other plans that would be unfolding some

300 or so miles to the west. Just around mid-

morning I packed up and started on my way

towards the picturesque Finger Lakes region

of New York and the Finger Lakes BMW

Rally.

Held just outside Watkins Glen this rally

has long been a favorite of ours at Backroads

and we attend as often as we can.

My route brought me south on Route 100

and then west across Vermont where I

crossed into New York State near Salem.

Keeping with the historic nature of the

week I paused near Fort Hardy where

British General Burgoyne’s troops actu-

ally laid down their arms after the famous

battle of Saratoga and then made a slight

detour to take in the actual battlefield it-

self – which is a place of such historical

significance that it deserves its own story.

Swinging back onto my pre-planned ride

I made one last detour to see the obelisk

monument in Saratoga dedicated to the

first major battle won by our forefathers.

My ride clipped the very southern part

of the Adirondacks and then sped down

into the Leatherstocking region of New

York before heading south towards Utica

on a simply phenomenal piece of road-

way designated 26.

It was here that I ran into the kid with the sport bike.

I was tooling along, at a good clip, when I was suddenly blown past by a

kid on a sport bike. With nothing else to do and miles still to go I dropped it

a gear and took chase. I was good with him in the turns but he crushed me

on the straights.

After a few miles of this tomfoolery we came upon a construction zone

and we both had to stop. It was then I realized the bike was a new BMW

S1000RR – probably the hottest new sportbike on the planet.

I said to the kid that if I was going to get trounced, it should at least be by

another BMW.

With that he flipped up his helmet and I looked into the face of a guy with

at least 10 years on me, with the biggest shit grin I had seen in a while.

The construction guys signaled us forward and this very

fast middle-aged guy was way gone. Just too funny!

By this time it was getting quite late and once again I found

myself in a race with the revolution of the planet.

Heading on Route 79 towards Seneca Lake the band Ren-

aissance came on with the song “Driving Hard” – which was

apropos at the time.

As the sun dropped over the far western edge of the long

lake, Annie Haslam’s golden voice sang the last words of the

song - “Reaching out for shadows passing through. See the

dark around is coming down on you.”

I thought I heard Notso Happy complain from my tank bag

– “She got that right, you Bozo!”

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 53

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Seneca Lodge is one of our fa-

vorite hideaways and we always

stay here when at this rally, as it is

just down the road from the site it-

self. I was just there for minutes

when I started running into people

I knew, sort of like coming home.

Around this time I got a call that Shira

had landed and arrived back home. The

next day she would ride up and meet me.

It would be good to have her with me

again.

Like Maddie & David, Beanie &

Cecil or Ren & Stimpie – Brian sounds

better when it’s followed by ‘& Shira’.

Now in its 36th year the Finger Lakes

BMW Rally is found just outside of the

town and with another hot day on

tap I rode up to the rally, paid my

bucks and walked around the

grounds. Just a few tents were up at

this point but by the evening that

would change and a tent city would

appear.

As usual the rally had a few ven-

dors selling gear, gadgets and parts

both new and used and great deals

were to be found, including our

friend Nick Pleznick (not a Klin-

gon) and the folks from No-Mar

Tire changers, who were swapping

tires on and off rider’s bikes.

I ran into some friends and while chatting up bikes the cell phone rang and

it was Shira would thought she’d be up by around 1ish.

After lunch in town I rode

back to Seneca Lodge and at

1pm on the dot herself rode

into the lot.

For those of you who might

have never ridden in the Fin-

ger Lakes region it is one of

the most stunning areas to ex-

plore, but you need to know

where to look.

The terrain has many wa-

terfalls and gorges and we

planned on showing some

54 JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 55

Join Backroads for our 13th Annual Spring Break Rally. This time around we’ll be riding to Canandaigua,New York - atop the stunning Finger Lakes of the Empire State. Our base camp will be the beautiful Inn onthe Lake • www.theinnonthelake.com. The Inn on the Lake itself has everything we would need and wepromise you a great time. Here you’ll find the riding easy and nature is splendid as the entire Finger Lakesare simply gorge-ous! Robert Treman, Taughannock, Watkins Glen and Letchworth Parks are all within aneasy day’s ride and not to forget the dozens of wineries and restaurants that sprinkle the region.Make your reservations now as rooms are VERY limited and they will go fast. You must call 800-228-2801and ask for the Backroads Motorcycle Tourmagazine Rally for special rates and room options.

Cut-off is April 1, 2011 and we ain’t fooling!

Spring Break 2011 • May 19 - 22, 2011

There are other lodging options in the area if the Inn is booked. Please check:www.canandaiguachamber.com

High Alpine Tour withBackroads and Edelweiss

July 17-24, 2011 • If Not Now - WHEN?Head off with Backroads’ publishersBrian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime aswe join up with Edelweiss for theirHigh Alpine Tour.Ride the roads you have dreamed of inthe past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Gross-glockner, the famed Dolomites.We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice.

When: July 17 -24, 2011

In addition to this great tour, Edelweissoffers their Alps Riding Training. Forthose who have never ridden the Alps,it is highly recommended. For thosewho have, you can always learn more.You must arrive at least one day earlierto take this course. Check website forpricing and services.

For more information email Doris:

doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.comor call us at 973-948-4176.

Ride the Alps, if not now, when?

friends a number of them.

In the morning we took a quick ride up to the rally and the sun and heat

that had dominated this trip so far was replaced with ominous dark clouds

and far cooler temperatures. Up at the site the rains came in but that didn’t

stop us and friends John and

Lynn from going for a ride. Our

first destination was a great

Corn Maze Shira wanted to do

a story on so we followed her

GPS route which, as usually,

brought us along miles of gravel

and clay roads that started to get

bit slippery with each drop. The

Maze was pretty neat but by

now it was lunch time and we

were to meet more friends at

Wagners on Seneca Lake so

that’s where we headed.

After lunch John and Lynn

stayed for some beer tasting and

we swapped those friends for

our other transplanted

New Englanders Rich

and Dee Dee Ford, whom

we had just traveled in

Kentucky with a few

weeks back.

They had never been to

the Finger Lakes and, al-

though avid wine con-

noisseurs, they followed

our lead that afternoon

and we were happy to

show them some of the

natural beauty that abounds in the region.

Our first stop was Taughannock, which is Algonquin for “in the trees.” The

highest free flowing waterfall in the northeast, Taughannock tumbles 215

feet down and is one of the most stunning falls on the planet.

We had one other

gem to show the

Fords and we spun

around Ithaca and up

the twisty Route 327

to the top of Robert

Treman Park. This

glen is a long-time fa-

vorite of ours and we

never miss a chance

to show it off to any-

one who has not had

the wonderful oppor-

tunity to see it before.

The park is named

after an Ithaca philanthropist who donated this wonderful piece of planet

Earth to New York state back in 1920.

The park has a long gorge that runs for a few miles with trails and bridges

that actually allow you to walk along its entire length. When riding in the

Finger Lakes you must make Treman Park a priority.

The day was a combination of blue skies and spotty rains, but still it had

cooled off greatly and we wouldn’t have traded it for the oppressive heat that

had been a nasty companion to us all the previous days of riding.

Heading back to the Lodge we decided to park the bikes for the day, open

some local wine and enjoy the rest of the afternoon.

Heading back to the rally site for the evening festivities, which included

the rally numbers, witticisms and prizes, we said our goodbyes as we would

be heading out the next morning. As we rode away from the campgrounds

the sound of reveling ralliers faded behind us as we brought a close to the

official summer season. I was pleased to have included two Labor Day sta-

ples in my repertoire this year, each with very different trappings but the

common denominator of comraderie, tire-kicking and riding.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 56

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