Jakarta Expat - issue 103 - Literature

1 · 9 October - 22 October 2013

IndOnesIa's Largest expatrIate readershIp 103rd edItIOn | 9th OctOber - 22nd OctOber 2013 | www.jakartaexpat.biz

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Reading in Yogyakarta in 1977. courtesy of curt gibbs


103rd Edition • 9 October - 22 October 2013

Editor in Chiefangela [email protected]

Managementedo Frese [email protected]

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Finance & Adminpertiwi gianto [email protected] [email protected] Contributorssophie chavanelgail g. collinsterry collinsJacques r.ducquestess Joycehush petersen daniel popeeamonn sadlergrace susetyoantony suttonKenneth Yeung

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103rd issue4. lEGEnDS lAYinG Down RootS: thE FoRGottEn FolkloRES oF inDonESiA

6. book REviEw CRAzY littlE hEAvEn: An inDonESiAn jouRnEY 7. obSERvAtionS thE lonG wAY hoME 8. lYRiCAl woRDS poEtRY oF inDonESiA 9. lAnGuAGE ESSEntiAl ADDEnDuM to YouR poCkEt inDonESiAn-EnGliSh DiCtionARY

10. inDonESiAn inSpiRAtion hElvY tiAnA RoSA 12. MEEt thE ExpAt bill DAlton 13. FACES oF jAkARtA CitRA thE nAtionAl libRARY libRARiAn 14. nEw MuM in town whAt to wEAR AnD whAt not to wEAR in inDonESiA 16. liGht EntERtAinMEnt DAnCinG with thE bEAR 18. nEw MuM in

town whAt to wEAR AnD whAt not to wEAR in inDonESiA 19. SCAMS in thE CitY SMAll ChAnGE, biG SCAM | EvEntS 20. ClASSiFiEDS & pRopERtY

Dear Readers

Why do people write? Is it to fulfil our egotistical desires, to be remembered after death, or be talked about with praise? Or is it to bring meaning to a confusing world? Some would say they write because it makes them feel alive, drawing them into the moment, while others believe they can change the world through writing, making a lasting difference by persuading others to do the same.

Whatever your motivation for writing, let’s hope you never stop. Through written words, readers learn of worlds unheard of, stories untold, secrets, desires, other ways of life and living, how to be a better person, cultures, fantasies, wildlife, travel, opinions, and anything the writer’s imagination can dream up.

With this issue themed ‘Literature’, I would like to take this opportunity to mention our writers, our contributors, for their involvement in Jakarta Expat. Over the last three years we have dealt with many contributors, each with their own desire to write, not to mention personality and work ethic, and we have conjured up a true melting pot of individuals, some living in and some living far from Jakarta. Whatever the case may be with each contributor, their styles and approaches are unique, and we appreciate this uniqueness, which, mixed together, brings something to the table for everyone.

We have contributors with a strong journalistic background, researching subjects in depth, handing in polished pieces of journalism worthy of the newspaper. We have contributors who are mothers, working on the side to satisfy their thirst for new knowledge and the thrill of experiencing a new city, their work informative and fun, helpful to many. We have those who take a lighter approach, still doing the research mind you, but submitting content with a humorous tinge, which we all love to read.

There are those who get turned on by stories of the darker side, getting all the facts right to satisfy your craving for a scandal. Then the ones whose motivations lie in sharing a story, with the hopes that through this sharing, the lives of their subjects can be bettered somehow; this one is an idealist. And don’t forget the travellers, the ones who want to share their experiences with others through their writing, warning others of dos and don’ts and how to make the best of things. I could go on and on, but hopefully you get the picture I’m trying to paint.

To all those who write, for us or otherwise, a big thank you. Whatever your motive, whatever your desire to achieve, remember that if one person reads your words and feels a connection to your thoughts, positive or negative, your mission has been accomplished.

Thank you for the words.

Angela Richardson

@angela_jelita@cleanupjktday


Legends by g r a c e s u s e t y o

As a child, I read colourful children storybooks in English and Indonesian, mostly on Americanised versions of European folklores or classical literature. While my father also told me some Indonesian folklores such as the Javanese version of Mahabharata and traditional fables,

unfortunately I have never owned attractive kid-friendly books of Indonesian folklores, or watched them as cartoons on TV.

Western philosophy is still taught around the world through accounts of Greco-Roman mythology. While my performing arts classmates in Jakarta were busy keeping up with the latest trends of American and British pop culture, I spent my weekends in art houses watching Indonesian theatre and music performances, discovering how the long forgotten folklores of Indonesia still accurately describe my country’s human condition today. And they feel so much closer to me than those foreign European gods I read about in philosophy class.

Reno Azwir from Noura Books has been researching traditional Indonesian religions and folklores for 19 years. A common trend that Reno found throughout communities in Indonesia is that they all disseminate life lessons through folklore and mythology.

“Myths are important for the development of humankind. It’s man’s simplest attempt to understand nature,” said Reno. But this is not unique in Indonesia.

Reno said that Westerners tend to dismiss supernatural miracles as a myth. “But myths are the ground from which reason grows. Without myths, reason cannot grow.”

Before Europeans became acquainted with science, they invented mythical beings such as Thor, the Norse god of thunder. “The myth started from ignorance. But the establishment of the myth in the culture was what drove Europeans to discover the electrostatic discharge in the sky to explain what lightning and thunder are. Now Thor has simply become a myth, rather than the truth itself, but his story is still told as folklore,” said Reno.

An example of a myth-based practice in Indonesia is the Baduy of Banten’s taboo to store rice paddies on the ground. They are kept in a huma, an elevated wooden barn. “According to Baduy myth, gravity takes away nutrients from rice. The stilts that support the huma is soaked in water, because water is a natural preservative and pest repellent for wood, and it also serves as a buffer between the huma and gravity,” explained Reno. “We dismiss such practices as myth, and yet rice paddies stored in the huma can last up to 100 years.”

Similarly, Dayak tradition in Kalimantan prescribe certain days and times to cut bamboo, because before the introduction of science, myths explain the centrifugal forces that affect the water content of the bamboo.

Java’s Serat Centhini, a written work orally distributed among the masses through folklore and poetry, has been a medium of instruction for building robust houses, preparing nutritious food and medicines to ward off disease, and to maintain passion and pleasure in married couples.

“Many cultures in Indonesia designate an area of hutan terlarang (forbidden forest),” said Reno. Folklores of evil spirits and supernatural phenomena would develop around the hutan terlarang, but this in fact protects the people’s food, construction, and water resources. “So nowadays, we develop a modern concept of hutan terlarang and call them ‘national parks’ instead.”

Folklore also serves as a social medium for Indonesian communities. The Minangkabau in West Sumatra has kaba (poetic songs narrating traditional folklores). When there’s a full moon, the kaba leader would call the community to gather outdoors, and they would make music while listening to stories that teach wisdom.

“They relate to kaba just like we relate to our favourite TV shows,” said Reno. “The kaba fosters interpersonal relationships. The stories and their character provide a common cultural reference where moral lessons are established. People in the community would tell each other, ‘Don’t do what Pak Belalang did!’”

Pak Belalang is one of Reno’s favourite Indonesian folklores. Once upon a time, the King boarded out his rooster to Pak Belalang. While Pak Belalang was out, his wife slaughtered the chicken and fed it to their son. When the King summoned Pak Belalang to check on his rooster, Pak Belalang ordered his son to enter the covered chicken coop and brought him before the King. Pak Belalang could face a death sentence if the King learns that his rooster is gone.

“Yes, the rooster is in there,” said Pak Belalang as he uncovers the coop. “It can walk and crow like your rooster, but he has taken the image of my son. My wife, not knowing that the rooster belongs to Your Majesty, has fed it to my son, so now the rooster is in my son.”

“Your Majesty gave me the opportunity to take care of your rooster, so now please give me the opportunity to raise my son,” he continued. The King took mercy and let the father and son go alive.

Reno admitted that the fiction market in Indonesia’s publishing business is still dominated by foreign fiction. Reno cannot yet name a contemporary Indonesian author who has gained mainstream success by writing a work of fiction inspired by Indonesian folklores.

That said, Reno believes there is potential, as he has plans to sign a previously unpublished Indonesian author in his mid-twenties who is currently writing a children’s fantasy loosely based on the seafaring Bajo ethnic group and several others in Eastern Indonesia.

“Because we don’t take good enough care of our heritage, the wealth of our literature are being moved overseas, and other countries use it to enhance their civilisations,” added Reno.

He mentioned that the manuscript of the Bugis-Makassarese creation myth epic La Galigo - also known as the world’s longest written work at 9,000 large pages - has been given on permanent loan to the Leiden University Library in The Netherlands. An English musical-theatrical adaptation of the epic, directed by American Robert Wilson, is currently touring the world.

“If young Indonesians are willing to learn our literary heritage and return to their cultural roots, build a great civilisation from the bottom to the top. Indonesia would be a much better country.”

“A Sumatran proverb says, ‘Lay your roots down here, but bear fruit everywhere’,” Reno concluded. “Our closest roots can be found in our oral traditions, our folklores.”

Laying Down Roots:The Forgotten Folkloresof IndonesiaBeing a 1990s Indonesian child and early 2000s teen, I grew up being taught projections on the 21st century “global era”. It was, and maybe still is, a generation of historical and cultural amnesia - at least so it was for many internationally educated kids from upper-middle class families like me.

GRACE SuSEtYoGrace is a freelance writer, former TV journalist, and aspiring documentarist with a passion for Indonesian history and culture. Now in her 6th year in Jakarta, Grace has lived in various countries and looks forward to exploring more places. Contact her at [email protected]


tERRY CollinSTerry Collins is the co-author of Culture Shock! Jakarta and writes the Jakartass blog.

Book Review by t e r r y c o l l i n s

Crazy Little Heaven:An Indonesian JourneyMark Heyward | Pub. transit lounge Publishing 2013isBn: 978-1-921924-507

“One’s destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things.” - Henry Miller

His own sense of spirituality has led him to climb many volcanoes throughout the archipelago. On Gunung Inerie on Flores, which is a predominantly Catholic island, he had a sense of awe and wonder.

Standing on that peak, nothing around us but sharp, slender air, a strange stillness, the roaring silence prompted me. Turning to our local guide I asked, “Can you hear it? Can you hear the voice of God?”

“Nope,” he replied, with a puzzled look.

He later “wonders whether we should be looking beyond the Abrahamic religions for a spiritual basis for the environmental ethic we so desperately need.”

At the recent book launch in Kemang, a local journalist asked Mark, “What’s in it for Indonesian readers?” His answer was that he hoped it would help Indonesia-Australia relations.

A worthy aim, but as he told me, “Writing is an act of making meaning, sorting out the chaos, myth-making; and the primary audience is oneself.”

I suggested to Mark that because his journey as a young man had set the context of his life, perhaps the book served as a closure.

After 20 or so years spent travelling around the islands of Indonesia he said that “Indonesia has become me. The more Indonesia becomes comprehensible and ‘normal’, the more I appreciate the beguiling mix of contradictions and ambiguities; a sweet disappearing world.”

“Living and travelling in Indonesia teaches you nothing if not flexibility in thinking.”

How very true.

My bookshelf has a number of tales written by travellers through Indonesia; from Geoffrey Gorer in the mid ‘30s (Bali and Angkor), to Norman Lewis (An Empire of the East - 1995), Redmond O’Hanlon (Into the Heart of Borneo - 1983), and George Monbiot’s Poisoned Arrows - 1989.

However, these were written by folk who came, observed, and then departed for pastures new, and not by someone who is the patriarch of an Indonesian family and has clocked up nigh on two decades here.

With his fellow Tasmanian wife and their two young children, Mark Heyward arrived in East Kalimantan in 1992 to teach at an international school for the children of expatriate miners. He had a certain wanderlust inherited from his family’s folklore and so he was not the first to leave Tasmania, that far-flung corner of the Commonwealth, for the tropical forests of Borneo.

In 1994, seeking “a little adventure in [his] own life” with three companions, he set out to cross Kalimantan from his home base in Sangatta to Pontianak in the southwest. His journal of the seventeen day adventure, recounting travelling by taksi air (water taxis, “the local public transport”), climbing mountain ridges, trekking through forests, wading across streams and exploring cave systems in isolated areas, forms the core of the book.

A year after his “adventure”, he returned to Tasmania, a divorce, and further study. As the subject of his PhD was ‘intercultural literacy’, returning to Kalimantan seemed natural, and it was at his old school that he met his future wife. Although currently based in Jakarta, where Mark works as an educational consultant for an international NGO, their home is in Lombok, where they have a studio, “a comfortable eco lodge”, and have helped set up a school for local children which invokes gotong royong (“community action”). I’d only had time for a quick dip into the book before Mark

and I first met up for a chat over a few Bintangs but, with delighted recognition, I had already realised that we were on the same page of different books.

Mark described his journal to me as “a little bit naive” and in writing a Tasmanian magazine article, which ended up as “half a book”, he realised that his “journey of a lifetime” was just part of a life’s journey.

And that becomes clear when reading Crazy Little Heaven. Although the journey across Kalimantan forms the main structure, it is divided into seven parts which act as pegs. These have allowed Mark to reflect not only on the ‘then’ but also on where it has led him; to the ‘now’.

For example, in Part 5, the trekkers come across an isolated Dayak family whose sole occupation, it seems, is to harvest birds’ nests from caves in limestone outcrops by clambering up precarious bamboo scaffolding. However, “while in the past birds’ nest were obtained exclusively from remote locations like this, more recently enterprising locals have begun farming the birds” for a “burgeoning Chinese market”.

Mark writes movingly about his visits to the orangutan rehabilitation centres founded by Willie Smits, the Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation (BOS), and Biruté Galdikas who founded Camp Leakey.

“With our greed and appetite for progress, our cruelty and inability to share the planet with other creatures, we have become a destructive plague. Looking into the eyes of a young orangutan threw this into stark relief. Is his the last generation?”

Perhaps Mark’s journey is not so much myth-making as in placing his own in the context of the many myths westerners cannot grasp here. In order to conform to Indonesia’s marriage laws, Mark converted to Islam. In Part 6, Rapids and Religion, he offers an extensive ‘critique’ of religious ethical codes as practised here.

He witnessed the fatalism - Inshallah (God willing) - of Muslims in Aceh six months after the tsunami, yet I knew two parents who, having lost three of their four children to the waves, subsequently died of heart break.


Observations by D a n i e l P o P e

The coastal roads of Bintan Island, lesser known neighbour of that sinful playground for Singaporean weekenders, Batam, were deserted and shouldn’t have posed a problem

for even the most unskilled of riders. I put my accident down to being unaccustomed to carrying heavy baggage on the back of a bike. I also discovered how nastily gravel can shred a bare knee.

It was that shredded knee that led me the next day to be hobbling onto a ferry operated by state-owned shipping firm Pelni for the three-day journey back to Jakarta, where I worked as an English Language instructor. My occupation should serve as an indication of why I wasn’t flying. Back in the mid-1990s, in the days before budget airlines flew to other cities and occasionally into the sea or the side of a mountain, ships were the cheapest form of inter-island transportation. And teaching didn’t pay much. Especially not to those new to the game. This also explains why I was travelling economy class.

The prospect of spending three days on a narrow bunk in the innards of a Pelni ferry, crammed together with a crowd of staring fellow passengers, is bleak at the best of times. While I was luckier than those spreading out their blankets in cramped corridors or stairways, I was constantly swatting flies away from my festering knee, and crushing cockroaches underfoot. My legs were not as sound against the lurching of the deck as I had supposed. I had soon had enough. I abandoned ship at Batam, a mere three hours later, just as the gangplank was being hauled in.

I decided it would be more comfortable to return home overland. This necessitated getting to Sumatra via a mere nine-hour journey on a small air-conditioned ferry. As I limped off that boat, I caught a touch of the sun. Being a newcomer to the tropics, I had never before experienced such scorching sunlight. The complete absence of shaded shelter was unbearable and caused me to panic. Being British, I should have waited patiently in the queue, which was more of a shoving mob, to board one of the minibuses that had arrived to pick us up. To say that I jumped the queue would be incorrect. In my desperation, I totally obliterated it, leaving people to pick up themselves and their strewn belongings.

Roads to the city of Pekanbaru, capital of Riau province, were not the best in Indonesia in those days. The bus ride was even choppier than the seagoing vessels I’d been on. As our convoy lurched, swayed and bucked onward, I perspired heavily while clinging to the seat in front of me. Then I encountered some good fortune. I say this because it was the bus ahead that tipped over onto its side, not ours. No such luck for the boy standing in the dust next to the wreckage with blood dripping off him, or the bloodied girl clambering from a shattered window, or the injured soldier helping a distraught old woman to her feet. But we didn’t stop. We extended no assistance. Our bus just lurched on by. It appeared that the fallen on this trail were left where they dropped.

A stopover in Pekanbaru seemed sensible and The Lonely Planet Indonesia guidebook directed me to a backpacker hotel that promised comfort, cheer and cold beer. To get there, I boarded a public minivan. The vehicle was cramped and crowded but

the passengers were enormously helpful, bundling my bags on for me, squeezing themselves further back to give me room, and providing conflicting but altogether useful directions to the hotel. I found it heart-warming that people could be so helpful to a stranger. I thanked them heartily, shaking a clutch of proffered hands as I reached my stop, hopping from the vehicle with my bags. It seemed appropriate to wave as the vehicle sped off. Such splendid people. It took me a few seconds to discover that I had been waving goodbye to my wallet.

After spending an hour on a public phone cancelling credit cards, reporting a stolen ID, and getting a friend to wire me money (I had some cash stashed separately, but not enough to get me back), I finally reached the hotel selling the cold beer. Time to relax. Among the assortment of backpackers and skinflint holiday-makers, invariably Dutch, I got talking to a German who was riding his motorbike across Sumatra. Just why he was doing this, I never did find out, but he had some fascinating tales, none of which there are room for in this tale. During the night, for reasons unknown, he fell through my door as I slept, trod on my scabbing knee, apologised for intruding, and staggered out again. I didn’t really hear his apology. I was distracted by the agony of all that healing undone by the dirt-encrusted sole of a German motorcycle boot.

My next night’s sleep was aboard a bus heading for Jakarta, a 36-hour journey. Reclining in my seat, with the lights out, I began to drift off to the gentle sound of crunching gear changes. But this was not a regular bus. This was an ‘executive’ one. And as such, it had certain dues. Unpaid in this

case. Had I known that the bus company had not paid the thugs who ruled the territory we were passing through, and consequently that our safe passage could not be guaranteed, I would not have been so relaxed. The abrupt sight of an asteroid shooting just inches past by my left ear was accompanied by the sound of shattering glass and screeching brakes as the driver halted the bus, then thought better of it and proceeded to the next village. There was a hole where the window had been and a bloodied empty seat where the unlucky passenger had been sitting. A brick chucked at a speeding bus will do that. We spent two hours at the village police station.

I reached Jakarta without further incident. Perhaps my sudden return to prayer had helped. I was a week late back to work from my Bintan holiday. I soon had trouble remembering the actual holiday but not the homeward journey. My injured knee began to heal nicely, though for many weeks I had to contend with a scab resembling an elephant’s kneecap.

And what did I learn from this succession of mishaps and near misses? Nothing. As far as I’m concerned, I didn’t put a foot wrong. I made it through those slings and arrows. And I’d still recommend travelling around Indonesia on a budget. You just have to learn how to rough it and be lucky. Seriously.

English teacher Daniel Pope recalls his 1997 nightmare journey from Bintan to Jakarta.

TheLong Way Home

It began with a motorcycle accident. I lost control of my rented bike while negotiating a cliff-top bend and landed in the roadside gravel, just short of a steep drop into the sea. That near miss was merely a portent of coming catastrophes.

DAniEl popEDaniel is a part-time hedonist, residing mostly in Jakarta, where he still finds everything a bit of a rum do.


Yet poetry jams are surging in popularity and the recent increase

in online poetry magazines has made things easier for

artists to reach out to a reader’s heart with

their voice. So what’s really going on? Is poetry

only being bought and read by poets? And are things any

different in Indonesia? That’s what I wanted to find out. I first met poet

Malkan Junaidi in 2012 at a talk and debate with Youth Poet Laureate Hagar Peeters from The Netherlands, and South African poet and actress Mbali Bloom in Malang, during the What is Poetry?International festival in Indonesia. At the festival, poets from across the world and Indonesia read their poems and encouraged students to reconnect with poetry.

As an expat with an interest in poetry, I was keen to ask Malkan Junaidi about the scene in Indonesia. Malkan, born and bred in the paddy-farming village of Blitar in East Java, was not always a poet and stopped writing after the death of his father. “I wanted to live a simpler life, which involved more muscles than brains - I inherited from my father a profession as a farmer. My symbolic divorce with poetry involved burning all the poems I’d ever written. But being a poet seems to have been my destiny. In 2005 I wrote again.” After 15 years of writing, his collection of 99 poems, called Lidah Bulan (Tongue of the Moon) was recently published.

The Indonesian publishing scene has also benefitted from the Internet and many writers are turning to independent publishers or self-publishing, yet Malkan has fair concerns. “Due to the easiness of publishing a book through independent publishers (money is key), a lot of friends do image-raising politics by quoting testimonials and endorsements of books they published.”

So, I wondered, with so many books flooding the market, where was the best place to start reading some good Indonesian poetry?

“I think Indonesia with its young modern literary history has produced a lot of poets whose works are worth reading,” Malkan explains. “I will mention a few names, not because I like them, but because in general (and I agree) they had a significant effect on their own and next generation.” Here are eight of Malkan’s recommendations.

Poetry in IndonesiaThe poetry world feels like it’s an over-inflated balloon about to burst after the number of scandals that have emerged – award-winning poets Christian Ward and David R. Morgan recently apologized for plagiarizing poems. Small publishers such as Salt have stopped publishing poetry because of poor sales and some critics have even attacked modern poetry, calling it bad and obscure.

Lyrical words by t e s s J o y c e

1. Chairil Anwar is number one on the list. Although born in 1922, his legendary name still continues to be talked about. Breaking away from tradition, “He refused to write pantun, gurindam, seloka and other literary forms from his ancestors and replaced it with other forms - crossbreed-

ing with Western influences such as W. H Auden.”

2. Goenawan Mohamad, founder and Editor of Tempo magazine, “Is a central axis figure in the Jakarta literature movement.”

3. W. S. Rendra’s “Poetry is more popular than Goenawan Mohamad’s, and he was also a very charismatic figure.” He even founded a new type of performance art theatre –Bengkel Teater - which was managed by his third wife Ken Zuraida, after his death.

4. Sutardji Calzoum Bachri, “Ambi-tiously wanted to free poetry from conven-tional devices and return it to its mantra form.” As a result, some of his poems adopt an imagist style.

5. Afrizal Malna, “An Indonesian post-modernist, who juxtaposed non-connected objects together, is a highly influential fig-ure in the last 20 years.” His poetry trans-lates well into English, perhaps because of its reliance on images and objects rather than other poetic devices, which are harder

to translate. Malna actively attends workshops and poetry read-ings – he recently read at Salihara in Jakarta.

6. Dorothea Rosa Herliany, born in 1963, is one of very few Indonesian female poets. She has produced over 20 prose and poem works and recently contributed at the What is Poetry? Festival.

tESS joYCEtess Joyce lives on an island in raja ampat at the moment. tess is a writer from the UK with a little boat and two paddles who enjoys exploring the seas and corals there.

7. Toeti Heraty, born in 1933, was a femi-nist thinker and leading Indonesian poet.

8. Finally, Joko Pinurbo, who “Explores the side that is not touched by many of his predecessors - the comical side. His poetry is simple, intriguing, as well as contemplative.”

Poetry talks are a good way to find out more about contemporary poetry and poet Widhyanto Muttaqien has hosted various poetry and blues music events – his coffee and bookshop, Kedai Sinau, will be opening next month in Bintaro, Jakarta, where he hopes to host again. Poetry camps are also frequently held across Java – Rumah Seni Eloprogo, owned by artist Sony Santosa, recently hosted an event where writer and poet Ervin Ruhlelana and performance poet Buyung Mentari performed under the light of the full moon, on a stage erected close to the river.

Yet Malkan explains that poetry gatherings like these are not new – “W.S. Rendra made Perkemahan Kaum Urakan (camp of the non-conformists) in Parangtritis, Jogjakarta, in the 1970s. Urakan means to perform actions that might violate the law or social norms that apply. We can call it anti-system. Rendra in youth (he confessed) had a rebellious soul - proven by the many bans and detentions sentenced to him. He was arrested, not for disturbing public order with a variety of urakan actions, but because he was considered a threat to the stability of the government.”

Yet Malkan has concerns about the modern-day preoccupation with productivity rather than creativity and Indonesian poets are often encouraged to write in Bahasa rather than their mother tongue, (for example Javanese), which may impact on the way they refine their voice. So, how can we get people interested in poetry again? Gary Snyder once said that the poet was like a shaman, acting as a medium for the earth and as Malkan says, “The most effective way to stay on the right track is to be true to your heart, and writing poetry in my opinion is part of an effort to always hear and obey the words of the heart.”

Ruedi Hoffman's photo, 1971, Rendra's Perkemahan Kaum Urakan in ParangTritis

Poet, Malkan Junaidi


Language by J a c q u e s r . D u c q u e s

jACquES R. DuCquESIf you object to any of the above, or if you would like to add to this list, please blame or contact Monsieur Jacques r. ducques. he enjoys light-hearted as well as in-depth conversations on linguistics and etymology in the deepest depths of darkest south Jakarta.

dehUsage: As emphasis, urging the listener to believe what is being said.Definition: I am telling you; this is certainly the case.Commonly encountered in phrase: “Kangen deh.” Translation: “I miss you, really I do.”

kanUsage: As emphasis, as to solicit the agreement of another, usually in the form of a question.Definition: Is that right? Is that correct?Commonly encountered in phrase: “Begitu kan?”Translation: “That’s the way it is, right?”

kahUsage: With inflection, added to make any phrase a question.Definition: An audible question mark.Commonly encountered in phrase: “Lapar kah?” Translation: “Are you hungry?”

kokUsage: Expression of disbelief or surprise.Definition: English equivalent does not exist. The closest thing we can come up with is ‘What?’Commonly encountered in phrase: “Kok bisa?”Translation: “How can that be?”

lahUsage: An ad-hoc suffix to indicate a loss for words and therefore the substitution of another. Definition: Kind of; sort of.Commonly encountered in phrase: “Ya, mereka lagi fighting lah.”Translation: “Yeah, they’re fighting.”

lohUsage: A sound used to take offense or confusion at something.Definition: I’m offended; I’m confused.Commonly encountered in phrase: “Loh, tidak boleh omong begitu.”

Translation: “Hey I’m offended, you can’t say that.”

nahUsage: A sound used as a conjunction when making a case in an argument (often by politicians and bureaucrats) when the speaker assumes to close the argument with a trump card or spike, if you will.Definition: ThereforeCommonly encountered in phrase: “Karena begitu, dan karena alasan-alasan yang tersebut tadi, nah, oleh sebab itu…”Translation: “Because of that, and because of the aforementioned reasons, therefore…”

sihUsage: An expression of disbelief when seeking information from another.Definition: The hellCommonly encountered in phrase: “Gimana, sih?”Translation: “How the hell?”Commonly encountered in phrase: “Siapa, sih?” Translation: “Who the hell?”Commonly encountered in phrase: “Apa, sih?”Translation: “What the hell?”

sokUsage: In conjunction with an adjective to express irony in the form of an insult.Definition: You think you’re so…Commonly encountered in phrase: “Sok pintar!”Translation: “Smarty pants!”Commonly encountered in phrase: “Sok kaya!” Translation: “You think you’re so rich!”

tohUsage: After a phrase, to express emphasis about what should be obvious to another.Definition: DuhCommonly encountered in phrase: “Ya, pasti, toh!” Translation: “Yes, of course, duh!”

Essential Addendum to Your Pocket Indonesian-English Dictionary

ThrEE lETTEr wOrDs/sOunDs yOu’ll nEvErfInD In Any InDOnEsIAn DIcTIOnAry.

10 · 9 October - 22 October 201310 · 25 september - 8 Oktober 2013

Alternative by a n t o n y s u t t o n

In 1997, you established forum lingkar Pena (flP). what led to the founding of this successful network?My sister, Asma Nadia and I established FLP in 1997. Since then, people from all ranks of life have joined our ‘Indonesia Reads & Writes’ movement. Today, there are about 10,000 volunteers in 150 cities worldwide, encouraging and helping each other to write and publish their thoughts. Millions of Indonesians, most of them young people, have participated in various FLP workshops. Thousands of titles have been published as books, as well as stories in newspapers and magazines. Some have made their way to television and cinema including Ketika Cinta Bertasbih, viewed by almost 500,000 people, one of the highest in Indonesian history. With corporate help, FLP establishes Rumah Baca & Hasilkan Karya (House of the Light) in almost every city where there is a representative office. In 2008, FLP won the Danamon award as a “Hero of the Society”as a non-profit. The success of FLP reflects the continuing passion and hard work of its volunteers; I only put forward the first step.

for a decade, you worked as Managing Editor, and then Editor in chief at Annida, a famous Indonesian Islamic teen magazine. what new opportunities did this unique format present?I worked at Annida from 1991 to 2001, building up my writing career. The format effectively penetrated young target segments, as none with Islamic content existedthen, other than story-magazines with a non-Islamic focus. Annida gained popularity in Islamic boarding schools throughout Indonesia. Parents also welcomed the Islamic content provided to children and teens in a subtle, entertaining way. Annida published 100,000 copies per month at that time, with a small return rate. It was an impressive number, even compared with general teen magazines.

you are a prolific and beloved writer from Indonesia. Importantly, you are female and Muslim. how does this influence both your subject matter and professional outreach?Some researchers, both in Indonesia and abroad, regard me as ‘Muslim-Feminist’, although I don’t think it is properly put. I indeed use female characters with strong personalities in my works. Of course they can’t solve all of their problems, but at least they can show Muslim women active in the real world. Many readers say my stories enlighten them to do more for their family and society, as women and as Muslims.

As an author, you have an earnest heart and desire for your audience. what short list of your books do you see as your legacy and why?Of the books I have written, three heavily influenced my career. First is Ketika Mas Gagah Pergi (When Brother Gagah is Gone), a collection of short stories, published in 1997. Literary researchers like Professor Monika Arnez (Germany) have labelled this book as the pioneer for the Islamic literary movement in Indonesia.

The second book is Bukavu (2008), another collection of short stories, focusing on the aesthetical element of the Islamic literary genre. This won the Khatulistiwa Literary Award that year.

The third one is Tanah Perempuan (Land of the Women) (2005,) my first drama script to be published as a book. Inspired by the tsunami tragedy in 2005, I dug deeply into the history of Aceh’s heroines from 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th centuries to tell their inspiring stories and lift their spirits, especially the women, who suffered most from the disaster. The script was selected as one of the three best scripts during a workshop held by Jakarta Arts Council (2005).

with the founding of Bening Theatrical company, you wrote and directed plays with female companies. why did you make the leap to the stage and what are the rewards of this medium?Drama play is not new for me. I have been participating since elementary school. A dozen scripts that I wrote have been performed as well. I established Bening in 1990 as an alternative to university-based theatrical companies to focus on women’s issues with an Islamic viewpoint. Due to my long involvement, I was invited to teach drama at the University of Jakarta in 2004. Now, I am an active lecturer and theatrical coach there, while pursuing my PhD.

with your involvement in Jakarta Arts council, south East Asian literary council and the Indonesian chapter of the Muslim world writers Association, how have you brought women’s changing cultural roles to the forefront?I believe that women play a crucial role in society, including cultural changes. There is a phrase I like: “Woman is the pole of the nation and every mother is the school for her children.” With each organization and event, I translate this belief by encouraging women and children to read and write for their betterment with various campaigns, trainings and publications.

In news stories around the world, you have been hailed for your focus on human rights abuses against women in conflict zones and called a “pioneer” and “the locomotive of young Indonesian writers. ” what is on the horizon for you now?I have had some of my works translated into English and other languages. I would love to see more of them translated for a wider audience. I am keen to write more, to share and spread the messages of God’s love to human beings as taught in my religion. For me, writing is loving, writing is fighting; hence there will be no end to it. I pray that God gives me the strength to keep writing until my last breath.

GAil G. CollinSgail collins writes internationally for magazines and has co-written two books on expat life. she feels writing is the perfect excuse to talk to strangers and know the world around her better.

Shaping Women’s Roles through Literature:

Helvy Tiana RosaPoised amongst the top ten

female writers in Indonesia, HelvyTiana Rosa has

produced 50 written works including short stories, plays

and poetry, in addition to her role as past Editor in

Chief at Annida. She has been a driving force for women

and active in many literary groups. She also founded a

forum to establish writers worldwide and has received

a strident list of writing and empowerment awards for her

efforts. Currently, Rosa is a lecturer and theatrical coach

while finishing her PhD in literature at the University of

Indonesia.

Indonesian Inspiration by g a i l g. c o l l i n s


when did you first arrive in Indonesia?I first touched down on Indonesian soil in Medan, North Sumatra in 1972 and over the next four decades I visited hundreds of the archipelago’s islands.

why did you decide to settle in Indonesia?I got a job offer as in-house Editor for Island Life magazine. It was an exciting time in Indonesia under the reformist Habibie government; tourism was on the rise after Soeharto stepped down, there were high hopes in the air, the salary and benefits were as good as what government ministers were receiving. Ah, those were the days. Oh, did I mention that I fell in love with a dangdut queen?

you could’ve been any kind of writer, why did you choose to be a travel writer? Travel got into my blood very early. When I was six or seven years old, in Massachusetts, my dad used to come into my room in the middle of the night to wake me up and tell me to get ready. We would climb into the family car and head out to California, Florida, or God knows where else. These trips were the first time I ever experienced the ecstasy of the open road, and they never left me.

Tell us a little bit about your famous

Indonesia handbook.Indonesia Handbook was the only real guidebook to the country from the mid-1970s to the early 1990s. It now has over six editions. The guide was also the genesis of Moon Publications, a publishing

company that I owned and ran for 17 years. As an author and publisher, I did book tours all over the United States, giving travel talks and presenting slide shows about Indonesia.

how did Indonesia handbook come to fruition?One afternoon in 1973 in Australia, I was typing out some tips on travel through Indonesia. An old New Zealand journalist came up and said, “You shouldn’t just give that information away. You should sell it!” I printed out 800 copies of my travel tips, titled it “A Traveller’s Notes: Indonesia,” stapled the three sheets together, and the next day got a ride on the back of a motorcycle down to Nimbin for a festival. On the first day of the festival, I set up shop on a blanket and sold my little booklet for 50 cents apiece. I made $150 the

first day and sold out completely by the third day. I knew I was on to something. That modest typewritten publication eventually grew into a publishing organization with over 65 titles distributed in 32 countries around the world.

so, your handbook was received well by the public?Well, I was once arrested and interrogated during the Suharto regime as a trouble-making journalist. They didn’t like me calling Suharto’s wife “Madame Ten Percent.”

what are some of the most memorable travel experiences?The best trip was with my 14-year-old daughter, Ari, onboard a Makassar schooner roaming the Lesser Sunda Islands for a week. I remember happening upon a tiny island in the Savu Sea where all the friendly inhabitants had - inexplicably to this day - African features and the whole population saw us off on shore when we returned to ship.

can a single writer still capture Indonesia?By the early 1990s, with the country’s infrastructure exploding, and competing guidebooks entering the market, it became impossible for just one writer to research all of Indonesia. Instead, teams of writers were assigned to all the main regions of Indonesia. Though travel guidebooks have since metamorphosed into smartphone apps, I still believe that disciplined objective professionals give the best obtainable version of the truth.

how do you travel now?I seldom use guidebooks. I glean fresh information from other travellers I meet

along the way or from novels, which give more of a feel for the subtleties of the culture and the character of the people. If writers lavish too much praise on a hotel, beach or locale, I hit the other direction to avoid places that have been sabotaged by their own success. It beats the hell out of throwing a dart at a map on a wall.

what complications have you run into in your writing process? Since I cannot possibly visit every place I write about, I have to use other means of obtaining information. I interview other travellers, hotel and restaurant owners, Indonesian tourism officials, as well as gather information from reader’s emails, guidebooks, reference books, travel videos, brochures, timetables. Like an insatiable vacuum cleaner, I just grab everything that’s not nailed down. It’s a never-ending job.

And, obviously, what has been difficult in travelling so much is maintaining the stamina and resourcefulness to persevere on the ground for months at a time, researching a new edition.

Are there authors that have influenced you and your work? There are two books that had a deep and lasting impact on me. The main character Philip Carey in Somerset Maugham’s The Razor’s Edge I held up as a model of the ideal traveller. Another obscure book called A Surgeon’s Log by James Abraham, describing a pre-war sea journey around the world, first instilled in me a love of exotic places. Much later on in the early 1970s, when we were both starting up our guidebook publishing companies, Tony Wheeler of Lonely Planet sent me a copy of Fussel’s Abroad, one of the most beautifully timed and well-intentioned gifts I’ve ever received.

As a prolific writer, do you have any advice for budding travel writers?For expository travel writing, the finest of which emulates great literature, just go for it because if you’re a natural born writer you will never rest until you have at least made the attempt.

Bill may be contacted via his email [email protected]

Meet the Expat by g a B r i e l l a Pa n J a i t a n

Meet

bill daltonthe travel Writer

~ Well, I was once arrested and interrogated during the Suharto regime as a trouble-making journalist. They didn’t like me calling Suharto’s wife “Madame Ten Percent.” ~

Bill has spent much of his life travelling and writing. His saga took flight in 1971 as he embarked on an eight-year backpacking journey across 65 countries and set out to take the journey of a lifetime that would later result in his highly-acclaimed travel guidebooks. The London Sunday Times called Bill’s Indonesia Handbook “One of the best practical guides ever written about any country”.


“I guess if there was a fire and I could only save one thing, it would have to be the 16th Century copy of Negarakertagama (‘The History of Java’) by Prapantja,” Citra said

furrowing her brow and tapping her finger on her temple. “But really it’s so hard to decide. There’s also Babad Diponegoro (‘The Chronicle of Diponegoro’) [The first biography in modern Indonesian history, chronicling the life of the prince of Java, who lived from 1785 to 1855]. And there are also a lot of famous paintings here at the Library.”

A library is only as good as its librarians. Luckily, the National Library, located on Jalan Salemba, in the heart of Central Jakarta, has Citra.

For the last six years, Citra, who boards a train and a bajaj every day, wakes up well before the sun comes up in order to travel the two hours it takes to get from her home in Depok to the nine-storey library, where she mans the information desk or the media centre, pointing people toward the periodicals and newspapers.

“The most satisfying thing about what we do is the happiness that comes with helping people find what they need,” says Citra. “We meet so many people every day, looking for so many different things. We help them become more creative by giving them the books, articles and manuscripts they’re looking for.”

Citra is one of 70 full-time librarians, trained and tested to point everyone from kindergartners to octogenarians, towards exactly what they are looking for between the stacks. But Citra and the brigade of librarians aren’t just proud of the books and the wealth of information that line the walls, but also of the rich history of the National Library.

“There are so many rich historical texts here in the building. UNESCO has recognized many documents here, Babad Diponegoro (‘The Chronicle of Diponegoro’), are on the Memory of the World list.”

Citra breathed a sigh of relief as she remembered that the delicate manuscripts held in the National Library are stored in fireproof safes on the fifth floor.

Boasting ancient books, manuscripts and even a book of poems from Yogyakarta written in gold ink, from as far back as 1556, the National Library beats a trip to the mall any day.

But that is the problem, with 173 malls to choose from Jakarta has little use for libraries. Hail a cab and ask the driver to take you to the National Library and he may return a look of confusion. Few people know where the National Library is, let alone what’s inside. Citra hopes all that changes soon.

“People may not know much about the National Library, but once they come and see what’s inside and tell their friends, then we will have more people who know about us. For right now, we just have students and scholars roaming the halls. Maybe someday - we have free WiFi - we will have a different crowd.”

A trip to the National Library on a weekday afternoon is a great way to explore a more cultured side of the city. Keep an eye out for Citra, or any of her fellow librarians, they’d be glad to show you around.

Perpustakaan Nasional is open from 8am - 4pm Monday - Saturday

+62 (0) 21 3922 855

huSh pEtERSEnhush petersen is currently on sabbatical from the hero's journey. he loves sipping budweisers, doing the crossword and judging people outside ranch Market in Mega Kuningan. You should join him sometime.

citra t H e n a t i o n a l l i b r a r y

l i b r a r i a n

Faces of Jakarta by H u s H P e t e r s e n


The idea of using classical material in the classroom was reignited when I saw an exercise built around the ‘Seven Ages of Man’. I had never come across Shakespeare at school, we were only a comprehensive school (state), so I found myself in the position, as I prepared lessons, of being a

student all over again, and that gave me a precious insight into the other dynamic in the classroom; the learner.

A couple of years back I looked at Brave New World with grade eight. The topic was about change. More precisely, ‘Can we see change as it happens?’ So I considered change. What is it? Why does it happen? Is change always good? As I brainstormed ideas I went off on a tangent, which I felt had legs. The students are growing up in a time of change and technology is driving that change. Is that a good thing? Are we as a society letting technology control us?

I had my strands; change, technology, control. How to tie them together?

I needed an Essential Question - a starting point to the lesson and unit and a place I wanted to return at the end. Something the students could answer at the end of the lesson which may take two or three weeks. It cannot be a yes/no question; rather it would need the students to show an understanding of the topic. I decided on ‘How should technology change our future?’

What do the students know about the topic? I wrote the Essential Question on the board then checked definitions of words like technology, change and future. I followed up with a series of Higher Order Thinking questions using ‘how’ and ‘why’ to dig a little deeper into any prior knowledge they may have on the topic.

I then showed a picture and asked them to write down any words that sprung to mind. That was it. I left the image on the screen, a couple of minutes in silence, leaving them with their thoughts. Some students took the opportunity to look out the window or examine their finger nails, but most knew what was expected of them.

I then played In The Year 2525 by Zager & Evans; a late 60s early 70s classic most won’t have come across. I played it twice and after class they were singing it in the corridor!

Students were put in groups of four with half sent outside. The students outside were given a four page summary of Brave New World taken from the Spark Notes website and were told to take notes. Back in the class the other half of the groups watched a video of Brave New World made by Spark Notes and took notes.

The groups were then reunited and they were expected

to synthesise their findings and information. This proved quite difficult to implement at first, as it relied on the students taking control of their own learning process while I took a back seat. The first time we did it, a subsequent quiz showed between 66% and 75% of the class did nothing or next to nothing!

As they synthesised I walked around asking random questions. Why would society not want families? Can you imagine a life without a family? Who benefits from people having no family or religion? Why would society want to give people drugs like Soma? The idea is to get kids to think that knowledge needn’t come from a teacher’s mouth but can also come from self discovery.

When someone drew a parallel with North Korea I breathed an inward sigh of relief.

Later, I dropped the video because I felt they spoke too quickly, but found out the students were finding it themselves on the Internet. Some even watched the whole three hours!

Next lesson they were given a quiz designed to allow them to show off their research, as well as how technology now changes or controls their lives. They were not being asked who John was, but why was he uncomfortable in the World State, or being asked to identify their relationship with technology and how it changes their lives.

After the quiz it was time for vocabulary work. I have deliberately avoided giving definitions for difficult words in the text because I wanted them to understand the meaning of the story in relation to the questions I initially asked. I asked them to read through the summary again and write words or phrases they were unfamiliar with on the board. I then explained that they were going to work out the meanings themselves, which didn’t go down well.

With the vocabulary out of the way, it was time to prepare them for the final task of the lesson, which would be presented in the third lesson. I wanted them to give a presentation extolling the virtues of the World State. This would be a challenge academically because they had only been exposed to the views of John, an outsider, and Bernard, a disaffected resident; they were being expected to fill in the blanks themselves!

I wanted them to identify four main ideas as justification for the World State. Not by guessing, not by implying but from the material we had covered. I wanted the students to step out of their skin and consider the World State from a very different perspective to their own.

I then spent half an hour in the persona of an Alpha mixing with Savages and must admit I thoroughly enjoyed it. The idea was for them to play a role with biases and prejudices. And that worked! In fact it was like shackles had been released as they threw themselves into the task. Forget the scoring, and I wish I could, for me the biggest joy of this lesson was seeing kids who are normally quiet pushing themselves to speak with emotion, to use body language, to speak naturally and not in a forced recital of memorized notes they neither understood, nor cared for.

One argument I have heard against the use of materials like Brave New World is that it isn’t relevant to the students’ lives. I see nothing wrong with taking them out of their comfort zone and have them look for a different perspective. Surely, the mere fact that students had gone and downloaded the movie and watched it from beginning to end without being prompted suggests their interest was piqued.

They weren’t watching Brave New World because they wanted to get a better score. No, they watched it because they were interested and wanted to find out more, even if it was just a case of finding out how the story ended. This intrinsic motivation was one of many pleasing factors I took from the lesson.

Educating by a n t o n y s u t t o n

One of the few things I remember from when I was seven or eight years old was being introduced to the 1812 Overture in class. I hated it of course; boring, fuddy duddy music. But it stayed with me and I don’t know why. Perhaps it is because it was so different. I don’t remember the context now, but I think it probably revolved around trying to imagine what the music was saying to us.

A BRAveNeW LeSSoN

PLAN

AntonY Sutton antony is a freelance writer based in Jakarta. please send comments and suggestions to [email protected]


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I have always made fun of English people who seem to think that any foreigner will understand them as long as they speak very loudly, very slowly and very clearly. I have always considered this a uniquely English form of arrogance, but it has nothing to do with being English or being arrogant. As it turns out, the Russians do it as well and it is hilarious to be on the receiving end. They repeat whatever it is they are saying over and over again in Russian, and each time they say it they move a little closer, speak a little louder, get a little more animated and use fewer and clearer words.

Yesterday I asked a policeman where I could buy a train ticket to St. Petersburg. I imagined his response would translate into English something like this: (Face at normal distance, accompanied by casual pointing.) “Ah, you want the Leningradsky Train Station. Walk down to the end of this road, turn left, then walk about 200 meters. You will see the train station on your left.” Then, following the completely blank stare from me and associated map fumbling and pointing: (Face at half normal distance, accompanied by purposeful pointing.)

“Leningradsky Train Station. This way. 200 meters. Station on left.” Then after I smile and point in the same direction for a second before pointing back to the map: (Noses almost touching, accompanied by train impressions, frantic, purposeful pointing and long pauses with slight head shaking.) “LENINGRADSKY… TRAIN… THAT WAY… ON THE LEFT... ON LEFT! LEFT!” By this time I am just laughing and shaking my head and the Russian either does the same or looks bewildered at my stupidity and walks away. I guess it’s just human nature.

And they really do like to drink vodka at every opportunity, and they do love to share it with everyone. Grizzly bears in party hats and all.

Requests for directions are generally met with blank stares or apologetic smiles or just ignored completely. People in restaurants and hotels do their best to help them and sometimes manage to convey information successfully (usually with the aid of makeshift sign language and drawings). Then, when they actually strike gold and find someone they can communicate with, they just want to burst into tears and hug them.

As an Englishman in Russia things are very much the same. There are virtually no signs in English and the Russian Cyrillic alphabet is both similar and different to the modern Latin alphabet in very confusing and amusing ways. Making sense of it is fun because some letters look exactly the same as letters used in English, but they are pronounced the way we would pronounce other English letters. For example the Cyrillic letter P has the same sound as the English R. The Cyrillic letter C is the same as the English letter S. The H sounds like the English N. So the Russian for “restaurant” is “pectopah” which represents “restoran” – but the way they say it doesn’t sound anything like the way you just said it in your head.

I am writing this in a rooftop restaurant in St. Petersburg on day five of my first ever visit to Russia. Since I was young I have wanted to visit the former USSR and in my mind the mystery of the cold war and the spectre of communism

have always lurked very tangibly behind a uniquely Russian form of modern capitalism. Being in the country has so far done nothing to change my perception. Visiting Russia is like dancing with a grizzly bear wearing a party hat. Very amusing and great fun, but all the while you know that if you accidentally step on its toes it will kill you with a single blow of its giant paw and devour you in a second.

Being a tourist, Russia brings home what it must be like in London for foreigners who don’t recognise the Latin alphabet and don’t speak English. Very few people speak their language or are impressed by the fact that they are there. They don’t recognize signposts or anything written.

Extended Edition's Quiz:the literature quizscan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win:2 NiGht'S StaY at the ParK hOtel, BaNDuNG FOr 2 PeOPle!

Congratulations to anya Murtiana for winning a case of Albens Cider!

Across: 1. Account 8. HAirnet 9. courier 10. olivier 11. Apple 13. DesperADo 15. sAcreD cow 18. eAten 21. Monster 22. prAirie 23. ADvAnce 24. tAllboy

Down: 1. AccrA 2. cHuMp 3. uniteD we stAnD 4. tHroes 5. DiviDeD we fAll 6. AnginA 7. stereo 12. puMA 14. Dine 15. siMiAn 16. cAnovA 17. cArpet 19. tHrob 20. neeDy

*Answers for edition 102

Across1 one tHAt cAuses trouble (8-5)8 spArkle (7)9 public swiMMing pool -

Ablutions (5)10 city slicker (4)11 treAcHerous (8)13 pressing (6)14 constAnt - plAce for Horses (6)17 relAting to books, etc. (8)19 Droop (4)21 Melvin, AutHor (5)22 coMMitteD to pAper (7)24 How opposite cAn you get? (13)

Down1 fAce - fool (3)2 HiDings (AnAg) - pArty (7)3 Detest (4)4 insect witH pincers (6)5 freeDoM to get ArounD (8)6 pool - puss (5)7 Able to bounce bAck (9)10 be oDD blue (AnAg) (6,3)12 secret plot or AffAir (8)15 port (witH fAsHion?) (7)16 pArt of cHest (6)18 JewelleD HeADDress (5)20 MetAl (4)23 ArcHAic negAtive (3)

for tHe MAcet MinD

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Light Entertainment by e a M o n n s a D l e r

“.. she's only 18 but she really,genuinely thinks i'm handsome ..”


New Mum in Town by s o P H i e c H ava n e l

what are the main elements of Indonesian fashion?There are two main elements, the kebaya and the batik. The kebaya today is basically a very fitted blouse that would showcase the women’s curves. Traditionally it would be long-sleeved and modest, but with variations added nowadays, it can be no sleeves and “peekaboo” transparent. It is actually the sexiest garment you can get away with wearing. Different parts of Indonesia have different cuts or styles of kebaya. For example, the Sundanese (West Java) kebaya would have a trapezium heart-shaped neckline, whilst the Balinese kebaya would have a boxed-cut neckline and front opening. One would wear the kebaya usually with a piece of handmade kain, or loosely translated as sarong, and here the options are limitless with each ethnic group (in Indonesia we have more than 300) claiming their own (contemporary or old) batik, ikat, and songket motifs. If one ethnic group does not already have a typical motif (such as the Betawi—the original ethnic group of Jakarta), you can be sure they are working with the local government to explore and produce their own, which is always fascinating to keep an eye on. Contemporary motifs for kain are also trending; if you are a math geek look out for the computer-generated fractal batiks.

If expat women want to wear traditional Indonesian

clothes, what is appropriate for a wedding, a cocktail party,

a birthday party, a diplomatic gathering, a business meeting? For a wedding you can actually go as glam, or even as white as you like, there is really no rule as you can be assured you could never outdo the bride’s maxed-out, heavy-beaded style, however hard you try.

For a cocktail party, go for beautiful modern kebayas or wear something traditional, but styled more contemporarily, perhaps have a piece of kain turned into a long cocktail dress. For birthday parties, wear something fun that doesn’t constrain you, for example a cute oversized kebaya with fitted pants and a statement belt or your casual clothes, but styled with a light kain scarf.

As for diplomatic gatherings or business meetings, go for something tailored like a batik blazer/top and some chunky accessories matched with a plain bottom, or wear a dress-suit made completely from a piece of kain if you are daring and do play with colour. It is actually quite accepted here at a serious office setting.

And for men?Definitely have that piece of batik or ikat shirt, choose one with a softer material or one that doesn’t make you sweat. As the handmade pieces can be quite pricy, do take your time to choose a motif you will not regret wearing elsewhere. And also have a batik tie, they are great conversation starters.

what is a big no? Especially with kebayas, make sure they are fitted to your body (unless they are intentionally designed to be big). Have them tailor-made and avoid buying off the rack if you can because all women’s body sizes are different. There is nothing more unflattering than wearing a flabby kebaya. Also, please don’t buy the computer printed batiks, they are much cheaper, yes, but really do make an impact on closing down the practice of small “real” batik workshops that make everything handmade. Traditionally, we believe that each handmade piece carries the “soul” of the crafters, and computer-printed motifs are just bland in this regard. On top of that, it kills the local economy.

When not to wear traditional? I can’t really pinpoint as we love seeing it worn more and more today. It keeps the tradition and the Indonesian spirit alive in such modern times. I suppose the only no-no is don’t wear a kebaya that makes you itch at your event (try the fabric out before purchasing).

what is trending right now in Indonesia? There is a lot more play in cuts, trims, and appliqués. Indonesian trends used to focus on anything over-the-top and feminine, but now we are seeing a shift towards cutting back and fashion being more subdued or edgy. Modern textiles are being introduced to work with traditional settings. What is great that is still trending is the workmanship alive in couture houses. Expats wouldn’t have guessed straight away that in Indonesia there exists a vibrant layer of the couture houses like you would have in Paris, only much more accessible to all classes. Here, Indonesians have one-of-a-kind garments made for them as often as eating nasi goreng.

It is hard to talk about Indonesian fashion without talking about skin. Most beauty

products sold in Indonesia are advertised as whitening products. why is it so important for people, especially women, to have a white complexion? That is indeed sad, but true. It started in the early 90s when one mainstream drugstore brand made their line of whitening products and suddenly every skincare brand followed and has their own. Even the very upscale brands release their whitening products that are only sold in Asia. As someone dark-skinned myself, I found it impossible at one point to find a powder or foundation that matched my skin tone. Everything on the market used to be fair and made me look like I wore a mask. It is one thing to want clear, unblemished skin, but a whole other borderline-racist thing to want different skin tones that blatantly state white is what beauty is. It wasn’t an issue before the 90s, I think, but the media have a way of moulding people into this very narrow way of self-imaging. I wouldn’t say it’s about women wanting to look like bules, but women become insecure of their natural skin colour because the media supports this. Women, therefore, think it’s important because it is so expected that it becomes a whole “culture”. It’s a trophy thing; men look for mates who are fair, mothers hope their babies are born fair, brides-to-be are shunned from going out in the sunlight in fear they will get a tan. It’s ridiculous. I am happy to say that more fashion and products are using dark-skinned models, choices for news anchors and TV presenters are darker-skinned nowadays, and hopefully this will have some impact.

One last question. what is the best thing about making clothes for expat clienteles?The thought that my babies (garments I create) will be taken home and worn all over the world and will be topics of conversation at events, which will then start conversations about Indonesia. That is always a good thing.

About Putu

Born in Indonesia, Putu grew up in the UK and is a graduate in Design from Monash

University in Melbourne.

Website: www.poutoucouture.com

Indonesia has a rich fashion tradition, and since tailoring is quite affordable, many are tempted to go for tailor-made pieces. You’ve probably heard about batik and kebaya, but do you know what is really fashionable and what is just cheap and shabby? To understand a bit more of Indonesian fashion, what to wear and what not to wear, I met with Putu Andayani Prasuti Pradnyana, the designer behind Poutou Couture.

what to wear andwhat not to wearin Indonesia

SophiE ChAvAnElSophie Chavanel is a Canadian communications girl and a confirmed globe-trotter. As a Journalist, she has worked for different media outlets in Canada and overseas. She is also a Communications delegate for the International Federation of the Red Cross emergency team. Sophie is a new mother. She moved to Indonesia in March 2013 with her husband and daughter.


SpECiAl EvEnt

Clean Up Jakarta DayJakarta Expat goes green! Clean Up Jakarta Day is a gateway to a cleaner Jakarta. Brought to you by Jakarta Ex-pat, Clean Up Jakarta Day aims to raise awareness about the detrimental effects of litter-ing. On November 10th 2013, everyone is encouraged to join our cleanup of Jakarta’s major streets. Organised sites include Kemang, Thamrin, Pluit, Sudirman, Gelora Bung Karno, and more. There are now 11 sites you can join. You may also nominate a site to be cleaned up through the web-site. Volunteers will start the cleanup in the morning, sepa-rating recyclable and non-recy-clable materials, which will be transported to the appropriate site for further recycling pro-cesses. Let’s stop littering and clean Jakarta! Sign up now and do your part for the city. Go to www.cleanupjakartaday.org or visit the Twitter page (@cleanupjktday) or Facebook page (Clean up Jakarta Day). E-mail: [email protected] for more information.

nEtwoRkinG

4th eU-InDonesIa BUsIness DIalogUeiness Dialogue (EIBD) is a win-dow of opportunity to increase investment and trade in the European Union – Indonesia re-lationship. This is a chance for CEOs of Indonesia’s corporations to meet higher-level representa-tives of European companies and discuss development plans, new projects, etc. The EIBD will be held on 21-22 October 2013. The sectors to be discussed in EIBD include Textiles, Medical & Phar-maceutical, Apparel & Footwear, Automotive, Food & Beverage, and many more. All discussions will be centered around the theme ‘Adding Value to a Strategic Commercial Partnership: Moving Towards an EU – Indonesia Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA). Please visit www.eibd-conference.com for more information.

InDonesIa InternatIonal InfrastrUCtUre 2013 ConferenCe anD exhIBItIonWith the rate of development of infrastructure in Indonesia as fast as it is now, this exhibition is a great platform for buyers, sup-pliers and government officials to exchange ideas as well as to discuss sustainable infrastruc-ture development. The Indonesia International Infrastructure Con-ference and Exhibition (IIICE) 2013 offers investment opportu-nities, information on new laws and regulations, and countless networking possibilities. Join the many civil designers, engineers, constructors, and other infrastructure businesses at the Jakarta Convention Center for the 2013 IIICE on 13-15 November 2013. Visit www.indonesiainfrastructure.org or call (021) 3913037 for more information on the event.

MuSiC

gUInness arthUr’s DayRock the night with One Repub-lic, Mew and Club 8 at the Guin-ness Arthur’s Day celebration! These big names will perform at the JIExpo Hall D2, Kemayoran, on October 26th 2013. One Re-public, a band whose lead vo-cal is the world-renowned Ryan Tedder, is known for their catchy songs like ‘Apologize’. Mew and Club 8 will also bring the fun with their own colour of music. This event is strictly 21+. Tickets are sold at gad.loket.com , Ibu Dibjo, 7-Eleven, Circle K, Panorama Tour, Disc Tarra branches, and Aquarius Mahakam.

SpoRtS

sports & rUnnIng expo 2013The 2013 Sports and Running Expo is a pre-event to the Jakarta Marathon. The expo will be held two days prior to Jakarta Mara-thon, on October 25th – 26th 2013. Runners for the marathon are encouraged to attend the expo in order to get their BIB numbers (runners’ identifica-tion number) and for last minute registrations. Multiple brands of sporting apparel and equipment will also exhibit their products for runners to enjoy. For those

who want to come just for the festivities can participate in dem-onstrations for wushu, capoeira, aerobics, etc. On top of all that, healthy cuisines and health prod-ucts will be sold at the exhibition. Come and enjoy the pre-event Sports & Running Expo on October 25th-26th at Gedung Serbaguna Senayan and enjoy the Jakarta Marathon on October 27th 2013. Visit www.thejakartamarathon.com

oktoBerfest MeMBers toUrnaMentGolf enthusiasts are invited to join the Oktoberfest Members Tourna-ment, brought to you by Senayan National Golf Club. Members and guests are encouraged to play the Shotgun start tournament that will take place on October 26th 2013 at Senayan National Golf Club. Reg-istration deadline for the tourna-ment is October 19th 2013. There are a number of contests; Best Net Overall, Ladies’ Flight, Nearest to the Pin, Longest Drive, etc. Prizes include TVs, motorcycles, Samsung Tablets, IPhones, and many more. For more details, please e-mail [email protected] or call (021) 5710181.

ChARitY

aDaM gyorgy at tUgU kUnstkrIng paleIsTugu Kunstkring Paleis invites you to a fundraising event with Adam Gyorgy, from the Adam Gyorgy Foundation, as the guest of honor. It will be an evening of music, education, and friendship. Adam Gyorgy is a Hungarian professional pianist who is active in his founda-tion, Adam Gyorgy Castle Academy, where he teaches piano to students. Proceeds from this night’s fundrais-er will be donated to the Adam Gy-orgy Foundation in order to provide scholarships for children who are passionate about music to attend the Adam Gyorgy Castle Academy. Adam is scheduled to perform in a piano concert for this event. Partici-pation fees will include wine, gour-met dinner, concert attendance and charitable donation. The program will start at 18:30 at the Tugu Kunstkring Paleis, Jl. Teuku Umar No. 1, Menteng. Come and experience Adam’s music October 16th 2013. Call (021) 3900899 or e-mail [email protected] for more information and tickets.

It’s easy to deride stingy expats who bicker over insignificant sums on the grounds that: “It’s not the amount involved, it’s the principle.”

In recent months I have been repeatedly short-changed at minimarts, mostly at Indomaret, which started business in 1988 and now has over 8,000 outlets across the country. Why care if I get ripped off by a measly few hundred rupiah each transaction? Because it’s the principle. Really. If Indonesia tolerates petty pilfering, then it cannot expect to stop higher level corruption. People need to reject every form of corruption.

A purchase of four items at Indomaret comes to Rp.32,300. I hand over Rp.50,000 and the cashier gives me Rp.17,000 change. I ask for the remaining Rp.700 change and he tells me: “Sorry, small money is finished.” I observe sales for about 20 minutes and notice that every customer is denied small change. Generally it’s male cashiers doing the pilfering during the late night-shift.

Sometimes the cash register is turned off, usually from 1am to 5.30am, so there’s no receipt and the cashier overcharges for the total. Indomaret tries to clamp down on this problem by promising a gift if there is no receipt. This month, a poster announces a free litre of cooking oil if you don’t get a receipt. Last night I purchased a couple of items, was short-changed Rp.300 and received no receipt. So I cheerfully requested my free cooking oil. “Finished, mister,” the cashier told me. He also claimed the cash register was dead and had no paper. When I inquired about making a complaint, the cash register came back to life, complete with paper to print a receipt, and I was given correct change.

Based on my observations, cashiers in my local store pilfer an average of Rp.100 per minute, which comes to Rp.144,000 per day. Now, imagine if 40% of the country’s 8,348 Indomaret outlets had crooked cashiers. That would come to over Rp.480 million ($41,590) per day or $15 million a year. More likely, almost all outlets are honest and the skimming is negligible. An online search for “Indomaret” and “penipuan” (scam) yields only 128,000 results.

Indomaret deserves praise for its philanthropy, so it’s a shame that some staff give it a bad reputation. Last year, the company had a program where

customers could “opt” to automatically give their change to the United Nations Children’s Fund (Unicef). Indomaret reported that from May 15 to December 30, 2012, it collected over Rp.6.3 billion (then worth $662,350) for the charity. Unicef Indonesia’s 2012 Annual Report states that $608,281 was received from the chain.

Some customers complained their change was donated without consent. “I don’t want to give to Unicef because they spend so much on their staff,” says one shopper. “And they have enough operational funds from various sources. I prefer to give to small, local NGOs. But the cashier just gave my money to Unicef without asking me.”

This year, from March-July, Indomaret raised funds for the Indonesian Red Cross (PMI), although the amount collected is yet to be publicized. In the second half of 2011, Indomaret raised Rp.5.9 billion ($653,570) for PMI. A spokesperson said the aid was used to purchase “two mobile blood donation units and for other humanitarian activities”. Last week, a cashier told me my missing change was for PMI (even though the program finished in July). I asked why my “donation” wasn’t printed on the receipt. No reply.

Indomaret staff say they earn Rp.2.4 million a month (for eight hours a day, six days a week), which is just over minimum wage. I asked one cashier if he would stop taking small change if his salary was higher. “No,” he replied, “because most customers don’t care.”

These kids are earning barely $230 a month, so why begrudge them the right to augment their meagre salaries? Because theft is wrong. Some minimarts in the past gave customers a piece of candy in lieu of small change, though this practise has largely stopped.

Old-fashioned warung usually never short-change customers because the shopkeeper always rounds the price up or down. Likewise, my local 7-Elevens price everything in multiples of Rp.500.

If the government goes ahead with its plan to redenominate the rupiah next year, cutting three zeroes off the currency, then perhaps I can just whine about cashiers giving precedence to queue-jumpers and failing to kill cockroaches. It’s the principle, you see..

Small Change, Big Scam


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ming Pool and suit for Family with strategic located. [email protected]

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Villa for Sale. Located in Sawa-ngan, Depok, an upcoming res-idential area. Total size (land/house) 602/300 m2 featuring a 10x6 meter overflow pool, gazebo; includes a living room, dining area, walk-in wardrobe, makeup area, master bedroom, master bathroom w/ jacuzzi, guest toilet, 2 car garage, maid kitchen, waiting room, 3 maid bedroom+bathroom, ser-

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Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Jakarta Expat!

Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 15.000 copies bi-weekly.

conditions:Personal classifieds : Free of charge / 50 words max commercial classifieds : rp. 100,000 / 0 - 50 words : rp. 200,000 / 50 - 100 words - Property listings are considered as commercial.- For adding an image / company logo in our printed issue another rp. 150,000 needs to be charged.

Send in your classifieds to [email protected]

Non-Commercial Classifieds are still Free!Send in your classifieds to [email protected] issue deadline: 16th october 2013

Spotted Pic

Spotted by Rolf t


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jobslooking for work

Looking for Cook/Butler for our private villa in Kerobokan Bali for a family of three. Relocation provided for right candidate. Excellent working conditions apply to [email protected] or 0817122755.

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Looking for a part time staff. In-donesian native, English fluent. 4 times a week (including Satur-day) 2-3 hours per day. At home if you have PC and internet. Some-times in South Jakarta. Customer care, FB update, Excel, etc. Miwa - [email protected]

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jobs Available

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Services

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Need flexible courses? Want to study privately at home, office or in a class? Bahasa Indonesia class starts in October at the American Club. Private classes also available for Bahasa / Eng-lish/ Mandarin. Qualified teach-ers & excellent materials.021-68888246/0813-85590009 [email protected], www.sibschool.com

Ade Rayanti School of Ballet. Ballet classes for 4 years old adult. Vaganova system (Rus-sia), Patron Alexis Rassine (London). Children and profes-sional grade have annual per-formances. Private classes by appointment. Address: Jalan Delman Indah 8/20 Tanah Kusir, Jakarta Selatan. Phone: 0815 9705878/0816 4836406 E-mail: [email protected]: www.aderayanti.com

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YOUR PATHWAY TO 2ND YEAR AT UNIVERSITY OVERSEAS. Ac-counting? Finance? Marketing? Management? Media & Commu-nication? IT? MIBT Jakarta cam-pus provides programs that al-low you to enter the second year of university overseas. Located in a bright new modern building with facilities that support first-class teaching and learning ac-tivities, MIBT Jakarta facilitates your transition from high school to university level education in Australia and other countries. Special direct pathway to Deakin

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othersLearning is always fun! Classi-cal Piano Course for Children.Indonesian English speaking teacher is available to give the lesson at student's residence. Experienced in teaching piano for children starting from be-ginner up to advanced level - piano practice and music the-ory. If interested, for further info you may send message to: [email protected] or text to : 0816.17856074 and a quick response to you will fol-low. Sincerely Musical!

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I have a Kettler Cambridge M rowing machine for sale,never used, "a purchase without thought. IDR 5,000,000 (new price 9.5M IDR). Terry.contact [email protected]

RARE HUBLOT SWISS WATCH.Hublot Swiss Gentleman’s Watch, White Face, Iconic Rubber Strap, Sweep Hand, Date, Recent Full S$1,200 Service at Hublot Ge-

neva Workshop through Time Place Singapore, One Owner, US$2,500, HP 0812 1385 8512I am looking for a basic 3 seater couch for my maids quarters for her use during the day. Noth-ing fussy, just basic looking. Do not want to pay the earth ;-) please email me or txt me on 081290761033

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Looking for Sales/Marketing person to joinour dynamic team at Jakarta Expat.

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Please send CVs to [email protected] right candidate will receive an

attractive package.

Jakarta Expat - issue 103 - Literature

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