Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

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JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER | FREE NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2009 Let’s Talk TURKEY RUSTIC ROASTS The Accidental Baker

Transcript of Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

Page 1: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER| FREE NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2009

Let’s TalkTURKEY

RUSTIC ROASTSThe Accidental

Baker

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5. President’sMessage

6. ShortOrder-What’sNew

8. TalkingTurkeyatHu’u

10. Oscar’sWay

12. AModernMan

14. TheCulinaryJourneyofChristianHinckley

24. TheAccidentalBaker

26. WineTails 28. CaféCouture: LocalInspirations

29. HattenTurns15

30. OnTheRocks

32. Chef’sXmas: CulinaryChristmas

33. GlobalChefs

34. BCPlunches

37. YoungChefsUpdate

38. ChefsDayOut

contentsTASTEteamTASTE

editorialconsultant Sarah Dougherty

contributors Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina Valkenburg,

Es Dee, Kayti

coordinator&marketing Miranti Amandya, Natalia Iswara

photographers Dewandra, Sarah

graphicdesigners DeKa

distribution Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi

office BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn) Travel Works Communication International Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali,

Indonesia Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095 Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.balichefs.com

prepress&printingby PT. Dian Rakyat

TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at www.balichefs.com

Dear Culinary Members,

We have had a tremendous year and this seems a great time to thank the entire culinary community for the incredible support we have had throughout the year. Chefs who have given their time to strengthen the association, the suppliers who have sponsored our events and competitions and the young chefs who have brought new energy and optimism to the Indonesian culinary world.

With a New Year approaching and still many great events on the horizon we have good reason to feel very optimistic and excited about the culinary world we live in. The aim of the BCP and ACP is to create an environment where we are always striving for the best and we have been recognised internationally and at home in this quest. This feels very satisfying. With both of us as Indonesian nationals heading the sister associations we have every reason to feel proud of the standards of excellence we have achieved. With the brotherhood of chefs from around the world we still have far to go and yet it is safe to say that our future looks very bright.

In the New Year our Indonesian team will represent all of Asia in Chile after winning the Global Chef Asia trophy in Hong Kong. Bali has the honour of taking Indonesia and Asia to the prestigious final leg of the Global Chef competition, and for us it is a little like sending a team to the Olympics. We will be cheering them on. Simply reaching this level of competition is a prestigious honour, which is well deserved, and it is a first for us. The WACS World Congress will be held at the same time and so many of us will be there to watch the event.

Our pastry chefs have done really well and will also be representing us in Lyons, France, home of pastry. The two young Balinese pastry chefs who will represent Indonesia have worked very hard and are at the top of their profession. We applaud their skill and all the mentors and supporters they have had within the association and beyond it. We also acknowledge the generosity of our sponsors who have made it possible for us to compete. International competitions are costly to enter and we rely on our sponsors and friends in the community.

We are pleased to see the association is such great shape right now and encourage new members to join us in supporting our young chefs club which has proved a popular and highly successful program.

To all of you we wish a very happy and festive New Year, and to those celebrating Christmas, a very Merry one.

Vindex Tengker and Made Putra.

presidents’ message

Cover photograph of southern style Turkey with all the trimmingsPrepared by Philip Mimbimi from Nutmegs at Hu’uPhoto by Dewandra Djelantik

In this issue we asked some of our chefs what they would like for Christmas, so you can see what’s missing from your list. If cooking at home is on the agenda, we had Philip at Hu’u cook us up a fabulous USA style turkey dinner. Oscar at St Regis cooked us some roasts that would make great alternatives, and Danish sandwiches for boxing day. Of course we’d have to put them on Kayuapi’s incredible wood-fired bread and to be patriotic we’d wash it down with some mimosas made with Hatten’s Jepun. Some of Katrina’s wine cocktails would make a nice start to the day, or perhaps it would finish us.

New Year’s Eve is normally a wash out in Bali and KuDeTa is packed to the brim so we might head up to Ayana, stay the night and party at The Rock Bar. As everyone else is partying our chefs are busier than ever during the festive season, so we’ll look forward to catching up again in January.

Have a very happy new year,

The Taste Team.

Taste Magazine

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short orders short orders

“Christmas is always a very busy time for bakers,” explains Denis at Carrefour. “It is a time when customers are looking for traditional products associated with so many treasured memories.” Always anticipating the demands of his customers, Denis has been busy testing festive recipes from around the world. To sample his culinary delights of the world, drop in to Carrefour’s bakery. If you have a special request this jolly baker is happiest when his customers walk away happy.Contact Carrefour on (0361) 8477 222

Mozaic has until now been the only Bali restaurant recognised by the judges of the Miele guide. Joining them now in Asia’s top ten list is the stylish eatery that becomes the hottest party venue when it counts, KuDeTa. Bali’s Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique and KuDeTa have been voted among the Top 10 Restaurants in Asia in the 2009 edition of the Miele Guide. The Miele Guide claims to be Asia’s first truly independent and authoritative guide to the region’s finest restaurants, written by food experts. “We were aware we were in the running and went to Singapore to collect our award, it’s great,” says Donni at KuDeTa. Looks like New Year’s Eve will be busier than ever at the luxe venue. For enquiries contact: [email protected]

More than just a locally based wine, fifteen years down the track Hatten are expanding, improving and updating their tropical world wines and giving them a slick new face. At a gala event held in Sanur the new labels were dramatically unveiled one by one. According to sales and marketing manager Gigi van Kuijk the time had come for a fresh, sleek look. Sadly the beautiful artwork of earlier labels has been laid to rest but the new look Hatten is contemporary and in keeping with the company’s excellent growth. For more information on Hatten’s growth read our article in this issue.

Canggu Club is fast becoming the venue of choice for the big race, which all Australians know as The Melbourne Cup. This year the club starts the revelry at the indecent hour of 10 am with live race coverage, champagne, buffet lunch, fashions on the field, sweepstakes and rumour has it, a sly bookie or two.This year, in addition to the single entry tickets available to members for Rp150,000 and non-members at Rp250,000 (including champagne cocktail and lunch), the club is offering VIP tents. For $1500, companies, or friends, can book a private marquee on the lawn and invite ten guests to enjoy the race, enjoy lunch, complimentary sweepstake tickets and race books. Company banners will be competing for space among the race colours and fashionable fillies.For bookings contact Canggu Club on [email protected]

Hatten LaunchesA New Look

Place Your Bets

Festive Bakingat Carrefour We are seeing more and more of the shiny, smart RATIONAL

SelfCooking Centre® showing up in the island’s best kitchens and now to support the buyers, RATIONAL have introduced technical support and service centres to Bali and Jakarta. RATIONAL Partners, PT Gastro Gizi Sarana and PT Wahana Boga Nusantara (Lotus Food Services) can respond to service calls, troubleshoot, carry service parts and offer service maintenance contracts to all RATIONAL users and customers for CPC, CombiMaster (CM) and SelfCooking Centre® (SCC) lines.PT Gastro Gizi Sarana (02 – 1563 7373 or [email protected])Lotus Food Services (0361 – 701650 ext 206/non food or [email protected])Millie Chan (Sales Director for Asia Pacific)RATIONAL International (+65 9770 9820 or [email protected]

RATIONAL Introduces Full Service Centres

Executive Chef Dorin Schuster of The Legian came across a local product that he felt was so good he approached Lotus Distribution to act as the local agent. Farmed Java barramundi is raised in open sea water with no antibiotics or hormones. It is farmed in circular floating cages held off shore ensuring that they are still in sea water until they are farmed and flown fresh the same day. Lunch at The Legian is always a treat, the barramundi fillet served by Dorin is proof that local producers are working together with chefs to satisfy the local demand for high quality products.For more information on Java Barramundi contact Lotus on (0361) 701650.

What a Barra

KuDeTa Joins Mozaicon Miele List

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The Americans have made the turkey their own in many ways. No sooner is the Thanksgiving season over than Christmas comes around, and despite all attempts to modernise the Christmas dinner, turkey still holds pride of place on many festive tables.

As turkey season approaches Taste decided to go to the source and asked Philip Mimbimi of Nutmegs Restaurant at Hu’u to prepare his idea of a great turkey roast.

Chefs have all sorts of tricks up their culinary sleeves but when it comes to down home cooking, surprising how many reach back to their mother’s recipes, Philip is no exception.

He says in his neighbourhood there were a lot of Mexican families, so after his family sat down to the traditional roast, they would rock up to the neighbours who enjoyed their turkey stuffed into enchiladas. The protein-rich, low-fat bird has a lot going for it and whatever way you slice it, the turkey is a sure sign of a celebration.

Talking Turkeyat Hu’u

Hu’u will be offering a thanksgiving feast with all the trimmings and a traditional Christmas lunch. For bookings Ph: 736576. Jl Oberoi, Petitenget, Seminyak.

CRANBERRY SAUCECranberries, frozenButterShallots, mincedGarlic, mincedOrange juice, fresh squeezedCinnamon stickStar aniseStockSaltPepper, black fresh groundParsley choppedPink peppercorns, dried

METHOD:Sweat the garlic and shallots in some butter. Then add all remaining ingredients except for the pink peppercorns and parsley. Simmer over low heat until the cranberries have slightly burst open. Add cornstarch and thicken to desired consistency. Remove from heat then add peppercorns and parsley. Adjust seasoning and taste. Serve room temperature or chilled as condiment.

CORNBREAD STUFFINGEggSourdough breadBacon, cooked, choppedGiblets, roastedSaltPepper, black fresh groundParsley freshThyme fresh

Corn kernels freshGarlic roastedButter

METHOD:Combine all ingredients and a bowl and mix well. Mix in the eggs to bind. Place in a well butter casserole dish and bake until firm. Cut and serve.

Cornbread stuffing

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Using different and more economical cuts of meat isn’t about cutting costs as much as it is about producing more flavourful dishes. While the mouth

may enjoy the smooth, buttery texture of wagyu, around the world people are looking back to the days of a simple juicy steak and a flavoursome roast.

OSCAR’S WAY

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1. Crisp pork belly with red cabbage, pickled cucumber + natural jus2. Oscar in his kitchen3. Side dishes ready for service4. Traditional Danish open sandwiches

Many Executive Chefs get too busy to cook, which is why Oscar Perez prefers working in a smaller hotel. The Danish chef who has put St Regis Resort, Bali on the map is one of the most enthusiastic cooks on the island and far from ready to hang up his jacket.

He can wax lyrical for hours about food and following our discussion on using a wider variety of meat than we are currently seeing on five-star menus, he offered to show Taste what could be achieved using lesser cuts of meat and local products.

“There is so much innovation in food now, genetically produced breeds, molecular gastronomy, the reaction is a trend going back to real flavours and textures in food. It is bound to happen,” he explains.

For inspiration for rustic dishes that are full of flavour, he harks back to his Danish roots.

“In Denmark we are very proud of our local food and so almost everything we use is local. The breed of cows we use for steaks and roast beef is the French Charolais.”

Naturally here this breed is not easily found so Oscar uses Australian angus from 1824, Australian wagyu and his favourite, dry-aged US beef. He is also very impressed with the local wagyu product, Tonketsu from Suntory. His pork is local, from Mama’s and the results are

astoundingly good.He is a great believer in supporting

local producers and believes that local chefs should do all they can to encourage and support them.

His local pork belly is first braised upside down in water at a low heat for about 30 minutes, then turned skin-side up and bathed in salt and some herbs and returned to the oven. LThe results belie claims that the local pork is too wet to achieve a good crackling, this pork is as good as you will find anywhere.

In Denmark pickles are widely used and in winter they are served to cut the fat in meaty dishes. To accompany the pork he serves pickled red cabbage and pickled cucumber, mashed potatoes and a rich jus.

For his roast beef he chooses a topside, a cheaper cut with very little fat. His technique is to cut off the surface fat, lay a layer of fresh thyme around the meat and then wrap the fat around the roast. Braise it for colour and then slow cook it in the oven until it reaches the desired done-ness. Let it rest and slice it to see the beautiful results.

The beef also gets the Danish treatment with a Danish version of the mustardy vegetable dish, piccalilli.

The beauty of all this roasted meat is the leftovers, the makings of two legendary Danish traditions; the

smorgasboard and the Danish open sandwich. Oscar has trained his staff to create the perfect sandwiches with traditional toppings.

St Regis is a truly international kitchen and to show the versatility Executive Sous Chef Balinese Agung Adriawan prepares a traditional Javanese beef stew which is normally made with second-grade topside. For his Semur, he has experimented with beef shank instead. The meat is marinated with a spice mix of coriander seed, garlic and candlenut then simmered slowly in sweet soy producing a fragrant Asian-style Osso Buco that falls apart on the fork.

“Diners are excited by what’s new, and having access to luxurious ingredients, but then tastes go to the other extreme. I feel like we are coming back to wanting more flavour in our food, more rustic food,” he says.

He says he is lucky to have learned home-style Danish cooking because many younger chefs aren’t exposed to it. He has experimented with translationg these dishes to a restaurant menu at St Regis, presenting them in a more modern way, and found it worked well.

He inspires all his cooks to be creative in the kitchen, under a very disciplined system that is not different to the one he rose through the ranks with, and he says his Balinese staff are among the best he has worked with.Ph. (0361) 77 37 30

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A Modern ManThe man responsible for creating Bangkay at the

Nikko seems very much a traditionalist and Nikko is committed to quality and freshness before innovation, the chef behind it however has very modern manners.

Masayasu Haruyama hails from Tokyo where he decided to take on a skill in preference to a profession, a world he saw risky as Japanese executives are at the mercy of their companies and live or die by their success.

He started as an apprentice and spent plenty of time peeling vegetables and washing dishes at a large hotel before deciding to take a job at a small restaurant where he was able to be involved in the process of creating food from delivery to service.

“In a large hotel you are exposed to only one area at a time. I wanted to see what happened from purchasing to the arrival of the food, to butchering and sauce making before choosing my specialty,” he says.

Masayasu has transcended the traditional world and made his way through many countries, been exposed to myriad methods and found inspiration in all sorts of unexpected places throughout Asia, the Middle East and Australia. He is a man of the world yet still bills himself as a Japanese chef firstly.

For over 17 years he worked with Hyatt. In Indonesia, Guam, China, Egypt, Dubai and Australia. He has worked with the best and learned from many of them.

Clearly motivated by success he happily talks about the man who introduced teppanyaki to America and championed the knife throwing theatrics that are most often associated

with. Benihana may have made it famous with their theatrics but the teppan grill has been a traditional style of cooking in Japan going back to the ‘40s.

In Masayasu’s world anything can be adapted and incorporated if it works. The basis of his cooking remains traditional in that he seeks harmony and freshness above all things.

“The enjoyment of textures from hard, soft, smooth, crisp, tender and mellow to include hot and cold, sweet and bitter, sour etc, all things must be in harmony in Japanese preparation and that includes the presentation as well,” he explains.

Any influences that work in harmony are acceptable and he admires the style of Nobu in stretching the limits.

The time he spent in Adelaide in Australia has had a profound effect as he found there an abundance of fresh produce and also discovered the many great wines from that region, many of which can be found on the Bangkay wine list.

“Basically my style of cooking is fundamentally Japanese but as I have learned new things it has changed slowly and I have adopted some western methods,” he explains.

The changes though are subtle and completely in keeping with a Japanese philosophy. Bangkay restaurant is the stage where he currently appears, where to next is anyone’s guess and for this chef that is wonderful.

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1. Teppan style theatrics2. Butterflied prawns3. Succulent beef with garlic4. Harmony in flavour, presentation and texture

Nikko Bali Resort and SpaJl Raya Nusa Dua SelatanPh. (0361) 77 33 77

Chef Masayasu

Stylish presentation at Bangkay

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The Amandari, Ubud, has recently engaged the services of a fine young chef, Christian

Hinckley. In honor of their twentieth anniversary in October Taste Magazine

talked to Christian about the value of tradition and the particular exciting challenges that

are created in upholding the great reputation of a well established much loved resort such

as The Amandari, Ubud.

BY KAYTI DENHAM

Christian Hinckley

THE CULINARY JOURNEY OF

Christian, for his youth, has had an inspiring journey. From the north–west coast of the United States he was lured by the opportunity to work for the recently un-retired “Chef of the Century,” Joel Robuchon, at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas in his eponymous restaurant. Serving a very sophisticated menu of traditional French Cuisine in the desert that is Las Vegas gave Christian his first taste of the slightly bizarre world of high class dining in unexpected surroundings so it was no wonder that he felt Bhutan was a natural next step!

Christian admits he has made some unusual choices but explains they are progressive, the journey, the other way round, he says would have been very different. The atmosphere and tranquility offered in Bhutan would not have prepared anyone for Vegas, yet the unusual synthesis of twenty four hour a day ‘glamour’ and the demands of a French master chef was the perfect preparation for the more independent position of chef at the Amankora of Bhutan.

Here in the landlocked kingdom, “The Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon” the absence of neon lights, fast cars and furious living gave Christian the challenge he was searching for and the ability to create exquisite dishes that combine high quality ingredients with a simple approach to preparation that provides guests with satisfaction and pleasure rather than just awe.

The move to Amandari seems to combine the elements of both Christian’s previous positions. Ubud attracts an eclectic variety of visitors, many of whom have come to rely on the welcome of the Amandari and return regularly to enjoy the beauty of the resort and the comfort it provides.

Christian understands the needs

of his guests well, their desire to find the familiar, but also have the choice of the unusual, to be able to depend of the best quality of ingredients, the freshest produce and make choices based around personal preferences.

With this in mind he is approaching subtle changes to the menu with great care, his love of fine ingredients and dealing with local producers has brought him in to contact with the best suppliers on the island so he can make good judgments about his markets and his customers.

A gentle shift will begin with the lunch menu and only when he has reached his idea of happiness will he consider the next change.

Christian understands very clearly what it is like to ‘need’ your ‘comfort’ food and has his own particular favorites. A big fan of Japanese food he also enjoys the Indonesian menu, especially, and I have yet to meet a chef who doesn’t enjoy this, Babi Guling. Though Christian is the first chef I have met

that likes to drink Guinness. No stranger to Bali, Christian had

visited with his family previously and loved it, being in Ubud amongst the tranquility of the forest and close to the ‘natural’ Bali is a dream come true, and with close friends from his earlier journeys also living and working on the island Christian is looking forward to embracing the best of both his previous ‘worlds’ in the always glamorous and only very slightly remote resort of the Amandari.

To illustrate Christian’s feel for freshness and flavours his selection for Taste includes the piquant Tuna Tartare with truffle mayo and teriyaki glaze, a beautiful Mahi Mahi dish with the lightness and aroma of lemongrass and coriander and a really superb standard, the Spaghetti Carbonara with a velvety parmesan cream, basil and summer vegetables. Through his intelligent choices Christian creates the perfect way to celebrate the essence of the Amandari.Ph. (0361) 975 333

Grilled watermelon, Mahi Mahi, lemongrass crème fraiche, coriander

Christian in Amandari’s organic garden

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Time and again I am struck by what happy people bakers are. According to BCP member, Denis, baker at Bali’s Carrefour, Denis, it is because what they create gives people pleasure. Perhaps it is that simple.

Former chef, Jean Philippe Ollivier is one such baker, a man so obsessed with his bread that he has rebuilt his wood-fired oven eight times in the five years since he embarked on this latest leg of his culinary journey.

The results speak for themselves, bread that is so wonderful to eat you can sense the incredible commitment in every mouthful, it’s crusty and chewy and full of flavour.

“I had been working as a chef for over thirty years and first came to Indonesia twenty two years ago,” he explains. His first job in Indonesia was as Executive Sous Chef at Bali Hyatt.

“I was the opening chef / F&B manager at Amanwana and over the years I have been part of many other opening teams including Maxim’s Restaurant in New York. My last

job was Executive Chef and F&B Director at Bali Intan Resort. When the second bomb went off I decided to take a break,” he explains.

He built his original oven to make bread purely for himself, but he got hooked, literally.

“I really wanted to have Warisan as my first client. When I took my samples to see Chef Doudou he placed an order straight away. At that time I was making the bread by hand and it nearly killed me filling that first order,” he laughs.

The wood fired bread is created on a natural starter, sea salt and reverse osmosis water. The starter is kneaded at slow speed and then proofed for at least eighteen hours at room temperature before being chilled, six hours to cool it down from 28 degrees C to 4 degrees C, ( the starter is cooled down by using -18 degree C ice pack) it is kept in a cooler at 4 degree C for at least 18 hours. The dough is kneaded again at slow speed and rested for one hour, cut and rested for another hour, loaves are

TheAccidental BakerTheAccidental Baker

then shaped by hand and rested half an hour more before being baked. It takes almost three days to make this bread,” he laughs.

This process however is no laughing matter to Olivier who has done enormous research and consulted experts from all over the world to create this bread.

Using mostly local flour he tops it up with whole grains of sunflowers, flaxseed and soaked wheat kernels for his multigrain, whole wheat and whole rye flour from Australia to make the rustic loaves and raisins and walnuts for his popular fruit loaf.

“The local flour is not ideal for this type of bread, so it takes time and skill to work with it,” he says. “A good baker knows how to work with different flours, and the flour does vary so the baker has to be in tune with it.”

Kayuapi is using over 4 tons of flour a month, although he won’t say exactly what his output is. He doesn’t advertise or seek out customers, they all come to him through word of mouth.

“My concept is to make this a café, the bread has taken over for a while but I am in the process of making the café,” he says although he is not sure if he will ever have a sign. “At first I was a little scared I think and then it became a selling point,” he laughs.

The main feature of the café will be his incredible collection of philodendrons, as old as Kayuapi, which he names as he takes you around. The menu will feature rustic specialties like his tomato tart and another of his obsessions, very good coffee. The café overlooks the open bakery.

“Experts have come here and told me I was crazy, others too, but I believe in keeping everything very natural. I don’t want to put processed food into my body and I won’t feed them to anyone else, this all feels very natural to me,” he says of his food philosophy.

Training his staff and letting go a little has been yet another challenge

for him. Trying to instil the same passion in them and make them feel involved has been part of the process but with the bread being baked in a big open kitchen overlooking the philodendron garden, it makes for a pleasant working environment and he feels the bakers are happy.

Olivier claims to have the most ecologic wood fired oven on the planet as the coffee wood consumption is very small. It took three people six months to build the “blue oven”, it weighs fifty tons, the twelve tons of refractory mass requires four tons of insulation mainly vermiculite (a natural mineral) to keep the heat in.

An almost 24 hour a day operation with very little wood used to keep the oven at the constant temperature of 264 degree C, this is truly a labour of love, and bread lovers have responded – from restaurants to households, Kayuapi’s wood-fired bread has people raving on like lunatics – perhaps it’s in the dough?

Kayuapi is located on Jl. Kuwum off Jl Raya Semer, Krobokan.Ph: 7877476.

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1. The rustic texture is a result of the slow process2. The wood-fired oven is kept at a constant temperature 24 hours a day3. Coffee wood for firing the oven

above: wood–fired bread at Kayu Apibelow: Ollivier with his philodendrons

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Distributed in Indonesia bySukanda Djaya (0361 - 751655)For more information see their website: www.aaco.com.au

With pristine farms that cover almost 7 million hectares or approximately 1% of Australia’s land mass and populated with more than half a million head of cattle, AAco is today the world’s largest beef producer and Australia’s biggest Wagyu producer.

AAco is a major player in the Asian market with its multi-award winning 1824 Premium Beef and Wagyu brands – Master Kobe, Kobe Cuisine and Darling Downs Wagyu.

AAco’s Sales and Marketing Manager, Alastair Ronald, explained that the key to the company’s success is consistency and attention to detail.

“Consistent supply and quality is the backbone of our company brands. To achieve this it is essential that each link in the supply chain follows

exacting procedures set out for their specific roll in delivering the final product to processing and end users.

The consistently high quality of AAco’s beef can be partially attributed to genetics (40%) but the remaining 60% that affects final outcome is attributed to nutrition and herd management. The key areas are breeding, growing out on pasture, grain finishing and processing.

Every animal that comes through the supply chain system must pass stringent specifications at every check point to be eligible for the branded beef program. This is true for both the 1824 Premium Beef and Wagyu brands,” he explains.

AAco is one of Australia’s original producers of Wagyu beef with three highly sought after brands based on

marbling and genetics. Master Kobe, described as the very best beef money can buy is in high demand from leading chefs around the world. It is produced from full blood and pure bred Wagyu cattle and has a marble score of 9 or greater.

Kobe Cuisine and Darling Downs Wagyu are produced from full blood Wagyu bulls crossed with beef cows to produce a flavoursome and uniquely Australian product, ranging from marble score 4 and up.

All cattle from AAco’s branded beef program are identified with radio frequency tags soon after birth, which allows for whole of life traceability. DNA samples are collected to allow progeny testing and peace of mind for end users. Any piece of meat packed as 1824 or wagyu brands can be verified using DNA, which allows efficient traceability back to the animal’s property of origin.

Free from hormone growth promotants and antibiotics, AAco’s wagyu spend approximately 365 days at AAco’s world class Aronui Feedlot, eating almost 4,500 kg (10,000 lbs) of a specially formulated grain ration before leaving at a weight of approximately 720 kg (1,600 lbs).

Aronui feedlot is recognized as Australia’s leading Wagyu Feedlot, currently feeding 17,500 head of full blood and cross bred Wagyu.

Apart from the sheer size of its beef production and land holdings, AAco also brings a wealth of experience to the Australian beef industry, leading the way in environmental management as well as being a member of “The Greenhouse Gas Challenge”. AAco stake its reputation on the flavour, tenderness and consistency of its beef brands.

They say that everything is bigger in Texas. Well after discovering the vastness of the holdings owned and managed by Australian Agricultural Company Ltd (AAco), that myth can be pretty well buried.

What’sYour Beef ?

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Jalan Mertasari No. 21, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Bali - Indonesia

p. 62361 720718 f. 62361 722674 e. [email protected]

www.kevalaceramics.com

Kevala Ceramics Manufacture and Wholesale

For detail contact: Wendy [email protected]

Custom Made Stoneware Ceramics

PT SOURCING BALI Jl. Gunung Salak 31a, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia. Tel +62 361 780 3981 +62 361 744 8025/35 Fax +62 361 430 683 [email protected] www.sb-he.com

Apply the finishing touch to your hotel, villa or restaurant with exciting new products from Hospitality Essentials. Visit our Kerobokan showroom to view more than a thousand sample items or pick up a copy of our 2009 catalogue for the complete solution to your interior and exterior needs.

The RATIONALBehind A Great Restaurant

Jonny Schwass opened the doors of Restaurant Schwass in October 2007. After twenty years as a chef, travelling the world, he finally felt ready to return home and open his own restaurant. In a very short span of time it has become of of New Zealand’s most successful restaurants. Recognised widely by the New Zealand press and finalist for Cuisine Magazine’s Restaurant of the Year in both 2008 and 2009 as well as the winner of South Island Restaurant of the Year at last year’s Salon Culinaire, Restaurant Schwass has made a big impact in a short time.

With a small kitchen and a small team, Jonny Schwass prepares 90% of his menu with a RATIONAL SelfCooking Centre®, which allows him incredible flexibility with his menu and which, he claims, has made him a better chef.

Taste interviewed Jonny about his restaurant and his experience with RATIONAL.

Q: How many years did you work as a chef before the opportunity to own your own restaurant came up?A: I have been cooking for twenty years and only in the past two have I been confident enough in my own

personal style to open my eponymous restaurant.

Q: What was your approach to this very personal venture?A: The restaurant is called Restaurant Schwass because it is a very personal one, I write the menus, design the wine list and have final say over all matters regarding the restaurant, I am very lucky that I have a talented and loyal staff that allow me the creative freedom to change the menus often. I am constantly inspired by ingredients and the availability of great produce gives us the ability to develop the menu on a daily basis

Q: How did you plan your kitchen?A: It is a small restaurant that seats 38 downstairs and has a private dining room for 16 upstairs. The kitchen is designed for three chefs to be able to produce great food in limited space. The only reason we can do what we do in the space we have is because of the RATIONAL SelfCooking Centre®.

Q: Why did you choose RATIONAL?A: It is the best unit on the market, no question. I couldn’t imagine running my restaurant without one. We produce nearly 90% of our entire

menu with one piece of equipment, The RATIONAL SelfCooking Centre® 101.

Q: What are your favourite functions?A: Overnight roast for pork shoulders, steam for anglaise, sous vide and low temperature cooking, the ability to set to half power for long slow cooking, ability to prove and bake bread 5 minutes before guests arrive, the ability to move quickly between cooking programs during a busy service and the self cleaning functions.

Q: What has proved the greatest benefit of cooking with RATIONAL technology?A: We have not wasted anything through overcooking in the past year, custard bases, breads, brulees, trays of duck confit, 6 pork shoulders roasted overnight. When you understand the basics of the RATIONAL you become a better chef and produce better tasting food, and that’s what keeps our guests coming back.

Millie ChanSales DirectorInternational Partner Business(Asia Pacific)Singapore Mobile: + 65 9770 9820E: [email protected]: www.rational-international.com

20 TASTE|November-December2009

Page 12: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

Sea Coral

Hospitality EssentialsCustomised Design from

design update

CollectionAs nature continues to inspire Jengggala, we have recently ventured into her realm of color effects and depth with the new Sea Coral Collection. Bright and colorful is not the theme, but rather a glossy rich brown mixed and flowing with the many shades of sand. Considering Jenggala’s close proximity to the famous beaches of Bali we didn’t have to travel far to study the color effects of sea coral. As the glaze

is applied by hand and left to nature’s forces in our kilns, this collection allows each piece to mirror nature as the glaze effect

draws the glossy earthy brown glaze to flow and melt into the golden varied sandy glaze. This mixture creates an

added form on to the ceramic shape as well as new hues of color as the glazes mix and fuse together. With an emphasis on the decorative, each piece of the Sea Coral Collection is completely unique, one of a kind, handmade piece.

Established in 1976, Jenggala has a special research and development team whose work is formulating glazes and

body as well as application techniques. There are over 200 glazes in Jenggala, and more than 30 years of experience in glaze application techniques. Jenggala proudly launched the Coral Sea collection.

The design team at Hospitality Essentials have worked together with some of our leading hotels, restaurants and villa owners to design and adapt individual ideas to create unique and practical accessories suitable for commercial use.

A wide range of clients regularly approach the company with ideas/materials and it is then left to the talented design team to merge these into practical and suitable accessories for use in hotels.

“The process starts with an idea and often this will start from a material already in use on the premises or an existing motif within the hotel. Other times it is about incorporating natural elements that reflect the design or the environment,” explains Tali Philips at Hospitality Essentials.

The design stage begins with a consultation and is then drawn up by the designers and samples of various elements of the design are presented. The range can be as large or small as the client needs it to be.

Hospitality Essentials is now working with clients from across the region including Dubai and The Maldives to create customised designs that are exclusive and practical.

In addition to the customized designs, the company also works with local designers and producers to add to compliment their own collection designed to. A visit to the showroom in Gunung Salak, Krobokan is a chance to meet the designers and gather ideas from their range which includes everything from rugs to ceramics, service essentials and display items.

Hospitality EssentialsJalan Gunung Salak 31AKerobokan, Bali - Indonesia.T: +62 361 744 8025/35F: +62 361 430 683C: +62 81337 872 575www.sb-he.comDistinctive Accessories for the hotel industry

23November-December2009|TASTE

Page 13: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

ByDr.Marco“RUCOLA”deLeonardis

NewsfromDoctorRocket’sOrganicFarm

Raw NatureSage is native to countries

surrounding the Mediterranean Sea and has been consumed in these regions for thousands of years, especially because it has impressive therapeutic properties. The scientific name for Sage, Salvia officinalis, is derived from the Latin salvere, to be saved, in reference to its curative properties. The Romans used to say: Cur moriatur homo cui Salvia crescit in horto? ‘Why should a man die whilst sage grows in his garden?’

Sage was in so much demand in China during the 17th century, appreciated for the delicious tea beverage that it makes, that the Chinese are said to have traded three cases of tea leaves (camellia sinensis) to the Dutch for one case of sage leaves.

According to medical herbalists, Purple Sage, is the preferred medicinal variety.

Its power in boosting natural estrogen production make it particularly beneficial for the night sweats and hot flushes of menopause and generally helps the body to adjust to hormonal changes. In the form of an infusion (15 gr of leaves in 250 ml of boiling water), thanks to the volatile oil thujone, sage has an antiseptic and antibiotic action and is very effective for the cure of all affections of the mouth: to relieve sore throats and, as a gargle, to encourage the healing process, especially for mouth ulcers and sore or bleeding gums.

As a tea (to make it more palatable, infuse 15 gr of fresh sage leaves in a liter of boiling water for half an hour, add 30 gr of sugar and the juice of 1 lemon and then strain), sage has been administered, taken internally, to

both calm and stimulate the nervous system. Research published in the June 2003 issue of Pharmacological Biochemical Behavior confirms what herbalists have long known: sage, due to the cholinesterase it contains, is an outstanding memory enhancer. In a trial of 42 patients, sage extract was compared to placebo in patients with mild to moderate Alzheimer’s, and found that the cognitive function of those taking the sage was significantly better at three months. For culinary use sage, being highly aromatic, is best used fresh, when its flavor can be described as a mix of rosemary, pine and mint. Because of its strong flavor, it can overwhelm, so should be used sparingly. Unlike the more delicate herbs, it can be added at the beginning of cooking and pairs nicely with other strongly flavored herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, savory, and oregano as well as the lemon herbs. As I was mentioning at the beginning sage is a must in the preparation of poultry stuffings, most notably the big bird,

the turkey. However, in European and Mediterranean cuisines, it has many more uses. Burro e salvia is a method of frying sage leaves in a mixture of olive oil and butter, until they are crispy, invented by the Romans, and still used in Italian cuisine as a condiment gnocchi and pumpkin ravioli. It blends well with mild cheeses. Try a little sage on a grilled cheese sandwich made with fontina cheese and dark bread. Marinate goat cheese with olive oil, peppercorns, garlic, and some small sage leaves. Or add one-quarter cup minced sage leaves to an 8-ounce package of cream cheese and let sit for at least an hour before spreading on bagel chips. It is the herb of choice in the preparation of liver pate, mitigating its rich flavour, thus giving the dish a subtle sublime finish. Try covering a pork roast with sage leaves before roasting; or gently separate with your hands the skin from the breast meat of a chicken or turkey, rub a little butter on the meat, then place a small

sprig or two of sage under the skin on each breast, pat down the skin, then roast. Sage leaves can be washed and patted dry, dipped into a batter made with egg yolks, flour and a little bit of milk, and then fried in olive oil until they get crispy and golden, like Japanese Tempura. Sage honey (about one-third cup minced leaves warmed with three-quarters cup mild honey) is a wonderful addition to tea or biscuits. Sage cider vinegar makes great marinades. The flowers

Saltimbocca Alla RomanaINGREDIENTS• 4 thinly sliced veal cutlets (can use chicken or pork, as well) • 4 slices thinly sliced prosciutto ham (Parma ham) • 8 fresh sage leaves, plus more for garnish All-purpose flour, for

dredging • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2 tablespoons dry white wine • 1/4 cup chicken broth • Lemon wedges, for serving

DIRECTIONSPut the veal cutlets side by side on a sheet of plastic wrap. Lay

a piece of prosciutto on top of each piece of veal and cover with another piece of plastic. Gently flatten the cutlets with a rolling pin or meat mallet, until the pieces are about 1/4-inch thick and the prosciutto has adhered to the veal. Remove the plastic wrap and lay a couple of sage leaves in the center of each cutlet. Weave a toothpick in and out of the veal to secure the prosciutto and sage. Put some flour in a shallow platter and season with a fair amount of salt and pepper; mix with a fork to combine.

Dredge the veal in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess. Heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter and in a large skillet over medium flame. Put the veal in the pan, prosciutto-side down first. Cook for 3 minutes to crisp it up and then flip the veal over and sauté the other side for 2 minutes, until golden. Transfer the saltimbocca to a serving platter, remove the toothpicks, and keep warm.

Add the wine to the pan, stirring to bring up all the delicious flavor in the bottom; let the wine cook down for a minute to burn off some of the alcohol. Add the chicken broth and remaining tablespoon of butter, swirl the pan around. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the saltimbocca, garnish with sage leaves and lemon wedges; serve immediately.

TURKEY STUFFINGINGREDIENTS• 2 sticks butter • 4 onions (2 pounds), cut into 1/4-inch dice • 16 celery stalks, cut into 1/4-inch dice

• 10 large fresh sage leaves, chopped• 2 teaspoons salt• 4 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper• 2 loaves stale white bread (about 36 slices), crust on, cut into 1-inch

cubes• 2 bunches fresh flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten• 2 cups chicken broth or stock, cooled • 4 cups homemade turkey giblet stock (use chicken stock if Turkey

Giblet stock not available)

DIRECTIONS Make turkey giblet stock Melt butter in a large skillet. Add onions and celery and cook over medium heat until onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add sage, salt, and pepper. Stir to combine, and cook 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1/2 cup chicken broth and stir well. Cook for about 5 minutes, reducing to half. Transfer onion mixture to a large mixing bowl. Add bread cubes, parsley, and eggs. Pour remaining stock and broth over mixture. Mix to combine. Bake stuffing in a buttered pan at 375F until brown. Drizzle with turkey drippings using a turkey baster during the cooking.

CRANBERRY SAGE SAUCE (makes 2 1/4 cups)INGREDIENTS• 1 cup (200 g) sugar• 1 cup (250 mL) water• 4 cups (1 12-oz package) fresh or frozen cranberries tops of 9 stalks

of fresh sage,• orange peel

DIRECTIONSWash and pick over cranberries. In a saucepan bring to a boil water

and sugar, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add cranberries and sage, return to a boil. Reduce heat, simmer for 10 minutes or until cranberries burst. At this point add a few strips of orange peel.

Remove from heat. Cool completely at room temperature, remove sage stalks and then chill in refrigerator.

Cranberry Sage sauce will thicken as it cools.

As Thanksgiving is very close by and Christmas is not far away, it’s time to start thinking of what is going inside the bird. This is why in this issue I am going to write about the herb Sage, whose most common use today is as flavoring for meat and poultry stuffings.

of culinary sage are edible, as well as beautiful, and have a more delicate flavor than the leaves.

At Raw Nature we have 5 varieties of Sage: Garden Sage (Salvia officinalis), Purple Sage (Salvia officinalis “Purpurea”), Tricolor Sage (Salvia officinalis “Tricolor”), Golden Sage (Salvia officinalis “Aurea”) and Mammoth Sage (Salvia officinalis “Berggarten”), as well as the Sage Edible Flowers.

Garden Sage is the most common

variety and the most widely used. Purple sage as mentioned before is the preferred one by herbalists for medicinal use. Mammoth Sage is ideal for the Japanese tempura, as the leaves are bigger and thicker than the Garden Sage. Golden and Tricolor Sage make striking garnish for their “painted” appearance. Sage Edible Flowers are really pretty as well as delicious and give a striking finish when sprinkled on the pasta dishes served with burro e salvia sauce or of crostini with liver pate.

Tricoloured Sage

Golden Sage

Purple Sage

Sage Flowers

24 TASTE|November-December2009

Page 14: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

By Katrina Valkenburg

winetails

I’m going to start this article with a confession: I’m a wine snob. It all began when I was lucky (or unlucky) enough to meet and fall in love with a wine journalist some 25 years ago. He taught me about all things vinous and from that moment to this day, I have drunk my way around the wine world, speaking both literally and metaphorically.

Before moving to Bali, I was used to receiving upward of ten wine samples each week. Some were, of course, outstanding examples of their ilk, others were more run-of-the-mill and it is these I’m going to discuss in high-wine-priced Bali.

Although I would suggest that there are few rotten wines put into

bottles, there are a number that I’d pass up on if it weren’t for the fact that there’s often not much choice.

What to do with a pretty ordinary wine if you’re used to drinking well (beyond one’s means in my case) – and I’m not talking about wine that is oxidised by being left out of the fridge for days on end?

The answer may lie in the new trend for winetails – cocktails made using wine as the base. This word, coined by the makers of Yellow Tail in Australia, has taken a hold in the cocktail crazed United States and will no doubt become a well-used term globally within nano-seconds.

The Spanish have long been turning simple wines into something

far more palatable, Sangria, as have many other European nations who began making mulled wine as an answer to storage and quality problems.

Yellow Tail is the largest imported brand into the United States (approximately 10 million bottles annually) and its reach is globally humungous due in part to its fruity appeal to the virgin palate and its value for money.

Yellow Tail employed the services of a mixologist named Trudy Thomas, beverage director for the Camelback Inn in Scottsdale, Arizona who began developing cocktails using the company’s wines. She then put together a little book comprising 40-

STORMY WEATHER 1 servingIngredients:• Ice• 11/2ouncesdarkoragedrum• 1 1/2 ounces shiraz or cabernet

shiraz blend• 1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lime

juice• 1/4ouncetequila• 1dashAngosturabitters(optional)• GingerbeerDirections:Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with ice. Add the rum, shiraz or cabernet shiraz blend, lime juice, tequila and bitters, if desired. Shake well, then strain into an ice-filled highball glass. Top off with ginger beer.

AUTUMN PEAR1 servingIngredients:• Ice• 1 1/2 ounces riesling, such as

Yellow Tail• 1ouncepearbrandyorpeareaude

vie• 1/4ounceamaretto• 1/2ounce freshly squeezed lemon

juice• 1teaspoonsimplesyrup• 1pearslice,forgarnishDirections:Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with ice.Add the riesling, pear brandy or pear eau de vie, amaretto, lemon juice and simple syrup. Shake well, then strain into a chilled cocktail (martini) glass. Garnish with the pear slice.

Katrina Valkenburg is a wine educatorconsultant & writer.Email: [email protected]

tasting notes Leyda Neblina Single VineyardRiesling 2008This extremely well made Chilean Riesling is a real surprise with fresh and tangy fruit flavours balanced by a gentle sweetness and firm acidity. With so few Rieslings available currently, this wine should be a must on all good wine lists.

Viña Von Siebenthal CarabantesSyrah 2006Deep red in colour with aromas of all the red berries, liquorice, white pepper and mint, this hearty red wine will stand up to the meatiest of dishes. Named after the Spanish priest who first brought vines to Chile, it is

predominantly Syrah (Shiraz) with a hint of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to round out the palate.

Tabali Cabernet SauvignonReserve 2005Very deep ruby red in colour and showing all the classic aromas, this Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is a real find. Ripe fruit with hints of eucalypt, mint and blackberries it has good body and length and a velvety smooth mouthfeel. Again, best matched with rich red meat dishes.contact: Anom [email protected] Indowine 0361 8477232

plus cocktail recipes that Yellow Tail recently emailed to me.

We just had to try them. Unfortunately, Yellow Tail wines and a couple of the more exotic liquors weren’t available for our experiments so we substituted them with a couple of well-priced wines courtesy of IndoWines and had fabulous barmen Gopha at Nutmegs whiz them up.

The results were mixed, perhaps in part because we had to substitute a couple of ingredients but of the five we tried, three were excellent, including the two above. This exercise woke me up to the endless possibilities of wine-based cocktails. Even if you have only the rudimentary ingredients of a cocktail bar, with a little imagination you’ll be whizzing up impressive winetails to titillate your taste buds in no time.

26 TASTE|November-December2009 27November-December2009|TASTE

Page 15: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

Local InspirationsBali has too many restaurants to even count, and that’s not including the ones which come and go before anyone has even really noticed. But now that western imported products are getting harder to find and more expensive to ‘source’, maybe we should all think about the good local alternatives to western food.

Fifteen years ago, consumers were somewhat mystified by the launch of a Balinese wine company, fifteen years later the wisdom of such a venture has been dignified by

unrivalled support and international recognition.

In Sleepy Sanur (which is actually not snoring that much anymore) try LA PAU on the By Pass….not too far from Natrabu where it started its life in the parking lot on Fridays and Saturdays from 10 pm ON. Now located in its own leafy garden, LA PAU specializes in home cooked food from Minangkabau or West Sumatra. Metrus, (who claims his name is from menderita terus or suffer constantly?), learned to cook from his mom, one of the long term cooks at another Padang restaurant. Metrus serves a selection of traditional Padang dishes and of course has rendang and sambal hijau but lots of other things as well. New items are vegetarian Rendang Nangka (breadfruit) and Buntut Asem Pedes (hot and sour oxtail). Monday nights there is (usually!) great music from the Tropical Transit band who have been entertaining expats for years and Fridays features a blues band. Lots of beer on music nights!! Closed on Sundays. Mon-Sat 10 am-11 pm.

Over in Renon, to sample quintessential Sundanese food, try Ikan Bakar Cianjur. It is an assault on the senses with some of the worst acoustics in town, but also some of the best fish. They have a large selection of deep fried or grilled fish, several really nice veggie greens including something like ferns and a fabulous tahu in a sauce that is truly scrumptious. That’s the good bit. The bad bit is the noise and the fact that there is not a non smoking area. So,

go early and sit where you can’t see any smokers. Service is fast and prices are very reasonable.

In downtown Denpasar, there is a hideaway restaurant next to the old Samudra called AYAM RICA RICA and they also have a branch on the road from Iman Bonjol that goes to Kerobokan. There is a selection of great hot pots, the food that finishes cooking at your table… beef, seafood, veggie only with lots of chili and kangkung. Their soups are nice and the sambal mangga to die for. And of course, ayam rica rica from Menado and lots of choice in grilled fish.

Service is generally ok unless you go in when it’s full, and then its better to choose another night. Prices very reasonable.

On the Hero side of that street near Ayam Rica Rica is MIE BANDUNG, one of the small kiosk places lining

that road. This place has really tasty Mie Ayam with no extra seasoning necessary. They also have a vegetarian MIE HIJAU which is nice. Noodles and tea for 2 comes to about Rp. 40,000. Of course you have to be up for street side eating, but some of us look forward to a meal at a place like this….a nice Sunday lunch place.

Checking out the local cafes is a culinary adventure that provides inspiration and an introduction local ingredients you may not know of, but which can add new elements to many of the Western dishes we cook.

Looking to the local food on street level can be illuminating and in our increasingly global community influences are crossing more than the street, they are crossing oceans.

Clever cooks and fascinated foodies are discovering there is more to Indonesian cusisine than nasi goreng.

Hatten WinesHatten WinesBali’s OwnBali’s Own

café couture

Hatten was born of a small family-run company producing Brem, the local rice wine. The Owner/Director of Hatten, I B Rai, an agricultural engineer, had the idea of harvesting grapes, in the north/east area of Bali.

The 14.5 hectare vineyard has been successfully farmed ever since and the company buys grapes from other local farmers in the area, turning this into a thriving area for grape production.

The hiring of award winning wine maker Don Buchanan, formerly associated with prestigious Australian labels such as Lindeman, Krondorf, Arrowfield, and former Australian Winemaker of The Year, has been a significant shift for the wine company.

“When I came in they asked me to completely overhaul the winery but not to change the wine at all, they were happy with it,” Don explains, “so of course, I changed everything,” he laughs.

The fruit is what determines the wine and there are slight variations with each crop. Don’s greatest contribution to the wine itself has been to fine-tune the balance.

“In the tropics growing grapes and creating wine is quite specialised. We have to put the vines to sleep after

we harvest otherwise there will be no down time and they need it to recover. So here we artificially create the ideal conditions,” says Don who has made enormous changes to the winery since he has arrived.

Physically the way the wine is stored, fermented, filtered and bottled has been the greatest area of innovation. Hatten’s winery now boasts some of the most up to date equipment in the world and the company is planning further innovations including an increasingly ‘green’ future.

“The wine we create is in a new category known as Tropical World wine. It is a newly recognised style of winemaking and our Alexandria wine has won several international awards in this category. Despite our small size we are now recognised as one of the world leaders in this category, which includes places like Vietnam

and Argentina,” explains Don.He is committed to the quality and

varieties of wine produced by Hatten and claims that their biggest seller, Hatten Rose, is perfectly suited to Bali. “It is light and refreshing with a relatively low alcohol content. Perfect for sipping with grilled fish while watching the sun set over the beach in Jimbaran.”

He believes that the sparkling will be their fastest growing wine as this is a world trend and he believes both the Tunjung and the Jepun sparkling are excellent value and good wines in themselves.

Value has been the greatest advantage Hatten has had in the past, however with the company’s new look labels they are heading into the future with the assurance that Hatten can also deliver a quality wine and the customers are responding with a resounding yes!

THE CELLARDOORKomplex Dewa Ruci #3 Jl. By-pass Ngurah Rai, (Simpang Siur), Kuta, BaliTel: 0361-767-422 Fax: [email protected]

I.B. Rai with the original oak barrels used for wine production

28 TASTE|November-December2009 29November-December2009|TASTE

Page 16: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

1. Another day at the office2. & 3. Rock bar bites

Exotic cocktailson the rocks

ROCKSon theROCKSon the When it came to creating the

menu for the resort’s spectacularly located Rock bar, Marc stepped up to the bar and created a drinks list to, ‘match the moments of the sunset’ which is a huge drawcard for the cliff-face bar.

With his own Michelin star, an illustrious career and his years in Cannes creating some of the world’s most extravagant parties, this is a man who knows how to turn up the volume.

“When I first arrived here in April 2009 the owner told me they

would open a new bar on the cliff to open in July. I thought, that can’t be true! In May and June I still did not believe it and then one day, it was there,” he laughs.

The stunning new Rock Bar was designed by Yasuhiro Koichi of Japan’s Design Studio SPIN, whose works include NOBU Tokyo and NOBU Hong Kong, a virtual cliff hanger with extensive glass bars and hideaway terraces. The sophisticated bar menu has also been tailored for the venue with bites that sing of the location.

Fast becoming one of the must see places to visit, DJ and live performances are regularly featured and New Year’s Eve is expected to be a huge night at the Resort.

“My idea for the cocktails was to play on the classics, the location and the sunset, the most spectacular time to be here. I bought in the martini club menu for a little sophistication and created a range of cocktails that are fresh and fruity,” he says of the large size cocktails that sit in fishbowls to great effect.

So this creative F&B Director together with his staff, who he describes as among the best he has met in his extensive career, refined the Rock Bar concept which has proved a winning addition to Ayana Resort.

Dava’s wine dinner on Nov 6 introduces new chef William.

Another rocktail anyone?

2

3

1

He may have hung up his chef ’s jacket but Ayana Resort’s Food and Beverage Director Marc Dobell is still a cook at heart.

31November-December2009|TASTE

Page 17: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

chef’s xmas global chefs

In one of the most triumphant moments in Bali’s culinary history, two of Bali’s chefs astounded the Asian community by taking the crown for Asia’s Global Chef.

The win lines them up to compete against the world’s best in the internationally renowned Global Chef competition in Santiago, Chile in January 2010.

Balinese chef Mr I Wayan Wicaya and apprentice Alexander Tanuhardja, both of Bulgari Bali Resort, took the honours earlier this year at the World Association of Chefs Society (WACS) Global Chef Asia competition held in Hong Kong earlier this year.

“This win is very prestigious for Indonesia,” explains BCP President Made Putra.

Preparing for Chile will involve many hours of practice once the key ingredients are announced. The event will be held in conjunction with the WACS World Congress, an event that brings together the top industry professionals and press from around the world.

A number of foreign-based chefs have been asked to contribute their

expertise to the team for the upcoming challenge and will travel to Bali in the coming months. Those who have been asked are ranked as high-level competition judges who have achieved culinary accolades including WACS Asia Director, John Sloane of Resort World, Singapore.

Currently BCP is finalising its sponsors as the challenge is a costly one to stage and the team relies on corporate sponsorship. Throughout Indonesia many companies have expressed interest in supporting the high-profile event, which will bring international attention to Indonesia and to Bali.

“Our chefs have a great chance of winning this event and the more support we can gather for them, the greater their chances are. The competition is one of the most prestigious international events in the

culinary industry and will require discipline, practice and culinary skill,” explains Andrew Skinner.

Preparation for the event is vital to ensure that the team is confident in their bid. It is an intense level of competition with the eyes of the world on the chefs who have come to compete in this highest level of international competition.

Chef I Wayan Wicaya is Executive Sous Chef at Bulgari Bali Resort with many years of experience behind him. He is a talented and creative chef who has

been in the industry for over twenty years explains Andrew Skinner.

His commie, Alexander Tanuhardja is the first student to receive a sponsorship from BCP as part of the Young Chefs program. Since his graduation he has secured employment at Bulgari Bali Resort and is currently president of the Young Chefs Club in Bali.

For media and sponsorship enquiries contact Natalie atc.o. Travel Works Communications InternationalJl. Kesari no. 60ATel 0361.284095, Fax 0361.270189E-mail : [email protected]

Global Chef Asia CrownBali Wins

Taste asked some of our leading chefs and contributors what they would like for Christmas. While there were a few surprises, most of them wanted something extra in their kitchens. For our part, the staff at Taste would like some time off, to get ready to bring you a bigger, better magazine in 2010. We hope all your wishes come true!

Chris Salans (Mozaic): Professionally for Christmas I wish Santa would send me a blast freezer/chiller. They are very difficult to get and cost a fortune. But if I had one I could also do miracles with it!

Personally I wouldn’t mind a set of synthetic wicker furniture to put on my porch and around our pool. It would allow me to invite more people over to our house!!!

Christian Hinckley (Amandari):Thanks for the note. Tough questions. Here is what I want.1. Personally I would love to receive 1 pack of sour patch kids (American candy), 1 bottle of Red Hook IPA (American beer) and dinner and lodgings at Michel Bras in Laguiole, France.

2. Professionally I am hoping for a thermo immersion circulator. To better help with sous vide cooking.

Penny Williams (Alila Manggis):Christmas, Christmas Christmas....I wish that Farther Christmas would drop down my kitchen exhaust a handsome, muscle rippling thinly clad gentleman, that can whip up all my favorite dishes, keep the fridge stocked with veuve Cliequot and desires to obey my every command.

Professionally I would love a set of Japanese knives. Very sexy!

Andrew Skinner (Bulgari):This Christmas I would like an envelope “with a little bit like a get out of jail for free card - but a get out of work card including 1 week full

board, sleep in pass and unlimited relaxing on a Balinese sandy beach with my 2 girls and wife. For people who have never played Monopoly I am sorry I cannot help if you don’t get it !!. Professionally I want 2 new shiny Paco Jet machines............ these little babies are the ultimate in delivering the lightest, silkiest and smoothest ice creams and sorbets ever!!!

Philip Mimbimi (Huu):A. For myself, I’d like some new plants in my garden at home (and time to plant them?)B. At work I’m dreaming of a wood fired grill with ample amounts of mesquite, and apple wood!

Raul Deschu (Padma):Profesionally I’m after a supplier that has anything on stock at any time, and lower import taxes!!Personally, this will come as no surprise to many chefs, I’d like more time with my family. Happy Cooking!

Katrina Valkenburg our wine writer, isn’t asking for too much, “easy - a RoboJet!”

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32 TASTE|November-December2009

Page 18: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

Fresh at Flying Fish

One of the increasing numbers of local chefs who have moved into the top position, Executive Chef Wayan Wenten pulled out a string of fresh flourishes to entertain the BCP members and guests at the September lunch. A dazzling number of seafood appetizers were passed around while guests enjoyed the beachfront location. Cigarette sized shrimp spring rolls, oyster shooters, a dazzling arrangement of freshly made sushi was just the start. Dragged away from the glamorous deck guests were then served with Tasmanian salmon dressed with fresh Asian flavours followed by a generous portion of the impressive local wagyu fillet served with tempura prawns. Happy endings are made of Flying Fish’ signature dessert of warm Bedugul strawberries in a syrupy vinegar sauce with toffee ice-cream and a crisp shard of honeycomb. Way to go Wayan!Venue: O-CE-N at Outrigger, Double Six beach, Legian.

Best of Britishat PadmaDespite language difficulties (mainly the accents) John Taylor and his newly appointed Executive Sous Chef, Raul Deschu, overcame cultural differences to showcase what is fast becoming a hot culinary trend, retro British food. John and his talented offsider (aka sausage roll) showcased their stylish whims with an extended ploughman’s lunch buffet that included tiny pork pies with quail eggs that had everyone filling up their bags with bungkus. EntrÈe involved a ravishingly rich oxtail soup with a puff pastry top, followed by slow roasted pork with all the trad trimmings. With the guests feeling pretty porky themselves by now, dessert was no less than golden syrup steamed pudding. Try walking home after that! Venue: Padma Hotel, Jl. Padma, legian.

Wendy (Kevala) & Phillip (Hu’u)

Warm Bedugul Strawberries

Markus(The Westin)

Slow Roasted Pork Loin

Ray (Samaya) & guest

Boys at lunch

Yannic (Mannekepis) & Enrico (Oberoi)

Chris andLeony (Holiday Inn)

Wayan Sudiana (The Bali Khama),Hidayat (Megah Food Trading), and ICA guys

Adrianto (BGI), Markus (Legian Beach),Bevan (BGI), Markus (The Westin)

Oyster

Tasmanian Salmon

Ayu and Elly (Unilever)

Girls at lunch

John and Raul (host chefs from Padma) Golden syrup sponge pudding Assorted sushiHans (Taman Safari), Made Lugra (The Samaya), Wayan Wenten (the host chef)

Claire (Villa Coco), guest, andPenny (Alila Manggis)

Page 19: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

BCP Membership 2009

Arry Afianto Alam bogaDavid Smith Alam bogaHendra Noviar Amier Alam bogaVynna Indra Alam bogaPenelope Williams Alila Hotel ManggisChristian Hinckley AmandariOlaf Aistleitner Arena Sport CaféAdrianto Mulia Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PTHaryanto Mulia Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PTNi Wayan Santo Asih Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PTDienly Wong Asri Indonesia, PTSimon Yap Asri Indonesia, PTWinyoto Asri Indonesia, PTAlexander Erich Aston KutaAttila Koermoeczi Ayodya resortAdrianto Bahana Gourmet IndonesiaPramudya Bevan Bahana Gourmet IndonesiaDaud L Pakpahan Bali Bird ParkKetut Sukamara Bali Golf and Country ClubEndris Yuliawati Balivillas.comIsabella Lin Balivillas.comPeter Rieger Balivillas.comAgus Wiryawan Banyan TreeTorsten Schubert Banyan Tree MaldivesSugihanto Sachid Bapak BakeryMouelhi Issam Best Western PremierFranky Alexander Buana Agung LestariI Wayan Budiarsa Buana Agung Lestari Nyoman Sudiarna Buana Agung Lestari Andrew Skinner BulgariHeinz Von Holzen Bumbu BaliDennis Langlois CarrefourBayu Lagimin Classic Fine FoodsDhany Parwanto Classic Fine FoodsI Gde Rastarama Classic Fine FoodsKib Roby Dharma TeasAA Rai Gunawan Discovery Kartika PlazaI Nyoman Candra Discovery Kartika PlazaI Nyoman Wirata Discovery Kartika PlazaIwan hari Cahyo Discovery Kartika PlazaMade Sebastian Suanda Discovery Kartika PlazaNi Made Suwartini Discovery Kartika PlazaJohan Meyers DP KitchenTerry Deweer DP KitchenEko Putranto EcolabErnst Jaeck Grand Hyatt BaliSaptono Grand Hyatt BaliWayan Widiana Grand Hyatt BaliSang Ketut Jiwa Griya Santrian HotelHugo Declerck HerBaliAnik Purwati Hocatsu Bali, PTIda Ayu Sutamaya Hocatsu Bali, PTMahesa Dentha Hocatsu Bali, PTLeony Rossalia Hartono Holiday InnJason Vito Suwantika Hu’u BaliPhilip Parfait Ekoto Mimbimi Hu’u BaliArie Sumartini Ikan Segar BaliBill Marinelli Ikan Segar BaliRositha Wardhani Ikan Segar BaliI Nyoman Parwata Indoguna BaliSarita Sanowi Indoguna BaliThierry Brocard Indoguna BaliWendy Jane Thomas Kevala CeramicsI Gusti Nyoman Jaya Kori RestaurantRalf Schmidt Kori RestaurantMarkus Reichl Legian Beach HotelBruno Militia Live ShellAyu Suharyani Lotus DistributionBill Busch Lotus Distribution

Henny Santoso Lotus DistributionJeff Matthews Mandara SpaYannic Van Meckeren Mannekepis BistroJayadi Masuya Graha Trikencana, PTHidayat Megah Food TradingKetut Sumatra Melia BenoaChristopher J Salans MozaicI Made Sudana Nikko Bali Resort & SpaJuergen Domani Nikko Bali Resort & SpaKatarina Sari Nikko Bali Resort & SpaStefan Mueller Nikko Bali Resort & SpaChristian Gerart Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & SpaDarren Lauder Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & SpaI Gusti Agung Alit Subawa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & SpaI Ketut Mudana Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & SpaNi Ayu Winarmi Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & SpaReto Victor Torriani Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & SpaWayan Wenten O-CE-N Outrigger Resort John Taylor Padma BaliKetut Pong Atmajaya Padma BaliRaul Deschu Padma BaliWayan Nurisa Padma BaliIan Roberts PamerindoKadek Widiantara papa’s CaféCarlos Vinas Barmona Pica TapasDewi Rusmala Pica TapasJimmy Julianto Pica TapasNeeta Malhotra Queens tandoorIng Gerold Eichinger Raja Bamboo, CVMade Budiasa Pendit Sanur Beach AerowisataSven Hollinger Satria Pangan SejatiDenny Rahman Shalira SpaJean Philippe Petit Shalira SpaNyoman Puja Siap BaliRick Bolt Smart EnergyEnny Kudung SoejaschMr Robert Jansen SoejaschTutik Yantini SoejaschI Made Manahara Sukanda Djaya, PTIzwantini Sukanda Djaya, PTRusli C.J. Lokman Sukanda Djaya, PTBrandon Huisman The BaleI Wayan Sudiana The Bali KhamaJacky Ames The Beach HouseNigel Ames The Beach HouseAprin Sukarno Putra The LagunaI Made Linggi The LagunaI Made Putra The LagunaIda Bagus Partama The LagunaNyoman Wijana The LagunaRidwan The LagunaDean Keddel The SamayaI Gede Juastra The SamayaI Made Lugra The SamayaI Wayan Sudarsana The SamayaMichael Shaheen The SamayaRay Clark The SamayaMarkus Krickelberg The WestinBudhi Setiawan Tedja Tirta Sakti MandiriNi Made Kariani Tirta Sakti MandiriShirkandi (lulu) Tirta Sakti MandiriRenaud Le Rasle Ubud Hanging GardensAyu Arsanti Unilever Food SolutionsElly Gultom Unilever Food SolutionsPuri Danandari Prodjo Unilever Food SolutionsClaire Quinn Villa Coco Made Witha Witha BakeryHelmut Walter Schafer

NAME COMPANYNAME COMPANY

Next BCP LunchVenue : The LegianAddress : Jl. Kayu Aya, SeminyakDay/date : Saturday, 28th November 2009Time : 12.30

Venue : Nikko Bali Resort & SpaAddress : Jl. Raya Nusa Dua SelatanDay/date : Saturday, 19th December 2009

BCP Christmas Party

young chefs

What’son theirmind?Ever wonder how our next culinary generation thinks ? Just take a peek at their views on some culinary matters.

Where do you think the hospitality industry in Indonesia is heading ?Indonesia has a rich culture, nature, and also signature food, that’s why Indonesia has to be “One of the Countries you must visit before you die”. - Alfan Musthafa -

What are the new trends in the world of food and how can Indonesia incorporate this ?I think healthy food will be the biggest trend. In Indonesia people always use fresh root herbs and spices and other fresh ingredients. So healthy food is already part of our culture. - Jatu Rizki Putra Anurantha -

You are seeing a rise in health issues. How do young chefs feel about this ?As a young chef, I am aware of health issues. The Indonesian Young Chefs Club is an active organization which considers these issues and the solutions. - Kris -

Page 20: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter

chefs day-out

No matter what age you are it is impossible to resist the attractions at Bali Safari Park, undoubtedly a big part of the attraction for groups who are choosing to entertain their staff and families at the Gianyar park.

Whether it is the animals, the rides, the shows or the restaurants, the 40 hectare landscaped park has more on offer than most people can enjoy in a single day.

This is the third park in the family run company, the other two are in Java. With decades of experience with caring for and breeding animals, the park has a huge variety of animals and carries a strong conservation message as well.

The main show at the park is set in a Sumatran village and highlights the relationship between villagers and the elephants as natural habitats are increasingly threatened. The animals

are wonderful performers and the people aren’t bad either. It’s an extravaganza more like you’d expect to see in a US theme park and the Bali Safari managers say it takes a long time to stage one of these shows and therefore change them once a year or so.

For corporate outings it is increasingly popular as the appeal of the park is so wide. In addition to the amazing collection of exotic animals that are housed in beautiful park-like surroundings and best viewed from the air-conditioned safari buses, there is also a fun park and a water park.

Food and Beverage is managed by ex-Hyatt Executive Chef, Mahadi who oversees a number of themed restaurants and food outlets throughout the park. These include the Tsavo Lion Restaurant where the lions are mere metres away behind

glass. Uma Restaurant is set up as a food court with private and public areas capable of catering to large numbers and small groups.

Professional management and devoted zoo keepers together with all the latest methods of keeping happy, healthy animals has resulted in a park that is world class and attracting numerous experts in zoo management who have all given the park the thumbs up.

This year some of BCP’s members will escort a group of children from a local orphanage as part of the International Chefs Day, an outing that promises to be as fulfilling and educational as it is fun.

Bali Safari Park is located on Jl By-Pass Prof Dr. Ida Bagus mantra, Gianyar. PH: 950000.

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38 TASTE|November-December2009

Page 21: Jakarta & Bali Culinary Professional Newsletter