ITAA PROCEEDINGS

Proceedings of the Annual Meeting

of the

International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc.

November 10-13, 1999

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Nancy J. Owens, editor

International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc.

PO Box 1360, Monument, CO 80132-1360

(719)488-3716

UB/TIB Hannover 89121260 380

CONTENTS

PRESIDENT'S ADDRESSDESIGNS FOR THE MILLENNIUM: THE FUTURE WITH A VUE 1

Margaret Rucker

DISTINGUISHED SCHOLAR LECTURETHE ANTHROPOLOGY OF DRESS 4

Joanne B. Eicher

PRENTICE-HALL DISTINGUISHED LECTUREMAKING CONNECTIONS ACROSS THE CULTURES OF RESEARCH, DESIGN, AND TEACHING IN AN ERA OFUNCERTAINTY 8

Mary Lynn Damhorst

SPECIAL TOPICS AND LONGER PRESENTATIONSBOOK PUBLISHING 11

Linda Welters, Kathryn Earle, Olga Kontzias, Joanne Eicher, Leslie Davis Burns, Annette LynchCREATING CULTURE: DRESS CODES AND UNIFORM POLICIES IN US PUBLIC SCHOOLS 1 5

Josephine Moreno, Sharron Lennon, Gwendolyn O'Neal, and Teresa McCarthyMAKING INTERDISCIPLINARY CONNECTIONS: ITAA MEMBERS SHARE COLLABORATIVE EXPERIENCESTHAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE 18

Kimberly A. MillerTEACHING FASHION DESIGN IN QATAR AND NEW ZEALAND—BICULTURAL AND CROSS-CULTURAL EXPERIENCES 19

Christina Lindholm, Karen M. Guthrie, Nancy M. Scott, Sue Thomas, Ross HemeraBROADENING OUR HORIZONS: PLANNING AND IMPLEMENTING SUCCESSFUL STUDY ABROAD PROGRAMS 22

Patricia Huddleston, Nancy Cassill, Ann Fairhurst, Kay Grise, and Mary LittrellNEGOTIATING TRANSITION BETWEEN CULTURES: GRADUATE STUDENT PEER NETWORKING FORPROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 24

Brecca R. Farr, Harriet McLeod, and Jennifer Paff OgleTEACHING THEORY DEVELOPMENT IN TEXTILES AND APPAREL 26

Billie J. Collier, Elaine M. Pedersen, Beth Wuest, and Rinn M. CloudINTERDISCIPLINARY REGIONAL RESEARCH: EXAMINATION OF THE FAMILY BUSINESS PROJECT 28

Sara U. Douglas, Nancy J. Miller, Pamela J. Brown, and Rita KeanDESIGN LAW IN EUROPE AND THE US 31

Virginia Brown KeyderTEXTILES FOR THE MILLENNIUM 34

Christine M. Ladische, Billie J. Collier, Karen K. Leonas, Gita N. Ramswamy, Yanqiu Ren, Sara Douglas,and Kitty Dickerson

INTERACTIVE CAREER FAIR 37Bonnie D. Belleau, Sally Helvenston, and Deborah Meyer

MAKING VIRTUAL CONNECTIONS: GRADUATE PROGRAM DELIVERY VIA THE WEB 3 8Lynn Brandon, Christy Crutsinger, Judith Forney, Jana Hawley, Youn-Kyung Kim,Tammy Kinley, and Dee Knight

DOING BUSINESS IN EUROPE 39Virginia Brown Keyder

CULTURAL DIVERSITY AND SUSTAINABILITY: IS THERE A CONNECTION? 43Sheila Chrhuhalek, Marilyn DeLong, Linda Welters, Naeda Robinson, and Louise Stiver

GLOBALEING'THE CURRICULUM: A UNIVERSITY EFFORT 44Kitty Dickferson, Betty Dillard, Pamela Norum, and Laurel Wilson

ABSTRACTS OF CONCURRENT SESSION PAPER PRESENTATIONS

COLORATION PROJECT IN ADVANCED TEXTILE SCIENCE 45Sara J. Kadolph

CLEANING THE TEXTILE CLOSET: STUDENT INVOLVEMENT 45Tammy Kinley and Jana Hawley

THE DEVELOPMENT AND USE OF VISUAL IMAGES AND INTERACTIVE ACTIVITIES ON THE WEB FOR TEACHINGBEGINNING TEXTILES 46

Lois Scheyer and Joan LaughlinA COMPUTER-BASED TUTORIAL DESIGNED TO ENHANCE STUDENT VISUALIZATION SKILLS 46

M. Jo Kallal, Tavia Sharp, and Belinda T. OrzadaCHINESE CONSUMERS' ATTITUDES TOWARD US-MADE CLOTHING 46

Dong Shen, Marsha A. Dickson, Sharron Lennon, Catherine P. Montalto, and Li ZhangCONSUMER BEHAVIOR IN RURAL SOUTH KOREAN COMMUNITIES 47

Yun-Jung Choi and Nancy J. Miller

1

UNIVERSITATSBIBUOTHEKHANNOVER

TECHNISCHEINFORMATIONSBIBLIOTHEK

ACQUISITION SOURCE USE IN MULTIPLE FASHION PRODUCT CATEGORIES: A COMPARISON OF ANGLO ANDHISPANIC CONSUMERS 47

Lynn Brandon and Judith C. ForneyEFFECT OF LIFESTYLE ON APPAREL CONSUMPTION OF CHINESE AND AMERICAN CONSUMERS 48

Yujun Zhao and Nancy CassillBODY IMAGE ISSUES: BEHAVIOR CHANGE AND STAGES OF CHANGE 48

Nancy A. Rudd, Sharon Seiling, and Bridgette SloanBODY IMAGE AS A FUNCTION OF SOCIAL COMPARISON AND SELF-SCHEMA 48

Jaehee Jung and Sharron J. LennonTHE MOTHER-DAUGHTER RELATIONSHIP AS MEDIATOR OF THE MEDIA'S THIN FEMALE IDEAL 49

Jennifer Paff Ogle and Mary Lynn DamhorstBODY IMAGE AND IDEALIZED IMAGES 49

Linda B. Arthur: DiscussantWORLD CLASS MERCHANDISING FOR A CONSUMER-CENTRIC ORGANIZATION 49

Fay Gibson and Dianna VassRELATIONSHIP MARKETING: IMPLICATIONS FOR FUTURE RESEARCH 50

Soojin Lee and Irena VidaEMBEDDED COMMUNITY RELATIONSHIPS AS A COMPETITIVE STRATEGY FOR RURAL RETAILERS 50

Barbara FrazierSTRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS IN THE TEXTILE AND APPAREL COMPLEX 50

Lorynn R. Divita and Nancy L. CassillCULTURAL PERSPECTIVES ON DRESS: A NOVEL APPROACH 51

Jane E. HeglandINTRODUCING MULTICULTURALISM AND DIVERSITY INTO THE FASHION CLASSROOM 51

Julie HilleryBUTTONS OF TRADITION: A JOURNEY THROUGH HISTORY 51

Cindy MartinTHE PROFESSIONAL MASTER'S CURRICULUM: ADDRESSING THE CHANGING NEEDS OF STUDENTS AND INDUSTRY52

Melody LeHew and Deborah J.C. Meyer, and Linda M. CushmanSHADOWING: A PROGRAM OF CAREER DISCOVERY AND DEVELOPMENT 52

Linda K. Good, Judy Osbun, Patricia Huddleston, and Jessica DavisUSING THE FASHION COUNT TO INTRODUCE CONSUMER BEHAVIOR, GROUP BEHAVIOR THEORY, AND RESEARCHTECHNIQUES TO UNDERGRADUATE STUDENTS 53

Wanda K. Cheek and Cynthia R. EasterlingRELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN PHYSICAL TEXTILE PROPERTIES AND PHYSIOLOGICAL AND SUBJECTIVE COMFORTMEASURES DURING HUMAN WEAR TRIALS OF CHEMICAL BIOLOGICAL GARMENT SYSTEMS 5 3

Catherine Andersson, Elizabeth M. Crown, and Julie F. Tremblay-LutterEFFECT OF GRAIN ALIGNMENT ON FABRIC PROPERTIES MEASURED WITH THE FAST SYSTEM 53

Belinda T. Orzada and Jocelyn HarryTEXTILE DYES FROM RENEWABLE RESOURCES 54

Sheila ChmuhalekEFFECTS OF INSTRUMENTAL WEATHERING ON THE COLOR OF NATURALLY COLORED COTTON 54

Janet Evenson and Helen H. EppsCUSTOMER SERVICES IN APPAREL RETAILING: PERCEPTIONS OF RETAILERS AND ELDERLY CONSUMERS 54

Beth WuestRETAIL STORE LIGHTING FOR ELDERLY CONSUMERS: AN EXPERIMENTAL APPROACH 55

Nam-Kyu Park and, Cheryl A. FarrCOORIENTATION EFFftCTS IN BODY IMAGE OF OLDER MARITAL DYADS 5 5

Keun Young Oh and Mary Lynn DamhorstSATISFACTION WITH TROUSERS DEVELOPED FROM THECANADA STANDARD SIZING SYSTEM AND THE ASTM D5586FOR WOMEN AGED 55 YEARS OR OLDER 5 5

Lorna Campbell and Lena HomePOS DEMAND & SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING RESPONSE 56

Carol G. CarrereGENERATIONAL DIFFERENCES IN EVALUATION OF SHOPPING MALLS 5 6

Yeonsook Kim, Youn-Kyung Kim, and Jikyeong KangGENDER AND INNOVATION IN THE SOUTH AFRICAN CLOTHING INDUSTRY 56

Diane Flaherty and B. Lynn SalingerTEACHING WITH "SEINFELD" CLIPS: THEIR USE, YADDA, YADDA, YADDA, STUDENT LEARNING 57

Leslie Davis Burns and Joanne CavinWHAT I WORE 57

Nancy A. OliverINCORPORATING CRITICAL MOMENTS INTO A COURSE: CLOTHING AND HUMAN BEHAVIOR 5 8

Diane Vigna and Reschell RayMASS CUSTOMIZATION—AN EXPERIMENT IN DESIGN AND PRODUCTION 5 8

Susan Ashdown

FIGURE SKATING APPAREL: DESIGN FOR FUNCTIONAL, EXPRESSIVE, AND AESTHETIC NEEDS 58Nancy Drennen

TEACHING COLOR THEORY THROUGH FIBER ARTS, QUILTING AND THE COMPUTER 59Vincent Quevedo

TRENDS AFFECTING THE INDUSTRY ASSIGNMENT 59Nancy Lyons

COMPUTER TECHNOLOGY ADOPTION BY SMALL APPAREL RETAILERS 59Bonnie Langreck and Nancy J. Miller

EFFECTS OF SUPERVISORS ON GOAL ORIENTATIONS AND SALES PERFORMANCE OF DEPARTMENT STORESALESPEOPLE 60

Kyungae Park, Soonim Heo, Soo-Youn Sakong, and Suim ShinA PRICE COMPARISON FOR IDENTICAL MERCHANDISE AT MANUFACTURERS' RETAIL APPAREL OUTLETS ANDTRADITIONAL RETAIL STORES 60

Deborah Fowler and Richard ClodfelterINDEPENDENT RETAILERS IN MASSACHUSETTS: CAN THEY MEET THE CHALLENGE? 60

Martha G. BakerDEFINING THE BOUNDARIES OF KIOSK RETAILING 61

Jennifer YurchisinCONSUMER ADOPTION OF THE INTERNET FOR APPAREL SHOPPING: THEORETICAL MODEL DEVELOPMENT 61

Eunah Yoh and Mary Lynn DamhorstTHE FEMINIST BODY AS ENGENDERED SPACE 62

Linda B. Arthur and Charlotte KunkelMASS MEDIA MANAGEMENT OF TRANSGENDERED IDENTITY 62

Annette Lynch and Jo RyanGENDER 62

Susan O. Michelman: DiscussantINVESTIGATION OF PATTERN GRADING ASSUMPTIONS MADE IN THE SIZING OF U.S. WOMEN'S CLOTHINGFOR THE UPPER TORSO, PART ONE 63

Nancy Schofield, Karen LaBat, and Gloria WilliamsHOW CURRENT SIZING SYSTEMS MISS THE MARK: A PILOT STUDY 63

Lashawnda McKinnon and Cynthia L. IstookSIZING AND FIT 63

Susan P. Ashdown: DiscussantAFRICAN AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS AND PERIODICALS: SOURCES FOR THE STUDY OF FASHION, 1890-1910 64

Patricia Hunt-Hurst"THE MOST FEMININE OF ALL PROBLEMS," BALANCING BUDGET, TIME AND STYLE IN CLOTHINGSELECTION: 1880-1920 64

Jean L. ParsonsUSING A CONDITIONAL MATRIX TO DEVELOP UNDERSTANDING OF APPEARANCE OF AFRICAN AMERICANWOMEN IN FEMALE SLAVE NARRATIVES 64

Eulanda A. Sanders and Joan LaughlinTHE AFRICAN ROOTS OF THE AFRICAN AMERICAN AESTHETIC OF DRESS 65

Gwendolyn S. O'NealTRADE PATTERNS DM MAN-MADE FIBERS: AN APPLICATION OF THE EXTENDED TECHNOLOGY GAP MODEL 65

Yang Jin JeonANALYSIS OF U.S. APPAREL IMPORTS 66

Yidi Xiao and Kathleen ReesAPPAREL RETAIL FIRMS' SOURCING GOVERNANCE CHOICE: SHARED VS. INTEGRATED MODE 66

Jinsook QhoCHANGES IN CHINA'S TARIFF POLICY: OPPORTUNITY FOR U.S. EXPORTS? 66

Li Zhang and Marsha DicksonTEENAGERS'SHOPPING MOTIVATIONS AND LONELINESS 67

Youn-Kyung Kim, Shefali Kumar, and Jikyeong KangKIDS AND APPAREL PURCHASING: TOWARD AN UNDERSTANDING OF HOW KIDS BUY APPAREL 67

Deborah J. C. Meyer and Heather C. AndersonTHE SERVICE ZONE OF TOLERANCE: A TEEN PERSPECTIVE 67

Dee Knight, Christy Crutsinger, and Tessa BirdineVISUAL LITERACY PROGRAM: AN INTERDISCIPLINARY APPROACH TO TEACHING THE BASIC ELEMENTS ANDPRINCIPLES OF DESIGN 68

Vincent QuevedoCOMBINING INNOVATIVE TEACHING, FIELD EXPERIENCE, PUBLIC SERVICE, AND RECRUITMENT:CREATING A MUSEUM EXHIBIT AS A COLLABORATPVE EFFORT BETWEEN VISUAL MERCHANDISINGAND HISTORIC COSTUME COURSES 68

Phyllis Bell Miller and Wanda CheekMAKING THE CONNECTION: HISTORIC COSTUME AND MERCHANDISING 68

Diana Cone

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INTERNATIONAL ENTREPRENEURSHIP: AN INTERDISCIPLINARY PERSPECTIVE 69Mary A. Littrell, LuAnn Gaskill, Virginia Blackburn, Howard VanAuken, Michael Whiteford, and Norma Wolff

KNOWLEDGE, ATTITUDES AND BEHAVIOR OF PARENTS OF PRE-SCHOOL CHILDREN ABOUT SUN PROTECTION 69Catherine Black, Jeanne Heitmeyer, Kay Grise, and Christine Readdick

CONSUMERS'USAGE GOALS AND PERCEPTIONS OF QUALITY 70Nancy J. Insalaco Ford and Robert H. Stobart

CONSUMER MOTIVATIONS FOR PURCHASING APPAREL FROM SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE BUSINESSES 70Marsha A. Dickson

PERCEIVED SHOPPING VALUE BY ETHNICITY AND GENDER 71Seunghae Han, Youn-Kyung Kim, and Jikyeong Kang

HUMAN RIGHTS ISSUES AND AFGHAN WOMEN'S APPEARANCE: THE CONFLATION OF GENDER,ETHNICITY, AND RELIGION 71

M. Catherine DalyTHE USED-CLOTHING MARKET IN MALAWI 71

Maxine James JohnsBUSINESS ETIQUETTE IN GERMANY AND AUSTRIA AS PERCEIVED BY AMERICAN TOURISTS 72

Tana StufflebeanX-RAY DIFFRACTOMETRIC STUDY OF THE EFFECTS OF LAUNDERING ON THE MICROCRYSTALLrTE SEE OFNATURALLY COLORED COTTON 72

Hsiou-Lien ChenAPPLYING THE TAGUCHI METHOD TO ENHANCE SOIL AND STAIN REMOVAL 72

Young-Ah Kwon, Sara J. Kadolph, and Sherry Schofield-TomschinEFFECTS OF FABRIC SOFTENER AND MOISTURE ON FABRIC HANDLE 73

Chen-Chen Wang, B. Lewis Slaten, and Jai -Ok KimA COMPARISON OF THE EFFECT OF REPEATED LAUNDERINGS AND DETERGENT USE ON PERFORMANCE OFENVIRONMENTALLY IMPROVED AND CLASSIC DENIM FABRICS 73

Amy Fox and Mary Ann MooreDESIGN COLLABORATION BETWEEN INDUSTRY AND ACADEMIA AND CAMPUS TO CAMPUS 73

Susan AshdownCOLLABORATION: A KEY TO EFFECTIVE LEARNING 74

Diana Cone and Diane PhillipsINDUSTRY PARTNERSHIP FOR ENHANCED LEARNING OPPORTUNITIES: A JUNIOR LOUNGEWEAR LINE DEVELOPEDBY FASHION STUDENTS 74

Phyllis Borcherding and Hanna HallA COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF SHOPPING ORIENTATION BETWEEN ETHNICALLY DIVERSE CONSUMERS 75

Heewon Sung and Brigitte BurgessA CROSS-CULTURAL COMPARISON OF BODY MAGE AND CLOTHING SELECTION BEHAVIOR AMONG KOREANAND AMERICAN WOMEN 75

Seung-Hee Lee and Yoonja NamTHE INFLUENCE OF LIKING TO SHOP ON HISPANIC AND ANGLO CONSUMERS' RETAIL PATRONAGE 75

Judith C. FomeyU.S. AND JAPANESE FEMALE UNIVERSITY STUDENTS' ATTITUDES TOWARD SCHOOL UNIFORMS 76

Catherine A. Cerny, Hiroko Takabu, Joann F. Boles, Takako Hayashi, and Mieko InomataNEGOTIATING ACROSS CULTURES: CONSUMER ACCEPTANCE OFHAND-PRODUCED APPAREL PRODUCTS 76

Nancy J. Miller, Mary A. Littrell, and Jeanne LinkBUYING CULTURE: INTERNATIONAL TOURISTS IN GUATEMALA 76

Josephine MorenoTOURIST CHARACTEilSTICS, TEXTILE SOUVENIRS, AND PURCHASE INTENTIONS OF BUYING FOR SELFVERSUS OTHERS 1 77

Soyoung Kim and Mary A. LittrellTOURIST CONSUMER PURCHASING BEHAVIOR: THE NEXT PHASE 77

Rita C. Kean: DiscussantTRACING THE HISTORY OF THE APPAREL & TEXTILES DISCIPLINE 1840-1940 77

Sally I HelvenstonPARIS FASHION IN 1775: REFOCUSING THE LENS OF FASHION HISTORY 78

Rachel K. PannabeckerDESKS, DRAWERS AND DILEMMAS: THE HIDDEN MEANINGS BEHIND SCHIAPARELLI'S DESK SUIT 78

Robyn Gibson-QuickTHE NEW YORK DRESS INSTITUTE: A COLLABORATION BETWEEN UNIONS AND MANUFACTURERS 78

Sandra Stansbery BucklandFINDINGS OF USING A METHODOLOGY FOR DESCRIBING THE MORPHOLOGY OF THE HUMAN FOOT FORFOOTWEAR APPLICATIONS 79

Susan L. SokolowskiPROTOTYPE DEVELOPMENT AND DESIGN PROCESS FOR A FULL BODY PROTECTION MILITARY UNIFORM 79

Claudia Deaton and Cindy Istook

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A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF HEAT STRESS ASSOCIATED WITH SELECTIVE TURNOUT GEAR ENSEMBLES 80Diane Morton and Donna H. Branson

THE DESIGN OF A THERAPY GARMENT FOR PRESCHOOL CHILDREN WITH SENSORY INTEGRATION DYSFUNCTION80Sherry J. Haar and Joann F. Boles

THE ELECTRONIC PORTFOLIO 80Kathryn Koch

IDENTIFYING AND UNDERSTANDING CULTURAL INFLUENCES IN BUSINESS COMMUNICATION:CROSS-CULTURAL E-MAIL COMMUNICATION PROJECT 81

Brecca R. Farr and Mary A. LittrellSHARED LEARNING VIA ELECTRONIC CONFERENCING AND EMAIL 81

Brigitte Burgess and Linda McGoldrickINDUSTRY-BASED COMPETENCIES FOR ENTRY-LEVEL RETAIL MANAGEMENT POSITIONS:A NATIONAL DELPHI STUDY 81

Kerri M. Keech and Shelley S. HarpMATCHING WORKPLACE NEEDS AND EDUCATION: THE GARMENT INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION 82

Suzanne LokerTHE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN STUDENT LEARNING STYLE AND TEST PERFORMANCE 82

Runying ChenAPPAREL SPATIAL VISUALIZATION TEST AND PAPER FOLDING TEST 83

Jane E. WorkmanRETAIL BUYERS AND CONSUMERS: PURCHASE DECISION BEHAVIOR FOR AND SATISFACTION WITH APPAREL 83

Molly Eckman, Marianne Bickle, and Antigone KotsiopulosTHE INFLUENCE OF THE KOREAN LIFESTYLE ON THE PURCHASE PROCESS OF JEANS 83

Heesun SeoEFFECTS OF PRODUCT MAGE ON CONSUMER'S PURCHASE AND CONSUMPTION PROCESSES 84

H. Jessie Chen-Yu and Doris H. KincadeUNIVERSAL AND BRA CONSUMERS'EVALUATIVE CRITERIA 84

Traci May-Plumlee and Trevor J. LittlePERCEIVED TRAIT ATTRIBUTES IN RELATION TO APPEARANCE COMMUNICATION 84

K. Denise ThrelfallFASHION OPINION LEADERSHIP AND APPEARANCE MANAGEMENT BEHAVIOR 85

Ji Hye Park, Eun Hee Cho, and Nancy A. RuddPSYCHOLOGICAL ISSUES CONCERNING BODY SCANNING 85

Cynthia L. Istook and Lashawnda McKinnonSYNECTICS: A CREATIVITY EXERCISE 86

Stephanie ClemonsCREATIVE USE OF INSPIRATION SOURCES FOR DESIGN DEVELOPMENT 86

Janace ClarkeADVANCING DESIGN CREATIVITY THROUGH THE DRAPING PROCESS 86

Jean L. ParsonsEXPLORING DIFFERENCES BETWEEN INTERNET APPAREL PURCHASERS, BROWSERS, AND NON-PURCHASERS 87

MiYoung Lee and Kim K. P. JohnsonFROM A LABOR INTENSIVE TO AN INFORMATION INTENSIVE BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT 87

Beatrice Le Pechoux and Cynthia L. IstookA CLASSIFICATION OF THE DRESS OF HEAVY METAL MUSIC GROUPS 87

Tammy R. Robinson, Doris H. Kincade, and Valerie L. GiddingsTHE MEANING OF AUTHENTICITY IN THE DRESS OF CIVIL WAR REENACTORS 8 8

Mitchell D. StraussVIRTUAL FIELDWORK: RESEARCHING DRESS AND IDENTITY IN THE ITALIAN HIP HOP SUBCULTUREON THE INTERNET. | 8 8

Susan J. Torntore and Suzanne Szostak-PierceAUSTRALIAN SWIM AND SURFWEAR: THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CULTURAL IDENTITY ANDLIFESTYLE APPAREL NICHE DEVELOPMENT 88

Laurene VaughanCAPABILITIES OF AND IDENTIFICATION OF RESEARCH NEEDS IN AMERICAN APPAREL MANUFACTURING FIRMS . 8 9

Jacquelene RobeckAPPAREL MANUFACTURING OPERATION MANAGEMENT ANALYSIS 89

Shu-Hwa Lin, Doris Kincade, and Mary Ann MooreELECTRONIC ORDER FORM FOR SPECIAL MEASUREMENT MILITARY UNIFORMS: A TEST CASEFOR MASS CUSTOMIZATION 89

Nancy J. StaplesFABRIC UTILEATION AND RECYCLING PRACTICES IN SEWN PRODUCTS MANUFACTURING 90

Maureen Grasso and Dianna VassINTRODUCTORY UNDERGRADUATE RESEARCH EXPERIENCE 90

Sue H. WhitakerSEMINAR IN CUSTOMER SERVICE: FROM THEORY TO PRACTICE 90

Christy A. Crutsinger

HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS' FASHION WORKSHOP: AN INNOVATIVE PROGRAM FOR RECRUITMENT 91Shu-Hwa Lin

COLLABORATIVE DESIGNER INSPIRATION PROJECT UTILEING THE APPLICATION OF INFORMATION ANDPRINCIPALS FROM HISTORICAL COSTUME, FASHION DESIGN, AND MARKETING COURSEWORK 91

Janace Clarke and Roxanne PrecopiaSANCTIONS FOR DRESS CODE VIOLATIONS IN SECONDARY SCHOOLS 92

Elizabeth W. Freeburg, Jane E. Workman, and Elizabeth S. LentzPERSPECTIVES ON SCHOOL UNIFORMS 92

Yunhee Kim, Marilyn DeLong, and Karen LaBatA CASE STUDY OF STUDENTS' SELF-ESTEEM AND SCHOOL UNIFORM OPINIONS IN AN URBAN MIDDLE SCHOOL .... 9 2

Teresa M. McCarthy and Josephine MorenoSCOTTISH DRESS EM THE CONSTRUCTION OF ETHNIC IDENTITY ..93

Tara C. Crane, Jean A. Hamilton, and Laurel E. WilsonEXAMINATION OF SELF-CONGRUITY AND STATUS CONSUMPTION FOR TAIWANESE CONSUMERSPURCHASING BLUE JEANS 93

Jeanne Heitmeyer and Hsin-I YuTEEN MAGAZINES' INFLUENCE ON THE SOCIALEATION AND IDENTITY OF AFRICAN-AMERICAN GIRLS 93

Devona L. Dixon and Marianne C. BickleTATTOOING: A VEHICLE FOR SELF-EXPRESSION 94

Lisa A. Luzier and KimberlyA. MillerAPPAREL ENTREPRENEURS MARKETING ON THE WEB 94

Tywanda Moss and Evelyn L. BrannonCOMPULSIVE CONSUMPTION TENDENCIES AMONG TELEVISION SHOPPERS 95

Seung-Hee Lee, Sharron J. Lennon, and Nancy A. RuddTHE EFFECTS OF PERCEIVED AMOUNT OF INFORMATION ON PERCEIVED RISKS AND PURCHASEINTENTIONS IN TELEVISION SHOPPING 95

Sharon Lennon and Mijeong KimPROFILING CONSUMER INTEREST IN MASS CUSTOMEATION 95

Melissa Biedron and Lenda Jo Anderson-Connell

ABSTRACTS OF POSTER SESSION PRESENTATIONS

EMPLOYED WOMEN'S INTENTIONS TO PURCHASE APPAREL SEWING SERVICES: BELIEFS, ATTITUDES, ANDNORMATIVE INFLUENCES 96

Karen Bruck Watson and Marjorie NortonCONSUMERS' STORE PATRONAGE MIX BY FASHION PRODUCT TYPE AND COMPETITIVE STRUCTUREANALYSIS AMONG FASHION STORES BY PATRONAGE MIX BEHAVIOR 96

Hyun-Sook Chung and Eun-Young RheeTHE MPACT OF LIFE EVENTS ON PERCEIVED STRESS, CLOTHING SPECIFIC LIFESTYLE AND RETAIL PATRONAGE:THE RECENT MFEVENT IN KOREA 96

Soyeon Shim and Pilgyo ChoTHE IMPORTANCE OF "MADE-IN" PRODUCT LABELING IN CONSUMER SHOPPING BEHAVIOR 97

Irena Vida and Ann FairhurstCONSUMERS' USE OF CARE LABELS AND THEIR UNDERSTANDING OF THE INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS 97

Mary E. Swinker, Jean D. Hines, and Joan C. SchmittGIFT-GIVING BEHAVIOR OF GRANDMOTHERS 97

Tammy Kinley and Linda SivilsTHE INFLUENCE OF QUSTOMER'S MODE OF DRESS ON THE QUALITY OF CUSTOMER SERVICE RECEIVEDIN A RETAIL BUSINESS 98

Peggy Rolling, tyichael Burnett, and Debbie JohnsonBRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN PERIOD COSTUME AND CONTEMPORARY APPAREL 98

Nora M. MacDonald and Linda D. MilianTARGETING APPAREL DESIGN PORTFOLIOS TO CAREER DIRECTION 99

Nora M. MacDonaldLINE DEVELOPMENT: A JOINT MERCHANDISING AND DESIGN PROJECT 99

Nancy J. Rabolt, L. Susan Stark, and Connie UlacewiczA STUDY/ANALYSIS OF THREE BRIDAL SHOPS 99

Pamela B. StoessellCREATING COORDINATED PRINTED TEXTILE DESIGNS FOR INFANTS AND GIRLS 100

Pamela B. StoessellUSING RECYCLED MATERIALS TO DEVELOP ALTERNATIVE APPAREL STRUCTURES 100

Elizabeth ByeDESIGNING WITH BOTH SIDES OF THE BRAIN 101

Melanie CarricoPROPORTION IN DAY AND EVENING WEAR: 1945 TO 1995 101

Diana Saiki and Carole Makela

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COMPREHENSIVE PRESENTATION OF SKILLS FOR FASHION ILLUSTRATION 101Vincent Quevedo

AN AESTHETICS COURSE TO SERVE STUDENTS ACROSS THE UNIVERSITY 102Ann Marie Fiore

DEVELOPING PHOTOREALISTIC VISUAL STMULI FOR TEXTILES AND CLOTHING RESEARCH 102Ann Marie Fiore and David Halstead

COSTUME CLASS RESOURCES: VINTAGE CLOTHING STORES AND VIRTUAL COLLECTIONS 103Michelle B. Kunz

INCREASING STUDENT GLOBAL AWARENESS IN A CONSUMER BEHAVIOR COURSE 103Hilda Buckner Lakner

A VISUAL AND ANALYTICAL APPROACH TO THE COSTUME JOURNAL 103Shirley A. Lazorchak

THE EFFECTS OF PSYCHOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND PEER ACCEPTANCE ON KOREAN ADOLESCENTS'CLOTHING BEHAVIOR 104

Heechang Kim and Aeran KohTHE EFFECTS OF PSYCHOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND CLOTHING ATTITUDES ON FASHIONADOPTION OF KOREAN FEMALE ADOLESCENTS 104

Aeran Koh, Sukyung Lee, and Jeongeun ShimBUSINESS DRESS, AN ASPECT OF CHANGE IN CORPORATE CULTURE 104

Ann C. Slocum and Christopher J. LagoeUNDERSTANDING KOREANS'MATERIALISM AND CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION 105

Sun-Hyung Choi and Hyunjoo OhEXAMINING "LIVED" SERVICE EXPERIENCES TO UNDERSTAND CONSUMER SATISFACTION 105

Lorraine FriendTECH PREP AGREEMENTS: BUILDING COOPERATIVE VENTURES IN FASHION MERCHANDISING 106

Beth WuestITAA COMPETENCIES: CURRICULUM PLANNING FOR ACCREDITATION 106

Catherine BoydA COLLABORATIVE VISUAL MERCHANDISING PROJECT: MERCHANDISING, INTERIOR DESIGN AND INDUSTRY. .106

Kerri M. Keech and Ronald C. MowatA STUDY ON THE DISTRIBUTION INTENSITY FOR THE CASUAL WEAR INDUSTRY 107

Hyun-ju JungRETAILERS'PERCEPTIONS OF STORE ACCESSIBILITY 107

Aida Shahin, Marianne C. Bickle, and Kenneth R. Tremblay, Jr.APPLICATION OF ASSORTMENT SPREADSHEETS IN DEVELOPING A STORE LAYOUT AND DESIGN PROJECT 107

Nancy J. Miller, LuAnn Gaskill, and Betsy ChewMASS CUSTOMIZATION: A MULTMEDIA TUTORIAL 108

Suzanne LokerTEACHING MASS PRODUCTION OF SOFT GOODS THROUGH CLIENT-BASED ASSIGNMENTS:PERSPECTIVES OF THE PROFESSOR, CLIENTS, AND STUDENTS 108

Eulanda A. Sanders and Antigone KotsiopulosFEMALE APPAREL MANUFACTURERS: INTERVIEW ANALYSIS BY NUD*IST 108

Jane S. Craig and Patricia E. HorridgeEFFECT OF NITROGEN GAS AND OXYGEN SCAVENGERS ON DYED TEXTILES 109

Judy Brott Buss, Patricia C. Crews, and Stephen KachmanCHARACTERIZATION OF TEXTILE PROPERTIES OF AMERICAN ALLIGATOR LEATHER 109

Terri Von Hoven, Bonnie D. Belleau, and Teresa A. SummersEVALUATION OF CLOTHING QUALITY: THE EFFECT OF KNOWLEDGE 109

Jean D. Hines and Mary E. SwinkerANALYSIS OH PREFERRED FIBER COMPOSITIONS FOUND ACROSS THE MARKET SEGMENTS OF THE APPARELINDUSTRY IN KOREA 110

Chanju Kim and Cheunsoon Ann SongA STUDY ON SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE CLOTHING ACQUISITION BEHAVIOR RESPONSE TO INTRINSIC AND EXTRINSICINCENTIVES TOWARD RECYCLING OF CLOTHING 110

Geung Hae Chang and Jae Ok ParkFREQUENCY OF RECYCLING: A BASIS FOR INCLUDING TEXTILES INCURBSIDE RECYCLING PROGRAMS 110

Tanya Domina and Kathryn KochCONSUMER PREFERENCES FOR ALLIGATOR, OSTRICH, AND EMU LEATHER APPAREL PRODUCTS I l l

Bonnie D. Belleau, Kelly Nowlin, and Teresa SummersCONSUMER ATTITUDES TOWARDS MPORTED APPAREL: A DESCRIPTIVE STUDY USING IN-PERSON SURVEY I l l

Kate Carroll, Susan Burr, Becky Ruth, and Doris H. KincadeAPPAREL CUSTOMER SERVICE: DIFFERENCES BETWEEN CONSUMER AND SALES PERSON PERCEPTIONS 112

Scarlett C. Wesley and Ann FairhurstPATRONAGE BEHAVIOR OF INFANT WEAR SHOPPERS AT A LOW-PRICED DEPARTMENT STORE INSOUTH AFRICA: A CASE STUDY 112

Annette Van Aardt and M van der Westhuizen

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AN EVALUATION FORM ENCOURAGING DESIGN STUDENTS TO PURSUE CHALLENGING PROJECTS 112Paula B. Sampson

COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN: APPLICATION TO TEXTILES 113Rose Marie Tondl

USING A FASHION SHOW PRODUCTION TO CHALLENGE STUDENTS TO ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS:THECASEOF"ECO-ECLECTIKA" 113

Jana M. HawleyCONCEPTS IN DIGITAL TEXTILE PRINTING THAT AFFECT THE TEXTILE DESIGN APPROACH 113

J.R. Campbell and Eundeok KimCLOTHING THAT WORKS IN THE CLASSROOM: PROFESSIONAL ATTIRE FOR FEMALE COLLEGE TEACHINGASSISTANTS 114

Hsiang-I Tang and Lynne RichardsA BALLISTIC LIFE VEST: A FUNCTIONAL DESIGN WITH SHARK PROTECTION 114

Jane FunderburkEMBROIDERY DESIGN IN INDIA-WEST AFRICA TRADE TEXTILE TRADITION 114

Hazel A. LutzEXPERT ADVISORS FOR AN INTEGRATED MAJOR 115

Sara Kadolph, Ruth Glock, Nancy Miller, and Grace KunzCOMPONENTS OF A CAPSTONE EXPERIENCE 115

Robyne Williams and Kathy EnglerSTUDENT AND FACULTY LEARNING THROUGH INFORMATION INTERVIEWS 116

Deborah D. YoungSTUDENT PERCEPTIONS OF A CAREER IN RETAILING 116

LuAnn Gaskill and Yun-Jung ChoiAN EXPLORATION OF COLLEGE STUDENTS' ATTITUDES TOWARD THE INTERNET 116

Aimee D. Prawitz, Julie Hillery, and Deanna KaraskiewiczMULTIPLE INTELLIGENCES (MI) IN THE CLASSROOM 117

Stephanie demonsTHEORY ON-LINE 117

Elizabeth M. Crown and Lorna E. HardingMOVIE COSTUME REVIEW: A CRITICAL ANALYSIS OF HISTORIC COSTUMING 117

Sarah CosbeyINCORPORATING A MULTICULTURAL PERSPECTIVE IN WESTERN COSTUME HISTORY 118

Sarah CosbeyUSING THE CONCEPT OF CULTURE SCALE IN TEACHING CULTURAL ASPECTS OF DRESS 118

Sandra Lee Evenson, Joanne B. Eicher and Hazel A. LutzAPPAREL MODELS FOR MENTALLY CHALLENGED PERSONS ENTERING THE WORiCFORCE 118

Tana StufflebeanINFLUENCE OF FABRIC AND ENVIRONMENT ON PERCEIVED SENSATIONS OF EXERCISING SUBJECTS 119

Sharon J. W. Mord and Donna H. BransonHOUSEHOLD TEXTILES, EMPLOYER PROVIDED HOUSING AND JOB SATISFACTION 119

Cheryl A. FarrVISUAL MERCHANDISING PORTFOLIO 119

Mary Claire KettlerCAPSTONE EXPERIENCE COURSE: STRATEGIC ANALYSIS OF THE TEXTILE, APPAREL & RETAIL INDUSTRIES 120

Pam NorumCREATING A RETAIL VENTURE: A BUSINESS PLANNING APPROACH 120

Patti Warrington ]EXPLORING COST AS KN ESSENTIAL COMPONENT IN TEACHING RESEARCH DESIGN: MPLICATIONSFOR EXTERNAL FUNDfNG 121

Seulhee Yoo, Shelley S. Harp, Denise Bean, and JoAnn L. ShroyerSEARCHING FOR INTERNSHIPS AND CAREER POSITIONS ELECTRONICALLY 121

Deborah D. YoungSOUTH KOREA'S MARKET LIBERALEATION AND ITS RETAIL INDUSTRY 121

Eun Jin Hwang and Marjorie J. T. NortonMPACT OF LEAD-TME AND ERROR IN ESTMATION OF DEMAND ON APPAREL RETAILING: UTILEATIONOF ARM SOFTWARE PROGRAM 122

Yuri Lee and Doris H. KincadeINTERIOR DESIGNER KNOWLEDGE AND OPINIONS OF ALLIGATOR LEATHER PRODUCTS 122

Teresa A. Summers, Bonnie D. Belleau, and Paulette R. Hebert"THE CHARM PET SHOP": THE BEST OF TWO WORLDS 122

Ann E. Fairhurst and Theresa McCarthyUNDERSTANDING, VALUING, AND MANAGING DIVERSITY: A PRACTICAL APPROACH TO THEORGANEATION OF LEARNING GROUPS IN THE MERCHANDISING CURRICULUM 123

Shelley S. Harp, Kathryn J. Payne, and Randall R. RussINTEGRATING APPAREL DESIGN/ CONSTRUCTION AND COMMUNITY SERVICE 123

L. Susan Stark and Joycelan Falsken

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DEVELOPING MEDIA FOR SKILL DEVELOPMENT AND TRAINING 123Sandra Tullio-Pow

TROOPER UNIFORM WEAR TEST: EVALUATION OF COMFORT AND WEAR 124Kay Caddel, Patricia Horridge, and James Simonton

COMPARISON OF BODY TYPE THROUGH AN ANTHROPOMETRIC STUDY OF YOUNG KOREAN WOMEN 124Mee-Sung Choi

DYEING WITH FERMENTED MATERIALS 124Sara J. Kadolph

RESPONSE OF KENAF/COTTON BLEND YARNS TO MERCEREATION 125Catherine Boyd and Bambang Soeharto

DESIGN COMPETITION

DELICACY 125Renee Weiss Chase

TI-ED 125Shu-Hwa Lin

PERSMMON SCENT IN PATCH 126Kyung A. Jung, HeeYong Jung, and Haekyung Yu

SUBTLE MIX & TRACE 126Kyung A. Jung, HeeYong Jung, and Haekyung Yu

WINTERSCAPE 126Marian O'Rourke-Kaplan

DIOR REVISITED 127Sally Holman-Herbert

THESONGOFOWL 127KyeongSook Cho

AMETHYST 127Jeeyoung Huh

DRAGONESSE 128Nicole Ko

EASTMEETSWEST 128Hong-Youn Kim

DECONSTRUCTION 128Ji-Hyeon Kang

KOREAN TRADITIONAL CERAMIC—"CHUNGJA" 128Eundeok Kim

KOREA 1 129Nicole Ko

ALAFRANCOISE 129Jared Connors and Amy Shoemaker

EVENING BLOOM 129Birtukan Abebe

TEMPTATION OF MERMAID 129Jungwha Cho and Chanju Kim

AUDREY 130Jared Connors and Amy Shoemaker

ROXANNE....1 130Jared Cortnors and Amy Shoemaker

BLUE BACCARA 131Heather Huffaker

CANARY CONCHAL 131Heather Huffaker

TRADITION AND PLAIT AND LAYERS 131Sun-Woo Kim

LADY IN RED 132Darcy Law

HOMAGE TO VIONNET 132Amy Jane Lee

ROCK-A-BYE: THE TWIST 132Kathaleen Hornberger and Carrie Lundell

THEBOUNDLILY 133Ana Goncalves and Janice McCoart

RECITAL 133Barbara Tuck and Kathy Mullet

AFRICAN GLORY 133Sanet Roos

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SENSORY COSTUME: THERAPEUTIC APPAREL FOR CHILDREN WITH SENSORY INTEGRATION DYSFUNCTION 133Sherry J. Haar and Joann F. Boles

FUSHION SKIRT/PANT 134Elizabeth Chesney, Becky Farmer, Bok Joo Glass, Susan Gurler, Stacey Kadrmas, and Julie Koessl

SAKURA: BRIDAL KIMONO AND MASK 134Jeanne Downing

SOUL OF A MANIKIN 135Joanne Ferguson Boles, Sherry Schofield-Tomschin, and Jennifer L. Clevenger

CHOCTAW HERITAGE 135Carol Bormann

JUMBLE 135Nancy O. Bryant

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR 136J. R. Campbell

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR: THE FIRST YEAR 136J.R. Campbell

OGLIGLE WAKAN TUWA KAHAHA (LITTLE ANGEL WHO CURLS UP LIKE A FLAME) 137J. R. Campbell

THE MARINER'S COMPASS 137Linda Carlson and Eulanda Sanders

KOREA "DURUMAGI" ENCOUNTERS A BUTTERFLY 138Mee-Sung Choi

AFRICAN THREAD CONNECTIONS 138Sherry J. Haar

MODERN COUNTESS 138Jungwha Cho and Chanju Kim

BEGIN THE HOURS OF THIS DAY SLOW 139Jan Kimmons

TONGUE TED 139Marcy L. Koontz

SOUTHERN LIVING: COUNTRY ROADS CAPE 140Belinda T. Orzada

SCRAMBLED EGGS AND SOUP 140Elaine L. Pedersen

ARCHAIC NECK POUCH 140Barbara Trout

FIBER STEMWARE 141Barbara Trout

TRIBA L CONN ECTIONS 141Janith S. Wright

CHINESE STYLE ENSEMBLE 141Carrie Felter

PORTRAIT IN BROCADE 142Michael J. Harlan

MARRON 142Ji-Hyeon Kang

TRANSPARENCY ., 142Chiung Yao Tseng'

CULTURE CLASH 142Mahalia Admana '

CULTURAL ENCOUNTER 143Mahalia Admana

THE SILVER BULLET 143Jamilyn Smith and Arlene Handschuch

MOONLIGHT GARDEN 143Arlene Handschuch

BEADED ELEGANCE VII 143Catherine Black

DEER AUTUMN 144Betsy Henderson

AUTUMN RIPPLES 144Maria Johnson and Diane Sparks

RECYCLING FUR FOR THE MILLENNIUM 144Sandra Keiser

CASCADING IRISES 145Rosetta S. LaFleur

rTMELY & TAILORED 145

Marian O'Rourke-KaplanPOMPADOUR REVISITED 146

Belinda T. OrzadaAURORA BOREALIS 146

Eulanda A. SandersTHE MEETING OF EAST AND WEST II 146

Eundeok KimECLIPSE 147

Ann BeebeSILVER MOON STRIATIONS 147

Eulanda A. SandersBRIDAL VEIL FALLS 148

Carolyn SchactlerCELEBRATION IN COPPER 148

Diane Sparks and Maria JohnsonMUDMEE 148

Bernadette Tatarka and Nancy O. BryantPOCKET ROOM 149

Michelle BiocourtRUBY VISION 149

Molly Taylor-BurgherLAVITALOCA 149

P.J. Carleton, Debra Cifreo, and Melanie SmithFELICITY 150

January Hart, Shoan Lodge, and Lisa McRobertsSCARLET 150

Kimberly A. HendersonHEIRLOOM: THE AFRICAN LEGACY 151

Bertha Ann Jenkins and Catherine BlackMILITARYSTYLE 151

Alice LasarTHE WEDDING HEIRLOOM 151

Bertha Ann Jenkins and Catherine BlackWISEWOMAN 151

Marilyn M. MitchellINTERTWINING INSPIRATION 152

Bijou RobertsonBLACKELEGANCE 152

Elizabeth RollCONTEMPORARY BUSTLE 153

Tonya SchneiderMIDNIGHT IRRJDESCENCE 153

Shawn ShepherdMOCHA AND CREAM 153

Hallie StevensDAKONTEE 153

Inyang Williams and Shu-Hwa LinMETALLIC SEA 154

Kristi Yar^adaBONSAI BONFIRE 154

Andrea YatesGREY FLANNEL SUIT 155

Kaoly XiongCHAMPAGNE SHMMER 155

Nancy Drennen, Jo Barley, and Lindsey DrennenPERSIAN VISION 155

Nancy Drennen, Jo Barley, and Lindsey DrennenURBAN WALK TOP 155

Claire Kapstein, Callie Higginbotham Kimberly Larsgaard, Carrie Laux, Birtukan Abebe, and Eun-Jung KwakIROQUOIS ILLUMINATION 156

Melanie CarricoPROFOUND ENERGY 156

Kyoung-Hee ChoCELEBRATION CAPE #36: TRIBAL DANCE IN RAFFIA AND WOOL 157

Robert Hillestad

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CELEBRATION CAPE #40: FRINGE BENEFITS 157Robert Hillestad

CELEBRATION COAT #40: ODE TO SANTA FE 158Robert Hillestad

PEEK-A-BLUE 158Carla Anderson Perez

HOREON 158Vincent Quevedo

SERENE 159Vincent Quevedo

PERUVIAN PRIDE 159Eulanda A. Sanders

THE DRESS THAT LAUNCHED A THOUSAND SHIPS 160Carolyn Schactler

ODETOJOY 160Diane Sparks, Kai-Ho Mah, and Stuart Sargent

COUNTING SHEEP 161Bernadette Tatarka

ELEGANCE IN DEEP PURPLE 161Diane Sparks and Patricia Murray

WINTER SOLSTICE 161Bernadette Tatarka

PHOENIX RISING 162Maria Day and Sherry Haar

THE MEETING OF EAST AND WEST 162Eundeok Kim

CELTIC COCOON 163Dorita Weaver

INSIDE OUT 163P. J. Chetty and Linda Secor

FUTURISTIC CLEOPATRA 163Rachelle Enriquez and L. Susan Stark

DOTTYDIVA 164Alicia Frederick

SPRING FAERIE 164Susan Gurler

FAERIEQUEEN 164Susan Gurler

SUMMER FAERIE 165Susan Gurler

THE DENIM LEGACY 165Bertha Ann Jenkins and Catherine Black

EUROPEAN TEXTURES 165Sarah Winge

WISPS OF GRAY 165Elizabeth Bye

MULTIPLE ACTS 166M. Jo Kallal and Marilyn M. Mitchell

VIGOR ; 166Vincent Quevedo

ASYMMETRICAL ELEGANCE 166Trisha A. Curtin and Nora M. MacDonald

SOPHISTICATED LADY 167Carolyn Schactler

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