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A Tac cseaba Le Ponant(ppste) pens

p the mst-see lst Mallca alng-

se the qetehst Menca.

From Morc vey preet to

Meorc cet pt, th cruo the Meterre c trce

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M ach 2 0 0 9 i sla n d s. c om

the uh ght of ure, i wk to the bow of the g ycht to cthe Meterre. Were gg through the expe of wter ety, movng n one n th wor. The wn h been crryng uouth from sp cot, where ttue of Chrtopher Coumbu the port cty of Brceo mrk the quet for ew covere by e.The pt nght w jut erene th mornng; our cptn never

ue the motor o th 290-foot vee, Le Ponant, keepg the bowg. i our prvtetteroom, my photogrpher hub i wou ow from the bute of Brceo ept to the tur rhythm of th e . Eve ow, the hfu of other peger beg torute beow eck, i ho oto tht erety, herg mot othg bove the ght ppgof the the ppg of the wve. i wt to oe myef the wter ve , wtchmy rm eg become movg bter ttue wht ook ke cer bow g. Thecoor ot jut gree or bue, go or gry; t c oy be ce Meterre.

a the i ee t, much the cet mr-er : the prome of o the forwrhorzo, the jutte oute fg out

through the morg hze. i wtch, cocouof tht prm experence of pprochngn by bot n mpy excte bout whtcome ext. The oute tke hpe, formg mjetc mout rge. O the orthwete of Morc, the ofty pek of the serre Trmuntn erve nutc gnpotfor th n, the howpece of the weternMeterre. Th why weve trvee ofr from our Cfor home.

But im urpre to n im not reyto ee t yet. Whe we h pe th voy-ge wth the Tuck crue compy, Morctoo out, t oe for ny n trveer.Mon of peope cro the e ech yerto expore n enjoy th n centureworth of cther, cte, beche, mou-tn, mrket n more. after Morc,

Tuck tnerry grcouy gve equ ttenton to top t Menorc the enton of tte-ter n whch rrey etntonby tef. ite, t ofte trete the m uch mer, much tter, ehtorc o-r you mght bump to f you c ter youref wy fromMorc. Yet o th crue, i w bout to cover wht Meorc c omuch better th Morc or mot y other .

Frt, though, i her the nchor rop n ph. Cptn Rg

dumen h toppe u hort of Morc weternmot pont, n theby jut off the eerte et of drgoer. Oy the gu re vtg here.My of the 20 coupe bor trt preprg for wht o our terry: evetu ockg t Pm e Morc, the cpt cty of sp Berci, of whch the 1,400-qure-me Morc the rget. We ejoy freco brekft of freh frut, homeme bre temgcafs,courtey of obor chef Frc itoumbou. The i mke my wy bck tothe ter to o excty wht i wte whe tg t the bow: i jump.

Rety meet fnty i e through the wter. a very nrrow

In

Mallcas castteases at aven-tes t cme, mexplng seasetwns le Pt eSlle (ppste)t navgatngthe cnc Seae Tamntanamntans.

SPAIN

MAllorcA

MeNorcA

Bana

M editerranean Sea

story byMary Heebner photos byMacduff Everton

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M ach 2 0 0 9 i sla n d s. c om

As we slide into ourmooring, the vibrancy

ofMallorcaiseverywhere I look.

Possibilities stretch inall directions alongthe city streets and

over the hills.

cotet hef rop to eep b of qu tht offer the rchet hue yet. a eevge to the et the ony humn outpot on th prt of the Morcn hore. To thewet the ferry route tht rc roun th pont n then turn ke bckwr J ntothe By of Pm t he vbrt port cty. Le Ponant bout to trce the route, too. i tke momet, mybe two mybe three the cmb bck bor.

Typc crue hp ock Pm per-e hrbor, reeg buo of peope whopre cro the n the tet eveopment n ong htory of humn mgrton.For etmte 2,600 yer, wve of humty hve come to the Berc Morc,from the prehtorc Tyotc peope, who crete tctve pottery, to the Rom V who wept cro wth coquerg r, to Mum frmer who e the ry ewth wter whee wm. ste o Morc hve bee but upo, evee butupo g g ke the geoogc yer of the org cff.

a we e to our moorg, the vbrcy of Pm t 400,000 peope everywherei ook. O oe e of the cty the 14th-cetury, crcur Bever Cte, perche protectveyo 400-foot-hgh h bove the hrbor. To the other e the f me Pm Cther known ocy by the Ctn ncknme, LaSeu, whch re bove the ncent cty wn pm-ne treet of the wterfront. it

eem epc n every wy. an n between,pobte n hote n mueum nreturt tretch recto og thecty treet up over the h.

The wk from the ock to the cther hort oe. Oute l seu, i ee the motof the Prc e Mr t the be of the wn notce n the wter how the tggerngce of the pre ofte hmmer. itother momet of cm before my m wth the htory of the pce. a the chroo-ogy goe, Ct coqueror 800 yer go

were ng from the spnh mnn toMorc when powerfu torm ht. Thereer vowe tht f Go pre them, he

wou erect tempe. The Ctn met to the n, foun the te of Mummoque but cther o t. Four hu-re yer go, t w ofcy he, though chge eem cott. if there oe pcetht repreet how cuture ceture coe o Morc, the cther t.

i the overwhemgy vt teror, bthe the roy ght of ery 100 te gwnow, we tke n ome of wht been e n the pt 100 yer. Over the tr copy tht rchtect ato Gu ege prt of cotrbuto he me from 1904to 1914. in one chpe, terr cott tbeu ofcy unvee n 2007 how the mrceof turg wter to we. Tht work re up the w, the h reef, meetg me eye-

to-eye. i fee g ke ive puge uerwter.Jut i try to foow the htorc trck t work n the cther , we move out ntothe urroug Gothc Qurter, tef vey byrth. Grgoye o pter, te toefe wnk t me. Green hutter re coe to keep wrm r from enterng t he cooehoue. Foot-pohe cobbetone gmmer n the fternoon un we top for n heladoalmendra homeme mon ce crem. We peek nto ever cfe n hy pto ttreet eve. The ecoe, ower-e courtyr crete tte oe prt from the thrumof the cty. Wthout the tme on th y to go too fr e, we crce bck to the h rbor

v the cty-w wkwy. There, ner l seu, we her mucn ong oun check for

A whlwn tMallca nclesecet beach n nth; the captaGthc qate,La Se catheaan seclepats; Sllesat msems ancaes; an a chathat lls wthChpns msc

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At sal, the ntmateLe Ponant csngacht exples thewnes theMeteanean,whethe alng theEpean cast(ppste) Mallcas sangshelne.

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The smple le Menca shnes

thgh n ts penels (abve),

hab twns leCtaella, hstcamhses le the

Bnaca Htel,an nvtng am-

es maets.

eveg ope-r cocert. Oce me the of cm, Morc ctuy hre theymc exctemet of Brceo, though o mer ce. i o ove t, but i reze i ct

wt to rex bck t e o our hp, gzg out from the eck g.On our own, though, my hubn n i fee we h ve to queeze n more of Morc

ght. Wth Pm ke the ceter of ph wter, the rppe ro ou twr, becomgcmer the frther you go. a rve to the northern cot e to the enchntng vgeof Vemo. There we vt the montery whe re Chopn wntere n wrote ont,cug the Raindroppreue. i ty chpe i te to p t py th pece. it gve mehver. a youg boy, mybe 10 yer o, wk t rght the frot row. He eemtrxe, h m h utterg o the et bee hm f he pyg og.

Frther og the Trmut rge the tow of ser. a wooe tr from Pm et tto here, whch tef mueum exhbtg rtwork by Pco etchg by Mr.From the tto, trm trce cec route to the m by of Port e ser. The moutwe ttempt to vgte o our ow, rvg the precrou ro tht crw rou throughthe rock n ecen to the ecret bech of Torrent e Pro. There, rver h crve t

own pth to the cot, openng up pebbebech. We wm oge feow veturer mout got hop the cff bove u.

Exhute, we t hve not een ofMorc woner. But returnng to theTuck crue terry, we w oo check offMeorc. Uke the crog from Brceo,th next eg hry worth the tme toufur the . after , Meorc, whch theRom me the tte oe, oy bout25 me wy the Berc herwter e.Our hp, fortutey, tke the cec route, i become ttue to the gete rhythmof the Meterre g. We eve the Byof Pm mke exceptoy we turrou the outher pot of Morc. Thttke u pt nother green et, Cbrer,home of to prk. From there we ejoythe vew of the e, tretchng quety to thehorzon. Before ive orte the memore ofMorc my m photo bum, Meorc

come to vew. a we eter the hrbor, t cer th w be much fferet experece.Le Ponantrw coe to t the eter peu of l Mo, the rt pot sp

to greet the mornng un. The htory here yere but n much ubter wy thn onMorc. The sph Fortre of ibe ii t gur o the t peu, wth mpegeometrc e eg t rchtecture. it te bck oy to the m-19th cetury. Brth Frech force hve come through here, but they t eve much to how for t.

We cotue o; th three-me hrbor more ke rver eg to the tow of Mh.

Cptn Rg te me t one of the wor rget ntur hrbor, n t one of thereo the h ttrcte mrer for ceture. Yet uke Morc, cuture ttke root we o Meorc. i fct, the etre covere ot wth tht me vbrtccophoy of vey htory, but wth t ru. More th 1,500 rcheoogc te re pr-ke cro th t , out the ope ofte ey to rmbe through. Taluas, cettone b tht once upporte ong-ppere bung, now ook ke uprght cptT. The tef c eem much ke oe of thee b, omehow ot o t ow.

an yet, we tep off n Mhn, Menorc coor trt to pper. We n the Merct,the he, htorc coter tht now boun wth f reh frut, cheee n vegetbe. i

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M ach 2 0 0 9 i sla n d s. c om M ach 2 0 0 9 i sla n d s. c om

mpe ome ocy crfte cheee ce Mhn n nk my teeth nto ruby-re tomtoive mhe oto ove-wrm bre, or pa amb oli. strog through the tow, im echteby the h-crochete whte ce curt tht or wow of hop home vretyof ptter. i boutque og the m peetr wkwy, i chooe h-embroerehft memeto of Meorc cework. The peope here pprecte our vt, tkg pre ther rt, ther foo the work theyre hrg wth u.

Meorc oe hve rge e homete, but t hr to cutvte th ry . Forme, frmer hve ptkgy cere the rock-trew o by mkg rytoe wtht form etwork of pot pture. Thee w eem to tretch frther th you expecton n n tht jut 32 me ong by 9 we. Ther work me t pobe to grow whet re ctte, heep pg o where hr-workg y gve wy to ery ght.Uke Morc, to me Meorc eem ou eep whe the u et. From december toFebrury t goe to wter hberto. i the ummer, were ctchg t t t veet.

i fet ruhe on Morc, but Menorc generou wt h tme. it meow, provnc.O Morc, bcycg erou quet to mter oe moutou pe fter other;on Menorc, t more of pcnc-bket--trw-ht ojour o bcyce quek-g by o oe ow ger. The tow of Mh

oo gve wy to the coutrye to theTt e dt, ru of c et Ttyotcettement. archeoogt etmte 100peope ve here ometme n the thrcentury. in the tme nce, no one ne-ther mper kg or mbtou hoteerhve overtke thee grou. it quettoy t w ceture go. The pece hererem me of tht feeg i h the mor-g i woke up o the Meterre: i herothg, yet i c ee everythg.

i the teret of coverg Meorc e toe, ce t pobe oe y, we bor LePonant to foow the outhern hore. it c-ope wth core of tte cove calas ngerng of bue borne of erce rn thtpumme the grou, erog t to rve the rnwter ecpe to the e. We nchort the cozy cove of C G. Whe Morc h t kg mout ro, Meorch the ofter l serpenton, vge wth ever-o-genty curvng treet on t metonecff. nothg tmtg bout t. swmmg the by, i te to the tt h of wvepung wy from horene pebbe n fee the wter current hft from wrm to coo the un penetrte everythng. it f thee nterue bor hp hve cere my ene owe me to otce the prtcur of thee Meterre momet.

On the wetern hore, we turn nto the hrbor of Menorc o cpt, Cute.

strog og, i reze tht t, too, ke tte ter to Pm. i fee jut rexe w ththe peope of Menorc i m wth my feow trveer on the ycht. We re fren,otg the ope wter o eree crue tht ever ee to retur to hore.

a womn n bkery oorwy greet me: Bon dia! Over n epreo n ower-hpepasticettes, cooke ute wth powere ugr, we tk i htg sph, he Ct. The i foow tr of muc to m pz the Roer Church, uumg bug l seu overwhemg. Frgmet of cocerto me-merze me. On nerby bench, mn en gnt h cne, tenng. He met me, n the muc pr up nto the r o the wn my crry t out to e.

ISlANdS.coM/maa

TrACE THiS rouTE

rEAd MorE ArTiCLES

Book your CruiSE

on Menca, thancent settlemTalat e dalt a a lteal walthgh hst,caves se a2,000 B.C. t hman stctes bn late mllenn

I felt rushed on Mallorca, butMenorcais generous with time.It can seem as quiet today as it was centuries ago.

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8/14/2019 Islands Magazine Mallorca Cruise

7/7

Plan Your TriP: Maa/Mna

FlY nnstp n Amecan Alnes m

New y (JFk) t Bacelna (BCN). aa.com

crUISe n the Tac Meteanean

dscve tnea aba Le Ponant, a slee,

thee-maste salng shp, ths 12-a

jne. Le Ponant has 32 statems wth

cean vews an a capact 60 gests,

wth a cew at abt tw t ne. The

te ncles Mallca an Menca as well

as stps n Spans Csta Bava, Fances

sthen cast an the slan Pqelles.The t ens n Mnac. tauck.com

STAY n Bacelna, ght Las ramblas,

at Le Men n the heat the ct.

lemeridien.com on Mallca, the Palac Ca

Sa Galesa s a beatl man hse cn-

vete nt a small, 12-m, ve-sta htel

n the Gthc stct Palma. The wnes

at cllectn, whch ncles M an

cntempa Spansh atsts, ecates the

walls.palaciocasagalesa.com in Menca,

sta at the Bnaca n the tsts St.

Ls n a 200-ea-l amhse cnvete

nt a chamng 18-m htel. biniarroca.com

eAT Fench csne n Le Ponants mal

nng m, calle kakea. Gests canals ne n the t Teace restaant.

tauck.com on lan, t Mallcas anges,

almn ce ceam an wne, an Mencas

hallma qes an mannase. in Palma, La

Tabena el Caacl es glle sea,

e gat cheese an a wne the mnth.

taberna.name in the thlls nthwest

Mallca, Es Vegeet eates t seat-

ng wth a vew the sea. esvergeret.com

lISTeN t smme plen-a cncets n

seveal t venes n an an Palma.

Als n Mal lca, vst Vallemsa, whee

cmpse Feec Chpn wntee. The

annal Chpn Festval wll be hel thee ths

Agst. festivalchopin.com

eXPlore anthe slan n ths Tac

tnea: Pqelles, jst the Fench

cast. on ths caeee an ca-ee slan,

n panamc vstas the hab m 12th-

cent Ft Sante Agathe. in the Plaza es

Ames, enj a game petanque, smla t

bcce ball, whle beatng the heat wth lcal

lcce-favepastis an chlle s.

leArN More abt the Tac cse at

islands.com/mallorca .

cuis (from p. 79)ATauckcruise

aboard Le Ponant(opposite) opens

up themust-seelistofMallorcaalong-

sidethequieterhistoryofMenorca.

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