Islands Magazine Best Islands to Live on 2007

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47 July/August 2007 islands.com If you find that when you travel you often think of never returning home, welcome to the islands club. This thought crosses our minds in nearly every destination we explore. What we realized when we researched this list is that plenty of people follow this dream; maybe you will, too. if you do, send us an e-mail (editor@islands. com) to let us know where you’ve gone. We might want to call on you for next year’s list. A WORD ABOUT OUR RANKINGS The islands that follow do not appear in any particular order. We chose 20 nearly equally-weighted islands based on certain factors. The highest flip-flop rat- ing awarded is a 5. We deducted points for rainy or cold days and fierce tropical weather. The expat numbers are taken from the latest available census statistics. On some islands such data is not tracked, and so we estimated using feedback from on-island contacts and tourism officials. 20 compiled by the editors ∏o on bes∏ �island s�

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http://islands.com Islands magazine presents its annual list of the Best Islands to Live On. Real-estate offerings for island travelers focus on 20 islands in the Caribbean and beyond, Hawaii, Penang, Dominica, Utila, Pico, Aruba, Fiji, St. Kitts, New Zealand and the Bahamas.

Transcript of Islands Magazine Best Islands to Live on 2007

Page 1: Islands Magazine Best Islands to Live on 2007

47July/Augus t 2 0 07 isl a n ds .com

If you find that when you travel you often think of never returning home, welcome to the islands club. This thought crosses our minds in nearly every destination we explore. What we realized when we researched this list is that plenty of people follow this dream; maybe you will, too. if you do, send us an e-mail (editor@islands.

com) to let us know where you’ve gone. We might want to call on you for next year’s list. A word About our rAnkings The islands that follow do not appear in any particular order. We

chose 20 nearly equally-weighted islands based on certain factors. The highest flip-flop rat-ing awarded is a 5. We deducted points for rainy or cold days and fierce tropical weather. The expat numbers are taken from the latest available census statistics. On some islands such data is not tracked, and so we estimated using feedback from on-island contacts and tourism officials.

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PenAng, MAlAysiA the vibe Penang is exotic and tidy, an island developed by the British as a trading post and now home to a blend of Chinese, indian and Malay cultures. From the golden sands of Batu Ferringhi on the north coast to steep limestone mountains crowned by Chinese temples, Penang is also geographically diverse. Much of colonial George Town is meticulously preserved. a cause-way provides easy access to the Malay Peninsula (directly

to the east) for those stricken with island fever. “Moving to Penang was the best decision i’ve made so far in my 59 years of life,” says British expat steve Woodhouse, a former Un executive who retired there three years ago. He was attracted to the ultra-modern infra-structure, world-class health care, cheap flights to other places in asia, superb food and multicultural ambience. escape-to-paradise factors dive into food to die for, especially from the street stalls; en-joy a nice string of holidays including Chinese new Year, Ramadan and diwali; and hike to secluded beaches, such as Pantai Kerachut, where hawksbill turtles nest. A perfect afternoon soak up the sun along the beaches of Batu Ferringhi. Browse the antique stores and bookshops of George Town. Ride the funicular railway to the top of Penang Hill, then walk back down via Waterfall Road and through the Botanic Gardens. After living there for a year, what’s your best discovery? “The Tropical spice Garden on the [north] coast road, Jalan Teluk Bahang, is a marvelous maze of trails that wind through the jungle, and it has an enormous range of tropical plants,” Wood-house says. Parties worth going to The Penang international drag-on Boat Festival in June draws rowers from around the world and revelers from throughout Malaysia. try it before you buy it scope out the island from the 19th-century Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, now a hotel, on leith street in George Town. Rates from $80, including breakfast. cheongfatttzemansion.com — joe yogerst

WhAt to buystarting: Sunny three-bedroom condos in Eden Seaview, a luxe de-velopment overlooking popular batu Ferringhi beach (Penang’s version of Waikiki beach); private balcony with sea or mountain views; 15-minute walk to restaurants and shops; from $74,000. penang-property.comMid-range: twenty-nine floors above the sea, this four-bedroom, 2,100-square-foot penthouse overlooks popular Miami beach; $203,000. penang-property.comdream house: Chic ultra-modern living in tanjung bunga; almost 5,000 square feet, including four bedrooms, a private elevator and a living room with picture windows and balcony (shown below); $441,000. penang-property.comease of buying a home: Malaysia is one of the most expat-friendly countries in Asia. the Malaysia My Second home (MM2h) program provides incentives for foreigners who intend to settle permanently. Foreigners, however, are not allowed to own more than two properties.

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: (a light monsoon season) expats to locals: 2:100 Houses available from $74,000 Population of main town, george town: 600,000 lan-guages spoken: Malay, English and various Chinese and indian dialects Percent who speak english: 75 get there from u.s. via Kuala lumpur, Malaysia. Penang is a 50-minute flight from Kuala lumpur. Closest hospital: George town Price of a tiger beer: from $1.50 ease of immigration: easy with special incentives in place 411: tourismpenang.gov.my

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Clockwise from top left: Wat Chaiya Mangkalaram (buddhist temple); Kek lok Si temple; a Penang beach scene; assam laksa. opposite top: Cheong Fatt tze Mansion has lovely architectural details.

b e s t i s l a n d s t o l i v E o n�Penang�

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doMiniCA the vibe an emerald isle tucked into the Wind-wards between Guadeloupe and Martinique, dominica is an oasis of national parks and forest reserves. its flavor is a little French, a little British and a little Creole, and it is less ex-pensive than many other Caribbean landfalls. But the major attraction is pure, green living. Former st. louis, Missouri, nurse Jennifer Miller and her husband, Roger, came to domi-nica two years ago and are now building their own house in

an ecologically responsible way. in dominica, you don’t need heat or air conditioning, and there is plenty of water and locally grown produce, Miller says. Plus the backdrop is glo-rious. escape-to-paradise factors With 365 rivers, you never have to visit the same one twice, at least in your first year. it has an off-the-beaten-Caribbean-track feel, se-cluded black-sand beaches backed by jungle-covered mountains and the only community of Carib indians to have their own reserve, near the island’s remote northeastern shore. A perfect afternoon Hike the syndicate-Portsmouth trail on the northwest coast to an overlook from which you can see the indigenous dominican parrots called sis-serous or snorkel with humpbacks, pigmy sperms and other whales that hang offshore. After living there for a year, what’s your best discovery? “The mineral baths in [the village of] Wotten Waven” in the Roseau Valley near the island’s southwest coast, says Miller, “where you can bathe in warm waters.” Parties worth going to Everyone shows up for Friday-night happy hour at the waterfront Fort Young Hotel in Roseau and the World Creole Music Festival each fall, when many islanders don traditional dress to partake in dance, song and folksy Jing Ping music. try it before you buy it scope out the island from the Papillote Wilderness Retreat, five minutes from the capital, Roseau, yet entrenched in a rainforest. Rates from $110. papillote.dm — jy

WhAt to buystarting: Plop yourself in the middle of Dominica’s best resource: nature. these eco-units are made from local wood with roofs designed to let you sleep below moonlight. trails lead to natural bathing pools; $250,000. safe havenoffshore.com Mid-range: West-coast property with twin cottages overlooking the Carib-bean; both are one-bedroom with an open-plan kitchen that leads to a sea-view balcony (shown below); $357,116 for both. safehavenoffshore.com dream house: Pont Cassé four- bedroom villa set on two acres of landscaped gardens in the forested central highlands above roseau; views of Morne trois Pitons national Park and easy access to hiking trails; $675,000. safehavenoffshore.comease of buying a home: An alien-landholding license must be obtained from the government to purchase a home on one acre of land or more; the fee is 10 percent of the assessed property value. there is also an ad-ditional transfer fee of 10.5 percent of market value on all property.

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: expats to locals: 1:300 Houses available from $147,000 Population of main town, roseau: 20,000 languages spoken: English with some Creole get there from u.s. via San Juan, Puerto rico. Dominica is an hour-and-45-minute flight from San Juan. Closest hospital: roseau Price of a kubuli beer: from $1.10

ease of immigration: easy with the Economic Citizenship Program 411: dominica.dm

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Clockwise from top left: victoria Falls; the old church

in the fishing village of Soufrière; la robe Creole

restaurant; a cricket match near rosalie; Freshwater lake. opposite top: red rocks at Pointe baptiste.

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utilA, bAy islAnds, HondurAs the vibe What year is it? a quarter the size of better-known sister island Roatán, Utila is long and low-slung with wooded hills framed by white sands. it is a place that truly seems lost in time. its culture blends aspects of spanish, English and Garifuna in a tropical, affordable paradise two hours from Miami. “We made a trip to Utila three years ago and found an island that was truly ‘old’ Caribbean,” says dallas attorney Trey Branham, who is currently preparing land to build a home on the island. “My wife and i have been to a lot of places in the world, and few of them are as laid-back as Utila. add to that some of the best diving in the Caribbean and still

very affordable prices, and you have an ideal place.” escape-to-paradise factors “You can swim 20 yards off the end of our dock and dive a reef wall that is between 140 and 200 feet deep,” Branham says. live the life Jimmy Buffett croons about in “Margaritaville” on Utila. strum your guitar on your front-porch swing as you watch the sun set over the Caribbean. A perfect afternoon Underwater! Utila lies at the southern end of the largest barrier reef system in the Western Hemisphere. landlubbers can linger at la Piccola-Kate’s italian Restaurant in East Harbour and order its homemade pasta or sip gin-and-tonics in the tiny bar beneath the mamey zapote tree at the Colibri Hill Resort in sandy Bay. After living there for a year, what’s your best discovery? “if you listen carefully,” says Branham, “you’ll hear this lovely English accent.” That’s because many of the residents are descendants of the British citizens who came to Utila from the Cayman islands after the Brits abolished slavery. Par-ties worth going to attend the island’s annual Carnival (July) and the sun Jam music festival on Water Cay (august); frequent the over-water Tranquila bar at sunset. try it before you buy it scope out the island from The Boat House, an over-the-water house in a neighborhood known as The Point. Rates from $135 per night with a four-night minimum stay. destinationutila.com/boathouse.html — jy

WhAt to buystarting: A fixer upper: A 900-square-foot, one-bedroom wood-framer on a beach with access to a community dock on a third-acre lot; boat access only; $175,000. utilarealty.netMid-range: two-bedroom beach bungalow with loft; more than 2,000 square feet with 105 feet of beach frontage; boat access only (shown below); $250,000. utilarealty.netdream house: Er, an entire island, that is. the nearly 1.5-acre Diamond Caye may need some infrastructure, but there’s a starter kit in place: a palapa and cistern. it’s a 20-minute boat ride from the southwest coast of utila; $650,000. utilarealty.netease of buying a home: Due to murky land titling, it’s highly advisable to hire a honduran lawyer to guide you through the process. A number of u.S. companies now offer title in-surance for the bay islands. homes (or land) with boat-only access are generally much cheaper than com-parable property with road access, says Gary howorka of utila realty.

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: expats to locals: 5:100 Houses available from $175,000 Population of main town, east Harbour: 2,000 languages spoken: Spanish and English Percent who speak english: 75 get there from u.s. via roatán, honduras. utila is a 15-minute flight from roatán. Closest hospital: roatán Price of a salva Vida beer: from $0.75 ease of immigration: easy with capital investment 411: letsgohonduras.com

b e s t i s l a n d s t o l i v e o n�Utila�

Clockwise from top: Cabana at the laguna beach resort; a beach on utila’s southern coast; “downtown” utila. opposite top: A detail from utila’s main street.

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PiCo, Azores, PortugAl the vibe Covered in farms and forest and having some of the purest air on the planet, Pico is one of the larger, lusher islands in the azores, a mid- atlantic Portuguese archipelago of nine islands. a whaling center in the 1800s, the island today is unspoiled and largely undiscovered. This is the place for those wanting to reno-vate a crumbling farmhouse in the countryside at an afford-able price. Maybe you can make your own cheese or wine, as locals do. “Ten to 15 years ago,” says Graeme Brown of

Pico Estates, “people here were still living off the land and pulling oxen around.” some still do. south afri-can artist Odette Gaud moved her family to Pico five years ago. “We were initially taken aback by the honesty and friendliness of the people,” she says. escape-to-paradise factors Whale watch with a local guide; grow grapes in a lava-stone corral and bottle your own Verdelho do Pico wine. A perfect afternoon Explore the Gruta das Torres lava tubes with a flashlight and helmet, then have lunch over on Faial island, a gathering spot for yachties. After living there for a year, what’s your best discovery? “The homemade ice cream at My sweet Pico in Madalena village,” Gaud says. Parties worth going to semana dos Baleeiros (Week of the Whalers) in the south-coast village of lajes is a celebration of local dance, music and faith that started in 1986 but has origins dating back to 1882. Gaud also loves the small get-togethers in the town squares where everyone comes together to drink, eat, gossip and listen to the village orchestra.

try it before you buy it scope out the island from Pocinho Bay. Close by is the beach and ancient UnEsCO-designated vineyards. Rates from $169, including breakfast. pocinhobay.com — jy

WhAt to buystarting: old, seafront five- bedroom stone house that needs tlC. Excellent investment for those seeking to restore a ruined farm-house in the Portuguese country-side; $92,000. picoestates.co.nrMid-range: two-bedroom cottage renovated in traditional Azorean style (dark stone walls, red-tile roof and white window frames) and located far off the beaten path; property also contains ruins of a stone barn (shown below); $160,000. picoestates.co.nrdream house: Modern, four-bedroom A-frame home in the country with sweeping views of the Atlantic and São Jorge island; large living room, modern kitchen and a second-floor balcony; $611,000. picoestates.co.nrease of buying a home: Since Portugal is a member of the European union, the Azores has few restrictions when it comes to buying homes or property, especially with cash sales. Mortgages, on the other hand, are more challenging.

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: (mid-Atlantic weather, mild but foggy) expats to locals: 1:100 Houses available from $92,000 Population of main town, Madalena: 6,136 languages spoken: Portuguese and English Percent who speak english: 30 get there from u.s. via boston to the main island of São Miguel. Pico is a one-hour flight from São Miguel.

Closest hospital: Faial island, a 15-minute ferry ride Price of a sagres beer: from $1.35 ease of immigration: difficult 411: visitazores.org

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Clockwise from top: lagoa do Capitao and the Ponta do Pico; Madalena homes on the coast; harbor and village of Madalena. opposite top: Some of Pico’s vineyards.

b e s t i s l a n d s t o l i v E o n�Pico�

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ArubA the vibe Just 15 miles off the coast of Venezuela, the dutch isle of aruba is anchored at the southern end of the Caribbean, surrounded by sapphire sea and blessed by desert-like equatorial weather. One of the globe’s most cosmopolitan places, people of more than 79 different na-tionalities call aruba home. Casinos, nightclubs and beach hotels add a bit of glitz to a thoroughly unpretentious island with residents who relish their economic prosperity and cultural diversity. “aruba seemed to have the perfect mix of the image i had in my head of a better way to live,” says Chris smith, a native of Maine who fled south in 1996. “The weather is perfect, and there is an opportunity to learn different lan-

guages.” Most people on the island are natural linguists and speak four different languages: Papiamento, dutch, English and spanish.

escape-to-paradise factors Exotic south america is only a short plane ride away, and you never have to guess what the weather is going to be like; it’s nearly always 85 degrees and rarely rains. Wild parakeets fly through the air, and you really won’t believe how blue the water is. A perfect afternoon Putter around in your tropical garden or simply hang out at the shore. “Even after 10 years,” smith says, “i still love every minute at the beach — the strong trade winds and the color and warmth of the sea.” After living there, what’s your best discovery? secluded Grapefield Beach on the southeast shore is where smith has erected a beach house from driftwood and other salvaged items. “i bought a real fir tree from Canada here on the island and completely decorated it for Christmas one year.”

Parties worth going to dera Gai (st. John’s day) in June is the ar-ubian equivalent of a harvest festival. “But Carnival is the absolute best,” says smith. “despite the intense heat and the aching muscles (from dancing), every single minute of Carnival season is worth it.” try it be-fore you buy it scope out the island from the Bucuti Beach Resort, located in the low-rise hotel zone steps from the gor-geous Eagle Beach. Rates from $210, in-cluding breakfast. bucuti.com — jy

WhAt to buystarting: three-bedroom ranch house in Pos Chiquito, an area with a secluded shoreline; ocean views from the patio and a garden planted with lime trees; minutes from snor-keling; $87,500. absolutearuba.comMid-range: this four-bedroom home’s master suite has a veranda with an ocean view, spacious pool, built-in barbecue and covered patio (shown below); $543,000. coldwellbanker.awdream house: two-story, fully furnished tuscan villa with ocean views, state-of-the-art kitchen with all-new appliances and a kitchenette on the second floor; swimming pool and gazebo in the garden; $2.5 mil-lion. coldwellbanker.awease of buying a home: Cash buyers have a distinct advantage. “obtain-ing a loan here can be complicated for a foreigner,” says tina Escobedo, an independent real estate consul-tant on the island. “For starters, you have to have 40 to 50 percent down. but legally speaking, if you have the money, you can buy.”

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: expats to locals: 25:100 Houses avail-able from $70,000 Population of main town, oranjestad: 12,381 languages spoken: Dutch, Papiamento, English and Spanish Percent who speak english: 64 get there from u.s. nonstop from major u.S. cities. (Clear u.S. Customs in Aruba when depart-ing.) Closest hospital: oranjestad Price of a balashi beer: from $2.00 ease of im-migration: moderate; lots of paperwork and patience are needed. 411: aruba.com

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ÉFAtÉ, VAnuAtu the vibe Vanuatu was recently ranked the “happiest na-tion on the planet” by the new Economic Foundation’s Happy Planet in-dex. Vanuatu comprises 83 islands spread across the southwestern Pacific Ocean between new Caledonia and the solomon islands. One of the main islands, Éfaté, is a funky mix of European colonial relics, modern australian influence and vibrant local Melanesian culture with a thick rainforest in the center and coconut palms ringing the shore. “Vanuatu lifestyle is the best

i’ve ever come across,” says Kiwi author and entre-preneur James Coyle, who moved to the island six years ago. it’s a south Pacific paradise at a reason-able price and with a lack of commercialization. Plus there’s good internet service, safe drinking wa-ter, friendly locals and a minimal tax environment. escape-to-paradise factors Within an hour’s flight of Éfaté are tribal villages, lava-spewing volcanoes and underwater World War ii relics, including the world’s largest divable wreck (ss President Coolidge).

A perfect afternoon Hang at the Waterfront Bar & Grill in Port-Vila with expat american owners (and former yachties) don and donna, then lounge beneath a pandanus palm on the appropriately named White sands Beach. Break for lunch at the open-air Tama-nu, located just south of Port-Vila. After living there for a year, what’s your best discovery? “Benjor Restaurant in Mele Bay,” says James Coyle — or to use its proper name, the Officer’s Club at Ben-jor Beach Club — on the site of a World War ii american military officers’ club. The deck-top cafe offers all sorts of nouvelle south Pacific delights like raviolis stuffed with crab and spring rolls with garlic prawns. Parties worth going to Have a sundowner at the Bali Hai Bar at the iririki island Resorts & spa on iririki island, a five-minute ferry ride from Port-Vila; watch the nagol ceremony, a land-diving tradition (the earliest form of bungee jumping) held in april, May and June on Pentecost island, a 50-minute flight from Éfaté. try it before you buy it scope out Éfaté from the Erakor island Re-

sort & spa, a short drive (and ferry ride) from Port-Vila. Rates from $264, including breakfast. erakor.vu — jy

WhAt to buystarting: three-bedroom white-washed bungalow with veranda near the university of the South Pacific; sprawling lawn and fully-fenced tropical garden; $236,000. first nationalvanuatu.comMid-range: three-bedroom water-front bungalow on the outskirts of Port-vila with access to a white-sand beach; swimming pool, wooden deck and wrap-around veranda; $372,000. firstnationalvanuatu.comdream house: Don’t stop the carnival. the 16-acre private-island resort of Erakor, a short boat trip from Port-vila, is for sale. you could run a hotel or have the best home friends could ask for. there are 21 waterfront bungalows, a spa and one of the oldest open-air churches in the South Pacific for approximately $7 million (shown below). firstnationalvanuatu.comease of buying a home: residence or retirement permits should be obtained before purchasing property or a house in vanuatu. All homes and land are of-fered as leaseholds for 75 years.

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: (rains 100-plus days a year) expats to locals: 2.5:100 Houses available from $195,000 Population of main town, Port-Vila: 33,700 languages spoken: English, French, bislama and other local languages

Percent who speak english: 80 get there from u.s. via Auckland, new Zealand, or Sydney, Australia. Éfaté is a three-to-four-hour flight from those oceanic gateways.

Closest hospital: Port-vila Price of a tusker beer: from $3.00 ease of immigration: moderate with capital investment 411: vanuatutourism.com

�Vanuatu�

Clockwise from top: Coastline near Port-

vila; Port-vila Market on Éfaté; Mele-Maat

Cascades; Port havan-nah village on Éfaté’s north coast. opposite

top: Detail at the Port-vila Market.

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st. kitts the vibe st. Kitts is half of a pleasant little Caribbean nation called st. Kitts & nevis. shaped like a drumstick, st. Kitts is one of those increasingly rare isles that hasn’t been overrun by mega development and where, in certain residential areas, no building can be built higher than a coconut palm. slow-paced and thoroughly mellow, the island revels in both its natural treasures, like the rain-forest around Mt. liamuiga, and historical relics such as the Brim-stone Hill Fortress national Park (“Gibraltar of the West indies”). “liming is a favorite pastime,” says american laura Getz, who relocated her family to st. Kitts 15 years ago. “Just hanging out with

friends and having a good time no matter where you are — the beach, at home or out at a restaurant. it’s not unusual for locals to stop their cars on the road and chat, holding up traffic. But there’s no road rage. no one would even think of blowing a horn; you just wait and eventu-ally drive on.” escape-to-paradise factors Old sunken ships are yet to be discovered offshore, and one of the Caribbean’s dreamiest views looks out over st. Eustatius and saba from Brimstone Hill. A perfect afternoon Hang out at a beach bar at Frigate Bay and play a game of dominoes or bridge. After living there for a year, what’s your best dis-covery? “The sunset Beach Bar on south Friars Beach,” Getz says. she spends her afternoons here lounging on a beach chair, having drinks and enjoying lobster and rice. “They also have monthly bonfires dur-ing the full moon.” Parties worth going to almost every night you can party at the Turtle Beach Bar & Grill and Mr. X’s shiggidy shack bar; the local fishing tournaments are a big deal; and J’ouvert on december 26 (Boxing day) is a large street festival during the st. Kitts carnival season.

try it before you buy it scope out the island from Timothy Beach Resort on Frigate Bay; some rooms open directly onto the beach. Rates from $99. timothybeachresort.com — jy

WhAt to buystarting: three-bedroom canary- yellow house with white and pink trim and wood shutters; French doors open onto a patio shaded by bougainvillea; private path to the beach; $370,000. stkittsrealty.comMid-range: Eighteenth-century, three-bedroom great house; main building is one of the oldest sugar-plantation homes on the island; panoramic views of St.-barths, St. Martin and Mt. liamuiga; banana, avocado and lemon trees; $850,000. stkittsrealty.comdream house: Five-bedroom mansion with stunning views of the ocean; great room with 25-foot-high ceilings and oversized rafters (shown be-low); $2.65 million. stkittsrealty.comease of buying a home: An alien- landholder license is necessary in most cases, issued free of charge in expat-heavy areas like Frigate bay and South East Peninsula, or at 10 percent of assessed property value elsewhere. Expect a three-month wait for it. local attorney fees will amount to around two percent of total purchase price.

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: expats to locals: 5:100 Houses available from $370,000 Population of main town, basseterre: 13,251 language spoken: English

get here from u.s. via nonstop flights from major cities. Closest hospital: basse-terre Price of a Carib beer: from $1.00 ease of immigration: easy with an economic citizenship program 411: stkittstourism.kn

Clockwise from top left: Past and present are everywhere; the western coastline; the Circus at basse-terre, fashioned after london’s Piccadilly Circus. opposite top: view from ottley’s Plantation inn.

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HAwke’s bAy, nortH islAnd, new zeAlAnd the vibe napa Valley meets down Under: Perched on the eastern edge of north island, Hawke’s Bay is new Zealand’s oldest winemaking region with sandy beaches and green hills as well as a thriving arts scene. napier, the bay area’s paramount city, is known as the art deco capital of the world. The region also has its fair share of Maori culture. “Growing up in California we wanted to continue that laid-back beach lifestyle,” says Cornel Walewski, a san Jose na-tive who moved to new Zealand seven years ago. “and we found Hawke’s Bay quite similar in that respect. napier was big enough to have all our living necessities but small enough to retain that small-town atmosphere. But i suppose the main reason is that both my wife and i are keen enthusiasts of the art deco era.”

escape-to-paradise factors Enjoy unlimited supplies of the world’s best chardonnay and syrah, farmers markets and handmade cheeses in one of the sun-niest regions of new Zealand, plus plenty of artsy small-town soirees like the outdoor concerts

at the Black Barn Vineyards set in unspoiled, perfectly green coun-tryside. A perfect afternoon linger at napier’s sidewalk cafes, cycle between various wineries, browse the Hawke’s Bay Farmers Market in Hastings or perfect your latest outdoor adventure activity. (How about paragliding?) After living there for a year, what’s your best dis-covery? “The Pathway!” says Walewski, who walks it, jogs it and bikes it, stopping at all the happenings along the way. “The Rotary Pathway right along the ocean goes on for miles all around napier, complete with park benches, bike racks and water fountains.” Parties worth going to Make time for the Geon Brebner Print art deco Weekend in napier in February, Harvest Hawke’s Bay festival, also in February, and the Edible arts Fest in March. Walewski especially likes the art deco fest and “dressing up in clothes from that era, dancing to its jazz, driving around in vintage cars and living life to the ‘no worries’ tune of the 1930s.” try it before you buy it scope out the east coast of north island from The County Hotel, a restored art deco building close to wine country, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean-like climate. Rates from $205. countyhotel.co.nz — jy

WhAt to buystarting: Cozy two-bedroom cottage on a quiet tree-lined street on napier’s hospital hill; French doors lead to an open veranda; $228,045. tremains.co.nzMid-range: Funky, 1970s-style four-bedroom home on the beach in napier; large entertainment area and saltwater pool (shown below); $346,821. tremains.co.nz dream house: Five-bedroom house, circa-1910, with sea views on napier’s bluff hill; Marseille-tiled roof, four fireplaces, a farm-style kitchen with open fire and new Zealand native timbers throughout for $471,887. tremains.co.nzease of buying a home: there are virtually no restrictions on foreign ownership.

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: (temperatures dip below 70.) expats to locals: 17:100 Houses available from $150,000 Population of main towns, napier and Hastings: 53,600; 67,500 language spoken: English with some Maori get there from u.s. via Auckland, new Zealand. hawke’s bay is a one-hour flight from Auckland. Closest hospital: napier Price of a lion red beer: from $4.40 ease of immigration: easy due to the Skilled Migrant immigration Process 411: newzealand.com

b e s t i s l a n d s t o l i v E o n�NewZealand�

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Clockwise from top left: take Five restaurant and Jazz bar in hawke’s bay; Cathedral Cove on the Coromandel Peninsula; Art-Deco detail in napier; view from te Mata Peak, hawke’s bay. opposite top: Evening view of vineyards in hawke’s bay.

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tAVeuni, Fiji the vibe Gauguin’s tropical nirvana comes to life in Taveuni, long called the “Garden island” due to its lush vegetation and rich volcanic soil. it retains a bygone innocence that has faded in other parts of Fiji, a sprawl-ing archipelago with more than 333 islands; Taveuni is part of the nation’s northern chain. The big island of Viti levu is an hour’s flight from Taveuni, but you’ll find modern conveniences without all the flying time on Fiji’s second-largest island, Vanua levu, and in its bustling main town of savusavu, which is just a ferry-ride away. Jungle-covered mountains make the interior of Taveuni uninhabitable but a para-dise for trekkers and bird watchers.

somosomo strait off the west coast is one of the south Pacific’s most extraordinary dive sites. Many of the 100 or so expats are actively involved in helping local people, says Ronna Goldstein, a native new Englander who moved to the island 17 years ago. “Back in the states you can send a check off to some charity, but you don’t get to see the results on a daily basis like you do here.”

escape-to-paradise factors You’ll find an airstrip rather than an airport, only a few short sections of paved road and world-class dive sites like Rainbow Reef and The Edge in your backyard. A perfect afternoon Munch the island’s best pizza at Tramontu’s Bar and Grill; hike to the bottom of 600-foot Bouma Falls for a swim in cool mountain water or walk the trail to secluded lavena Beach.

After living there for a year, what’s your best discovery? “audrey’s sweets shoppe,” says Cary stein, a Californian who built a house on Taveuni three years ago. “audrey is an american woman who has lived on the island for around 15 years.” Her specialties include pies, homemade coffee liqueur and chocolate fudge cake. Parties worth going to during diwali, the Hindu festival of lights (Oc-tober or november), indian residents decorate their homes with electric lights and candles. try it before you buy it scope out the island from the Coconut Grove Beachfront Cottages. Rates from $155, including breakfast. coconutgrovefiji.com — jy

WhAt to buystarting: Much of Fiji’s available stock is freehold, so people commonly build rather than buy houses. Prices start at around $50,000 for five acres near the beach. Mid-range: one-bedroom cottage a short walk to the beach with ocean views and a lush tropical garden with mango, papaya, coconut, banana, breadfruit, avocado and orange trees for $185,000. taveunirealestate.comdream house: two-bedroom water-front bungalow with hardwood floors and a covered deck; open-plan living, dining and kitchen areas; close to restaurants and a general store; $525,000. taveunirealestate.comease of buying a home: Fiji’s real estate market is still relatively unreg-ulated; foreigners can buy land and homes but should proceed with cau-tion. less than 10 percent of land is available freehold, but taveuni has a higher percentage than other islands. Settling in can be a long, frustrat-ing process. “they tell you it’s easy,” says Goldstein, “and three years later you’re still waiting for a title.”

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: expats to locals: 1:200 Houses available from under $200,000 Population of main town, naqara: 800 languages spoken: English, Fijian and hindi Percent who speak english: 99 get there from u.s. via Auckland, new Zealand. viti levu is a three-hour flight from Auckland, and taveuni is another hour-and- 10-minute flight from viti levu. Closest hospital: taveuni Price of a Fiji gold beer: from $2.50 ease of immigration: medium 411: bulafiji.com

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Clockwise from top: taveuni from above; some of the world’s

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b e s t i s l a n d s t o l i v E o n��Taveuni��

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long islAnd, bAHAMAs the vibe Eighty miles long and no more than four miles wide, long island lives up to its name. some believe that long island may have been Columbus’ first landfall in the new World. The island lies almost dead center in the Bahamian archipel-ago, just east of Exuma. despite a recent influx of expats, it remains an old-school isle of farming, fishing and boat-building. Queen’s Highway, which runs the length of the island, is a meandering rib-bon of asphalt that runs between the swank stella Maris Resort Club

in the north and isolated villages in the south where the modern world has yet to set foot. “it’s a tough life, but someone has to do it,” says resident Joanna Molin, who 16 years ago traded snowy Ontario for sunny long island. “My husband and i have been to a number of other Bahamian islands and never felt as welcomed and comfortable as here on long island.” Other fac-tors that tip the balance in favor of long island for Molin include interesting bars and restaurants and less-trodden back roads that lead to colonial ruins and secluded beaches. escape-to-paradise factors There is no personal income tax, capital gains tax, sales tax, or inheritance tax, and very low probate fees. Buy a boat; local ar-tisans will craft you a custom-designed sloop. A perfect afternoon Kayak the north-end sea caves; play a rousing game of bocce ball on the back lawn; or swim through your own secluded cove. After living there for a year, what’s your best discovery? “The geography,” says Molin. “so many contrasts. dramatic white cliffs overlooking pounding waves on the atlantic side and quiet white-sand beaches on the west side.” Molin likes visiting Wilk Cay on the atlantic side for great beach walks. “You can walk for hours from one beach to the next, hiking over little hills. The shelling is good, too.” Parties worth going to say yes to any invitation to a pig roast, and the an-nual long island Regatta in May or June. “Regatta is a time of spec-tacular sailing, impromptu parties and lots of good old Bahamian

rake ’n scrape music,” Molin says. “and always lots of good food and drink!” try it be-fore you buy it scope out the island from the stella Maris Resort Club near the north End. Rates from $155. stella marisresort.com — jy

WhAt to buystarting: two-bedroom house near Stella Maris resort Club with views over the Atlantic and Exuma bank; roofed porch/cabana; nearby ma-rina, restaurants and tennis courts; $295,000. knowlesrealty.comMid-range: two-bedroom house with open-plan kitchen, a wide, covered balcony and panoramic views; close to Dean’s blue hole (shown below); $440,000. knowlesrealty.comdream house: three-bedroom house overlooking a cove; sunset views from bluff-top location; water access, in-cluding boat mooring and gazebo with barbecue; semi-furnished main house and separate guesthouse/studio; $2.2 million. coldwellbankerbahamas.comease of buying a home: non-citizens purchasing homes (for single-family use) on less than five acres need to register their purchase with the gov-ernment, but that’s about the extent of red tape. “Any more (than five acres) and they must be approved by the bahamian investment board,” says Jeannette Knowles, long island spe-cialist for Coldwell banker bahamas.

FACtS oF liFE Flip-flop quotient: expats to locals: 1:100 Houses avail-able from $258,000 Population of main town, deadman’s Cay: 200 language spoken: English get there from u.s. via nassau, bahamas. long island is a one-hour flight from nassau. Closest hospital: nassau Price of kalik beer: from $3.00 ease of im-migration: easy with capital investment 411: bahamas.com

b e s t i s l a n d s t o l i v e o n�Long Island�

Clockwise from top: Aerial view of long island; St. Andrews Church in Wemyss; Cape Santa Maria caves. opposite top: Cape Santa Maria beach resort.

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Union island, St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Flip-flop quotient: 5 expats to locals: 4:100 Houses available from $245,000

Population of main town, Clifton: 1,500 language spoken: English get there

from u.s. via San Juan, Puerto rico. From San Juan it’s a two-hour-and-twenty-minute flight to St. vincent and then a 15-minute flight to union island.

Closest hospital: St. vincent (Clifton has a clinic.) Price of a Hairoun beer: from $1.50 ease of immigration: mod-erate with a capital investment 411: svgtourism.com

the vibe Colorful houses are scattered randomly across the hills like marbles tossed in the grass, and funky villages

cascade downhill to a..perfectly..invit-ing blue sea. this could be you Ken-neth Reece moved from California to Union island seven m o n t h s . a g o. . He lives on the north

side of the island in a luxury apartment in the hotel he owns, called Bigsand, and is planning to start construction on a beachfront villa also on the north coast.

what’s your best discovery? “There’s a view point on the island called Fort Hill from where you have a splen-did view over the ocean and big parts of the island.” Move-in advice “First, find a good local attorney with experi-ence handling real-estate cases. second,

have your designers and architects work with someone who has experience with construction on Union. For example, you cannot use the sand from Union in foundations, which you would never know without local knowledge.”

Big Island, Hawaiian Islands, USA

Flip-flop quotient: 3 (large amounts of rain on east coast) expats (not born in the Hawaiian islands) to locals: 40:100 Houses available from mid to high $100,000s Population of main town, Hilo: 45,000 language spoken: English get there from u.s. non-stop Closest hospital: hilo Price of kona brewing Company beer: from $3.80 411: bigisland.org

the vibe Hawaii’s largest island has the lowest-priced homes in the chain, nine different climate zones and bud-ding arts communities in Holualoa near Kailua Kona, Hawi in north Kohala, and in Hilo. this could be you Rose delfin moved to the Big island from Canada in 1995 and obtained her real-estate license. she lives and works in Hilo.

what’s your best discovery? “You can take a boat off the east coast to where lava from Hawaii Volcanoes nation-al Park pours into the ocean. You’ll see the lava glow and feel its heat.

it’s unbelievably gorgeous. To me, this is one of the best local adventures.”

Move-in advice “We have a remark-able melting pot of people here with great ethnic diversity. Remember who you are, but embrace the local culture. learn some of the local ways and adopt aina, or appreciation for the land.”

Norfolk Island Flip-flop quotient: 4 (drops to 60 de-

grees in winter) expats to locals: 39:100 Houses available from high $100,000s Population of norfolk island: 2,523 language spoken: English get there

from u.s. via Sydney. it’s a 70-minute flight from Sydney to norfolk. Closest hospital: the town of burnt Pine Price of a beesting beer: from $2.00 ease of immigration: difficult; arduous applica-tion process 411: norfolkisland.nf

the vibe This self-governing aus-tralian territory off the mainland’s east coast is free of traffic lights, crime and income taxes. But it’s got plenty

of lagoons and na-tive pine trees, and one-third of the island is designated as a national park. Bush walk your life away. this could be you Rael donde moved to norfolk

island from southern California in 2003. she owns Cumberland Holiday apartments and lives in Mountbatten Estate on the east side of the island.

what’s your best discovery? “You’ll find the best coffee on the island at The Olive, a cafe in the village in the town of Burnt Pine.” Move-in advice “Pack your things very well, as your household items will come ashore on a row boat. norfolk island has no harbor or barge. and bring a kayak. The wa-ters are pristine and spectacular.”

Cedar Key, Florida, USA Flip-flop quotient: 3.5 (temperatures

can drop in fall/winter) expats (not born in Cedar key) to locals: 12:100 Houses available from $200,000 Popula-tion of main town, the city of Cedar key: 900 language spoken: English Closest airport: Gainesville. Cedar Key is a one-hour drive from Gainesville. Closest hospital: Gainesville Price of a beer: from $2.50 411: cedarkey.org

the vibe Just a short bridge-drive from the mainland, Cedar, the name of both the main town and the island, actually stretches out over six islands. it’s got a cute downtown, plenty of nature-minded residents and some of the state’s last affordable real estate.

this could be you doug Maple, origi-nally from atlanta, moved to Cedar Key eight years ago and lives on a little ca-nal. He runs Tidewater Tours inc. and also started the nature Coast Birding & Wildlife Experience, a four-day annual event that spotlights the birds, wildlife and history of the area. what’s your best discovery? “My favorite place — i have many — is probably a tiny island

along the fringe of the remote coastal marsh called Mc-Clamory Key i bring ecotours to this site on a regu-lar basis. Here hun-dreds,.sometimes thousands, of birds gather on the high tide each day. along

with large numbers of common shore birds, there are usually some fairly rare birds, such as long-billed curlews, red knots, oyster catchers and several species of plovers.” Move-in advice “Think slow. don’t bother to rise early and go to town to get a jump-start on the day. You’ll be the only one there. if the car in front of you stops to talk to someone on the side of the road, don’t honk. Just wait for them to move, or go another way. You will probably see this same person later in the day at the mar-ket, the Jiffy store or at church.”

Isla Colón, PanamáFlip-flop quotient: 5 expats to lo-cals: 6:100 Houses available from $250,000 Population of main town, bocas del toro: 2,000 languages spo-ken: Spanish and English Percent who speak english: 50 get there from u.s. via Panamá City. isla Colón is a one-hour flight from Panamá City.

Closest hospital: bocas del toro Price of a soberana beer: from $0.65 ease of immigration: easy with capi-

tal investment, though the inventory

of titled (freehold) property is limited 411: visitpanama.com

the vibe The laid-back main island of Panamá’s Bocas del Toro archipelago, east of Panamá’s thin curve of belly, isla Colón has a few nice bars and restau-

rants..and..insane amounts of nature at your fingertips, both above and un-der the water. this could be you Bob and donna Black, origi-nally from Michi-gan, . .have. . l ived permanently in the Bocas del Toro ar-chipelago for five

years. They now live on isla Colón in an area called Big Creek, about three miles outside the town of Bocas del Toro.

what’s your best discovery? “The Mim-bitimbi River. We’ve taken two different hiking trips up the river, which is located in a rock basin. it flows through tunnels and caves and is just loaded with all types of wildlife. But you must be in good shape.” Move-in advice “don’t ship things from the states to Panamá. When we first moved, things were difficult to ob tain, but now there are several new stores in Panamá City, the city of david and even on isla Colón itself where you can purchase virtually everything you need to live.”

More best islands on page 100: Grand Cay-man; Gozo, Malta; Negros Oriental, Philippines; Carriacou, Grenada; Vieques, Puerto Rico

CurrEnt liStinG: three-bedroom, two-bath house with carport sur-rounded by ohia trees in a quiet Puna neighborhood (on the big island’s east coast) for $235,000. hawaiiinformation.com

CurrEnt liStinG: Six-bedroom house in a neighborhood in the suburbs of Clifton with ocean views in the dis-tance for $245,000. aisvg.com

CurrEnt liStinG: two-bedroom, 3,000-square-foot luxury house a stone’s throw from swimming and boat-ing off your beach; 10 minutes by car or boat to the town of bocas; $385,000. bocasdeltoro.net

CurrEnt liStinG: three-bedroom house, with wood floors in living area, ceramic tile in kitchen and baths, and a deck that overlooks Gulf waters to the east; $249,000. pelican-realty.com

b e s t i s l a n d s t o l i v E o n

CurrEnt liStinG: three-bedroom, two-bath house with wood- paneled ceiling and a spacious outdoor deck for $191,000. bountycentre.nf

(continued on page 100)

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Far left to right: Puna, big island; union island, St. vincent and the Grenadines; Cedar Key, Florida; isla Colón, Panamá; norfolk island, Australiab y A M y C A S S E l l A n D K E l l y l A C K

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best islands to live on (from page 69)

Grand Cayman Flip-flop quotient: 4 (average tem-

peratures in the 60s in winter) ex-pats to locals: 50:100 Houses avail-able from high $100,000s Population of main town, george town: 20,626

language spoken: English get there from u.s. nonstop Closest hospital: George town Price of a stingray beer: from $2.50 ease of immigration: easy

411: caymanislands.ky

the vibe Water is the focus of Grand Cayman, whether you’re boating, div-ing or walking along the beach. activ-ity is centered around famous seven

Mile Beach and in George Town, but wander to the East End for quiet. this could be you Melissa ladley moved from Richmond, Virginia to Grand Cayman in 2003 shortly after traveling there to

dive. she works in resort marketing and public relations for The Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman. she owns a house near seven Mile Beach. what’s your best discovery? “stingray City, a popular dive site and sandbar, can get crowded in the mornings. However, it’s simply magical in the evenings. You can take a boat out before sunset and it will likely just be you and the stingrays under the sky.” Move-in advice “Buy a boat if you can afford one. The freedom to explore and enjoy Cay-man’s waters is worth the investment.”

Gozo, Malta Flip-flop quotient: 3 (average 57 de-

grees in winter) ex-pats to locals: 8:100 (per a 1995 census) Houses available from mid $100,000s Popula-tion of main town, Victoria (also known as rabat): 6,414 languages spoken: Maltese, English and italian Percent who speak english: nearly 100 get there from u.s. via Malta. the ferry to

Gozo is a 25-minute trip from Malta. Closest hospital: victoria Price of

a Hopleaf beer: from $1.50 ease of immigration: easy with capital invest-ment 411: visitmalta.com

the vibe south of sicily, Malta’s smaller sister island Gozo has cliffs, red-colored beaches, an ancient town with a citadel dating to 1500 B.C. and numerous cafes.

This is sleepy Medi-terranean, but you can still get a hit of action just a ferry ride away on Malta.

this could be you alissa Cole moved to Gozo from Ware-ham, Massachusetts,

last year with her husband and daugh-ter. They live in the village of nadur, on Gozo’s east side. what’s your best dis-covery? “Besides the incredible scenery, having freshly baked Maltese bread ev-ery day feels like a luxury and costs the equivalent of 60 cents back home. local wine is another staple at $1.50 per bottle.”

Move-in advice “Plan your shopping around siesta (from noon to 4 p.m.) and sundays, when stores are closed. also, buy a pair of warm slippers. The homes are made of limestone and tile and are cooler than an insulated home made of wood.”

Negros Oriental, Philippines Flip-flop quotient: 3 (monsoon and ty-

phoon seasons) expats to locals: 1:1,000 Population of main town, dumaguete:

102,265 languages spoken: English, Cebuano and hiligaynon Percent who speak english: 90 get there from u.s. via Manila. From Manila it is a 70-minute flight to Dumaguete. Closest hospital: Dumaguete Price of a san Miguel beer: less than $1.00 ease of immigration: moderate 411: tourism.gov.ph

the vibe The eastern half of negros island in the central Philippines is called negros Oriental and is home to dum-aguete, a city with many universities and

a seaside promenade lined with cafes and art galleries. this could be you Georg Bender moved from Germany to negros Oriental in 2001. He lives in

dumaguete and works in sales and mar-keting at atlantis dive Resort. what’s your best discovery? “Besides the best macro diving you can imagine, a great lo-cal meal is kinilaw, marinated game fish.”

Move-in advice “stay for two years with no major financial commitment to see if you’re comfortable here.”

Carriacou, Grenada Flip-flop quotient: 5 expats to locals:

2:100 Houses available from $200,000 Population of main town, Hillsborough:

355 languages spoken: English with some Creole get there from u.s. via Grenada. Carriacou is a 20-minute flight from Grenada. Closest hospital: belair (above hillsborough) Price of a Carib beer: from $1.85 ease of immigration: moderate; you must live in Grenada for five years before you can apply for resi-dency 411: grenadagrenadines.com

the vibe Great beaches and reefs, yes, but the local Carriacou culture, which includes wooden boat building and

festivals such as Parang, celebrating one of the Caribbean’s oldest song forms, will make you want to stay. this could be you david Goldhill, originally from new York City, moved to Carriacou 23 years ago and now owns and manages Bayaleau Point Cottages. He lives in the village of Windward. what’s your best discovery? “sailing to the Tobago Cays

Marine Park in the same sort of locally built sailing craft that has been used here for 150 years, anchoring in azure waters by a white-sand beach, then swimming with

turtles before the reach back home for sunset.” Move-in advice “spend time here, meet locals and figure out your niche. There’s no need for people with certain qualifications, only for people with a passion for being here. if you have that passion, then draw from your resources and education to augment your neighbor’s life and thereby yours.”

Vieques, Puerto Rico Flip-flop quotient: 5 expats to locals:

8:100 (per a 2000 census) Houses avail-able from $295,000 Population of main town, isabel segunda: 2,000 languages spoken: Spanish and English Per-

cent who speak english: 50 get there from u.s. via San Juan, Puerto rico. vieques is a 20- to 30-minute flight from San Juan. Closest hospital: isabel Se-gunda Price of a Medalla light beer: from $1.50 411: gotopuertorico.com

the vibe This island off the east coast of Puerto Rico has fishing villages, a bioluminescent bay, a penchant for reggaetón, and is only a short trip from Old san Juan if the need for upscale nightlife and shopping comes call-ing. this could be you Gregg McKee from altoona, Pennsylvania, moved to Vieques two years ago and now owns a fly-fishing business called WildFly Charters. He lives in the Mambiche neighborhood up the hill from isabel

segunda. what’s your best discovery? “Eight miles east of Esperanza is a huge bay called Ensenada Honda that’s full of bon-efish that on most days will eat almost any fly we throw at

them.” Move-in advice “learn some spanish. Many of my neighbors speak English, but some do not. it doesn’t have to be perfect, but in everyday dealings, spanish is often seen as a re-spectful gesture on your part.”

CurrEnt liStinG: titled three-bed-room in vieques’ other main town, Esperanza, with ga-zebo and landscap-ing for $295,000. enchanted-isle.com/crowsnestrealty

CurrEnt liStinG: open-concept bungalow in need of tlC on a cliff overlooking the sea with a quarter-acre of land for $200,000. winrealtyonline.com

CurrEnt liStinG: three-bedroom, two-bath house with a fenced-in yard with fruit trees in West bay on a third of an acre for $214,000. remax.ky

CurrEnt liStinG: two-story stone townhouse (with a balcony and original tiles) in the village square of Kercem for $174,335. gozoprime.com

CurrEnt liStinG: Foreigners may not own land, only con-dos. Many choose to rent (starting at $400 per month). islands properties.com