IS:1267

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IS 1297 1992:r : 4 (Superseding IS 1268 : 1958

Indian Standard

HANDLOOM WORSTED RAFAL SHAWLS

AND LOHIS

( First Revision)

UDC 677’3’064’6 : 646’45 ( 083’75 ) ( 540 )

.

‘?.

0 BI S 1992

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG

(Reaffirmed 2003)

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Handlocm and Khadi Sectional Committee, TX 08

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard ( First Revision ) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after thedraft fir.alized by the Handlocm end Ktadi Sectional Committee had been approved by the TextileDivision Council.

This standard was first issued in 1958. It has now been revised in order to overcome certaindifficulties encountered by the handloom industry in its implementation. Following are theimpcrtant charges carried out while revising this standard:

4

b)

This standard earlier covered only handloom worsted rafal shawls, the handloom worstedlohis having been covered in IS I268 : 1958 ‘Handloom worsted lohis’. In this revision, inview of the end use of the material, IS 1268 : 1958 has been amalgamated with this standard

to cover both the shawls and the lohis in one standard.Only negative tolerances have been specified on ends/dm, picksldm and mass to ensureminimum desirable construction. There being no tolerance on positive side on theserequirements, it would provide flexibility to industry to adjust construction of the fabricdepending upon market demands.

c) Tolerances on length and width have been adopted from the instructions issued by theCentral Goverrment under the Trade and Merchandise Marks Act, 1958 ( 43 of 2958 ) asgiven in Notification No. S.O. 2937 dated 20 September 1962.

d) For determining the conformity of the shawls and lohis to the requirements laid down inthis standard, a provision has been incorporated to allow testing of specimens in prevailingatmospheric car ditions. However, in all cases of disputes, the specimens are to be testedafter conditioning in the standard atmospheric conditions.

e) Provision has been incorporated for agreement between the buyer and seller with respect tothe permissible number of defects in the cloth.]

This standard, ccnsequent upon\ the inclusion of the requirements of handloom worsted lohis in it,as menticned in para 2, item (a) above, supersedes IS 1268 : 1958.j

For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied. with,the final value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be roundedoff in accordance with IS 2 : 1960 ‘Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)‘. Thenumber of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of thespecified value in this standard.

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Indian Standard

IS 1267:1992

HANDLOOMWORSTEDRAFALSHAWLS

ANDLOHIS .( irst Revision )

1 SCOPE

1.1 his standard prescribes constructionalparticulars and other requirements for tenvarieties of handloom worsted rafal shawls andlohis.

1.2 This standard does not specify the general

appearance, feel, etc, of the material.

2 REFERENCES

The Indian Standards listed in Annex A arenecessary adjuncts to this standard.

3 ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS FORTESTING

Test specimens may be conditioned and testedin the prevailing atmosphere for determiningthe conformity of the material to this standard.

However, in all cases of disputes, the specimensshall be conditioned and tested in the standardatmosphere as specified in the referred IndianStandards on test methods.

4 MANUFACTURE

4.1 Yarn

4 1.1 The worsted yarn used in the manufactureof the cloth shall be free from admixture ofnon-woollen fibre and shall be such that thecloth produced complies with the requirementsof this standard.

4.1.2 The approximate count of yarn is givenin Table I for guidance.

4.2 Cloth

4.2.1 The cloth shall be of 2/2 twill weave.

4.2.2 The cloth shall be clean scoured, and freefrom grease, soap, filling or any other admixturewhich would give it fictitious weight, substanceor firmness.

4.2.3 The transverse ends of the shawls andlohis shall be finished off with a fringe ofapproximately 65 mm length,

5 REQUIRIEMENTS5.1 The cloth shall conform to the requirementsspecified in Table 1.

Table 1 Constructional Particolars and Breaking Load Requirements for HandloomWorsted Rafal Shawls and Lobis

( Clauses 4.1.2 and 5.1 >

Variety 1)Approximate Count of Yarn Ends/dm Picks/dm MassNo. Universal Count

Breaking Load on

( Worsted Count )15 X 20 cm Strips

r----~----~r-_____h_--_---~ Weft-

Warp WeftWarp-

way way

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (2 ‘2

1 18 tex x 2 14 tex 170 150 “1’8:’ 780( 2/48s )

660

2 18 tex x( 64s 1

2

( double )

18 tex x 2 180 140 125 800 620

( 21489 ) ( 2148s )3 14 tex x 2 14 tex 280 250 120 880 540

( 2164s ) ( 64s )4 18tex x 2 18 tex x 2 220 190 175 830 660

( 2148s )5 18 tex x 2

( 2/48s )18 tex x 2 250 210 195 880

( 2148s )

680

6 18 ex x 2( 2148s 1

28 tex x 2 165 150 165 780 630

( 2148s )7 28 tex x

( 2132s )2 40 tex x 2 140 120 175 780 580

( 2132~ )8 40 tex x 2

( 2122s )59 tex 130 160 235 1 060 660

9( 2122s ) ( 15s)

40 tex x 2 42 tex 140 170 210 1200 800

( 2,22s 110 40 tex x( 18s )

2 40 tex x 2 130 140 230 1 060 1200

( 2122s ) ( 2122s )

Tolerance, - - -5 -5 -5percent

-5 on average value and-15 on individual reading

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IS 1267 : 1992

5.2 The cloth shall also conform to the require-

ments specified in Table 2.

Table 2 Other Requirements for HandloomWorsted Rafal Shawls and Lobis

Sl Characteristic Require- Method ofNo. ment Test

(1) (2) (3) (4)i) Relaxation shrinkage 4 IS 665 : 1989

percent, Max

ii) pH value of aqueous 5.0 to 7.5 IS 1390 : 1983extract

iii) Colour fastness:

a) Light 4 or better IS 686 : 1985

IS 24:: : 1985b) Washing, Test 1: IS 687 : 1979

1) Change in colour 4 or better

2) Staining on fabric 4 or better

c) Dry cleaning: IS 4802 : 19881) Change in colour 4 or better

2) Staining on fabric 4 or better

5.3 Dimensions

The length and width of the cloth, whendetermined in accordance with IS 1954 : 1990,shall be as agreed to between the buyer and theseller or as declared by the seller subject to thetolerances specified in the Government of India,Ministry of Commerce and Industry NotificationNo. S.O. 2937 dated 20 September 1962 issued

under the Trade and Merchandise Marks Act,1958 ( 43 of 1958 ) ( see Annex C ).

5.4 Sealed Sample

If in order to illustrate or specify the indetermin-able characteristics, such as general appearance,feel and shade, a sample has been agreed uponand sealed, the supply shall be in conformitywith the sample in such respects.

The custody of the sealed sample shall be amatter of prior agreement between the buyerand the seller.

6 VISUAL INSPECTION

6.1 The cloth when visually inspected shouldbe free from the major flaws listed in Annex D.The number of permissible major flaws per unitlength or per piece shall be as agreed to betweenthe buyer and the seller.

6.2 For details of the flaws mentioned in 6.1,reference may be made to IS 4125 : 1987.

7 MARKING

7.1 The shawls and lohis shall be suitablymarked with the following information:

a) Name of the material and variety No,

b) Length ( cm ) and width ( cm ), and

7.1.1 The shawls and lohis may also be markedwith the Standard Mark.

8 PACKING

Unless otherwise agreed upon by the buyer and

seller, the shawls and lohis shall be packed inbales or cases in accordance with the procedurelaid down in IS 32 : 1971 or IS 741 : 1971.

9 SAMPLING

9.1 Lot

The quantity of shawls and lohis of a particularvariety delivered to one buyer against onedespatch note shall constitute a lot.

9.2 The conformity of a lot to the variousrequirements specified in the standard shall be

determined on the basis of tests carried out onthe samples selected from it.

9.3 Unless otherwise agreed, the number ofpieces to be selected at random for inspectionshall be in accordance with Table 3. Forrandom selection of samples, IS 4905 : 1968 maybe followed.

Table ‘3 Sample Size and Permissible Nomberof Non-conforming Pieces

Lot Size Sample PermissibleSize Number of

Sub;;;;ple

. Non-gzf$ming

(1) (2) (3) (4)Up to 25 3 0 2

26 to 50 5 0 2

51 to 150 8 0 3151 to 300 13 1 3

301 to 500 20 1 5.501 to 1 000 32 2 5

1 001 and above 50 3 8

9.4 Number of Samples and Criteria forConformity

The number of samples to be drawn and thecriteria for conformity of the material for variouscharacteristics shall be as follows:

Characteristics Number

ofSampIes

Ends, picks, Accordingmass, length, to co1 2 ofwidth and visual Table 3inspection

Relaxation Accordingshrinkage, pH to co1 4 ofvalue of aqueous Table 3extracts, colour

Criterion forConformity

Number of non-conforming piecesshall not exceedthe correspondingnumber given inco1 3 of Table 3

All the piecesshall meet therequirement

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IS 1267 : 1992

ANNEX A

( Clause 2 )

LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS

IS No.

32: 1971

665 : 1989

686 : 1985

687 : 1979

741 : 1971

1390 : 1980

1954 : 1990

Title IS No.

Code for seaworthy packaging of 1963 : 1981woollen and worsted yarn andcloth ( second revision )

Textiles - Determination of 1964 : 1970dimensional changes of fabricscontaining wool on soaking inwater ( first revision )

Methods for determination of 1969 : 1985colour fastness of textile materialsto daylight ( first revision >

Method for determination ofcolour fastness of textile mate-

rials to washing: Test 1 ( second2454 : 1985

revision >

Code for inland packaging ofwoollen and worsted yarn andcloth ( Jirst revision ) 4125 : 1987

Methods for determination .ofpH value of aqueous extracts of 4802 : 1988textile materials ( first revision )

Methods for determination oflength and width of wovenfabrics ( second revision > 4905 : 1968

Ti

ANNEX B

( Table 1 )

Tttle

Methods for determination ofthreads per unit length in wovenfabrics ( second revision >

Methods for determination ofweight per square metre andweight per linear metre of fabrics( first revision 3

Methods for determinatron ofbreaking load and elongation ofwoven textile fabrics ( secondrevision )

Methods for determination ofcolour fastness of textile mate-rials to artificial light ( xenonlamp ) ( first revision )

Glossary of terms pertaining todefects in fabrics ( Jirsl revision )

Method for determination ofcolour fastness of textile mate-rials to dryrevision )

cleaning ( $rsl

Methods for random sampling

METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF MASS OF FABRIC

B-l Cut four specimens of 100 mm X 100 mm from the desiccator and immediately determineeach from a sample. Condition all the speci- their collective mass in a weighing balance tomens in a desiccator charged with saturated the nearest milligram.solution of sodium nitrate at 27 f 2°C for apericd of 24 hours. Remove all the specimens B-2 Calculate mass of the fabric in g/m2.

ANNEX C( CZuuse 5.3 )

EXTRACTS FROM THE GOVERNMENT OF INDIA, MINISTRY OF COMMERCE ANDINDUSTRY (TRADE AND MERCHANDISE MARKS ) NOTIFICATION

NO. SO. 2937 DATED 20 SEPTEMBER 1962

1 A trade description of length and width onwool len ( including shoddy ) and worsted

fabricated items like blankets, shawls, scarvesor other articles of a similar kind:

i)

ii)

The actual length of the piece shall not

be less than the stamped length by morethan 1 percent, and

The permissible limits of variation inrespect of trade description of width shall

woollen and worsted piece goods [ seeitem (2) below I.

2 A trade description of width stamped onworsted, woollen and shoddy piece goods:

2 In pieces of worsted fabric, the stampedwidth shall not be greater or less than theactual, width provided that the variationin width at any point is not more than 2

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S 1267 : 1 992

percent and on average not more than greater or less than the actual width,1’5 percent; and provided that the variation in width at

ii) In pieces of woollen and shoddy piece any point is not more than 3 percent and

goods, the stamped width shall not be on average not more than 2 percent.

1

2

One or more ends missing in the body of thematerial throughout its length; more thanthree ends missing at a place and runningover 60 cm, or prominently noticeable doubleends running throughout the piece.

Undressed snarls noticeable over a length

exceeding 5 percent of the length of thepiece.

3

4

5

6

Smash definitely rupturing the texture ofthe fabric.

Hole, cut or tear.

Read marks prominently noticeable over alength exceeding 5 percent of the piece.

Defective or damaged selvedge noticeableover a length exceeding 5 percent of the lengthof the piece.

Skewing of weft.

Weft crack or two or more missing picksacross the width of the fabric.

Warp or weft bar due to difference in rawmaterial, count, twist, lustre, colour, shade

ANNEX D

( Ckwse 6.1 )

LIST OF MAJOR FLAWS

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

33

More than two adjacent ends runningparallel, broken or missing and extendingbeyond 10 cm.

Noticeable warp or weft float in the body ofthe fabric.

Noticeable oil or other stain in the fabric.

Oily weft in the fabric.

Prominently noticeable slub.

Conspicuous broken pattern.

Gout due to foreign matter, usually lint ofwaste woven into the fabric.

Prominent selvedge defect.

Significant shading or listing having a

gradual change in tone or depth of shade( excluding in selvedge ).

Coloured flecks.

Blurred or dark patch.

Patchy, streaky or uneven dyeing.

Dye bar.or spacing of adjacent groups of yarns AL( starting mark ). 23 Fuzzy appearance.

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Standard Mark

The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the provisions of the Bureau of Indian

Standards Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. The Standard Mark onproducts covered by an Indian Standard conveys the assurance that they have been produced

to comply with the requirements of that standard under a well defined system of inspection,

testing and quality control which is devised and supervised by BIS and operated by the pro-

ducer. Standard marked products are also continuously checked by BIS for conformity to

that standard as a further safeguard. Details of conditions under which a licence for the use

of the Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from

the Bureau of Indian Standards.

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IS:1267

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