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2 Special | Las Fallas

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Fallas is celebrated all through the Valencian Community. To enjoy true Valencian spirit, this is the time to go out, soak up the energy and enjoy the spectacle. Many towns around the Community join in this festival (which offi cially starts in February, but the main dates are 15-19

March), including the smaller ones. To make the most of it, get out into the Community and choose a few towns to see their individual take on the event.

A popular belief is that fallas became a tradition when carpenters started bringing out their old furniture, which they then burned in the street as a symbol of purifi cation and in honour of their patron saint. Whilst there is some truth to this story, it seems to have changed over time almost as much as today's celebrations.

During the 18th century, carpenters used to burn their ‘parots’ (old structures which they hung candles from to see whilst they were working) in Spring as they were not necessary due to the days being longer. Over the years, people began dressing the parots up as people or satirical statues to attract the attention of their neighbours before burning them. Children went from door to door for una alfombra vieja (an old rug), which was a song they sang to get people to give them any old furniture that they might have to add to their parots. These materials made up the fi rst fi gures (ninots or, nowadays, fallas). At some stage the church got involved and tied the burning in with the celebration of the patron saint of carpenters: San José.

A lot has changed since these humble origins. Nowadays, the fallas consist of a wooden structure surrounded by moulded polystyrene and card. However, the theme of purifi cation through burning is still resonant, albeit the fallas themselves tend to focus more on political satire. The burning (or quema) of these gigantic beasts symbolises a hopeful future. Each group (Casa Faller) raises money throughout the year for their particular fallathrough various fundraisers and social events.

Children also have their fallas infantiles which tend not to deal with anything political, but, instead, have a much more playful tone. Prizes are awarded across various diff erent categories and are sought after for the prestige and recognition. Prizes are dished out on 16 and 17 March.

Fallas is generally considered the ‘carnival of Valencia’ and, for those who experience it, it’s not diffi cult to see why. The celebration itself is steeped in history, legend, religion, music, gunpowder, fi reworks, and, for many, the spirit of Valencia itself.

120The number of decibels of a normal mascletá.

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La planta begins on 15 March, which is when the huge structures are erected (although some have to be begun weeks before). If any falla is not up before the judges arrive, then they are not entered into the competition. Given the money and time invested, there is almost always a frantic rush to apply fi nishing touches. Throughout the year, teams of professional artists, sculptors and constructors are employed to build and design the fallas.

The history of ‘La Virgen’ goes back to 1409, when a priest, having witnessed a lynching of a young boy with a mental illness, decided to found a hospital for the destitute, mentally ill, and abandoned children. The hospital was called ‘Nuestra Señora de los locos e inocentes’. In 1414, three boys proclaimed that they could make the virgin appear in exchange for food and beds. After four days, nothing had appeared so the door to where they were staying (La Ermita) was forced open. Behind the door was ‘La Virgen’; the boys were nowhere to be found. Legend has it that ‘La Virgen’ turned them into angels. Join the crowds to witness La Ofrenda (the off ering) on 17 & 18 March in La Plaza de la Virgen and watch, open-mouthed, as the fl owers are gradually planted onto the wooden structure of the virgin herself. This is worth the visit for merely the aroma of fl owers and the buzz of people pushing and pulling to catch a glimpse of what’s going on.

On 27 February you may witness La Despertà (the wake-up), when bands and fi reworks make their way through the streets with the aim of waking any sleepers up.

On 18 March is La Nit Del Foc (The Night of Fire), which should not be confused with the quema when the fallas are actually burnt. Getting down to the river, specifi cally between El Puente de Flores and El Puente de Aragón is of paramount importance. Due to the size of this particular fi reworks display, you’ll probably see or hear it from miles around whether

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you want to or not. What you’ll be treated to is around 25-30 minutes of breathtaking fi reworks.

On the night of 19 March is La Cremà (La Quema). The burning begins at about 11pm and always fi nishes in La Plaza del Ayuntamiento, which is not included in the competition because it is paid for by the citizens of Valencia. One by one, the fallas are burned down. This is carefully coordinated with fi remen called in from many of the surrounding villages. A comforting sense of control amidst a city which appears to be spiralling out of it. Rather than run around like a maniac trying to see all of the burnings (an impossible task, trust me!), I’d recommend fi nding a falla that you particularly like or an area with a few within walking distance and just enjoy the show.

If you get the chance, get down to the Russafa area in Valencia to see some of the most extravagant street lighting you’re likely to ever experience. The sheer heat they generate make Russafa a popular destination for people during colder years. Expect to go everywhere on foot as, during the day, the city is bursting with people. This, coupled with the parades of falleros and falleras heading to make their ofrenda to the virgin, make getting across the city an actual miracle in itself. From the beginning of March you can experience a mascletá – a stunningly loud coordination of fi reworks that has attracted

famous pyrotechnicians from all over the world to compete each year to achieve the highest decibel count – at 2 o’clock in La Plaza de Ayuntamiento. These are not for the faint-hearted and can also be watched on Canal Nou, where a helpful decibel counter is provided.

For the full timetable of Las Fallas in Valencia, see Page 8. For more details on what's happening in the Community, contact the tourist information.

FEBRUARY

27/02 (Sunday)7.30am. Despertà C/ La Paz to Plaza del Ayuntamiento.12.30pm. Musical parade. Plaza de la Virgen to Plaza del Ayuntamiento followed by the Pasodoble El Fallero (the Fallas anthem)2pm. Mascletà (fi reworks) in Plaza del Ayuntamiento.8pm. Cridà. The offi cial opening of Fallas at Serranos Towers with music and fi reworks displays, and the Fallera Mayor of Valencia welcomes you.

MARCH 1/03-19/032pm Daily Mascletà in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.

5/03 (Saturday) 6pm. Great Mascletà. Las Arenas beach b/w Las Arenas Hotel and the Red Cross First Aid Post.10.30pm. Ninot Parade. C/ Marques de Sotelo to Plaza del Ayuntamiento, to C/ Marqués de Sotelo. Mascletà.

16/03 (Sunday) 5.30pm. Children’s Ninot Parade. La Glorieta, C/ La Paz, C/ San Vicente, Plaza del Ayuntamiento, C/ Marqués de Sotelo. Mascletà.

12/03 (Saturday) 11pm. International Folk Parade around Plaza del Ayuntamiento. Mascletà.

14/03 (Monday) 3pm. Closing ceremony of the Children's Ninot Exhibition (children's fi gurines).

15/03 (Tuesday) 8am. Plantà (setting up) of Fallas Infantiles (children's).6pm. Closing ceremony of the Ninot Exhibition (adult's).Midnight. Fireworks on the Paseo de La Alameda (between Exposición Bridge and Las Flores Bridge).

16/03 (Wednesday) 8am. Plantà of all Fallas (adult's).4.30pm. Plaza del Ayuntamiento. Awards Ceremony for Children's Fallas.1am. Fireworks on the Paseo de La Alameda (between Exposición Bridge and Las Flores Bridge).

17/03 (Thursday) 9.30am. Plaza del Ayuntamiento. Awards Ceremony for Fallas.4pm. 1st day of the Flower off ering to our Lady of the Forsaken (Virgen de los Desamparados). C/ La Paz and C/ San Vicente. Thousands of falleros parade to Plaza de la Virgen until around 1am.1am. Fireworks on the Paseo de La Alameda (between Exposición Bridge and Las Flores Bridge).

18/03 (Friday) 11am. Homage to the poet Maximilano Thous, at his monument at C/ Sagunto & C/ Maximilano Thous followed by a Mascletà.

18/03 (Friday cont...) Midday. Homage to the Maestro Serrano, at his monument in Ave. Reino de Valencia. Followed by a Mascletà.4pm. 2nd day of the Flower off ering as 17/03. 1.30am. Nit de Foc, the biggest fi reworks display in Fallas. On Paseo de la Alameda (between Exposición Bridge and Las Flores Bridge).

19/03 (Saturday & Sunday

morning) 11am. Puente de San José (Saint Joseph Bridge). Flower off ering by the Fallas Queens followed by a Mascletà.Midday. Mass in honour of the Patriarch St. Joseph. Valencia Cathedral, Plaza de La Reina. 7pm. Cabalgata del Fuego (Fire Parade) along Colon Street and a fi rework show in Plaza Porta de la Mar.10pm. Cremà or burning of the Children's Fallas.10.30pm. Cremà of the winning Children's Fallas. 11pm. Cremà of the Children's Falla in Plaza del Ayuntamiento.Midnight. Cremà all the remaining Fallas.12.30am. Cremà of the winning adult Falla.1am. Aerial fi reworks in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento and Cremà of the Plaza del Ayuntamiento Falla.

4 Valencia Fallas timetable

The dates and times supplied are correct at time of print. However, there is some discrepancy on the

start time of some events. For any event, please check on the offi cial sites or at the tourist information

for further details. www.fallas.com and www.fallasfromvalencia.com.