Introd Textile

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INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES

Introduction to Textiles

1.0 Introduction to important of textiles. Different types of textile material

and their end users.

2.0 Brief idea about conversion of fibre bto fabric. Basic ideas about

spinning, weaving, knitting, non-wovwn and other fabric manufacturing

processes.

3.0 Overview of textile chemical processing. Brief ideas about bleaching,

dyeing, printing and finishing.

4.0 Overview of garment and fashion design and technology.

5.0 Career planning and employment opportunities in textile / related fields.

6.0 Issue related to various sectors of textile industry.

NKS, ATI, GHY Page 1


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Defi nitions of some important Terms

Textile:The word textile comes from the Latin word, Textile, and the French word Texere which means

pertaining to weaving of the woven fabrics, woven or capable of being woven; formed by weaving.Hence the textiles are the materials that can be converted into yarns and fabrics of any nature or character.

Fibre :It is one of the delicate, hair-like portions of the tissues of a plant or animal.A fibre is characterised by having a length of at least hundred times its diameter.

Textile Fibre:Textile fibres are those fibres which can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by interlacing or

interlooping in a variety of machines including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, bonding, etc.Technically the textile fibres must have a spinnable length.

Staple :It is the name given to the fibres of lemited length. Staple fibres can renge from about 1cm to manycentimeters in length (but not so long enough to be classified as filament). To make a continuous length of

yarn , staple fibres are twisted together.

Filament :It is the name given to a fibre of continuous length, that is to say, it is long enough to be used in a fabric

without increasing its length by adding other fibres to it.

Yarn :It is an assemblage of fibres twisted or laid together to form continuous strand suitable for use in weaving,

knitting, etc.Yarn can consist of either staple fibres, filaments or combination of the two.

CHARACTERISTICS OF A GOOD TEXTILE FIBRE

A textile fibre should have two important characteristics : i) Essential Properties andii) Desirable Properties.

Essential Properties:a) Length : Length is an important parameter which determines the usefulness of a textile fibre. The

length of the fibre should not be less than 5mm. The most useful fibre should have length to breathratio of more than 100:1.

Cotton = 1400, Wool = 3000, Silk = 33x10 6

b) Strength : A fibre for textiles must be strong. Its inherent high strength enables it to withstand therigourous of the spinning (yarn or thread making), and weaving processes and to provide the desiredstrength in the woven cloth.



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Normally strength of a textile fibre is measured in tension when the fibre is loaded along its long axis andis designed as tensile strength. The unit of tensile strength is expressed in terms grams per denier or grams per tex unit.

c)Cohesiveness : It is the property of an individual fibre by virtue of which the fibres hold on to oneanother when the fibres are spun into yarn. This action is usually brought about by the high degree of frictional resistance offered by the surface of the fibres to separate one from another.

Cotton = irregular rough surface / convolution.Wool = scaler (saw-toothed) surface,Synthetic = introduction of crimp.

d) Flexibility : The fibre should be sufficiently pliable. Flexibility permits the fibres to be duly spun andwoven and gives to the textile fabric its unique folding and draping characteristics. If the fibre isstiffer and wiry, it is less adaptable for textile use for, exqmple, glass and metallic fibres.

Desirable Properties :a) Fineness : Fineness of a fibre is a relative measure of size, diameter, linear density or weight per unit

length expressed in a variety of units. Fineness has much role to determine properties andcharacteristics of particular fibre.

Natural fibre vary in fineness more widely than manmade fibres, because in case of man-made fibres thediameter can be controlled vry accurately during their manufacture.Fineness of cotton fibre is expressed in micrograms per inch or per centimeter.(1 microgram = 10 6 gms.,1 micron = 10 -4 cm).

b) Resilience : Resilience is the springing back of recovery of a fibre when it is released from adeformation. The reistance to compression, flexing, or torsion varies from fibre to fibre. Some fibreshave a natural tendency to return to their original condition when any of the above mentioned forcesis applied, a property known as resilience.

c) Uniformity : Uniformity means the evenness of the individual fibres in length and diameter. Textilefibres should possess uniformity in the thickness and length of fibre. A fibre possessing this propertycan produce reasonably even thread. This is also imortant in connection with the strength of theresulting yarn. The more uniform the yarn the stronger the yarn.

d) Porosity : Porosity can be defined as the ratio of the volume of air contained within the boundariesof the material to the total volume of a solid plua air or void, expressed percentage.

Porosity facilitates the absorption of moisture, liquid lubricants, dyes, oils and steams by the fibres so asto thoroughly permeate the fibre. Porosity in a fibre is important in wet processing. In general naturalfibre have higher porosity than synthetic fibres.

e) Lusture : Natural lusture enhances the value of textile fibre especially of natural fibres. For example,the natural lusture of the silk gave it for a long time distinct advantage over the other textile fibres,and experiments were constantly made to improve the lusture of those fibres which were naturallydull.



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Properties :Physical:

Staple length- 0.1 inchDiameter- 12 micronMoisture regain- highly hygroscopic, 12-14% at standard conditionStrength 3.5-7 gpd

Chemical:Dilute organic acid has no reaction at cold. With strong acids at boil hydrocellulose is formed.Strong alkalis degrade strength.More resistance to microbiological attack than cotton.Very good insulator of heat and electricity.

Uses :Widely used for transporting and storage of products

Due to cheap, strong, durable, non-slip nature low breaking elongation jute is ideally suitable for racksand bales for packaging purposeIn woven carpets, geo-textiles, and filter, mats used as warp , weft or pile.As cordage in domestic ropes, twines etcJute waste is used as stiffer in seatsIn furnishing and curtain fabric.In bleached with wool to provide cheap woven apparel fabrics.

FLAXIntroduction :

Annual plantMaximum height of 100cmBast fibre

Linen fibre is obtained from the outer cover of the flax plant.Stiff in nature.


Able to absorb and desorbs water (10-12% M.R) rapidly

S.L = 6-40 inchAverage dia.= 11-20 micronYellowish to grey colour.

Strength= 4.8 6.0 gpd (20% strength when wet than dry).

Chemical:

High resistance to biological attack. It is partly like jute and partly similar to cotton.

Uses :

As table cloths, napkins, towels, sail cloth, fishing lines, tent fabric, sewing thread, pillow covers, sheets anddecorative coverings.



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Linen fibre thread is used for stitching aircraft and railway carriage, upholstery, carpet, suitcase, life belts,tarpaulins, footballs, and cricket balls.Waste flax fibre can be pulped and made into high grade high strength bank-note, cigarette and writing papers.

RAMIEIntroduction :

Vegetable origin bast fibreMulti-cellular fibre4 6 feet heightGrown chiefly in India, China and neighbouring country.Chinese variety often known as China grass


Coarse, strongest and durable of all vegetable fibres.Cell length: 40-45 cm, diameter: 0.04-.06 mmStiff with silky natureStrength- 5.33-7.4gpd, wet strength is 30-40% more than dry strength

Chemical:

Unshrinkable and highly resistant to biological attack.Cold and warm weak mineral acids have no effect on fibre whereas dilute hot alkali, there is little loss of fibre.

Uses :

Mainly used to make ropes, strings and fishing nets, sail cloths, sacks, and carpets and paper making.In China it is used for making grass cloth and white summer cloth.

SILK Introduction :

Discovered in ancient Chineese.Queen of the fibres

Chief producing countries: China, India, USSR, Japan, Italy and France etc.Two major varieties of silk: cultivated (mulberry silk) and wild silk(Tussar, Muga, Eri).It is the only natural filament fibre.

A cocoon contain about 2700-4500mts of continuous filament, only approximately 900mts suitable for filament silk.Fibroin is the main composition and sericine is the gummy substance present in silk.


Consists of double fibre strand.

Thickness is about 0.00054 - 0.0018 inch.Colour and lustre: yellowish in colour and having bright lustre.Strength: exceptionally strong having tensile strength of 2.5 -5.0 gpd.



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Moisture regain 11%.Elongation 10-25%.

Chemical:

Effect of light: gets weakened.Effect of heat: begins to yellow. Above 330 F disintegrates.Effect of water: temporarily loss of strength upto 10-25%.Effect of acids: Light mineral acids(sulphuric acid, hydrochloric acid) do not injure even at boil, butconcentrated acids destroy the silk.Effect of alkalis: alkalies weaken silk, strong alkalies gets damaged.

Effect of mildew: slightly attacked by moth and mildew.

Uses :Strong, an elastic and resilient properties together with fineness, high degree of lustre, softness and superb drapeenables silk to be convert into many beautiful types of fabrics:

Apparel : dresses, blouses, skirts, jackets, sarees, scarves, ties etc.Home fashion: curtains, draperies, upholstery (voil, chiffon, georgette, brocade, velvet etc.).

WOOL

INTRODUCTION :Mesopotamia is the birth place of the wool.

Australia produces fine wool(marino) + Newzealand 40%, USSR -18%, Argentina -7%.

Main protein- keratin(protein):33% (a giant molecule composed of a number of -amino acids).

Wool is the only fibre containing sulphur, its chemical composition C,N,O & S.


Average length: 1-3 inches in woollen, 3-8 inches in worsted.(Shorter fibres are used chiefly inwoollens and the longer ones are used primarily in worsted)Dia.- 0.001-0.003 cm in fine; 0.001-0.007cm in carpet wool.Colour: white or light cream, but some breeds may have brown and black colour.Tenacity: 1-1.8gpd.

It has a natural crimp Naturally elastic and resilienceMany unique properties: rapid wrinkle recovery, durability, bulk, loft, warmth and resistance toabrasion.It has felting property.

Chemical:Easily absorb up to 30% of its weight without feeling damp or clammy.It resists flame without chemical treatment

Effect of heat: heating in water or steam for some time would make wool lose its strength.Effect of acids: decompose completely in hot concentrated sulphuric acid.

Effect of alkalis: strong alkalis attack wool and dissolve it very rapidly.Effect of insect and microorganism: insects cause an immense damage to wool and woollen products.



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Uses :Wool fibre can be processed both on woollen system and worsted system. So depending on the types of yarn its uses

can be differed.

Resilience, bulk and ease in handling make it the most appropriate in knitting goods.Mens and womens suitings, overcoat, sweater, upholstery fabric and blankets.

COIR Introduction :

Natural, cellulosic base, vegetable origin, fruit fibre.Obtained from the shell of the coconut.

Properties :

Fibre length: 3-25cmTenacity: 1.2-1.4gpd.Extension at break: 22-35%

Uses :For upholstery, cordage, brushes, mats, carpets, ropes, packing material for thermal insulation, stiffing for cushions, and mattresses which provide more comfort on being rubberised.

POLYESTER

Introduction:

PET- PolyEthylene Tere-phthalateRaw Material: DMT (Dimethyl Terephthalate) / Terephthalic AcidDiscovered In : 1941, by J.R Whinfield and J.J. Dickson of USACommercial Production in 1950Trade Name: Terene/Futura(India), Terylene(UK), Dacron(USA),

Properties:Physical:

Tenacity: 2.56 gpd (normal), 7-9 (High tenacity),Moisture Regain: 0.4%

Elongation at Break: Normal- 15-20%, High Tenacity- 7-12%Elastic Recovery: 97 at 2% elongation, 80 at 8% elongation.Hot Air Shrinkage: 3% at 100 C while shrinkage in boiling water is 6%.Static and pilling problem

Abrasion Resistance: High but less compared to NylonChemical:

Strong acids and alkalies attack PET fibres and weaken them by hydrolysisPET is resistant to normal laundering chemicals and is highly resistant to pest and microorganism attack.Excellent heat setting properties.



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Uses :Polyester fibres are extensively used as a filament or as a staple fibre or in blends with cellulosic fibres, woolor other fibres for apparel of all types like dresses, sportswear, suits, shirts, childrens wear, pants etc.

The fibre is also used in home furnishing: curtains, draperies, floor coverings etc, and in industrial fabricslike tyre-cord, ropes, threads, conveyor belts, fire fighting hose etc.

POLYAMIDEIntroduction :

First manmade organic textile fibre wholly from raw materials from the mineral kingdom (coal, air, andwater)

Nylon contains atoms of C, H, O, and N.

Different nylons are depending on the number of carbon atoms present in the molecule of starting materials.Ex.- Nylon 6.6 ( Hexamethylene diamine : 6 carbon atom per molecule- H 2 N(CH 2)6 NH 2

+ Adipic acid: : 6 carbon atom per molecule- HOOC(CH 2)4COOH Nylon 6 (caprolactum)

Properties :Light weightEasy to washGood drapeabilityGood abrasion resistant

High strength and modulus(indicate great extensibility and vice versa)Fast drying, low moisture absorbencyGood wear resistance

Low densityResistance to damage from oil, dilute acid (mineral) and alkalis

Excellent resistant to most organic solvents

Disadvantages :Static and pilling can be a problem

Poor resistance to continuous sunlight.

Major End-uses:

Apparel:Swimwear, sportswear, foundation garments, blouses, pants, jackets, skirts, childrens wear etc.Home Fashions:Carpets, rugs curtains, upholstery, draperies, bedspreads etc.

Industrial :

Tyre cords, life vests, umbrellas, tents, sleeping bags, tooth brushes, gloves, fishing nets etc.

Automotive furniture and others:



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Bearings, slides, door handles, locks, hangers, chairs, combs, film sheet and many defence relatedapplications.

ACRYLIC

Introduction :First produced in 1948Trade name: Orlon, Darlon, Acrylon, Indacryl, Suprecryl

Acrian, Creslon, Zefran etc.Polyvinyl derivativesVinyl fibresAcrylonitrile is the main raw materials(at least 85% plus no more than 15% copolymer)Acrylic fibre manufactured by different producers i.e. vary over a wide range.


Moisture regain: 15%Elongation at break: 20-50%Elastic recovery: 90-95% at 1% elongation, 50% at 10% elongation

Light weight, soft, warm with a wool like.Dyes to bright colour with excellent fastnessGood resiliency, retains shape, resist shrinkage & wrinkles.

Chemical:

Stable in dilute acid & alkali but attacked by concentrated acid / alkali.Resistant to attack by moth, insects and micro-organism.Superior resistance to sunlight degradation.

Disadvantages:Static and pilling can be a problem.

Uses :Acrylic fibres have replaced wool in many major applications, especially in hand knitting and hosierygarments.

For making knitwears, sportswear, blankets, flocked velvets and simulated fur fabrics, dress materials andsuitings, wigs, childrens wear, swim-suits, pullovers, draperies, furnishings and industrial fabrics.In carpets it is widely used for providing a heavy and durable fabrics as it gives good photostability, goodtexture retention, resistance to staining, good elastic recovery and even more easy cleaning.

Some Facts:A single wool fibre can sustain a dead weight of 15-30 grams ( silk- 5-20 gms)

Strength Rank: Nylon: 1 st Rank Silk: 2 nd

Wool: 3 rd For Major Textile fibres OnlyRayon: 4 th

Cotton: 5 th



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BASIC IDEAS OF SPINNINGYarn Manufacturing Process

STAPLE YARNRing Spinning (conventional)Open end spinningFriction spinning (DREF_II)Self twist spinning (wool and wool like fabric)Electrostatic spinningVortex spinningAirjet spinningTwistless spinning

FILAMENT SPINNINGWet SpinningDry Spinning

Melt Spinning

NEW SPINNINGAerodynamic Spinning

Untwisted multifilament cores covered with twisted and entangled staple fibre.

Ring Spinning ( for cotton fibre)

Blow room(Lap)

Carding (Sliver)

Combing (Sliver)

Draw Frame (Sliver)



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Speed Frame (Roving)

Ring Frame (Yarn)

BLOW ROOM

Functions of Blow Room:

Opening : To reduce the hard pressed bales of cotton to the smallest possible tuft size.

Cleaning : To remove the maximum possible trash and foreign matters with least possible amount of lint lossand damage to fibres.

Blending : To blend the different cottons in the mix thoroughly in order to get consistently uniform yarnquality.Lap formation : To produce even, uniform and compact laps suitable for carding.

These functions are accomplished through a series of continuous series of stages. The type and no of machines in a blowroom and their sequence depend upon the kind of cotton or fibre which is to be processed.

Opening M/Cs:Hoper Bale Breaker, Hoper Feeder, Vertical Opener, Porcupine Opener, 3-Bladed Beater, Krishner Beater, SRRL Opener,Shirley Opener, ERM Cleaner.

For Medium Grade Cotton: Sequence of Machineries in blow room

Bale Opener Blender Hopper Feeder Porcupine Opener Crighton Opener Hoper Feeder Porcupine

Hopper Feeder with reserve feed and deliveryOpener Krishner Beater Scutcher & Lap former

Hopper Feeder with reserve feed and delivery

CARDING

The initial process of arranging the fibres in a parallel fashion is known as carding. Hence, the objects of the cardingmachines are as follows:-

To open and loosen the fibres more completely, even to individual fibres.To clean the cotton further by removing dirt, sand, leaf, neps, short fibres, left in cotton by the blow roommachinery.To convert the lap into a round strand of loose, soft cotton known as the sliver.



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COMBING

When the fibres is intended for fine yarns , the card sliver is put through an additional straightening called combing. Thatmeans the process of combing is introduced for reducing the short fibre content in the material and for improving the fibreconfiguration (alignment to the sliver axis). Above 36s count generally combing operation is included.

Sequence of machines for Comber Lap preparation:a) Sliver lap machine Ribbon lap machine ( Lap Size: 18 x 20 cm )

b) Draw Frame Super Lap Machinec) Draw Frame Lap Former d) Three Draw Frame Lap Former

DRAW FRAME

Functions of Draw Frame:i. To improve the uniformity or evenness of the slivers fed and

ii. To make the fibres parallel to each other and to the axis of the sliver.The uniformity is achieved by doubling and parallelisation by drafting.

Doubling : feeding several fibres together into drafting zone for each end delivered.Drafting : it is the process of attenuation or decreasing the weight/unit length of sliver, by passing the sliver through a

pairs of rollers (in increasing speeds) where one pair has a higher surface speed than the other.

V1 V2 V1 & V 2 Surface speed of Bottom Roller V1 < V 2

SPEED FRAME

Functions of Speed Frame:

Drawing : to reduce the size of the strand.

Twisting : to give necessary strength for further handling, without stretching.

Winding & Building : to build a suitable package for spinning.

RING FRAME:

Functions of Ring Frame:Drafting: to draft the roving to the desired degree of fineness or count of final yarn.Twisting: to impart the requisite strength to the yarn appropriately inserting the required amount of twist.Winding: to wind the twisted yarn in a suitable package.

SPINNING OF WOOLLEN FIBRES

Sorting Wool Scouring Carbonizing Oiling & Soaping Blending (mixing) Wool Willow Carding(roller & Clearer) Spinning (by Mule or Flyer).



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Additional process of combing and drawing for drawing purposes).

FABRIC STRUCTURE

There are 2-types of fabric structures, namely-1. Fabrics made with yarns2. Fabrics made without yarns.

Fabrics made with yarnsMethod Process Producta) Interlacing Weaving Woven Fabrics

b) Interloping Knitting Knitted Fabricsc) Inter-twisting Twisting /Knotting Nets/Laces / Braided /Crotchet etc

Fabrics made without yarnsa) Felting Fulling Felt fabrics

b) Bonding Adhesion or entangling Non-woven fabricsc) Resin Compound / Laminating Calendaring Plastic sheets and films

Different Techniques for Fabric Production:WeavingKnitting

BraidingCrochetingLaminatedKnotting (or netting)

WEAVING

Weaving is the process of interlacing the two series of threads known as warp and weft the series of threads run from the back to the front of the loom i.e lengthwise of the fabric are called the warp. The crosswise yarns are called weft or

pilling.

Fabrics are woven on a loom :In a loom there are three types of motion:

i) Primary or Fundamental - Shedding, Picking and Beating-up.ii) Secondary or Subsidiary: Let-off, Take-up.

iii) Auxiliary motion: Warp stop motion, Weft stop, Temple, Warp Protector, Drop Box etc.(NB : Elaborate)

Types of Loom:

HANDLOOMThrough shuttle



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Fly-shuttle Frame loomPit loomLoin loom

POWERLOOM

SHUTTLE LOOM SHUTTLELESS LOOMPlain Powerloom Airjet

Semi-automatic Waterjet

Automatic Projectile, Rapier/Gripper Multiphase Loom

Weaving process involves the following steps:Yarn Preparation

Warp Preparation Weft PreparationSizingWindingWarping & BeamingDrafting & Denting Pirn WindingGaiting up & looming

Weaving(Fabric)

Fig.: Steps in woven fabric production

Warp Preparation:The object of warp preparation is to transfer yarn from the spinners package to a weavers beam which can be placed

behind a loom ready for weaving.

Weft Preparation:The object of weft preparation is to prepare the weft which is suitable for weft insertion.

Sizing :

To improve the weavability of yarn through reduction of end breaks.To make the yarn strengthen.To improve the abrasion resistance of the yarn.To add the extra weight to the cloth if necessary.

Winding (warp):To transfer the yarn from any form of package i.e. ring bobbin, mule cops, hanks to a suitable form of good

package that contain long length of yarn and unwind well during warping.To remove objectionable yarn faults such as slubs, neps, thick and thin place, snarls, foreign materials etcand wound under uniform tension producing a compact yarn.

Winding (weft):To wind yarn into a compact packages called pirn, suitable for the loom shuttle.



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CROCHETING :~ is a construction made with just one hook or needle. A chain of loops is formed from a single yarn. Eg.

Like flower in window curtain.

KNOTTING (OR NETTING)~ is a process of forming an open work fabric or net by tying yarns together where they cross one another.

Tatting is a form of knotted lace that is made with a shuttle fitted with yarns.

BONDING~ is a process of joining two or more layers of cloth together with a layer adhesive, or pressing fibres into

thin webs or mats that are held together by adhesive, plastic or self bonding agents.

FELT~ fabric consists of an entangled mass of animal hairs entwined and interlocked into a compact mass in a

irregular manner, under the action of moisture, heat and intermittent pressure. Felts are generally thick and weighty, but they lack porosity.

Felts do not require the use of yarns in their manufacture but may be made directly from certain animal hairswhich possess a scale structure.

NON WOVEN~ are products made of parallel laid, cross laid or random laid fibre webs bonded with applied adhesive or

thermoplastic fibres under application of heat and pressure.In 1942, in USA : Commercial productionTypes : Mechanically bonded non-woven, Adhesive bonded, Laminated fabric.

Difference between Knitted and Woven fabrics

Knitted Woven Fabrics

1 Produced by interloping technique Produced by interlacing technique

2 Soft or limp Rigid and stiffer

3Highly extensible (specially weft knitted), warpknitted fabrics are similar to woven fabric withlittle more extensible than woven fabric

Less extensible

4 Knitted fabrics are more air permeable Less air permeable



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PROCRSSING DEPARTMENT

The success of a processing department i.e. wet processing of textile fibre is depend upon the kinds of flow of materialsthrough the departments and their satisfactory completion in each treatment.

The Wet processing sequence ( for cotton ) most generally followed is:

SHEARING & CROPINGTo remove the long lose ends of yarn and cutting the small end of yarn by brush and cutters.

SINGEING~ is the process of removing the protruding cotton fibres for getting the clean cloth.Types of Singeing : Plate singeing, Roller singeing, Gas singeing)

DESIZINGThe purpose of desizing is to remove the sizing materials deposited on the yarn. The sizing materials are removed

either by the action of chemicals or by certain enzymatic preparation.

SCOURING~ is to remove the natural and other impurities associated with the cotton fibre.

Main chemical used: Caustic Soda +Supported alkaline substance Soda ash, Sodium silicate, Trisodium

phosphate.

BLEACHING

~ is whitening the textile material by the destruction of the residual colouring impurities present in the fabric.Chemical Used: Sodium Hypochlorite (NaOCl), Bleaching Powder, Hydrogen Peroxide(universal Blg.agent)



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DYEING

The main object of dyeing is the uniform colouration of the entire fabric with a primary, secondary or tertiary colour.

Dyes: Synthetic and Natural Dyes

Natural Dyes:

Blue Indigo

Red Lac-dye(coccus laccae), cochineal, kermes.

Yellow Black oak, turmeric.

Fig. Classification of Synthetic Dyes

Direct :Water soluble

Having affinity for cellulosic fibres like cotton, viscose etc.These are sodium salts of aromatic sulphonic acid.Poor washing fastness and poor light fastness.

Acid :Soluble in water Apply on wool, silk, nylon etc.

Basic :Most brilliant dyePoor light fastness

No affinity for cellulosic fibre

Reactive :Water solubleChemically react the dye with fibre.

Vat :Insoluble in water Most important dye for cotton and other cellulosic fibre.Good fastness property

PRINTING

~ is applying colour(s) in definite, repeated pattern to fabric, yarn or fibre by any one of a number of printingmethods.



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Difference between dyeing & printing

Dyeing PrintingUniform dyeing with solid colour Localised dyeing in definite, repeated patternWhole of the cloth is immersed in an aqueous solution of

dyestuff

Thickened colours or moderate are applied locally

Single colour in even and uniform throughout the lot Attractive design & effect in single or multi-colour can be produced

Dilute dyestuff solution used Fairly concentrated thickener film is usedFairly long distance travelled by the dye molecules Dye molecules travel a very short distance before they

are absorbed by fibre surface

FINISHING~ the object of finishing is to improve the appearance and / or serviceability of the fabric.

Types of finishing:i) Temporary finish : A finish which is not stable and goes off during subsequent washing and usage, then it is

called temporary finish. For example: Mechanical Calendaring, embossing etc. Chemical Starching(for stiff),softening

ii) Permanent finishing : If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and remains unaffected through all

the conditions of wear and washing treatments, then the finish is said to be a permanent finish. For example:-Mechanical: Sanforising, milling etc, Chemical : Water-proof, flame-proof, crease recovery, crease resistance.

iii) Semi-permanent : A finishing on the fabric is said to be semi-permanent fabric, if it is stable to more than 5 10 washes and not afterwards. For example: Schreiners Calendering( beautiful silk like lustre), buckram finish(collar cloth high stiff).

COLOUR FASTNESS PROPERTYWashing fastness: Loss of colour during laundering.Light fastness: Fading in sunlightPerspiration fastness: loss of colour in oil, fat, saline etc

Fastness to other agents: dry cleaning fastnesssea water

chlorinated water (swimming pool)rubbingpressing

burnt gas fumes to certain chemical compounds.

FASHION DESIGN

Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to the design of clothing and lifestyle accessories created within the

cultural and social influences of a specific time.Fashion designers may work under their own name, or for another designer name or brand.



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Fashion designers develop new styles and products for clothing apparel and accessories by creating originaldesigns or by adopting fashions to suit local conditions, trends and buyers. The designer begins the designing processonly after through market research i.e. understanding the need of the client / market in terms of changing trends,

budgets etc.

Some important types of fashion:

Houte Couture : Predominated until the 1950 s was made to-wear. A couture garment is made for andindividual customer.

Mass Market : It is for a wide range of customers, producing ready to-wear clothes in large quantitiesand standard sizes. Cheap material, creatively used, produce affordable fashion.

Ready-to-wear : Ready-to-wear clothes are a cross between couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customer, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantitiesto guarantee exclusive. So, they are rather costly.

Designing a Collection:

1. Planning a Collection : Every collection is very carefully researched and planned so that all the itemsin it complement each other, and have the particular fashion look which the company is known for.

2. Predicting Trend : One of the hardest skills a fashion designer has to master in predicting future trends.To do this, they look at what the fashion directions have been in previous seasons, keep an eye on whatothers in the fashion business are doing and read fashion forecasting magazines.

3. Choosing a Theme : The theme of a collection can be a period in history, a foreign place, a range of colours, a type of fabric anything which has a strong visual impact.

GARMENT DESIGN

1. The Design : Different designers work in different ways. Some sketch their ideas on paper, others drapefabric on a dress stand, pinning, folding and tucking it until the idea for a garment emerges. A third method isto adopt their own patterns from previous seasons.

2. Making a Toil : After making a rough paper pattern, or life-size 2-D plan, of the garment, a samplemachinist then makes a trial version of the garment from plain coloured calico. The toil is put on to a dressstand (or a modal) to see how it fits and whether it hangs property.

3. Making a Card Pattern : When the designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile, they show it to a professional pattern maker who then makes the finished, working version of the pattern out of card.

4. The Finished Dress : Finally, a sample garment is made up in the proper fabric.

CAREERS IN FASHION

The fashion industry as we know it today began Charles Frederick Worth, the Father of Haute Couture, whoestablished the first fashion house in 1858.

Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening, said CocoChanel, legendary fashionist.

Fashion careers of are essentially of two types-i) those in Fashion Design andii) those in the Sales and marketing side of the industry.



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The skills necessary for fashion design and fashion merchandising are quite different, although to master onerequires a good understanding of the other.

Fashion design is the most important area of work in fashion industry, designing involves in the various fields of specialisation like garments, footwear, jewellery and even language. It is a challenging field as it requires thecoordination of various jobs, in small concerns it is usually a one man show but in big organisation the jobs are

specialised and allotted to different personnel.Manufacturing involves purchasing textile and fabric required for the design and making the garment according

to master pattern.The various placement may be in garment, leather and jewellery industry or merchandising executives, fashion

designer, illustrator, fashion co-ordinators etc.

Some prominent Institute in Fashion Technology are National Institute of Fashion technology (NIFT) National Institute of Design (NID)International Institute of fashion Technology (IIFT), New Delhi

IEC School of Art and Fashion, New DelhiIndian Institute of Art and Fashion Technology (IIAFT), MumbaiPearl Academy of Fashion , New Delhi

Etc.

Introd Textile

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