INSIDE THIS ISSUE Brand New Spitfire? the World Replacement

INSIDE THIS ISSUE:

Brand New Spitfire?

Clear View onthe World

Slave CylinderReplacement

INSIDE THIS ISSUE:

Brand New Spitfire?

Clear View onthe World

Slave CylinderReplacement

WWW.TRIUMPHSPITFIRE.COM 1

Deluxe Carpet Set w/snaps $150.00

Roll Bar w/Hardware 205.00

Brake Hose Set (4-PC Girling) 40.00

Brake Hose Set Stainless 65.00

Brake Master 67-75 271.00

Brake Master 76-80 241.00

Clutch Master Cylinder 54.00

Clutch Slave Cylinder 56.00

Wheel Cylinder Set (2) 28.00

Ball Joint Set (2) 42.00

Rear Brake Shoe Set 12.00

Rotor and Pad Set 52.00

Header 67-80 94.00

Monza Exhaust System 175.00

Front Shock STD 31.00

Front Shock SPAX 86.00

New Rear Spring 71-80 104.00

Full Gasket Set 29.00

1500 Piston Set 9-1 146.00

Hot Street Cam (Exchange) 88.00

Lifter Set (8) 28.00

Starter (Exchange) 41.00

Tie Rod set (2) 18.00

Top w/Zip 71-80 151.00

Weber DGV DCOE Kit $CALL

Clutch Kit 3-PC B+B 75-80 100.00

Rebuilt Trans 75-80 (EX) 450.00

POLY BUSHINGS:Rack Mount Set 9.00

Sway Bar Bush Set 4-PC 12.00

Front Dif. Mount Set 16.00

Rear Shock Bush Set 8-PC 10.00

Radius Arm Bush Set 4-PC 17.00

A-Arm Bushing Set 8-PC 34.00

SPITFIRE SPECIALS

British Parts N.W. Inc.4105 SE Lafayette Hwy.Dayton, OR 97114 USA

www.BPNorthWest.com(503) 864-2001Fax (503) 864-2081

2 SPITFIRE & GT6 MAGAZINE • WINTER 2000

Is Your ClassicCar Agreed

Value Protected?

For a peace of mind, independent valuation &information about our services please call

(0) 1249 464965 ore-mail at [email protected]

Service available in the UK and Northern Ireland only

lassic Values have been in the busi-ness of valuing classic cars, especially

Triumphs for over 20 years.

Classic Values offers a quick and easy independent postal valuation of yourclassic for agreed value insurance, at a veryreasonable cost.

Classic Values independent valuations areaccepted by all leading insurance brokers.

Classic Values also offers advice and support in times of claim disputes andother insurance problems.

Valuations FOR Enthusiasts BY Enthusiasts

When our company decidedto do this magazine the staffagreed that the Spitfire andGT6 were two of the mostunder rated and underappreciated sports cars inthe world. If they are seenin other magazines, they areoften treated like thestepchild to the otherTriumph models. I think the

primary reason for this is the Spitfire’s best and worst asset;its low cost. Some people equate low-cost with low-value.Mk1’s and Mk2’s are getting scarce because so many “threwaway” an ailing car. Today’s Mazda Miata MX5 wasdesigned to fill a void that the Spitfire once held; the “biggestbang for the lowest buck”. I can’t imagine that in 35 yearsthe Miata will be looked down upon by the other Mazdaowners. On the other hand, the Spitfire’s low price wasadmittedly one of the main reasons I chose it as my firstsports car. In the US, a decent Spit could be had for $1000-$2000. If you are lucky enough to get one that has been takencare of or you don’t have the compulsive need to have ashowroom car, there is no better sports car. I have always feltSpitfires beat the other cars in its class, like the MG Midget,in many respects. Nicer interior, sexy body and accessibilityto the engine are just a few of the many reasons.

Because so many Spitfires and GT6’s were discarded,another negative becomes a positive; their scarcity. I almostnever come across another Spitfire on the road. When I do, Ialways get a wave from the other driver. In parking lots, Ioften see passing fathers pointing out the car to their sons asa car they once owned in their youth. There is no better pridethan heritage.

The Spitfire/GT6 magazine is our attempt at glorify andkeep the cars alive. We want the magazine to grow and getmore informative every issue. A journey of a thousand milesbegins with one step. We love our cars but are by no means“experts”. We want you to feel as if this magazine along withour accompanying website (TriumphSpitfire.com) is yours toshare any information you feel would be of value to otherSpitfire and GT6 owners. With your help, we will keep theglory alive and raise the Spitfire and GT6 to the level itdeserves.

Thanks and looking forward to hearing from you,

John Goetherteditor

from the editor

PUBLISHERP r o f i l e s M a r k e t i n g G r o u p

EDITORJ o h n G o e t h e r t

PHOTOGRAPHERST h o m a s B r o b e r g

K a y F r a n k l i nCONTRIBUTING WRITERS

T i m J o h n s o nC a r o l e F r a n k l i n

D i c k H a r l i n gC h u c k N e w m a n

R e g i n i a E u b a n k sA n g i e G o e t h e r t

US ADVERTISING SALEST o m B r o b e r g

t o m @ m a g a z i n e p u b l i s h e r . c o m1 - 8 0 0 - 4 8 7 - 3 3 3 3

EUROPEAN ADVERTISINGSALES

J o h n G r i f f i t h sj o h n y g 4 @ h o t m a i l . c o m

PRINTINGP u l a s k i W e b

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

7 8 1 5 - C O a k R i d g e H i g h w a yK n o x v i l l e , T N 3 7 9 3 1

( 8 0 0 ) 4 8 7 - 3 3 3 3The staff of Spitfire/GT6 Magazine expresses its

sincere gratitude to the many supporters and suppliers ofstories, photos and technical information.

Spitfire/GT6 Magazine is published quarterly at a rate of$9.95 US, $14.95 other North America and $19.95Europe. To subscribe, call 1-800-487-3333 or write

Spitfire Magazine, P.O. Box 30806, Knoxville, TN 37930-0806

© 2000 Profiles Marketing Group. Reproduction in wholeor in part without permission is prohibited. Specialthanks to Car & Driver Magazine reprint permission.

contents

4 BOOK REVIEW

5 MAILBOX

6 LITTLE BITS OF SPITS

7 READERS’ CARS

9 MAINTENANCEWindshield Maintenance

12 CAR CAREWinter Storage

16 FEATURE STORYBrand New Spitfire?

20 MAINTENANCESlave Cylinder Replacement

23 VINTAGE SPITFIRECar & Driver reviews the “new” Spitfire

27 ON THE ROAD AGAINThe All Day “30 Minute Drive”

30 TRIUMPH/CAR CLUBS

To send information to Spitfire/GT6 Magazine:[email protected] orP.O. BOX 30806, KNOXVILLE, TN USA 37930-0806

&GT6 magazineSpitfire

V o l u m e 1 , I s s u e 1

SpitfireRestoration:PracticalClassics & Car RestorerBy BrooklandsBooks, 80 pages,$13, £8

This book is basically a compilationof reprints of Practical Classics sto-ries originally run Feb. 1981-87. Thebook starts out with general buyingguides for both Spitfire and GT6. Thenext few stories deal with repair andrebuilds of common problems dealingwith both cars; sill replacements, sus-pension & steering rebuild, andengine strips. The last 14 chaptersdeal exclusively with the Spitfire.The stories are written in diary for-mat discussing the problems involvedin a referb of a Triumph Sports SixClub member’s1970 Mk 3. Some ofthe restorations covered are: differen-tial replacement, gearbox repair, bodyremoval, chassis repair, painting,cockpit re-trim and hood replace-ment. Because the book is writtenwhile doing an actual repair, the sto-ries tell in detail of real-life problemsthat arise, not the generic style of ashop manual. There are often tipssprinkled through out.

If there are any negatives, Iwould say one would be the qualityof the black & white photos. Beingreprints, the fine details are often lost.However never bad enough as tomake them unusable. Occasionallythere are hand-drawn diagrams usedto show aspects of assembly thatwould not be able to be seen in aphotograph.

Another minus could be that thebook doesn’t deal with commonproblems of all Spitfires, just theproblems they found on this specificSpitfire. The problems that areaddressed however, are discussedwell.

Although this book does nothave the large amount of informationof the next book to be reviewed, it isrelatively inexpensive and wouldmake a welcome addition to anenthusiast’s automotive library.

Spitfire, GT6,Herald, & VitessePurchase &RestorationGuide. By LindsayPorter & PeterWilliams, 312 pg, 961ill. $35, £18

This hard-bound book by HaynesPublishing contains 7 chapters dealingwith every aspect of Spitfire & GT6restoration and troubleshooting. Thechapters are: Heritage, Buying,Bodywork, Mechanical components,Electrical components, Trim (exterior andinterior) and Home modifications. Thisbook has it all! Too much to list but hereis a brief overview.

The book begins with a brief historyincluding models that lead up theSpitfire/GT6. It even features informationon racing and Spit/GT6 derived cars.

Chapter 2 deals with choosing a carand the potential problems to look forwhen buying. It discusses problems asso-ciated with specific models and popularoptions to look for when buying.

The body work chapter (chapter 3)discusses with almost every commonmajor repair Spit/GT6 cars; floor pan,door skin, sill replacement, etc. Mostbeing rust repair, however, there is information dealing with the paintingafter the repairs.

Chapters 4 and 5 deal with mechanical and electrical componentsrespectively. They deal with all the usualailments however they discuss such surprising topics as engine removal without a hoist and transmission removalwithout removing the engine.

The most surprising chapter is chapter 7. It discusses aftermarket itemsfor the Spit/GT6 delving into such add-ons as electronic ignition and electric fan fitting.

If there are any negatives (I had tosearch hard) they would be that it wouldbe nice if the “spotters guide” sectionwere in color not black and white. Also,there is a lot of information about theHerald. While it is interesting, it doesn’tnecessarily pertain to me being a Spitfireowner. Remember, I am trying very hardto find something negative with this won-derful book.

This book is well worth the $35/£18.Loaded with loads of useful troubleshoot-ing and step by step instructions, thisbook is a must have.


Book Reviewwww.Books4Cars.comYour Source forAutomotive ShopManuals and BooksTRIUMPH SPITFIRESpitfire & GT6 ‘A Collector’s Guide’: history bookwith technical & restoration info by Graham Robson; 128pgs. hardcover $ 27.95Guide to Originality by John Thomason for TriumphSpitfire & GT6; 160 pgs, hardcover $ 34.9569-70 Spitfire Mk 3 Workshop manual $ 19.9562-81 Spitfire Haynes Manual $ 16.9562-80 Spitfire portfolio; 180 pgs of articles compiledin book form by Brooklands $ 22.8471-75 Parts Catalogue Factory Approved for SpitfireMk. IV and 1500 $ 15.6569-80 Spitfire Service Manual Glovebox size ownersworkshop manual 186 pgs. $ 14.8475-80 Spitfire 1500 Official Repair OperationManual 216 pgs. $ 37.8475-80 Parts Manual for Spitfire 1500 FactoryOfficial, 200 pages. $ 37.84Restoration: Practical Classics & Car Restorer on TriumphSpitfire Restoration. 80 pages $ 11.84Mk3 Parts Manual Factory Official 224 pages$ 37.84Mk3 Owners Manual; 80 pgs. $ 10.95Mk4 Official Repair Operation Manual $ 37.84Mk4 Official Owners Handbook Spitfire $ 12.841500 Owners Manual for Triumph Spitfire $ 10.95Competition Preparation Manual by Triumph for allSpitfires MK1-1500; 64 pgs. $ 10.95Mk1-3 Official Workshop Manual, 272 pages inclHerald & Vitesse. $ 37.84Purchase & Restoration Guide, Spitfire, GT6, Herald,& Vitesse, by Lindsay Porter & Peter Williams, Hardcover,312 pg, 961 ill. $ 24.85Mk4 Parts List for Triumph Spitfire $ 7.95Mk1&2 Parts Manual for Triumph Spitfire $ 49.95SU Carburetor Tuning Manual, 168 pages $ 17.95

TRIUMPH GT662-74 GT6 & Vitesse Haynes Manual $ 29.84 66-74 GT6 Gold Portfolio, 172 pgs of articles, com-piled by Brooklands $ 24.95 71-74 GT6 Parts Catalogue official Triumph $ 27.95 GT6 Mk1-3 Shop Manual, Factory Official, $ 47.85 Mk1 Owners Manual for GT6; 72 pgs. $ 10.95 Mk2 & GT6+ Owners Manual from Triumph $ 10.95 Mk3 Owners Manual for Triumph GT6; 66 pgs. $ 10.95 Competition Preparation Manual for GT6 $ 10.95 SU Carburetor Tuning Manual, 168 pages $ 17.95

visit our website at www.Books4Cars.comWe purchase automotive books you no longer need!

VOSS MOTORSphone:(248) 357-4750

toll free:(888) 380-9277email:[email protected]

21849 Virgina Dr.Southfield, Michigan 48076 USA

MODERN MATH:1+1+1=1

I am just letting you knowwhat I have done, and I am byno means a expert. Just anoth-er shadetree wrench jockey.Just because like so manyother LBC owners, I do whatI have to do it myself becausethere never seems to be any-one or anywhere that seemsreputable or capable or mostof all willing to work on ourbabies.

I am sure that you havewalked into an “Import AutoRepair” garage and all theywant to work on is MB,Volvos, BMWs, Porches orJapanese cars. They all butlaugh out loud when youask,”Do you work onTriumphs?”. So we all becomeexperienced from necessityinstead of because we justhave nothing better to do withour time. But it is satisfyingto take a 1400lb. pile of scrapmetal and make it a viablevehicle.

I bought my 64 Spitfirefor $300 back in 1979, from akid who had been rearendedby his best friend. The frontclip was pretty well beat up,the interior was in the guy’sbasement, the tranny was sitting where the passengerseat was supposed to be andhad been sitting for about 2years. The trunk was 2 bentfenders and a bent deck lid,there was no floor in the trunkjust some shards of rustymetal where it used to be.

In ‘81 I found a ‘63 Spitthat had been left at a shop forrepairs and the owner hadfailed to pay the bill and I paid

$125 for #2 (parts car). Iretrieved the “front” bonnet,rear deck lid and gauges (thisone suffered trunk rot also).

In ‘86 I found a wrecked‘67 Mk3 part car #2 (and #3triumph). From this one I got a complete rear body clip lessthe deck lid and lights. Afterbartering with a guy who hada body shop and owned aMark 2 with a blown engine.I traded #2 spit that had a1500 engine for all the bodywork and a decent paint job (I supplied the materials andhe did the work). So, I have acomplete car.

I guess my next venturewill be to overhaul my SUsand fit a new distributor, afterI locate my wiring problem. Until then, Peace be with you.

Larry Zink 64 Mk1

ON THE SEVENTH DAYGOD CREATED BONDO

You need to clearly understand the car is a hobby.My analogy is it is a 6 day car,drive 6 days work on it theseventh. If you approach thecar with the attitude it is ahobby you will be wellpleased. They are a lot of fun.

Dean Hagerty

TRIUMPH SPITFIRE: THE ULTIMATE PICK-UP LINE?Dear Spitfire Magazine,

I bought a 1976 Spitfire in1983. Canary yellow andstock. Most people inMilwaukee Wisconsin at thattime knew little about sportscars. I was recently divorcedand in my late twenties barhopping years. I used to pickup girls by having the top

down on my spit and parkingit right in front of my favoritebar before it opened. Youcould see the car through bigwindows that fronted the bar.Anyway, not being Don Juanor anything I would have myfriend who owned and tendedthe bar talk to girls and bringtheir attention to the spit.Invariably they would ooh andahh and ask who owned thecar. He would point me outand I would suddenly havedrinks bought for me etc. Thegirls would eventually all get aride and being a gentleman I’djust smile. The clinching linethough involved the dashplaque. As we wouldhum along at duskthe girls wouldoften see theplaque saying“SCCA NationalChampion1967, 1968etc. and theywould ask meabout it. Iwould justcasually tellthem thatthose werethe years Iwon. Slam dunk.

Regarding our favoriteinventor “Lord Lucas” I usedto converse with a Healey andMidget fan years ago whogave the master electrician anadditional nickname. “LordLucas - Bringer of Darkness”.

Here’s to coming up on90 degree corners at 60, jamming 2nd gear, crankingthe wheel and standing on thethrottle.

Chuck Newman, ‘76 1500

32¢United States Postal Service

Mailbox


Send your letters and comments to: [email protected]

RIMMER BROTHERSRELEASES ITS NEWPARTS CATALOGThis summer RimmerBrothers released its lat-est Spitfire and GT6catalogs. If you havenever seen one, it isnot just loaded withparts but wonderfulphotos of cars fromthe Spitfire 4 to the1500. The catalog

is free and can berequested by calling +44 1522568000 or by e-mail:[email protected] for UK and [email protected] for the rest of theworld.

And yes US, they willsend it free to you too.

INTERNATIONALTRIUMPH SPITFIREDATABASEIn an ongoing effort to identifyand record the number andgeographic location of allremaining Triumph Spitfires, awebsite/database has beenestablished. Since much of thedata was contributed byTriumph clubs around theworld, there are likely manyerrors. Because much of thedata has been accumulatedover the course of time, vehi-cles have changed hands orsuffered the fate of accidents,rust or other demise, but havenot been removed from thelogs of the clubs. Therefore, inviewing the information con-tained in the database, pleasewatch for information youknow to be outdated and usethe data entry form to reportthese errors. So, If you seeyour car listed, use the dataentry page to update anyincomplete information. At

the same time, if you know ofadditional Spitfires that are notlisted, use the data entry pageto input the new data. Thedatabase is updated monthlyas time and new data dictate.FYI: Many people who havelooked for their 1500 in thedatabase have indicated thatthey are unable to find it.Most of the time, they did notlook far enough down the list.

If you have not already visited, do so soon. The url is:http://Home1.gte.net/spitlist/index.html.

There is also a GT6 database being started athttp://personal.cfw.com/~hsgentry/register.html.

Both can accessed directlyor as a hyperlink onTriumphSpitfire.com’s links page.


Little bits of Spits

Fibrefab Jamaican FoundFiberFab was a kitcarcompany located inCalifornia with additionalshops in Ohio and evenGermany. They producedmany styled kits thatremain to be some of the

most famous among kitcar enthusiasts. Started in 1968,Fiberfab was designed to fit Austin Healey, Triumph, MGA,and VW. Later, bodies were made for front engine V-8 and wasoffered with its own chassis kit. This particular car uses aSpitfire as its base.

Owner Bob Kanholtz is planning to restore the car thiscoming spring. If we are lucky, we might get a look at theprogress in the next issue..


Reader’s Cars

H u w U p s h a l l , W a s h i n g t o n , U S Ah u p s h a l l @ w o l f e n e t . c o m

R i c G i b s o n , C o l o r a d o , U S Ar i c g i b s o n @ m h o . n e tW a t c h f o r t h i s c a r i n a e n g i n e s w a ps t o r y i n a f u t u r e i s s u e . I t w i l l b er e c e i v i n g a 1 9 9 3 M a z d a R X 7 e n g i n ew i t h t w i n s e q u e n t i a l t u r b o s !

S u e , H a m p s h i r e , U Ks u z i e _ b e a r @ h o t m a i l . c o m

L a u r a G h a r a z e d d i n e , C a l i f o r n i a , U S AL a u r a . G @ 1 4 1 . c o m

To have your car featured in next month’s magazine, e-mail us at [email protected]

EGG AND SPOON RACE (2 person event)Set up slalom course with cones. Passenger hasan egg on a spoon slightly smaller than the egg!(Ping pong balls will do if you're short on eggs!)However the spoon must be small enough tomake holding the egg difficult. driver movesthrough the slalom hopefully with no droppedeggs-and the fastest time is the winner.Soccer Ball Slalom (2 person event)Set up a line of posts along a 60 foot stretch,holding tape to form a line. If you have no tape,string threaded with paper cups will do. The dri-ver directs the car parallel to the posts and thepassenger then tries to guide a soccer ball or bas-ketball, between the posts using a paddle. Finallymaneuvering the ball into a bucket lying on itsside at the end of the line. A timed event withpenalties applied for missing taking the ballbetween any two posts.

MOVING THE WATER! (2 person event)Set up a 60 yard "L" shaped course marked withcones. The course could be longer dependingupon available space. Competitors are given acoffee can. At the start of the course is placed a

large tub of water. timestarts-at which the pas-senger has to get the tinfull of water from thetub. When ready, the driver makes a run to theother end of the course,with the passengershopefully holding the tinof water out of the sideof the car! At the end ofthe course is placed asuitable receptacle forthe water, which incor-

porates some form of measurement so that theamount of water can be calculated. Three turnsare made to get the most amount of water downto the other end, but the driver must reverse backeach time to the start for the passenger to getmore water in the can. This event can be timed orjust decided on the most amount of water ferriedto the end of the course.

CUPS AND BALLS (Timed 2 person event)Set out stakes at ten yard intervals-a sixty yardstretch will be fine. Put upturned paper cups ontop of each stake. At the start line hand the passenger six tennis balls. The object is to drivethe car in and out of the posts while the passen-ger turns the cups the right way up, and thenplaces a ball in the paper cup which is balancedon top of each post.

WILL IT GO? (Solo event)Sixty yards away from a start line, set up twoposts each of which can be moved by a marshallholding each post. Drivers have to indicate to themarshalls to move the posts closer together, orfurther away, until the driver thinks the car willjust go through the posts. Driver then moves forward and sees how judgmental he has been!The distance from the of the car to each post isthen measured and the driver with the smallesttotal overall measurement is declared the winner.Bucket In The Middle (2 person event)Set up cones in a tight turning circle for the carsbeing used. Driver circles around the outside ofthe cones and passenger attempts to lob beanbags into a bucket placed in the center of the circle of cones. Go around three times forwardand then try the same in reverse! Most bags inthe bucket wins!

Other Fun Things to Do in a CarBY PAUL MCAFEE


Just for Fun

Games you and your friends can play while behind the wheel of your Spitfire. Great for club meetings.

Join the oldest andlargest all-TriumphClub in North AmericaVTR Members enjoy:• Free classified advertising• Free technical advise• Membership card and decal• Discounts on books and regalia• Four issues of our award-winning magazine• Access to classic car insurance

Join today: $25 US, $30 Canada, $35 elsewhere (US funds only)

The Vintage Triumph RegisterDept. BMC. Membership

15218 W. WarrenDearborn, MI 48216

For more information, send a SASE or visit:www.vtr.org

Clear View on the WorldWindshield MaintenanceBY TIM JOHNSON


Maintenance

ToolsREQUIRED:

phillips screwdriver

flat screwdriver

thin, strong wooden or plastic stick

heavy nylon cord

petroleum jelly

patient helper

OPTIONAL:

box cutter

glass polishing kit

new gasket

On our website we have gotten quite a few requests dealingwith windshield (windscreen) replacement. Most every questiondeals with the fear of breaking than anything else. With a caution,your windshield can be removed and replaced with minimal hassleand without danger of breakage.

REMOVAL CAN BE BROKEN DOWN INTO 2 STEPS:1. remove rear view mirror, sun visors, chrome strips and

windshield wipers2. push out windshield

INSTALLATION HAS 3 STEPS:1. fit gasket2. press into car.3. replace chrome strip, sun visors, windshield wipers and mirror

Of course it is not that easy. This story will go through the stepsand make the process as painless as possible.

The first process is to remove all the itemsnear the windshield that would be in the way.Start with the interior. Remove the mirror byunscrewing one of the two screws in the mirror’sbase. The retaining block and mirror should beable to be slid out. The sun visors do not have tobe removed but it is a good idea (one less thingto be in your way). They are held on with a single screw at each end. Mk1-3 also have a center screw holding on the mounting bar thatwill need to be removed.

Before removing the wipers, take note of theposition of the blades relative to the frame. Thiswill help get them intothe correct position whenreinstalling. Removal isaccomplished by liftingthem to the “cleaningposition.” Using a large,flat screwdriver betweenthe large nut and the arm,pry up while rocking thearm with your other hand.

Next is the removal of the chrome strip running around the windshield, assuming it isstill there. Many cars I have seen lately no longerhave it still in place. Start by sliding the centerfinisher covers over out of the way. Then useyour wooden stick to gently pry out the strips.

Glass removal can be easy or difficultdepending on wether the windshield gasket be used again. If not, the process iseasy. Using a strong knife, like the onesused for carpet or a box cutter, cut therubber gasket away from the glass. Pushthe blade into the center of the rubber,carefully feeling where the glass stops.

Cut all the way around. The glass can easily bepushed out from the inside.

If the gasket is still in good shape, things geta little more difficult. The rubber is supposed to

be soft having no cracks. If there is any doubt,replace it. It’s not very expensive, under $30(£20), and will be more flexible making installation easier and less likely to leak.

Run the wooden stick around the circumfer-ence between the gasket and frame to break thesealant applied at the factory.

Sitting inthe passenger’sseat, using yourfoot (soft, flexi-ble shoes workbest), gentlypush the glass. Don’t KICK! Remember, themore evenly the pressure on the glass, the lesslikely you are to crack it. Your helper shouldstand in the engine bay, on the tires. Using thestick again, push it under the inside lip at the top,prying just enough to get the rubber startedthrough the frame, all the time being ready tocatch the glass when it comes out.

RemovalWindshield Maintenance


Maintenance

QuickTipUse maskingtape to seal theinterior heatervents duringwindshieldremoval. If theglass is brokenor gets brokenduring removal,flakes of glasswon’t fall downinto the ventsand blow outinto your facelater.

While it is out...there are a few things that should be donebefore reinstallation. Number one is to clean theglass. All traces of sealant must be removedbefore the new gasket goes back on. This is eas-ily done by rubbing with your finger. A suitablewindow cleaner should remove dirt and grease.

FIX THE RUSTAnother area to check is the windshield

frame for rust. Spitfire/GT6’s often rust thereand it is much easier dealt with the windshieldout of the car. A wire brush and your favoritespray rust converter will do the trick.

POLISH THE GLASSHaving the glass out of the car is the perfect

opportunity to polish the glass. Years of abuse

Refitting the windshield if often a source ofgreat frustration. Following these instructionswill help make it relatively painless.

Start the process by fittingthe gasket to windshield. Run abead of sealant along the chan-nel on the bottom half of thegasket. Because ofits bowed shape, itgoes on easier by

slipping it on from what is the insideof the windshield. The heavy sidegoes to the inside, the side with theslit goes to to outside.

With your finger, rub petroleumjelly in the groove where the rubbermeets the car. Put a little extra at thetop and bottom at the center. Nextstarting at the bottom center, feed theheavy nylon cord around the same groove youjust rubbed the jelly. You will need to have at

least 2 feet extra overlapping in the center. Thepetroleum jelly serves two purposes, to helplubricate the gasket and keep the cord from slid-ing out of the groove. The windshield can now belaid in place from the outside of the car with theloose cords to the interior. With the assistantfirmly pressing the rubber against the car to pre-

vent the lip from slip-ping off, you slowlypull one cord outmoving around theframe. This will drawthe rubber lip over theflange of the body.

When the it is inyou will need to cleanup any excess petrole-um jelly, reinstall themirror, visors, chrome

strips and wipers. Use the diagram below to getcorrect position of the wiper blades.

RefittingWindshield Maintenance


Maintenance

QuickTipLeave the gasket in thesun prior toinstallation.This will warmthe rubber andmake it moreflexible.

by the wiper blades and ice scrapers take theirtoll. However, there is a way to remove scratches from the glass. Specialty automotiveglass companies and Eastwood Company(www.EastwoodCompany.com, 800-820-9042) sell polishing kits that willremove the haze. Using a special polishing compound (Rhodite) and buffing wheel attachedto a hand drill, you will be able to buff out allthe glare causing swirls.

CLEAN THE DASHDon’t forget to clean the dash while the windshield out. A vacuum

cleaner will remove all the trapped dust around the vents. One trick Ilearned revitalizing a very sun-faded dash it to “paint” it using shoepaint. Not polish but the paint used to fix badly scuffed leather (my wifebought it to fix the heels of a pair of dress shoes.) It is durable, easilyput on using a rag, opaque enough to hide most blemishes and is sold atmost shoe stores.

OUTSIDECAR

INSIDECAR

Winter is an especially hard time of the yearfor cars. Rain, salt and mud are the enemy ofmetal and will attack your car at an alarming rate.The obvious answer would be to take the car offthe road until the weather improves. The troubleis that cars are designed for regular use. If theysit around idle, mechanical and electrical components will corrode and rubber and leatherwill crack. Lack of air circulation will encouragemold in the interior, and body work can rust. Theidea is protect the car from the elements whilefooling the car into believing it is being used.

COSMETIC PREPARATIONThe first job to prepare your car for a lay up

is to clean it. Dirt traps moisture against the carand contains salts that will accelerate corrosion.It also retains airborne pollutants that damage the paint. Use a hose or jet-wash to clean theunderside, suspension and engine bay. You mayneed a brush to shift heavy accumulations. Nowwash the exterior and chamois it off, then go fora spin to evaporate any trapped water.

Wax the exterior paint work to remove oxidized paint and protect the paint, then reapplyand don’t buff it.

Chrome requires special treatment. Only usewaxes that are “clearcoat safe” because others

contain abrasives thatcan scratch. Vaseline ora proprietary productsuch as Protec “N’ Storeis a better bet.

Humidity is theenemy of the leather andwood of your interiorand will deteriorate themif stored unprotected.Use a leather cleaning

product then follow up with a dose of leatherfood to keep them supple and moisture-proof.Because it is nearly impossible to seal out all

sources of moisture, leave the car windows openslightly to allow the air to circulate. If the car isprone to wet carpets, remove them and store in a dry place. Place a container of silica gel (available from home improvement stores) in the car to remove excess moisture.

A strong vacuum should be used to removedirt from the carpets and seat cracks. Do not forget the trunk.

GARAGESOf course a garage is the best defense, but if

one is not available, there are various covers onthe market designed to keep out the elements.Non-breathable covers such as polythene or tar-paulin can do more harm than good by trappingcondensation against the car, preventing the airfrom drying it out. Far better is to purchase onemade of Technalon®, a material which keeps rainout but allows existing moisture to evaporateaway. Carcoon or Car-Capsule, as their namessuggest, use a plastic “bubble” blown-up aroundthe car. A low-voltage electric fan circulates air inand around the car never allowing contact withthe car’s paint.

Although you might think a garage will keepyour car out of the moisture, it often is worsethan being outside. Leaks and condensationleaching up from the floor can bring moisturelevels higher than outside. If the floor does havethis problem, a sheet of polythene on the floorwould help. You can cover this with a layer ofold carpet, which will help insulate the garagefrom cold-temperature changes which promotecondensation. Skip the carpet if you regularlyuse the garage. Like a sponge, it will hold waterthat drips from the car radiating it back into theair later.

A dehumidifier does a wonderful job, but isonly really necessary if there is excessive waterproblem. On the other side, it can pull so muchhumidity from the air that your car’s leather,

Putting Your Baby to BedWinter StorageBY TIM JOHNSON


Car Care

QuickTips1. Make achecklist ofmonthlyrequirementsand tape it tothe steeringwheel2. Run the carmonthly 3. Make surethe car is clean,dry and coolbefore storage

wood or other natural materials will dry out andcrack.

Even if the garage is naturally dry, you stillneed to circulate air in there occasionally. Openthe door every month to allow the garage to getfresh air. Wait until the warmest part of the daywhen humidity has been dissipated by the heat ofthe sun especially if the garage is in a low-lyingarea.

MECHANICAL PREPARATIONMany mechanical and electrical components

will suffer less from the winter weather than theydo from inactivity. The easiest way to keepeverything in good condition is to go for a driveevery few weeks. Be sure to use all of the acces-sories; they need use also. When your drive,allow the car to cool before putting it away toavoid bringing extra moisture into the garage.

If you will not be able to drive the car occasionally, preparation and storage becomesmore involved. You need to get into a routine ofmaintenance to keep everything in top condition.First, you will need to run the car regularly, sopark the car in the garage nose first so that theexhaust can escape.

Tires and wheel bearings develop flat spots if they have the car’s weight bearing down in oneposition for extended periods. Over-inflate thetires up to 50 percent over their usual pressures to minimize the problem, and periodically roll thecar into a different position. If there is notenough room in your garage, consider putting thecar on axle stands to take the weight off thewheels.

Your engine’s oil protects it internals fromrust during short periods of inactivity. However,eventually it drains into the pan, leaving bores,camshaft and crankshaft bearings vulnerable. It is absolutely essential that the oil and filter arechanged before layup. Combustion creates acidsand condensation that attack metal. An extramargin of security is achieved by squirting oilinto spark plug holes. It can be distributed byhand turning the crank. This helps guarantee a oil fresh film coating in the bores.

You’re better off cranking the engine on thestarter, with the coil lead disconnected, until oil

pressure builds up. This circulates the oil properly around the engine. Now re-connect thatlead, start the engine and run it for at least 20minutes at full operating temperature. Running it for just a few minutes is counter-productive. It creates only enough heat to attract moistureinto the engine and exhaust. While you’re waiting, operate the clutch to prevent it sticking,and use all of the gears.

While waiting for the car to warm up, operate every control and piece of electricalequipment, including the radio/cassette player.Commutators in electric motors oxidize if notregularly polished by the brushes.

Brake discs and drums rust quickly if notused. With the car running in gear, gently applythe brakes several times to prevent pistons andcalipers seizing and keep the friction surfacesrust-free in the drive wheels. You can protect thediscs or drums on un-driven wheels with a coat of Vaseline after removing the pads orshoes-remember to clean it off at the end of thestorage period with thinners.

When the static run is over, give the bumpersa few bounces to clean off the corrosion from theexposed piston surfaces of the shocks.

Stuff a heavy rag into the air intake to thecarburetor. I have heard of mice setting up homein there, shredding the air filter and live happilyundisturbed until spring. Think about what hap-pens to your engine when paper shreds, etc. getsucked into the carb and beyond. You must


Car Care

remember to remove the rag before starting thecar or it will be sucked in.

Bearings in alternators, water pumps anddynamos can be damaged by the pressure of thedrive belt in one position, so slacken them forlight relief. Now is a good time to check orreplace the coolant. Refill with quality glycol-based coolant containing corrosion inhibitors, atthe recommended concentration of 30-50 percent.

Batteries last longest if kept in a fully-charged state. They spontaneously dischargethemselves if they get below 50 percent.Sulphation on the internal plates reduces batterycapacity eventually making it unable to acceptcharge. The static run should recharge the bat-tery after starting the engine. If you won’t be run-ning the car, remove the battery and connect it toa trickle charger.

Winter may seen to be a chance to save onrunning costs. After all, if you don’t drive thecar, why pay for the insurance. Be sure to check with your insurance company. If yourgarage burns, for example, is your car covered?

You may have to switch types of coverage during the lay-up.

SPRING HAS SPRUNG...It’s tempting to fling open the garage door

and go roaring off when the first sign of springsun appears, but hold on a minute.

Check the list of jobs to do, that you tied tothe steering wheel when you laid the car up. It should remind you to do things like removingVaseline from brake discs, refitting pads,tightening the belts, removing the rag in theintake and taking the car off its axle stands!

Check that the battery is charged up andcrank the engine with the ignition disabled tobuild up oil pressure before starting it. Finally,recheck the fluid levels and give the brakes a fewpumps to make sure that they are working.

No one ever said owning a classic would beeasy, but proper care is less hassle than freeingup or rebuilding seized up components whileeveryone else is out on the road enjoying thewarn spring sun.


Car Care

The Club for All Triumphs• Meetings Each Month

• Magazine• Newsletter

• Discounts from 70 Firms• Valuations

• Spares Service• Shows

• Motor Insurance• Technical Advice

• Modest Fees

website: www.club.triumph.org.uk | email: [email protected]

Membership SecretaryFreepost (SWB 20389)Christchurch BH 234ZZTel/Fax: )1423 274193

Aerial Antenna

Accelerator Gas pedal

Alternator Generator (AC)

Anti-roll bar Sway bar

Bodywork Sheet metal

Bonnet Hood

Boot lid Trunk lid

Boot (luggage) Trunk

Bottom gear 1st gear

Bulkhead Firewall

Cam follower or tappet Valve lifter

Carburettor Carburetor

Catch Latch

Choke/venturi Barrel

Circlip Snap-ring

Clearance Lash

Crownwheel Ring gear

Disc (brake) Rotor/disk

Drop head coupe Convertible

Dynamo Generator (DC)

Earth (electrical) Ground

Estate car Station wagon

Exhaust manifold Header

Fastback (Coupe) Hard top

Float chamber Float bowl

Free-play Lash

Freewheel Coast

Gudgeon pin Piston pin or wrist pin

Gearchange Shift

Gearbox Transmission

Halfshaft Axle shaft

Handbrake Parking brake

Hood Soft top

Indicator Turn signal

Interior light Dome lamp

Layshaft (of gearbox) Countershaft

Locks Latches

Motorway Freeway, turnpike etc

Number plate License plate

Paraffin Kerosene

Petrol Gasoline

Propeller shaft Driveshaft

“Pinking” “Pinging”

Quarter light Quarter window

Rocker cover Valve cover

Roof rack Car-top carrier

Saloon Sedan

Seized Frozen

Side indicator lights Side marker lights

Side light Parking light

Silencer Muffler

Spanner Wrench

Sill panel Rocker panel

Split pin Cotter pin

Steering arm Spindle arm

Sump Oil pan

Tappet Valve lifter

Thrust bearing Throw-out bearing

Top gear High

Trackrod Tie-rod

Transmission Whole drive line

Tyre Tire

Vice Vise

Wheel nut Lug nut

Windscreen Windshield

Wing/mudguard Fender

ENGLISH AMERICAN ENGLISH AMERICAN

English to EnglishDictionary of Terminology


Reference

I think it is every sports car enthusiast’sdream; finding a forgotten classic hidden away for years. While driving through small towns, I often catch myself voyerishly peering into openoutbuildings or garages for the slightest hint of a pristine old car buried under junk and years ofdust. Dick Harling of Quebec Canada, is one of the lucky few to have such a dream come true.A almost perfect Spitfire.

The car was built in April 1980 as a 1981model. Lagging demand for Spitfires in NorthAmerica at the time destined the car to sit unsoldand unloved on a sales lot in Montreal untilOctober of 1982. The original owner paid at thetime $C 8,495, about $6000 US. The car was driven from the lot north to the heated storage

where it sat until mid September of this year. Notwanting to put any additional miles on the car,Dick brought it to his garage on a flat bed trans-porter. To date, the car has only 383 kilometers(about 240 miles) on the odometer!

“When I bought the car a few weeks ago, the

Brand NewSpitfire?BY CAROLE FRANKLIN


Feature Story


Feature Story

car hadn’t been started for about 10 years” Dickexclaimed. “After cleaning the carb and sparkplugs, it runs like a top. I have not driven it andwill not until I have changed all the fluids (brakeand clutch fluids, coolant, oils, etc.)”

On a warm fall day, Dick decided to showthe little car respect. Draining the gas tank andfilling it with fresh gas was the first thing done.“I washed and waxed it and its British RacingGreen paint looks stunning with the tan herring-bone cloth seats. As you can imagine, everythingabout the car is perfect. The top, tonneau cover,seats and paint all just like the day it came fromthe factory.” Of course, Dick has all originalmanuals and documents. He even has the originalbill of sale!

The car has a catalytic converter and is made to North American specifications. The only difference from the US model is that the

speedometer is calibrated to kilometers ratherthan miles. “When will the good old USA getwith the rest of the world and adapt the metricsystem?” Dick jokes.

Probably the most surprising aspect aboutthis story is that Dick would consider selling thecar. “I don’t really know if I will keep the car.”Dick owns other classic cars and doesn’t want tokeep the car from someone who really lovesSpitfires. He assured me he purchased it to keepit from falling into uncaring hands. “I have it in agood, secure storage now and will not make anydecisions as to its future until next spring.” Thecar located in Sainte Agathe des Monts, QuebecCanada, about an hour’s drive north of Montreal.

Maybe in the new year, we will be as luckyas Dick was finding this car. If not, seriousinquiries can e-mailed to him at [email protected].


Feature Story


Feature Story

REMOVALFirst remove the left seat. This is done by

sliding the seat all the way back and taking outthe two screws (7/16") at the front of the tracks.The rear of the tracks has two screws that can bereached by sliding the seats all the way forward.Lift out the seat,

The trim pieces around the transmission

tunnel must be removed. Take out the 4 screwsholding in the tunnel cover and the 2 screwsholding on the knee pads. Next remove the lowerdash support. It is held in place at the top twoscrews (phillips screwdriver) and at the bottomby four bolts (1/2"). Remove the shift knob.

The carpeting covering the transmission tunnel needs to be removed. Next remove thetransmission tunnel. It is held in place with 4 setscrews on each side and 4 on the back against thefirewall (8mm).

The slave cylinder is now easily accessible.Start by loosening the bleed valve (7/16"),

Slave Cylinder ReplacementBY PAUL MCAFEE

There is good and bad news associated with doing this job. The good is that the repair is extremelyeasy to accomplish. The bad news is that it will take a full day to get to it and reassemble everythingwhen the job is completed. Don’t bother looking for an easy way. There isn’t one.This story illustrates theprocedure. Socket sizes are in parenthesis after the item it fits.


Maintenance

ToolsREQUIRED:

phillips screwdriver

large flat screwdriver

socket wrenches

open-ended wrench

brake fluid

slave cylinder rebuild kitOPTIONAL:

new slave cylinder

draining the system and the remove the valve.Remove the hydraulic pipe (7/16") and push itclear of the cylinder. Then remove the locatingbolt, nut and washer (1/2"). The cylinder may bedifficult to slide out. A large screwdriver wedgedinto to slot in the side of the housing shouldloosen it.

INSPECTIONRemove the dust cover retainer and the dust

cover. The retainer may require a pipe wrenchwith a gentle twisting motion while pulling forremoval. Next remove the circlup. The plungerwill either side out easily or can be helped alongby tapping the whole cylinder against a woodensurface. Remove the spring. Clean all parts thor-oughly with brake fluid. Never use gasoline orother petroleum based solvents as they damagerubber.

The first thing that needs to be determined is wether the cylinder is repairable. Carefullyinspect the rubber parts. If there any splits orcracks, there is a good chance that all that needsto be changed is the rubber. Run your fingerinside the cylinder feeling for scratches or pit-ting. If there is minor scratches, try using a finesteel wool the buff them out. Thoroughly washthe inside with brake fluid to remove ALL tracesof metal flakes. If the pits are too deep a newcylinder must be purchased.

REBUILDRebuilding is a rather easy process. Start by

fitting a new rubber seal to the plunger with thefat end away from the metal end. Insert the


Maintenance

While it is out...there are some things that you should consider doing while you have access tothis area.

CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION FLUIDDrain the fluid out of bottom and replace the plug. Open the filler plug on theright side to transmission and fill until fluid just trickles out.

REINSULATE TRANSMISSION TUNNELAfter a while the insulation inside the transmissiontunnel rots away or falls out. Staple or glue in newinsulation. Don’t forget that it will be exposed to theelements so waterproof it with plastic sheeting.

REBUSH THE SHIFTER KNOBShifter getting sloppy? Rebush it. The parts can bepurchased individually or as a kit.

OIL CAPACITY

without overdrive 1.8 pints, .85l

with overdrive 2.85 pints, 1.35l

TORQUE SETTINGS

Drain plug: Mk4-20ft/lbs, 1500-25 ft/lbs

Filler plug: Mk4-20ft/lbs, 1500-25 ft/lbs

1962-74

1973-

SPRING

PLUNGER

RUBBER SEAL

CIRCLIP

DUST COVER

BLEED NIPPLECAP

DUST COVER RETAINER

spring fat end first. Wash the inside of the cylin-der with brake fluid then insert the plunger rub-ber side first. Fit the retaining spring, dust coverand then the cover retainer.

REFITWhen refitting the cylinder, start by

centralizing the push rod in the housing. Push theslave cylinder into the housing with the push rodgoing into the dust cover. Line up the grove withthe hole and place the bolt in through the top holeand tighten the nut.

BLEEDING THE SYSTEM

The hardest part aboutbleeding is the tendency torun out of fluid. Theprocess is so easy that youjust forget to check thelevel. Better yet, ask anassistant to monitor thelever while you work. Startby filling the reservoir withnew, clean brake fluid.Next place a small, prefer-ably clear tube on the bleed

nipple. Putthe otherend of thetube into acup partiallyfilled withfluid.Loosen thenipple one turn. Depress the clutch pedal fullyand let it return without assistance. Repeat with afew second pause between depressions. Noticethe fluid going into the cup. When a solid streamis emitted from the tube without any air bubbles,hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the nipple.

The clutch pedal shouldfeel firm and clearly disengage the clutch. Ifnot, repeat the bleedingprocess. Don’t forget tocheck the fluid level.

REFITTING EVERYTHING ELSE

Refitting all the interior parts is done inthe reverse order thatthey were removed.


Maintenance

Cool ToolIs there anything more difficult than trying to bleed brakes by myself. I try to get the wife to help

and can’t figure out why she gets so frustrated. If this sounds like you well I have found the tool foryou. It is call the Mityvac® from Prism Enterprises. It is a hand held pump that pulls the fluid throughthe system. It pulls about 1 cu. in. of fluid with each stroke, pulling out dirt, old fluid and air. It devel-ops and hold approximately 25 inches of vacuum. TheMinivac comes in kit form with multiple sizes of tubingand enough adapters that it will fit on almost any sys-tem. The Minivac’s big brother, the Mityvac, comeswith a vacuum gauge built into the top. It will do all ofthe above plus many engine related vacuum test. It canact as a compression tester, fuel pressure tester, andmany other helpful ignition and carburetor tests.

The Minivac sells for about $30 from specialty automotive tools companies like Eastwood Company

(www.EastwoodCompany.com, 800-820-9042)

It had been months since thepoor little green Spitfire had left thegarage for more than getting anewspaper on a Sunday morning. It was such a beautiful fall day.Time was right to treat the Spit toan afternoon drive!

Wanting the whole family totake advantage of this relaxingoccasion, I loaded up my wife Sallyand our dog Blauser, and we headedout...destination the Great SmokyMountains National Park inGatlinburg, Tennessee.

As I turned the key - to my sur-prise the engine fired first try. TheNationalPark is onlyabout a 30

minute drive from our house. A rather long jour-ney in Spitfire time, but the Spit felt up for it. AsI drove up onto Interstate 40 vibrating just a bitfrom an tire balance, or air pressure problem,there was no better feeling than to be greeted bypeople in passing cars waiving at my Spitfire.They must be remising about the days theyowned a sleek “sports car”. The combination ofother drivers’ attention, the wind cutting smooth-ly through my hair, Blauser’s figurehead posewith his chin in air behind Sally’s seat, this waswhat the Spitfire ownership was all about. I musthave looked like a genius at this moment to Sallywith the low acquisition cost I had given for thisgreen machine. She seemed to be taking in themoment...slowly sinking into her seat. She really

appeared to be enjoying herself andforgetting about all the times she hadnagged me about the parts-car in thebackyard, parts laying all over the

garage, having to park her car outside for thenight, and all the times she proudly proclaimed“will you ever get this thing running”. It wasrunning now and we were off to the mountainsfor a great afternoon.

For those of you who have never been to theGreat Smoky Mountains, before you reach thebeautiful National Park there is a stretch oftourist “traps’ for about 12 miles consisting oftheaters, restaurants, motels, amusements, stores,and other various attractions. The area drawsabout 11 million visitors a year which meansmany times these little mountain roads arebumper to bumper. Today was one of those days.

As I sat in traffic inching up little by little, I began to smell that dreaded burning scent that

The All Day “30 minute drive”BY TIM JOHNSON


On the Road Again

haunts car owners. Was it the brakes from ridingin the heavy traffic ...or was that the clutch wear-ing hard smell were I was off the clutch moving afew feet than on the clutch stopping? I knew itwasn’t a good aroma and this Spit needed abreak, not to mention it could use a bit offuel. The gas gauge was readinglow and the gas I had in the carwas probably six monthsold. Do any stations stillsell regular leaded gas?Not any more. I decid-ed to filler up withpremium unleaded atabout 93 octane. Itmight help clean out thecar’s cobwebs and buildmy performance and milesper gallon quota. After $11.00or 9 gallons of gas, a couple sand-wiches, bags of chips, cold cokes, and a beefjerky for Blauser, we were ready to resume thecruising. Feeling gutsy, I thought we would driveup to Clingman’s Dome would show theSpitfire’s stuff (one of the highest points in thepark with a nice 1/2 mile hiking trail to an obser-

vation tower. Just on theTennessee North Carolinaborder.) A slow creepingslope of about 15 miles upthe mountain with light traf-fic would highlight this daysjourney. After all, the badsmells had dissipated and ifthe car has problems up ontop... I could always coastthe Spitfire to the bottomand the Park entrance.

We began the long 15mile tedious ascent of theGreat Smoky Mountains toour planned destination ofClingman’s Dome. I use theword tedious because theGreen Spitfire’s power hadmuch to be desired.Although the slope was not

that steep 6% grade or so, the car just did notwant to move at any “Indy” style pace. It justseemed to be flat, bogging down. I thought Imight have to buy a parade permit if any morecars began lining up behind me, as we slowly

proceeded up the mountain road. Inoticed the temperature gauge

appearing to be a littlehigh and now there

seemed the return of another odorousdistraction. Thistime I wasn’t toconcerned aboutthe smell, because

I believe it wascoming from Blauser

from eating that beef,but the high temp on an

incline was not settling. Justahead I saw a scenic overlook. Great place

to stop, let the ‘parade’ proceed by, air out thecar, walk Blauser and let it cool off.

It was a beautiful fall day. A great day in thepark. The car was motoring a bit better for thefinishing stretch of the climb as we reached the


On the Road Again

plateau and parking lot for Clingman’s Dome.The hike to the observation deck would take anhour or two, leaving plenty of time for the drive home for the evening we had planned at the theater.

After the hike, the drive down was turningout to be much more fun - handling the car like amovie chase scene on the winding mountainousroads. The steering was good and the car hadmuch more pep going downhill. We were practi-cally to the bottom of the mountain after 15 milesof a rather good road, about to exit the NationalPark when it happened. The left rear tire justblew out. Completely shred-ded. It almost looked like therubber had rotted and the tireedges just disintegrated.Disgusting. Fortunately, wewere right at the welcomecenter parking lot, as I wasable to limp the car into thelot for a tire change. Nicething about Spitfires is thetires are not that difficult tochange - if you have yourjack and tools. Thank good-ness my car still had its thejack and the tire tool. I hadused the jack many timesbefore, and knew how itworked. Might want to checkto be sure your car has itsjack and tire tool and that the spare has air. Atthis moment the nice thing was my tire had beenchanged. The bad thing was my thoughts beganto wander - to the fact that I still had 30 miles tohome and the other 3 tires were in a similar con-dition as the first. With no second spare in thetrunk, it wouldn’t matter a bit how easy or howwell the jack and tire tool worked. I would neverhear the end of it from Sally. I tried hard not tothink about it as we drove back through thetourist area... heading for Interstate 40 and thefinal stretch home.

After 4 hours of driving, hiking and spendinga awesome day with the Spitfire, my wife Sallyand my dog Blauser, the final 10 mile stretch of

Interstate 40 proved to be too much. Less than 10miles from home... out of no-where as we wererelaxing and cruising home the Green machinejust quit. Cutout completely. Died. I repeatedlytried to get it started but it would not fire. I spentan exhausting two hours under the hood tryingeverything as I listened to Sally quickly forgetabout the great afternoon’s enjoyment, andrelapse into her ‘nagging the Spitfire’ ways. Tofuel her disdain of my little green car, was thefact it was I had to beg a friend to tow us home. I was willing to try to push it 10 miles, but it wasgetting late, and Sally was oh so ever remindful

of the time and our evening theater engagement.So, after one great afternoon drive, $25 for

gas and drinks, and a evening out, the Spitfire sitsquietly in the garage ready to be repaired, furtherrestored, and again made ready for a drive. Nexttime...I think we’ll go to the beach.

P.S. Later investigation reveled the rotor inthe distributor disintegrated. Add another $3 tothe day’s tally.

T h i s s t o r y w a s s u b m i t t e d b y T i m J o h n s o no f F a r r a g u t , T e n n e s s e e U S A . I f y o u h a v e as p i t f i r e j o u r n e y t o s h a r e . E - m a i l i t t oi n f o @ T r i u m p h s p i t f i r e . c o m o r m a i l i t w i t h p h o t o s t o S p i t f i r e M a g a z i n e P . O . B o x 3 0 8 0 6K n o x v i l l e , T N 3 7 9 3 0

E v e r y o n e w i t h a S p i t f i r e h a s a s t o r y ! !


On the Road Again

NorthAmericaARIZONADesert Centre Triumph Register6434 E. Corrine Dr., Scottsdale AZ85254

Tucson AreaP.O. Box 5156, Tucson, AZ 85703-0156

ARKANSASBritish Motoring Club of ArkansasP.O. Box 22865, Little Rock, AR 72221

CALIFORNIACentral Coast British Car ClubP.O. Box 503, Ventura, CA 93002

Southern California Triumph Owners Assoc.7250 McCool Ave, Westchester, CA 90045

Triumph Register of Southern California20929 Lassen St. #112, Chatsworth, CA91311

Triumph Sports Car Club of San DiegoP.O. Box 84342, San Diego, CA92138-0633

Triumph Travelers Sports Car ClubP.O. Box 60314, Sunnyvale, CA94088-0314

COLORADORocky Mountain Triumph Club6821 S. Forest St., Littleton, CO 80122

CONNECTICUTConnecticut Triumph RegisterP.O. Box 521, Southington, CT 06489

FLORIDACentral Florida Triumph Register102 Garfield Road, Deltona, FL 32725

Gold Coast Triumph ClubP.O. Box 10451, Pompano Beach, FL 33060

Temple of TriumphRt. 4, Box 155, Westville, Florida 32464

Triumph Club of North Florida1900 Kusaie Drive, Jacksonville, FL32246

Triumph Standard Motor Club2518 Lk. Ellen Cir., Tampa, FL 33618

GEORGIAGeorgia Triumph Association1824 Vermillion Bay Circle, Duluth, GA30097

IDAHONorthwest British Classics1924 Lakeside Ave., Coeur D, Alene, ID83814

ILLINOISCentral Illinois Triumph Owners Assoc.1406 Winding Lane, Champaign, IL 61820

Illinois Sports Owners Association23 Elmhurst Avenue, Crystal Lake, IL 60014

ILLINOIS/IOWAQuad Cities British Auto Club4828 47th Avenue, Moline, IL 61265

INDIANAIndiana Triumph Cars7510 Allisonville Rd., Indianapolis, IN 46250

IOWAHawkeye TriumphsP.O. Box 81, Hiawatha, IA 52233-0081

KANSAS/MISSOURIKansas City Triumphs1315 NE 69th St., Gladstone MO, 64118

KENTUCKYBritish Sports Car Club Louisville208 East Morrison St., Wilmore, KY 40390

LOUISIANABritish Motoring Club - New OrleansP.O. Box 13803, New Orleans, LA 70185

MASSACHUSETTSWestern Massachusetts Triumph Assocation5 Louise Avenue, Easthampton, MA 01027

MICHIGANDetroit Triumph Sports Car Club8972 Deborah Ct. E., Livonia, MI 48150

Michigan Triumph Association9349 South Westnedge, Kalamazoo, MI 49002

MINNESOTAMinnesota TriumphsP.O. Box 201054, Bloomington, MN 55420

MISSISSIPPIEnglish Motoring Club - CentralMississippi Chapter VTRP.O. Box 5263, Jackson, MS 39216

MISSOURISt. Louis Triumph Owners Association321 Peeke, Kirkwood, MO 63122

NEBRASKANebraska Triumph Drivers (c/o B. Redinger)1014 N. 127 Avenue, Omaha, NE 68154

NEVADABritish Auto Club of Las Vegas16 Barton Spring Circle, Henderson, NV 89121

NEW ENGLANDBritish Motorcars, FTR., LTD of NewEngland404 Spring Street, P.O. Box 666, No. Dighton, MA 02764-0666

New England Triumphs6 Island Cove Drive, Eliot, ME 03903-1508

NEW JERSEYBritish Motor Club of Southern NewJersey13 Fox Hollow Drive, Cherry Hill, NJ 08003

New Jersey Triumph AssociationP.O. Box 6, Gillette, NJ 07933

NEW YORKAdirondack Triumph AssociationP.O. Box 13481, Albany, NY 12212-3481

Finger Lakes Triumph Club49 Caroline Depot Rd, Brooktondale,NY 14817

Long Island Triumph Association14 Churchill Dr, Brentwood, NY 11717

Syracuse Area101 Vieau Drive, Syracuse, NY 13207-1121

NORTH & SOUTH CAROLINASoutheastern British Motorcar Owners ClubP.O. Box 1274, Gramling, SC 29348

Triumph Club of the Carolinas100 Chinaberry Lane, Angier, NC 27501

OHIOMiami Valley Triumphs879 Heatherstone Dr., Forest Park, OH 45240-2545

North Coast Triumph Association5891 State Route 82, Hiram, OH 44234

OKLAHOMACentral Oklahoma Vintage Triumph RegisterP.O. Box 12272, Oklahoma City, OK 73157-2272

Green Country Triumphs13415 S. 127th E. Ave, Broken Arrow,OK 74011

OREGONPortland Triumph Owners AssociationP.O. Box 5516, P.o.rtland, OR 97228

PENNSYLVANIACentral Pennsylvania Triumph ClubP.O. Box 7001, Mechanicsburg, PA17055

Delaware Valley Triumphs, LTD1430 Old West Chester Pike, West Chester, PA 19382

Keystone Triumphs, LTDP.O. Box 490, 3175 Center & ChurchSts, Springtown, PA 18081-0490

Western Pennsylvania TriumphAssociation105 Hawk Drive Glenshaw, PA 15116

TENNESSEEBlount British Cars Ltd.231 Leniz Dr., Maryville, TN 37803

TEXASEl Paso Triumph Club1641 Bert Green Drive, El Paso, TX 79936-5301

Hill Country Triumph Club8006 Bernard Street, Volente, TX 78641

Red River Triumph ClubP.O. Box 2533, McKinney, TX 75070-2533

South Texas Triumph Association5306 La Cieniga, San Antonio, TX 78233

Texas Triumph RegisterP.O. Box 40847, Houston, TX 77240-0847

UTAHBritish Motor Club of Utah1419 South 900 East, Salt Lake City, UT 84105

VERMONTVermont Centre of British Motorcars4 Farmstead Dr., Shelburne, VT 05482

VIRGINIABlue Ridge Triumphs3960 Bower Rd, SW, Roanoke, VA 24018-2933

Richmond Triumph Register10204 Warren Road, Glen Allen, VA 23060

Tidewater Triumph Register3437 Petunia Crescent, Virginia Beach,VA 23456

WASHINGTONTyee Triumph ClubP.O. Box 27668, Seattle, WA 98125-2668

WASHINGTON, D.C.Capital Triumph Register3008 South 2nd St, Arlington, VA 22204

WISCONSINVintage Triumphs of Wisconsin, LTDW330 S3435 Bryn Mawr Road,Dousman, WI 53118-9719

CanadaBRITISH COLUMBIABritish Columbia Triumph Registry32248 Autumn Avenue, Abbotsford, BC,V2T 1P3

MANITOBATriumph Drivers Club476 Borebank Street, Winnipeg,Manitoba, R3N 1E7

ONTARIOOntario Triumph Club166 Church Street, Thamesford, Ontario,Canada N0M 2M0

Toronto Triumph ClubP.O. Box 39, Ontario, M3C 2RG

EuropeAUSTRIASpitfire Club AustriaContact: Ing. Thomas Schmidt,Braunhubegasse 7/1/7, A-1110 Wien

English Sports Car ClubContact: Postfach 413, A-1171 Wien

Triumph Stag Club AustriaContact: R.P. Cavanara, Leiding 4, A-2823 Pitten,Tel.: 02627/83735

TR-Register AustriaA-1232 WIEN, Stipcakgasse 9-17/15 Tel.: 43 1 609 20 41

BELGIUMBelgian Triumph ClubASBL, 29 Rue de l’Ardenne, B-5024Marche-Les-Dames, Tel.: 32-81-58.17.36

Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register BelgiumBoomlaarstraat 132, B-2500 Lier, Tel.: 10 32 34803417

TR Register BelgiumHoogboomsteenweg 83, B-2950Kapellen, Tel.: 10 32 36654229

Triumph Sport Six Club BelgiumLeikersteenweg 166, B-3700Tongeren, Tel.: 10 321 2233476

DENMARKDansk Triumph AutomobilclubSkovvaenget 8, DK-8680 Ry,Tel.: 45 8689 8323


Spitfire and Triumph Clubs

Triumph Club DenmarkContact: Gorm Schmidt, Tel.: 45 46 757644

FINLANDTriumph Cars Club of FinlandPasi J. Lehtinen, Krootilantie22, FIN-27510 Eura, Tel.: 358 38 865 0299

FRANCEAmicale Spitfire, the FrenchSpitfire ClubGarmeaux 35150 Janz

Stag Club France32 rue E Jacquette, F-60200 Compiegne

TR Register France38 rue Breilieau, F-75016 Paris, Tel.: 10 33 1 45 534454

Triumph Club de France29 Allee des Forgerons 78310Coignieres, Tel.: 01.34.61.79.03

Triumph Sport Six Club France138 rue de Kater, F-33000 Bourdeaux, Tel.: 10 33 56 240167

GERMANYSpitfire Club DeutschlandsOliver Poguntke, 80993,Muenchen, Wittenberger Str. 21,Tel.: 089/4394134

Triumph Stag Club DeutschlandD-70825 Korntal, Deckerstr. 31,Tel.: 49 711 833887

Triumph-IG-Suedwest-eVKohlhofweg 9, 69259 Wilhelmsfeld, Tel.: 49 6220-1636

TR7 IGHohenstaufenstr 20, D-71638Ludwigsburg, Tel.: 9 7141/926035

TR Register Deutschland e.V.Im Barn 5, D-30916 Isernhagen,Tel.: 49 5139 894076

GREECETriumph Sport Six Club GreeceMegalapoleos 23-Adames, N. Kifisia,GR-14564 Athen, Tel.: 10 30 1 807 6921

IRELANDTR Register Ireland7 Bellevue Heights, Greystones,CoWicklow, Tel.: Dublin 2876449

ITALYTriumph Spitfire Italian RegisterRedeschera 9, 25017 Lonato,Tel.: 39 30 9913595

NETHERLANDSClub Triumph HollandNL-6862 GT Oosterbeek,Emmastraat 20, Tel.: 31 26 333 2779

Stag Club NetherlandsGroooenhof 372, NL-1186 GMAmstelveen

TR Club HollandHanenburglaan 76, NL-2565 GW DenHaag, Tel.: 32 0 70 3634713

TR Drivers ClubPijperlaan 40, NL-3335 XHZwijndrecht, Tel.: 31 78 101825

Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 RegisterNetherlandsAkkerwinde 216, NL-2906 XL, Capelle,A/D Ijssell,Rotterdam, Tel.: 31 10 4420211 or 4331710

Triumph Spitfire Club NetherlandsDommelstraat 24, NL-4105ZCCulemborg, Tel.: 0031 345 5 21 34 2

Triumph Sport Six Club NetherlandsEmma Straat 20, NL-6062 GTOosterbeek,Tel.: 10 318 533 2797

NORWAYTR Register NorwayHissingbydalen, N-1640 Rade,Tel.: 47 69 284391

Triumph Sport Six Club NorwayBispeveien 78, N-1347 Hasle,Tel.: 47 476 714 9510

PORTUGALTriumph Club de PortugalUrb. da Portela Lt 180 BAD,2685 SACAVEM, Tel.: 01 943 30 02

Triumph TR Register PortugalUrb Portela, Lt 142, 6 Dto,2685 Sacavem

Triumph Sport Six Club PortugalRua Thomas Da Annunciciacao 3-4-DT,1300 Lisboa, Tel.: 10 351 1397 2854

SPAINTR Register SpainEstrellas 14, 28244 Pozuelo de Alarcon, Tel.: 34 1 7155824SWEDENTriumph Club of SwedenRonnebyvagen 260, S-374 30Karlshamn, Tel.: 46 1731 7131

Triumph TR Club SwedenP O Box 7400, S-103 91Stockholm, Sweden, Tel.: 46 13 14 08 55

SWITZERLANDSwiss Triumph Herald und Vitesse ClubHuegelistr 8, CH-9535 Wilen bei Wil, Tel. priv: 073/234334, office:073/233360

Triumph Spitfire Club SchweizCH-4852 Murgenthal, Tel.: 41/62/926 31 06

Triumph Stag Club SwitzerlandZulgstrasse 52, CH-3612 Steffisburgl, Tel.: 41 33 37 38 86

UKClub Triumph2 Brook Way, Christchurch, DorsetBH23 4HA, Tel.: 44 1425 274193

Club Triumph Eastern17 Cranborne Gardens, Upminster,Essex RM14 2YT

The Pre - 1940 Triumph Owners Club40 Van Diemans Road, Chelmsford,Essex CM2 9QQTel.: 4 245 347366

Stag Owners ClubThe Old Rectory, Aslacton, Norfolk,NR15 2JN, Tel.: 44 1332 553087

Triumph 2000/2500 Owners’ Club52 Trinity Avenue, Northampton NN2 6JN, Tel: 01604 716435

Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register UK42 Hall Orchards, Middleton, Kings Lynn, Norfolk PE32 1RY,Tel.: 44 1553 841700

TR Drivers Club3 Blackberry Close, Abbeymead,Gloucester GL47BS, Tel.: 44 1452 614234

Triumph Mayflower Club19 Broadway North, Walsall, West Midlands WS1 2QG, Tel.: 44 1922-633042

TR Register UK1B Hawksworth, Southmead IndustrialPark, Didcot, Oxon OX11 7HR, Tel.: 44 1235 818866

The Triumph Dolomite Club39 Mill Lane, Arncott, Bicester, Oxon OX6OPB, Tel.: 44 1869 242847

The Triumph Razoredge Owners Club LTD16 Ruskin Drive, Worcester Park, SurreyKT4 8LG

The Triumph Roadster ClubByron Cottages, 61 Coulsdon Road, Old Coulsdon, Surrey, CR5 2LD, Tel.: 44 17375 56553

Triumph Sports Six ClubMain Street, Lubenham, MarketHarborough, Leicestershire, LE16 9TF, Tel.: 44 (0)1858 434424

TheWorldAFRICATriumph Sports Car Club of South AfricaP.O. Box 1317 Johannesburg 2000,Tel.: 27-11-462 3060

AUSTRALIATriumph Car Club of the ACTP.O. Box 70, Curtin, ACT 2605

Triumph Car Club of Victoria, IncP.O. Box 336, Malvern VIC 3144

TR Register AustraliaContact: Wes Dayton, 46 CatalpaCrescent, Turramurra, NSW

Triumph Sports Owners Association,TSOA - NSWP.O. Box 200 Gordon NSW 2072

TSOA - VictoriaContact: G.P.O Box 5020Y MelbourneVIC. 3001

TSOA - Queensland1376 Old Cleveland Road CarindaleQLD. 4152

TSOA - Western AustraliaP.O. Box 257 Nedlands WA 6009

TSOA - South AustraliaP.O. Box 192 Glenside SA 5065


Spitfire and Triumph Clubs

Coming next Issue... ClassifiedsGot something to sell? Need something? List it here and on the TriumphSpitfire.com website. Classifieds are free to subscribers and a minimal fee for non-subscribers. Visit TriumphSpitfire.com/Classified.html for details.

Get listed!If you would like you club listed here and on theTriumphSpitfire.com website, write to us SpitfireMagazine, P.O. Box 30806, Knoxville, TN 37930 USA orpost it online at TriumphSpitfire.com/ClubSubmit.html.

Show Your Pride!1001 Bi-color Shirt $29

100% cotton pique knit with contrasting colored collar, sleaves

and embroidery. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X (add$3 for 2X & 3X)Colors (body/contrast):Maroon/navy (shown),Birch/black, Forest/navy,Maize/forest, Red/navy,Grey/navy, Navy/forest,White/forest, White/navy

▲

Cotton T-Shirt $15100% cotton pre-shrunkHanes Beefy T®. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2X (add $2 for 2X)Colors: Grey, Forest,Natural, Navy, White, Black,Red, Teal, Yellow.

▲

4003 Bi-color Ball Cap $156 panel, low profile, adjustable to fit all.Colors: Red/black, Black/black, Spruce/black,Navy/black, Lemon yellow/black, Silver/black

▲

3002 Classic Jacket $49Sizes: M, L, XL, 2X (add $5 for 2X) Water repel-lent Supplex® shell with nylon lining. Zipperedfront and storm flap. Colors (body/contrast):Red/navy, Black/khaki, Forest//khaki, Navy//khaki

▲

Show Your Pride!

P.O. Box 30806Knoxville, TN 37930-0806 US

us:1-800-487-3333europe: 011-1-865-69-0522

for other Triumph clothing visit our websitewww.triumphspitfire.com/autowear

Spitfire Magazine

Special Offer

Mention this ad and get 10% your orderShipping: US add $7, Europe $12, others call, FedEx available for 2X regular rate.

All prices are in US dollars. We accept Visa & Mastercard

INSIDE THIS ISSUE Brand New Spitfire? the World Replacement

Documents

Transcript of INSIDE THIS ISSUE Brand New Spitfire? the World Replacement