Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed...

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Innovations in Polymeric COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

Transcript of Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed...

Page 1: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

Innovations inPolymeric

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

Page 2: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

HYDROGELSAquatrix II hydrogel products developed and patented by Hydromer, Inc., consist of two highlybiocompatible, water-soluble polymers supplied individually in an aqueous solution. The gel is formedwhen the two solutions are mixed together, no other process steps or additives are needed. This uniquecapability makes the Aquatrix II hydrogels extremely versatile for cosmetic formulations as compared toother commercially available hydrogels that often require irradiation, heat or chemical catalysts thatcan destroy many cosmetic actives. The Aquatrix II hydrogels are ideal for a wide range of cosmetictreatments including facial masks, moisturizers, lotions and therapeutic patches or wraps. They havealso found extensive use in the medical field for wound care, burn dressings and drug delivery.Hydromer has the capability to support your development from concept to finished product, includingprocess development of coated products in our pilot coating lab.

ALLERGEN-BLOCKERThe DermaSeal allergen-blocker polymer system is comprised of a patented synergistic combination ofbiocompatible naturally derived ingredients that provide a thin invisible film on the skin. DermaSealimproves the spreadability and consistency of foundations and makeup, while lubricating andmoisturizing the skin. DermaSeal provides skin protection against harmful environmental factors suchas allergens, pollutants, poisonous plants and chemicals. DermaSeal allergen-blocker is ideal especiallyfor sensitive skin care products, sunscreens, lotions and is currently being sold to cosmetic companiesas a base for foundations and as a poison oak and ivy barrier.

Hydromer, Inc., has a class of hydrophobic polymer systems called “AQUAMERE” for cosmeticapplications. Aquamere polymer systems are formulated with biocompatible materials for forminginterpolymers with unique rheological and film forming properties. The polymer’s film formationproperties help maintain active ingredients on the application site by imparting resistance to abrasionor rub-off. Aquamere technology is ideal for various cosmetic applications providing multifunctionalcapabilities that can satisfy unique cosmetic functional requirements such as water and rub-offresistance, adhesion to skin, moisture barrier, actives and pigment binding.

AQUAMERE®

AQUATRIX® II

RHEOLOGICAL MODIFIERS

The BeAqua line consists of water-based viscosity modifiers with very effective rheological behaviors.BeAqua™ 200 exhibits a pronounced thixothropic behavior with fast recovery.BeAqua™300 shows a strong rheopex fluid dynamic.Both have strong water resistivity even after several minutes while still in a formative stage.

INCI NAME: Alcohol/Hydroxypropylcellulose/PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Distearate

INCI NAME: PVP/Carboxymethyl Chitosan

INCI NAME: H-Series - PVP/Polycarbamyl/Polyglycol EsterA-Series - PVP/Polycarbamyl/Polyglycol EsterC-Series - PVP/Dimethiconylmethacrylate/Polycarbamyl/Polyglycl EsterD-Series - PVP/Dimethiconylmethacrylate/Polycarbamyl/Polyglycl Ester

HYDROGEL COSMETICINGREDIENTS

Page 3: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

ALLERGEN-BLOCKERThe DermaSeal polymer system is a synergistic combination of biocompatible, naturally derived ingredients, which form a thin,continuous film on skin. DermaSeal allergen-blocker was developed for use in lotions, creams, sprays and ointments. DermaSealserves as a skin barrier to common irritants, i.e. detergents and plant derivatives. This dermatologically compatible barrier,hydrophilic, nonionic, film former is commonly used in cosmetic applications for their moisturizing and anti-irritancyproperties.

PropertiesDermaSeal allergen-blocker is a moisturizing polymer system which provides a thin invisible continuous film on the skin.DermaSeal improves the spreadability and consistency of foundations and makeup, while lubricating and moisturizing the skin.DermaSeal provides the value added property of skin protection against harmful environmental factors such as pollutants,poisonous plants and chemicals.

PerformanceDermaSeal, allergen-blocker, was developed to serve as a skinbarrier to common irritants. Upon contact with the skin, allergenspromote an immune response resulting in visible skin irritation. Inorder to examine its potential effectiveness as a barrier, DermaSeal,allergen-blocker, was tested using Attenuated Total ReflectanceInfrared Spectroscopy (ATR-IR). The technique (illustrated below)measures the rate of permeation of an allergen or other irritantthrough the barrier film. Upon passage through the film, irritantsare detected using infrared radiation.

Using the ATR-IR technique, films of several currently marketedproducts, which claim skin protection, and several formulationsdeveloped in the laboratory including DermaSeal, were examinedfor permeability to the following known irritants:

• Disulfides (benzyl disulfide)

• Detergents (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate)

• Rubber Constituents (1,4- Phenylenediamine)

• Plant Derivatives (Catechol)

Differences in breakthrough times (or protection) through films ofthe formulations were noted for each irritant. For the plant irritant,protection times ranged from 0.5-2 hr for commercial products Aand B formulations and 8 hrs for DermaSeal, allergen-blocker.(Note: maximum testing time was 8 hours). The results are shownon the left.

Applications• Hypo-allergenic / sensitive skin products• Skin and sun care products• Color cosmetics• Industrial hygiene and safety• Topical active ingredient delivery

Product Benefits• Improves substantivity of actives in foundationmakeup, sunscreens and anti-bacterial products

• Provides unique “after feel” and sheencharacteristic in skin care products

• Reduces tackiness in formulations

• Improves the lubricity of formulations

• Film forming barrier to common irritants, greaseand oil

• Excellent affinity to skin

SKIN

AllergenIrritation

ImmuneResponse

ZnSe CrystalBARRIER FILM

Allergen

Infrared Beam Detection of Allergen

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6

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2

0Plant

Irritant

Prot

ectio

n Ti

me

(hou

rs)

RubberConstituent

Detergent Disul!de

10

Dermaseal Product A Product B

Page 4: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

HYDROGELSAquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They arebased on a unique combination of PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone) and Chitosan. PVP interacts withChitosan to form a hydrogel with three-dimensional structure that results in superior cohesive andelastic properties. Since Aquatrix II cosmetichydrogels require no irradiation or heat for gelformation, active ingredients and biomoleculescan be readily incorporated without impairingtheir biological activity.

Aquatrix II hydrogels are biocompatible andare non-irritating to the skin. Both theviscoelastic and bioresorption profiles can bemodified to reveal unique rheologicalproperties for a broad range of applications.Aquatrix II hydrogels possess the ability toabsorb a large amount of water, whilemaintaining their three dimensional structure.

Aquatrix II hydrogels can be used as filmformers to create flexible films, can be coatedor laminated onto a substrate or molded to accommodate product design. The Aquatrix II hydrogelsbecome lubricious with water or saline absorption. They can be used as a thickener and an emulsionstabilizer.

When loaded with vitamins, phospholipids, astringents, alpha hydroxy acids and other activeingredients, Aquatrix II Cosmetic Hydrogels readily deliver a variety of active ingredients to the skinprecisely where intended – even close to eyes. These products are available in several product forms,including hydrogel-containing patch systems which permit the application of active ingredients tothe skin, without messy fingers, and ease of removal without leaving hydrogel residue on the skin.

AQUATRIX® II

AQUATRIX® II

Page 5: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

PerformanceCharacteristicsThe physical properties of Aquatrix II hydrogels can betailored to meet a variety of performance requirementsby varying levels of tack and gel strength. Whenmixed, gel formation begins immediately anddepending on the formulation it reaches maximum gelstrength within seconds or minutes. Aquatrix IIhydrogels may be deposited on or between flexiblesubstrates.

Aquatrix II hydrogels are film formers and moisturizersand provide a cooling and soothing sensation to theskin when applied as face masks and eye patches. Awide variety of additives or therapeutics can beincorporated into Aquatrix II hydrogel solutions. Ourhydrogels can be used as a topical delivery system foractives such as a magnesium ascorbyl phosphate(provitamin C active). The hydrogels will slowly releasethe active ingredients from the formed gel matrix.

Actives, which are soluble in oil or alcohol, may beincorporated into the gel. Water, glycerol or propyleneglycol soluble actives, are preferred for ease informulation. The unique skin adhesive properties ofAquatrix II hydrogels can be modified as required. TheAquatrix II hydrogel can easily be removed from skinwithout irritation or leaving a residue, unlike otherhydrogels. A number of biochemical publicationsindicate that besides the benign characteristic of thesegels, they also have promoted skin healing.

The recommended pH value for Aquatrix ranges from5-8, a lower pH is not recommended.

Applications•Eye patches / face masks

•Moisturizers / shampoos / conditioners/styling products

• Exfoliants

• Cosmetic additive carrier for anti-bacterial /anti-fungal / whitening agents / nourishingingredients / anti-oxidants / anti-wrinkleingredients and alike

•Topical active ingredient delivery

Product Benefits•Compatible with a broad range of cosmetic anddrug ingredients

•Cold processing to preserve unique activechemistries

• Excellent moisturizing properties

• Smooth, silky, non-greasy, residue-free feeling onthe skin

•Moisture barrier / cooling / soothing

• Imparts soothing and enhances healing of dry anddamaged skin

• Improves conditioning performance of shampoosand conditioners

•Gelling agent / viscosity modifier / emulsionstabilizer

Patent US 5420,197

AQUATRIX® II

Page 6: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

Aquamere polymer systems are a patented class of hydrophobic polymers developed by Hydromer, Inc.Aquamere polymer systems are formulated with biocompatible materials to form interpolymers with uniquerheological and film forming properties. Each polymer system has the ability to complex with a wide range oforganic molecules such as dyes, UV absorbers and active ingredient.

PropertiesAquamere technology is ideal for various cosmetic applications, providing multifunctional capabilities that cansatisfy unique cosmetic functional requirements such as water and rub-off resistance, adhesion to skin, flexibility,tack reduction, gloss, durability, moisture barrier, actives and pigment binding capabilities. Aquamere polymerpossess excellent spreading properties, which assist in forming coherent, continuous films. The polymers filmformation properties help maintain active ingredients on the site of application by imparting resistance toabrasion or rub-off.

Product Benefits• Water resistance• Film former• Imparts luster and sheen to skin care products• Immobilize dyes in hair colorant and UVabsorbers in sunscreen or dyes

• Add body and richness to skin lotions and haircare products

• Provides long-lasting moisturization• Compatible with a wide range of cosmeticingredients

• Wide range of product viscosities available• Substantivity of actives, and pigments for rub-off and water resistance

Applications• Skin and sun care products

• Color cosmetics

• Hair products (shampoo, conditioners,hairspray and mousses)

• Hair dyes / colorants

• Mascara

• Topical drug or active delivery

Product FormsThe Aquamere polymer system is comprised of fourdifferent series:

Water Base: H-SeriesAlcohol Base: A-SeriesSilicone Base: S-SeriesCationic Base: C-SeriesEach Aquamere series varies in physical properties andchemical composition. All polymers within each series canbe used effectively in concentrated or diluted forms and allhave the ability to complex with a wide range of activeingredients and organic molecules such as dyes and UVabsorbers.

PerformanceCharacteristicsHYDROPHOBICITY:Contact angle data for various film forming Aquamerepolymers is shown below. These film forming hydrophobiccharacteristics of a water based polymer make the Aquamerepolymers an excellent choice for cosmetic applications.

0

20

40

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S-Series C-Series H-Series

Con

tact

Ang

le (d

egre

e)

AQUAMERE®HYDROGEL COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

AQUAMERE®

Page 7: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

Water Resistance /Water ProofAquamere film forming properties and affinity to skinprovides water resistance to cosmetic formulations. This isan important property in sun care products where waterresistance is desirable. Water resistance property of theAquamere series is shown below.

The in-vitro water proof / water resistance of Hydromersunscreen lotion was measured using Vitro-Skin® substrate.

Individual SPF values for each sample were measuredbefore and after immersion in a controlled temperaturewater bath for 80 min. The results are shown below. Thesunscreen lotion is formulated with Aquamere S-Series.

Rheology ModifierAquamere ingredients act as rheology modifiers incosmetic formulations. In contrast to other modifiers,the viscosity in the end use formulation is notdependent on pH. The viscosity varies in eachAquamere series. The final formulation viscositydepends on the interaction of polymer hydrophobeswith specific moieties present in the formulation. Thisproperty adds body and richness to skin lotions and haircare products.

Shine and GlossThe Aquamere polymer, S-series contains a uniquesilicone copolymer, which improves lubricity offormulations and adds shine capabilities to hair careproducts. It has good spreading properties, which assiststhe formation of coherent, continuous films. Used inshampoos, conditioners, mousses and gels, the polymercoats hair evenly. Used in lipstick formulas it imparts anincrease in gloss and reduction in tack. Ideal for suncare product formulations, by aiding retention of UVAabsorbers and inorganic pigments, while providing sandproofing or abrasion resistance.

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apho

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(no water proofagent)

% S

PF R

emai

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Formulation+ oil phasewater proof

agent (PerformV

Formulationwith

Aquamere

Sunscreen withAquamere +

Perform V

Comparative SPF Retention – 80 Min Immersion

OriginalProduct Lot# ResultsS-3011 H13-06-31 4-severeS-2012/P H13-07-14 3-moderateS-2012/3 H13-06-26 4-severe

H-1212/J H13-08-03 1-slightH-1212/PF H13-06-30A 2-mild

C-1031 H13-06-22 3-moderate

S-2011/GL H13-07-15 4-severeH-1511 Not available

X-SeriesProduct Lot# ResultsS-3011X 2323-081 0-1 none to slightS-2012X 2323-009 0-1 none to slight

H-1212X 2322-002 0-none

C-1031X 2323-011 1-slightC-1031X 2323-006 0-1 none to slight

S-2011X 2323-031 n/aH-1511X 2323-010 0-1 none to slightH-1511X 2323-005 0-1 none to slight

AQUAMERE COSMETIC INGREDIENT CYTOTOXICITY

Our scientists have re-evaluated eight of our Aquamere products and restructured them to be free ofParabens, NMP and Formaldehyde.Tests have been done on the cytotoxicity of these products compared to the original products and fromthe chart below you can see the significant difference from zero to only slight cytotoxicity. Theseproducts can be identified by the letter “X” after the product number. If you would like to receive a sample please contact us.

NEW

Page 8: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

Rheological Modifier 200

200

The product exhibits thixothropic behavior as demonstrated by increases inviscosity with increasing Shear Stress.

200

Page 9: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

This water-soluble blend is compatible with a wide range of thickening agents toenhance and yield inversely to stress/strain (rheopex).

Incorporate 5% into your products to enhance characteristics and add body andrichness to skin lotions and hair care products such as conditioners.

Rheological Modifier 300

BEAQUA™ 300

BEAQUA™ 300

Page 10: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

Sample Formulations

Page 11: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of
Page 12: Innovations in Polymeric - · PDF fileHYDROGELS Aquatrix II cosmetic hydrogels are cold-formed gels requiring no additional curing energy. They are based on a unique combination of

Company ProfileHYDROMER SPECIALTY PRODUCTS

Hydromer is an innovative technology focused company engaged in the business of inventing, developing,patenting, licensing, manufacturing and selling hydrophilic polymer based products for the commercial markets.Hydromer is a leading provider of hydrophilic surface modification and specialty hydrophilic polymers toindustry. While maintaining its industry leadership position in permanent lubricious coatings for medicaldevices, Hydromer constantly strives to create new value added technologies to its current lines. Expansion ofthe technologies now includes water resistant film formers for cosmetics, pharmaceutical and animal healthproducts. In addition to cosmetic and medical applications, Hydromer has unique hydrogel and allergen barrierfilm technologies. Hydromer has numerous coatings technologies for glass, metals, optical plastics andpackaging, selling to many prominent customers both domestically and internationally.

U.S. PATENT NUMBERS FORCOSMETICS:AQUATRIX® II, 6379702, 5420197 andcorresponding foreign patents

DERMASEAL®: 5851540, 5837266,5888520, 6110475 and pending patentsand corresponding foreign patents

AQUAMERE®: 5258421, 5156601,4642267, 4769013, 4875287, 6054504and corresponding foreign patents

BEAQUA™ 200: 6395289, 6203812and corresponding foreign patents

BEAQUA™ 300: Patent pending

TOXICOLOGY, HANDLING & SAFETY:Toxicology information and Material Safety Data Sheets areavailable upon request from Hydromer, Inc.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT:Joan M. NewmanE-mail: [email protected]

Hydromer, Inc.35 Industrial Parkway, Branchburg, NJ 08876Phone: (908) 722-5000Fax: (908) 722-5024www.hydromer.comIn U.S Toll free 1-877-HYDROMER

Rev. June 2013