inGamba Ride Journal

Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | i

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EDITORI A L DIREC TION | Beth Strickland PUBLICATION DESIGN | Soo Kim COV ER PHOTOGR A PH Y | Brad Sauber COV ER SUBJEC T | inGamba guest Jason Liddell, 180km into the 2012 l’Eroica

inGamba Tours 268 East Blithedale Avenue Mill Valley, CA 94941 America

Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | v

This journal belongs to .

“ This was the trip that I thought only existed in my mind – a perfect blend of riding, eating, and experiencing the true culture of Tuscany – then toss in a great group of fellow riders and the arrival of a few unannounced guests from the pro peloton” | Michael Scher

1

What is the most delicious road you’ve ever ridden? Was there a meal that lay always before you like a spool of expensive ribbon unrolling to a far horizon that sometimes effortlessly drew you on and at others put you at your limit as you chased an end that seemed as if it would never come? Do you remember on a sun-drenched road reaching down to the cage for your bottle and getting a sip of water that was as fine as any wine you’ve ever had, and have you ever been lucky enough to taste a wine as intoxicating as a mouthful of cold water chugged from your bottle when you unclipped on a crisp early morning mountaintop?

The ride is the food is the wine is the people at inGamba. The roads are succulent and bountiful, and the food and wine leave you breathless. The Pinarello bikes are to the highest standard of the purest gourmand. The personalities are rich and bold, yet full of subtle surprises. All is to be savored—and devoured. You are sated—and hungry for one more hill, one more delicacy, one more unforgettable character, one more new lifelong friend, one more perfect descent on a perfect bike, one more chance to doze off on the massage table, to lounge on a patio overlooking a terra-cotta tiled roof that itself overlooks a green mountainside that overlooks a valley at the bottom of which a farmer practices his own art.

T H E F E A S T by Bill Strickland | Editor-at-Large | Bicycling Magazine | inGamba Guest

5

Zuilio, the neighbor just up the hill and around the corner makes his own wine from his own yard grapes. He insists you take a bottle. Lorenzo, the baker with one blue eye and one brown feeds you treats that are all delicious but each good in a way none of the others are. Raul stands at the end of the table and as he works into your muscles he lays his head against your knee and plucks and strums and hammers on you fiber by fiber, and if you happen to look down the length of your torso at him, you see that his eyes are closed. He is playing an instrument, and the instrument is you. You wish you could hear the song he is hearing. By the second morning when you walk into Enoteca Rinaldi, Paolo knows what coffee drink you want and is preparing it before you can ask for it. When he gives the cup across the counter to you, there is a manner in his movements that says you are doing him a great honor to drink his coffee.

Take all of that and turn it into a road, and that is every ride you will do. Have you ever had such a feast? You can. You should. You are about to.

7

It was an idea born on a ride in the fall of 2010 during my last season as a pro with the Cervélo Test Team. After spending the year living in Chianti, watching what I ate and focusing on my training, I realized I was unable to fully enjoy the bounties of this region I love so much. One day after riding I sat with a glass of wine at Paolo’s, the local enoteca, and sketched on a placemat my idea of a “perfect week”. I wanted to live that perfect week, but I also wanted more. I wanted to share it. This is the week you are about to experience.

A typical day with inGamba begins with a cappuccino at Paolo’s, a place Bicycling magazine describes as “so inside Italy that it technically doesn’t have a name.” After exploring the hills of Chianti by bike, you can look forward to an afternoon with a leisurely lunch, massage and rest before dinner at one of my favorite restaurants or perhaps a friend’s house.

The goal of an inGamba trip is to spend a week cycling on incredible roads so that we can eat spectacular food and drink amazing wine guilt-free. Your trip will be fully supported by a soigneur and a mechanic who will not only take care of your body and bike, but make you feel part of a family. Finally, our insider’s perspective will allow you to revel in unique cultural outings and excursions to secret locales.

There is something about the beauty of this area, the quality of the cuisine and the warmth of the people that just connects with me. I’m confident it will connect with you as well. Thank you for taking this journey with us.

Warm regards,

W E L C O M E by João Correia

M A N G I AC I A OTHE FEAST >> 4 Bill Strickland

WELCOME >> 6 João Correia

ALESSANDRO STELL A >> 32 Heidi Swift

TR AVEL GUIDE >> 68

eat

BORGOLECCHI >> 12 Jered Gruber

PAOLO >> 20 Bill Gifford

IL MAGNIFICO >> 28 Bill Gifford

Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | 9

B E V E B I C ICASTELLO DI AMA >> 44 Heidi Swift

ZUILIO >> 52 Ashley Gruber

D AY 1 BADIA A COLTIBUONO >> 18

D AY 2 PANZANO >> 26

D AY 3 CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA >> 30

D AY 4 CASTELLINA >> 36

D AY 5 GREVE DUDDA >> 42

D AY 6 CRETE SENESI >> 48

D AY 7 MONTELUCO >> 54

D AY 8 L’EROICA 130KM >> 60

D AY + 1 L’EROICA 205KM >> 64

R AUL >> 24 Heidi Swift

SERVICE COURSE >> 46 Matt Phillips

NATE & LUIS >> 50

PROS >> 56 Laurens ten Dam & Ted King

drink ride

13

Their business card says simply: Your Tuscan home away from home. And at the Borgolecchi, truer words were never written…or felt. It’s rare to leave your familiar household, travel a dozen hours, end up in a foreign country and find yourself, well...right at home. We spend months on the road every year, foreigners for most all of it. When we come to Borgolecchi though, we’re one of the locals. The door opens and two faces light up with smiles as we’re engulfed in the warmth of a friendly embrace. It feels like we belong here, like we’ve always lived with them, like we had only left for the day and were returning from a quick trip to Firenze.

The greeting from Anna and Morgaro—proprietors of the Borgolecchi—is an instant and wondrous kindness. I’m writing this in the living room of the Borgolecchi after finishing another delicious dinner. Conversation was animated with discussions ranging from the best way to make a fruit salad...to sloths...to their dog Ettore’s pleading face...to cauliflower—and on and on. It makes me happy to be here.

Anna and Morgaro go out of their way to spoil us. It’s the burden of the guest at the Borgolecchi—they put everyone before themselves. The level of service, the cooking (oh, the cooking!), it’s all fantastic. I can’t count how many times I’ve walked into the kitchen around noon only to see Morgaro hard at work with the dinner we’ll be eating in eight hours. Like anything Italian, the focus on food is evident. Along with traditional fare, there are special touches such as Florentine steak as thick as your arm, grilled over the open fire in the living room, or a late-evening picnic overlooking the Chianti hills. It’s sigh-inducing, even when you’re here.

B O R G O L E C C H I by Jered Gruber | Features Editor | Peloton Magazine | inGamba Guest

DIARIODaily Journal

17

DISTANCE >> 30km (short option: 20km) ELEVATION >> 550m (short option: 300m)

HIGHLIGHTS >> Badia a Coltibuono STARTING TIME >> 9:00am

GAIOLE

LECCHI

RADDA

30 km

20 km

10 km

BADIA A COLTIBUONO

645.0516.0387.0258.0129.0

8 km GAIOLE

0 km LECCHI

21 km RADDA

31 km LECCHI

14 km BADIA A COLTIBUONO

Max Elevation

693.0 m

NN

1/ / D A Y O N E / / A R R I V A L / / B A D I A A C O L T I B U O N O R I D E

Your first ride on the Pinarello Dogma will take you down the hill from Lecchi toward the town of Gaiole where

l’Eroica and the professional Strade Bianche race begins each year. Gaiole is also the start of a gentle 7km climb

to the Badia a Coltibuono, an abbey founded in 1051 by the

patron saint San Giovanni Gualberto. It is now owned by the Stucchi-Prinetti family—friends of João and his wife

Tiiu, and the site of their 2004 marriage. From Coltibuono

you will enjoy a nice descent into Radda before turning home toward Lecchi. The

short option, which includes a moderate climb to the Brolio

castle and winery, provides a small taste of what Chianti

riding has to offer.

19

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Borgolecchi, Lecchi in Chianti

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Borgolecchi, Lecchi in Chianti

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

Chianti is as hilly and rugged as West Virginia, but with slightly better wine. Most of the little villages are located on hilltops, including Lecchi, our home for the week. That means finishing every ride with a two-mile climb back to town. At the top, though, salvation awaits in the burly form of Paolo Cioni and his endless platters of prosciutto and bruschetti and free-flowing wine.

The proprietor of Enoteca Rinaldi, Paolo serves as Lecchi’s de facto mayor. He is a towering guy with a deep voice and biceps like tree branches, as if he had hauled all the building stones to this hilltop village by himself. It’s not much, maybe 20 stone houses clinging to the hillside, and one narrow main street, with views like the otherworldly background of the Mona Lisa. Paolo’s place is the heart and soul of the village, and probably the best post-ride refueling stop in Chianti; cyclists stop by all day long.

Paolo himself is a strong, enthusiastic rider—a few years ago, he used the bike to help him lose 50 pounds. He still gives a good draft, so find his wheel and try to hang on. The olive oil that he makes each fall, enlisting friends to harvest the local groves, is rustic and perfect. A five-liter tin of it somehow made it home in my luggage intact, and I savored every drop.

“I love this part of the world,” João said one night, over wine. “ I came from Portugal, grew up in New York, but this is the only place where I’ve ever felt truly at home.”

After a few days in Lecchi, we all had to agree.

P A O L O by Bill Gifford | Adventure writer | inGamba Guest

“ There is a great symmetry between the physical effort of riding the amazing roads of Chianti and the reward of eating and drinking the very best that the area has to offer.” | Kevin Irvine

“ Raul may be a soigneur, but that’s just a facade. He’s one of life’s rare human beings that will have you in hysterical laughter in the blink of an eye.” | Peter Cracknell

25

You come to inGamba knowing you will get massages from a professional soigneur. You think of this as a set of hands and a moment of relaxation. You imagine yourself closing your eyes after a hard ride—a bit of kneading and pressure sorts you out. Instead, you get Raul. Raul the leg whisperer. Raul the clown. Raul the mime. Raul the comedian. Raul the lover. Raul the great. Raul forever.

You fall in love with him. You can’t help it. Neither could I. And he loves you, too. Because that is why he breathes. To take care of people. To take care of you. To take care of me. The word “soigneur” means “one who takes care of others”. This is not just about massage. Everyone who meets Raul will learn that. Everyone who meets Raul will learn something they did not know about how to love each other as human beings. His is a selfless, devoted, invested kind of care.

Raul takes care of my legs every day that I am in Tuscany. On some days he also rides with me, observing the way I climb or shift gears. When we climb with fast groups he puts a hand on my lower back and takes the edge off of my threshold effort. He always asks for permission first. When I run out of water, he hands me a fresh bidon from his cage. When the fireworks go off in the front of the group, he sometimes gets caught up in the fray. Then he sits up, supermans on his saddle and drifts back to me. Laughing.

Later when he works my calves he props my leg up on the table and leans his head against my knee—eyes closed—and disappears into his work. There is a conversation shared between fingers and muscles as he kneads his way into the very details of mypedaling, the shadowy forms of my doubts and insecurities, the secret hopes guarded in my heart. By the time he’s done, he knows more about me than I intended.

R A U L by Heidi Swift | Editor-at-Large | Peloton Magazine | inGamba Guest

DISTANCE >> 75km (short option: 55km)ELEVATION >> 1150m (short option: 850m)

STARTING TIME >> 9:00am

NN

GAIOLE

VILLA

LUCARELLI

CASTELLINA

RADDA

PANZANOPIAZZA

MADONNA DI PIETRACUPA

BADIA A COLTIBUONO

20 km

40 km

60 km

10 km

30 km

50 km

70 km

LECCHI

670.0536.0402.0268.0134.0

22 km VILLA

0 km LECCHI

48 km MADONNA

DI PIETRACUPA

75 km LECCHI

14 km BADIA A

COLTIBUONO

Max Elevation

693.0 m

9 km GAIOLE

31 km LUCARELLI

43 km PIAZZA

67 km RADDA

57 km CASTELLINA

36 km PANZANO

2/ / D A Y T W O / / P A N Z A N O R I D E

After testing your Dogma—and your legs—

on some shorter, but challenging climbs,

we’ll stop for coffee in the small town of

Panzano. It’s the home of the famous butcher Dario Checchini who is also the godfather to

Alessandro Stella’s (the philosopher shoemaker) son Tobias. If you’re in a hurry to see what Paolo has prepared for lunch,

there is an optional ride that cuts out 20km

and 300 meters of vertical ascending from

our regular loop.

27

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Paolo’s, Lecchi in Chianti

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Palazzo Pretorio, San Donato in Poggio

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

29

We were in a very hot place, underground, and the diabolical figure confronting us was short and squat, bald and muscular. When he laughed, which was often, his entire scalp reddened, including his big ears. The only clues that Lorenzo was a baker rather than the devil himself were his white Crocs and the pinup calendar tacked to the wall. He flipped open the doors to a massive oven— one of the biggest and oldest in Siena—and a blast of heat hit us in the face. Reaching into its depths with a long wooden paddle, Lorenzo pulled out a baking sheet filled with his family’s legendary contucci, golden biscuits made for dunking in vin santo, the fragrant dessert wine. With a big smile, he waved the steaming cookies, fragrant with orange zest and almond, under my nose.

We were trapped in the bowels of Il Panifico Magnifico, a famous Sienese bakery; our exit was blocked, literally, by a table already groaning with contucci plus at least five other types of cookies including chewy almond moons called ricciarelli, dusted in powdered sugar. In addition, there were a dozen still-warm pannetone, fluffy orange cakes each the size of a basketball. We could not simply walk out of this room. We had to eat our way out.

But it wasn’t long before someone sliced into one of the orange cakes—just to be polite, you know. João filled a plastic cup with vin santo and dunked one of the biscotti into it. Big smile.

Others followed his example. I picked up one of the powdered- sugar cookies and bit into it; in my mouth, it melted into a warm, sugary almond goo. Yes, please, I will have five more… Soon we were stuffing cake and cookies into our faces by the fistful, as our livers whirred back into the red zone. The table began to empty. We were all sweating profusely, thanks to the heat from the oven, but we didn’t care anymore.

I L M A G N I F I C O by Bill Gifford | Adventure writer | inGamba Guest

Today is a bit of a rest day on the bike as the

group heads out on João’s traditional coffee shop ride.

Expect gentle rolling hills and plenty of time for on- the-bike conversation or some horsing around by

Raul as we make our way to Castelnuovo Berardenga.

The famous battle of Monteaperti was fought here in 1260, and today the town is alive with a

street market. Don’t forget to stash your Giordana cap in your jersey pocket. It’s a fashion accessory must

for a proper espresso stop.

DISTANCE >> 50kmELEVATION >> 600m (short option: 450m)

HIGHLIGHTS >> SienaSTARTING TIME >> 9:00am

NN

LECCHI

LA MADONNA

SAN PIERO

SAN GUSMÉ

CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA

20 km

30 km

40 km

10 km

480.0400.0320.0240.0160.0

8 km LA MADONNA

0 km LECCHI

32 km SAN GUSMÉ

47 km LECCHI

27 km CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA

Max Elevation522.0 m


18 km SAN PIERO

38 km LA MADONNA

3/ / D A Y T H R E E / / C A S T E L N U O V O B E R A R D E N G A R I D E

31

RIDE NOTES >>


FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> il Porri-One, Siena

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

Siena is one of the nation’s most-visited tourist attractions and has been declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO. The city has its roots in Etruscan times and is well-known for its art, fashion, museums and cuisine. It is likely most known, however, for the annual Palio horse race which is run around the Piazza del Campo. The city is divided into 17 contrada or wards, represented by an animal or mascot, each with its own church, museum, fountain, colors and coat of arms. Twice a year—on July 2 and August 16—rivalries are most rampant as they battle for supremacy around the main square. Professional jockeys ride bareback in this brutal competition. The winner receives a Palio, a painted banner bearing the image of the Madonna. A new Palio is commissioned by well-known artists for each race. It is the center of Sienese life and the after-party can last for months. InGamba guests are fortunate to be invited to visit the inner walls of the Lupa Contrade where you can begin to understand the significance of this institution in the lives of its members.

33

Alessandro Stella makes shoes. Stunning, immaculate, breathtaking handmade shoes.

What does a shoemaker have to do with cycling? Nothing. Everything.

One afternoon after riding you go to Sienna to meet him in his shop. He’ll show you his work, show you his process, smile at you and laugh, speak to you in his lovely accented English. You’ll crowd into the tiny space, shoulder to shoulder with your riding mates and marvel at the smell of leather and the aesthetic precision that surrounds you on every side.

Alessandro is a man with lively hands, quick eyes and a generous heart. If you’re lucky, he will turn up at dinner later. If you’re really lucky, he’ll tell you a few stories from the road. And if you’re really, really lucky, he’ll have a few glasses of wine and begin to talk to you about life in abstract terms: there is a philosopher hiding in this shoemaker.

Maybe he tells you the story of what it was like to descend 15,000 feet on a bike from Tibet into Nepal, maybe he doesn’t. What does a shoemaker have to do with cycling? Nothing. Everything.

A L E S S A N D R O S T E L L A by Heidi Swift | Editor-at-Large | Peloton Magazine | inGamba Guest

ALESSANDRO STELLA 35

DISTANCE >> 75km (Short option: 65km) ELEVATION >> 1000m (Short option: 800m)

HIGHLIGHTS >> Cooking Class STARTING TIME >> 9:00am

650.0520.0390.0260.0130.0

18 km CASTELLINA

0 km LECCHI

50 km PONTE A

BOZZONE

75 km LECCHI

30 km QUERCEGROSSA

Max Elevation

628.0 m

8 km RADDA

40 km CORSIGNANO

56 km PIANELLA

66 km LA MADONNA

4/ / D A Y F O U R / / C A S T E L L I N A R I D E

We change things this morning and start up the hill from Lecchi where we will climb toward the town of Radda before turning

to Castellina. The earliest definition—in 1716—of the wine area of Chianti, Lega del Chianti, is the region

we explore on today’s ride. This will be a day of truly incredible views from the bike, especially when we

turn left toward Colombaio. Once back on the main

road toward Gaiole there is a shorter option, which

cuts out 200 vertical meters and takes you straight

into Lecchi where Paolo is waiting with lunch.

10 km

70 km

60 km30 km

20 km

40 km

50 km

LECCHI

RADDA

PIANELLA

LA MADONNA

PONTE A BOZZONE

CROCEFLORENTINA

NN

CORSIGNANOCORSIGNANO

QUERCEGROSSAQUERCEGROSSA

RIDE NOTES >>


FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>


FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

37

39

“A place of cultic importance in the wine world. We Italians often complain that we do not have our own Chateaux Margaux, our Romanée Conti, our Opus One. But we are wrong, for we do have here in Italy some wine ‘ houses’ that are something better, something beyond the normal cellar. Relatively few, perhaps, but true domains of Bacchus where everything is utterly flawless, where time assumes the feel of history, the memory of timeless impressions, the quintessential ingredient in the evolution of wine. Castello di Ama is one of those places where one encounters the Platonic absolutes (…)” | Carlo Cambi | Il Buon Vino


HIGHLIGHTS >> Castello di Ama Tour STARTING TIME >> 9:00am

664.0498.0332.0166.0

22 km LUCARELLI

27 km PANZANO

13 km VILLA

33 km GREVE

0 km LECCHI

42 km DUDDA

59 km VILLA

31 km LECCHI

31 km GAIOLE

66 km BADIA A

COLTIBUONO


5/ / D A Y F I V E / / G R E V E R I D E

It’s time for you and your bike to explore the beauty and brutality of Chianti’s mountains. Although the

region is built on hilly terrain (hence the moniker “hill town”), today’s ride will include more sustained

climbing. Watch out for Raul as we ascend our second-highest point of the week. He’s been known to get a

bit frisky on the rise to 758 meters. Following the climb from Dudda we will descend

toward Radda, passing Albola for a fast, technical descent that will test even the most-

experienced riders. The 50km option is the standard short

ride from João’s training days. It climbs to Panzano

before meandering on a small road to Radda and a gentler

way back to Lecchi.

10 km 70 km

20 km

30 km

LUCARELLI

PANZANO

CREVE

DUDDA

VILLA

GAIOLE

BADIA A COLTIBUONO

40 km

50 km

LECCHI

60 km

NN

RIDE NOTES >>


FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Castello di Ama, Ama

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

43

Our evening at Castello di Ama introduces the two core aspects of Ama. The wine production with a visit to the wine cellar, and a cultural “reading” of the significant presence of contemporary art on the estate from artists such as Louise Bourgeois, Nedko Solakov and Kendell Geers. Following the visit we will have the pleasure of dining as guests of Lorenza and Marco in their private dining room enjoying the culinary masterpieces of Paola and Giovanni, Ama’s chefs. Dinner will be accompanied by some selections from Ama’s cellar including Al Poggio, Chianti Classico and their latest release Haiku.

45

When my hosts from inGamba Tours took their group to visit Castello di Ama, a local winery, I tagged along. I’ll spare you the exhaustive description of the organic symmetry of the vineyards or the way the sun backlit the group as we walked east across the grounds. It’s a magical place, but what part of Tuscany isn’t?

More striking than the sprawling estate, ancient buildings or intimate collaborations with specific artists, was the woman at the head of it all: Lorenza Sebasti. Refined, articulate, gracious, elegant, warm and passionate, she seemed to embody everything I’ve begun to fall in love with in this part of Italy. I sat at her right hand throughout dinner and watched her command the table full of men with a presence that was soft and firm at the same time. When Lorenza speaks, you get quiet. You listen.

She spoke of history and innovation and soil and inspiration—and of her instant love affair with the land when she first visited at the age of 15. She discussed the grapes and processes with the knowledge of a scientist, the fervor of an artist and the affection of a lover. She has changed fundamental things about the production of Chianti. She’s challenged convention while respecting tradition. Together with her husband, the winemaker, they have constantly elevated, innovated and evolved every aspect of their work and life. She never said it directly, but the point was taken: never settle.

We were talking about wine, but we were also talking about life and love and family and inspiration and an existence so permeated with meaning that most of us can only begin to understand it. It’s about ambition, but not as we understand that word in the United States: it is about ambition balanced with real, honest respect for passion. It’s about making your life the way you want it to be while honoring a calling that exceeds your own existence. Have a purpose outside yourself. For God’s sake, do what you are meant to be doing. And do it well.

C A S T E L L O D I A M A by Heidi Swift | Editor-at-Large | Peloton Magazine | inGamba Guest

47

The building is old and worn, but clean and cared for. When replicated in Las Vegas and McMansions, a scrubbed patina looks offensively fake, but the real thing is gorgeous and comforting and sad. The ghosts of people and moments of life have infused the wood and stone here with many good and beautiful memories. Only at the threshold is there a black stain of sadness. Those looks before leaving this place for the last time, knowing, perhaps, it will never be seen again; they color the ground.

Inside, the Pinarellos hang, waiting to wake up and swoop out, darting and pirouetting across the land, dazzling with fluid precision like the swallows that nest in the eaves. In the morning, stacked up neatly against the stone they are anticipation: Where will the ride take me? What wonders will I see? What little cafe will we happen across? What beautiful swooping descent will I fly down, jersey flapping in the wind, starched and white from the glorious sweat that earned me this memory?

Upstairs, RaulStrong stirs. He will animate the ride this morning and soothe muscles this afternoon. Because he is RaulStrong. From the doorway Paolo can be seen across the street drawing creamy espresso from a hissing machine.

The door to this building is ancient and heavy. It is strong because this place and these bikes must be kept safe. At the end of the day, the door feels heavy and reluctant to close. Closing the door means the riding is done. But every morning, the door is light and flies open so the Pinarellos may rush out. The building wants your memories in its walls too: grab your bike and go make some.

S E R V I C E C O U R S E by Matt Phillips | Test Director | Bicycling Magazine | inGamba Guest



NN

PIANELLA

MONTIAPERTI

MUCIGLIANI

PALAZZUOLO

LA MADONNA

COLONNA DEL GRILLO


CALCIONEASCIANO

RAPOLANO TERME

10 km

20 km

40 km

70 km

80 km

90 km

100 kmLECCHI

30 km

60 km

556.0417.0278.0139.0

0.0

17 km MONTEAPERTI

28 km MUCIGLIANI

0 km LECCHI

11 km PIANELLA

66 km PALAZZUOLO

105 km LECCHI

105 km LA MADONNA

47 km RAPOLANO

TERME

Max Elevation

598.0 m

39 km ASCIANO

85 km CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA

77 km COLONNA DEL

GRILLO

57 km CALCIONE

40 km

6/ / D A Y S I X / / C R E T E S E N E S I R I D E

Riding the first five days has taken you through

deep forest with incredible panoramic views of undulating terrain.

Today’s ride will take you south toward the town

of Montalcino where the rolling Tuscan clay-colored views of postcards will be

in full effect. This is the Crete Senesi, a region known

for its production of white truffles. We have prepared two ride options for those

who want to save their energy for tomorrow’s

challenge. The shorter ride skips the biggest climb while

cutting out 20km and 300 meters of elevation.

49

RIDE NOTES >>


FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Le Panzanelle, Lucarelli

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

51

Nate’s our lead guide, our handyman, our juggler. He’s the guy that keeps things moving at inGamba. He also has an uncanny ability to know what our guests want and need before they know it themselves.

His passion in bicycle riding lies not in being the first to the finish line (although he’s been known to “drop the hammer” on occasion), or even enjoying the ride for the ride’s sake, but rather in helping you to enjoy the ride for the ride’s sake. One of Nate’s greatest pleasures is seeing a big grin on a rider’s face and reading their anticipation as they wonder what’s beyond next banked curve or what’s just over the horizon. He rides just for the joy of feeling the wind in his face, his heart pounding in his chest, and the not-quite silent sound of tires on the smooth Chianti roads. Nate is small of stature, yet big of heart—and it is here that he finds inner peace. If you find yourself consumed by the simple euphoria of pedaling a bicycle and need to have a heart-to-heart, Nate’s your man.

Luis is one of the best mechanics you’ll ever meet. He came to inGamba this year to take the place of Jorge who went on to wrench for Team Garmin on the Pro Tour circuit. Luis is a stickler for perfection and is unflinchingly precise about his work. We think that’s a pretty good trait to have in a mechanic. When he’s not fixing bikes, laughing or playing tricks on Raul, Luis is raising canaries. And because Luis doesn’t settle for second-best in anything, he’s even raised a few World Champion canaries. (Yes, there is indeed a World Championships for canaries. Go figure.)

There’s a race photo of Luis attacking the peloton in 1993 and João going after him. We’re not disclosing how that scenario ended up, but 20 years later, Luis is a big part of the inGamba family. Just as it is with Raul, João and Luis go back a long way. The bonds formed, confidences built and kinship shared from a relationship that spans 20 years is important to how we do things here.

N A T E & L U I S

At the upper end of Lecchi there’s a small cluster of stone buildings where Zuilio and his wife preside over a piece of olive and grape heaven. They’ve seen a few years, but it hasn’t slowed their eagerness to chat and introduce you to their land. Dozens of rabbits, chickens, a turtle and a cat abound, seeking your attention.

Zuilio takes a special pride in telling you about his family history. It doesn’t matter if you understand Italian; he will try to communicate, and somehow, you get it. He’ll offer his organic olive oil and wine, underlining that there are no chemicals inside.

It’s a community effort to get all the grapes down each year. Friends have picking parties and shops close their doors. At harvest time, a dozen friends arrive to Zuilio’s land, and the grapes find their way from branches to basket to barrel.

If you come in the fall you can turn from the doorway into the sparkling sun and see the grapes drying for his delicious vin santo. On the right day, just as the sun is going down, with the light flickering through the lightly breezed leaves, you’ll smile, and be perfectly content.

Z U I L I O by Ashley Gruber | Writer/Photographer | inGamba Guest


HIGHLIGHTS >> Fiorentina Menu at BorgolecchiSTARTING TIME >> 9:00am

NN


752.0

564.0

376.0

188.0

43 km PIAZZA

36 km PANZANO

14 km BADIA A

COLTIBUONO

9 km GAIOLE

22 km VILLA

48 km MADONNA DI PIETRACUPA

0 km LECCHI

57 km CASTELLINA

67 km BELVERDE 116 km

LECCHI99 km

MONTELUCO80 km PIANELLA

90 km SAN GUSMÉ

75 km PONTE A

BOZZONE

105 km CASTAGNOLI

31 km LUCARELLI

GAIOLE

VILLA

LUCARELLI

BADIA A COLTIBUONO

20 km

80 km

100 km

70 km

30 km

40 km

10 km

90 km

50 km

60 km

BELVERDE

MONTELUCO

PIANELLA

SAN GUSMÉPONTE A BOZZONE

CASTAGNOLILECCHI

PANZANO

PIAZZA

MADONNA DI PIETRACUPA

CASTELLINA

7/ / D A Y S E V E N / / M O N T E L U C O R I D E

Today will not only take us to the highest point on the trip (Monteluco at 790 meters), but it’s also our longest ride.

Make sure you pack your pockets with some of

Raul’s tasty rice cakes before heading out.

The final downhill from the summit of Monteluco

is known in the region as one of the most-intoxicating, sexy

descents. Take your time and enjoy it. We do this ride to earn the Bisteca

Florentina that Anna and Morgaro will prepare

for our final dinner. The short option tackles

the Monteluco in the first half of the ride.

55

RIDE NOTES >>


FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>


FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

“To be honest riding with João is the best week of my riding season. The fun at the

dinner table, the wines and the perfect riding area makes it a dream week for me.

Totally unstressed, but really well trained I’ll return to my race season.” | Laurens ten Dam

Laurens ten Dam | Professional Cyclist | Team Blanco | inGamba Guest | PROS 57

“Please pardon this terribly perfect analogy, but inGamba runs the absolutely perfect (wait for it)... cycle. You arrive anxious and eager to soak in the entire week’s adventure in southern Tuscany, so the first day you’re bursting out of bed and onto the bike. You come home that evening after one of the most amazing rides of your life sinuously weaving through the Chianti hills and you’re famished. So João has arranged one of the best meals you’ll ever eat from a restaurant you’ve certainly never heard of nor would you have ever found left to your own devices. Rest, repeat, raise to the power of amazing, and multiply times 7—or however many days your trip is. Every greeting is familial and heartwarmingly organic, every detail covered. Every bite, every pedal stroke, and every sip you’ll remember for the rest of your life.” | Ted King

Ted King | Professional Cyclist | Cannondale Pro Cycling Team | inGamba Guest | PROS 59

DISTANCE >> 130kmELEVATION >> 1200m


470.0376.0282.0188.094.0

0 km GAIOLE

100 km CASTALNUOVO BERARDENGA 130 km

GAIOLE

118 km FORMACELLA

83 km ASCIANO 109 km

SAN PIERO

48 km RADI


31 km PICCOLOMINI

66 km PONTE DARBIA54 km

VESCOVADO10 km LA MADONNA 21 km

SAN GIOVANNI

19 km PIANELLA

10 km

60 km

30 km90 km

100 km110 km

120 km

80 km

20 km

40 km

50 km 70 km

NN

G AIOLE

CASTALNUOVO BERARDENGA

FORMACELLA

ASCIANO

SAN PIERO

RADI

PICCOLOMINI

PONTE DARBIAVESCOVADO

LA MADONNA

SAN GIOVANNI

PIANELLA

8/ / D A Y E I G H T / / L ’ E R O I C A 1 3 0 K M R I D E

If travel schedules allow it, we will do a morning

ride from Lecchi. Plan to say goodbye to

your hilltop home about 2.5 hours before your

flight’s departure.

61

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Borgolecchi, Lecchi in Chianti

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >>

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

DISTANCE >> 205kmELEVATION >> 2400m


640.0480.0320.0160.00.0

16 km LUCIGNANO

143 km ASCIANO

194 km RADDA

202 km GAIOLE

169 km SAN PIERO

83 km MONTALCINO

54 km VESCOVADO

95 km TORRENIERI

121 km BUONCONVENTO

178 km FORMACELLA

Max Elevation

636.0 m

0 km GAIOLE

126 km PONTE DARBIA

161 km CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA9 km

LA MADONNA

31 km PICCOLOMINI

20 km PIANELLA

G AIOLE

200 km

170 km

120 km

130 km

10 km

20 km

180 km

30 km

40 km

50 km

140 km

150 km

160 km

70 km

LUCIGNANO

ASCIANO

RADDA

SAN PIERO

MONTALCINO

VESCOVADO

TORRENIERI

BUONCONVENTO

FORMACELLA

PONTE DARBIA


LA MADONNA

PICCOLOMINI

PIANELLA

60 km

90 km80 km

190 km

100 km

NN+1

/ / E X T R A D A Y / / L ’ E R O I C A 2 0 5 K M R I D E

l’Eroica is perhaps our favorite event of the year. We treasure these white

roads and often take detours on rides to make sure we hit some of the sections. They are often

the highlights for many of our guests since they can’t

experience these roads at home. Here we present to you the 205km version

of l’Eroica but we will only take you on a few

stretches along this route. Of course you get to do it on a modern bike and not on a pre-1987 bike like we use for the actual event.

110 km

65

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >>

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >>

FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

GUIDATravel Guide

69

FLIGHTSFlorence International Airport (FLR) will be your arrival and departure airport. Upon arrival, we will be waiting for you outside the door once you pass through Customs. The drive to Lecchi from Florence is about 1 hour. There are no direct commercial flights to Florence from the United States. We recommend flying Swiss, Lufthansa or Air France. Swiss transfers through Zurich; Air France through Paris; and Lufthansa through Munich or Frankfurt. It’s a short flight into Florence from those airports. We can also pick up at Florence Santa Maria Novella Train Station or your hotel in Florence. Should you wish to arrive at another airport (Pisa 2 hours), Bologna (2 hours) Rome (3.5 hours) we can arrange for a chauffeur pickup (Pisa and Bologna: 250 Euros, Rome: 450 Euros).

WHEN TO ARRIVE AND DEPARTIf you prefer to arrive or depart a day earlier or later we will pick you up at your convenience and transfer you to Lecchi. You can stay at our B&B for an additional $375 per person the day before or after the trip (all meals included). If you’d like to spend a day in Florence we recommend the Lungarno Collection of Hotels owned and operated by the Ferragamo family (lungarnocollection.com).

CELL PHONESIn order to use your cell phone in Europe, roaming should be turned on. Please confirm that you have a dual band phone. To avoid a large bill when you return home, you should either turn off data or have a roaming data plan.

ELECTRICITYElectricity in Italy is 220 volts (vs. 110 in the U.S.). The sockets are also different, so you’ll need to pack a foreign power adapter in order to use small electronic devices designed to run on dual voltages. If your device is designed to run only on 110-120 volts, you will need a power converter or transformer.

S M A L L T H I N G S

TRAVEL GUIDE 71

OUR ITALIAN CONTACT NUMBERPlease program these numbers into your phone before you leave. Also, make sure your family has them.João: +39 345 967 7220 (Italy)João: +1 (917) 859-7085 (U.S.; also works in Italy)Borgolecchi: +39 0577 630 527.

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

INTERNET & LAUNDRYYou will have complimentary wireless access at our B&B and throughout the town of Lecchi. We provide all of our guests with complimentary daily laundry and folding service.

BIKES AND CLOTHINGWe have a fleet of 2014 Campagnolo-equipped Dogmas from Italian bike-maker Pinarello for our guests to experience Chianti on two wheels. You will receive a full Giordana cycling kit worth about $600, as well as a few other goodies which are yours to keep. Bikes are assigned at the time of booking on a first-come basis.

ITINERARYPrior to your arrival you will receive an itinerary to whet your appetite for what’s ahead. We will also provide a daily schedule each evening for the next day of your trip, but are often flexible with schedules. We like to get to know our guests and finalize specifics based on what will give them the experience of a lifetime. We’ve also been known to delight guests by throwing in a surprise or two.

inGambaTours inGamba

@inGambaTours Strava/clubs/inGamba-tours

ON-BIKE SUPPORTBefore each day’s ride, you can fill your jersey pockets with tasty homemade snacks that Raul has prepared and wrapped to fuel you through the day, or choose from a selection of Clif Bar. There will also be filled water bottles waiting for you each morning with Osmo Active Hydration. A vehicle with food, drinks and bike tools will follow each day’s route to provide support. And your on-bike guides might even put a friendly hand on your back for that two-second boost you need to hang on the pro’s wheel.

TRIP PRICINGOur Chianti Mangia, Beve, Bici trips are priced based on double occupancy: Couples Trip, $9,900 per couple; Spring Trip, $5,950; Chianti and La Pinarello Granfondo, $6,750; Chianti and l’Eroica, $7,650. Our Portugal Randonnée Trip is $7,800, based on single occupancy.

CANCELLATION POLICYLife happens and we understand that plans can change. Should you need to cancel your trip, please call us and we will be as accommodating as possible, including issuing you a refund or a credit toward a future trip. Some of our trips have wait lists, so with enough notice we can generally fill your spot. Our lawyer did tell us to have an official cancellation policy. Here it is: The initial deposit is non-refundable. Balances are subject to the following cancellation policy: 50% refund if canceled at least 30 days prior to the trip. For cancellations made less than 30 days prior to the departure, no refunds can be made.

S M A L L T H I N G S

TRAVEL GUIDE 73

RIDING CLOTHING Shorts 2Short-sleeve jersey 2Long-sleeve jersey 1Socks 2Summer gloves 2Long-finger light gloves 1Arm warmers 1Leg warmers 1Knee warmers 1Baselayer shirts, summer 2Baselayer shirts, fall 1Wind vest 1Rain jacket 1Shoes with spare cleats 1Shoe covers or booties 1Helmet (we like Giro) 1Pedals 1 pairRiding glasses 1Cycling cap 1

OFF-THE-BIKE CLOTHINGCasual clothing including jeans, khakis, T-shirts and a scarf are appropriate for all restaurants.For the Castello di Ama dinner we recommend a collared shirt and jacket or sweater for men; skirt, dress or dress pants for women.Casual shoes and sneakers or trail-shoes for walks in the vineyard are recommended.Sweater or light jacket is recommended for evenings.Shorts for swimming should the occasion arise.

W H A T T O B R I N G

CYCLING EQUIPMENTWe provide Pinarello Dogma bikes, a Garmin 810 unit, Elite water bottles and a Giordana cycling kit to all guests. Feel free to bring your own saddle, and Luis our mechanic will happily install it for you. Our service course has Giro helmets; Speedplay, Look and Shimano pedals; Giordana rain jackets; and some spare Giordana clothing as backups in case you forget something. If you’d like to bring your own bike, Luis will unpack it from your bike case and repack it for you at the end of the trip. Please ensure that your bike arrives to Lecchi clean. You will return home with a clean bike as well. Should your bike need any work, feel free to bring the required parts and Luis will take care of everything for you.

GARMIN EDGE 810In addition to a small ride map for your jersey pocket, all Pinarello’s will be equipped with the new Garmin Edge 810 with all of our rides pre-loaded giving you the option of turn-by-turn directions for each days ride. The Garmin Edge 810 offers a suite of connected features on this unit when paired with your smartphone (iOS® or Android™) and the Garmin Connect™ Mobile app. Edge tracks the data and sends it to your phone using Bluetooth®. Stay connected and share all the details of your ride with friends, family and social media. Post an update immediately after your ride. Create the posts via your smartphone, and ride data’s already there. Please note that you should have roaming turned on and an international data plan activated on your phone to avoid large cell phone bills when you return home. With the Live Tracking feature, friends and family can follow your ride in real time on the map should you send out an invite. If you are on Strava please follow our club page (app.strava.com/clubs/ingamba-tours) as we upload our rides daily. If you are not on Strava please join at (www.strava.com)

W H A T T O B R I N G

TRAVEL GUIDE 75

BORGOLECCHI Via San Martino, 50 Lecchi in Chianti 0577-169-8087

SARTORIA DEL CUOIO DI ALESSANDRO STELLA Via Camollia, 53 Siena 0577-438-61

IL MAGNIFICO Via Pellegrini, 27 Siena 0577-281-106

LE PANZANELLE Loc. Lucarellli, 29 Lucarelli 0577-733-511

PALAZZO PRETORIO PIZZA Via Del Giglio, 26 San Donato In Poggio 05580-729-28

IL PORRI-ONE Via Porrione, 28 Siena 0577-221-442

CASTELLO DI AMA Loc. Ama Ama 0577-746-031

I M P O R T A N T A D D R E S S E S

C O L L A B O R A T O R SWORDS >> Bill Strickland, Bill Gifford, Matt Phillips,

Heidi Swift, Jered Gruber, Ashley Gruber

IMAGES >> Jason Gould, Jered Gruber, Brad Sauber, Heidi Swift

IDEATION >> João Correia, Justin Curtis, Nate Ripperton


A special thanks to our partners who add as much to our guests’ experience as any restaurant, wine or ride we do. They allow us to treat our guests like pros. Our bikes are Pinarello DogmaK. Clothing by Giordana and Ermenegildo Zegna. Riding fuel by Clif Bar and Osmo. Heads protected by Giro helmets. Friendly competition brought to you by Strava. Knees saved by Speedplay pedals. Elite water bottles and cages. Bikes stay tuned by Park Tools. Bags for bikes by SciCon and for gear by BAD bags. Cool name stickers by Victory Circle Graphix. And we make a difference in the world through World Bicycle Relief.

P A R T N E R S

“Riding with inGamba is an invitation into João’s heart and

home, culturally, athletically and gastronomically.” | Tom Fowler


inGamba is the collaboration of a few people who wanted to share their passions for riding a bicycle, eating great food and drinking fantastic wine. We strive to live each “perfect week” fully while introducing our guests to a world they may not know existed. inGamba was born from a simple tweet: “Thinking of doing a ride, eat, drink EOY bash here in chianti October 12–18th,” said @joaoisme. “Share my favorite things about this place. Who’s interested?” Four brave souls--Gary Smith, Kevin Irvine, Jason Probert and Robin Kelly--answered. There were no security deposits, no liability waivers, just as Kevin put it “a huge amount of trust”. The adventure writer Bill Gifford added words to the narrative; Jason Gould provided images while Joe Staples, Andrew Reed, Michael Scher and Tony Little created the canvas. The original team consisted of Raul Matias, Jorge Queiros, Luis Gomes, Nate Ripperton, Torrey Lincoln, Brad Sauber, João Correia and the kind people of Lecchi in Chianti whose world we share with a few lucky travelers each year.

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