INCH-POUND DETAIL SPECIFICATION -...

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for ascarlet vest for wear by general officers.

1.2. Classification. The vest will be of one type in thefollowing sizes as specified (see 6.2).

Schedule of sizes

Short Regular Long Extra Long36 36 36 3638 38 38 3840 40 40 40

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)28 July 1997 SUPERSEDINGMIL-V-29389A(MC)14 April 1994

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

VEST, MAN'S - SCARLET, DRESS (GENERAL OFFICER'S)

This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps,Department of the Navy, and is available for use by allDepartments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;distribution is unlimited.

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions)and any pertinent data which may be of use in improvingthis document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D),Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 byusing the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DDForm 1426) appearing at the end of this document or byletter.

Downloaded from http://www.everyspec.com

Schedule of sizes

Short Regular Long Extra Long

42 42 42 4244 44 44 44

46 46

1.3. Individual orders. When the vest is custom tailored to anindividual order, this specification shall govern, except thedetailed requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified tothe extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specifiedin sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does notinclude documents cited in other sections of this specificationor recommended for additional information or as examples. Whileevery effort has been made to ensure the completeness of thislist, document users are cautioned that they must meet allspecified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 ofthis specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The followingspecifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of thisdocument to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwisespecified, the issues of these documents are those listed in theissue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications andStandards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in thesolicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERALA-A-50196 - Thread, SilkA-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, ButtonholeA-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

(Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed)A-A-52094 - Thread, CottonDDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage,

(General Use)

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSEMIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, RayonMIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and CapMIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/WoolMIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

STANDARDS

FEDERALFED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitching

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the abovespecifications, standards, handbooks are available from theStandardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) forma part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unlessotherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoDadopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in thesolicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues ofdocuments not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of thedocuments cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 -Sampling Procedures and Tables forInspection by Attributes

(Applications for copies should be addressed to The AmericanNational Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY10036)

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of OfficialStandardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966

(Application for copies should be addressed to the ColorAssociation of the United States, Inc., 200 Lexington Ave., NewYork, NY 10016.)

2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between thetext of this document and the references cited herein, the textof this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document,

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however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless aspecific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely forguidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variationfrom this specification may appear in the sample, in which casethe specification shall govern.

3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall besubjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3. Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool,tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounce, conformingto type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-21115.

3.3.2 Lining. The material for the back, face interlining,hanging pockets, back straps and eyelet opening and for liningthe fronts shall be cloth, rayon, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3),4.5 ounce, conforming to class 3 of MIL-C-368.

3.3.3 Front interlining. The material for interlining the vestfronts and pocket welts shall be cloth, fusible, conforming totype V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296.

3.3.4 Tape. The tape for the breakline for the lapel front,button edge and for reinforcing the folded edge of the pocketwelt and front armholes shall be cotton, unbleached, 1/4 inchwide conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except therequirement for nonfiberious material shall not apply.

3.3.5 Thread.

3.3.5.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196except the requirement for extractable material shall not apply;type I, ticket No. A, 3-ply for eyelets, bartacking and top andedge stitching; ticket No. B and F, 3-ply for buttonholes, needleand bobbin respectively; type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply forhandfelling.

3.3.5.2. Cotton thread. All inside seaming and stitching shallbe accomplished with cotton thread conforming to type III, ticket

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No. A, 3-ply of A-A-52094. The thread for basting shall be ofgood commercial grade.

3.3.5.3. Color and colorfastness. All thread except bastingthread shall be dyed scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shallshow good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and, in addition, thesilk thread shall show good fastness to light. All colorfastnesstests shall be conducted as specified in the applicable threadspecification. Basting thread shall be white or unbleached (seeDoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades forSewing Threads 1968).

3.3.6 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8, soft orglazed finish, conforming to type I or type II of A-A-50198. Thecolor of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, andshall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.7 Buttons. The buttons shall be metal, gold plated,insignia, officers' design, 22-line, regular shank, conforming totype I, style 4, class 4, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461 (see DoDStandard Shades for Buttons 1966).

3.3.7.1. Toggles, ring. The insignia buttons specified in 3.3.7shall be secured to the vest with ring type toggles conforming tothe requirements of MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.8 Buckle. The buckle shall be made of a rust-resistantmetal, nickel plated, with outside overall dimensions of one inchby 7/8 inch. Inside opening for width of strap shall be 3/4 inchand inside opening for thickness of strap shall be 1/4 inch.Length of double prongs shall be 11/32 inch to 13/32 inch.

3.3.9 Labels. Each vest shall have an identification label anda size label conforming to DDD-L-20 as specified herein. Thevest is intended to be dry cleaned, therefore, the labels shallshow fastness to dry cleaning.

3.3.9.1. Identification label. The identification label shall betype VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than2-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches. The content and format shall be asfollows:

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Nomenclature: (Item Description)Name of contractor:Wool Products Act information

NOTE: Size of characters for "Name of contractor" shall beminimum 6 point, approximately 1/16 inch.

3.3.9.2. Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2 ofDDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 1-1/2 inches by 1 inch.The label shall consist of the numerical size designationspecified in 1.2, followed by the letter S, R, L, or XL forShort, Regular, Long, or Extra Long respectively, as shown by thefollowing example:

40 R

3.4. Design. The vest shall be in the U.S. Marine Corps designshown on Figures 1 through 3 (see 6.4), a fully lined, fourbutton, single breasted vest with four worked eyelets in theright front for detachable buttons, front and back waist darts,two-piece back, two hanging pockets with welts shawl type lapeland adjustable back straps to buckle.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not bealtered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cuttingthe contractor's working patterns. The contractor's workingpatterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. Thestandard patterns provide 3/8 inch allowance for joining frontand side front, shoulder, bust dart and back seam and 1/4 inchallowance for all other seams, with a side outlet according tothe pattern. Standard patterns show size and are marked andnotched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of componentparts.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The vests shall be cut from thespecified materials in accordance with the pattern parts asfollows:

222

FrontFront facingPocket welt

123

Material: Cloth, tropical, woolNO. OF CUT PARTSPATTERN NOMENCLATUREITEM

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Eyelet12Marker

22

FrontPocket welt

1011

Material: Cloth, nonwoven fusible

424112

BackFrontPocketEyelet opening liningFacing interliningStrap, adjustment

456789

Material: Cloth, satin, rayon (lining)NO. OF CUT PARTSPATTERN NOMENCLATUREITEM

3.6. Construction.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The vests shall bemanufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch,seam and stitching type specified in Table I. The contractor isnot required to follow the exact sequence of the operations aslisted in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used tomanufacture the vests.

e. Cut the vest front and pocketwelt interlining in accordance withthe pattern furnished.

d. Cut front lining, backs andadjustment straps from one piece ofrayon material. All other rayonparts may be cut from ends.

c. Cut all wool components of thevest from one piece of basicmaterial.

b. Cut all materials in thedirection indicated by thedirectional lines on the patterns.

a. Cut vest in strict accordancewith patterns furnished.

Cutting.1

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements.

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AA10-14LSbj-1301b. The size label shall be centeredon the inside right back 1-1/2 to 2inches below the neck and seamed 1/8inch from all edges.

AA10-14LSbj-1301a. Position the identificationlabel in front lining approximately1 inch from the finished side seamand approximately 4 inches fromarmhole and seam on all sides 1/8inch from each edge.

Finished appearance. The labelsshall be correctly positioned andsecurely attached.

Labeling.4

c. Adhesive type shade ticket, whenused, shall be adhered to the insideof the vest.

b. The use of tickets with metalfastening devices is prohibited onthe rayon material.

a. Mark all component parts cutfrom one piece of basic and liningmaterials to insure uniform shadeand size throughout the vest.

Shade marking.3

b. Replace any part damaged duringthe manufacturing process by needlechews which may be expected todevelop into a hole, scissor orknife cuts, tears, mends or burns.

a. Replace at time of cutting anypart containing damages such asholes or seriously weakening defectssuch as smashes, multiple floats,and slubs likely to develop intoholes.

Replacement of damaged parts.2

f. The use of drill holes isprohibited.

Cutting. (cont'd)1

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

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c. Spread open the seams and presssmooth and flat with a heatedpressing iron.

AA10-14SSa-1301b. Fold the material for each strapin half lengthwise forming twoplies. Seam the two plies togetheralong the length, 1/4 inch from theraw edge.

a. Each strap shall be made of asingle ply of rayon material.

Finished appearance. The strapshall be two-piece, uniform inappearance and shall finish smoothand flat without twists, pleats,puckers or other distortions. Theseam shall be centered on theunderside of the strap. The strapshall finish 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 incheswide at the wide end and 5/8 and 3/4inch wide at the narrow end.

Make adjustment straps.6

A(silk

)

A(silk

)

10-14SSe-2(b)

(seamedges)OSf-1

(folded)

301d. Turn the welt right side out,completely working out the seamededges and corners. Edgestitch thewelt uniformly 1/16 inch from theseamed and folded edges.

A(silk

)

A(silk

)

10-14SSe-2301c. Fold the welt at the notches,and close the ends of the welt witha 1/4 inch seam. Trim the cornersof the welt for proper turning.

b. Position welt interlining to theinside of each welt and fuse (see3.6.3).

a. The welt shall be made of oneply of basic material and one ply ofinterlining.

Finished appearance. The welt shallbe uniformly made and stitched, andshall finish smooth and flat withouttwists, puckers or pleats.

Make pocket welt.5

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b. Spread open the cut edges of thedarts. Press darts smooth and flatwith a heated pressed iron

AA10-14SSa-1301a. Fold lower front andinterlining, matching the cut edgesof the waist darts. Seam lengthwisealong the entire length of the dartsstarting 3/8 inch from the cut edgesat the lower end and tapering to apoint at the upper end.

Finished appearance. The dartsshall be properly positioned andfinished without pleats, puckers orgathers.

Seam darts at fronts.8

c. Position a 1 inch wide by 6 inchlong strip of fusible material onthe upper and back edge of thelining covering the raw edges andfuse (see 3.6.3).

AA10-14SSa-1301b. Position facing rayon lining onthe inside of right front with frontand bottom edges even. Stitch thetwo piles together 1/8 inch frombottom and front edge.

a. Position the left and rightfront interlining on the undersideof their respective vest fronts andfuse (see 3.6.3).

Make fronts.7

f. Press the strap smooth and flatwith a heated pressing iron orpressing machine with the seam linepositioned in the center.

e. Trim the corners at the narrowend, turn strap through the openend, completely working out thecorners and seam.

AA10-14SSa-1301d. Position the seam at the centerof the strap and close the narrowend with a seam 1/4 inch from theraw edge.

Make adjustment straps. (cont'd)6

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AA10-14SSa-1301g. Position the other ply of pocketlining on the inside of front evenwith the raw edge of welt. Seamtogether 3/8 inch from the raw edge.

f. Turn the pocket lining and theraw edge of welt through the pocketopening, with the folded edge of thewelt towards the top of the front.

e. Cut the pocket opening midwaybetween the seams and tongue notcheach end of the opening. Theopening shall not extend beyond theends of the welt.

AA10-14SSa-1301d. Position one ply of pocketlining on outside of front with oneedge under the raw edge of the weltand abutting the welt seam. Stitchthe pocket lining to the frontthrough the interlining 3/8 inchfrom the raw edge of the lining.

AA10-14SSa-1301c. Seam and welt to the fronts atthe mark through the interlining.

b. Position welt on the outside offronts with the mark on the welt andfront matching and with the raw edgetowards the upper edge of front.

a. Mark the fronts for the positionof the pockets in accordance withthe marks on the pattern. Mark thewelt 1 + 1/8 inch from the foldededge for proper seaming to fronts.

Finished appearance. The welt andhanging pocket shall be set to thefronts smooth and flat and withouttwists, gathers, puckers, raw edgesor distortion.

Set welt and hanging pocket.9

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AA10-14SSau-2301b. Stitch the tape through thefront of the vest evenly, smoothlyand with normal tension, holding thetapes taut and working in 1/2 to 5/8inch fullness along the breakline.The tape shall be stitched 1/16 inchfrom each edge.

a. Position the 1/4 inch widebridle tape on the interlining sideof the fronts along the breakline ofthe lapel and with the front edge ofthe tape in line with the breakline.The tape shall extend from the gorgeto approximately 1 inch above thelower edge of lapel.

Finished appearance. The bridletape shall be stitched along thebreakline with the proper tensionsto allow the lapel to roll properlyin the finished vest.

Stitch bridle tape to lapel.11

a. Dress left front and facing fromtop edge to lower end for eyeletstand as indicated by marks onpattern.

Dress left front and left facing.10

AA10-14SSa-1301i. Tack the ends of the welt to thefront through the interlining. Thestitching shall be adjacent to theedge stitching for the welt.

AA10-14SSa-1301h. Close the pocket along the sidesand bottom, tacking the ends of thepocket opening, and catching thetongue notches in the stitching.The row of stitches at the sidesshall be in line with the ends ofthe pocket opening. The row ofstitches at the bottom of the pocketshall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch from theraw edge.

Set welt and hanging pocket.(cont'd)

9

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A(silk

)

A(silk

)

10-14SSa-1301c. Switch the front raw edge of thelining and facing together 1/8 to3/16 inch from the raw edge. Trimexcess lining if necessary.

AA10-14SSe-2(b)

301b. Extend the depth of the notchesup to the lining facing seam. Turnthe lining to the underside of thefacing and edgestitch 1/16 to 1/8inch from the seamed edge.

A(silk

)

A(silk

)

10-14SSe-2(a)

301a. Position lining for eyeletopening on outside of right frontfacing with edge of facing andlining even, and with notchesmatching. Stitch lining to facingfrom upper to lower notches with a3/8 inch seam.

Make eyelet opening.13

A(silk

)

A(silk

)

21 pereyelet

Eyeletb. Make an eyelet at each mark onthe right front, through the frontand interlining.

a. Mark the right front for thelocation of four eyelets forremovable insignia buttons inaccordance with marks on patterns.

Finished appearance. The eyeletsshall be worked with the purling onthe outside of the front, and shallfinish with 1/8 inch diameteropening. All stitches shall besecurely caught in the fabric. Thecenter of the eyelets shall beuniformly 1/2 inch minimum and 5/8inch maximum from the finished frontedge of the vest and shall be evenlyspaced.

Make eyelets in right front.12

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Finish appearance. The pleat shallfinish smooth and flat withoutpuckers or other distortion, and thefolded edge on the outside of thelining shall be towards the back.

Make pleat in front lining.15

AA10-14SSa-1301e. Join lining to left facing fromthe notch at the upper edge to thelower edge of the facing.

AA10-14SSa-1301d. Tack both ends of the eyeletopening.

AA10-14EFb-1301c. Form a 3/16 to 1/4 inch hem inthe lining, from top to bottomeyelet opening notches, turningunder the raw edge and catching theturned under edge in the stitching1/16 inch from the inner folded edgeof the hem.

AA10-14SSa-1301b. Join front edge of the rightfront lining to the back edge of therespective facing with a 3/8 inchseam from the notch at the upperedge of facing to top notch for theeyelet opening and from the bottomnotch for the eyelet opening to thelower edge of facing, leaving anopening between the notches.

a. Position right and left frontlinings on the respective facingwith the notches at back edge offacing and front edge of liningmatching.

Seam facing to front lining.(cont'd)

14

Finished appearance. The liningshall be properly and carefullyaligned and seamed to the facing sothat in the finished vest, thelining shall be smooth and flatalong the facing without creases,bulges, overlapping of excessmaterial, or other defect ordistortion. The eyelet openingshall not gap or be distorted.

Seam facing to front lining.14

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Finished appearance. The strapsshall be in proper alignment andshall be stitched to the backwithout puckers, wrinkles or otherdistortion. The seamed side of thestraps shall face the outside of theback lining. In the finished vestthe bottom edge of the straps shallbe 3 to 3-1/4 inches above thefinished bottom edge of the backlining. The rounded end of thestraps shall overlap no less than1-3/4 inches for attaching buckleand fastening.

Stitch adjustment straps to back.17

d. Press the center seams and dartsflat with a heated pressing iron orpressing machine.

AA10-14SSa-1301c. Fold the darts, matching the cutedges. Stitch along the entirelength of the darts, beginning 3/8inch from the raw edge at the bottomend and tapering to a point at thetop end.

AA10-14SSa-1301b. Properly position the respectivebacks with edges even and seamtogether along the center back fromthe neck to the bottom edge with a3/8 inch seam.

a. The inside and outside back,shall each be made from two plies ofrayon lining.

Finished appearance. The back seamsshall start and finish evenly andshall be smooth and flat withoutgathers, puckers or pleats.

Join back and seam darts.16

b. Press the pleat smooth and flatwith a heated pressing iron.

AA10-14SSa-1301a. Fold the front lining inaccordance with the notches in thepattern and stitch across the widthof the pleat 1/8 to 3/16 inch fromeach end.

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a. Position facing-lining assemblyon the outside of the respectivefronts, with the upper edge of neckextension and front edges even.

Finished appearance. The facing-lining assemblies shall be joined tothe fronts in such a way as toproduct smooth and flat seamswithout pleats, puckers or gathersin the finished vest.

Join facing-lining assemblies tofront with tapes.

18

e. Turn the backs face side out andpress the seam smooth and flat witha heated pressing iron or pressingmachine. The bottom seam shall notbe visible on the outside of theadjustment strap side of the back.

AA10-14SSa-1301d. Position the back componentsface to face, with edges even andcenter seams matching, and joiningtogether along the bottom edge witha 3/8 inch seam.

AA10-14SSv-1301c. Stitch straps to back with asingle row of stitches across thewidth of the straps through the seamallowance of each back dart.

Stitch adjustment straps to back.(cont'd)

17

AA10-14SSa-1301b. Stitch straps to back 1/8 to 1/4inch from raw side edges.

a. Position the adjustment strapson the face side of the back (i.e.,one strap at each side edge) withthe underside (seamed side) of thestraps facing down and the raw wideend of the strap even with the rawside edge of the back.

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CommercialWhite

4-6Hand or101

e. Baste along the front, bottomand armhole edges.

d. Turn each front right side out,through their respective shoulder,forcing out the seams.

AA10-14SSa-1301c. Complete the closing of the neckextensions of the fronts and facingwith 1/4 inch seams, catching theends of the neck seams in thestitching.

b. Spread each seam open and presssmooth and flat with a heatedpressing iron.

AA10-14SSa-1301a. Properly position the right andleft ends of neck extension for thefacing and fronts at center back andjoin respectively with a 1/4 inchseam.

Join neck.19

AA10-14SSa-1301c. Join the lining to the frontsalong the armhole with a 3/8 inchseam. Clip or notch the seamallowance along the armhole forbetter turning.

Join facing-lining assemblies tofront with tapes. (cont'd)

18

AA10-14SSab-1301b. Join facing-lining assemblies tothe front with a 1/4 inch seam andwith the stay tape positioned on theinside of the front 1/8 inch fromthe edge and caught in thestitching. The line of stitchingshall extend from within 1 inch ofthe ends of the neck extension,along the front and bottom edge tothe side edge, catching the loweredge of the lining pleat in thestitching. The stay tape is notrequired along the right front wherethe eyelets are located.

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a. Position right and left frontsbetween the plies of the respectiveback lining with edges even, notchesmatching and lower edge of frontabutting the lower joining seam ofback lining.

Finished appearance. The seamsshall be carefully joined withouttwists, puckers or pleats. Theseams shall start and finish evenly.The back lining shall be over thefronts. The lower joining seam forthe back lining shall not be visibleon the outside of the vest.

Join back lining to fronts.21

A(silk

)

A(silk

)

12-16SSa-1301c. Tack the upper and lower roundedcorners of the lapel to the fronts,through all plies, in line with theedge stitching for a distance ofapproximately 1 inch.

Finish front. (cont'd)20

b. Remove all basting and press theedges of lapel, front and bottomedges of the vest smooth and flatwith a heated pressing iron orpressing machine, removing thefullness. Turn lapel back over thefront and crease along the breaklinesmooth and flat.

A(silk

)

A(silk

)

12-16SSe-2(b)

301a. Edgestitch the vest along thefront, bottom and armhole 1/16 inchfrom the seamed edges.

Finished appearance. Fronts shallfinish smooth and flat withoutdistortion. The edge stitchingshall be of uniform width withouttwisting, pleating or puckering andshall finish smooth and flat.

Finish front.20

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a. Mark the left front for thelocation of four buttonholes toalign with the eyelets in the rightfront.

Finished appearance. Thebuttonholes shall be clean-cut, wellmade and correctly positioned. Thestitching shall be securely caughtin the fabric.

Make buttonholes.23

AA10-14SSb-2301a. Assemble buckle to the leftstrap by turning under the left endof the strap through the buckle 3/4to 7/8 inch. Secure buckle to strapby stitching and backstitching theend of the strap to the body of thestrap 3/8 inch from the end. Stitchacross the full width of the strap.

Finished appearance. Buckle shallbe securely attached and properlyassembled to the left strap.

Attach buckle.22

C(silk

)

8-10Hande. Pull fronts through the neckopening. Turn under the raw topedges of the back liningapproximately 3/8 inch and fell thefolded edges to the respective neckextension of front and front facing.

AA10-14SSa-1301d. Join the back lining to thefront at the shoulder with a 3/8inch seam. The seam shall extendfrom the armhole seam toapproximately 3/8 to 1/2 inch fromthe upper neck edge of the backlining.

c. Notch the seam allowance aroundarmholes for better turning.

40/340/310-14SSa-1301b. Join the back to the frontsalong the sides, through all plies,with a row of stitches in line withthe upper and lower notches formingan outlet at the side seams.Continue to stitch the back liningalong the armhole up to the shoulderseam using a 3/8 inch seam.

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a. Attach four 22-line insigniabuttons to the right front withshank of buttons inserted througheyelets and secured by ringfasteners.

Finished appearance. The buttonsshall be properly attached to thevest. The buttons shall be properlyaligned with the buttonholes tosecure a smooth and complete closurewithout bulging or misalignment.

Attach buttons.26

b. Finish press the lining.

a. Press the entire vest, removingall wrinkles.

Finished appearance. Pressing shallbe done with a heated pressing ironor pressing machine of a typesuitable to obtain the desired shapeand appearance in accordance withgood manufacturing practice.

Press vest.25

b. Remove all spots, shade tickets,markers and stains from the vestwithout injury to the material.

a. Trim all ends of stitchings andremove all loose threads from thevest.

Clean vest.24

40/340/321 perbartack(min)

Bartackd. Securely bartack the end of eachbuttonhole and trim the ends of thegimp.

c. The buttonholes shall be wellworked over gimp to fit the 22-linebutton. The gimp shall be pulledthrough to the underside. Thepurling shall be on the outside.

A(silk

)

A(silk

)

60 per

button-hole(min)

Button-hole

b. Make a horizontal, eyelet-end,square-bar type buttonhole, cut 5/8inch, at each of the marks on theleft front. The inside edge of thebuttonhole eyelet shall finish 3/8to 1/2 inch from the front edge.

BOB/LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/STCHTYPE

STCHTYPEOPERATIONN

O


MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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3.6.1.1. Stitches, seams and stitchings. The stitch, seam andstitching types specified in Table I shall conform toFED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified inTable I indicate the minimum and maximum number permitted.

3.6.1.2. Tacking and backstitching. Ends of seams and stitchingproduced with 301 type stitch, when not caught in other seams orstitchings shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch; threadbreaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back ofbreak not less than 1/2 inch.

3.6.2 Shade marking. The component parts of the vest, exceptthose parts which may be cut from ends (see Table I, operation1.d), shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade sizethroughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be usedexcept:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets where adhesive causesdiscoloration or whose adhesive mass adheres to the material uponremoval of the tickets.

3.6.3 Fusing operations. The fusing operations for fusing thefusible interlining specified in 3.3.3 to the basic fabric of theouter shell specified in 3.3.1 should be performed on a fusingpress. Specific settings (see 6.5) for the particular fusingstyle and press to be used should be obtained from the supplierof the fusible material so that optimum results can be obtained.

3.7. Finished measurements. The finished vest shall conform tothe measurements specified in Table II.

TABLE II. Finished measurements. 1/

18-1/218-3/41919-1/419-1/2

3739414345

3638404244

Short

Back length 3/(inches)

Breast 2/(inches)

Size(inches)

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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20-1/220-3/42121-1/421-1/221-3/4

373941434547

363840424446

Long

19-1/219-3/42020-1/420-1/220-3/4

373941434547

363840424446

Regular

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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2222-1/422-1/222-3/423

3739414345

3638404244

Extra Long

Back length 3/(inches)

Breast 2/(inches)

Size(inches)

TABLE II. Finished measurements - Continued. 1/

1/ Tolerance - + 1/2 inch

2/ Breast measurement taken with vest buttoned or in buttonedposition, from folded edge to folded edge in line with pit ofarmhole; multiple by 2.

3/ Back length measurement taken along center back seam from topedge of neckline to bottom edge of vest.

3.8. Workmanship. This vest shall conform to the quality andgrade of product established by this specification.

3.9. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferablematerials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferablematerials should be used to the maximum extent possible providedthat the material meets or exceeds the operational andmaintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageouslife cycle costs.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1. Classification of inspection. The inspection requirementsspecified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.3).b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4).

4.2. Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, allinspections shall be performed in accordance with the provisionsset forth in ANSI/ASQC Z1.4.

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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4.3. First article inspection. When first article is required,inspection shall be made of a completely fabricated vest for allprovisions of this specification.

4.4. Conformance inspection.

4.4.1 Testing of components. Testing of components shall be inaccordance with the applicable subsidiary specifications andstandards to the extend applicable, except that thisspecification shall govern in the event of conflict.

4.4.2 In-process inspection. Inspection will be made at anypoint or during any phase of the manufacturing process todetermine whether operations or assemblies are performed asspecified herein. The Government reserves the right to excludefrom consideration for acceptance any material or service forwhich in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.4.3 Examination of the end item. The end item shall beexamined for defects listed in 4.4.3.1, 4.4.3.2 and 4.4.3.3.

4.4.3.1. General defects. General defects shall be classified asfollows:

202

103

d. Not corresponding to size ofbutton (front): - too small, not permittingbutton to enter buttonhole. - too large, 3/8 inch or morelonger than the diameter ofbutton (measured at inside ofpurling).

102c. Buttonhole or eyelet notsecurely caught on fabric causingstitching to pull away fromfabric.

201b. Wrong type buttonhole oreyelet.

101a. One or more omitted or added.Buttonholesand eyelets(construction)

MinorMajorDefectsExamine

Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

24


214215

107

m. Stitches per buttonhole onfront (excluding bartack) lessthan minimum specified: - one or two stitches. - three stitches. - four or more stitches.

213l. Ends of gimp not pulledthrough on the underside of oneor more buttonholes.

212k. Poorly made affectingappearance (unless otherwiseclassified).

211j. Ragged edges, affectingappearance.

210i. Gimp omitted in one or morebuttonholes.

207208209

h. More than two skipped stitchesin one or more buttonholes oreyelets: - front buttonholes. - one eyelet. - two or more eyelets.

205

206105

106

g. One or more broken stitchesin: - one buttonhole. - two or more buttonholes. - one eyelet. - two or more eyelets.

203204

f. Bartack misplaced: - on one buttonhole. - on two or more buttonholes.

104

e. Bartack omitted or loose onone or more buttonholes: - front buttonholes.

Buttonholesand eyelets(construction)(cont'd)


Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

25


224b. Any hole.

223a. Any weakening defect such assmash, multiple float, looseslub, etc., that may develop intoa hole.

Materialdefects anddamages

112a. Any component part of basicmaterial not cut in accordancewith directional lines onpatterns, or in accordance withspecification requirements.

Cutting

222b. Any component part or requiredoperation omitted (not hereinclassified).

221a. Any defective component ordefect of assembly (not hereinclassified).

Components andassembly

220c. Thread ends not trimmed, loosethread ends, two or more shademarkings, or basting not removedthroughout garment (to be scoredwhen the condition exists onmajor portion on vest).

111b. One or more spots or stains ofan obvious permanent nature.

219110

a. One or more removable spots orstains clearly noticeable: - on outside. - on inside.

Cleanness

NOTE: Buttons shall be considered defective if they havesharp, rough or cracked edges; scratches, blemishes orimbedded foreign matter on face side of button, looseshanks; or badly shaded.

218b. Not specified type or size.

217109

a. Missing, loose or defective: - one button or ring toggle. - two or more buttons or ringtoggles.

Buttons orring toggle

108o. Buttonhole finished withpurling on inside.

216n. Any uncut buttonholes.Buttonholesand eyelets(construction)(cont'd)


Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

26


233 2. Part of garment caught inany unrelated operation orstitching.

232 1. Seams twisted, puckered, orpleated affecting appearance(unless otherwise classified).

a. Accuracy of seaming.Seams andstitching

231d. Basting or pressingimpressions not removed on majorportion of vest.

230c. Poorly pressed (unlessotherwise classified).

229b. Pressing omitted (entiregarment).

228a. Burned or scorched.Pressing

NOTE: Material defects and workmanship damages are to beclassified as indicated above only when the condition isone which definitely weakens the fabric or when it is soconspicuously located as to be clearly noticeable.Weakening or nonweakening conditions which areinconspicuous and have negligible effect onserviceability are to be classified as follows:

Material defect - No defect Workmanship damages - Minor defect

227e. Scissors or knife cut, tear,mend or burn.

226d. Needle chews which may developinto a hole.

225c. Shade bars, unsightly slubs,etc.


Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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e. Run offs (see classificationon seams).

NOTE: Raw edges shall be classified as such when they occur atplaces where an edge is required to be turned under orover and stitched.

244

245

2. On inside: - more than 1/4 inch butnot more than 1/2 inch. - more than 1/2 inch.

242243

1. On outside: - up to 1/8 inch inclusive. - more than 1/8 inch butnot more than 1/4 inch.

d. Raw edges.

240

241

2. On inside: - up to 1/4 inch or morebut not more than 1/2 inch. - more than 1/2 inch.

238239

113

1. On outside: - up to 1/4 inch inclusive. - more than 1/4 inch butnot more than 1/2 inch. - more than 1/2 inch.

c. Open seams.

237 2. Beyond range of widthspecified or varies more than1/16 inch when no range isspecified.

236 1. Irregular, i.e., unevenlygaged or various stitching notuniform, affecting appearance.

b. Gage of stitching (edge or topstitching).

235 4. Wrong shade or two shadesof thread used on outside of samevest.

234 3. Thread breaks or ends ofall stitching (when not caught inother seams or stitching) notsecurely backstitched.

Seams andstitching(cont'd)


Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

28


253a. Any outside part shaded.Shaded parts

117 2. More than 3/4 inch.

252 1. More than 1/4 inch but notmore than 3/4 inch.

i. Stitches skipped or broken (onedge or top stitching when seamis seamed, turned and stitched).

NOTE: To be scored only when condition exists on major portionof seam.

249250

251116

h. Stitches per inch (includinglabels) less than minimumspecified: - one or two stitches. - three stitches. - four or more stitches. - one or more on labels.

NOTE: Puckering is evidence of tight tension. When puckeringis evident, the inspector shall test seam by exertingnormal pull in the lengthwise direction of seam orstitching.

115 3. Tight tension (stitchesbreak when normal strain isapplied to seam or stitching).

114 2. Loose tension on edge orraised stitching resulting inloosely exposed bobbin thread ortop thread.

248 1. Loose tension, resulting inloose seams.

g. Stitch tension.

247 2. Wrong stitch type.

246 1. Wrong seam type.

f. Seam and stitch type.Seams andstitching(cont'd)


Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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4.4.3.2. Detailed defects applicable to specific parts. Detaileddefects shall be classified as follows:

263 2. Lapels poorly shaped or notof uniform size or shape.

262 1. Not uniform i.e., right andleft top edge of lapels vary inlength by 1/4 inch or more.

d. Lapel shape.

261 2. Tape partly on creased edgeor on lapel side.

260 1. Misplace, not servingintended purpose.

c. Bridle tape.

259 1. Bulky, irregular, or notproperly forced out, causingcrooked edges, affectingappearance.

b. Lapel edges.

258 2. Fullness or puckers,affecting appearance.

257 1. Twisted, short or tight,causing lapels to curl out,affecting appearance.

a. Lapel facings.Lapels

256a. Unbuttoned fronts unequal inlength by more than 1/2 inch.

Length offront

255 2. Position of frontbuttonhole from front edge: - less than 1/4 inch or morethan 3/4 inch.

254 1. Buttonhole on left frontnot in same horizontal positionas eyelet on right front by morethan 1/4 inch.

a. Outside of vest:Alignment andposition ofbuttonholesand eyelets

MinorMajorDefectExamine

Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

30


274b. Facing long, causing bottomcorner to curl up.

273a. Short, tight or twisted,causing excessive fullness ortwists on fronts.

Front facings

272f. Bottom corner of one or bothfronts poorly shaped, affectingappearance.

271e. Facing exposed on left frontedge, affecting appearance (scoreonly when clearly noticeable andthe condition exists along majorportion of seam).

270d. Front edge irregular or notproperly forced out, causingcrooked or curved edges,affecting appearance.

269c. Fronts rolling outward belowbutton.

268b. Bottom edge stretched,puckered or uneven, affectingappearance.

267a. Front edges stretched,affecting appearance.

Front andbottom edges

266 3. Raw edges of darts notpressed open.

265 2. Upper end of darts notbacktacked.

264 1. One or both darts notproperly tapered at top endcausing puckers or pleats,affecting appearance.

a. Front dart.Body (outside)

119a. Armhole seam crooked,affecting appearance.

Armhole

118a. Improperly joined or set,causing shoulders or back totwist.

Shoulder(construction)


Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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287 1. Less than 1/4 or more than1-1/2 inches wide at wide end.

a. Construction and setting.Straps

286 2. Finished width of welt lessthan 7/8 inch or more than 1-1/8inch.

285

121

1. Welt pockets out ofhorizontal alignment: - by more than 3/8 inch butnot more than 5/8 inch. - by more than 5/8 inch.

b. Pocket alignment anddimensions.

284 6. Topstitching of weltomitted.

283 5. Irregular in width by morethan 1/8 inch.

282 4. Poorly shaped or notuniform in shape or in size,affecting appearance.

281 3. Tape stitching exposed andvisible on outside surface.

280 2. Tape along creased edgeomitted.

279 1. Top edge of welt short,causing puckering in front or tooloose causing welt to gap,affecting appearance.

a. Construction and setting.Welt pockets

278a. Seams not pressed open withheated pressing iron.

Body seams

277c. Not stitched on four sides.

276b. Incorrect or illegible.

120a. Omitted.Identificationinstructionlabel

275 1. Missing, incorrect,illegible or not securely caughtin stitching.

a. Inside of vest.Size label


Classification

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

32


290 4. Lower edge of strap lessthan 3-1/2 inches or more than3-1/2 inches from bottom finishededge of back, measured from wideend of strap.

289

3. Straps out of horizontalalignment by: - more than 3/8 inch butnot more than 5/8 inch.

288 2. Less than 5/8 or more than3/4 inches wide at narrow end.


Classification

4.4.3.3. Size measurement. Any measurement deviating fromnominal dimension and tolerance specified in Table II shall beclassified as a size measurement defect. Measurements will bemade at points described in footnotes below Table II.

4.4.4 Bond strength of fusible interlining. The strength of thebond of the fusible interlining to the outer fabric shall betested once every four hours as follows at each fusing press todetermine that adequate fusing is being obtained. Prepare a testsample by fusing the fusible specified in 3.3.1 under the samefusing conditions to be used in the manufacture of the vest.Determine the bond strength of the test sample with a commercialspring scale (see 6.6). If the bond strength on any test sampleis less than 22 ounces per inch of the width, the fusingconditions shall be corrected and the bond strength shall berepeated. Those units represented by this test shall be fusedagain and retested. If they fail, they shall be rejected.

5. PACKAGING

5.1. Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packagingrequirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed byDepartment of Defense (DoD) personnel, these personnel need tocontact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisitepackaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained bythe Inventory Control Point's packaging activity within theMilitary Department of Defense Agency, or within the MilitaryDepartment's Systems Command. Packaging data retrieval isavailable from the managing Military Department's or Defense

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

33


Agency's automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or bycontacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general orexplanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1. Intended use. The vest covered by this specification isintended for wear, by U.S. Marine Corps male general officers,with the evening dress uniform.

6.2. Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents mustspecify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of the specification.b. Issue of DoDISS to be cited in the solicitation, and if

required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced(see 2.2).

c. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).d. Size required (see 1.2).e. When first article is not required (see 3.2 and 4.3).

6.3. Standard sample. The standard sample and color sample maybe obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by thecontracting officer.

6.4. Figures. Figures 1 through 3 show general design of thevest and are furnished for information only. In the event ofconflict between these figures and the text of thisspecification, the text of this specification will govern.

6.5. Fusing conditions. Specific machine setting should beobtained from the supplier of the particular fusible material foroptimum results. The following fusing conditions include therecommendations of several suppliers of fusible material and arefurnished for guidance only:

a. Temperature between pressing surfaces of 300oF minimumand 320oF maximum, at the fuseline (not the temperature at theclock).

b. Pressure between pressing surfaces of 6 pounds forceper square inch (1bf/in2) minimum and 7 lbf/in2 maximum.

c. Pressing time of 12 seconds minimum and 14 secondsmaximum.

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

34


d. Heat-dry.

6.6. Peel strength test. The procedure for the peel strengthtesting with a spring scale should be obtained from the supplierof the fusible material, and be accomplished two hours afterfusing (see 4.4.4).

6.7. Subject term (keyword) listing.

Evening dressMaleWaist-coat

6.8. Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are notused in this revision to identify changes with respect to theprevious issue due to the extent of the changes.

Preparing Activity:Navy - MC

Project No. 8405-N308

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

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Figure 1. Vest, Man's - Scarlet, Dress (General Officer's)

MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

36



MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

37



MIL-DTL-29389B(MC)

38


STANDARDIZATION DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL

INSTRUCTIONS

1.Thepreparing activiiy must complete blocks 1,2,3, and8. lnblo&l, both thedocument number endrevtion letter should begiven.

2. Thesubmitter ofthkform mustcomplete blo&s4,5,6, end7.

3. Theprepatig aclivky must provide araplywithin 30daysfrom raceiptof the form.

UOTE: Thkfommay net beusedto request copimef documents, nortorequesf waivem, orclarification ofrequirements oncument contracts.

reply authorization Ie waive any portien ef the referenced document(s) or to amend centrnctual requirements.

Comments submitted on this form do not constitute or

2. OOCUMENT OATE (YYMMOO)iil%W!!&iWB(MC) 970811

3. OOCUMENT TITLE VEST, MAN’S-SCARLET, DRESS (GENERAL OFFICER’S)

!. NATURE OF CHANGE (identify paragraph number andinclude proposed rewrite, ifpossibla. Attechextr ashaetsasneeded.)

j. REASON FOR RECOMMENDATION

B. PREPARING ACTIVfTY

n. NAMECOMMANDER, MARCORSYSCOM, PSE-D

b. TELEPfiONE (iisfude Area Coda)

{l)Commwical (2I AUTOVON

(703) 7844584

c. AOORESS (fncfude ZwCoile) IF YOU DO NOT RECEIVE A REPLY WITHIN 45 OAYS, CONTACT

2033 BARNEIT AVE, SUITE 315 Oefwcae Ouafity and Gtandarduation Offica

QUANTICO, VA 22134-5010 5203 Leesburg Pko, Suiie 1403, Falls Church. VA 22041-3466

Talephene (703) 7W2340 Autovon 289-2340

DO FORM 1426, OCT 69 (EFI Previous editiens are obseleta.


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