In the steps of Cézanne

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IN THE STEPS OF CÉZANNE

Transcript of In the steps of Cézanne

Page 1: In the steps of Cézanne

IN THE STEPSOF CÉZANNE

Page 2: In the steps of Cézanne

Paul Cézanne was born in Rue de l’Opéra in 1839 and died in Rue Boulegon in 1906.

He was passionately attached to Aix and Provence, and summed his love up in a

single sentence when he was away: “When you’re born there, it’s hopeless, nothing

else is good enough». It was while walking in the Aix countryside as a teenager with

Émile Zola that he realised he was an artist. The particular light of Provence guided

him on his creative path to the threshold of abstraction. And it is in Aix-en-Provence

and the surrounding area that you can share Cézanne’s experience intensely today,

as you visit the streets, places and landscapes that marked the life, the outlook and

the work of the father of modern painting… «the father of us all!» Picasso said.

IN CÉZANNE’S COUNTRY

Page 3: In the steps of Cézanne

IN THE HEARTOF AIX-EN-PROVENCE

FROM AIX-EN-PROVENCETO THE MEDITERRANEAN

Walk in Cézanne’s footsteps and visit the city as he experienced it…

A pedestrian route marked by studs stamped with a “C” leads you

from the house where the painter was born to his final resting place

in Saint-Pierre cemetery. Discover the landmarks of his early years

(the houses where he lived as a child, his schools, etc), the places that

marked him, the addresses of his family and acquaintances, the cafés

where he met his friends and other artists… From classical elegance

to Baroque opulence, Aix’s architectural heritage is the setting for

your walk in the old town and its surroundings. see route overleaf

To the east, discover the Sainte-Victoire mountain by the Cézanne

Road: 75 km around the massif, leaving from Le Tholonet, with stops

at the Trois Sautets bridge (Meyreuil) and La Barque (Fuveau), other

motifs of the painter. Magnificent panoramas of the mountain from

Beaurecueil and Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon.

15 km to the south is Gardanne: Cézanne stayed there between 1885

and 1886. On the Frères hill a path has been laid, dotted with repro-

ductions of the paintings, showing the development of Cézanne’s

structural design. An open-air museum has been created at the spot

where the artist worked. Beautiful view of the Sainte-Victoire from

the path to the chapel of Notre-Dame-des-Maures.

30 km to the south is L’Estaque, where Cézanne worked and lived

intermittently between 1864 and 1885. Here you will find some of

his other sources of inspiration. From the «painters’ path» you can

see the bay of Marseille, also immortalised by other artists, notably

Braque, Derain and Dufy.

cezanne-en-provence.com

Cezanne

Page 4: In the steps of Cézanne

Open the door of Atelier de Cézanne – or the Lauves studio – and enter the artist’s private world. Discover the house where he became a painter, exploring the grounds and the family house of

bastide du Jas de Bouffan. Admire a few of his works in the space dedicated to him in the Musée Granet.

In the Carrières de Bibémus, look through Cézanne’s eyes at the Sainte-Victoire opposite you (photo) or admire other panoramas

of the mountain from Beaurecueil and Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon.

THE CÉZANNE SITES

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5 HOME OF HORTENSE AND PAUL CÉZANNE JUNIOR • 9, rue Frédéric Mistral. On 12 February 1891, after their trip to Switzerland, Cézanne reduced the allowance of his wife and son so that they would return to Aix. As Hortense had fallen out with her in-laws, Cézanne set them up in this apartment while he lived at the Jas de Bouffan house with his mother and sister.

6 ÉCOLE DE DESSIN - MUSÉE GRANET • Place Saint-Jean de Malte.A student here from 1857 to 1862, Cézanne took life model classes and lessons in drawing antiquities in which the models were plasters and marbles conserved in the museum. On 25 August 1859 he received the School’s second prize for drawing.

7 CHURCH OF SAINT-JEAN DE MALTE • Place Saint-Jean de Malte.Funeral of Mrs Cézanne senior, on 27 October 1897.

8 CHAPELLE DES PÉNITENTS BLANCS • Rue du Maréchal Joffre.The Bourguignon de Fabregoules collection, bequeathed to the city of Aix for the Granet Museum, was shown in this former chapel for ten years, from 1866 to 1876. On 19 October 1866 Cézanne wrote to Zola: «As Father Gibert from the museum had invited me to visit the Bourguignon Museum, I went with Baille, Marion and Valabrègue. I found it all bad.»

9 CIMETIÈRE SAINT-PIERRE • Cézanne was buried here on 24 October 1906 (lane n° 6). The ashes of John Rewald, the art historian who founded the Cézanne’s Studio museum, have been here since 1994.

10 HOUSE OF CÉZANNE’S BIRTH • 28, rue de l’Opéra. Paul born on 19 January 1839, in a charitable institution run by the Misses Michel, near Miss Aube’s boarding school of the Nativity.

11 STUDIO OF PHILIPPE SOLARI • Rue de l’Opéra. The sculptor Philippe Solari (1840-1906) was a childhood friend of Cézanne.

12 HOME OF ÉMILE BERNARD • 9, rue de l’Opéra. On 4 February 1904, on his return from Egypt via Marseille, the painter Émile Bernard visited Cézanne in Aix for the first time.

IN THE HEART OF AIX IN THE STEPS OF CÉZANNE WALKING TOUR - Unaccompanied Follow the studs marked “C” on the ground

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE

1 STATUE OF CÉZANNE • Next to the Tourist Office. Bronze by Gabriel Sterk, donated to the city in 2006 by the Aix-en-Œuvres association.

2 LA SOCIÉTÉ DES AMIS DES ARTS • 2 bis, avenue Victor Hugo. Founded in 1894, the company moved into these premises, a former garage, in 1895. Cézanne exhibited paintings there on three occasions: 1895: The Arc Valley and landscape (study). 1902: Meadow at Jas de Bouffan, Near Aix and Still Life. 1906: Château du Diable otherwise known as Château Noir on the Tho-lonet road.

3 COLLÈGE MIGNET • 41, rue Cardinale (formerly Collège Bourbon). Cézanne was a pupil here from 1852 (first year of secondary school) to 1858. After failing the first session of the arts baccalaureate on 4 August 1858, Cézanne passed it with 60-70% on 12 November 1858. This is where he became friends with the writer Émile Zola, the scientist Jean-Baptistin Baille, and Louis Marguery.

4 HOME OF MARIE CÉZANNE • 8, rue Frédéric Mistral (formerly Rue de la Monnaie). Marie, the artist’s sister, lived here in 1897 (letter from Cézanne to Solari dated 30 January 1897).

Page 7: In the steps of Cézanne

13 CÉZANNE FAMILY HOME From 1878 to 1881, and then the Conil home • 20, rue Émeric David. Around 16 September, Mrs Cézanne se-nior left L’Estaque and the family moved to this new address. The house, which cost 16,500 Francs, was part of Rose’s dowry. Cézanne’s nieces and nephews born: Marthe-Anna-Marie Conil on 3 October 1882, Ma-rie-Antoinette-Paule Conil on 3 May 1885, Marie-Rose-Amélie Conil on 27 December 1888, and Louis Conil on 20 September 1892.

14 HOME OF THE PAINTER ACHILLE EMPERAIRE • 15, rue Émeric David where Cézanne stayed for a month and rented an apartment from Mrs de S… before moving into the ground floor of the Lauves studio.

15 FORMER COURS MIRABEAU HAT SHOP • Home of Louis-Au-guste Cézanne • 55, cours Mirabeau. After working in the Aix factory of the wool merchant Dethés, Paul’s father Louis-Auguste Cézanne left and went to Paris to learn the hatter’s trade. On his return in 1825, he worked in the Carbonnel workshop at this address and met Anne-Éli-sabeth Aubert, who was a hat-maker at the time. After the birth of Paul, Anne-Élisabeth Aubert and her baby moved in with the child’s father.

16 CAFÉ DES DEUX GARÇONS • 53 bis, cours Mirabeau (ground floor of the Gantès Hotel). On 7 October 1906 Cézanne wrote to his son: «Yesterday evening before dinner, from 4 to about 7pm, I was with Capdeville (the pharmacist), Niolon (the painter), Fernand Bouteille (pre-sident of the Bar), etc, at the Café des Deux Garçons.»

17 APARTMENT OF MRS CÉZANNE SENIOR • 30, cours Mirabeau.She lived here from 1895 onwards. From June to September 1897, Cézanne visited his mother every evening and dined with her: «He has supper in the evening and stays the night with his mother, whom he cares for tenderly. She is disabled; he takes her out in the car, and to enjoy the sunshine at Le Jas. She is as slim and slight as a child, and he carries her himself, in his arms which are still strong, from the car to her chair. He is constantly telling her affectionate jokes.» This is where she died, on 25 October 1897.

18 CÉZANNE FAMILY HOME from 1844 to 1850 • 14, rue de la Gla-cière. The registered residence of Louis-Auguste Cézanne at the time of

his wedding in 1844. In the marriage contract drawn up on 10 January 1844, Louis-Auguste is mentioned as a former hatter, house-owner, with no profession.

19 RUE DES BAGNIERS FOUNTAINIn 1926 the art dealer Ambroise Vollard gave the city a bronze medal made by the sculptor Richard Guino, a student of Maillol, based on a drawing and instructions by Renoir.

20 CHURCH OF LA MADELEINE • Place des Prêcheurs. Christening of Paul Cézanne, 20 February 1839. Christening of Paul’s sister Marie Cézanne, 7 July 1841. Wedding of Louis-Auguste Cézanne and Élisabeth Aubert, 30 January 1844. Blessing of marriage of Paul’s second sister Rose Cézanne to Maxime Conil, 27 February 1881.

21 HOME OF JOACHIM GASQUET • 30, rue Portalis (formerly Rue Saint-Louis). The poet and novelist Joachim Gasquet (1873-1921) sat for Cézanne in 1896. This portrait, one of the painter’s most famous, is in the Národní Gallery in Prague. Cézanne stayed with Gasquet in 1899 while work was being done on his apartment at 23, rue Boulegon.

22 HOME OF PAUL CÉZANNE’S MATERNAL GRANDMOTHER23, rue Suffren.

23 SAINT-JOSEPH CATHOLIC SCHOOL • 16, cours Saint-Louis.Cézanne was a pupil here from 1850 to 1852. He met Henri Gasquet, the father of the poet and art critic Joachim.

24 CÉZANNE’S LAST APARTMENT • 23, rue Boulegon.In the autumn of 1899, after the Jas de Bouffan house was sold, Cézanne moved into this, his last home; it was here that he died of pleurisy on 23 October 1906, at 7am.

25 FATHER’S BANK • 13, rue Boulegon. In 1856 the bank moved to this new address. This is where Paul agreed to work after his time in Paris.

Page 8: In the steps of Cézanne

26 MUNICIPAL SCHOOL • Rue des Épinaux. Cézanne was a pupil here from 1844 to 1850. This is where he met Philippe Solari, who became a sculptor.

27 CÉZANNE FAMILY HOME FROM 1850 TO 1870 • 14, rue Matheron.Rose Cézanne born on 1 June 1854. Cézanne spent his youth partly here and partly at the Jas de Bouffan house. The 1860 census mentions Paul Cézanne, «clerk», as living at this address.

28 HÔTEL DE VILLE • Marriage ceremony of Paul Cézanne and Hortense Fiquet on 28 April 1886.

29 FATHER’S BANK • 24, rue des CordeliersThe Cézanne et Cabassol bank, with capital of 100,000 Francs, opened for business on 1 June 1848.

30 CHURCH OF SAINT-JEAN-BAPTISTE DU FAUBOURG • 34, cours Sextius. Blessing of marriage of Paul Cézanne and Hortense Fiquet, the day after their civil wedding, 29 April 1886. Funeral of Paul’s father, Louis-Auguste Cézanne, 24 October 1886.

31 FACULTÉ DE DROIT • Place de l’Université. Cézanne enrolled here on 16 December 1858. He passed the first exam but did not enrol for the new academic year in 1860, his final degree year, which would have enabled him to practise as a barrister and magistrate.

32 SAINT-SAUVEUR CATHEDRAL • 34, place Martyrs de la Résistance Christening of Rose Cézanne, 5 June 1854. Funeral of Paul Cézanne on Wednesday 24 October 1906 at 10am. «On Sundays we went to mass. He was dressed in his best. He sat in the Factory pew and followed the service attentively. I had seen Cézanne here before, below the big painting of the Burning Bush, in which Moses looks uncannily like him.» (Émile Bernard)

AIX, THE CITY OF CÉZANNE Presentation of Cézanne sites on Google Open Gallerybit.ly/aixcezanne

Atelier de Cézanne

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EROUTE DE GALICE

CHEMIN DE BIBÉMUS

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ROUTE DE VAUVENARGUES

Carrières de Bibémus

Jas de Bouan

AIX CENTRE

Terrain des peintres

25 mn (1,4 km) à pied depuis l’Oce de Tourisme

45 mn (5,4 km) à pied depuis l’Oce de Tourisme

20 mn (1,1 km) à pied depuis l’Oce de Tourisme

16 mn (2 km) à pied depuis l’Atelier de Cézanne

Au

toro

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A51

Autoroute A8

Bastide du

Parking des3 Bons Dieux

• Atelier de Cézanne 9, avenue Paul Cézanne 13090 Aix-en-Provence

GPS : 43°32’19 N - 5°26’46 E

• Bastide du Jas de Bouffan 17, route de Galice 13100 Aix-en-Provence

GPS : 43°31’41 N - 5°25’54 E

• Carrières de Bibémus 3090, chemin de Bibémus 13100 Aix-en-Provence

GPS : 43°31’52 N - 5°30’02 E

• Terrain des peintres Chemin de la Marguerite 13090 Aix-en-Provence

GPS : 43°32’52 N - 5°26’30 E

Page 9: In the steps of Cézanne

cezanne-en-provence.com

infos + 33 (0)4 42 16 11 61

Listed as historical monuments, the Jas de Bouffan house and its

grounds are open for guided tours to see what the family property

was for Cézanne: a place to live, an anchor point, the stage for his first

paintings and an artist’s studio.

On the ground floor, young Cézanne painted 12 murals. He also

set up his easel in the grounds, in front of the house, the farm, the

copses and the avenue of chestnut trees, the pond and its statues…

In all, 36 oil paintings and 17 water-colours were painted here bet-

ween 1859 and 1899. The orangerie was restored in 2013 and the

restoration of the house will follow.

IN THE HOUSE WHERE IT ALL STARTED

LA BASTIDE DU JAS DE BOUFFAN17, route de Galice - 45 minutes visit

It is here, on the Lauves hill, among the objects he

treasured, the models of his last still lifes, his furniture and

his work tools, that you will feel the painter’s presence

most intensely. From 1902 until his death in 1906,

Cézanne worked every morning in this studio of light

and silence, the birthplace of dozens of paintings that

are now owned by the world’s great museums, including

the last series of Large Bathers. The studio has a shop

selling books and souvenirs, regularly hosts temporary

exhibitions and holds cultural events in season.

IN THE PAINTER’S PRIVATE WORLD

L’ATELIER DE CÉZANNE OU ATELIER DES LAUVES9, avenue Paul Cézanne - 30 minutes visit

atelier-cezanne.com

info +33(0)4 42 21 06 53

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cezanne-en-provence.com

infos + 33 (0)4 42 16 11 61

Ten of Cézanne’s oil-paintings are owned by this

museum which is considered as one of the finest in

France, as well as a set of water-colours and drawings

which are exhibited every three years to ensure their

conservation.

Cézanne studied drawing in this building from 1857 to

1862: the former priory of the Order of Malta housed

a free school, set up by the City of Aix after its collec-

tion of art works was installed there in 1828. Many of

these works were used for educational purposes: as

a student, Cézanne copied paintings such as Frillié’s

Kiss of the Muse, The Prisoner of Chillon by Edouard

Dubuffe and Peaches on a Dish of the 17th-century

French school, and these compositions are often found

in his still lifes.

INSIDE THE WORK OF CÉZANNE

LE MUSÉE GRANET Place Saint-Jean de Malte

This is where Cubism took its first steps, on this rocky plateau of

7 hectares, which was worked as a stone quarry for the monuments

of Aix until the 18th century. When Cézanne discovered the quar-

ries they were abandoned and overgrown with vegetation, but the

ochre-coloured rock had retained the shapes formed by the work of

man. Between 1895 and 1904 Cézanne produced paintings of this

extraordinary architecture, this outstanding work of nature, such as

The Red Rock, which are now world-famous.

Now in the heart of the Grand Site Sainte-Victoire, the majestic ap-

pearance of the Bibémus quarries can be seen as you follow a route

around the hut where the artist kept his paintings, and sometimes slept.

IN THE MAGIC OF INSPIRATION

LES CARRIÈRES DE BIBÉMUS3090, chemin de Bibémus - 1 hour visit

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Page 11: In the steps of Cézanne

A LIFE-SIZE PAINTING

LE TERRAIN DES PEINTRESThe queen of his childhood landscapes, and the

obsession of his life as an artist, the Sainte-Victoire

mountain dominates the painter’s work: 44 oil pain-

tings and 43 water-colours of it are conserved in the

world’s great museums and in private collections.

The most famous pictures were painted from this

marvellous vantage point on Chemin de la Marguerite

on the Lauves hill. The city of Aix-en-Provence has

created the Painters’ Ground here: facing the moun-

tain, nine reproductions on lava stone of Cézanne’s

finest «Sainte-Victoire» invite you to contemplation…

Chemin de la Marguerite, north of Atelier de Cézanne

Designed by internationally famous contemporary

artist Jean-Michel Othoniel, La Rose des Vents is a

monumental mobile sculpture 5.70m high. With its

steel base and beads of gold-coloured stainless steel,

it stands on the Belvedere of the Beisson estate, which

is close to Cézanne’s studio and offers spectacular

views over the city and Sainte-Victoire mountain.

cité Beisson, rue Vincent Auriol, est of Atelier de Cézanne

LA ROSE DES VENTS

Page 12: In the steps of Cézanne

PR

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INFO

VISIT THECÉZANNE SITES ATELIER DE CÉZANNE, BASTIDE DU JAS DE BOUFFAN, CARRIÈRES DE BIBÉMUS Only the Studio may be visited without a guide.

Individuals: booking recommended

Informations + 33 (0)4 42 16 11 61

aixenprovencetourism.com

(Cézanne Sites page)

Groups: booking required

+ 33 (0)4 42 16 00 25

[email protected]

Animals not allowed (except assistance animals).

Cézanne Passport / 1 price for 3 sites

Individuals € 12

Groups € 10 per person (at least 15 people)

(excludes shuttle bus to Bibémus quarries)

Single site / price per site

Individuals € 5.50

Groups € 4 per person (at least 15 people)

Concessions € 2 (young people aged 13-25)

Free for under 13s, persons on benefits,

long-term job seekers, disabled,

press, ICOM and tour guides.

Proof of status must be shown.

TICKETS For each site, Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office

For the Studio only: Fnac, Carrefour, Géant, Système U,

Intermarché, www.fnac.com, www.carrefour.fr,

www.francebillet.com

+ (33) 0 892 692 694 (0.34 €/m)

Complete list of sales points per département

at www.dispobillet.com.

GETTING HEREBUS

routes and times + 33 (0)9 70 80 90 13

www.aixenbus.fr

• ATELIER DE CÉZANNE / cars: Pasteur car park recommended /

coaches: marked parking area on Avenue Raymond Poincaré.

Bus No 5, Cézanne stop.

• BASTIDE DU JAS DE BOUFFAN / coaches:

drop-off at entrance to the property on Route de Galice, then

parking at Maurice David stadium.

Bus No 8, Corsy stop.

• CARRIÈRES DE BIBÉMUS / parking for cars and coaches:

Trois Bons Dieux car park / supplement for shuttle

transfer from the Trois Bons Dieux car park

Bus No 6, Les Trois Bons Dieux stop.

Steep route, unsuitable for persons with limited mobility. Walking shoes recommended.

Page 13: In the steps of Cézanne

PR

AC

TIC

AL

INFO

PERIOD OPENING AND TOUR TIMES

CLOSED

ATELIER DE CÉZANNEBooking recommended

1 April > 30 June

1 > 30 September

10am > 12am

and 14pm > 18pm

Tour in English at 17pm

1, 2 and 3 January

1 May,

25 December

Sundays in

January, Februa-

ry,

December

1 October

> 31 March

10am > 12am

and 14pm > 17pm

Tour in English at 16pm

1 July > 31 August 10am > 18pm

Tour in English at 17pm

BASTIDE DU JAS DE BOUFFANBooking recommended

All tours are guided

1 April > 31 May

1 > 31 October

Tuesday, Thursday,

Saturday

Tours start at 10.30am,

12am, 14pm (in English),

15.30pm

1 January

1 May

25 December

1 June

> 30 September

Every day

Tours start at 10.30am,

12am, 14pm (in English),

15.30pm

1 November

> 31 March

Wednesday and Satur-

day

Tours start at 10am

CARRIÈRESDE BIBÉMUSBooking

recommended*

All tours are guided

1 April > 31 May

1 > 31 October

Monday, Wednesday,

Friday, Sunday

Tours start at 10.30am

and 15.30pm

1 January

1 May

25 December

1 June

> 30 September

Every day

Tours start at 09.45am

1 November

> 31 March

Wednesday and Satur-

day

Tours start at 15pm

* IMPORTANT: the site may be closed by the prefecture depending on weather conditions.

All year, please check the night before at www.paca.pref.gouv.fr/files/massif

«Concors Sainte-Victoire» area, and from June to September by phone on + (33) 0 811 20 13 13

OPENING TIMES INDIVIDUALS ONLY

GUIDEDTOURS ANDEXCURSIONSStarting from Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office

Information + 33 (0)4 42 16 11 61

1 APRIL - 31 OCTOBER

• Thursday 10am | In the steps of Cézanne

2 hours guided tour of the city centre.

€8 one price When the Cézanne room in the Musée Granet is closed:

€8 | concessions €4

2 JANUARY - 14 MARCH

• Monday 10am | Cézanne and wine road *

15 MARCH - 30 NOVEMBER

• Monday, Wednesday, Thursday & Saturday 10am | Cézanne and wine road *

Price €54 | Concessions €27

*Tour arranged by Provence Connection: free time in the

garden of Atelier de Cézanne (free entry to terrace; if you

wish to visit the Studio, allow €5.50 entry fee). Tour of cellar

at Hostellerie des Vins de Rognes (free tasting). Return to

Aix with a stop at Paul Cézanne’s favourite vantage point

looking towards Sainte-Victoire mountain (depending on

weather conditions).

QRCODE

Page 14: In the steps of Cézanne

Pour les activités d’accueil, d’information, de promotion/communication, de production/commercialisation et de la boutiquewww.marque-nf.com

Tourist Office of Aix-en-Provence300 avenue Giuseppe Verdi - BP 160 F - 13605 Aix-en-Provence cedex 1

T + 33 (0)4 42 16 11 61 [email protected]

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photo DR Jean-Claude Carbonne, Aix-en-Provence

Tourist Office

map : agence Saluces, Avignon

Cover: Cézanne in a felt hat, 1894 - 60x49 cm,

Tokyo, Bridgestone Museum of Art