Volume I: May Issue

In the LoupeIn the LoupeThe World Leader in Gems... JTV Leaves No Stone Unturned

Welcome to the 2nd edit ion of In the Loupe, Jewelry Television®’s new publ icat ion on everything gemstones and jewelry. I f you missed our f irst release in Apri l , download the PDF at j tv.com/IntheLoupe/Apri l .

This month, we take a look at popular trends for spring and summer. Don’t you love this t ime of year? Plus, guest author Cara Wil l iams provides an in-depth look at the fascinating garnet family, and we have an update on the Campbell Bridges murder case.

I want your feedback! Send your thoughts and comments to IntheLoupe@jtv.com

Carr ie Fox - Editor

Color Trendsfor Spring/Summer 2010

Campbell BridgesArrest in Murder Case

Brazil ian Adventure Notes from George Williams

Garnets and ColorPart 1 of 2-Part Story

Jewelry Trendsfor Spring/Summer 2010

Jerry’s Trivia

Jerry’s Gemdoku

Color Trends for Spring/Summer 2010Carrie Fox, Editor

I t ’s that t ime of year again – t ime to pack away your t ired winter clothes in exchange for the more playful and fun looks of our warm weather seasons. What’s in store for the upcoming season? According to the annual Spring/Summer Color Trend report by Pantone®, the US guru of color, the colors for 2010 are a mix of vibrant, energetic hues and soothing neutrals. Let’s take a look.

Blues •TurquoiseThis color is one of my al l-t ime favorites. Tropical and tranqui l , i t l ightens one’s mood and just feels good to wear. Plus, i t ’s the perfect spice to l iven up black, white, beige and other neutrals. Pantone® loves this color so much that they have deemed it their 2010 Color of the Year.

Gemstone- turquoise, Paraiba tourmaline, apati te

•Bright BluesThe blues for Spring/Summer 2010 are energetic & bright. Reminiscent of gorgeous blue sea waters, these warm colors are visual ly appeal ing and wil l add l i fe to your looks.

Gemstones- sapphires, tanzanite, lapis lazul i , London blue topaz, kyanite, blue diamond

RedsThe reds in 2010 are more powerful and passionate. In 2009, a fuchsia-t inted red was popular, but this year, the color is bold, bright and intense. Make a statement wearing scarlet and tomato-red accessories.

Gemstones- garnet, rhodol i te garnet, spinel, ruby, rubel l i te, red coral, carnel ian

Pinks & Purples•VioletLast year, the trend was lavender, but the purple for 2010 is a more spritely and playful v iolet. This lovely

In the Loupe

Volume I: May Issue

hue is a fresh and feminine addit ion to the seasonal color palette.

Gemstones- amethyst, v iolet hues of tanzanite, iol i te, elbaite tourmaline, purple jade

•CoralsLighter pinks are st i l l in, but the more contemporary version adds a l i t t le orange to create coral tones. When you feel gir ly and sweet, pastels are perfect. When your mood is energetic and fun, try adding a splash of color with coral hues.

Gemstones- kunzite, morganite, l ight hues of amethyst, rose quartz, coral, twi l ight mystic topaz

YellowsYel low is another feel-good color! For 2010, the shade is energetic and bold with just a hint of green. Have fun and brighten your mood wearing this cheerful addit ion to the color palette.

Gemstones- citr ine, yel low topaz, hel iodor, canary apati te, golden beryl, labradorite, garnet

NeutralsNo seasonal palette could survive without a select ion of neutral tones. These often serve as the foundational pieces of one’s wardrobe. Pantone® has selected warm beige, l ight grey and neutral green as the signature shades for 2010. Also, white and off-white can be used as a canvas for layering in splashes of vibrant color.

Gemstones- pearls, jasper, quartz, shel l , mother of pearl, champagne and mocha diamonds, prasiol i te

...Color Trends cont. Arrest in Campbell Bridges MurderBy Carr ie Fox, Editor

On August 11, 2009, the world of modern gemology lost one of i ts most inf luential leaders. While driv ing to his mines in Tsavo National Park,

Campbell Bridges was ambushed and ki l led. Bridges knew his assai lants, a group of local gem squatters who had been i l legal ly trying to mine his land for three years. Despite witnesses to the attack, i t took six months before pol ice made an arrest. Now, the family and the gem community can only wait for some sense of just ice.

Campbel l Bridges is somewhat of a legend in the gem and jewelry industr ies. In the 1960s, he discovered and began mining tsavorite garnet. In 1967, whi le the senior gem consultant for Tif fany’s, a Maasai tr ibesman showed him some spectacular samples of blue stones - material that would later be named tanzanite. Bridges introduced Tif fany & Co. to both stones, and the rest is history.

In Tucson this year, the International Colored Gemstone Associat ion hosted a tr ibute to Bridges. The l ist of attendees was a true testament to the important role he played in our industry. I had the pleasure of attending with others from JTV®, including CEO Tim Matthews and Merchandising VP Loretta Castoro. I t was obvious how beloved this man had been among his peers.

continues on back page

In the Loupe

Volume I: May Issue

Jerry’s Triv ia Chal lenge1. Which of the fol lowing is not a member of the zoisite species?

a) Anyol i te b) Thul i te c) Tanzanite d) Uvite

2. Chemical ly, pyri te contains these two basic elements:

a) Iron & oxygen b) Iron & sulfur c) I ron & nitrogen d) Nickel & oxygen

3. How many types of diamond are there?

a) 1 b) 2 c) 3 d) 4

Check back next month to see i f you answered correct ly.

Did You Know?Brazi l ’s seasons are opposite to the US: • Winter begins in June

Brazi l is home of: • The world’s largest rainforest

• The world’s best coffee

Brazilian Adventures

George Wil l iams, Senior Buyer & Contr ibuting Author

Colored gemstone mining has taken a major downturn in Brazi l , because the government now holds the small art isanal miners (garimpieros) to the same environmental control standards as the mult ibi l l ion-dol lar heavy weights of their mining industry. The government patrols mining regions by hel icopter and satel l i te, and send federal agents in to close mines or enforce their regulat ions. Al l of Brazi l ’s garimpeiros put together move far less dirt than just one of the mult inat ional mining f irms. These small operators do not have the knowledge or the money to l ive by the newly-enforced laws, and they are being forced out of their l ivel ihood. Some gemstone dealers and universit ies are trying to help the situat ion by forming cooperat ives for the garimpeiros – but without government backing, these efforts are gett ing nowhere. This is bad news for the future of gemstone mining in Brazi l . I t is also the primary reason that Brazi l ian gem dealers are f locking to Afr ica – probably the last frontier for new gemstone discoveries. I t is entirely feasible that the gemstone mining business in Brazi l wi l l be history within 10 years, and the country wi l l become simply a cutt ing, treat ing and trading center for Afr ica’s bounty – that is i f they make import ing and export ing a less painful affair. These environmental regulat ions were put in place some years ago and needed to be enforced. The large mining companies have responded; however, without support and help from their government, the garimpeiros wil l become folklore, much l ike the American gold rush 49ers.

Environmental regulat ions are not the only thing changing the gemstone mining scene in Brazi l . Large scale farming is having just as large of an impact. In Southern Brazi l , where f ire opals are produced, the mines are located on large soy and corn farms. The farmers don’t always get their share of proceeds from

the mines and the miners don’t always clean up their mess, both creating issues. The same thing is happening in Minas Gerais, where hundreds of miles of eucalyptus are being planted for paper and lumber mil ls - much of i t over proven and potential mining areas.

While I did make some good f inds in Brazi l , i t wasn’t the same kind of buying experience I ’ve had there in the past.

With al l this in mind, I am now heading to Afr ica to scout the new mining regions in Mozambique, Madagascar, and Ethiopia. I have a feel ing i t wi l l be much l ike the Brazi l I v is i ted 35 years ago when gemstones were being produced everywhere.

In the Loupe

Volume I: May Issue

Garnets and Color: Part 1By Cara Wil l iams, F.G.A. & Guest Author

Garnets are not just a family. They are more l ike a clan. They have much in common – the same crystal form (cubic) and the same chemical outl ine. I say outl ine, because in many ways, chemistry varies between the dif ferent types of garnets. So while we cal l them a family, their DNA varies enough to cal l them a clan. Gemologists recognize six garnet famil ies within the garnet clan. Five are wel l known: pyrope, almandine, spessart i te, grossular, and andradite. The sixth, uvarovite, is hardly ever seen or heard from. ( I f you didn’t catch the name of your favorite, hold on – we wil l get to i t in the next art icle.) Besides these six gem garnets, mineralogists know about more than 30 others, some just theoret ical. Yes, there is a lot we didn’t know about that January birthstone.

Garnets adhere to a three-part formula. There is a si l icate component, as wel l as two other elements. The rat io of these components does not vary. For more detai l , please look at the chart. The six garnet famil ies tend to hang out in two groups – an aluminum group and a calcium group. They occasional ly mix – or intermarry – but not much. Aluminum, calcium, and si l icate do not cause color; the other elements do – those wild “genes.” The aluminum garnets are cal led pyralspites, a word formed from the individual names pyrope, almandine, and spessart i te. The calcium garnets are ugrandites - uvarovite, grossular, and andradite. Now imagine the garnets as a very old, establ ished clan. While individuals might have a certain last name, they are not just a Jones or a Smith. They are a combination of whatever their ancestors were. So we never havea pure pyrope or a pure almandine.

PyralspitesPure pyrope would be colorless, but we al l know there are no colorless garnets. Pyropes are always red, gett ing their color from some almandine ancestry and sometimes from a bit of uvarovite. (Bits of uvarovite “genes,” or molecules, pop up in many garnets’ DNA.

Almandine is the classic red garnet and possibly the most common type. I t has iron in i ts formula, which creates color - in this case, a strong red. This is why i t does not take much almandine in a garnet to make it red.

Spessart i te is the third pyralspite, and i t has manganese in i ts formula. This manganese creates a yel lowish-orange color. Because many of spessart i te’s ancestors married almandines, many are a reddish orange due to some iron. The l ighter orange spessart i tes, similar in color to orange soft dr inks, are almost pure spessart i tes.

In the Loupe

Volume I: May Issue

UgranditesThe other group of gem garnets, the ugrandites, is not as wel l known or as plenti ful as the pyralspites. Uvarovite, a r ich, emerald green, has chromium in i ts formula, which stunts crystal growth. This garnet is rarely seen as anything other than a drusy ( lots of t iny crystals al l close together); however, i t leaves i ts mark on other garnets more than you might think.

Grossular garnet has aluminum and calcium in i ts formula, neither of which creates color. However, grossulars can range widely in their shades and are often close to pure. They get their color from traces of other garnets mixed in.

Andradite is the last garnet and is dif ferent from the others in several ways. I t has iron, but in a dif ferent state and posit ion within the structure than almandine. Therefore, i t does not create red. Instead, andradites can be golden or brown or even other colors i f mixed.

Garnets cont...

PYRaLSPiTeSPyrope Magnesium Aluminum Si l icate Mg3 Al2 (SiO4)3

Almandine Iron Aluminum Si l icate Fe3 Al2 (SiO4)3

Spessart ine Manganese Aluminum Si l icate Mn3 Al2 (SiO4)3

UGRaNdiTeSUvarovite Calcium Chromium Si l icate Ca3 Cr2 (SiO4)3

Grossular Calcium Aluminum Si l icate Ca3 Al2 (SiO4)3

Andradite Calcium Iron Si l icate Ca3 Fe2 (SiO4)3*Red text denotes the color changing chemical

Editor’s Notes: This report was Part 1 of a series on the unique and fascinating garnet family. Our guest author, Cara Wil l iams, is a highly respected gemologist with a long history in the f ield. Cara, who works for Stone Group Laboratories, has earned the advanced gemological degree, F.G.A. (Fel low of the Gemmological Associat ion in Great Britain). Join us next month for Part 2.

Jewelry Trends for Spring & Summer 2010 By Carr ie Fox, Editor

Jewelry trends for 2010 are fresh and fun! Get outside your comfort zone and try something new this year. ‘Statement piece ’ is the catch phrase so think big looks and unique styles. Let’s take a look at f ive great trends for this season.

1.Big & ChunkyLarge r ings, wide bracelets and big pendants or enhancers are very hot this year! Pieces with chunky stones and beads wil l also achieve a big and bold look.

2. Unique & Unusualtrade your geometric shapes for free-form styles, which are extremely popular for 2010. Also, pendants designed with drusy and sl iced crystal pendants add a playful touch.

3. OpaquesThese are a must-have look for this season. Jewelry designed with minerals, fossi ls and opaque gems is fabulous! Look for turquoise, lapis, ammonite, coral and other great materials.

4. Layering & StackingStacking two or more cuff bracelets is an easy way to update your style. In necklaces, experiment by layering dif ferent lengths, colors or materials.

5. FloralFloral designs are making a comeback in 2010. Perfect ly f i t t ing for the season, wearing f loral earr ings, pendants or necklaces wil l add a f l i r ty touch to your wardrobe.

Visit j tv.com/springstyle to shop JTV®’s take on these fantast ic spring and summer colors.

In the Loupe

Volume I: May Issue

Answers to Apri l ’sTriv ia and Crossword1. Which does not belong to the Quartz family? b) Moonstone -part of the Feldspar family

2. Which gemstone is not doubly refract ive? a) Flourite - singly refract ive

3. Which gemstone has the highest RI? c) Ruti le - 2.62 ~ 2.90

Sign Up for In the Loupe EmailsJust fol low these simple steps, and each month, you’l l receive our email version of In the Loupe.

1. Go to j tv.com and f ind our Sign Up box located in the top r ight corner.2. Enter your email address and cl ick ‘Go.’ 3. You wil l automatical ly be taken to JTV’s Email Subscript ion Center.4. Cl ick the box next to In the Loupe. Make sure a check mark appears. (You can also modify your other email subscript ions.)5. Cl ick ‘Submit’ at the bottom of the page. You’re done!I f you have questions, email the editor at InTheLoupe@jtv.com or cal l customer service at (800) 550-8393.

Editorial

Editor-in-Chief: Carrie Fox

Contr ibutor:George Wil l iams

Guest Author: Cara Wil l iams

Creative

Lead Design: Russ Hamilton

Online Design: José Salas

Photography: Ruuss HamiltonJason YorkJTV Archives

Stay Tuned this Month: May is Gold Month, May 1-31

Royal Tierra Sweepstakes, thru May 23

JTV Vendor Fair, May 20-26

A very genuine sense of sorrow and loss f i l led that room.

Bruce Bridges, Campbell ’s son and also a vict im of the attack, gave a heartfelt tr ibute to his father. He lovingly spoke about his dad and the adventures their family shared while l iv ing in Afr ica. Bruce also gave a recount of the attack, crying as he described how Campbell fought unti l the very end, trying to protect his only son and the mines he had owned for over 30 years.

The second chapter of this tragic tale has now begun. On February 9, 2010, Kenyan authorit ies arrested the al leged r ingleader, Daniel M. Mnene. Very few detai ls have been released since then, and i t is st i l l unclear i f any of the other assai lants wi l l be prosecuted. Stay tuned for future updates from In the Loupe .

Jerry’s Gemdoku

T D A ZS A Z TZ R S A E

E S DD O E A

Z A PA Z E RE R D P

O S A

Gemdoku is a chal lenging twist on the popular game, Sudoku. Here are a few hints to solving the puzzle:

• The puzzle is composed of 9 columns, 9 rows & 9 3x3 cubes.

• Standard Sudoku is played using the numbers1-9. You wil l play Gemdoku using the f irst letters from our l ist of gemstones.

• To play, f i l l the remaining empty spaces using the 9 gemstones’ f irst letters. However, each letter can only be used once within a column, a row or a cube. For example, look at the top row, you could not use T because a T is already present in that row.

1 – Aqua

2 – D iamond

3 – Emerald

4 – Opal

5 – Pyrope

6 – Ruby

7 – Sapphire

8 – Tanzanite

9 – Z i rcon

Campbell Bridges cont...

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