ICCE 2004 LISBON CONTENTS

Volume 1 (p1) Volume 2, Long Waves, Nearshore Currents, and Swash (p1119) Volume 3, Coastal Management, Dredging, and Beach Nourishment (p2941) Volume 4, Coastal Structures (p3467)

VOLUME ONE

Keynote ................................................................................................... 1

Forty Years of Coastal Engineering in Portugal I. B. Mota Oliveira............................................................................................3

Waves .....................................................................................................41

Waves in Numerical and Physical Wave Flumes - A Deterministic Combination

Haiwen Zhang and Hemming Schäffer................................................................. 43

Computation of Nonlinear Water Waves with a High-Order Boussinesq Model

David R. Fuhrman, Per A. Madsen and Harry B. Bingham ................................... 56

The Evolution of Large Waves in Shallow Water Vasiliki Katsardi and Chris Svvan ...................................................................... 69

A Multi-Layer Approach to Boussinesq-Type Modeling P. Lynett, P. L.-F. Liu and H.-H. Hwung............................................................. 82

A Numerical Solution of the Boussinesq Equations Based on a Godunov-Type FVM

Suzana Ilic, Kutsi Erduran and Vedrana Kutija .................................................... 94

2D Higher Order Boussinesq Equations for Waves in Flows with Vorticity Z. L. Zou, J. T. Kirby and F. Y. Shi .................................................................106

A Discrete Spectral Evolution Model for Nonlinear Waves over 2D Topography

T. T. Janssen, T. H. C. Herbers and J. A. Battjes................................................119

Another Step Towards a Post-Boussinesq Wave Model Hemming Schäffer .........................................................................................132

Experiments on the Front of Continuous Wavetrains in a Large Wave Tank Wen-Son Chiang, Hwung-Hweng Hwung and Yu-Hsuan Chang..........................145

Side-band Evolution of Initially Uniform Deep Water Wave H. H. Hwung, W. S. Chiang, P. L.-F. Liu and P. Lynett ......................................157

XII

Nonlinearity in Irregulär Waves from Linear LAGRANGEian Superposition Stefan Woltering and Karl-Friedrich Daemrich.................................................. 169

Modelling Surface Water Waves - An Application of High-Level GLN Theory

C. T. Chan and C. Svvan.................................................................................. 182

Numerical Simulation of the Second Order Nonlinear Effects on Wave Spectra and Statistical Properties of Coastal Waves

Hajime Kato, Hisarnichi Nobuoka and Yasumitsu Komatsuzaki.......................... 195

Shallow-Water Spectral Shapes Jane McKee Smith ........................................................................................ 206

Wave Deformation in Vegetation Fringed Channels Toshiyuki Asano, Ryoko Matsumoto and Seiji Kikuchi .......................................218

Interaction and Deformation of Solitary Waves around Channel Junction Masatoshi Yuhi, Hajime Mase and Hajime Ishida...............................................230

Wave Field Modifications by Elliptic Bathymetric with Gradual Transitions in Depth

Christopher J. Bender and Robert G. Dean ....................................................... 243

Numerical Modeling of Ship-Induced Currents in Confmed Waterways Okey G. Nwogu and Zeki Demirbilek ..............................................................256

Analytical Model for Wave Transformation at Artificial Reefs Matthias Bleck and Hocine Oumeraci ...............................................................269

Transformation of Irregulär Waves and Wave Groups due to Breaking and Nonlinear Processes

Iana Saprykina and Sergey Kuznetsov...............................................................282

Spectral Evolution of Breaking - Non Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone Panayotis Prinos, Evangelos Koutandos and Theophanis Karambas .....................295

Velocity Measurements Under Broken Waves and Bores Sandra Longo and Marco Petti ........................................................................305

Roller Modelling in the Context of Undertow Prediction R. Cienfuegos, E. Barthelemy and P. Bonneton ..................................................318

Refined Surface Tension Model for Lagrangian Simulation of Wave Breaking

Hiroyuki Ikari, Hitoshi Gotoh, Mami Hashimoto and Tetsuo Sakai .....................331

Three-Dimensional Large Eddy Simulation of Vortices Induced by Plunging Breaking Waves

Pierre Lubin, Stephane Vincent, Jean-Paul Caltagirone and Stephane Abadie .....344

Experimental Verification of the Relative Trough Froude Number (RTFN) Method for Wave Breaking in Boussinesq Models

Takashi Okamoto and David R. Basco .............................................................357

Extra Strain Rates in Spilling Breaking Waves S. K. Misra, J. T. Kirby, M. Brocchini, M. Thomas, F. Veron and C. Kambhamettu ............................................................................................370

Estimates of Surf Zone Turbulence in a Large-Scale Laboratory Flume Christopher P. Scott, Daniel T. Cox, Sungwon Shin and Neil Clayton..................379

Wave Celerity in the Inner Surf Zone P. Bonneton...................................................................................................392

Boussinesq Modelling of Breaking Waves: Description of Turbulence R. Briganti, G. Bellotti, R. Musumeci, E. Foti and M. Brocchini ........................ 402

SPH Modeling of Breaking Waves Benedict D. Rogers and Robert A. Dalrymple .................................................. 415

Laboratory Observation of Breaking Criteria of Wind-Generated Deepwater Waves

Sang-Ho Oh, Natsuki Mizutani, Noriaki Hashimoto and Kyung-Duck Suh ......... 428

Time-Variant Mass Transport Beneath Breaking Waves Jens Harms and Torsten Schlurmann ................................................................ 441

Surf Zone Wave Modeling: Improvement of Dissipation by Depth-Induced Breaking in SWAN and Application in Malacca Straits

Sin Hwei Lydia Lim and Eng Soon Chan.......................................................... 454

Dissipation of Nonlinear Shallow Water Waves K. L. Edwards, J. M. Kaihatu, J. Veeramony..................................................... 467

Mesoscale Wave Energy Dissipation Over Heterogeneous Sediments Paul A. Work, Hüseyin Demir, James M. Kaihatu and George Voulgaris.............. 477

Wave-Induced Sediment Resuspension on a Muddy Inner Shelf During Hurricane Claudette

A. Sheremet, G. W. Stone and X. Zhang .......................................................... 490

XIV

Dissipation of Wave Energy by Cohesive Sediments J. M. Kaihatu and A. Sheremet ....................................................................... 498

Wave and Current Interactions with Vegetation Takao Ota, Nobuhisa Kobayashi and James T. Kirby.......................................... 508

Experimental and Numerical Study of Irregulär Wave Boundary Layers on a Rough Bottom

Ahmad Sana, Hitoshi Tanaka and Takeshi Suzuki ............................................ 521

Application of a Mild-Slope Equation FEM Model with Internal Generation of Waves: The Venice Lido Inlet Case

Gian-Mario Beltrami...................................................................................... 529

The Role of Wind Waves on the Formation and Development of Langmuir Circulations in a Shallow Water Region

Nobuhiro Matsunaga and Ken-ichi Uzaki.......................................................... 542

Diffusion of Turbulent Jet under Waves Kuang-An Chang, Yonguk Ryu and Nobuhito Mori ......: .................................. 555

Breaking Wave Loads on a Slender Pile in Shallow Water Kai Irschik, Uwe Sparboom and Hocine Oumeraci ............................................ 568

Modeling of Wave Interaction with Complex Coastal Structures Using an Enhanced VOF Model

Fengyan Shi, Qun Zhao, James T. Kirby, Dal Soo Lee and SeungNam Seo ....... 581

Estimating Incident and Reflected Waves Using a Fully Nonlinear Wave Model

Miguel Figueres and Josep R. Medina.............................................................. 594

Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Interaction with Porous Submerged Breakwaters

Ioannis Avgeris, Theophanis V. Karambas and Panayotis Prinos.......................... 604

Reflection of an Obliquely Incident Bore from an Inclined Wall Hideo Matsutomi and Kentaro Imai ................................................................. 617

Effects of Cross Angle Between Wave and Current on Three-Dimensional Flow Fields Around a Cylinder

Shinya Umeda, Toshiharu Magai, Masatoshi Yuhi and Hajime Ishida.................. 629

Estimation of Mach-Stem Breaker Height Along Structures Tetsu Memita and Tetsuo Sakai ...................................................................... 642

The Influence of Swell on the Sea Surface Roughness and the Growth of Wind Waves

Qin Chen, Paul A. Hwang and James M. Kaihatu ...................................................654

Growth Response of Waves to the Wind Stress William L. Peirson and Stephen E. Belcher ............................................................667

Laboratory Real Storni Reproduction Using Wind Jose A. Gonzälez-Escrivä, Joaquin M. Garrido, Josep R. Medina and Jimmy Geeraerts .....................................................................................................677

Development and Verification of the Coupled Atmosphere-Ocean Model for Ise Bay, Japan

Teruo Ohsawa, Hideaki Mizutani, Tomokazu Murakami, Tomonao Kobayashi, Takashi Yasuda and Tateki Fujiwara .......................................................................690

Long-term and Extreme Wave Climate of the Black Sea Erdal Ozhan, Saleh Abdalla andNihal Yilmaz ....................................................... 701

A Nearshore Wave Atlas Along the Coasts of France Based on the Numerical Modeling of Wave Climate over 25 Years

Michel Benoit and Florence Lafon .......................................................................... 714

Extreme Events and Wave Forecast in the Iberian Nearshore Eugen Rusu, Carlos Ventura Soares, Jose Paulo Pinto and Raquel Silva ............... 727

A Hind-Cast Data Base for the Design of Offshore Wind Energy Structures in the German Bight

Kim Mittendorf, Martin Kohlmeier and Werner Zielke ........................................... 740

Extreme Hydrodynamic Boundary Conditions in Ostend (Belgium) Koen Trouw, Joris Blanckaert, Toon Verwaest, David Hurdle, Wim Van Alboom, Jaak Monbaliu, Julien De Rouck, Peter De Wolf, Marc Willems, Marc Sas, Daniel Decroo, and Gijs Van Banning ......................... 753

A Wave Forecasting System for the Real Time Management of the Gijon Harbour

Jose Moyano Retamero, Elena Sänchez-Badorrey and Marta Gömez Lahoz ........ 766

Multi-Decadal Wind Wave Modelling Over the Baltic Sea Witold Cieslikiewicz, Barbara Paplinska-Swerpel and Carlos Guedes Soares ...... 778

Forecasting Wave Conditions in Beaches. From Nested Simulations to Field Observations

Daniel Gonzälez-Marco, Agustin Sänchez-Arcilla, Rodolfo Bolanos, Joaquim Sospedra, Joan Pau Sierra and Javier Uzcanga.......................................... 791

XVI

Effects of Boundary Condition Evaluation on Design Wave Modeling Hanz D. Niemeyer, Ralf Kaiser and Agnieszka Herman .................................... 804

Limits of Operational Wave Prediction in the North-Western Mediterranean Rodolfo Bolafios, Agustin Sänchez-Arcilla, Jesus Gömez and Jordi Cateura ........ 818

Modelling of Hydrodynamics Around a Scheme of Detached Leaky Breakwaters

Premanandan, T. Fernando and Shunqi Pan....................................................... 830

Linear Wave Propagation on an Adaptive Quad-Tree Cut-Cell Grid Rodolfo Silva, Alistair G. L. Borthwick and Edgar G. Mendoza........................... 842

Improvement of the Numerics and Deep-Water Physics in an Academic Version of SWAN

Andre J. van der Westhuysen, Marcel Zijlema and Jurjen A. Battjes .................. 855

Near-Shore Wave Modeling with Two Coupled Models: SWAN and Triton J. Groeneweg, N. Doorn, M. J. A. Borsboom and A. R. van Dongeren.................. 868

Energy Balance Equation Model with Diffraction Effect for Random Waves Kazuya Oki, Hajime Mase and Terry S. Hedges.................................................881

A Third-Generation Spectral Wave Model Using an Unstructured Finite Volume Technique

Ole R. Sorensen, Henrik Kofoed-Hansen, Morten Rugbjerg and Lars S. Sorensen.............................................................................................894

Reliability of SWAN at the Petten Sea Defence Gerbrant Van Vledder, Jacco Groeneweg and Sjaak Jacobse ..............................907

On the Accuracy of Wave Models in the Coastal Zone Sonia Ponce de Leon, Paula Pilar and Carlos Guedes-Soares................................920

Wave Modelling in Intertidal Estuaries: Comparison with Measured Data Nigel P. Tozer, Stephen M. Grey and Toni J. Ellam............................................933

Modeling of Typhoon Wind-Waves Around the Yangtze Estuary, China Kelin Hu, Pingxing Ding and Qin Chen ...........................................................946

Estimating the Parent Distribution of Storm Type-Separated Annual Maximum Wave Heights on the Northwestern Pacific Ocean

Masataka Yamaguchi, Hirokazu Nonaka and Yoshio Hatada...............................959

XV11

Wave Data Analysis by Hubert Huang Transform and Conventional Discretization Methods

Albena D. Veltcheva and Carlos Gliedes Soares .................................................972

Interpolation of Time Series of Sea State Variables Using Neural Networks Josep R. Medina and Obdulio Serrano-Hidalgo .................................................985

Temporal and Spatial Statistical Variability of the Wave Height in the Surf Zone

M. C. Castillo, A. Baquerizo and M. A. Losada ..................................................997

Short Range Wave Forecasts Using Ensemble Wave Prediction System Nobuhito Mori and Hiromaru Hirakuchi ........................................................1009

Depth-Limited Distribution of the Highest Wave in a Sea State Fernando J. Mendez, Inigo J. Losada and Raul Medina .....................................1022

Joint Probability Distributions for Wave Height, Wind Setup and Wind Speed

P. H. A. J. M. van Gelder, J.K. Vrijling and D. H. van Haaren ........................... 1032

Phase Inversion and the Identification of Harmonie Structure in Coastal Engineering Experiments

Alison C. Hunt, Paul H. Taylor, Alistair G. L. Borthwick, Peter K. Stansby andTongFeng............................................................................................. 1047

Development of Simultaneous Plane Measurement Techniques of Air and Water Flows Close to Wind Wave Interfaces

K. Takehara, N. Ohtsuka, T. G. Etoh, Y. Takano, G. Tsujimoto and N. Mizutani ................................................................................................. 1060

Optical Remote Sensing Estimates of the Incident Wave Angle Field During NCEX

Rob Holman and Chris Chickadel .................................................................. 1072

Imaging Measurement of Whitecaps at Sea Observation Tower Yuji Sugihara, Hiromichi Tsumori, Hiroshi Yoshioka, Shigeatsu Serizawa and AkiraMasuda ........................................................................................ 1082

GPS Buoy Application to Offshore Wave, Tsunami and Tide Observation Toshihiko Nagai, Hideaki Ogawa, Yukihiro Terada, Teruyuki Kato and Masanobu Kudaka ....................................................................................... 1093

Observation of Ocean Waves by Long-Range Ocean Radar Shoichiro Kojima, Kenji Satoh and Takeshi Matsuoka .................................... 1106

VOLUME TWO⇑

Long Waves, Nearshore Currents, and Swash ............................. 1119 ⇑

Lagrangian Multiphase Flow Model for Debris-Flow-Induced Tsunami Hitoshi Gotoh, Minoru Hayashi and Tetsuo Sakai................................................ 1121

Earthquake Induced Wave Motions in Closed Water Bodies Muthukumar Narayanaswamy and Robert Dalrymple.......................................... 1134

SPH Modelling of Underwater Landslide Generated Waves A. Panizzo and R. A. Dalrymple ............................................................................1147

Mechanism of Seawater Exchange in Semi-Enclosed Bay with Sill and Its Modeling

Itabashi Naoki, Tadashi Hibino and Hiroichi Tsuruya............................................1160

Promoting Ebb Dominance in Coastal Lagoons A. B. Fortunato and A. Oliveira.............................................................................1173

High Resolution Modelling of Texel Inlet E. P. L. Elias, J. Cleveringa and M. J. F. Stive .....................................................1186

Comparison of Numerical Tidal Models forPractical Applications Andreas Dieter Plüß and Holger Schüttrumpf ......................................................1199

Energy Transfer and Dissipation During Surf Beat Conditions T. E. Baidock and T. J. O'Hare ..............................................................................1212

Shoaling and Shoreline Dissipation of Subharmonic Gravity Waves Ap Van Dongeren, Job Van Noorloos, Kate Steenhauer, Jurjen Battjes, Tim Janssen and Ad Reniers ..................................................................................1225

Analysis and Prediction of Seiches in Rotterdam Harbour Basins Martijn P. C. de Jong and Jurjen A. Battjes ...........................................................1238

Characteristics of Infragraviry Waves around Japan in Relation to Wind Waves

M. Shiga, K. Nakai, T. Sakai, K. Nadaoka and C. Yamamoto ............................... 1251

Field Observations and Numerical Simulations of Harbor Oscillations due to Long Period Waves

Ken-ichi Uzaki, Nobuhiro Matsunaga, Yasuhiro Nishii and Kazuhito Takase .... 1264

XIX

Boussinesq Modelling ofWavegroup Propagation over a Shallow Shoal and the Release of Second Order and Higher Harmonics

Benjamin P. Weston, Paul H. Taylor, Alistair Borthwick, Alison C. Hunt and Peter K. Stansby......................................................................................1277

Observation and Computation of Resonant Long Period Oscillation Excited by Strang Wind

Hiroshi Yoshioka, Tomotsuka Takayama and Shigeatsu Serizawa ....................1290

Long Period Waves and Wave Envelope in Shallow Water During a Storni Takehito Horie, Katsumi Seki and Masaru Mizuguchi .....................................1299

Experimental Analysis of Long Waves at Harbour Entrances Javier L. Lara, Francisco L. Martin, Inigo J. Losada and Gabriel Diaz ..............1308

Harbour Short Wave Agitation and Resonance Based on Modified Boussinesq Equations

Inigo J. Losada, Philip L.-F Liu, Mauricio Gonzalez, Gabriel Diaz, Jose M. Gonzalez and Seung B. Woo .............................................................1321

Comparing the Effects of Different Three-Dimensional Forcing on Nearshore Currents

Kristen D. Splinter and Donald N. Slinn .........................................................1334

Photogrammetric Survey of the Surf Zone for Calibration and Validation of Numerical Models

Stefan Schimmels, Werner Zielke, Folke Santel and Christian Heipke ............... 1343

Long-term Monitoring and Analysis of Optically Measured Longshore Currents

Chris Chickadel and Rob Holman .................................................................. 1356

Field Verification of a Numerical Q-3D Nearshore Current Model Kuchiishi Takayuki, Kenichi Kato, Masamitsu Kuroiwa, Yuhei Matsubara and HideakiNoda ......................................................................................... 1367

Nearshore Macrovortices Generated at a Submerged Breakwater: Experimental Investigation and Statistical Modelling

L. Soldini, C. Lorenzoni, A. Piattella, A. Mancinelli and M. Brocchini............... 1380

A Laboratory Investigation of Nearshore Turbulence Mark S. Osler, Ib A. Svendsen and James T. Kirby........................................... 1393

Resistance to Longshore Current Over a Rippled Bed Bradley D. Johnson...................................................................................... 1404

Modeling of the Wave and Circulation Field at the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX)

Joseph W. Long and H. Tuba Özkan-Haller ...........................................................1417

Three-Dimensional Nearshore Currents Model Using Sigma Coordinate System

Hisamichi Nobuoka, Nobuo Mimura and J. A. Roelvink .....................................1429

Experimental Investigation on Waves and Currents Crossing at a Right Angle

L. Cavallaro, R. E. Musumeci, E. Foti and P. Blondeaux.......................................1442

Evaluation of the Longshore Current for a Sector of the Portuguese West Coast: Application of Different Methodologies

Raquel Silva, A. Jorge da Silva, Eugen Rusu, Filipa S. B. F.Oliveira, Sergio H. C. D. Larangeiro and Rui Taborda .........................................................1455

Video-Derived Observations of Alongshore Currents Anna B. Cohen, Stefan G. J. Aarninkhof and C. Chris Chickadel ........................1468

Laboratory Measurements of Time-Varying Rip Currents Kevin A. Haas, Brian K. Sapp and Andrew B. Kennedy ......................................1480

Pulsing and Circulation in Rip Current System D. P. Callaghan, T. E. Baidock, P. Nielsen, D. M. Hanes, K. Haas and J.H. MacMahan ..................................................................................................... 1493

On The Configuration of Rip Channel Accelerating Development of Rip Current

Makoto Shibasaki, Takaaki Uda, Masumi Serizawa, Takayuki Kumada and Akio Kobayashi .............................................................................................. 1506

Rip Current Measured at Uradome Beach, Tottori, Japan Ichiro Deguchi and Susumu Araki ........................................................................1519

Effect of Wave Forcing on Storm Surge R. J. Weaver and Donald N. Slinn ........................................................................ 1532

Multi-Level Storm Surge Model Incorporating Density Stratification and Wave Setup

Hidenori Shibaki, Keiji Nakai, Katsuyuki Suzuyama and Akira Watanabe ........... 1539

Development of Storm Surge and Tsunami Simulator in Oceans and Coastal Areas

Taro Kakinuma and Takashi Tomita...................................................................... 1552

XXI

Regional-Scale Storm-Surge Modeling of Long Island, New York, USA Jennifer L. Irish, Brian P. Williams, Adele Militello and David J. Mark...............1565

Wind-Wave-Surge Parallel Computation Model and Its Application to Storm Surge Simulation in Shallow Sea

Kyeongok Kim and Takao Yamashita ............................................................1578

Copula Approach for Flood probability Analysis of the Huangpu River during Barrier Closure

J.Y. Nai, P. H. A. J. M. van Gelder, P. J. M. Kerssens, Z.B. Wang and E. van Beek .................................................................................................1591

Swash from Long Waves J. W. Kamphuis............................................................................................1604

Swash boundary and cross-shore Variation of horizontal velocity on a slope Ashwini Kumar Otta and Adrian Pedrosa Acuna ..............................................1616

Numerical Investigation of Swash Zone Shear Stresses Jack A. Puleo and Donald N. Slinn..................................................................1629

Numerical Simulation of Storm-Induced Current System in Coastal Region Shigeru Kato and Takao Yamashita................................................................1638

Effect of the Kuroshio Meandering on Sea Levels along the Pacific Coast

Katsuaki Komai, Shiro Kawashima and Tadashi Hibino....................................1650

Sediment Transport and Morphology..........................................1663

Sediment Transport of Non-Uniform Sands in Oscillatory Sheet-Flows Wael Hassan and Jan Ribberink .....................................................................1665

Numerical Modelling of Littoral Sand Transport Catherine Villaret and Alan G. Davies ............................................................1678

Numerical and Experimental Study of Wave-Generated Sheet Flow Tom O'Donoghue, Ming Li, Jonathan Malarkey, Shunqi Pan, Alan G. Davies, and Brian A. O'Connor ................................................................................1690

A Sheet-Flow Transport Rate Formula for Asymmetrie, Forward-Leaning Waves and Currents

Akira Watanabe and Shinji Sato ....................................................................1703

An Evaluation Method of Suspended Sediment Concentration In and Outside the Surf Zone

Mantripathi Prabath Ravindra Jayaratne and Tomoya Shibayama.......................1715

Numerical Simulation of Sediment Suspension Above Rippled Bed Under Broken Waves

Ming Li, Shunqi Pan and Brian A. O'Connor ..................................................1728

Wave-Induced Sediment Transport Processes in the Ripple Regime Jebbe J. van der Werf and Jan S. Ribberink .....................................................1741

Suspended Sand Concentrations in Surf Zones Yukiko Tega, Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Michael A. Giovannozzi and Bradley D. Johnson...................................................................................... 1754

Sediment Suspension Under Sheet Flow Conditions: Regulär and Random Waves Plus Current

Lars Erik Holmedal and Dag Myrhaug ........................................................... 1767

Modelling Suspended Sediment Profiles Under Waves: A Finite-Mixing-Length Theory

Ian A. L. Teakle and Peter Nielsen ................................................................ 1780

Numerical Simulation of 3-D Intermittent Sediment Suspension in the Surf Zone

Takayuki Suzuki and Akio Okayasu............................................................... 1793

Large Scale Bedforms and Sediment Transport in Front of Cliffs Elena Sänchez-Badorrey and Miguel A. Losada............................................... 1805

Analysis of Cohesive Sediment Transport in Decelerating and Accelerating Flow

Luis Ivens Portela and Miguel Maldonado Reis .............................................. 1818

Flume Measurements of Regulär Wave Group-Induced Pore Pressures in a Fluidized Sandy Bed

Shiaw-Yih Tzang and Shan-Huei Ou.............................................................. 1830

The Influence of Offshore Storm Waves on Groundwater Dynamics and Salinity in a Sandy Beach

Nick Cartwright, Peter Nielsen and Ling Li..................................................... 1841

Wave Attenuation and Mud Mass Transport Under Irregulär Waves Mohsen Soltanpour, Tomoya Shibayama, Yugo Masuya and Iman Sabzevari ... 1851

Risk Analysis of Unsaturated, Non-Cohesive Subsoil due to Turbulent Flow Fluctuations

M. Davis, M. A. Koenders and H. J. Köhler.................................................... 1861

Modeling Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Processes with a Time Domain Boussinesq Model

Wen Long, Tian-Jian Hsu and James T. Kirby ................................................1874

Acoustic Characterisation of Shingle Movement in the Surf Zone Travis Mason, Duncan Priestley, Belen Blanco, Andrew Bradbury, Dominic Reeve, Maurice McCabe, Tom Coates and Nick Smith ....................... 1887

The Offshore Breakwater Scheine at Sea Palling, England: Sand Transport Generated by Tidal Currents

J. C. Bacon, C. E. Vincent, T. Dolphin, J. Taylor, Shunqi-Pan and B. O'Connor................................................................................................ 1896

A New Look at the Applicability of Classical Models for Ripple Prediction M. R. Delgado Blanco, P. Bell and J. Monbaliu .............................................. 1909

Modelling of Sediment Transport in a Tide-Dominated Coast. Case Study: Central Dithmarschen Bight, German Wadden Sea

Poerbandono and R. Mayerle......................................................................... 1922

Modelling Sediment Transport Processes in the NW Portuguese Shelf Sergio H. C. D. Larangeiro, Anabela Oliveira, Joäo Vitorino and Rui Taborda.... 1935

Sediment Suspension Modeling by Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics Shan Zou and Robert A. Dalrymple ............................................................... 1948

Prediction of Sediment Transport in the Swash Zone by Using a Nonlinear Wave Model

Th. V. Karambas ......................................................................................... 1959

Evaluation of a Novel Multi-Functional Artificial Reef for Dubai Gary Mocke, Francois Smit and Khalid AI Zahed ............................................1971

Processes Governing Shoreline Response to Submerged Breakwaters: Multi-Function Structures - a Special Case

Roshanka Ranasinghe and Ian L. Turner ........................................................1984

Downdrift Transfer of Background Erosional Pressure by a Littoral Barrier Robert G. Dean ............................................................................................1997

A Simple New Shoreline Evolution Model Jon K. Miller and Robert G. Dean ..................................................................2009

Geomorphic Approach for Mitigating Beach Erosion Downdrift of Littoral Barrier

John R-C. Hsu, Antonio H. F. Klein and Lindino Benedet..................................2022

Extending a 1-Line Modeling Approach to Explore Emergent Coastline Behaviors

A. Brad Murray and Andrew Ashton...............................................................2035

Development of Practical One-Line Model Applicable to Coasts with Scarce Wave and Topographie Data

Masahiro Miura, Takaaki Uda, Masumi Serizawa, Takayuki Kumada and Akio Kobayashi .......................................................................................... 2048

Predictive Model of Formation of a Sand Spit Shusuke Watanabe, Masumi Serizawa andTakaaki Uda .................................... 2061

Rapid Formation of a Barrier Island and Beach Erosion Caused by Large-Scale Excavation of Reef Fiat on Carbonate Beach

Yutaka Osuga, Takaaki Uda, Susumu Onaka, Shubun Endo, Masumi Serizawa and Toshiro San-Nami ................................................................................. 2074

Uncertainty Assessment of Long Term Shoreline Prediction A. Payo, A. Baquerizo and M. A. Losada ....................................................... 2087

Matane (Quebec) Dyke Modification and Subsequent Beach Erosion YannRopars .............................................................................................. 2097

Calibration of a Process Model for Barrier Island Breaching David R.Basco ........................................................................................... 2108

Numerical Morphological Model of Barrier Island Breaching Nicholas C. Kraus and Kentaro Hayashi......................................................... 2120

Modeling Dune Response by Overwash Transport Magnus Larson, Randall A. Wise and Nicholas C. Kraus.................................. 2133

Modeling of Storm Induced Barrier Island Overwash and Breaching in the Atlantic Coast of Long Island, New York

Rafael Canizares, Santiago Alfageme and Mark B. Gravens.............................. 2146

Stochastic Processes in Beach Response Predictions S. M. van Leeuwen, N. Dodd, D. Calvete and A. Falques .................................2159

A Conceptual Model for the Retreat and Volume Loss of the Louisiana Barrier Islands with Implications for the Design of Beach Nourishment

Thomas Campbell and Lindino Benedet...........................................................2170

Practical Insights and Applicability of Empirical Bay Shape Equations Lindino Benedet, Antonio H. F. Klein and John R-C. Hsu..................................2181

Medium-Term Q-3D Coastal Area Model with Shoreline Change around Coastal Structures

Masamitsu Kuroiwa, J.William Kamphuis, Takayuki Kuchiishi, Yuhei Matsubara and Hideaki Noda................................................................2194

Numerical Simulation of Beach Changes Using an N-Line model Van To Dang and Ronald J. Cox ...................................................................2207

Numerical Modeling of Dynamic Equilibrium Bay Shape Sutat Weesakul, Tanuspong Pokavanich and Thet Yee Win .............................2220

Application of a Predictive Channel Shoaling and Migration Model, M3D, to St Marys Entrance, Florida

Christopher W. Reed, Himanghsu Das and Alan W. Niedoroda ......................... 2232

VOLUME THREE ⇑

Seasonal Mudflat Profile Evolution Fumihiko Yamada, Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Makoto Nakamichi and Tetsuya Kakinoki ........................................................................................ 2243

Modeling of Medium Scale Morphodynamics of a Tidal Fiat Area in the German Wadden Sea

Jort Wilkens and Roberto Mayerle ................................................................ 2256

Prediction Model of Storm-Induced Erosion and Deposition in the Yangtze Estuary

Pingxing Ding, Kelin Hu and Yazhen Kong .................................................... 2269

Morphodynamics of the Tagus Estuary Entrance. Simulation of Alternative Solutions for Bar Maintenance

Mario Teles and Andreia Barata ................................................................... 2280

Hydromorphological Model of the Surrounding Water of Macao Andreia Barata, Mario Teles and J. Seabra de Melo ......................................... 2290

A Method Based on Electrical Conductivity Measurement to Monitor Local Depth Changes in the Surf Zone and in Depth Soil Response to the Wave Action

Mathieu Cassen, Stephane Abadie, Gael Arnaud and Denis Morichon................ 2302

Cross-Shore Evolution of Buarcos Beach, Portugal Paula Freire, Filipa S. B. F. Oliveira, Rui Capitäo, Concei9äo Fortes and Mariana Costa ............................................................................................. 2314

XXVI

Longshore Variation of Depth of Closure on a Micro-Tidal Wave-Dominated Coast

Francois Sabatier, Marcel J. F. Stive and Frederic Pons .................................. 2327

Hyperbolic Model for Equilibrium Beach Profiles with Shoaling and Breaking Zones

Eduardo Garcia and Raul Medina................................................................... 2340

Profile Change of Coarse and Fine Material Composite Beach Takao Yamashita, Jungwook Park and Matahiro Ito ....................................... 2353

Study on Velocity Field on Beach and Profile Change of Beach Consisting of Sand and Gravel Mixture

Norimi Mizutani, Hyun-Ho Ma and Shu Eguchi ............................................. 2364

The Variation Under Different Conditions of the Influence of In-Exfiltration on Swash Zone Sediment Transport

Tony Butt, Paul Russell, Ian Turner, Jon Miles and Gerhard Masselink.............. 2377

Sediment-Level Oscillations in the Swash Zone of a Mixed Sand and Gravel Beach

Diane P. Hörn and Susan M. Walton ............................................................. 2390

Investigations on Recent Accelerated Beach Erosion on Ajigaura Coast, Ibaraki, Japan

Hiromune Yokoki, Nobuo Mimura, Yosuke Minami and Hisamichi Nobuoka ....2403

Development of an Equilibrium Bay: A Long-Term Morphodynamic Modeling Study

Markus Witting and Ulrich Zanke ................................................................. 2413

Enhancement of T-Groin's Design to Improve Downdrift Shoreline Response

Mohamed A. Dabees, Brett D. Moore and Kenneth K. Humiston ..................... 2423

Simulation of Coastal Evolution Using an N-Line Model Including Wind-Induced Currents

Yasuyuki Baba, Magnus Larson, Hans Hanson and Takao Yamashita................ 2436

One-Line Modelling of Complex Beach Conditions: An Application to Coastal Erosion at Hai Hau Beach in the Red River Delta, Vietnam

Chantal Donnelly, Nguyen Manh Hung, Magnus Larson and Hans Hanson ...... 2449

Predicting Shoreline Change on a Manipulated Shoreline Margery F. Overton, John S. Fisher and Robert Dolan...................................... 2462

Short-term Prediction of Coastal Recession Around Sandwip Island in the Northem Bay of Bengal, Bangladesh

Mustafa Ataus Samad and Hitoshi Tanaka.............................................................2471

Linear Evolution of Sand Wave Packets and Relevance to Offshore Sand Extraction

Pieter C. Roos, Paolo Blondeaux, Suzanne J.M.H. Hulscher and Giovanna Vittori ...................................................................................................2484

Understanding and Predicting Morphological Change in the Inner Humber Estuary

Ivan Haigh, Paul Norton and Ian Townend............................................................ 2493

Morphodynamic Modeling of the Öbidos Lagoon Anabela Oliveira, Andre B. Fortunato and Francisco E. P. Sancho ..................... 2506

Physical Processes Associated with Onshore Sand Bank Migration Adjacent an Estuary Mouth

Nigel P. Aird, Mark A. Davidson and Ismael J. Marino-Tapia .............................. 2519

Dimensionless Parameters to Describe Topographical Equilibrium of Coastal Inlets

Totok Suprijo and Akira Mano ............................................................................. 2531

Migration of Channels Immediately Landward of Tidal Inlets Billy L. Edge and Wahyu W. Pandoe ................................................................... 2544

Sand Waves of the Navigation Channel of the Ponta da Madeira Harbour (Brazil)

Rodrigo Nogueira de Araüjo, Paolo Alfredini and Rogerio Fernado do Amaral................................................................................... 2558

Infragravity Waves and Rhythmic Shoreline Forms at a Non-tidal, Sandy Coast with Multiple Bars

Zbigniew Pruszak, Grzegorz Rözynski, Marek Szmytkiewicz and Rafat Rafal Ostrowski ........................................................................................... 2568

Morphological Development of Shallow Sand Pits Paolo Blondeaux and Giovanna Vittori ................................................................ 2581

Superimposed Processes Creating a Complex Erosional Area at the South Atlantic Coast of Spain

Christian M. Appendini, Jose Maria Medina Villaverde, Rafael Gonzalez y Diez de la Cortina and Enrique Perez Gomez.......................... 2594

XXV111

A Numerical Hybrid Model for the Morphology of a Barred Coast with a River Mouth

Hans Fabricius Hansen, Rolf Deigaard and Nils Dranen ....................................2607

Implications of Morphodynamic Time Scale for Coastal Protection Hans Hanson and Magnus Larson ..................................................................2620

A Hybrid Approach for Modelling the Impact of Submerged Offshore Breakwaters on Egypt's North-West Coast

Hans de Vroeg, Robin Morelissen, Adbdel-Azim M. Ali and HanaaRasmy Fahmy ...................................................................................2633

Coastal Area Morphological Modelling in the Vicinity of Groins Hakeem Johnson ..........................................................................................2646

2DH and Multi 1DH Morphological Model for Medium Term Evolution of Large Scale Features and Nourishment in the Nearshore Region: Application to Trucvert and Corniche Beach (France) and La Barrosa Beach (Spain)

Philippe Larroude and Benoit Camenen .........................................................2659

Field Investigation on Regional Sediment Movement around the Shounan Coast

Shinji Sato, Takako Fukuyama, Takehisa Matsuda and Susumu Tanaka ...........2668

Use of X-Band Radar for Wave and Beach Morphology Analysis Jae Hyeng Lee, Satoshi Takewaka, Takayuki Sakai and Seiki Takano.................2681

Mass Transport and Related Bedforms Induced by Phase-Locked Edgewaves in a Groin

Asunciön Baquerizo, Miguel Ortega-Sänchez and Miguel A. Losada.................. 2694

Validation of a New Transport Formula (TRANSPOR2004) in a Three-Dimensional Morphological Model

D. J. R. Walstra, L. C. van Rijn and A. Klein .................................................. 2703

Influence of Sediment Transport Formulation on the Linear Stabil ity of Planar and Barred Coasts

M. D, Klein, H. M. Schuttelaars and M. J. F. Stive ......................................... 2716

Modeling Bar Migration Using Predicted Velocity Time Series Jamie Lescinski and H. Tuba Özkan-Haller ..................................................... 2729

Statistical Simulations for Coastal Bluff Failure Induced by Storm Waves Chia-Chi Lu, Wenkai Qin and Bruce M. Williams .......................................... 2742

Sand Bar Dynamics from a Parametric Morphodynamic Model I. Marino-Tapia, T. J. O'Hare, P. E. Russell, M. A. Davidson and D. A. Huntley ........................................................................................................ 2755

Video Observations of Crescentic Sandbar Formation and Modelling Implications

Giovanni Coco, B. G. Ruessink, I. M. J. Van Enckervort, M. Caballeria, A. Falques, R. A. Holman, N. G. Plant and I. L. Turner ........................................ 2767

Generation of Nearshore Morphology in a Combined Wave-Current-Morphology System

Hai-Ying Jiao and H. Tuba Özkan-Haller .............................................................. 2777

Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics at a Protected Beach: The Case Study of Pellestrina, Italy

Barbara Zanuttigh, Renata Archetti and Carlo Barbanti ....................................... 2784

Non-Linear Behaviour of a Double Nearshore Bar System Marije W. J. Smit, Ad J. H. M. Reniers, Marcel J. F. Stive and Dano J. A. Roelvink.............................................................................................. 2797

Experimental Analysis and 2DH Numerical Simulations of Morphodynamics Around Low-Crested Structures

Luca Martinelli, Barbara Zanuttigh, Emanuela Clementi, Massimo Guerrero and Alberto Lamberti ............................................................................................ 2810

Morphological Modelling Under an Event-Driven Wave Climate Gerhardus P. J. Diedericks, Geoffrey G. Smith and Stephen Luger....................... 2823

Morphodynamics on a Beach with a Submerged Detached Breakwater Agustin Sänchez-Arcilla, Jose M. Aisina, Ivan Cäceres, Daniel Gonzälez-Marco, Joan P. Sierra and Carlos Pefia ...................................... 2836

Storm-Scale Effects of Shore-Parallel Breakwaters on Beaches in a Tidal Setting (LEACOAST)

Tony Dolphin, Jon Taylor, Chris Vincent, John Bacon, Shunqi Pan and Brian O'Connor......................................................................................................2849

Advanced Morphological Models for Engineering Applications Stefan G. J. Aarninkhof, Gijsbert van Holland, J. A. (Dano) Roelvink and RobC. Steijn..........................................................................................................2862

Morphodynamic Instabilities in the Surf Zone Sandra Fachin and Francisco E. P. Sancho ............................................................2875

Generation of Nearshore Oblique Sand Bars: Sensitivity to Sand Transport Formulation

F. Ribas, N. C. Vis-Star, H. E. de Swart and A. Falques ...................................... 2888

Design of Carbonate Sand Beaches in Barbados Robert B. Nairn, Mohammad Dibajnia, David Anglin and Michael J. Risk ........ 2901

On Wind-Blown Transport Rate of Fine Sand Shintaro Hotta, Susumu Kubota and Souichi Harikai ........................................... 2914

Experimental Study on Effect of Vegetation Vibration on Blown Sand

Keiko Udo, Satoshi Takewaka and Hitoshi Nishimura .......................................... 2927

Coastal Management, Dredging, and Beach Nourishment ........2941 ⇑

Coast Protection at Sidmouth John Andrews ....................................................................................................... 2943

Completing the CaHKT-TleTep6ypr Flood Protection Barrier — Technical Feasibility Study

Frank Wiersma, Te Slaa Bert, Alex Boutovski, Sergei N. Kuraev, Alexander A. Garkavko and TatianaN. Kuznetsova ........................................... 2954

Better Coastal Management by Including Offshore and Geological Information in the Sediment Budget

Per Sorensen, Christian Laustrup, Soren Bjerre Knudsen and Holger Toxvig Madsen ......................................................................................... 2960

Large-Scale Sand Balance of the Netherlands Coastal System; Modelling of a Policy Indicator

Henk J. Steetzel, Zheng B. Wang and Jan P. M. Mulder ..................................... 2973

Balancing Research Efforts and Management Needs. A Challenge for Coastal Engineering

Mark van Koningsveld, Marcel J. F. Stive and Jan P. M. Mulder.......................... 2985

The "Prestige" Oil Spill: An Emergency Response Plan for the Cantabrian Coast

Sonia Castanedo, Raul Medina, Inigo J. Losada and Fernando J. Mendez ............ 2998

Coastal Hazard Prevention and Response Evaluation Lesley C. Ewing, Costas E. Synolakis and Donald D. Treadwell ........................ 3011

XXXI

Economic Impacts of Anthropogenic Activities on Coastlines of the United States

Orville T. Magoon, S. Jeffress Williams, Linda K. Lent, James A. Richmond, Donald D. Treadwell, Scott L. Douglass, Billy L. Edge, Lesley C. Ewing and Anthony P. Pratt..............................................................................................3022

Coastal Flood Forecasting: Best Practice in England and Wales Peter Hawkes, Rahman Khatibi and Paul Sayers.....................................................3036

A Comparison of Flood Risk Assessment Practices in the Netherlands and Japan

S. N. Jonkman, F. Kato and J. K. Vrijling..............................................................3049

Efficient Broad Scale Coastal Flood Risk Assessment Richard Dawson, Paul Sayers, Jim Hall, Mohammed Hassan and Paul Bates........3061

Performance Design Concept for Storm Surge Defenses Shigeo Takahashi, Hiroyasu Kawai, Tomotsuka Takayama and Takashi Tomita......................................................................................................3074

Factors Controlling Vulnerability to Storm Impacts along the Catalonian Coast

E. Tonatiuh Mendoza and Jose A. Jimenez............................................................ 3087

Coastal Data Collection in Support of Regional Sediment Management Richard J. Seymour ............................................................................................... 3100

Regional Sediment Management Based on Sediment Budget For Graded Sediments — A Case Study of Tenryu Watershed and the Enshu-Nada Coast

Ken-Ichi Torii, Shinji Sato, Takaaki Uda and Tetsuya Okayasu ........................... 3110

Flood Risk Analysis for the Flemish-Dutch Coast Toon Verwaest, Koen Trouw, Chantal Martens, Björn Van de Walle, Kirn Suykens, Rik Houthuys, Jan Maertens, Chris Keppers, Peter Wauters, Eis Stoops, Steven Smets, Wouter Vanneuville, Koen Maeghe and Tom De Mulder .................................................................................................... 3123

Video Monitoring in Support of Coastal Management Kathelijne M. Wijnberg, Stefan G. J. Aarninkhof, Mark van Koningsveld, B. Gerben Ruessink and Marcel J. F. Stive...................................... . .................... 3136

Basin-Wide Approaches to Numerical Modeling for Wetland Restoration Projects

Jeffrey G. Shelden, Paul A. Tschirky and Ramona T. Holdstock ........................ 3149

XXX11

Assessing Coastal Hazards Using Recent 3D Evolution of Beach Geomorpholoty Based on LIDAR and RTK-GPS Surveys

Helena Mitasova, Margery F. Overton, Russell S. Harmon and David Berstein ......................................................................................................3162

Sediment Dynamics Associated with Managed Realignment; Freiston Shore, The Wash, U.K.

Andrew M. Symonds and Michael B. Collins ........................................................3173

Managing Coastal Erosion in Europe Illustrated by 60 Case Studies Peter K. Schoeman, Sander E. Hoogewoning, Carlota Montori I. Blanch, Paul G. J. Sistermans and Odelinde E. Nieuwenhuis ............................................3186

The Application of New Approaches for Developing Shoreline Management Plans

Kevin Burgess and Helen Jay.................................................................................3196

Sea Level Rise and Coastal Zone Risk in the Netherlands J. K. Vrijling, P. van Gelder and M. Kok ..............................................................3207

Monitoring Requirements for Habitat Creation Schemes Natalie J. Frost, Stephen C. Hüll and Nigel I. Pontee ...........................................3217

Calibration of Water Quality Model for the Nutrient Distribution in the Meldorf Bight, Germany

Piyamarn Leangruxa, Karl-J. Hesse and Roberto Mayerle ...................................3228

Wastewater Outfalls for Coastal Cities Donald D. Treadwell, Brian J. Van Weele and Yair Eisenberg ............................3239

Environmental Design of Bilbao Submarine Outfall (Spain) Andres Garcia, Cesar Älvarez, Jose A. Revilla, Jose A. Juanes and RaülMedina .......................................................................................................... 3251

Distinguishing Project Effects From Natural Causes Herman C. Miller, Edward F. Thompson, Jesse E. McNinch, Alan K. Zundel and William A. Dennis ......................................................................................... 3264

Improving the Navigability and Safety Conditions in Douro Estuary Inlet Adelio J. R. Silva, Carlos Abecasis and Jose Chambel Leitäo ............................... 3277

Improving Navigation Conditions and Safety in the Mouth of the River Douro (Portugal)

A. Guedes-de-Campos, Ricardo B. Carvalho, I. Mota-Oliveira, A. Trigo-Teixeira and Tim Chesher ...................................................................... 3290

Modemisation of the Vistula River Outlet — Optimisation of the Jetties by Modelling Approach

Dariusz Gajsiorowski, Jaroslaw Kapiriski, Tomasz Kolerski, RafaJ Ostrowski, Malgorzata Robakiewicz, Marek Skajaand Marek Szmytkiewicz ..................... 3303

Hydrodynamics and Transport in the Coastal Zone of Säo Paulo - Brazil Paulo C. Leitäo, Jose C. Leitäo, Ramiro Neves, Gilberte Berzin and Adelio J. R. Silva......................................................................................... 3316

New Restoration Work frora Damage of Waterproof Sheet at Ash Disposal Site

Tsutomu Sakakiyama ................................................................................... 3329

A Study of Navigation Channel Subject to Regulär Dredgings Using Eigenfunction Analysis: The Adour River Mouth France

Philippe Maron, Didier Rihouey and Jean Dubranna......................................... 3342

Minimizing the Impacts of Reclamation Dredging at Cape Town Stephen Luger, Geoffrey Smith and J. S. Schoonees......................................... 3354

Beach Nourishments and Littoral Longshore Transport Interrupted by a Marina: L'Hospitalet Case Study

J. Galofre, F. J. Montoya and T. Villanueva ................................................... 3365

Predictive Model of Change in Longitudinal Profile in Beach Nourishment Using Sand of Mixed Grain Size

Takaaki Uda, Takayuki Kumada and Masumi Serizawa .................................. 3378

VOLUME FOUR ⇑

Preserving System of Nourished Beach by a Distorted Ripple Mat Nobuyuki Ono, Isao Irie and Hiroshi Yamaguchi ............................................ 3391

Behaviour of a Meganourishment on a High Energy Coastline Geoffrey G. Smith, Christoph Soltau and Emma C. Gordge............................... 3404

Protection of Recessive Coasts by Combined Beach Nourishment and Supporting Structures - A Contribution to Coastal Elood Defence

Hans-H. Dette and Hocine Oumeraci .............................................................. 3416

Rehabilitation Study of Coastal Defence Works and Artificial Sand Nourishment at Costa da Caparica, Portugal

F. Veloso-Gomes, F. Taveira-Pinto and J. Pais-Barbosa ................................. 3429

XXXIV

Beach Re-Nourishment at Playa de Villananitos, Spain Guillermo M. Diaz Mendez, Christian M. Appendini, Jose Maria Medina Villaverde, Jorge Rey Salgado, Miguel Fernändez Covarsi and Francisco Penalver Garcerän ................................ 3442

A Critical Review of Urban Beach Nourishment Projects in Cadiz City after Twelve Years

Gregorio Gömez-Pina, Juan J. Mufioz-Perez, Lorenzo Fages,

Jose L. Ramirez, Javier Enriquez and Jesus de Sobrino ......................................... 3454

Coastal Structures ...........................................................................................3467 ⇑

Catastrophic CORE-LOC Failure at Ventura Harbor, California, USA ChuckMesa ......................................................................................................... 3469

Rear-Side Stability of Rubble Mound Structures Marcel R. A. Van Gent and Beatriz Pozueta.......................................................... 3481

Residual Strength of Dike After Failure of Cover Layer E. M. Coeveld, J. G. Knoeff, A. Bizzarri and M. Klein Breteler ......................... 3494

Numerical Modelling of Breaking Waves on a Beach and Pore Pressures Inside a Breakwater

Bärd Brars, 0ivind A. Arntsen and Alf Torum..................................................... 3507

Experimental Research on the Stability of the Armour and Secondary Layer in a Single Layered Tetrapod Breakwater

Wesley de Jong, Henk Jan Verhagen and Jelle Olthof............................................3520

Effects of Layer Thickness and Core Material on Stability of Armor Units Shin-ichi Kubota, Akira Matsumoto, Minoru Hanzawa and Michio Matsuoka ....3530

Safety Assessment Using Level II Probabilistic Methods: Application to the Sines' West Breakwater

Isaac Almeida de Sousa, Maria Teresa Reis and Joäo Alfredo Santos................... 3543

Inspection and Diagnosis of Sines' West Breakwater Carlos Silvestre, Paulo Oliveira, Antonio Pascoal, Luis Sebastiäo, Joäo Alves, Joäo Alfredo Santos, Luis Gabriel Silva and Maria da GracaNeves....................... 3555

Investigation of Structure's Slope Effect on Irregulär Wave Reflection from Rubble-Mound Reshaping Seawalls

Mohammad Ali Salehipour, Fereydoun Vafaie and Peyman Aghtouman ............3568

Minimum Number of Waves in Irregulär Wave Trains for Laboratory Stability Tests of Armour Units

Yoshiharu Matsumi, Ken-lchi Ohno and Akira Kimura .......................................3579

Wave-to-Wave Exponential Estimation of Armor Damage Progression Maria Esther, Gömez-Martin and Josep R. Medina...............................................3592

Expected Damage Evolution of a Mound-Breakwater During Its Useful Life M. I. Benedicto, M. V. Ramos, M. A. Losada and I. Rodriguez.............................3605

Development of Stochastic Typhoon Model for Performance Design of Coastal Structures

Noriaki Hashimoto, Hiroyasu Kawai, Kuniaki Matsuura and Koji Kawaguchi ....3615

Experimental Research on the Falling Behaviour of Single Quarry Stones and Groups of Quarry Stones in Water

J. R. van der Wal, J. K. Vrijling, G. M. de Boer, H. L. Fontijn, J. Olthof and W. H. Tutuarima....................................................................................................3628

Combined Influence of Berms and Wave Direction on Wave Run-up Karl-Friedrich Daemrich, Holger Schüttrumpf, Janine Kubier, "Nino Ohle, Hocine Oumeraci and Claus Zimmermann ...........................................................3640

Wave Group Induced Set-Up on and Its Effect on Wave Run-Up on Sloped Structures

Volker Barthel, Holger Schüttrumpf, Andrew Cornett and Nino Ohle ................3653

Umuiden Breakwaters: A Special Case A. van Hoven, M. B. de Groot and J. P. F. M. Janssen ........................................ 3666

Funchal Airport Extension Berm Breakwater - Design, Construction and Monitoring

Carlos Abecasis and A. Ferreira da Costa ............................................................. 3677

Wave Height and Period Parameters for Damage Description on Rubble-Mound Breakwaters

Cesar Vidal, Raul Medina, Francisco L. Martin and Leonardo Migoya ............... 3688

Pore Pressure Measurements Inside Rubble Mound Breakwaters Einar Helgason, Hans F. Burcharth and Joachim Grüne ........................................ 3701

Flow Measurements Around and Inside Submerged Rubble-Mounds Under Normal and Oblique Wave Attack

Pedro Lomonaco, Cesar Vidal, Maria da GracaNeves and Inigo J. Losada .......... 3714

Effect of Extreme Waves in an Irregulär Wave Train on the Stability of Rubble Mound Breakwaters

Berguzar Oztunali Ozbahceci, Tomotsuka Takayama, Hajime Mase and Aysen Ergin .......................................................................................................... 3727

Design of Berm Breakwaters for Extreme Wave Conditions Sverre Bjordal, Svein Vold, Gisli Viggosson and Sigurdur Sigurdurson ............. 3740

Hydraulic Characteristics of the Wave Chamber Installed Rubble Mound Seawater Exchange Breakwater

Dal Soo Lee, Young Min Oh, In Sik Chun and Chang II Kim............................ 3753

Laboratory Experiments on the Sliding Distance and Tilting Angle of a Caisson Breakwater Subject to Wave Impact

Tae-Min Kim, Tomotsuka Takayama and Yutaka Miyawaki ............................ 3762

Effect of Long Footing on Sliding Stability of a Hybrid Caisson Keiji Esaki, Tomotsuka Takayama and Tae-Min Kim ...................................... 3775

Excitation of Vortex Induced Currents by Piston Mode Wave Resonance in Double-Curtain Walled Breakwaters

Yoshihiro Ohmura, Takayuki Nakamura and Kuniaki Ohi ................................ 3787

Pore Pressure Development in the Sand Bed Underneath a Caisson Breakwater

M. Kudella and H. Oumeraci .........................................................................3800

Large Scale Model Tests on a New Low Reflection Caisson Jorge Flores, Alfredo Carrasco and Juan Carlos Sunez.......................................3813

Learning From 20 Years of Design and Realisation on Coastal Protection Over the Tyrrenian-Calabrian Coast

Franco Guiducci and Giuseppe Paolella .........................................................3826

Seawalls and Revetments in Coastal Engineering Practice Jan van de Graaff .........................................................................................3839

Coastal Erosion Control Using Sand-Filled Geotextile Containers: A Case Study from the NW Coast of Portugal

Luciana dasNeves, Fernando Veloso Gomes and Mariade Lurdes Lopes............3852

Cobble Beaches and Revetments LeslieE. Meigs, Nobuhisa Kobayashi and Jeffrey A. Melby ............................3865

Analysis of Blockwork Coastal Structures Reinhard Marth, Gerald Muller, Andreas Klavzar, Guido Wolters, William Allsop and Tom Bruce .....................................................................3878

A Design Method for Timber Wave Screens David L. Knebel ..........................................................................................3891

Feasibility of Geocontainers at the Sea Shore M. B. De Groot, M. Klein Breteler and E. Berendsen............................................ 3904

Coastal Evolution and Coastal Works in the Southern Part of Aveiro Lagoon Inlet, Portugal

C. Coelho, F. Taveira-Pinto, F. Veloso-Gomes and J. Pais-Barbosa ....................3914

Cotonou Sea Defence Project, Benin, West Africa Mohammad Dibajnia and Robert B. Nairn ............................................................3927

Marine Ecosystem Enhancement on a Geotextile Coastal Protection Reef- Narrowneck Reef Case Study

Leslie (Angus) Jackson, Russell E. Reichelt, Simon Restall, Bobbie Corbett, Rodger Tomlinson and John McGrath ..................................................................3940

Methodology for Assessing the Impact of Climate Change Upon Coastal Defence Structures

Ian Townend and Kevin Burgess ..........................................................................3953

Characteristics and Design Implications of Breaking Wave Impacts Geoffrey Bullock, Charlotte Obhrai, Gerald Müller, Guido Wolters, Howell Peregrine and Henrik Bredmose ................................................................3966

Nonlinear Interactions and Wave Run-Up Near a Gravity Base Structure E. Jamois, O. Kimmoun, B. Molin and Y. Stassen ............................................... 3979

Wave Loading on Monopile Foundation for Offshore Wind Turbines in Shallow-Water Areas

Marilyne Luck and Michel Benoit ........................................................................ 3992

Water Wave Impact on Walls and the Role of Air D. H. Peregrine, H. Bredmose, G. Bullock, C. Obhrai, G. Müller and G.Wolters ............................................................................................................. 4005

Theoretical Formulae for Wave Slamming Loads on Slender Circular Cylinders and Application for Support Structures of Wind Turbines

Jan Wienke, Uwe Sparboom and Hocine Oumeraci ............................................. 4018

Field and Large Scale Model Tests of Wave Impact Pressure Propagation into Cracks

Guido Wolters, Gerald Müller, Geoffrey Bullock, Charlotte Obhrai, Howell Peregrine and Henrik Bredmose................................................................ 4027

Investigation of Input Data for the Dimensioning of Groyne Piles Frank Weichbrodt, Christian Dede, Joerg Radomski and Soeren Kohlhase ......... 4040

Wave Impacts at Sea Walls Giovanni Cuomo and William Allsop.................................................................... 4050

Numerical Simulation of Wave Transmission and Forces on Flap-Type Storni Surge Barrier

Takashi Tomita, Koji Kawasaki and Kenichiro Shimosako ................................... 4063

Violent Wave Impacts on Vertical and Inclined Walls: Large Scale Model Tests

Charlotte Obhrai, Geoffrey Bullock, Guido Wolters, Gerald Müller, Hovvell Peregrine, Henrik Bredmose and Joachim Grüne ...................................... 4075

Wave Forces on Crown Walls: Evaluation of Existing Empirical Formulations

Paula Camus Bafia and Jorge Flores Guillen ........................................................ 4087

Numerical Simulation of Water Wave Impacts using aNavier-Stokes Solver

T. Q. Li, P. Troch, J. De Rouck and D. Goossens ................................................. 4100

Probability of Occurrence of Wave Loading on Jetty Deck Elements Ridha Bentiba, Giovanni Cuomo, William Allsop and Nigel Bunn ....................... 4113

Design Guidelines for Low Crested Structures Hans F. Burcharth and Alberto Lamberti............................................................... 4126

Stability of Block Revetments on Low Crested Breakwaters M. Klein Breteler, H. J. Regeling, Theo Stoutjesdijk and J. C. P. Johanson ........ 4139

Wave Transmission at Low-Crested Structures, Including Oblique Wave Attack

Jentsje W. van der Meer, Riccardo Briganti, Baoxing Wang and Barbara Zanuttigh.................................................................................................. 4152

Physical Model Study of Water Piling-Up Behind Low-Crested Structures Piero Ruol, Alberto Faedo and Alessandro Paris ..................................................4165

Wave Run-Up, Overtopping and Percolation Over Low Crested Structures Alberto Lamberti, Barbara Zanuttigh and Luca Martinelli ...................................4178

Scour Around the Head of the West Breakwater of Mailliao Industrial Harbor

Kao-Shu Hwang, Hwung-Hweng Hwung and Jin-Yih Liou...................................4191

XXXIX

Observations of Momentan/ Liquefaction Caused by Breaking Waves Around a Coastal Structure

Mathieu Mory, Herve Michallet, Stephane Abadie, Ismael Piedra-Cueva, David Bonjean, Pierre Breul and Mathieu Cassen ............................................... 4204

Testing of the Interaction of Coastal Windfarm Foundations with the Seabed: Scour and Liquefaction

Richard J. S. Whitehouse, Scott L. Dünn, John S. Alderson and Pui Lee Vun .... 4215

Wave-Induced Forces on Structural and Biotic Elements of Low-Crested Structures

Matteo Tirindelli and Alberto Lamberti................................................................. 4228

Flow at Low-Crested Structures Under Breaking Conditions Nicolas Garcia, Javier L. Lara, Pedro Lomonaco and Inigo J. Losada ................... 4240

Infiltration of Overtopping Water in a Breakwater Crest Henk Jan Verhagen, Jeroen Steenaard and Thieu Quang Tuan.............................. 4253

Safety Under Wave Overtopping - How Overtopping Processes and Hazards are Viewed by the Public

William Allsop, Tom Bruce, Jon Pearson, Leopoldo Franco, Jo Burgon and Christine Ecob ...................................................................................................... 4263

Neural Network Modelling of Wave Overtopping Over Coastal Structures Beatriz Pozueta, Marcel R. A. Van Gent, Henk Van Den Boogaard and JosepR. Medina ................................................................................................... 4275

Wave Overtopping at Ostia Yacht Harbour Breakwater: Comparison Between Field Measurements and Model Tests in 2D and 3D

Jimmy Geeraerts Peter Troch Julien De Rouck, Marc Willems, Leopoldo Franco, Giorgio Bellotti and Riccardo Briganti ................................... 4288

The International Database on Wave Overtopping Gosse Jan Steendam, Jentsje W. van der Meer, Hadewych Verhaeghe, Phil Besley, Leopoldo Franco and Marcel R. A. van Gent ...................................4301

Performance of Seawalls against Wave Overtopping and Damage Minoru Flanzawa, Nobufumi Yamagata, Takami Nishihara, Yasuhiro Umezaki, Isao Tanaka, Tomotsuka Takayama, Shigeo Takahashi and Ryoichi Tomiyasu ..........................................................................................4314

Overtopping and Rear Slope Stability of Reshaping and Non-Reshaping Berm Breakwaters

T. Lykke Andersen and H. F. Burcharth ................................................................4326

xl

Applicability of On-Site Wave Overtopping Sensor Tetsuya Hiraishi, Masaki Hattori, Katsuya Hirayama, Toshihiko Nagai and Tomohiro Yasuda .................................................................................................4341

Effect of Water Depth and Surface Roughness on Wave Run-Up Janaka J. Wijetunge ...............................................................................................4354

Development of Non Wave-Overtopping Type Seawall in Deep Water Masaru Yamashiro, Akinori Yoshida and Isao Irie.................................................4367

Violent Wave Overtopping at Samphire Hoe: Field and Laboratory Measurements

Tim Pullen, William Allsop, Tom Bruce, Jonathan Pearson and Jimmy Geeraerts ...................................................................................................4379

Prediction of Low Overtopping Rates on Embankment Structures Alice Le Für, Tim Pullen and William Allsop ......................................................4391

Effectiveness of Recurve Walls in Reducing Wave Overtopping on Seawalls and Breakwaters

Jon Pearson, Tom Bruce, William Allsop, Andreas Kortenhaus and Jentsje van der Meer ............................................................................................. 4404

Wave Overtopping of Shallow Sloping Seawalls: Extension and Refmement of Empirical Prediction Methods

Ibrahim Bay, Terry Hedges, Mohamed Shareef and Tim Pullen .......................... 4417

Spatial Variability and Foreshore Influence on Overtopping Joaquin M. Garrido, Jose A. Gonzälez-Escrivä, Josep R. Medina and Andreas Kortenhaus ............................................................................................... 4430

Extended Shallow Water Prediction of Overtopping J. Shiach, C. G. Mingham, D. M. Ingram, D. M. Causon, T. Bruce, J. Pearson and N. W. H. Allsop ............................................................................. 4443

Laboratory Effects and Further Uncertainties Associated with Wave Overtopping Measurements

A. Kortenhaus, H. Oumeraci, J. Geeraerts, J. de Rouck, J. R. Medina and J. A. Gonzälez-Escrivä .......................................................................................... 4456

Violent Wave Overtopping on Vertical and Inclined Walls: Large Scale Model Tests

Joachim Grüne, Zeya Wang, Geoffrey Bullockand Charlotte Obhrai ................... 4469

Violent Overtopping of Vertical Seawalls under Oblique Wave Conditions "Nicolas Napp, Tom Bruce, Jonathan Pearson and William Allsop ...................... 4482

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Wave Damping in Rubble Mounds M. Muttray and H. Oumeraci..........................................................................4494

Structural Integrity of XBLOC® Breakwater Armour Units Prototype and Numerical Drop Tests

Ronald Hakenberg, Ineke Vos-Rovers, Bas Reedijk and Markus Muttray ............4507

Linear Shoaling and Non-Linear Analysis of a New Type of Extended Boussinesq Model

P. Gomi, P. Sergent and K. Meftah.................................................................4520

Tides in Coastal Areas from Altimeter Data Charles J. Calkoen........................................................................................ 4534

Extreme Transport of Sediment due to Turbidity Currents in Coastal Waters

Leo C. van Rijin........................................................................................... 4547

Numerical Wave Flume Simulations of Seawater Overtopping D. M. Ingram, F. Gao, D. M. Causon, C. G. Mingham and P. Troch ................. 4560