ITALIA!Issue 109December 20134.40THE UKS AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY9771744 7960541 2Issue 109December 20134.40NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.comAPERITIVI IN MILANCosy up in the citys best barsBUY YOUR DREAM HOME Our guide to property in Italys best citiesSorrentos secret hill townDiscover the living presepe of CasarlanoTasty pasta recipes for speedy suppersMAKE & GIVE Recipes to make your own Italian hamper treatsSpend a perfect weekend shopping and exploring the Eternal City, alive with festive warmth and lights ROMANTIC ROMEHOLIDAYSPROPERTYFOODWINECULTUREPEOPLEGIFT GUIDEItalian buys for all!SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!*UK orders onlySubscribe and get a free calendar*, as well as UK delivery direct to your door. Turn to page 62 to nd out more.WE L COME TOI TAL I A!December 2013ITALIA!3Welcome!THIS MONTHS CONTRIBUTORSMarina Spironetti avoids the Christmas rush in Milan and takes us for an aperitivo instead. Page 37.AMY LUCINDA JONES is a teacher, writer, blogger and lover of Italian food particularly that of Puglia, where she lives and works. Amy has been compiling our Blog Spot feature for several months now, and this month she begins a new regular feature about the unique cuisine of her adopted homeland. Notes from Puglia is on page 76.MARIO MATASSA is preparing for Christmas. Okay, so were all preparing for Christmas But in Marios case that means organising a menu for a family trattoria just outside Piacenza. Its lucky young Giulianos pizza dough-stretching skills are coming along nicely. That might just buy Mario enough time to nd some cranberries Page 53.FLEUR KINSON guides us away from the lure of delapidated farmhouses in the hinterland and takes us on a tour of Italys cities in search of urban residences, for pleasure or prot. There isnt much you can get in London for 200,000 but you can buy a nice one-bedroom at in Florence and get a decent year-round rental income. Page 20.Cover image iStock photo, Christmas tree in RomeThis image Marina SpironettiAWARD WINNER!The Italian Tourist Board voted Italia! the Best Overall Publication 2011Id rather a white Christmas than a wet one. Unfortunately December is the rainy season for much of central Italy, so if you visit, make sure you take an umbrella. But even rain cant dampen the festive delights youll nd here in the run up to Christmas. Every single shop will have some kind of holiday display very different from the awful seasonal tunes and bling blasting at you on the UK high street, as I found out when I spent a December weekend in Rome (page 30). Christmas shopping with views of the Colosseum? Yes please. Another perfect way to soak up the seasonal Italian atmosphere is to tour Milans fabulous aperitivi bars and cosy up from the cold in their welcoming interiors (page 37). For a taste of a southern Italian Christmas, read about the living presepe of Sorrento (page 43), where an entire village is transformed into a giant Nativity tableau an event that could only work in the warmer, less rainy south. Mario Matassas tales of life inside his Italian trattoria have been real favourites with Italia! readers over the last few months. He tells us how he copes with the Christmas rush on page 53. And if you fancy spending time in your own kitchen, we have recipes for Italian hamper gifts on page 64. Home-made gifts are all the rage this year. Add the sophistication of Italy to make yours stand out and whats more sophisticated than a chocolate salami?Buon Natale!Hannah Bellis EditorPS Italia!s Guide to the classical Grand Tour route is on sale now (7.99). Visit www.italytravelandlife.com/italiaguides64IN THIS ISSUEHOLIDAYS & MORE30 48 HOURS IN FESTIVE ROME Hannah Bellis wants to know if its worth going to Rome to do your Christmas gift shopping, and finds out that it is.37MILANS HAPPIEST HOUR Marina Spironetti goes through her address book to show us some of the best places to take an aperitivo in Milan.43THE LIVING PRESEPE OF CASARLANOHannah Bellis ventures up into the hills above Sorrento to discover a Nativity Scene with a difference.68 CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDEInspirational ideas for Italian-themed Christmas presents for your family, friends and loved ones.PROPERTY20HOMES IN CITY APARTMENTSBe they for pleasure or profit, urban properties can make an especially good purchase, says Fleur Kinson. 48PROPERTY FOCUS: TUSCANY What can you expect to spend these days on property in Italys most desirable region?December 2013FOOD & DRINK53CHRISTMAS AT THE BELLARIAMario Matassa and Elena Leoni are preparing for Christmas at their trattoria.59FOUR TAKES ON SHALLOTS UK Shallots show you how to bring warmth and depth to meat, fish and vegetable dishes.64FESTIVE TREATSMaking your own Christmas treats doesnt have to take ages or cost you lots of money. April Carter will teach you how.72THE AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROMEPasta served direct from the American Academy in Rome, presented by Christopher Boswell with Elena Goldblatt.76NOTES FROM PUGLIAAmy Lucinda Jones takes us through the very best of the Pugliese cocina.78 BUY ITALIA! SWEET TREATSThe best Christmas dolci from Italy. 80 NOVIKOV DELIGHTSHead Chef Carmelo Carnevale presents some recipes from the Mayfair restaurant.87DRINK ITALIA! LIQUEURSHannah Bellis shares her favourite sippers.8043374ITALIA! December 2013203068MORE ITALIA!7 LETTERSReaders share their stories and pictures from their experiences in Italy.8PHOTO OF THE MONTHEnter your photographs for your chance to win a bottle of Nino Franco Prosecco!10VIEWPOINTA unique structure in the dockyard of Genoa.12NEWS All the headline stories from Italy this month.18EVENTS IN DECEMBERHighlights from across Italy to help you plan your forthcoming visit.29SPEAK ITALIA!Sebastian Cresswell-Turner considers what people actually expect from someone who claims to speak Italian.I NTHI S I S S UE50PAST ITALIA!The depiction of the Madonna in Palermos chiesa del Ges.52FAST CULTUREFreya Middleton discusses the Last Supper in Italian art.62SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!Get a free calendar as well as 25 per cent off when you subscribe to Italia!84ASK THE EXPERTSMore insider knowledge on purchasing property and paying income tax.92BOOK REVIEWS The pick of this months best new releases.94GETTING THERE Our ight guides will help you plan your travel from the UK and Ireland.p30ON THE COVERp68p64p20GENOAp10PUGLIAp76TUSCANYp48SORRENTOp43MILANp37ROMEp72PIACENZAp30PALERMOp50p37p43p72p53ITALIA!www.italytravelandlife.comAnthem Publishing Ltd, Suite 6, Piccadilly House,London Road, Bath BA1 6PL +44 (0) 1225 489986 (editorial) +44 (0) 1225 489989 ( (advertising)Fax +44 (0) 1225 489980italia@anthem-publishing.comEDITOR Hannah Bellishannah.bellis@anthem-publishing.comART EDITOR Debra Barberdebra.barber@anthem-publishing.comOPERATIONS EDITOR Jonathan Palmerjon.palmer@anthem-publishing.comEDITORIAL INTERN Zulekha Afzalzulekha.afzal@anthem-publishing.comCONTRIBUTORSChristopher Boswell, Finlay Campbell, Carmelo Carnevale, April Carter, Sebastian Cresswell-Turner, Elena Goldblatt, Amy Lucinda Jones, Gideon Kibblewhite, Fleur Kinson, Elena Leoni, Mario Matassa, Freya Middleton, Marina SpironettiMARKETING ASSISTANT Anna Wilkieanna.wilkie@anthem-publishing.com ADVERTISING SALES EXECUTIVE Laura McLeanlaura.mclean@anthem-publishing.comADVERTISING MANAGER Sarah Lindsaysarah.lindsay@anthem-publishing.comADVERTISING DIRECTOR Simon Lewissimon.lewis@anthem-publishing.comEDITORIAL DIRECTOR Paul Pettengalepaul.pettengale@anthem-publishing.comART DIRECTOR Jenny Cookjenny.cook@anthem-publishing.comMANAGING DIRECTOR Jon Bickleyjon.bickley@anthem-publishing.comSUBSCRIPTIONS & BACK ISSUES 0844 322 1254/+44 (0) 1795 592848 italia@servicehelpline.co.ukPrice (12 issues) 42 UK basic annual rateMAPS Netmaps www.digitalmaps.co.ukPRINT Polestar UK Print Ltd +44 (0) 1206 849500DISTRIBUTION Marketforce (UK) Ltd,Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark St, London SE1 0SU +44 (0) 20 3148 3300LICENSING ENQUIRIES Jon Bickleyjon.bickley@anthem-publishing.com +44 (0) 1225 489984All content copyright Anthem Publishing Ltd, 2013, all rights reserved. While we make every effort to ensure that the factual contentof Italia! is correct we cannot take any responsibility nor beheld accountable for any factual errors printed.No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or resold without the prior consent of Anthem Publishing Ltd.Anthem Publishing recognises all copyrights contained withinthis issue. Where possible we acknowledge the copyright holder.TEXTING ITALIA! TERMS AND CONDITIONSBy texting Italia! magazine you are agreeing to receive details of future offers and promotions from Anthem Publishing Ltd and related third parties. If you do not want to receive this information please text the words NO INFO at the end of your message. Texts will be charged at the specied price plus one message at your standard network tariff rate. COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS By entering this competition you are bound by these rules. The winners will be drawn at random from all entries that answer correctly before the closing date. The prize draw will take place after the closing date and the winners will be notied within 28 days of the draw. Only UK residents aged 18 and over may enter. No employees of Anthem Publishing Ltd or any company associated with this competition, or any member of their close family may enter. Prizes are as stated and no alternatives, cash or otherwise are available. Anthem Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury caused by any prizes won. The editors decision is nal and no correspondence will be entered into. Where prizes are offered on behalf of an associated company these prizes are provided in their entirety by these associated companies. Anthem Publishing Ltd cannot be held responsible for any failure to provide prizes as specied and all enquiries relating to such prizes will be referred to the associated companies. All entries must be received by the closing date. One entry per person. No purchase necessary. Copies of winners list are available by written request from Anthem Publishing, Suite 6, Piccadilly House, London Road, Bath BA1 6PL.LEP Law provides comprehensive legal advice to UK based clients with interests in ItalyOur legal services Real Estate acquisitions in ItalyUK and Italian inheritance rules, Italian and International wills, inheritance disputes in ItalyContractual law and legal assistance with contractual disputes Credit recoveryTranslation of legal documentsLEP Law are experts in navigating the complexities between the Italian and English legal systems and guiding you through it seamlesslyVictory House, 99-101 Regent Street, London W1B 4EZ +44 (0)20 7193 0290 enquiries@leplaw.co.uk www.leplaw.co.ukLooking for a home in Italy?LETTER OF THE MONTHI am contacting you to draw attention to what I think is an error in Sebastian Cresswell-Turners article Forms of Address in the November issue of Italia! magazine.I am sure that you will have been contacted by other readers regarding this but I must add my comments.In the article we are told about the informal (tu) and formal (Lei) terms of addressing people in Italian, namely whether to use the second or third person singular.In the penultimate paragraph of the article we are then told that when saying excuse me in the informal way (tu) we would say Scusa! and when using the formal address (Lei) we should say Scusi!. Surely these two examples are the wrong way around?Scusi (2nd person singular) is the informal way of saying Excuse me, is it not? Whereas Scusa (3rd person singular) is the formal way of saying excuse me.It seems to me that this contradicts the whole article, or have I got it completely wrong? If so I am totally confused!Peter Howe, Confused of Whitchurch, ShropshireActually, Sebastians correct (as usual). The cause of your confusion is that this is the imperative form, not the indicative. Sebastian explains: The informal imperative for the verb scusare is scusa! (ie, when you are addressing someone as tu. The formal imperative is scusi! (ie, when you are addressing someone as Lei). Non-Italian speakers do indeed get muddled by the imperative forms, especially since there are three types of imperative (tu, Lei, and noi), and three main conjugations (-are, -ere and -ire).Share all your Italian experiences with us by sending your photos and letters to italia@anthem-publishing.com youll receive a gourmet gift set if youre chosen as our Letter of the Month winnerLETTERS TO ITALIA!CIAO MARIO MATASSA!Ciao Mario!I hope this email makes it through. I just wanted to drop you an email and thank you for cheering up my father, Ennio Inzani.The reason? He pines after Italy and in particular his home town of CastellArquato. He is an avid reader of Italia! magazine and when the article you wrote about taking over the Belaria came through, I thought hed explode!Our family comes from the hills just outside Lugagnano (grandfathers side, San Giorgio; grandmothers side, Velleia) and, along with my brother, we used to holiday in Italy every year, from the age of six months. I have fond memories of being dragged around the markets in the morning, then off to lunch at SantAntonio (Da Faccini?) or Belaria and my favourite Da Dorino (Rustigazzo). The food, lifestyle and sense of community have stayed with me all these years and now we visit regularly with my three young children. In fact, my father is in the process of teaching them Italian every Tuesday. Its great to read your article and when we come over I very much look forward to coming to your restaurant. I wish you all the success with your venture and appreciate it cant be easy in these difcult economic times. So keep up the good work. We are all watching closely!Stephen Inzani, by emailThis letter refers to the series of three articles (Italia! 105-107) Mario wrote about setting up his restaurant in Carpaneto Piacentino, which is just a short drive north from CastellArquato. It was sent direct to Mario, who appreciated it so much he forwarded it to us at the ofce. Turn to page 53 to read another highly entertaining feature from Mario, on Christmas preparations at the restaurant. Each issue, our Letter of the Month winner (when based in the UK) will win Calabrian specialities from the Calabria Club restaurant and online store. The winner can enjoy a jar of delicious Nduja salami and two bottles of Cantine Lavorata Calabrian DOC wine perfect for making any party start with a bang. Find out more about Calabria Clubs products and see the full range of ingredients at www.calabriacucina.co.uk or call 01246 559944LETTER OF THEMONTH DEC2013Italian verbs arent easyYOU TELL US!We love receiving your letters, photos, questions and recommendations! Write to us today...HOW TO GET IN TOUCHTEXTText your thoughts about Italy and Italia! magazine to us. Text the word ITALIA plus your message to 87474. (Texts cost 25p plus your standard network rate. For full terms and conditions see page 6.)WRITESend post to us at Italia! magazine, Anthem Publishing, Suite 6, Piccadilly House, London Road, Bath BA1 6PLEMAILitalia@anthem-publishing.com FACEBOOKKeep up with Italia! on Facebook. Go to www.facebook.com then search for Italia magazine and click on Like to join us.TWITTERGo to www.italia-magazine.com, and follow the Twitter link to keep up with tweets from Italiamag. See you there!December 2013 ITALIA! 7You will have been contacted by other readers about this iStock PhotoCiao Mario!Send us your best photos of Italy, and each month our favourite will win a bottle of Nino Franco Prosecco and chiller *! There are some real gems hereREADERS PHOTOCOMPETITION!WIN! NINO FRANCO RUSTICO PROSECCO & CHILLERTHIS MONTHS WINNER Ponte della MaddalenaWe visited Tuscany this September and stopped to admire this stunning bridge at Borgo a Mozzano, known as Ponte della Maddalena.Sean ChefngsTHE RUNNERS-UP Igor the dogThis is my favourite picture of Pacentro, Abruzzo. This is Igor, the village dog. No one knows who he belongs to but if he sees you going on a walk, he loves to come with.Trisha EllseBicycle in a vineyardMy husband and I love Amarone wines and made a visit to the Valpolicella region. We stayed at a working winery where we could walk among the vines.Heather von BargenVenetian canal While visiting Venice in 2009 I came across two buildings, one in shadow, one in sunlight. I was captivated by the view of the canal through the buildings.Lynn Hill//8 ITALIA! December 2013

December 2013 ITALIA! 9YOURI TAL I A!THIS MONTHS WINNER!HOW TO ENTER Email high-resolution jpegs of your best Italian photos (set your camera to its highest quality setting) to italia@anthem-publishing.com or send prints to Reader Photo Competition at the address on page 7. Include a brief explanation of your photo plus your name and contact details. All entrants must be over 18. READER OFFER Italia! readers can receive an extra 10 per cent discount off Nino Franco wines from www.sommelierschoice.com until 30 December 2013 by entering the code italia10 at the checkout.Rules: Any photos you submit must be your own work and you must have the right to send them for inclusion on this page. By sending your entry, you are agreeing to this, agreeing that Italia!s use of the photo will not constitute infringement of any rights, and conrming that you are over 18.*Prosecco delivered to mainland UK addresses only10 ITALIA! December 2013 VIEWPOINTThe Bigo will take you to dizzying heights for a breathless and panoramic view of the beautiful old port of Genoa and the city that waits beyond... The striking Bigo is located in Genoa and was designed by Renzo Piano for the 1992 Columbus celebrations. Inspired by an ancient derrick for the ships using the port, it has since become the archetypal symbol of Genoas old port and the citys close relationship with the sea. The unique structure offers stunning views over the city in a panoramic lift which boasts a rotating see-through cabin there is no escaping Genoas beauty as you ascend 40 metres above the city. The structural core of the Bigo sits under water in the dockyard, with two groups of arms emerging and fanning out above water. These arms are the key feature of the Bigo and their different lengths create a design that is not only eye catching but serves a crucial purpose. The longest, at 70 metres, supports the cable of the panoramic lift, some others support the roof of the Piazza delle Feste. All of the arms are anchored to the foundations of the structure below sea level. Bigo is a great opportunity to get a birds-eye view of the old port while learning about Genoas history and experiencing it from a new height.!December 2013 ITALIA! 11 iStock photoNEW DA VINCI PAINTINGS DISCOVEREDIts been an exciting month for the da Vinci world. Not one but possibly two unknown works by the Renaissance master have been found. At Sforza Castle in Milan, restorers were shocked when they peeled away layers of whitewash to reveal part of a da Vinci mural. It was discovered in a room already containing a da Vinci mural and is believed to have been painted while he was court artist for the Duke of Milan. Meanwhile, a team in Switzerland think that a painting found in a private family vault is a long-lost da Vinci portrait of noblewoman Isabella dEste. They say it is a nal version of a circa 1500 chalk sketch on display in the Louvre. The portrait is 61 by 46.5cm (24 by 18ins) and shows dEste in prole. Not all experts are yet convinced of its authenticity though. Last year, another possible da Vinci, a 500-year-old portrait of Madonna and child, was discovered in a Scottish farmhouse. If it is authenticated, the painting could be worth over $150 million.Photography iStock Photo and PA Photos unless otherwise statedTHIS MONTHDecember 2013An unprecedented archaeological nd, Paul Gascoignes Italian Strictly adventure, and Rome and Milans potential bids to host the Olympics have all made the Italian news this monthNE WSOWZ VAT!The Vatican wants to crush the Church of England at cricket. The Vatican already has its own club, St Peters, and now wants a Vatican XI to take on a team of Anglicans at Lords. The idea for a Vatican cricket club is credited John McCarthy, Australias ambassador to the Vatican. Pope Francis is not known to be a cricket fan, but Theodore Mascarenhas, Indian priest, former spin-bowler and chairman of St Peters CC, said: I am sure that cricket will be another thing he accepts as part of his openness.LOREN TAX WINBig screen legend Sophia Loren has won a court battle over a tax bill dating back to 1974. Loren, who was jailed for 17 days in 1982 after a separate tax dispute, successfully argued that she owed tax on 60 per cent of her income for that year and not 70 per cent. Her lawyer, Giovanni Desideri, said: The supreme court has wrapped up a Kafkaesque case. Loren, who has just nished shooting a movie of the Jean Cocteau play The Human Voice in her native Naples, said: Its a miracle of justice. 12 ITALIA! December 2013SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETSMEDITERRANEAN PATROLS STEPPED UP AFTER MIGRANT DROWNINGS Italy has introduced drone and tripled sea patrols to try and halt the migrant boat disasters that have seen over 360 people killed off Lampedusa in recent weeks. Hundreds of people have been rescued from packed boats as the migrant crisis continues to grow. More than 33,000 people have landed in Italy this year three times more than last. The majority are from war-torn Eritrea, Somalia and Syria. Giusi Nicolini, mayor of Lampedusa, where most of the migrants land, has told European leaders that there is a need for complete overhaul of EU immigration policies. Unless Europes approach to asylum and immigration changes, it wont only be the migrants but the EU that drowns off Lampedusa, she said. Enrico Etto said that mere rhetoric was not enough and that practical steps were needed to tackle an issue that has as become a European issue, not simply an Italian issue, or Maltese, or Greek. POLITICAL BATTLES CONTINUES AMID BUDGET DEMONSTRATIONS Protesters have taken to the streets of Rome to demonstrate against Italys proposed new budget, which unions and the left are calling an attack on state pay and pensions, and which the right and business leaders say fails to stimulate growth. With Prime Minister Enrico Lettas own Democratic Party in revolt, fears are rising that his unstable coalition could be in difculties just a month after surviving an attempt by Silvio Berlusconi to bring it down. Mr Berlusconi, meanwhile, is attempting to bounce back from his humiliating defeat at the hands of a group of his own People of Freedom MPs by relaunching his Forza Italian Party, a move which looks like splitting the right.Berlusconi who is appealing against multiple convictions and now also facing new bribery charges is threatening to bring down the government if he is expelled from parliament.Polls suggest, however, that no single party would be able to secure an overall majority. With Prime Minister Enrico Lettas own Democratic Party in revolt, fears are rising that his unstable coalition could be in difculties just a month after surviving an attempt by Silvio Berlusconi to bring it downCOIN RECALLRed-faced Vatican ofcials have recalled 6,000 commemorative medals commissioned to celebrate Pope Francis rst year because they misspelled the name Jesus. The embarrassing typo saw Jesus spelled Lesus. Laughing off the matter, spokesman Federico Lombardi said: Everybody makes mistakes. Even people who make coins! Interestingly, some four coins were sold before the mistake was reported, and these are expected to become valuable collectors items. IMBECILE BALOTELLI Footballer Mario Balotelli is in hot water for appearing to use Twitter to distance himself from the anti-maa campaign. The storm erupted after Gazzetta dello Sport suggested that he was looking forward to appearing in a charity match in a ground seized from the Camorra. Balotelli tweeted in response: This is what you say! Prominent anti-Camorra priest Aniello Manganiello called him an imbecile and a silly, spoilt child. Balotelli had already come under re for socialising with known Naples mobsters. December 2013 ITALIA! 13S...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPENE WSCRUISE SHIPS PUT VENICE ON MONUMENT THREAT WATCH-LIST Venice has been added to the World Monuments Funds (WMF) list of sites under threat. The organisation, founded to protect architectural and cultural attractions, said cruise ship tourism was the reason for the citys inclusion. Two million tourists arrived in Venice by cruise ship last year, and around half of the citys population have moved out in the past decade. The WMF said in its report: Many heritage professionals believe that the advent in the last decade of large-scale cruise tourism is pushing Venice to an environmental tipping point and undermining quality of life for its citizens. Venice is included in the hope of inspiring a more penetrating analysis of the economic value of the large-scale cruise industry for the community, in relation to the negative impact that these outside vessels have on the citys environment. Meanwhile, the heir of Florences famous Medici family, Ottaviano de Medici, has launched a campaign to save Florence from the disastrous effects of mass short-visit tourism. Many heritage professionals believe that the advent in the last decade of large-scale cruise tourism is pushing Venice to an environmental tipping point and undermining quality of life for its citizensVERONA GARDA BIKEIf you wander over the Alps into Austria youll nd mile after mile of dedicated cycle track, all properly laid out and signposted. The people of Verona and Lake Garda have noticed this and are intent on setting up a similar situation in their part of the world. This is a community project with hotels, bike shops, restaurants, and wine and olive oil producers all getting involved. It will take a while for the vision to be realised, but cycling in the region is on the up. www.veronagardabike.com14 ITALIA! December 2013OLIVERS TRAVELSIf youre looking to rent luxury holiday accommodation in Italy, check out Olivers Travels, a new brand that brings together the travel services of Simply Chateau, Simply Caribe, Simply Italy and Stately Escapes. With each property hand-picked by his team, co-founder Oliver Bell promises so much more than those bland, run-of-the-mill holiday rental sites. The new site was launched at the Cond Nast Luxury Travel Fair in London on 7 November 2013. www.oliverstravels.comBERGAMO AIRPORT SECOND WORST FOR SNOOZINGBergamo Airport has been named the second worst in the world for sleeping in. The unwanted accolade is based on a survey for the website Sleepinginairports.net. The survey named the Philippines main Manila airport terminal 1 the worlds worst for a kip for the second year in a row. Calcutta came in third. Sleepinginairports.net advised Bergamo travellers: In short, dont plan on any sleep! If you must spend the night at Bergamo Airport, grab a coffee at the 24-hour caf and read a book until security opens. Once you get through security, youll nd that the gate areas are much nicer and more comfortable.VATICAN BANK RELEASES ANNUAL REPORT FOR FIRST TIMEThe Vaticans bank has published its annual report for the rst time. After recent accusations of corruption, it is a signicant step in an attempt to make the bank more transparent. According to the accounts, last year the bank quadrupled its net prots to more than 86.6m. Its balance sheet showed 4.98bn in assets and 769m in equity funds. Most of the assets were made up of bond and money market investments and also included 41.3m in gold, coins and other precious metals, and a stake in an Italian property investment company. It was also the beneciary of wills, with two properties worth around 2m left to it in 2012. The head of the Vatican Bank, German banker Ernst von Freyberg, said: The annual report seeks to contribute to the transparency which the Catholic Church, our customers, our correspondent banks, our authorities and the public rightfully expect. ICEMAN HAS LIVING RELATIVESOtzi the Iceman has living relatives, researchers have discovered. A team from the Institute of Legal Medicine at Innsbruck Medical University say they have identied 19 males living in Austrias Tyrol region who share a 10,000-12,000-year-old ancestor with Otzi. Found in melting ice in September 1991 by two German tourists hiking through the Oetz Valley in the Alps, Otzi himself is 5,300 years old. DNA was taken from 3,700 men in Tyrol who donated blood. Walther Parson, who led the project, said: These ndings invite us to think differently about relatedness. We usually think about our families when we talk about relatives. However, this data demonstrates that DNA can also be used to trace relatives much further back in time. It was discovered earlier this year that Otzi probably died from brain damage caused by a blow to the head. He may have fallen or been hit by an arrow while climbing.These ndings invite us to think differently about relatedness. DNA can be used to trace relatives far back in timeCHRISTMAS IN LE MARCHELuxury boutique Hotel Leone in Le Marche is offering a four-night Christmas package for all the family which, as well as including meals on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day, offers other activities such as a treasure hunt around the beautiful hill-top town of Montelparo, a quiz night, afternoon tea and a screening of a classic Christmas lm with pizza, popcorn and ice-cream. For further details visit www.hotelleonemarche.com or call Madeline on +39 0734 784041December 2013 ITALIA! 15BLOG.ORTENSIABLU.COMRun by a group of Italians and Americans, this blog is full of food info and tasty recipes, and the posts are accompanied by photos that will leave your mouth watering. Scroll through the blog, improve your Italian food knowledge and also check out their online store for some Italian goodies. Our favourite recipe? The delectable strawberry bruschetta.WWW.LUCULLIANDELIGHTS.COMIlva is the blogger behind this stylish site that has been featured on several best blog lists. The combination of her home life in Tuscany and her Swedish roots creates a delicious culinary mix. Her food ideas, personal anecdotes and fantastic photography make for a charming recipe site that includes (but is not limited to) salads, exquisite baked goods and inspiring vegetable dishes.BLOG WATCHStylish Food BlogsWWW.UNTOCCODIZENZERO.ITThe title of this Italian language blog literally translates as a touch of ginger, but ginger is not all that Torino-based Sandra Salerno likes to cook with! This creative genius has been sharing her culinary tips and recipes since 2005 and has built up a huge following. Click on the ricette tab for a list of recipe categories. TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONTF OOD&P RODUCTS16 ITALIA! December 2013Top 3 ItalianPASTA SHAPESEverybody loves pasta and weve found some speciality pastas that are sure to take your fancy. Learn more about sauces for your pasta shapes in our recipes on page 72. 1Originally from southern Italy, cavatelli are traditionally made by hand and accompanied by sauces made with cream, vegetables, meat or seafood. To make your own cavatelli, you simply roll out your pasta dough and cut it into equal pieces. Then you atten the top with the edge of your knife and roll it to form the curved shape its famous for, often referred to as being like that of a hot dog bun. Why not experiment with different stamps on your cavatelli for that extra bit of elegance?Presenting the best of the latestItalian products on the marketITALIA!STop picks DR VRANJES FRAGRANZA PER AUTOBecause your car needs love and attention too Dr Vranjes has introduced this new range of exclusive, elegant fragrances made with pure essences that have been selected to harmonise with the leather, wood and fabrics of your cars interior. The UK distributor of Dr Vranjes is Senti Ltd of Wimbledon High Street. Visit them in store or call them on0208 947 5179. www.senti.co.uk USE THIS!

THE BETROTHED By Alessandro Manzoni. One of the greatest masterpieces of Italian and indeed world literature has just been published in a new English translation by Everymans Library. And we have six copies to give away. To win one, tell us which acclaimed Italian sculptor nished his autobiography in 1563? Was it?a) Leonardo da Vincib) Benvenuto Cellinic) MichelangeloEmail your answer to italia@anthem-publishing.com with The Betrothed competition as the subject before 31 December 2013. See page 6 for full competition terms and conditions.READ THIS!

GAROFALO PASTA SHOP AT OCADOGarofalo, the quality Italian dry pasta brand, is now available in the unique Garofalo shop at online retailer Ocado. The shop will highlight the range of Garofalo pastas, including regular and speciality cuts, whole wheat organic pasta and childrens organic pasta. Consumers will also be able to view recipes and cooking videos presented by MasterChef nalist Sara Danesin, as well as tips on the best sauces for different pasta cuts. www.pastagarofalo.it/ukTRY THIS!

NATOORA HAMS Prosciutto di Langhirano Pio Tosini is prepared to maintain sweetness while preserving the meat; it is then aged to perfection to ensure it gets the best avour. Order from Natoora020 7237 0346 www.natoora.co.ukEAT THIS!

WIN!3Maccheroni al ferro are long strands of pasta that are delicious served with a hefty rag. They are more than a little ddly to make but theyre denitely worth the extra time and effort. What you do is divide the dough into equal pieces and then roll each piece into a pencil-thin rope. Then you wrap the rope of dough around an iron rod (hence the name, al ferro). Then you simply roll it on a oured surface and carefully slide the pasta off the rod. You dont have to use iron, but thats the way its traditionally done in Calabria.2A fresh pasta typical of Ligurian cuisine, the name corzetti (which is pronounced kurzetti in the Genoese dialect) derives from the silver coins that were used during the Republic of Genoa back in the 13th and 14th centuries. They are a thin round of pasta with an embossed decoration imprinted using a special wooden hand tool. The embossing not only decorates the corzetti but also helps the pasta to hold its sauce, which may be a traditional Ligurian marjoram sauce with pine nuts and butter. THS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THISDecember 2013 ITALIA! 17ITALIAN RECIPES HAMPER WITH ITALIA! DISCOUNTThis festive hamper contains a selection of 12 of the best-selling Italian delicacies from Something Italian, with the additional gift of a 222 Italian Recipes cookery book (in hardback) by the renowned Academia Barilla of Parma. The hamper itself is made from top quality autumn willow, given a natural boiled nish for extra luxury. The normal price is 75. (UK delivery only.) However, as an Italia! reader, you can take advantage of our special discount codes, which are applicable to all products from Something Italian. The current codes, which are valid until 23 December 2013, are: SO3 (spend 30 and get 3 off your bill) and SO15 (spend 100 and get 15 off). To activate your discount, simply enter the applicable code into the voucher box at the top of the shopping cart summary page before checkout. www.something-italian.com.POSITIVELY GOOD FOR YOU INFUSED OLIVE OILSThis garlic, black pepper and balsamic vinegar infused single estate extra virgin olive oil is part of a new range from Positively Good For You that also includes lemon, bergamot, chilli, rosemary and mandarin infused oils all from the Pata Family groves in Calabria. Visit their website for more information about these oils, the philosophy of Positively Good For You, recipe ideas and more.http://positivelygoodforyou.comAPPASSIONATA HANDBAGSDawn Cavanagh-Hobbs writes: A couple of years ago I was introduced to the Ribichini family, who made handbags for Gucci, Prada and Bottega Veneta, and was impressed by the workmanship, combining traditional mastery with breathtaking innovation and style. I bought three handbags and took them back with me to the UK on my next visit. Everywhere I went people stopped me on the street, in restaurants and shops, complimenting my handbag. Where did you buy that fabulous handbag? Ive never seen one like it! It inspired me to sell their handbags directly to the public, at a fraction of the cost! Visit us at www.appassionataboutique.com or contact me directly at dc@appassionata.com for further details. Images from Pasta by Christopher Boswell12345678910111213141516171819202122232425262728293031NE WS18 ITALIA! December 2013 If you are planning a trip to Italy before Christmas, be sure to make the most of the seasonal festivities. The Italians dont do Christmas by halves, and there are all sorts of events going on across Italy this December to celebrate the birth of Jesus ChristEVENTS IN DECEMBER 2013FEAST DAY OF SAN NICOL6 DecemberAbruzzo regionMany places in Abruzzo celebrate San Nicol with a feast day of traditional loaves of bread and taralli, round biscuits that are usually eaten with wine. Meanwhile, at the Basilica of San Nicol in Bari, the clergy lower a ask into the saints tomb to extract myrrh which is then distributed to the faithful around the world and is believed to have the power to produce miracles. SAINT BARBARA DAY4 DecemberPatern, SicilyCelebrated on the slopes of Mount Etna volcano in the Sicilian town of Patern, Saint Barbara Day includes a parade after which a nativity scene is erected. As the patron saint of the town and the protectress of remen and rework makers, Saint Barbara is often called upon to protect the people against Mount Etnas eruptions. FEAST OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION8 DecemberAcross ItalyThe feast of the Immaculate Conception is a national holiday in Italy. A Catholic celebration, the day honours Mary, mother of Jesus, and when she was graced by God to lead a life free of sin. In Rome, the Pope leads a celebration by kneeling in prayer and placing a oral wreath on the statue of the Madonna at the Piazza Mignanelli. OH BEJ! OH BEJ! 7-15 DecemberMilan, LombardyOh Bej! Oh Bej! is a traditional Christmas fair held in the city of Milan each year. The event coincides with the citys celebrations of its patron saint, SantAmbrogio, and will see the streets lined with more than 400 stalls selling everything from owers and food to antiques and crafts.NATALE DI VETRO5 December 6 JanuaryMurano, Venetian LagoonThis annual Christmas event lasts one month and celebrates traditional glassmaking. It begins on the evening of 5 December with a traditional mass of San Nicol, the patron saint of glassblowers, followed by the Tunnel of Lights celebration. Murano is renowned for its stunning glass and this festivity seeks to show it off at its best. LA SCALA OPENING NIGHT7 DecemberMilan, LombardyThe new performance season begins at Milans Teatro alla Scala, Italys most celebrated opera house. Expect a buzz throughout the city as high society descends upon the streets and takes to the theatre for the new seasons productions, including opera and ballet from celebrated artists such as Giuseppe Verdi. The new season opens with Verdis three act opera, La Traviata. www.teatroallascala.org December 2013 ITALIA! 19Please note that the dates of all events are subject to change. If you plan to attend, check events are going ahead before you travel. All attempts are made to present the correct details. AlamyDecember in MilanCHRISTMAS MASS25-26 DecemberRome, LazioMidnight mass with the pope is a golden experience within the Catholic church, but one that requires a very early request. If youre lucky enough to get your ticket then its a special way to spend your Christmas, though if youre unlucky you can still attend and stand in the piazza to watch the ceremony or enjoy Romes other festive events.LA FESTA DI SAN SILVESTRO31 DecemberLike most festivities in Italy, La Festa di San Silvestro, or New Years Eve, begins with a large dinner with family and friends. Traditionally, lentils are eaten, symbolising money and good fortune for the coming year. Celebrations are carried out across Italy but Rome hosts an outdoor music concert and rework display at the stroke of midnight in Piazza del Popolo.UMBRIA WINTER JAZZ28 December 1 JanuaryUmbriaEntering its 21st year, Umbria Winter Jazz festival is back with ve days of rst-class music, tourism and culture. The festival celebrates the rich heritage of history and art by bringing together Orvietos assets for all to experience. With a line-up including some of the worlds most renowned jazz artists, its not to be missed. PISA MARATHONDecember 15Pisa, TuscanyA marathon on the lead up to Christmas may not sound like your idea of fun, but why not join in with the Happy Christmas Family run, where participants dress up like Santa Claus and run through the beautiful streets of Pisa? The full and half marathons also take place, beginning in Miracles Square and ending by the iconic leaning tower of Pisa. www.pisacitymarathon.comSANTA LUCIA DAY13 DecemberSiracusa, SicilySaint Lucia is celebrated in many towns across Italy, but one of the biggest celebrations is held in Sicily. The city of Siracusa has a parade carrying the saint on a golden cofn to the Church of Santa Lucia. A second parade is held on 20 December returning her to the crypt. Thousands of pilgrims descend on Siracusa for the week-long festivities. LA FAGLIA24 DecemberOratino, MoliseLa Faglia is an enormous torch, made entirely of sugar cane, situated in the town square of Oratino. Construction begins in autumn after the harvest and is undertaken by the community, then on Christmas Eve the torch is carried by a procession accompanied by musicians. A unique tradition, the lighting of the torch makes for a magical way to spend your Christmas Eve. 20 ITALIA! December 2013L I VI NGI TAL I A!Small-sized, liveable and attractive, Italy excels in its cities. Whether they be for pleasure or prot, urban properties can make an especially good purchase, says Fleur KinsonCity Apartments

Homes inAll photographs istockItalys utterly idyllic rural areas are rivalled in charm only by their opposite: the nations jewel-like cities. Who could be unmoved by the glories of Venice, Rome or Florence? In architecture, history, lifestyle and personality, Italys cities have an embarrassment of riches. And its not just the big, well-known tourist places; almost every Italian city is appealing in some way. Theres invariably a well-preserved historic centre, often pedestrianized, and full of characterful independent shops. The citizens, meanwhile, are bursting with local pride, ercely loyal to their home city and actively maintaining its uniqueness with distinctive traditions. They foster the same strong sense of community we admire so much in Italys small towns and villages. Best of all, Italian cities are always rather small built on a human scale rather than sprawling on ad innitum. In fact, only two of all Italys cities have a population above the one million mark. These are Rome, home to about 2,600,000 and Milan, with around 1,300,000. Two other cities hover just at or below one million: Turin and Naples (although the latter homes perhaps three million across its wider vicinity). After these four biggies, the rest are tiny. Italy is overwhelmingly a country of small-scale cities, where the pace and quality of life tends to be healthier and more sustainable than in the urban environments of many other countries.INVEST AND ENJOYIn terms of investment, Italys urban properties (like urban properties everywhere) tend to retain their value extremely well because theres rarely a shortage of people looking to buy in a city, as this is where the jobs tend to be. In a city adored by tourists, theres the added bonus of strong holiday rental prospects and Italy abounds with cities loved by tourists. They dont just visit in the summer, either. Italys cities draw tourists all year round. Dont forget that there might be medium-to-long-term lets to consider too; many of Italys cities draw students and international business people who often stay for months at a time. In more ways than one, an urban property proves a strong investment. At the moment, even in Italian cities where property prices have been most resilient in the face of recession, a buyers market currently holds sway. Prices have nally responded to the international economic woes, albeit by dropping only slightly. Youll get some very good deals on urban properties in Italy at the moment. In Romes centro storico always does wellDecember 2013 ITALIA! 21An apartment in Florence will be easy to rent22 ITALIA! December 2013L I VI NGI TAL I A!

PORTA ROMANA, FLORENCEType of property HouseNumber of bedrooms 7Price 1,500,000Location FlorenceContact Casa Travella01322 660988 www.casatravella.comThis spacious seven bedroom house is located in the Porta Romana area of Florence, in an excellent area, within easy access of all amenities and the International School. The property, which is over three oors plus a usable loft area, provides about 270m of accommodation. Lower ground oor: large room divided by glass partition. Ground oor: Five rooms including kitchen, living room, dining and two bathrooms. First oor: Four large rooms, bathroom and two balconies. Loft area: Spacious open area, bathroom, and storage rooms. The property, which also has a good sized garden, would benet from some refurbishment, but provides very spacious accommodation close to the very heart of Florence.If your apartment building has a communal garden or pool, someone will maintain themSmaller cities, like Bergamo, are a viable alternativeVIA ROMANA, ROMEType of property ApartmentNumber of bedrooms 2Price 149,000Location RomeContact Toscana Restoration +39 338 793 5130 info@toscanarestoration.com www.tuscanyhomeandliving.comTown centre living with outside space! Situated in a building dating to the 1500s on the main pilgrim artery from the north to Rome, this apartment has its own independent access through its small patio garden. The entrance door gives onto a useful utility area and to the spacious staircase of the apartment. No difculty getting furniture in! Upstairs there is a roomy, naturally light sitting room with a kitchen area and a slightly separate area that could be used as a study or for a sofa bed. There are two bedrooms and a comfortably sized bathroom. The bedrooms have doors to the roof terrace; perfect for a small table, looking over towards Montalcino.particular, vendors are much more open to offers than they were. Even in the three very priciest tourist cities (Rome, Venice and Florence) you might get a small apartment for as little as 150,000-200,000. Prices might have come down a fraction, but visitor interest in Italian cities is unabated, and its unimaginable that that situation could change.Benetting from holiday rental prospects is not, of course, the whole story. Owning a city property offers practical advantages for your own holiday making. If you plan to make frequent short visits, youll nd that your homes urban location allows you to enjoy maximum visiting time i.e., you can y into the city and swiftly be at your at, rather than spending an hour or two driving to a farmhouse out in the countryside. If youre relocating to Italy, an urban home makes a lot of sense too. Youll rarely feel lonely or bored, youll have all necessary services on your doorstep as you get to grips with how things are done in Italy, and youll get lots of practice in speaking Italian while simultaneously having more access to English-speakers than you would out in the countryside.A LIFE APARTUnless you have a magnicent amount of money to spend, youre unlikely to be buying a whole building in the heart of an Italian city. Youll be buying an apartment. We privacy-loving Brits tend to shudder at the word apartment, but be assured that Italian apartments are extremely well-built for comfortable, long-term living. City-central buildings are often centuries-old, with thick stone walls that guard against neighbourly noise. Verona is very manageable and gives ready access to Lake GardaDecember 2013 ITALIA! 23

London-based Suzette and Richard Colson bought an apartment in the Dorsoduro district of Venice in 2010. They now enjoy year-round holiday rentals on the property, and relish the chance to spend time in the city themselves. Richard is an artist, Suzette explains, and thats how we came to buy the apartment. We were planning a visit to Venice so he could make some studies for an exhibition. I came up with an idea that while we were there I could investigate buying an apartment for holiday rental. I had some money to invest, and buying a at in London didnt seem quite as sensible or anywhere near as exciting. I had done research and seen how Venice was a place where holiday rents were high and reliable year-round. It seemed a very good investment idea, and so it has proven. I call the whole enterprise my Venetian adventure, because it has been wonderful getting to know people in the city and seeing the Venetian way of doing things. We stay around three weeks a year ourselves and ll about 80 per cent of the year with rentals. It has been even more successful than I expected. The rentals have increased year on year.Before we went on that rst trip, I contacted various estate agents, and the only one who replied was Andrea Redivo Zaglia of Properties in Italy, who has been great. He showed us several properties, we made an offer on one in autumn and the purchase was completed in December. The apartment was habitable, but we did a total renovation, with Andrea acting as our project manager. The plaster had to be hacked off, we had a couple of walls removed, we moved the bath and the kitchen, and got rid of one bedroom so we could have a large dining and sitting area. The work took about four months, and it all went smoothly and to schedule. Now we have a beautiful, quite luxurious apartment.The location is good, in an arty part of Venice. Its by the waterfront but not inundated by the crowds you get in the San Marco area. One of the huge pluses to our apartment is the courtyard, in a walled garden a lovely private space where you can enjoy the sun. Its a one-bedroom apartment, but it will sleep up to ve people, as we have two sofa-beds in the living room. Its most ideal for two people. The interior design is elegant and appealing. We spent a lot of money on the materials and furnishings. And its decorated throughout with Richards paintings. It matters to me a lot that all our visitors are comfortable and happy there. www.camasena.comOUR LIFE IN VENICEFurther from the centre, modern apartment buildings in concrete might be less beautiful on the outside, but theyre not necessarily less sound-proof on the inside. Italians dont consider apartments a second-class property option, and builders plan for quiet in their construction. Italian apartments are further enhanced by the frequent inclusion of outdoor spaces such as balconies, patios, terraces and private courtyards.Note that a city apartment is a much lower-maintenance kind of property than a rambling old house out in the sticks. If your apartment building has a communal garden or pool, someone will be there to maintain them for you. Be aware that there is an annual charge, the spese del condominio, paid by all apartment-owners in the same building to cover the cleaning and maintenance of shared spaces such as gardens, corridors and lifts, plus the upkeep of drains, boiler room, roof and so on. Be sure that you know exactly how much the spese del condominio of your apartment is going to be before you commit to a purchase. But remember that the maintenance costs on a rural house are still likely to prove higher in the long run.5624 ITALIA! December 2013L I VI NGI TAL I A!TOP TEN CITIES FOR APARTMENTS123478910Property in Naples is expensive, but the cost of living is relatively lowDecember 2013 ITALIA! 25MILAN: population 1,300,000

2Milan is Italys wealthiest and probably best-dressed city. The capital of nance, fashion, design and media, this is a business-minded metropolis driven by cool-headed workaholics in razor-sharp suits. Sleek, fast-paced Milan might not be physically beautiful (beyond its dazzling duomo), but it offers comfort and quality at every turn. Shopping, nightlife and the arts scene are world-class, and the lovely northern Lakes arent too far away. Milans property is pricey, with one-bed apartments asking 200,000, and two-beds about 320,000. Lots of old palazzi have been converted into stylish ats.

NAPLES: population 1,000,000

6Magnicently set on a breathtaking bay beside a totemic volcano, Naples is an exuberant and thoroughly beguiling city. Its cheerful, free-spirited populace smiles in the face of poverty and laughs at the rules of the road. Ex-pats generally steer clear of Naples, fearing its petty crime and trafc chaos. But its an intensely colourful spot, and handily close to Capri and the Amal Coast. The food is glorious and the cost of living low. Lots of people want to live here, and property is more expensive than you might expect. One-bedroom apartments in nice areas ask around 190,000 on average, two-beds about 260,000. Investors should consider long-term lets to locals.TURIN: population 920,000

4Enjoying relatively fresh urban air at the foot of the Alps, industrious Turin has elegant boulevards, baroque palaces, sleek boutiques and French cuisine. Its an appealing and underrated place, with a lively caf scene and access to great skiing. The outskirts are dominated by characterless apartment blocks, but the centre is attractive. Property prices are quite reasonable. One-bed apartments go for 120,000 on average; two-beds about 200,000. Long-term rentals to southern Italian migrant workers or students are a better bet than short-term lets to tourists.PALERMO: population 690,000

5Noisy, bustling Palermo is Sicilys capital and the islands biggest city, superbly set on a wide bay. Formerly a Maa stronghold, its a much improved and revitalised place these days. The citys architecture is full of exotic elements testament to Sicilys colourful past and there are lots of attractive old properties to be restored. Government grants can cover your restoration costs, but applications can take years to be approved. Apartments are inexpensive, starting at about 1,000 per sqm and rarely going above 2,500 per sqm. One-beds ask less than 100,000.GENOA: population 655,000

3Zesty, colourful Genoa has thrived on seaborne trade for 1,500 years, and its still Italys largest port. Eclectic in food and architecture, this cosmopolitan city stretches for miles along its cluttered shoreline, with the mouth-watering resorts of coastal Liguria never too far away. For property, Genoa can be one of the cheapest spots in Liguria, with larger properties offering particularly good value. One-bedroom apartments ask about 150,000 on average; two-beds about 230,000. Buyers hoping to let might consider long-term tenants, as well as the modest holiday rental market here.BOLOGNA: population 385,000

7Inexplicably overlooked by foreign tourists, Bologna is a lively and prosperous city with a striking red-brick medieval centre. Home to Italys best restaurants and Europes oldest university, Bologna is genial, cultured, well-paced and easy-going. It offers a very high quality of life, but living costs can be substantial. Property prices have risen steadily, and the city is considered a good investment. Long-term rental prospects from students are very good. One-bedroom apartments ask about 170,000 on average, with two-beds about 250,000.FLORENCE: population 381,000

8Stuffed full of exquisite paintings, sculptures and churches, Renaissance Florence is a magnet for lovers of art and architecture. The British have long adored this capital of Tuscany, and theres no shortage of them here, along with other ex-pats. Property prices in Florence are high, having long shown stable, steady growth, but the city is considered a good investment. Tourists visit at all times of the year, and there are also innumerable students to rent to. A one-bed apartment might ask 230,000; a two-bed 350,000. For all its loveliness, note that Florence can be crowded and trafc-choked.VENICE: population 295,000

9Often deemed the worlds most romantic city, Venice is a uniquely beautiful place that never leaves you once youve visited. Crumbling, ood-prone and difcult to live in, it nonetheless draws thousands of rapturous ex-pats and millions of dazzled visitors every year. Property prices are sky-high, but holiday rental prospects superb. Prices are astronomical on the Grand Canal, and lowest near the train and bus stations, in Cannaregio, and in other less-touristy areas and lovely old buildings are generally high-maintenance and prone to damp. Newer developments on the citys periphery can be sleek and well designed. Expect most one-bed apartments to ask at least 300,000. PERUGIA: population 152,000

10Umbrias bewitching capital city is a small place betting this region of tiny settlements lled to the brim with history and elegant architecture. Population-wise, Perugia is only Italys 24th-biggest city, but it deserves inclusion here because it offers such good investment. Its not overpriced, it has lots of tourists, lots of students (both giving good rental prospects), and it gives easy access to glorious surrounding countryside (where property is more expensive than in the city itself). One-beds average around 100,000, two-beds 180,000.ROME: population 2,600,000

1Italys brash, loud, vibrant capital is a condent, thick-skinned place, secure in its achievements and completely unsurprised to receive 12 million visitors a year. For all Romes expense and congestion, a high proportion of ex-pats who settle down here for a while never go home again. Property prices are, as you would expect, very high. Apartments range from 2,500-5,000 per sqm, with one-bedroom places asking about 300,000 on average; two-beds about 400,000. Holiday rental prospects are excellent, as are long-term lets to students or professionals.26 ITALIA! December 2013L I VI NGI TAL I A!

TREQUANDAType of property ApartmentNumber of bedrooms 2-3Price 250,000Location Trequanda, TuscanyContact Toscana Restoration +39 338 793 5130 info@toscanarestoration.com www.tuscanyhomeandliving.comOn the edge of an historic walled Tuscan hill town this property offers the best of town and country living. Built on three oors in the 1930s and updated with care and taste in the last few years the property offers a convenient family home, with space for guests! On the ground oor is a kitchen, dining room and a sitting room with direct access to the private, well established garden, and also a bathroom. On the rst oor are two bedrooms, one with a balcony and bathroom. The top oor comprises a loft room and a bathroom, storage room and a roof terrace with views over olive groves. Town centre shopping and eating are a few minutes away.Refurbishing an apartment before you let it out will greatly increase its desirability Milan, Italys second city, is half the size of RomeCATANIAType of property ApartmentNumber of bedrooms 3Price 340,000Location CataniaContact Casa Travella Ltd 01322 660988 www.casatravella.comSpacious renovated three-bedroom rst oor apartment in the historic centre of Catania and just a few paces from the Viale XX Settembre and Via Umberto, and yet just 3km from the sea. The property provides some 110m of accommodation and consists of the following: entrance and hallway, large living room, kitchen, three bedrooms, bathroom, storage room, two balconies to the front and spacious terrace to the rear with external laundry room. The property which forms part of a small condominium with lift, provides bright and airy accommodation, is centrally heated, has garage space and would make an ideal investment as either a holiday home, or for rental purposes.Many Italian city apartments are offered for sale ready-furnished. This service will save you the headache and backache of hauling sofas and fridges up several oors to your door, as well as the hassle of buying them in the rst place. You might not think thats what you want; you might enjoy the process of furnishing a home to your own taste, but be aware that if you do opt for an unfurnished place, what we might consider xed furniture in the UK and elsewhere is often considered unxed in Italy. In this family-focussed and gastro-minded nation where the kitchen is a semi-sacred place, fridges, cookers, countertops and cupboards are likely to be moved on by the vacating owners to their next property. Dont expect all white goods to automatically be in place when you move in! Be sure to clarify with your agent what exactly an unfurnished propertys kitchen will have.If youre hoping to maximise your urban homes holiday rental prospects, note that certain key features make a property far more appealing to potential visitors. Buy as near to the city centre as you can afford, and try to get some sort of private outdoor space such as a balcony or terrace. Refurbishing an apartment before renting it out will greatly increase its desirability. Dont scrimp too much on materials or labour, as every penny spent improving the place will prove a good investment on subsequent rental returns.THE BIG THREEFor visitors, Italys three most popular cities are Venice, Rome and Florence. Theyre also the three most coveted by foreign buyers. So as you might expect, some of Italys very highest property prices are to be found here along with some of the countrys very best holiday rental prospects. Urban-lovers should denitely consider some of Italys charming and less expensive gems places such as Genoa, Padua, Bologna, Perugia, and Palermo. But elucidating the markets of the big three must take priority here.Crowded, decaying and ood-prone, Venice nonetheless remains one of the worlds most beautiful cities. It has a permanent population of less than 100,000, but receives a staggering 12 million visitors every year. Property prices in Venice have been largely unaffected by the recession, although there is more room for negotiation than formerly. Linda Travella of the long-established agency Casa Travella points out that, It is the www.castravella.comwww.propertiesinitaly.netwww.orenceproperties.co.ukwww.propertyforsalemarche.comwww.realitalia.co.ukwww.tuscanyhomeandliving.comwww.toscanarestoration.comUSEFUL CONTACTSlarge palazzi that have dropped most in value, as buyers are less willing now to take a risk on big expensive projects. Palaces aside, youd currently be looking at paying around 150,000-300,000 for a one-bedroom apartment, 350,000-450,000 for a two-bed and about 400,000-600,000 for a three-bed.Andrea Redivo Zaglia of Properties in Italy advises that, As always, the most expensive areas are the district of San Marco and anything with a view over the Grand Canal. Two extremely charming areas to consider are Dorsoduro and San Polo, which have a similar rental potential to the most expensive areas but lower property prices. As for holiday rentals, a two-bedroom apartment can be rented out for 800-1,000 per week. The average annual return is 6-7 per cent. Properties most requested by rental clients are always those with charming views rooftops or canals and with some outdoor space.ROME AND FLORENCEItalys loud, condent capital is overwhelmingly rich in history from classical treasures to medieval alleyways, baroque fountains to fascist-era monoliths. The city is an irresistible magnet for visitors, who come year-round, and many ex-pats settle down here forever. Property prices are slightly higher even than those in Venice. Linda Travella of Casa Travella says, Romes centro storico always does well although, as in Venice, the very largest properties Property prices in Venice have stood up well to the recessionCOMOType of property ApartmentNumber of bedrooms 2Price 395,000Location ComoContact Casa Travella Ltd 01322 660988 www.casatravella.comThis beautiful and recently renovated two-bedroom city apartment is right in the heart of Como town, in one of the most sought after areas, and forms part of an old palazzo with easy access to all amenities. The spacious apartment, which is located on the second oor with a lift, consists of the following: entrance hall, large lounge with archway leading to a very spacious kitchen/dining room with balcony, two bedrooms, and two bathrooms. The property has a top quality tted kitchen, benets from central heating, has secure parking to the rear and is just 10 minutes walk to both the lake and the station so if you do not want to use the car, public transport and all amenities are within easy reach.MONTALCINOType of property HouseNumber of bedrooms 4Price 365,000Location Montalcino, SienaContact Toscana Restoration +39 338 793 5130 info@toscanarestoration.com www.tuscanyhomeandliving.comA charming, spacious family house 10 minutes from Montalcino. This property is on the edge of a lovely walled medieval borgo (walled village) in the prestigious Montalcino wine area of southern Tuscany. The building offers lovely owing spaces full of daylight and is ideal for a family or even for a small, exclusive B&B. The house is surrounded by its private, secluded, well established gardens and has a discrete double garage (rare in such a setting). The ground oor has a huge wood-oored sitting room with attractive open wood re. This room leads through to the large kitchen/dining room with direct access to the gardens. There are four bedrooms and three bathrooms.December 2013 ITALIA! 27currently offer the biggest discount. Prices have dropped by around 15 per cent for properties over 1m. Outside the centro storico, prices are a little lower. Parioli is a good residential area to consider. Rome is Italys largest city by a long way, and you might consider buying on the outskirts in order to save money. Plenty of holiday makers and students are happy to rent outside the city centre but make sure the nearby transport connections are good!A magnet for lovers of Renaissance art and architecture, Florence also teems with visitors year round. Its property prices are comparable with those of Venice, although the recession seems to have affected prices slightly more in Florence and many homes are a little less expensive now than they were two years ago making now a great time to buy. Martino Bruni of Florence Properties says, Florence is still a good place to invest. Suppose you live in London and wish to invest 200,000. There isnt much you can get for that gure. But you can buy a nice one-bedroom at in Florence and get a decent year-round rental income. !!,, z,1.11, 1,.1z _ .,z .[.z..z..OVER 700 PROPERTIES IN MOST AREAS OF ITALYEmail us at: lindatravella@hotmail.co.ukor call us on +44 (0)1322 660988visit us at: www.casatravella.comFOR EXPERT, PROFESSIONAL AND INDEPENDENT ADVICESPECIALISTS IN ITALIAN PROPERTY SINCE 1987Find the property of your dreams in the beautifulwine region of Asti in Piedmont, Northern Italy.Case in PiemonteTel: 0039 340 143 0787www.caseinpiemonte.comEmail caseinpiemonte@gmail.comCP-610 Panoramic and delicately renovated cascina 380.000CP-520 Beautifully renovated stone cascina 498.000CM-615 Classic panoramic cascina with vineyard 200.000CP-570 Village rustico with stunning panorama 125.000www.propertyforsalemarche.comIts one thing to be able to order dinner in a restaurant, or to have become adept at repeating a few choice idioms, says Sebastian Cresswell-Turner, but its quite another to claim that you speak uent ItalianGAZZETTAITALIA!Fluent ItalianI once knew an English girl in Rome who believed that within a few months of arriving there, she spoke uent Italian. I just picked it up, she would say, referring to the repertoire of vernacular interjections and Mediterranean gestures that she had assembled at random. But for any purpose other than making a supercial impression for a few theatrical moments, her Italian was in fact deplorable.The point of this uncharitable anecdote is that although it is indeed easy to pick up a smattering of Italian, to speak the language well is quite a different matter; whilst at the most sophisticated level, Italian is considerably more difcult than French, with numerous intricate technicalities that cannot possibly be learned except by countless hours of study.So how does one begin? Rather like the girl in my story, I considered myself something of a uent Italian speaker when, aged ten, I learnt the names for the various avours of ice cream that my brothers and I wished to buy when my family went to Tuscany for the summer. Only much later did I make a serious and concerted attempt to learn the language; and this time it was on the London Underground.I was then working in a bank in the City, and my early-morning commute into the ofce should of course have been spent perusing The Financial Times. However, I had acquired a slim volume, written some time in the early 1960s, called Teach Yourself Italian, and this became my bible. Five or ten minutes here, perhaps even twenty minutes there slipping this little manual in and out of my pocket as my journeys allowed, I slowly accumulated the basics.I imagined the author, a woman, to be a spinsterish governess or an old-fashioned school mistress; a gure strict yet benign. There was no cutting of corners. Grammar was there to be mastered, verbs to be conjugated, and vocabulary to be memorised. It was thorough, rigourous and also enjoyable, and the student who worked through the 200-odd pages could not fail to acquire a respectable prociency in Italian although this, as I later realised, was only the beginning.Which brings us back to where we started. Anyone who claims to have simply picked up uent Italian along with a suntan is telling a porky pie. Theres hard work involved.Litaliano correnteVari anni fa conoscevo a Roma una ragazza inglese la quale, pochi mesi dopo di essere arrivata nel Bel Paese, credeva di parlare benissimo litaliano. Lho imparato cos, era solita dire, facendo riferimento al repertorio di intercalari colloquiali e di gesti mediterranei che aveva messo insieme a caso. Ma tranne quando si trattava di fare unimpressione superciale per qualche breve momento teatrale, il suo italiano era francamente pessimo.Con questo aneddoto poco generoso voglio far presente che anche se vero che facile impossessarsi di uninfarinatura ditaliano, parlarlo bene un altro paio di maniche; mentre al livello pi rafnato, litaliano molto pi difcile del francese, trattandosi di numerose regole complicate che si possono imparare solo consacrandoci innumerevoli ore di studi.Dove si comincia, quindi? Un po come la ragazza nella mia storiella qui sopra, io, allet di dieci anni, pensavo di parlare proprio bene litaliano dopo di aver imparato i nomi dei vari gusti di gelato che volevamo comprare con miei fratelli quando andavamo in Toscana per lestate. Passarono molti anni prima che cominciassi a fare uno sforzo vero e disciplinato per imparare la lingua; e questa volta mi trovavo sulla metropolitana a Londra.Lavoravo allepoca in una banca nella City, e ovviamente avrei dovuto consacrare il mio viaggio in ufcio, presto la mattina, ad una lettura diligente del Financial Times. Invece avevo comprato un piccolo volume, scritto allinizio degli anni sessanta, che si chiamava Teach Yourself Italian, e questo tomo divent la mia bibbia. Cinque o dieci minuti qui, magari venti minuti l slandolo dalla tasca della giacca come permettevano le esigenze del viaggio, accumulai man mano le basi. Lautore, una signora, si presentava nella mia mente come una governante zitella o una maestra di scuola allantica; un personaggio severo ma anche benevolo. Il suo approccio era tuttaltro che approssimativo. La grammatica si doveva padroneggiare; i verbi si dovevano coniugare; i vocaboli si dovevano imparare a memoria. Insomma, un metodo meticoloso, rigoroso ed anche gradevole, e chiunque studiasse bene le due centinaia di pagine non poteva mancare di acquisire una padronanza rispettabile della lingua italiana anche se mi resi conto, dopo, che ero solo allinizio.Il ch ci riporta al nostro punto di partenza. Chi sostiene di aver acquisito un ottimo italiano cos, forse insieme ad una bella abbronzatura estiva, sta dicendo una bugia. Invece, ci si deve lavorare sodo.S P E AKI TAL I A!December 2013 ITALIA! 29THE AUTHORSEBASTIAN CRESSWELL-TURNER is a freelance writer, translator and uent Italian speaker who lived in Rome for many years. His travel articles have appeared in The Guardian, The Telegraph, The Times and The Mail, plus many more.Clockwise from top left: Presepi on sale at Piazza Navona; Christmas at Vertecchi; festive visitors at Piazza Navona market; Castroni panettone; sun-drenched tables outside Caff della Pace; Hannah with the produce on display in a tiny bar in Testaccio; street artists above the Spanish Steps; chocolates in the window at Giolitti; tree at Piazza del Popolo30 ITALIA! December 2013DI S COVE RI TAL I A!Standing at the top of the Spanish Steps, bathed in the golden Italian sunlight, I can see bustling via dei Condotti opening out in the shade below me as a vibrant backdrop to Berninis Barcaccia sinking boat statue. Standing alongside me, street artists offer caricatures to tourists; painters sell their canvases above me, where they get to enjoy the view as well as the sun that eludes the designer shops below when the grand alleyways and tall shops cast them in shadow. This is a common scene for anyone visiting Rome, but this is the rst time I have seen the artists in thick coats and hats, and the streets draped with grand, illuminated chandeliers made of fairy lights. Its December, and I am nally testing my theory that surely it must be more economical, and certainly more enjoyable, to do my Christmas shopping on a weekend in Rome rather than braving the UK high street. Its a good idea, in theory, and I am certainly looking forward to putting it into practice. If I stick to the designer boutiques of via dei Condotti for all my gifts, it certainly wont be cheaper, though, so after buying just a couple here, as well as a few paintings from the artists above, and stopping to admire the Barcaccia without its throng of summer tourists, its time for a refreshment break. A visit to the Italian capital in December nds the streets alive with lights and celebration, as Hannah Bellis nds out. She also tests if it is cheaper than a UK shopping spreeFestive Rome48 HOURS IN Photography Hannah BellisDecember 2013 ITALIA! 31NEAPOLITAN PRESEPI IN ROMEAbove the Forum, visit the Church of Saints Cosma and Damiano. Inside youll nd one of the largest nativity scenes in the country, originally commissioned by Charles II of Naples and bought by Rome in the 1930s. The scene shows the Neapolitan tradition of including people from everyday life alongside the Holy Family. You can read more about this in our feature on page 43.DONT MISSMUST VISIT SHOPSOne of my favourite things about Italy, regardless of the season, is the abundance of small independent stores and eateries that exist, survive and even thrive, alongside the big brands and names I really hope this never changes. At Christmas, each of these small stores has its own special Christmas produce and display to offer. Even the lowliest bar will sell a few choice Christmas titbits, displayed with pride alongside the napkin dispensers and coke fridges. Presumably, this is so patrons can dispense with Christmas shopping altogether and pick up what they need along with their regular espresso or most likely something stronger.But it is the food emporiums of Rome where I intend the bulk of my purchasing. Fortunately, most of my friends and family appreciate gourmet food gifts just as much as I do, and by purchasing in Italy I can get them authentic Italian gifts that you often cant nd in the UK. My rst point of call is Pasticceria Giolitti, on via Ufci del Vicario. Its a great place to buy ice cream as well as gifts to take home, with myriad cakes, pastries and chocolates to tempt you. Essential vocab for buying by weight: un etto is 100g, and the plural is etti if you are buying multiples of 100g. For pre-packed goods that you can pick up and pay for, try Castroni there are 11 branches around the city and I could easily spend more than an hour in time, and much more in coin, in any one of them.STATIONERY STOPReally good, stylish stationery makes a great gift for men and women. I am a bit of an addict and I know I am not alone in this! Il Papiro in Rome is a great point of call for exquisite writing materials and hand-decorated paper objects and staff so snotty I could practically be in London. They also sell lovely wax seals, leather goods, pens made with Venetian glass, as well as stunningly beautiful wrapping paper. Vertecchi, on via della Croce, is a totally different kettle of sh. Here they offer some beautiful stationery, their prodotto artigianale themed around artists sketches of Rome. At Christmas time the store turns itself into a winter wonderland, with piles upon piles of baubles, festive houses and decorations, and GIOLITTI

1Via Ufci del Vicario 40+39 06 699 1243www.giolitti.itThis ice cream shop also sells a vast number of cakes, biscuits and sweet treats by weight, all elegantly wrapped to paper trays to make artisan gifts. You need to order by weight, un etto is 100g, due etti is 200g, etc.CASTRONI

2Via Frattina 79+39 06 699 21 903www.castroni.itThere are no fewer than 11 branches of this fabulous Italian food emporium around Rome. This is the biggest, but see the website for full details of others. Each is a treasure trove of Italian foodstuffs, all pre-packed and perfect for planes and presents.IL PAPIRO

3Via del Pantheon 50+39 06 679 5597www.ilpapirorenze.itThe marbleized paper objects you can buy here are beautiful, and showcase hand-decorated paper at its very best. Youll also nd Venetian glass objects, pens, pencils inks and accessories. Il Papiro is a Florence-based chain of stores but there are two outlets in Rome, and the company now also has an outlet at Covent Garden, as well as shops in New York, Palm Beach and Melbourne.VERTECCHI

4Via della Croce 70+39 06 332 2821www.vertecchi.comThere are four of these stationery stores across Rome, all still owned and operated by the Vertecchi family. As well as original stationery products made in Italy, they sell branded pens, party items, ne art supplies and in December a staggering display of Christmas merchandise.BARTOLUCCI

5Via dei Pastini 96-99+39 06 6919 0894www.bartolucci.comBartolucci is a family-run company that specialises in wood-carving. Stop and browse through the artisan wooden toys and games made and sold here for a gift you wont nd already in the toy box. LITTLE BIG TOWN

6Via Cesare Battisti 120+39 06 6992 4226 www.littlebigtown.itThis giant toy shop is the biggest in Italy and covers four oors. Be prepared to queue in the later days of December.Gourmet treasures lure you into Castroni

32 ITALIA! December 2013DI S COVE RI TAL I A!Mercedes festive bling on via dei Condotti LAYERS OF RELIGIONVisit the Basilica of St Clement to see the two previous structures that were on the site, dating from the mid-4th century on the rst level down and the 1st century on the second level down. The present day church is also richly decorated, with a stunning 12th century mosaic and some of the marble originally used in the early Christian basilica below. Entry costs 5. www.basilica sanclemente.comDONT MISS much more besides but still at a quality that means you may want to buy it!As for Christmas merchandise you may not want to buy, there is plenty of that to be found at the festive market at Piazza Navona. But alongside the brightly-lit festive bling and cuddly toys, there are some exceptional artisan presepe gures on display here, as well as jewellery, scarves, gloves and other gifts. The market is open till 1am and really has to be seen to be believed the carousel on site is still carrying children on it when I visit after 11pm. The place is abuzz and its a real celebratory atmosphere. The children love it but where to buy a gift for children that arent there?You are spoilt for choice by toy shops in Rome too, all with very different offerings to the usual suspect brands you see in the UK. Just off Piazza Navona youll nd Al Sogno, which is charmingly traditional, but venture further aeld to downtown Rome to explore Bartolucci, on via dei Pastini, for hand-carved wooden toys without a hint of moulded plastic in sight. For its size alone, you are sure to nd what you are looking for at Little Big Town, the largest toyshop in Italy with over four oors of toys and games on offer be prepared to queue in the run up to Christmas, something I am not accustomed to seeing the Italians do.As well as on via dei Condotti, where we began, youll nd other good shops to explore around Piazza del Popolo, which is a great square to stop for a coffee or a bite to eat too. There are designer stores here, as well as quality independent boutiques and leather goods stores that are perfect for window shopping and wont break the bank if you see something you want to buy for somebody. To maximise your Christmas It is the food emporiums of Rome whereI intend the bulk of my purchasingRoast chestnuts sweeten the airWHERE TO STAYSCALINATA DI SPAGNI

7Piazza Trinit dei Monti 17+39 066 793 006www.hotelscalinata.comThis great value hotel in a fantastic location near the Spanish Steps is great for families, as it can offer triple and quadruple rooms as well as a family suite, some of which have their own private balcony or courtyard. Prices for double rooms start at 110 per night, with family rooms available from 190.REGINA HOTEL BAGLIONI

8Via Vittorio Veneto 72+39 064 211 111www.baglionihotels.comThe area around via Veneto is where the great and the good used to congregate in the glamorous 1930s, and that chic sophistication is reected at the ve-star Baglioni Hotel. With rooms and suites decorated in all manner of different styles from that era to the present day, all have a high quality nish with original furniture. Double rooms start from 285, junior suites from 600.PALAZZO MANFREDI

9Via Labicana 125+39 067 759 1380www.palazzomanfredi.comThis intimate ve-star hotel is bang next door to the Colosseum and the views from some of the rooms and the dining room terrace are fantastic. The rooms are small but stylish and comfortable. This is my home away from home when I am spoiling myself on a visit to Rome, as I adore breakfasting overlooking the Colosseum. Double rooms are available from 320.HOTEL DINGHILTERRA

10Via Bocca di Leone 14+ 39 066 99 811hoteldinghilterra.warwickhotels.comSituated near to the shopping district of via dei Condotti, the Hotel dInghilterra is an elegant institution set in a 17th century palazzo right in the centre of Rome and just a stroll away from the Spanish Steps. The dcor is traditional with period furniture throughout. Double rooms start from 235.TREVI B&B ROMA

11Via del Lavatore 83+39 06 69380944www.bbtreviroma.comNestled away near the Trevi fountain, this modern budget B&B is nished to a very high specication. The rooms are clean, comfortable and ensuite. It boasts internet access, multi-lingual staff and an airport transfer service. Double rooms are available from 89.

December 2013 ITALIA! 33Illuminated Piazza Navona JusticePalaceAugustoMausoleumQuirinalePalaceBorgheseGallery & MuseumRomanNational MuseumTerme di DioclecianoTerminiStationBarberiniPalaceBraschiPalacePantheonDoriaPalaceFarnesePalaceVeneziaPalaceCapitolinoMuseumOperaTheaterS. MariaMaggorieColosseoVittorio Emanuelle IINational MonumentMassenzioBasilicaTrinitdei MontiVilla GiullaNational MuseumModern ArtNational GalleryForoRomanoFontanadi TreviTevereTevereIsolaTiberinaPza.CavourPiazzadellaLibertPiazza delPopoloPiazza diSpagnaPiazzaAlessandriaPle.BrasilePza.NicosiaPza. deiCinquecentoPiazzaIndipendenzaPiazza dellaReppublicaPiazzaSallustioPiazza D.OrologioPiazzaNavonaPiazza D.RotondaPza.FarnesePiazza deiQuirinalePiazzaManfredoFantiPiazza VittorioEmanuelePiLgo.MagnanapoliPiazzaledi Porta PiaPiazzaBuonesAiresPiazzaleFlaminioilizieLungotevereMelliniLungotevereinAugustaLungot. CastelloLungotevere Tor di NonaLungotevere della FarnesinaLungotevere D. TebaldiVia del TritoneVia Del CorsoCorsodItaliaVia XX SettembreViaVittorioVenetoVia Giovanni GiolittiVia MerulanaVia LabicanaVia dei Fori ImperialVia CavourVia NazionaleVia delQuirinaleV.Luisadi SavoiaVia Principe AmadeoPonteGaribaldiSangalloViale Reginangotevered.ArmiVia Luigi SettembriniViaSalariaLungotevereAventinPortodiRipaGrandvereVia FlaminiasV. CondottiLungoteverArn.DaBresciaVialedelMuroTortoPiazzaVeneziaPiazzadellEsquilinoVia CavourV. BabuinoCorsoVittorioEmanueleVillaTorloniaVilla BorgheseGaloppatoioMonteEsquilinoMonteCapitolinoMontePalatinoooVilla Giulla Villa Giulla Villa Giulla Villa Giulla Villa GiullaNation on onal M al M al Museum useum useum useum useumMo Mo Mo Modern Art rn ArtNNNati ati ational Gallery al Gallery al Gallery al Gallery al GalleryenzaoooPi Pi PiPi Pi Pi Piazza azza azzailiziLuLuLuLuLungngngoteverotevererulanerulanerulanaSSaangggalllloViale nangooottteeettVia LuiLuiLuigi gi gi vvvvvveeeennntttiiinnnpaGGrrraaannndddevevvrViVia a 12345678910111213141516ICE SKATINGAlongside the Christmas lights, many open air ice rinks pop up around the city in the run up to Christmas. Usually it is free to enter the ice rink, and you pay to hire your skates or bring your own. The most reliable one as they move around every year is at the Castel Sant Angelo, which also hosts a small Christmas market, but you will nd other rinks all across the city.DONT MISS budget, and to avoid the wet December weather in Rome, head to Testaccio market in via Galvani. As well as many traditional food stalls, go beyond the tripe sandwiches and youll nd a whole row of shoes, belts and leather good for sale at market prices. It is open Monday to Saturday, from 6am to 3pm.So have I saved money by doing my shopping in Rome? The few designer gifts I have bought seem to have been, typically, a few euros cheaper than they would have been had I bought them in the UK. Theres no denying that I have also bought some great gifts that I would not have found on the UK high street, but putting this list together, I have seen that most of the shops do take online orders and ship internationally. So really, even with me ying with easyJet, I could probably have done this cheaper from behind my computer. But of course, I never would have. And as well as gifts for others, the trip has provided me with WHERE TO EATTRATTORIA OTELLO ALLA CONCORDIA12Via della Croce 81+39 66 791 178www.otello-alla-concordia.itEven though their menu is in English and Italian this is an authentic place full of Italians who are not looking to rip you off. It offers a traditional Roman menu and you pay just 12 for a bottle of house wine. It is set off a lovely quiet courtyard, so tucked away from the bustle of the city. You need to exit the restaurant to nd the toilets in the courtyard!Price range CAFF DELLA PACE

13Via della Pace 3-7www.caffedellapace.itI love sitting outside this ivy-clad bar, whatever the time of year, though fortunately, even December is usually pretty clement in Rome as long as its not raining. They serve great cocktails and inexpensive aperitivi here as well as fabulous hot chocolate. Be here by 7pm to get a table outside the square may be quiet but the caff certainly is not. Cocktails cost around 8.Price range BUCATINO

14Via Luca della Robbia 84/86, Testaccio+39 065 746 886www.bucatino.comThis is a little off the beaten track as its located in the old meatpacking district, but it is worth making the detour to for the great traditional and inexpensive lunch menu you can enjoy here. It still offers a traditional antipasti buffet, which you rarely see in Rome any more. Great value at lunchtime. Closed on Mondays.Price range DON CHISCIOTTE

15Piazza Navona 103-105+39 0668217 140www.gruppodonchisciotte.comDespite its prestigious location, this ristorante/pizzeria/bar serves good value food, offering a selection of fresh sh on the menu alongside the pizza.Price range CANOVA

16Piazza del Popolo 16-17+39 063 612 231www.canovapiazzadelpopolo.itThis would be my pick of the spots to stop for a coffee or a bite in the beautiful Piazza del Popolo. Sit outside to enjoy the view, or get a better price on the set menus by eating in the contemporary interior inside or in their interior courtyard.Price range

34 ITALIA! December 2013KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES (full meal per person, not including wine)

Up to 25

26-50

More than 50BY PLANE You are spoilt for choice with ights to Rome. You can y there direct from all the London airports, including City, as well as Birmingham, Bristol, Dublin, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds Bradford, Manchester and Newcastle. See our ight guide on page 94 for full details of the operators. From the airport you can take the Leonardo Express Train to Rome Termini, which runs every 30 minutes from track 24. The journey takes 30 minutes and costs 11. To connect with the metro at Tiburtina Station or at Ostiense Station the train costs 5.50.GETTING THEREa wonderful Christmas gift to myself a fabulous weekend in Rome where I can spend money guilt free,