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Humanities & Arts Requirement Humanities and Arts Project Title Page An Ethnographic Study of Zellige Craftsmen By: Ruchita Choksey Humanities and Arts Course Sequence HU 3900 Morocco Inquiry Seminar C Term HU 3999 Moroccan Film in Context HU 2999 Moroccan Arabic AB 1532 Elementary Arabic I AB 1531 Elementary Arabic II AB 2542 Culture of Arabic Speaking Countries Presented to: Professor Rebecca Moody Department of Humanities & Arts Term C, 2020 HU 3900 Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of The Humanities & Arts Requirement Worcester Polytechnic Institute Worcester, Massachusetts
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Microsoft Word - Ruchita Choksey, An Ethnographic Study of Zellige Craftsmen.docxAn Ethnographic Study of Zellige Craftsmen
By: Ruchita Choksey
HU 3900 Morocco Inquiry Seminar C Term
HU 3999 Moroccan Film in Context
HU 2999 Moroccan Arabic
AB 2542 Culture of Arabic Speaking Countries
Presented to: Professor Rebecca Moody
Department of Humanities & Arts
The Humanities & Arts Requirement
Worcester, Massachusetts
Abstract: Zellige is a well-known traditional Moroccan craft, however, there is a gaping lack of documentation about the people who actually make it. Through this paper, I aim to address this issue through ethnographic fieldwork focused in Fes and Rabat, Morocco, through which I bring to life the stories of the workers and connecting the pieces of their knowledge and experience.
Acknowledgements
There were so many people who contributed to the creation and accumulation of this knowledge. I would like to thank Professor Rebecca Moody for being my advisor and guide, Yassine,
Fatima, and Adil for coming on multiple trips to workshops as my translators, and Abdulilah, Azdil, Mouhssin, Hasan, Abdul, Driss, Houssam, Yassine, Omar, Abdula, and Mohammed for their information, stories, and tea. Good luck for the future and inshallah may our paths cross
again.
The Many Pieces of Zellige: An Ethnographic Study into the lives of modern-day Moroccan zellige craftsmen
By Ruchita Choksey
(Left) Zellige found in the wall of a home, (Right) Zellige seen at the Hassan II Mosque
Morocco has captivated travelers for years, drawing in intrigued stares from all over the
world with zellige, the beautiful mosaic artwork that has a distinct Moroccan spell. Zellige is a
central pillar in Moroccan crafts, with its history beginning even before the foundation of the
country. This art form takes years to master and has many different aspects that combine to
create beautiful brilliant patterns. The torch bearers of the craft faced a renaissance under Hassan
II1 in the 1980s, but are now reportedly facing a decline in need and demand. Moroccan
craftsmen of zellige have learned how to adapt with the times from the effects of both
globalization and the ever-shifting art industry. Through my research and fieldwork, I aim to
1 The previous King of Morocco. So far in Morocco’s independence there have been three kings: Mohammed V from 1957-1961, Hassan II from 1961-1999, and the current King Mohammed VI from 1999.
document and learn about the current realities of being a zellige craftsman2 in modern day
Morocco. There have been many changes to zellige in the past years, from the economy to
globalization to the monarchy. However, even with how prevalent zellige is in Moroccan society
very little is written about the workers.3 Within these seven weeks I aim to begin to weave art
and anthropology to learn about the lives of these workers that can be found in every city in
Morocco.
While I will in no way be able to learn everything there is to zellige and the lifestyle
associated with making it, I hope to begin the process of filling the gaps and bringing the
complicated mosaic of globalization, change, economy, family and zellige to life for future
records. Throughout this paper I will compare what is previously documented regarding the
industry and what workers from Rabat and Fes have personally believed to be their experiences
from working in the field4. First I will briefly discuss the demographic and general background
of the people interviewed, and then dive into their family relations, the effects of the monarchy,
and the changes that have both happened to zellige and what the artists would like to see in the
future for the industry. These craftsmen have dedicated their being to zellige, so through this
paper I hope to bring recognition to the many different aspects that go into their lives.
When I tell people about my research they get confused. To give some perspective, at the
time of this paper I am an undergraduate mechanical engineering student studying at a tech
2 Through my fieldwork I have only encountered men doing traditional zellige, which is the focus of this paper. I have seen women paint zellige which I will briefly talk about, but the main artists discussed in this paper are all men hence the gender exclusive term. 3 While there is some work that can be found on the numerology and process of zellige, there is next to nothing available about the workers themselves. 4 All the interviews I arranged required the help of a translator, and is why there are little to no direct quotes in this paper but rather paraphrasing and summaries.
school in the United States. And I am doing a humanities-based research project in Morocco.
These two do not generally add up. But for me they make sense. My family always loved the arts
and I am no exception; I have been dancing since I was 3 and learned a couple of musical
instruments. I always loved working with my hands and tried (and enjoyed but did not succeed)
in ceramics, painting, and pastels. We loved the arts and I always appreciated anyone who had
the ability to create beautiful things. Personally, I never felt creative enough for the arts, and I
was much to practical of a middle-schooler, so I switched my focus to another type of hands-on
creation: engineering. I love engineering so much and have enjoyed my time so far, but when
offered the chance to research in Morocco I accepted in a heartbeat. Little did I know just how
much I would come to love this country and the ethnographic work of zellige workers.
Throughout my time researching I was able to learn about their lives, make jokes, and bypass the
language barrier through pure genuine interest and kindness from both sides. I have gotten to
know these workers so through this paper I will try to bring to life the quiet, sweet, charismatic,
humble, talented and dedicated friends I have come to make along my journey.
Morocco has always caught the wandering eyes from all over the world with zellige as a
motivating factor of awe even in the 20th century. In the article “Manufacturing Exotica: Edith
Wharton and Tourism in French Morocco, 1917-20” Robert Hunter includes a quote from
Wharton saying that while the patterns may be repetitive “the effect upon the eye is not
monotonous, for a patient artist has infinitely varied the combinations of pattern and
juxtaposition of color.”5 Hunter goes on to explain how Edith Wharton’s articles and book
5 F. Robert Hunter, “Manufacturing Exotica: Edith Wharton and Tourism in French Morocco, 1917-20” Middle Eastern Studies 46, no. 1 (2010), accessed November 13, 2019, https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00263200903432266
strongly influenced a lot of the tourism travel to Morocco and how she would write pages upon
pages about its architecture and designs found. Edith Wharton is actually considered the person
who fueled the interest and image of Morocco as her stories and articles romanticized the
country as a natural place frozen in time. According to Hunter “Few previous travel writers,
however, possessed the imagination, acute powers of observation, and masterful writing skills of
Edith Wharton.”6 Wharton’s words came at a prime opportunity as the country was expanding its
tourism industry, making the already beautiful descriptions immortalized as the image of
Morocco.
In another article, “The Changing Face of Morocco under King Hassan II”, Jennifer
Roberson talks about how Hassan II decided to use the arts to make Morocco unified and under a
single image. He believed that by channeling a nationalist spirit through traditional handicrafts,
Morocco would be able to knit together under a single modern identity. At the time Hassan II
started his movement, which lasted from the 1960s till his death in 1999, many other countries
and architects were trying to mimic a modern western approach. This made his monuments stand
out even more as beautiful refreshing images of Moroccan glory. Looking back at Hassan II’s
movement, Roberson notes that his first major project, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, “…
was officially hailed as one that brought about a renaissance in Moroccan art and expressed the
national aspirations of the Moroccan people, as well as their leader (Mohammad V) and their
native craftsmen.”7 Under his initiative, the zellige world flourished with grand commissions and
6 F. Robert Hunter, “Manufacturing Exotica: Edith Wharton and Tourism in French Morocco, 1917-20”Middle Eastern Studies 46, no. 1 (2010), accessed November 13, 2019, https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00263200903432266
7 Jennifer Roberson, "The Changing Face of Morocco under King Hassan II." Mediterranean Studies 22, no. 1 (2014), accessed November 13, 2019, https://www.muse.jhu.edu/article/547158.
interests peaked. In contrast, today these craftsmen are left trying to make their way in a world
that no longer treats their craft as gold and have had to adapt and learn to navigate these new
waters.
Zellige of the (Left) Hand of Fatima and (Right) Pillars at Hassan II Mosque.
The history of zellige is one that is difficult to trace. The art style is native to North
Africa and is generally agreed to have Moroccan origins as the oldest forms of the art have been
documented there. Fragments of old zellige depictions have been found dating all the way back
to the twelfth century Almohad dynasty.8 The repeating patterns found in zellige are a style
called arabesque, which is a way to show zellige’s Islamic nature. The repetition symbolizes
8 Ann Shafer, “No man is an island: globalisation and resilience in the Fez zillj tradition,” The Journal of North African Studies 24, no. 5 (2018) 758-785, accessed November 13, 2019, https://www-tandfonline-com.ezpxy-web-p- u01.wpi.edu/doi/full/10.1080/13629387.2018.1483877
different traits, such as peace and tranquility, depending on the pattern. The overall intricate
designs themselves are passed down through the workshops. At the same time, these patterns
also evolve. In “No Man is an Island: Globalisation and Resilience in the Fez zillj tradition”
Ann Shafer notes that patterns are in an ever-shifting state, stating “[…] young craftsmen are
designing new patterns at a greater rate than before and that some highly complex patterns are
being forgotten, but the core patterns are still memorised and have remained the staple of the
trade, it seems, since its inception.”9
There are two main parts to creating a zellige masterpiece. The first process is preparing
the tiles. All clay used for the tiles is from Morocco, making zellige 100% Moroccan-made.
Workshops will either tend to have agreements with companies that sell the clay or will get a
certain amount guaranteed from the government. Next, someone has to lay the clay out and
prepare it so that it can be hardened into tiles. They will then cut the tiles to match what is
needed for the current zellige that is being worked on. The process of cutting tiles is one that
many people dedicate years towards through apprenticeships. Someone uses a model of the piece
to sketch out multiples on the clay tile, and then the tile is carefully broken down a line to isolate
each piece. In order to carve, the tile is leaned against a ledge that comes out of the stand they
use and a pickax is used to carefully cut against the piece of tile that is touching the ledge,
leading the piece to break on the line. The second part is assembling the design. The tiles must be
placed next to each other in the correct placement face-down. Then, an adhesive, like concrete, is
9 Ann Shafer, “No man is an island: globalisation and resilience in the Fez zillj tradition,” The Journal of North African Studies 24, no. 5 (2018) 758-785, accessed November 13, 2019, https://www-tandfonline-com.ezpxy-web-p- u01.wpi.edu/doi/full/10.1080/13629387.2018.1483877
applied once the whole image is finished, binding all the tiles together.10 This part of the process
is difficult because you cannot see what image you are creating; it is as if you are putting
together an all-white puzzle.
(Above) Once the tiles are laid down, they are put in a frame and then cemented over.
The craftsmen of zellige get into the trade through apprenticeships that tend to last around
ten years and start on average around the mid-teen years. Contrary to popular belief, most people
who choose to apprentice are not doing it to keep up a family business but rather that it was the
future they desired. In the past the zellige industry was considered a stable one11, so dedicating
one’s life to a part of the zellige making process was an acceptable decision.
Previously the monarchy has tried to change the artisan sector, which has strongly
impacted the zellige craft in different ways. The monarchy is trying to increase participation in
10 Ann Shafer, “No man is an island: globalisation and resilience in the Fez zillj tradition,” The Journal of North African Studies 24, no. 5 (2018) 758-785, accessed November 13, 2019, https://www-tandfonline-com.ezpxy-web-p- u01.wpi.edu/doi/full/10.1080/13629387.2018.1483877 11 It was a stable industry because of all the structures Hassan II issued, so there was always work in zellige.
handicrafts by offering free craft education12. Through this education, the government hopes to
keep traditional crafts alive while also keeping a part of the workforce in Morocco. There is also
an aim to create an official label for authentic zellige places called the National Moroccan
Handicraft Label. However, documentation on the true number of zellige workshops that have
gone through the paperwork to get the label is hard to find. In regard to the process of making
zellige, the current king Mohammed VI has pushed for more environmentally-friendly kilns,
which has received a lot of backlash from zellige factories and workshops. According to the IQP
report “Preservation and Progress: The Socio-Economic and Environmental Effects of
Modernizing Zillij Production” from 2012 the craft has been perfected over many years so that
the tiles are strong and bright. The new kilns that are being pushed by the government
supposedly create lower quality tiles where the tiles “…are brittle, the colors are dull, and the
glazes become rippled.”13 Because of the low quality tiles produced from these government-
supported kilns there is much backlash from the zellige industry.
Through my research, I aim to document and learn about the current realities of being a
zellige craftsmen in modern day Morocco. There have been many changes to zellige in the past
years, from the economy to globalization to the monarchy. However, even with how prevalent
zellige is in Moroccan society, very little is written about the workers. Hopefully in these seven
weeks I am able to get different perspectives and see the many pieces that make up zellige.
12 Hamlin, Cassandra Lynne, Helei Duan, John Joseph Amante, and Mikhail Yuryevich Morozov. “Recommendations Toward Expanding the Scope of the Zellij Craft Industry,” n.d. 13 George Tucker Gette, Micah L. Flock, Stephen Philip Oliveira. “Preservation and Progress: The Socio-Economic and Environmental Effects of Modernizing Zillij Production”
My fieldwork was primarily located in Fes, at the Art D’Argile workshop and Poterie de
Fes workshop. In addition, I also interviewed a few people in assorted local workshops in the
Rabat medina. The demographic of the 10 main craftsmen14 ranged from 26 years old to 56 and
were all men15. From multiple interviews and observations, I learned that there were
contradictions from what was written in literature to reality, such as the worker’s perspectives of
the current state of the field and of the succession of zellige, which will be discussed throughout
the paper. There is so much to the lives of the workers, but this paper is focusing on the general
background of the interviewed workers, and then dive into how they started their path of zellige
and their families. Branching outward I will talk about how they viewed the effects of the
changing monarchy and the current atmosphere towards zellige, ending with the changes they
want to see in the future to the field of zellige. I want to bring lives of the zellige workers out of
the dark workshops and into the light.
The main Moroccan zellige industry hub is located in Fes, the old city already known for
its history and crafts. All of the craftsmen I talked to, even those who were not working in Fes,
were from Fes, either from being born in or by coming to the city with their family from a young
age. They ranged in age from 26 to 56, with there being a concentration around the late 20s and
30s and only a couple workers in their 50s16. All the workers from the Fes workshops lived in the
medina, but the exact location varied. Some lived in the old medina while others lived further on
14 Because all of the data gathered were from men and I had only seen men doing the traditional zellige jobs, I will often be using gender-exclusive language such as “craftsmen” 15 The only seen instance of women working in the zellige shop is if they painted the designs onto pottery tiles, which is not exactly zellige but rather normal ceramic work. 16 I would like to stress that this is not a general assessment of all zellige workers; it is just the demographic of the people I was able to interview.
the outskirts near where the zellige workshops were17. The majority of the workers started zellige
at a young age, with the earliest starting at 7 years old and the latest at 18. Some of the workers
who started at a young age first apprenticed and learned from those around them, later moving
on to becoming qualified workers.
As a result of the early start to their careers, the majority of the workers had only finished
some school before going into their career, and very few of them had done any jobs prior18. Half
of the people interviewed had stayed in the same workshop their whole life, while the rest moved
around different workshops around Fes. From the interviews, I noticed that if the workers had
apprenticed in a workshop before starting to work, they were more likely to have remained in
that workshop for the majority or all or their career.
There was a general agreement among the workers that if you didn’t start the craft at a
young age, there was no way one could eventually master it. The interviewed craftsmen had jobs
at different stages of the zellige making process, from drawing the tiles, to cutting them and then
to laying the tiles. They all started out by drawing the tiles and then moved to cutting them. From
here, some people chose to specialize in cutting tiles and would remain in their job, while others
eventually progressed to laying the tiles. Everyone worked 8 hours a day for 6 days a week19.
Those whose job was cutting the pieces got paid per piece and the amount varied based on the
size and complexity of the piece, whereas if you were to be laying tiles you got paid the same flat
rate every week. According to the craftsman in Rabat, when he was apprenticing, he only got
17 As mentioned previously, the zellige workshops in Fes were moved from the main medina to the outer edge by the king. 18 The jobs that were done, if any, were more manual labor but still in crafts, such as tailors or shoemakers. 19 They could either take Friday, which is the holy day for Muslims, or Sunday off.
around 5 dirham a week, and once he started officially working it became 60 dirham per week.
Later in 1986-87 when he was a more polished worker, he started earning 60 dirham per day20.
All of these different workers are mixed together and create a friendly dynamic in the
workshops.
To be a professional in zellige you have to know the theory behind the craft. All of the
workers know the names of every piece in a work of zellige along with the names of the different
patterns and colors. Every piece has a different name originating from Andalusia21 so in the
beginning a lot of the training in the craft goes towards learning the history and details. In zellige
there are many meanings from numerology in Islam. For example, a lot of stars will have 5
points to represent the 5 pillars of Islam, or 8 sided images for the 8 gates of paradise. There is
also symbolism through color, like green for Islam and fertility, white for purity and innocence,
black for the mystery of life, blue for the sky and freedom, and yellow for gold and wealth.
The time and dedication put towards learning and working in zellige affects another large
aspect of Moroccan life: family. Whether directly or indirectly, family plays a large role in the
lives of zellige workers. Out of 10 of the interviewees, 7 artisans started doing zellige because of
their parents. Since they started young, they were either taken out of school and brought to the
workshop by the parents or they saw their parents working and decided to follow in their
footsteps. The ones who were pushed into zellige did not seem to have many complaints about
their career, but they did seem to think that zellige was the only thing they could be good at. In
20 These number reflect this worker’s salary in the 1980s, I do not have any exact number for the current salary of a zellige worker nor do I know how much it has adjust for inflation. 21 Andalusia and Morocco have strong historical ties; the age where Andalusia was controlled by Arabs is considered a Golden Age as there was large transferred of knowledge between Muslims, Christians, and Jews and many important documents were created that we still use today.
contrast, the workers who choose to do zellige or who followed a parent or sibling felt freer and
more often would say that they would switch jobs if/when they got bored of zellige. All of the
workers liked zellige though, and multiple said they were very happy to be working in zellige
and in their respective studios. The majority of the workers helped to contribute to their family’s
income, and a lot were the main source of income in their family. If they were unmarried, the
workers tended to contribute towards their parents and sibling’s combined income, while if
married contributed towards their nuclear family.
Even though the majority of the workers came to be working in zellige from family, all
but one of them said they don’t want their children to follow in their footsteps. This is a drastic
change from the past and what was written in previous literature. Zellige workshops used to have
many children and were places where you could see generations of workers. If someone had
documented the workshops 5-10 years ago, they would look much different then how they do
now. Some of the workers argued that there isn’t as much money in zellige as there was in the
past. The previous king was an avid advocate of zellige, and many workers felt that contributed
to why they made more money in the past22. Others said that the industry is on the decline and is
not a promising future. One worker said that if his future children decided they wanted to do
zellige he wouldn’t be opposed, but he would prefer if after some time they switched their career
into something more sustainable. All of the workers agreed that they wanted their children to
study first, and most of them wanted their children to stay in school to get a good education.
From this notion and the feeling of low confidence in some of the workers, I am tempted to
argue that while all of them love their job, they also hold some slight resentment towards their
22 The relations to the monarchy and the zellige industry and impact will be discussed in future details in a following paragraph.
lack of formal education and want to make sure that their children are not put in the same
position.
The Moroccan monarchy’s influence stretches all over the country, but it has a
surprisingly strong effect on zellige. Hassan II was an avid supporter of handicrafts, and he
especially loved zellige23. He created many infrastructure projects and made sure that every
project had traditional Moroccan decoration. The Hassan II Mosque is a brilliant example of how
zellige is used everywhere in buildings as it decorates the walls, fountains, and floors in the
outside and inside of the mosque. The mosque is Hassan II’s capstone project, and through his
work there were a hundreds of jobs for zellige craftsmen. On the other hand, according to
articles, the current king Mohammed VI does not have the same passion for handicrafts, and is
pushing for the zellige workshops to change how they use their kilns to make them more
environmentally friendly. This has received a lot of criticism as the change has decreased the
quality of zellige produced. When questioned about any noticeable changes from the transition in
the monarchy, around half of the workers claimed to have noticed no difference in their work
and atmosphere of zellige, however the other half had very strong opinions and noticed an
influential change in their work lives24. The owner of one of the workshops was so passionate
that he interrupted one of the interviews to say his opinion on how the king has changed zellige.
23 Jennifer Roberson, "The Changing Face of Morocco under King Hassan II." Mediterranean Studies 22, no. 1 (2014), accessed November 13, 2019, https://www.muse.jhu.edu/article/547158. 24 Talking about the monarchy can be a sensitive subject, so it is possible that the reason some of the workers claimed to notice no difference is because of the red line. However, based off of body language and interactions I do not feel this was the case with the people I interviewed.
Of the people who saw a noticeable change in the monarchy, the majority said there has
been a change for the worse. One of the owners complained about the mandate to change the
kilns, saying how the kilns normally use oils from olive pits and the switch to propane is actually
worse for the environment and that it has made the zellige tiles weaker. The owner also
mentioned how Hassan II didn’t allow for people to bring in crafts from different countries, in an
effort to keep the art industry purely Moroccan, thriving, and away from any counterfeit
creations. From his point of view, Mohammed VI doesn’t care as much about the Moroccan art
industry and that is why there are people from different countries selling woodwork or weaving
crafts as “Moroccan made” in Morocco. The worker had past experiences where people who are
not Moroccan will copy an art style, such as weaving or woodworking, and pass it off as
authentically “Moroccan”. Another worker mentioned how in Hassan II’s reign, all large
construction projects had a mandatory amount of zellige. For example, if you had x amount of
concrete square footage in a building you needed to include y amount of zellige in order to give
the craftsmen business and keep the industry running. This is why in riads or large houses if
there are two saloons one of them must be decorated in traditional Moroccan design, which often
includes zellige. There were a few people who believe that Mohammed VI is working towards
making the field more professional and continuing the work of his father, however this point of
view is vastly overshadowed. The monarchy is trying to change its global image but in doing so
is pushing the traditions and opinions of its crafts people to the margins instead of hearing their
voices.
Towards the end of the interviews one of the workers made an intriguing and simple
argument; Hassan II’s enthusiasm for the craft and culture simply influenced other people to buy
it, either to impress or fit in. Mohammed VI is merely not as interested, and therefore society will
not think as much about zellige unless it peaks their own interests. A lot of the younger workers
didn’t notice a change between the kings when asked, confirming my theory that the younger
generation won’t care or notice as much the effect of the monarchy because they were not in the
industry for long enough before the change. Most of the workers who noticed any change were
also more exposed to the business aspect, either by their position or by being older and more
involved in the studio. Therefore, another reason why some workers might not have noticed is
simply because, at their position, the ripple effect of the monarchy just does not reach them.
With the craft of zellige being older than Morocco itself, there have been subtle changes
through the years, either in the work, the people, or the industry as globalization becomes a
major international player. Globalization tends to change the way something’s original purpose
was and tries to make businesses international players. Originally, zellige was mainly used to
decorate floors, fountains and walls. However, trends change and people are no longer buying as
much larger scale zellige but rather smaller items like tables and moving fountains, which were
something never even thought of in traditional times. One worker said that is because all the
buildings already have zellige, so only new construction and remodeled buildings are the only
buildings to possibly request zellige work. The lack of new construction projects is a big factor
that affects the industry, as zellige is mainly seen in buildings. The workshops with the contacts
to hotel companies do not feel as affected, since many hotels like to include a slight Moroccan
feel. The lack of large projects and introduction to smaller pieces have even more direct
economic impact. For the most part, zellige craftsmen get paid per piece, so according to an
owner “more pieces more money”. Since the desired works have become smaller, the designs
used for the tables are often very intricate. Some studios have tried to embrace the changing
world and use technology to plan out projects, using modeling software to see how a certain
design would fit into the desired model or area. This intersection of technology and crafts is a
growing global field and some of the workshops have clearly been taking notes.
Globalization has affected more of the business end of zellige, changing the way it is sold
or found. Many cooperatives and workshops have started to maintain an online presence as the
world goes global, giving the option to buy all kinds of zellige work from around the world.
While one owner says that most of his sales are still in person, another worker claimed he made
many commissions from different countries who adore Moroccan zellige, like the United Arab
Emirates. He also argued that Moroccans are not the ones buying zellige as often anymore.
Another workshop said that more tourists buy zellige than Moroccans and they will request
designs and have them shipped back to their respective home countries. It will be interesting to
see how the industry continues to shift and change, and maybe find another documentation 5
years from now with more changes.
The actual workers in zellige have changed as well. There are not as many young
children starting to learn zellige whereas in the past groups of children in the workshops were
very common. As a whole there are not as many people learning the craft, decreasing the overall
population and as a result, the skill level of those left seem higher as they are the only options.
Some of the older workers commented on this aftereffect saying that the skill level has
decreased. One even claimed that someone with a quarter of the skill previously needed to
become a master of the craft can nowadays pass as a professional.
Often times, when someone starts working in zellige they stay in this career path for a
very long time, even possibly their entire career. Even though all of the workers said they really
liked zellige, there is always room for improvement. A zellige workshop tends to be set up as a
big space, with the workers who draw and cut the tiles lining the walls. Each cutter has a stone
stand that they place their mint tea cup and tiles, along with a ledge attached that helps them cut.
Those who lay the tiles take up large round spaces in the middle, enough for the creations to
come to life. Surprisingly, none of the workers had any complaints about the working conditions.
From an outsider’s point of view, sitting on the ground, often concrete, for 8 hours a day seems
like uncomfortable work, but all of the workers mentioned how sitting in the certain position
they were was part of the process and a necessary skill.
(Above) A typical Zellige workshop with the cutters around the edge and those laying tiles in the
center.
Two artists mentioned how they would like to see more creativity in zellige. Zellige
patterns do not change much throughout each year, with the exception of one new pattern made
per year. The workers felt like every new pattern was a step in the right direction, but more
creativity could also benefit the craft. On the other hand, some people were also scared of
potential changes, and said that if anything else changed with zellige it would go downhill,
leading towards hopes that nothing would change in the industry.
There were more serious concerns uncovered through the interviews. One of the zellige
workers who worked in the local Rabat shop talked about how there are people who lack skill
but still get more commissions. They talked about how someone could be an amateur but if they
dressed well and had a nice car then they would network and more people would buy from them,
and how people would judge them [the workers] based off of how they look instead of skill. The
lack of commissions affects living conditions and livelihood, so the workers wish there was a
way for credit to be given where it is due and for justice to be served. This is an issue that effects
a lot of Moroccans; in many fields looks and connections carry more weight then skill, and this is
a big issue that needs to be addressed on a national level25.
Another prominent issue was the lack of paperwork in the zellige trade. The workers do
not receive contracts, so if they are sick then they just miss work and don’t get paid. There is no
security or insurance, and this is a huge source of worry since the amount of work depends on
the commissions, which means it is not very stable. Two of the workers said how they hoped that
there could be government guidelines to help them have stability and security through rules and
guidelines for the industry to follow in terms of workers’ contracts. This was a repeated theme as
many workers answered by saying they would like papers and stability. In many craft industries
having contracts is not common, but the industries in Morocco, particularly zellige, are already
25 This issue is what the official crafts label is trying to fix, however there needs to be both more information known about the label and a larger push from the government and workshops for the legitimacy and prestige it holds.
systematic, so having legal papers made and followed would not alter the workday greatly and
would provide more security for the workers and maybe even the company.
Zellige is a quietly integral part of the Moroccan handicraft heritage. It is part the
mosques, schools, houses, and monuments and is such a staple that any building or room without
zellige automatically seems off-kilter. The quiet, beautiful presence of zellige contrasts the noisy
bustling workshops, with the clinking of ceramics and metal with a fine layer of ceramic dust
covering everything, the slight smell of the ever present mint tea that each worker has, and the
small pockets of quiet space where the tiles are being placed. This is where it is made. These
workers are continuing a legacy that was birthed in Morocco and is one of the most patriotic
crafts in the country. Yet these workers are often forgotten or marginalized (quite literally in the
terms of Fes where the workshops were pushed to move to the edge of the medina). I hope that
through this paper you were able to get a glimpse into the very human, very complex lives that
these workers live and how strongly zellige effects their lives. It is important to see these people
now, not just because they are people but also because of how much the industry is changing. If
someone had done similar research during Hassan II’s rule, or when the Hassan II Mosque was
being built the workshops would look much different than they are now. In 5 more years who
knows how globalization and the tides of time will change the lives of the workers. Hopefully
changes like having official documents and contracts, or having more artisans being recognized
for their work instead of image will come to pass and that the industry will prosper. Over the last
7 weeks spent researching coupled with multiple trips to workshops I have been graced with
seeing a slice of life from these workers who took the time out of their work to answer multiple
questions for the sake of a strange small foreign girl’s research paper. I have gotten to know
these craftsmen, having even eaten lunch with one of their families’, and I can only hope to have
done them justice through this paper. This paper could be taken to inspire, to create
understanding, to be informative, or even to create change; all I hope is that in the end you
remember the human.
George Tucker Gette, Micah L. Flock, Stephen Philip Oliveira. “Preservation and Progress: The Socio-Economic and Environmental Effects of Modernizing Zillij Production”
Hamlin, Cassandra Lynne, Helei Duan, John Joseph Amante, and Mikhail Yuryevich Morozov. “Recommendations Toward Expanding the Scope of the Zellij Craft Industry,” n.d.
Hunter, F. Robert “Manufacturing Exotica: Edith Wharton and Tourism in French Morocco, 1917-20” Middle Eastern Studies 46, no. 1 (2010), accessed November 13, 2019. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00263200903432266
Roberson, Jennifer "The Changing Face of Morocco under King Hassan II." Mediterranean Studies 22, no. 1 (2014), accessed November 13, 2019. https://www.muse.jhu.edu/article/547158.