How to Weave a Scarf2 (2)

8/4/2019 How to Weave a Scarf2 (2)

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©2011 interweave press llc. all rights reserved. not to be repr inted.

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sx handwoven scarve



1 Hw t W Scr rm Weaving Today ©2011 interweave press llc. all rights reserved. not to be repr inted.

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Serendipity Scar Color Meets exture by Joan Sheridan

sk y k . a y y, , ,

x - y . t m k y

m ué. i xu uuy, yu y k

y.




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In my shop, I always have a loom warped and ready so

my customers can sit down and weave. I also have an

entire room devoted to sock yarns! Needless to say,sock yarns oten make their way onto the shop looms.

Most sock yarns are treated so they won’t ull or shrink.

Tey are, however, designed to retain the ber’s lot. Tis

means that you need to allow or a generous amount o

take-up. You will also want to be careul when you wind the

warp that you don’t apply too much tension and inadvertently

wind a shorter warp than you intended.

Oten blended with nylon to increase strength, sock

yarns are made to endure the abuse that a garment

designed or the oot receives. Tereore, standing up to

the wear o the heddles and reed, or in my case a rigid

heddle, is no problem or them!

ResourcesDavenport, Betty. Hands On Rigid Heddle Weaving. Loveland,

Colorado: Interweave, 1997.Gipson, Liz. Weaving Made Easy, Loveland, Colorado: Interweave,

2008.

Structure Pl w.

Equipment

R-hl r 2-sht lm, 11 w wth; 12-t

r; 1 stck shuttl.

Yarns

Warp: 70%wl/30% l sls bl, (2,100 /lb,462 /100 bll, Nr Kur Sck Yr) clr #S240,

384 .

Weft: 78% mhr/13%wl/9% l buclé (960 /

lb, 480 /8 z sk, Hrt Mhr, Hrt Sp

W), Gr Trrs, 181 .

Warp Length

128 s 3 l (llws 9" r tk-up 22 r lm

wst).

Setts

Wrp: 12 p.

Wt: 10 pp.

Dimensions

Wth th r: 10 3 ⁄ 5".

W lth: 741 ⁄ 4".

Fsh sz: tr wsh, 67 1 ⁄ 2" × 9 1 ⁄ 4" wth 4 3 ⁄ 4"

r t ch .

W wrp 128 s 3 l. Wrp th lm r pl

w.

Plc 3 pcks wt ltrt shs th prss

thm ll tthr t spr th wrp. Us lht bt,

w th scr pl w r 741 ⁄ 4. Rm th clth

rm th lm.

T sh, wrk twst r wth 4 wrp s ch

r. Hwsh th scr wrm wtr wth ml sp.

Rll up th scr twl prss rml wth ur hs

t rm xcss wtr. L lt t r.

1

2

3

Fo r mo re i n s p i ra t io n,

ge t Ha nd wo ve n de l i v

e red to

yo u r doo r 5 t i me s a yea r !

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Shetland Scar Pick-Up on a Rigid-Heddle Loom Creates a Wae-Weave exture by Joe Sullins

a k-u k y y yu - m. U

“ ” m by l d’Textures and Patterns for the Rigid Heddle Loom,

u jy. o , m y m mu u

!




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W uu u u

y u m f k

k u . w y ,

k u . t

u m y

u

y mu m k-u .

ey, k k , yu

u uu y !

ResourcesDavenport, Betty Linn. Textures and Patterns for the Rigid

Heddle Loom. Albany, Oregon: Fine Fiber Press, 2008.__. Hands On Rigid Heddle Weaving . Loveland, Colorado:

Interweave, 1997.

Gipson, Liz. Weaving Made Easy. Loveland, Colorado:

Interweave, 2008.

Structure

Pl w wth pck-up.

EquipmentR-hl lm, 9 w wth; 12-t r;

1 shuttl; 1 pck-up stck.

YarnsWrp wt: 2-pl wl (1,800 /lb, Shtl,

Hrrsll Dss), Prwkl, 630 .

Warp Length

105 s 3 l (llws 7 r smpl, 5 r tk-up,

24 r lm wst; lm wst clus r).

Setts

Wrp: 12 p. Wt: 18 pp.

Dimensions

Wth th r: 8 2 ⁄ 3.

W lth: 72.

Fsh sz tr wsh 6 1 ⁄ 2 × 69.TIP: Always pick up warp threads with theheddle in the down position. Tis ensuresthat you only pick up the ends that arethreaded through the slots.

Fur-Str Flt Br

C.

A. D th wrp t buls tw rups wth 2 wrp thrs ch rup.

B. Strt th lt s, br th uts thr r th s lt thr. Th br th rht thr ur th s rht thr

r th lt thr tht s w sr s th s lt thr.

C. Rpt stps A B utl u h rch 6 scur wth rh kt.

A. B.




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W wrp 104 s 3 l.

Wrp th lm llw th spc-

cts p 4.

Wth th hl th w ps-

t, pck up 1 thr push w

1 thr crss th wth th wrp

utl u rch th lst wrp

(u’ll pck up ths ).

Push th pck-up stck t th bck

th lm. Strt wth th hl

th w pst, w 4 pcks

pl w.

To create the windowpane pattern:

Row 1: W 1 pck, hl up.

Row 2: W 1 pck wth th pck-up

stck : Put th hl th

utrl pst, pull th pck-up stck

twr th hl, tur th pck-up

stck t mk sh, -

srt th wt. Th rtur th pck-up

stck t th bck th lm.

Row 3: W 1 pck, hl up.

Row 4: W 1 pck, hl w.

Row 5: W 1 pck wth th hl

up pck-up stck : Wth

th hl th up pst, pull

th pck-up stck twr th hl

w. Th rtur th pck-up

stck t th bck th lm.

Row 6: W 1 pck, hl w.

Rpt Rws 1–6 r 71 1 ⁄ 2. E wth

4 pcks pl w.

Rm th clth rm th lm. T

rh kts ch rup 4wrp thrs bth s th

scr, su th kts rml

st th lst pck. Us

4-str br tchqu (s th

rm p 4), br ch wrp

bul r 6 th scur ch

br wth rh kt. Trm

th s 1 ⁄ 4 rm th kts.

Wsh th scr b h r mch

(tl ccl) wrm wtr wth

ml sp. Rll up th scr twl

prss rml wth ur hs t

rm xcss wtr. L lt t r.

2

3

4

5

1

Handwoven 2002-2010 Collection

CDs available now!

(866) 949-1646

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Big Bumps Scar In Merino and “Fulling-Proo” Wool by Madelyn van der Hoogt




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O

n the way to this scar, I learned something new about

shrinking/ulling abrics. Te wool-and-cotton scarves I’d

woven many times tended to shrink more in the wetdirection than in the warp direction. I wanted to determine exactly

how much that might happen with this scar, so (never my avorite

plan) I decided it was important to sample. I wove and nished a

short sample; see Photo a.

Concluding that this time or some reason (it might have been wise to

think about the “some reason” a little more) these materials had the

opposite eect, I wove a rst scar so that the design “squares” were

taller than they were wide; see Photo b at let and Photo d, page 8. An

unwelcome surprise was that washing and ulling this scar urther

elongated the squares and circles; see Photo c!

A new conclusion! Fabrics have a tendency to shrink more in the

direction o their smaller measurement. My original sample was shorterthan it was wide; a scar is a lot longer than it is wide. aking this

principle into account or the project scar on page 6, I wove the design

squares shorter than wide; see Photo e, page 8. Te pued circles are

close to round, and the design squares are square in the nal scar.

Structure Pl w.

Equipment

4-sht lm, 15" w wth; 10-t r; 2 shuttls;

2 whts r lt sls.

YarnsWrp wt: 18/2 mr wl (5,040 /lb), JrSpu

Supr Mr), S, 740 . 20/2 wl (4,570 /lb, Mr,

Glmkr USA, 1,035 /3.5 z), t #2082, 720 .

Warp Length

187 s 4 l (llws 3" r tk-up 27" r lm wst).

Setts

Warp: 10 p r r mr, but 18 p r t wl; s

t rr Fur 1, p 8.

Weft: 13 pcks r mr pr ch 13 ⁄ 8" strp 13 pcks t

wl pr ch 1 ⁄ 2" strp.

Dimensions

Wth th r: 141 ⁄ 2". W lth (msur ur ts

th lm): but 114". Fsh sz tr wsh ull:

61 ⁄ 2" × 57".

a.

b.

a. in e fulled ample, degn quare are orer an

ey are wde. b. te fr carf wa woven w degn

quare aller an wde. c. te reul afer fullng wa

degn quare aller an ey are wde. More rnkage

occurred n e drecon of e malle meauremen.

c.




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e.

d.

f.

. t u

u (u u

, u k

m , mm

).. t m

k

, qu

j

y (2 k m

m m ).

. w m m

m, x

mmy

m u .

W wrp 187 s 4 l llw Fur 2. Ctr r 14 1 ⁄ 2,

us ur prrr mth t thr th shts sl th r llw

Fur 1 (r mr s t 1/t; t wl s t 2/t xcpt r th

lst ch t strp t 1/t).

T th wrp t th rt pr r w th scr llw th

trl Fur 1. T mk th t scts crculr, I prss th rst

lst tw r mr pcks cls tthr xt t t strps, but spc

th thr r pcks crull; s Pht . Prss t pcks rml wth th

btr. (Nt tht th t scts, utl b th r mr ts, r

shrtr th th r tll. E th, th t crcls th sh scr r

slhtl l th wrp rct. I u wsh t xprmt, u cul tr 11

t pcks r ch sct st 13.) Crr th r mr wt rm

sct t sct wthut cutt. Fr ch rst r mr pck, I tr

th shuttl ur th t sl t strt (ls xt ur) th

r succss pcks tr r th t sl xt ur t.

Cut th t wt tr ch us: tk t wt tls ru th lt

sl bck t th sm sh, trmm t th th sc t

wrp strp. Pck th clth bm wth stur ppr t prtct th ls

trlcmts.

T trm w lth (but 114 r ths scr), t tht th sh

scr wll shrk t lss th hl ts wth th r but hl ts w

lth, (p r sh). Wh u h sh w,

rm th scr rm th lm crull, llw but 6 uw wrp

t ch . T th 6 wrp lth rm ch wrp strp rh

kt su st th rst (r lst) r pck. Th t th thrs rm

ch wrp strp t th sm thrs t th thr th scr t mk r, sur csstt shrk l th scr’s lth.

Wsh th scr b h ht wtr wth smll mut sh sp r Orus

Pst. Att l wth ur hs r but 15 muts r utl sr

ull s rch. Cut prt t rs, shp bumps s wth ur -

rs, l th scr t utl r. Cut f r r mr sct t

ch , crt scllp ru th rst rw bumps.

1

2

4

3

1. Draft

2. Warp color order

1 1

G

G

G

G

G

G

G

G

G

G

GG

GG GG

G

T

T

T

T

T

TT

T

T

2 2 2

3 33

4 4 4

6x6x

5x

60x

6x

5x

6x 7x

33 15

13139196

187

= floating selvedge (green merino)

= sley in one dent

green merino

tan wool

6x




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Basketweave ScarvesIn Wool Singles and Laceweight Yarns by Liz Gipson

bk uu uu - m. F u

-- uu .




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B

asketweave is like plain weave except that two

threads work together in both warp and wet. You

can go arther! Te ner the yarn, the more ends youcan put in one slot or hole o a rigid heddle.

Weaving the ScarvesWind the warp and dress the loom ollowing the directions on

this page or the white scar or page 11 or the purple scar.

o wind a shuttle with 2 threads, use a ball winder to

make a 21 ⁄ 2 ounce center-pull ball. Use both ends rom the

ball as 1 (1 rom the center, 1 rom the outside) to wind

doubled strands o wet on a stick shuttle. I you are using

tripled ends, wind rom two balls and use 1 end rom one

ball and 2 ends rom the other.It is important that the ends are pulled onto the shuttle

under similar tension. For instance, winding 1 end rom a

skein on a swit and 1 rom a center-pull ball will cause the

yarns to unwind rom the shuttle unevenly.

Weave a ew inches with scrap yarn to spread the warp.

Weave a ew picks with the white or purple wet leaving a

1 yd tail. Hemstitch using the tail, including 2 picks and 2

warp threads in each stitch. Continue weaving or 85.

Finish with hemstitching as at the beginning.

FinishingRemove the scar rom the loom by untying the warp rom

the back and ront apron rods. (Leaving the warp ringe long

will help keep it rom raying and makes trimming the

nished ringe easier to do.) Remove scrap yarn. Wash by

hand or machine, gentle cycle, with delicate soap. Straighten

the ringe and hang the scar to dry.

Using a rotary cutter, trim the ringe to 3–4". he ends

will naturally twist together in the direction in which thesingles yarn was spun, creating the appearance o a twisted

ringe.

TIP: o wind doubled threads, pull both ends rom a center-pull ball, one orm the outside, one rom the inside.

Good to know: Some wools eel rough to the touch. Tis can be due to the spinning oilsused during the manuacturing process or the sizing used to protect the yarns on the cone.Once the yarn is washed, many seemingly “scratchy” yarns will soten and bloom.

White Scarf

Structure

Bsktw.

EquipmentR-hl lm, 10" w wth; 8-t r hl;

1 stck shuttl.

YarnsWrp wt: wl sls (1,800 /lb, Brtlttrs,

Hlc), wht, 824 .

Warp Length

78 ubl s 3 l (llws 24" r tk-up lm

wst).

Setts

Wrp: 8 p.

Wt: 7 pp.

Dimensions

Wth th r: 9". W lth: 85". Fsh sz tr

wsh: 8" × 78" wth 4” r t ch .




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Purple Scarf

Structure Bsktw.

EquipmentR-hl lm, 10"

w wth; 8-t

r hl; 1 stck shuttl.

YarnsWrp wt: 20/2 wl

(4,700 /lb, Mr,

Glmkr USA), purpl,

#2059, 1,243 .

Warp Length

74 trpl s 3 l

(llws 22" r tk-up

lm wst).

Setts

Wrp: 8 p.

Wt: 8 pp.

Dimensions

Wth th r: 9 1 ⁄ 4".

W lth: 85".

Fsh sz tr wsh:

8 1 ⁄ 4" × 77" wth 3" ktt

r t ch .




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Felted Lace Scar In Superfne Merino by Madelyn van der Hoogt

This scarf is pure fun! It’s quick-and-easy plain weave with only one shuttle—and every other inch in both the warp

and the weft is an empty space. During wet finishing, the soft, loosely woven merino wool fulls to a felted texture,

producing two independent but interlocking woven grids of small plain-weave sections. The raw edges can be

trimmed as desired and still remain secure.




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N o yarn o my experience ulls as beautiully as Jag-

gerSpun’s Superine Merino. I use it in almost all

handwovens that eature eects rom dierentialshrinkage between yarns, and it is especially ideal or hand-

wovens in which a elted but supple and sot texture is re-

quired. Tis scar is deliciously light and sot to the touch, yet

the bers are elted enough that you can cut away any element

you don’t like without ear o raveling. I was strongly tempted

to narrow the elted foat areas between plain-weave sections

by just cutting them away!

Te Structure Although the weave structure is identied as plain weave,

it could be argued that it is actually a doubleweave.

Essentially, groups o warp threads on shats 1 and 2

alternate with groups o warp threads on shats 3 and 4

(19 threads in each group). For 19 picks each, plain weave

is woven rst in the groups threaded on shats 1 and 2 and

then in the groups threaded on shats 3 and 4.

Tese two plain-weave treadlings (separated by 1"

spaces) alternate throughout. I you were to cut away the

warp and wet threads rom either “group,” the others

would remain as an independent abric with sections o

plain weave separated by (very) long foats.

Further ExplorationTis abric would make wonderul shawls and could also be

used or vests or other decorative over-garments. Te scar

uses only one color, but the two “layers” could contrast in hue

and/or value or several colors in two contrasting colorways

could be used. Because the edges o each section o plain weave

are secure rom ulling, any abric woven in this technique can

be shaped in interesting ways by trimming.

. a 19 k

. t m . p-

u 1 2 - u

3 4 .

Structure Pl w.

Equipment4-sht lm, 17" w wth; 10-t r; 1 shuttl;

1 w spcr 1" × 19" r lr; smth, stur ppr

19" w l uh t pck bth th wrp bm th

clth bm r but 3 ch.

YarnsWrp wt: 18/2 mr wl (5,040 /lb,

JrSpu Supr Mr), Blck, 1,155 .

Warp Length

171 s 4 l (llws 5" r tk-up, 31" r lm wst).

SettsWrp: 91 ⁄ 2 p (19 s 10 ts ltrt wth

10 mpt ts.

Wt: 19 pcks pr 7 ⁄ 8" ltrt wth 13 ⁄ 8 mpt spc.

DimensionsWth th r: 17".

W lth (msur ur ts th lm): 109".

Fsh sz tr wsh ull: 8" × 63".

11 1 1

22

S

S

S

3

4 4

/

/

/

/

/

/

9x

4x

*

*= insert stick

(omit at end

of last repeat)

= 10 empty dents

9x

25x

1

2

9x

1

3

4 4

9x

*

9x

1. Draft for black scarf




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W wrp 171 s 4 l.

T us rt-t-bck wrp

mth: Ctr r 17, sl 19

s 2/t 10-t r; sl

th lst sl. *Skp 10 ts

sl th xt 19 s th sm

w. Rpt rm * utl sc-

ts 19 s h b sl.

Thr th shts llw Fur 1,

t th wrp t th bck pr r,

bm th wrp wth t-

s. (I us scts smth

h ppr 19 × 24 t pck th

wrp bm. As th urll ur

w, I us th sm pcs t

pck th clth bm. Th ltrt

strps wrp thrs mpt

spcs mk pck th clth bmmprtt r mt t-

s ll th wrp thrs.)

T th wrp t th rt pr r

(t ch wrp strp sprtl). Al-

lw but 4 uw wrp,

rs shts 1 4 srt th

spcr. Th b w th rst

19-pck wt strp llw Fur 1

(ltrt trls 1 2). Prss

th rst 2 pcks rml st th

spcr, but w th rm 17

pcks wth rltl tl bt

(but 7 ⁄ 8). Rm th spcr, -

c th wrp, rsrt th

spcr rs shts 1 4. W

th xt strp, ltrt trls 3

4. Prss th rst 2 pcks rml

st th spcr (ls push th

spcr xt t th lst pck th pr-

us strp). Th w th rm-

17 pcks wth rltl tl

bt. Ctu, ltrt th tw

strps pl w rm

rsrt th spcr. T kp

trck, I mrk r sx strps

(but 131 ⁄ 2) wth smll st p

w ht ths th wth lst pl-w sct

us shts 1 2.

Gtl rm th scr rm th

lm. T twst r us

wrp strp r ch r. (Yu c

us th twst r s th r r

ur scr r u c trm f ll r

tr ull s I r ths scr.)

Prpr r s Pht c. T wt

sh, llw th stps us b Br-

br Hrbstr r hr shwl th

Jur/Fbrur 2009 ssu

Handwoven (ps 44–46): Ht

wtr lr pt utl t just b-

s t smmr. Submr th scr

llw t st r 4 muts wth

tt. A 1 tblsp lqu

sh sp th trsr th c-

tts th pt t sk r plstc

tub t whch u h but

3 ht tp wtr. Att r 5

muts wth w sp

th wth ur hs (wh th

wtr s cl uh t hl th

scr). Att (crull m th

whl scr bul ru th

wtr l) utl th scr rchsth ull txtur u lk (but -

t muts r ths scr).

Trm th twst r up t th rst

lst rws pl w bth

s ( sr). Trm ls r

rrulr thrs rm prt

th scr s u lk. Th ull

thrs wll t rl!

1

2

3 4

5

6

. w m m m, , y mu y y. . t mk u u

m uu , m m

. (i yu ’ u ’ , y y u, k .)

b c




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h

a 1 1

2a

S

S

S

3

4 4

a

aa

bb

b

9x

4x

*

* = insert stick

(omit at end

of last repeat)

= 10 empty dents

(omit at end

of last repeat)

= light green, pink, or rust

9x

25x

a

a= light blue, orange, or tealb

bb b

9x

*

9x

F

u w

s; Handwoven, M/

a 2009, 64–65:

. s c (k)

pumk (); .

i u ,

c (u)

pk ();

, s

( ) i bu

( u).

. l u m ; . l u m m m

; . pk u mm.

2. Draft forscarves inPhotos d–h

Materials for scarves in

Photos d–h:

a 4 y :

• 152 ends = 608 yd for warp (304y u )

• 932 picks = 415 yd for weft (208 y u

• Total yardage per scarf: 512 yd

Fr th clr scrs, llw th -

structs r th blck scr, xcpt:

Altrt tw clrs strps 19

s ch th wrp llw Fur 2

r 152 ttl wrp s 15” w

wth. (Th lmt th lst strp

Fur 1 crts smmtrclstrp rrmt.) Yu c cut th

r ur scrs t mk crculr

tbs s r th pk r scr

(s Phts h) r trm s r th

thr scrs.

How to Weave a Scarf2 (2)

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