How To Use The Monopod

8/7/2019 How To Use The Monopod

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How To Use The Monopod & The Multi-Purpose TripodPhotography and Text By Philip Tulin All rights reserved.

The Monopod

The monopod has one leg instead of the standard three legs onthe tripod. OTG Digital Photography is not possible withoutthe monopod with a flexible ball head that allows thedesired camera orientation needed to produce all types ofphotographs. The monopod is not considered a replacementfor the tripod as the tripod will always be steadier for takingphotographs. But the monopod is easier to carry, easier to movearound, lighter than the tripod, less confining and quicker duringOTG Digital Photography. In fact, the monopod will open new

photo opportunities for you that did not exist if the camera washandheld or attached to a tripod. But for REAL low light exposures, the tripod is the onlyoption. As better skills are acquired with the monopod, some low light situations can bephotographed (but still not REAL low light situations).

So, what are the options for using the monopod? The first option of standing themonopod perpendicular to the ground is NOT an option. There is no pressure to the left,to the right, to the front, downward or to the back to keep the monopod from moving. Try itand see for yourself with your monopod. If you don't have a monopod, use a wooden dowelor a broomstick. All the following options are described based on a person looking trough thecamera with the right eye and using your right hand on the shutter release.

Option 1:

Figure 1 displays the left foot andthe right foot in black color. The redcircle indicates the position of thebottom of the monopod leg. Thestandard setup for the monopod isin the three legged position. Thethree legs consist of your left leg,

your right leg plus the single leg of the monopod. This positioncopies the form of the standard tripod. But it is the weakest position of all the monopodoptions. The left and the right foot may either be parallel to each other or both feet may beslightly opened to a 10 degree angle. Practice this position without the monopod to decide onthe exact position of the right and the left foot. Depending on the length of the tripod, itplaced approximately 2 feet in front of your two feet. The monopod is at approximately a 20degree angle. By using the ball head, the camera can be positioned vertically as well as


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horizontally. Bring the camera as close to your chest as possible and tuck your two elbowsas close to the side of your body as possible, too. With your left hand, hold the top of themonopod and the bottom of the camera and exert gentle pressure down the length of themonopod to the ground. This will stabilize the monopod so that the leg does slip on the

ground as well as moving forward. Another option is to use the right hand on top of themonopod instead of the left hand thus freeing the left hand if the left hand is needed foranother purpose. The two elbows tucked into your body stop the monopod from moving rightor left. The pressure of left hand stops the monopod from moving front to back. Practiceusing the monopod with option 1 until you feel extremely natural and comfortable.

Option 2:

Figure 2 displays the left footforward and the right foot back inblack color. The red circle indicates

the position of the bottom of themonopod leg. Option 2 is based ona right handed person. Reverse theposition by having the left foot infront if needed. Option 2 is a verystable position with the left footforward and the right foot in back.The left foot is not faced perfectly forward as the foot isapproximately 10 degrees off of facing forward. The right foot is almost parallel to the leftfoot. It does not matter if the left foot faces forward and the right foot is at 90 degrees to theright foot. The important element is that your body is perfectly stable and does not lean from

side to side of from front to back. The left leg is slightly bent. Practice this position without themonopod to decide on the exact position of the right and the left foot. Think of this position asa stable karate position similar the horse position. In karate, no matter which direction theforce approaches, you will remain completely stable. Set the monopod next the instep of theright foot. This will stop the monopod from moving to the right or to the rear. Bend your leftleg slightly and place the monopod next to the upper thigh of the left leg. The monopod nowbe at a 20 degree angle to the body and slightly tilting forward. With your left hand, hold thetop of the monopod and the bottomof the camera and exert gentlepressure down the length of themonopod to the ground as well as

slightly to the left. The pressure ofthe monopod to the left thigh willkeep the monopod from moving tothe left. This also will stabilize themonopod so that the leg does slipon the ground as well as movingforward. The monopod is now in a


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very stable position to pan from side to side and up or down. Vertical and horizontalphotographs are possible. Another option is to use the right hand on top of the monopodinstead of the left hand thus freeing the left hand if the left hand is needed for anotherpurpose. Practice using the monopod with option 2 until you feel extremely natural and

comfortable.

Option 3:

Figure 3 displays the left foot andthe right foot in black color. The redcircle indicates the position of thebottom of the monopod leg. Option2 is based on a right handedperson. Reverse the position byhaving the left foot in front if

needed. The left and the right footmay either be parallel to each otheror both feet may be slightly openedto a 10 degree angle. Practice this position without themonopod to decide on the exact position of the right and the left foot. Think of this position asa stable karate position similar the horse position. In karate, no matter which direction theforce approaches, you will remain completely stable. Set the monopod through your legs andapproximately 3-5 inches in back of your left foot. Your height and the flexibility of themonopod will determine the exact placement of the monopod. Bend your left leg slightly andplace the monopod next to the upper thigh of the left leg while wrapping the monopod aroundthe inside of the left leg. The monopod will approximately be a 20 degree angle to the body

and slightly tilting forward. With your left hand, hold the top of the monopod and the bottom ofthe camera and exert gentle pressure down the length of the monopod to the ground as wellas slightly to the left. This will bend the monopod ever so slightly. If the monopod does noteasily bend, place the bottom of the monopod closer to the left foot. The pressure of themonopod to the left thigh will keep the monopod from moving to the left. This also willstabilize the monopod so that the leg does slip on the ground aswell as moving forward. The monopod is now in a very stableposition to pan from side to side and up or down. Vertical andhorizontal photographs are possible. Another option is to use theright hand on top of the monopod instead of the left hand thusfreeing the left hand if the left hand is needed for another

purpose. Practice using the monopod with option 3 until youfeel extremely natural and comfortable.

Option 4:Option 4 consists of the monopod stabilizer pouch. Themonopod pouch is worn on the OTG belt (see also the Camera& Belt Section). When you are on-the-go, the monopod is closed


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to the shortest length (about 10-14 inches). The monopod and camera is ready for any photoopportunity. If a camera needs to be steady for a fast and opportunistic photo moment, themonopod may be placed into the monopod pouch for instant stability. Hold the camera withthe left hand close to the body. This will stabilize the monopod. Spread your feet for the most

stable position for taking a photograph. Practice using the monopod with option 4 untilyou feel extremely natural and comfortable.

Practice your breathing techniques and as well as your shutter control with yourmonopod to produce the sharpest photographs possible.

The Multi-Purpose Tripod

The Multi-Purpose Tripod is a very light and versatile piece of

equipment. The tripod can be as low as 3" and as tall as 11".This particular tripod also has a universal ball head for maximumflexibility of horizontal as well as vertical photographs. Theheight of the tripod can be adjusted exactly from 3" to 11"since the center shaft can be raised or lowered to fit almostevery situation. Another advantage of the Multi-Purpose Tripodis that it can be placed on the ground, on boulders, on a fence,etc. to produce a very stable tripod if a longer shutter speed isnecessary or multiple panoramic landscape photographs areneeded.


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Trail supporta lightweight hiking pole, ball head and quick-release solution

On this page

y Trail Support

y A Hiking Pole/Monopod Solution

y Stabilizing the Camera

y Afoot

y Tripods

y What About Later Camedia Rangefinders and the C-2100UZ?

y References and Links

Last updated

Trail Support

Afew hikes with my Oly C-2020Z made it clear that taking full advantage ofthe camera on thetrail meant finding a ready way to steady it

y against my less than rock-steady grip

y against the wind,

y against unstable footing

y fortelephoto shots, and

y for long exposurese.g., in low light with the flash offorforinfrared work

among other scenarios.Toward that end, I now carry a hiking pole that doubles as a monopod, but now andthen, my tripod comes along. Before launching into these support solutions, let's take a look at why camera support

is so important.

Magnifying Shake

Camera shake is obviously a problem in windy and low-light conditions, but why with a telephoto lens? Because

long lenses magnify camera shake right along with the subject.

The 1/f35 Rule

For 35 mm cameras, a good rule of thumb is to use a tripod or other camera support whenever shutter speed falls

below the reciprocal of the focal length. Thus, at 105 mm zoom, plan to seek camera support for shutter speeds

slower than 1/105 sec. At 180 mm, don't try to handhold shots slower than 1/180 sec.


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Digital camera users can follow a similar rule to the extent that they know their camera's 35 mm equivalent focal

lengths, but it might be wise to work on the conservative side of the rule: Weight dampens shake, and digital

cameras are much lighter than most 35 mm SLRs.

Image-stabilized long lenses like the 10x (38-380 mm) zoom on the Oly C-2100UZ presumably allow handholding

beyond the bounds of the 1/f35 rule, but how far beyond, I don't know.

Handholding

Ofcourse, your handholding ability will also vary depending on yourfooting, age, physical condition and current

caffeine load.

Footing

Of these, I find footing the most critical factor.Without a solid stance, it's very difficult to hold still forany length of

time. Handholding while standing on a steep slope is particularly challenging. Sit down and brace against your knees

ifyou can.

Bracketing for Shake

It's easy to forget that with a digital camera and sufficient memory capacity, the marginal cost ofan extra shot is nil.

Ifyou're concerned about shake and can't add support, take the shot several times. I often get one still shot out of

four at shutter speeds as low as 1/6 sec.

Unfortunately, I haven't found my camera's LCD very reliable for assessing shake in the field. Motion blurring

obvious on my computer monitor can be invisible in the LCD.

Testing Your Limits

I also suggest testing your handholding to see how slow you can go on average.With digital photography, the

testing's never been easier, and once you know your limits, you can plan realistically.

A Hiking Pole/Monopod Solution

Asturdy tripod and a camera remote control are the ultimate in steadiness, o

fcourse, but most o

fthe time, I'm just not willing to carry and futz with a tripod. At times, a tripod's an absolute must,

but more often, I find one impracticale.g., when I'm on the move or working in a crowdedspace. That's where a monopod really shines. (A mini-tripod planted on the chest is another trickworth trying.)


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With proper leveling, a monopod's also a handy platform for panorama work. Check out, forexample, Allen Tweed's panorama bracketfor the C-20x0Z. I haven't tried one, but it looks veryslick.

When it occurred to me that a hiking pole doubling as a monopod might be just my cup oftea,

the gears began to turn...

Criterion Solution

Camera support on the fly Hiking or trekking pole with monopod mount

Full aiming freedom without complicated

controls

Single-lever ball head rather than pan-tilt head

No unnecessary wear and tear on mycamera's tripod thread

Quick-release (QR) camera mount, with the platehenceforth living on the camera

Compactin proportion to the camera Small or at most medium ball head

Light but strong and durable Aluminum or magnesium construction

Reasonable cost Pass up the high-end stuff.

A little on-line research and a few e-mails to friends soon got me to...

The Short Answer

The table below details from the ground up a very workable monopod-based trail support system for any camera

comparable in size and weight to the Camedias:

Product Notes Weight Size (HxWxD) Source Cost

Komperdell HikerAnti-Shock trekking

staff

Telescoping aluminum

pole with a 1/4"-20

camera mount

12 oz

(160 gm)

29-56 in (74-142

cm)

REI $50

Velbon PH-253 magnesium ball head,

medium

Single-lever action with

panning

5.7 oz

(340 gm)

3.2x2.5x1.4 in

(8.1x6.3x3.5 cm)

B&H

Photo

$60

Velbon QRA-635 magnesium alloy quick-

release adapter

Adjustable anti- swivel

flanged plate with

automatic safety latch

3.3 oz

(120 gm)

4.1x2.2x0.8 in

(10.3x5.7x2.0 cm)

B&H

Photo

$40

Camedia with SmartMedia card, 4 NiMH

batteries, CLA-1 adapter, multicoated UV

filter, polarizerand lens cap with tether,

QR plate

My standard camera rig

for trail use now

19 oz

(510 gm)

2.9x4.0x4.0 in

(7.5x10.3x10.3 cm)n/a

Total (less shipping and handling) 30 oz

(851 gm)

$150

On receipt, I was both delighted and relieved to see how well everything worked together. The combination proved

easy to operate with a satisfying feel and balance, all while meeting the target size, weight and cost.

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The only downside I've encountered is the need to remove the QR plate from the camera to change batteries. It's

hard for me to imagine a sufficiently stable QR base plate that wouldn't cover the C-20x0Z battery door, and the

benefits far outweigh the occasional inconvenience, IMO.

Putting It All Together

Here's the entire setup in various stages ofassembly:

A 1/4"-20 mounting screw hides under the original cork head of the hiking pole,

here shown collapsed. Unfortunately, when the cork head went, so did the original

wrist strap, but see below and below. The pole has a foam handle, 3 collapsible

sections, a shock absorber, a tough basket and a carbide tip.

All main components of the trail support setup, here largely disassembled. The QRadapter plate is already installed on the camera. Peeking out around the inboard edge

of the QR latch lever is the corner ofa release button that automatically closes the

spring-loaded latch when the camera plate seats.

The flanged camera plate positively prevents swiveling when the camera's tilted off

the horizontal on the ball head. The panning joint is visible here below the

adjustment lever shaft. The entire assembly is very secure, with nothing loose to fall

offwith the camera dismounted.

The entire setup, fully assembled less shoulder strap, here with camera mounted and

the pole fully extended. The top of the doorknob is 40" above the floor.


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The entire setup again, here with the pole fully collapsed. The pole's still too long to

fit comfortably in a day pack at this length but could easily be lashed to the outside

ofa backpack.

Homemade detachable shoulder strap parts: An old 1" nylon webbing camera bag

strap cinching down to 30", 2 UV-resistant 9x3/8" nylon "mounting ties" and 2 REI

1.5" mini-karabiners, the last picked up months ago in the firm belief that they'd

come in handy eventually. (Pavlov proved that a mere 10% reinforcement rate

maintains such irrational behaviors indefinitely.)

Pulling down the top of

thefoam grip exposed the pole

for installation o

fthe upperstrap mount, which could just as easily hang a replacement wrist strap. Both strap

mounts attach to the uppermost section of the pole. The QR shoe latch is cocked

open here.

So far, the pole's taper has kept the nylon tie of the lower strap mount in place. The

sturdy basket keeps the pole from sinking into the mud, some ofwhich is still visible

above the rubber safety cap covering the carbide tip.

By looping the shoulder strap around the wrist and locking the loop by clamping the

free end between thumb and grip, you can regain the weight-transfer advantage of

the lost wrist strap. Ifyou take the time to untwist the strap where it hugs the skin,

this configuration is reasonably comfortable.

Many other reasonable solutions exist, ofcourse, and this setup certainly won't suit everyone. However, most of the

other adaptable monopods, ball heads and quick releases I found were either heavier or more expensiveusually

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Stabilizing the Camera

To achieve perfect steadiness, all 6 of the camera's potential degrees offreedom must be fully constrained:

y right-to-left, up-and-down and fore-and-aft translations

y yawing, rolling and pitching rotations

Of these, the 3 rotations are the most likely to produce visible camera shake. A monopod eliminates up-and-down

movements and rolling and pitching rotations, but the remaining 3 degrees offreedomyawing, side-to-side and

fore-and-aft motionsstill threaten steadiness.

To achieve maximum feasible steadiness, combine the steadying techniques below whenever you can. Every little

constraint helps.With practice, my ability to steady my monopod while standing continues to improve, but I neverpass up opportunities to brace the monopod against something even steadier. When standing, the most important

ingredient remains a stable stance.When I'm teetering on my feet, holding the monopod still is hopeless. Squatting

is a sure recipe for camera shake, at least for me.

Free-Standing Monopod Technique

My best standing monopod technique was adapted from JedWee's excellent How to use a monopod article. To

summarize here for right-handed photographers,

y Arrange a wide, comfortable, well-balanced oblique stance with feet well apart at 60-90 to each other, left

foot forward. Ifyourfooting's precarious, adjust it nowa stable stance is absolutely critical.

y Plant the pole's tip securely between yourfeet, preferably a bit forward of the line between them. (On

slippery surfaces, the arch ofyourrightfoot makes a good stop, but with my ball head, the resulting pole

slant limits my ability to level shots in vertical format.)

y Lean the monopod forward and to the leftuntil it rests on the inside of the leftthigh. Ifyour monopod's

flexible, bend it around the thigh to stiffen it up.

y Hold the camera with yourrighthand.*

y Use the still-free lefthand to make needed camera orfilter adjustments, then grasp the pole with the left

elbow held tightly against the chest.

y Fine-tune framing through the LCD as needed, but shoot through the viewfinder with the camera held

firmly against the brow.

y Depress the shutter halfway and steady up again.

y Take a breath, release ~30% of it and hold it there for a moment.

y Gently squeeze off the shot when stillness happens.

* The flexibility ofmy hiking staffis a bit ofa disadvantage here, but if I preload the pole by flexing it around my

left thigh, it stiffens up enough to make the thigh support worthwhile.

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Make Like a Tripod

The technique I used before tumbling to Jed's forms a balanced tripod consisting of the pole and my own two legs. It

doesn't damp out side-to-side motion nearly as well, but with practice, it works:

y Arrange a comfortable, well-balanced square stance with feet well apart. (Again, the stance and footing are

critical.)

y Plant the pole's tip dead ahead about 3 feet in front ofyour toes.

y Lean forward onto the monopod head with some weight.

y Take the shot as above.

The more weight on the pole, the better. With my left little, ring and middle fingers gripping the base of the ball

head, I can transfer considerable weight to the pole and still have thumb and forefingerfree to work the ball head

lever.

Bracing, Tethering and Sitting

Any external support you can arrange for your monopod will improve steadiness tremendously.

Bracing

When I hike with 2 poles, I find it helpful to arrange the 2nd pole to act as a strut in whatever direction seems least

steady. It's usually fairly easy to grab and hold both poles in one hand.

An elbow planted on an immovable object like a wall, tree, column, table, counter or railing really damps out

camera motion, with or without a monopod. Since residual side-to-side movements and yawing rotations remain my

biggest problems with a monopod, I find side-bracing most effective. Holding the monopod tightly against anavailable railing with one hand works nicely, too. In a pinch, bracing against a friend is often better than nothing.

Tethering

Tethering the camera by pushing it forward against a taut neck strap damps camera rotations and virtually eliminates

fore-and-aft movements. This is especially helpful with macro, telephoto and other shots requiring LCDframing.

The monopod takes out up-and-down movements and rolling and pitching rotations. Pay extra attention to the 2 least

constrained degrees offreedomright-to-left movements and yawing rotations.

Sitting

Sitting with the pole appropriately shortened substantia

lly improves steadiness, especially i

fyou can brace an elbowor two on your knees or on a chair arm.

All 6 degrees of freedom can be tightly constrained by sitting with a monopod with the camera against

your brow and both elbows on your knees.

For macro shots, sitting and tethering with elbows on knees is also a very steady combination.

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Sitting eliminates the inadvertent knee and ankle movements that constitute my greatest remaining sources of

motion in standing shots. Sitting is especially effective on hillsides, on uneven terrain, or anywhere a stable stance is

hard to come by.

BallHead

A simple, quick, flexible ball head provides all the degrees ofaiming freedom necessary to achieve a proper pole

plant with any desired camera orientation. Be sure to get a ball head that tilts to 90 to allow shots in vertical

format.

A panning base on the ball head helps occasionally by permitting right-left rotations of the camera relative to the

pole, but it's by no means an essential feature. I haven't tried it, but I'd bet a pan-tilt head would be slower and

clumsier than a ball head on a monopod.

Afoot

Walking with a camera-bearing pole in the usual fashion risks jarring the delicate zoom lens mechanism, but I

don't hesitate to carry a camera-bearing pole over my shoulder. Thanks to the QR camera mount, however, mounting

and dismounting the camera is simple enough. At 6'1" with long legs, my ideal walking and shooting heights differ a

bit, but I've been able to find a comfortable compromise that eliminates all but occasional pole length adjustments.

Quick-Release Heaven

The well-designed, safe and easy-to-use QR makes mounting and dismounting the camera a snapliterally. The

spring-loaded latch conveniently cocks open when pulled backfully on dismounting the camera. Then the mere act

of reseating the camera plate in the QR shoe depresses a button that automatically and positively secures the latch.

Very slick. With the camera strapped around my neck, this becomes a one-hand operationprovided I've

remembered to cock the latch. (Unfortunately, I'm no better at forming new good habits than I am at kicking old bad

ones.Why else would I need a lens cap tether?)

The camera plate's flanged non-skid plastic liner is reversible in case the flange fails to clear the back edge of the

camera with the camera screw fully forward in its adjustment slot, but this isn't an issue with Camedia cameras. The

camera plate comes offnow only for battery changes.

Stabilizing The Photographer

Beyond the added camera support, hiking poles provides added support and balance for the photographer when the

footing gets uncertainno small comfort when there's an expensive camera dangling from the neck.

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As an aid to walking, hiking poles have many virtues, including

y spreading locomotion and balance burdens away from the lower extremities,

y providing ready 3- or 4-point balance, and

y reducing shock on feet and knees, especially on downhills.

I find a single pole much better than none, but I prefer 2 poles for serious walking. Singly or in pairs, hiking poles

noticeably ease walking moment-to-moment, especially when there's vertical movement involved, even though your

total energy expenditure will generally be greater with than without a pole.

The built-in shock absorbers on my Komperdell poles add welcome comfort, particularly on hard surfaces. The

internal spring in the older pole pictured above sings with each plant on rock or pavement, my newer pole is fairly

quiet. The small mud baskets supplied with my poles limit soft ground sink-in well enough (maybe I'll install some

on the dogs), but snow requires larger baskets. The carbide tips provide decent purchase on pavement and slick rock,

but ifyou value yourfloors, you'll keep them covered with rubber safety caps indoors.

Straps?

For rock scrambling and other two-handed moments on the trail, I elected to add a homemadedetachable shoulder strap to my hiking pole, as illustrated above. Carrying the collapsed poleacross the back gets it nicely out ofthe way during bushwhacks. Carrying it rifle-style on oneshoulder in an airport could get you shot.

It's All in the Wrist

Most hiking poles come with a wrist strap, ostensibly to keep hiker and pole together, but much

more importantly to transfer the downstroke load to the large triceps muscle via the bones oftheforearm. The wrist strap largely eliminates the grasping work done by the smaller and moreeasily fatigued muscles of the hand and forearm. Cross-country skiers know this trick well.

My added upper strap mount could easily accommodate a replacement wrist strap, but I just loopand lock the shoulder strap around my wrist as shown above to regain the weight-transferadvantage.

See The Walking Stickfor more details on hiking pole pros, cons, options and considerations.

Tripods

When the situation calls for more support than a monopod can deliver, most photographers turn to a tripod. Tripods

are much less portable than a monopod, but they're hands-free. Flimsy tripods are often better than nothing, but

solidity is the hallmark ofa good tripod. Unfortunately, with solidity comes weight.

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Ofall the tripods I've owned, the Bogen 3021 is by far the sturdiest and most versatile. The 3021 is rated for 13

pound loads. Its reversible center post and widely spreading legs allow macro shots right down on the ground. A

Bogen 3038 Super Mono Ball Head (26 pound rating) usually sits atop my 3021. The 3038's ball is a bit sticky, but I

get a lot ofuse out of the quick release and the biplane spirit levels built into its platform. At around 9 pounds

together, the 3021 and 3038 are heavy enough to keep me switching shoulders over a mile's walk. At 32 inches

collapsed, they fit nicely in a shoulder-strapped nylon bag that came with a folding camp chair. The 3021 and 3028

are both overbuilt for my featherweight Oly C-2020Z, particularly the latter, but my next camera may well beheavier.

What About Later Camedia Rangefinders and the C-2100UZ?

By all accounts, the image-stabilized 10x (38-380 mm) zoom lens on the C-2100UZ allows handholding well

beyond the bounds of the 1/f35 rule, but how far beyond, I don't know.

I'm no expert on all ofways later rangefinders and the C-2100UZ depart from the C-20x0Z, but I'm unaware of

any other differences pertinent to this article. Ifyou find anything that doesn'tfit, please let me know at

[email protected].

References and Links

(beyond those listed in this site's Links)

Rowell, Galen, Mountain Light, 2nd ed., Yolla Bolly Press, Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1995.

photo.net tripod pagean instructive discussion ofcamera support.

The Walking Stickall about walking sticks.

How to use a monopodthe best monopod technique I've seen to date, in one ofseveral useful photography articles

by JedWee.

B&H Photos' Camera Support Pagevery useful, detailed information on a wide selection ofcamera support gear,including monopods, ball heads and quick-release adapters offered at good prices.

REI Hiking Monopod Page2 hiking poles with monopod mounts.

Kirk Photolots ofmonopods and other camera support gear, including monopods, ball heads and QR mounts,

generally at the high end.

Really Right StuffQuality Arca Swiss-style QR mounts.

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How To Use The Monopod

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