A CFD Model for Wave Transformations and Breaking in the Surf Zone
How to Surf a Wave
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How To Surf A Wave
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Transcript of How to Surf a Wave
How To Surf A Wave
Riding waves with my friends is fun!
First I need a surfboard and leash
I need to put the leash on my ankle and go in the ocean
When I am in the water, I will lay on my surfboard, on my stomach.
I will then begin to paddle further out in the ocean
I will now sit on my board and look for a good wave!
When I see a good wave I will begin to paddle back toward the shore
When I feel the wave pushing me I push on my board with my hands and start to stand up
I will quickly pull my knees to my chest and stand up!
Now ride the wave!