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It’s not just the resource sector that’s booming in Perth: a vibrant new

drinking and dining culture is changing the way the west is fed and watered.

Seafaring and seasonal at

Rockpool Bar & Grill, Perth

words MAx VeeNhuyzeN photography RobeRT FRiTh

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How tHe West

was won

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Carolynne and hadleigh troy don’t know what is crazier: the fact they held an all-dessert degustation at their lauded east perth diner, restaurant amusé, or that the event sold out in days with a waiting list big enough to fill a week of encore performances.

while dishes such as bite-sized gin and tonic trifles, bee pollen milkshakes and smoky hay custard afforded guests immediate gratification, the night’s success carried with it inklings of some-thing even sweeter: the city’s attitude to food and drink as a whole.

when the troys opened amusé back in 2007, dining out was virtually confined to Fridays and saturdays. hadleigh admits he reckoned on needing to keep only a skeleton kitchen team on during the week (five years on and amusé is invariably booked out every night, tuesday to saturday). these days, with locals exposed to travel and the globe-shrinking power of the internet, perth has embraced a vibrant eating and drinking culture that’s au fait with national and global trends.

a shift towards more casual dining including – gasp – options on sundays? Check. Chefs courageously pursuing their own cooking ideas utilising local produce? Check. Idiosyncratic bars big on personality and choice? Check, check, check.

even out-of-towners want in on the action, starting with Neil perry, who opened a western rockpool bar & grill outpost in 2010. he has since been joined at the Crown perth complex by other high-profile restaurateurs including Nobu matsuhisa (Nobu, 08 9362 7551) and guillaume brahimi (bistro guillaume, set to open its doors later this year).

“I could see the emergence of this new dining culture in perth,” says perry of the rockpool venture. “the time seemed right to launch a large-scale restaurant offering great atmosphere, food, service and wine. so far, that hunch seems to be working.”

Cinnamon rose quail with wood-roasted pumpkin, beans and pomegranate at Pata Negra (left); Restaurant Amusé (below)

the city itself is a flurry of activity with the skyline-changing City square on st georges terrace something of a hub, at least for locals scott and angie taylor. Just as the siblings’ cafe/ gourmet/deli beaufort street merchant (488 beaufort street, highgate, 08 9328 6299) helped put the inner-city neighbour-hoods of highgate and mount Lawley on the food map, scott is hoping the taylors’ newest venue, the trustee bar & bistro, will be similarly influential in the Cbd.

they’re not on their own, either, what with allies such as the rapidly improving sentinel bar & grill (111 st georges terrace, 08 6103 0507) and soon-to-open print hall (brookfield place) in the vicinity. “being surrounded by good neighbours is something we learned on beaufort street,” he says. “back in the day, people would come to must winebar (519 beaufort street, 08 9328 8255) because it was the only good venue on the strip. Now, people come to beaufort street as a precinct. If you can’t get into must, then you go across to Clarences (see below), up to Cantina 663 (663 beau-fort street, 08 9370 4883) or down to us. there’s a wealth of not only great venues, but great characters who operate them.”

Locals and visitors alike will want to get to know this vibrant collection of characters at the forefront of the west’s food frontier.

perth FiNe diNiNg

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rockpool bar & grillCrown Perth, Great Eastern Highway, Victoria Park. (08) 6252 1900. rockpool.com.au It’s the Neil perry luxe steakhouse we all know and love, only with a West aussie twang. While head chef Dan Masters thrills with charcoal-roasted crab and a golden pie of pulled Jarrahdene pork, gun sommelier richard healy ensures riedel glasses remain topped up with the good stuff. Flying solo or feel like something more casual? the bar does a great line in cocktails, classy finger food and more substantial fare, such as the house-made chorizo hot dog with jalapeño hot sauce.

pata Negra 26 Stirling Highway, Nedlands. (08) 9389 5517. www.patanegra.com.au It’s Spanish for “black foot”. out west, it’s perth’s best tapas joint. But while there’s plenty of Madrid in the menu, it’s the whispers of Marrakesh, Morocco and all things Moorish that best define Kurt Sampson’s food, the barbecued quail with Baharat spices a case in point. Don’t miss the immensely satisfying churros with pedro Ximénez ice-cream.

dear Friends100 Benara Road, Caversham.(08) 9279 2815. www.dearfriends.com.au chef Kiren Mainwaring pays homage to his surrounds with produce-driven dishes such as house-made cheese with nettles and ajo blanco. Keeping step with her husband, restaurant manager Kelli Mainwaring ensures Swan Valley wines feature prominently.

the trustee bar & bistro133 St Georges Terrace, Perth.(08) 6323 3000. thetrustee.com.au While suits flock to the grandiose bar for post-work relief, the best

seats in this two-storey house of food and drink are in the downstairs bistro. From exemplary vitello tonnato to a thick, salted caramel tart lightened up by crème fraîche ice-cream, the cooking is all about rustic peasant flavours.

Izakaya sakura 2/182 James Street, Northbridge.(08) 9328 2525. izakayasakura.com.au across the country, Japan’s izakaya model – shared eating and drinking in a loud, pubby environment – is gaining traction. of the perth contingent, this newcomer is one of the best. go the juicy chicken karaage, sake-steamed clams and slices of earthy kazunoko (dried herring roe). Flasks of sake and shochu are also a must.

greenhouse100 St Georges Terrace, Perth.(08) 9481 8333. www.greenhouseperth.com Born in Melbourne’s Federation Square, raised in perth and about to go global, greenhouse is environmental crusading made fun. yet for all its sustainable, credentials, Joost Bakker’s concept is also thoroughly enjoyable,

eATrestaurant amusé64 Bronte Street, East Perth. (08) 9325 4900. www.restaurantamuse.com.auhometown seasonal produce. Bold combinations. exemplary service. Just three reasons why amusé is the toast of perth’s dining scene. Despite being degustation-only, dietary requirements are imaginatively catered for, so bring an open mind and buckle up: whether it’s creamy chestnut polenta with gooey egg yolk and crisp chicken skin, or the wondrous (albeit unlikely) union of smoked eel, cuttlefish and beetroot, this culinary journey passes through some wild places.

Greenhouse’s Joost Bakker-

designed hanging garden exterior

(right); recycling rules inside (below)

100 Q A N TA S september 201 2

eAT youR ART ouT...

After wining and dining, sate the senses at one of perth’s many Artist-run Initiatives.

read our story on new ArIs atqantas.com/travelinsider

oNliNeespecially at breakfast. Start the day right with spanner crab congee or that day’s brekky pizza.

divido170 Scarborough Beach Road, Mount Hawthorn. (08) 9443 7373. www.divido.com.au Modern, stylish, casual: it’s a compliment payable to both Jason Jujnovich’s Italian cooking and his sleek diner. While the wood-roasted duck is set in stone for good reason, there’s plenty of satisfaction to be had with the vitello tonnato or the day’s unfailingly pleasing pasta special. to to Vietnamese875 Albany Highway, East Victoria Park. (08) 9355 2388.When it comes to multicultural eat streets, few can match it with albany highway. a short drive from

the cBD, this culinary UN is home to everything from value-packed lebanese to vast noodle emporiums. Start your exploring at to to, a fun, high-volume diner that caters to both the shared and every-eater-for-themselves camps, then go wherever your feet and stomach take you.

bivouac198 William Street, Northbridge.(08) 9227 0883. bivouac.com.au equal parts bar, restaurant and art space, Bivouac manages to be both classy and casual. chef Zaki anwar brings bold Mediterranean food to the party; menu items include ras el hanout goat chops and kohlrabi dry-aged sirloin.

rochelle adonis193 Brisbane Street, Northbridge. (08) 9227 0007. www.rochelleadonis.com a former pastry chef at Sydney’s aria, rochelle adonis has taken her sugar-coated show on the road. Fancy treats such as nougat, deluxe lamingtons and salted-caramel everything are available to take away or enjoy in-house with tea or plunger coffee.

dRiNk helveticaHoward Lane, Perth.(08) 9321 4422. helveticabar.com For all of helvetica’s liquid-based fun – cocktails run the gamut from classic to modern with Manhattans available in both textbook and barrel-aged configurations – much of the bar’s charm can be chalked up to the truly engaging staff who understand that the smile is just as important as the drink. Dig whisky? this two-storey speakeasy is home to perth’s finest selection.

el público511 Beaufort Street, Highgate.0418 187 708. elpublico.com.au this airy house of drinking and eating proves Mexican doesn’t have to equal cancun-style madness. a bountiful list of mescals and tequilas promotes sipping rather than shooting, while house-made mixers add pep to zippy cocktails. the kitchen’s input is similarly off-piste: think crisp-fried school prawns and tostada pickled pig’s feet.

399399 William Street, Northbridge. www.399bar.com Since this watering hole opened in 2009, Northbridge has taken to 399 like a proverbial duck to tonic water, and rightly so. the mood is laid-back, the shelves groan under the weight of a dazzling spirit stockpile and bartenders mix cocktails as per guests’ wishes.

andaluz21 Howard Street, Perth.(08) 9481 0092. www.andaluzbar.com.auDon’t mind a side of volume with your jamón? then come on in. andaluz enjoys a steady supply of after-work traffic, the bodies (and racket) increasing markedly towards the non-business end of the week. reflecting the kitchen’s Spanish bent, rioja, sherry and verdejo rule the wine list while the below-ground rabbit warren of rooms is all class.

Lowdown Shop 16a, Cloisters Arcade, Hay Street, Perth. (08) 9226 3041. lowdownespresso.com.au a collaboration between brothers adam and Mark lowes, lowdown espresso bar gracefully debunks

FiNe diNiNg perth

Storm in a teacup cocktail, The Classroom

For airfares call Qantas on 13 13 13 or visit qantas.com. For holiday packages to Perth call Qantas Holidays on 13 14 15.

the myths that (a) coffee in perth is bad, and (b) coffee in perth is expensive, one well-made cup of Joe at a time. a selection of baked goodies serves as the icing on the cake. open weekdays until 5pm.

Clarences566 Beaufort Street, Mount Lawley. (08) 9228 9474. www.clarences.com.auIn a neighbourhood not exactly hard-up for drinking spots, this homely bar-cum-restaurant gets our vote for offering something for everyone. a handsomely stocked liquor cabinet translates to great mixed drinks, while a wine list big on boutique names (and house wines made by cult producers such as the Swan Valley’s Bella ridge estate) will please oenophiles. a menu built

around familiar, comforting flavours does little to harm clarences’ appeal.

the Classroom1/356 Charles Street, North Perth. (08) 9444 7729. www.theclassroom.com.aulike the name suggests, North perth’s first small bar is something of a primary school best-of, its playful fit-out taking in everything from indoor netball rings and hopscotch courses to wooden desks and benches. Beyond the fun and games, however, is a top-notch food and drink package with cocktails rating as the bar team’s favourite subject. c

Clarences