Holy Cross MountainHoly Cross Mountain

Not Yet a Fourteener Not Yet a Fourteener August 1961August 1961 6.5 hours up, 5 hours return6.5 hours up, 5 hours return

Now a Fourteener Now a Fourteener September 19, 2006 at age 76September 19, 2006 at age 76 16 hours round trip 16 hours round trip

Holy Cross from SaddleHoly Cross from Saddle

Gary Schott and Emma Jean Gary Schott and Emma Jean Mader at timberlineMader at timberline

Emma Emma Jean Jean andand

CharlesCharlesMaderMader

ononHoly Holy Cross Cross

SummitSummit

Emma Jean Mader on Emma Jean Mader on SummitSummit

Gary SchottGary Schott

Notch Mountain Ridge and Notch Mountain Ridge and ShelterShelter

Notch Mountain and Bowl of TearsNotch Mountain and Bowl of Tears

Ridge Climbed and route from Ridge Climbed and route from SaddleSaddle

9/19/20069/19/2006

Ellingwood PointEllingwood Point

August 8, 1970

3.5 hr backpack to Lake Como from Jeep

3.5 hr to Summit by West Ridge – the technical way to summit

1.5 hr back to Camp by East Route – Ellingwood – Blanca ridge

2 hr backpack back to Jeep

Ellingwood PointEllingwood Point

Ellingwood West RidgeEllingwood West Ridge

Blanca Blanca from from

EllingwooEllingwood d

Point Point SummitSummit

Charles Mader and Roy Greiner on Charles Mader and Roy Greiner on Ellingwood SummitEllingwood Summit

Blanca – Little Bear Ridge from Blanca – Little Bear Ridge from East of Ellingwood descent routeEast of Ellingwood descent route

Lake Como – camped at treesLake Como – camped at trees

Challenger PointChallenger Point

On route climbed to get to Kit Carson On route climbed to get to Kit Carson before it had a name other than before it had a name other than “another damn false summit.”“another damn false summit.”

20082008List of List of 14ers14ersfromfrom

14ers.com14ers.com

Colorado 14ers Locations

HistoryHistory

The mountain climbers lived in Los Alamos, New The mountain climbers lived in Los Alamos, New Mexico and were scientists at the Los Alamos Mexico and were scientists at the Los Alamos Scientific Laboratory. Most of the climbers had Scientific Laboratory. Most of the climbers had college degrees in Chemistry, Physics or Math. The college degrees in Chemistry, Physics or Math. The results of recent experiments were often the results of recent experiments were often the climbing conversation topic.climbing conversation topic.

Of the main climbers, Dean Taylor, Gary Schott, Don Of the main climbers, Dean Taylor, Gary Schott, Don Bunker, Joe Bubernak had PhD degrees in Bunker, Joe Bubernak had PhD degrees in Chemistry. Only Don Bunker and Liz Marshall were Chemistry. Only Don Bunker and Liz Marshall were married. married.

Six or more hours of automobile travel time was Six or more hours of automobile travel time was required to get to the base of the mountains. The required to get to the base of the mountains. The cars had only rear wheel drive. Jeeps were rented cars had only rear wheel drive. Jeeps were rented at gas stations near the mountains when needed. at gas stations near the mountains when needed.

HistoryHistory

The only route information available was The only route information available was that in the original Ormes “Guide to that in the original Ormes “Guide to Colorado Mountains” The topo maps Colorado Mountains” The topo maps were seldom of any help. Trails were were seldom of any help. Trails were mostly mining or animal ones.mostly mining or animal ones.

Seldom was anyone else climbing or Seldom was anyone else climbing or camping at the base site. Many of the camping at the base site. Many of the registers were placed there by the registers were placed there by the earliest climbers with Ellingwood often earliest climbers with Ellingwood often being the first name. being the first name.

HistoryHistory

Route finding was a challenge and Route finding was a challenge and often when one route did not “go” or often when one route did not “go” or the weather became marginal, it was the weather became marginal, it was necessary to return to camp and necessary to return to camp and come back another weekend.come back another weekend.

Base camp was often the nearest Base camp was often the nearest motel and those peaks that were motel and those peaks that were climbed from a motel were called climbed from a motel were called “Mader Horns”.“Mader Horns”.

HistoryHistory

Being the only climbers or hikers on the Being the only climbers or hikers on the mountains and no outside mountains and no outside communication available, safety of the communication available, safety of the party was the major concern. If party was the major concern. If someone in the party could not or did someone in the party could not or did not want to continue – everyone not want to continue – everyone returned. Three climbers was the returned. Three climbers was the smallest group on any of the climbs. smallest group on any of the climbs. The idea was if anyone was hurt, one The idea was if anyone was hurt, one would go for help and the other one would go for help and the other one stay with the injured party.stay with the injured party.

HistoryHistory

A 120 ft nylon climbing rope was A 120 ft nylon climbing rope was carried on most trips and each carried on most trips and each climber had their own carabineer and climber had their own carabineer and a piece of rope to make a “Swiss a piece of rope to make a “Swiss Seat” for repelling. Every climber Seat” for repelling. Every climber could do a body repel and do a could do a body repel and do a dynamic belay. Pitons were used for dynamic belay. Pitons were used for tie in points for belays and upper tie in points for belays and upper anchors for repel ropes.anchors for repel ropes.

HistoryHistory

While the climbers practiced the self arrest While the climbers practiced the self arrest using an ice axe, if there was any hazard, using an ice axe, if there was any hazard, descent down snow or ice fields were descent down snow or ice fields were always done belayed with one or more ice always done belayed with one or more ice axes used to anchor the belayer.axes used to anchor the belayer.

Often regardless of any self arrest effort, the Often regardless of any self arrest effort, the descent was brought to an end only by descent was brought to an end only by the of the rope. the of the rope.

The party moved on a rope only if the rope The party moved on a rope only if the rope was being belayed or attached to the was being belayed or attached to the mountain.mountain.

HistoryHistory

In the early 1950’s the climbing equipment was In the early 1950’s the climbing equipment was mostly WW II surplus. It was very heavy.mostly WW II surplus. It was very heavy.

Nylon rope became available and had the advantage Nylon rope became available and had the advantage of stretching under load resulting in an automatic of stretching under load resulting in an automatic dynamic belay.dynamic belay.

The Vibram boot sole was developed. The Vibram boot sole was developed. Dacron fiber was developed for clothing which was Dacron fiber was developed for clothing which was

windproof and water repellent.windproof and water repellent.Goretex fiber was not available until the 1960’sGoretex fiber was not available until the 1960’sBackpacks placed all the weight on the shoulders. The Backpacks placed all the weight on the shoulders. The

waist belt was not available until the 1960’swaist belt was not available until the 1960’sLightweight sleeping bags and tents were not Lightweight sleeping bags and tents were not

available.available.

HistoryHistory

The small backpacking Primus gasoline The small backpacking Primus gasoline stove became available as did early stove became available as did early versions of dried food.versions of dried food.

Water in the mountains was Water in the mountains was considered safe to drink without considered safe to drink without treatment. Only one canteen was treatment. Only one canteen was carried as it could be filled at the carried as it could be filled at the streams. Salt tablets were carried streams. Salt tablets were carried and considered essential to replace and considered essential to replace body salt lost during climbing.body salt lost during climbing.

HistoryHistory

Improvements in climbing and Improvements in climbing and backpacking equipment were made by backpacking equipment were made by the Holubars and Gerry -initially small the Holubars and Gerry -initially small mail order home based, family mail order home based, family operations in Boulder.operations in Boulder.

REI of Seattle was started and initially a REI of Seattle was started and initially a source of cheap, low quality, often source of cheap, low quality, often Japanese copies of US military gear and Japanese copies of US military gear and home made pitons, wooded handle ice home made pitons, wooded handle ice axes, and even manila climbing ropes.axes, and even manila climbing ropes.

HistoryHistory

In the 1950’s, the center of mountain climbing was In the 1950’s, the center of mountain climbing was in the Alps with Zermatt and its climbing and in the Alps with Zermatt and its climbing and skiing guides being the gold standard.skiing guides being the gold standard.

Custom made leather Molitar climbing and ski Custom made leather Molitar climbing and ski boots made in Wegen, Switzerland were work of boots made in Wegen, Switzerland were work of master craftsmen as was the other Swiss climbing master craftsmen as was the other Swiss climbing gear.gear.

Los Alamos mountaineering and skiing scientists Los Alamos mountaineering and skiing scientists became clients of the Zermatt ski instructor and became clients of the Zermatt ski instructor and climbing guide, Eddie Petrig. Petrig was also a climbing guide, Eddie Petrig. Petrig was also a ski instructor at Sun Valley and was featured on a ski instructor at Sun Valley and was featured on a magazine cover. Climbs guided by Eddie Petrig magazine cover. Climbs guided by Eddie Petrig are described in the PowerPoint ZERMATT.PPT. are described in the PowerPoint ZERMATT.PPT. He taught safe climbing techniques that reduced He taught safe climbing techniques that reduced the grim Los Alamos mountaineering death toll.the grim Los Alamos mountaineering death toll.

Eddie Petrig – 1958 - guiding on Zermatt Gorner Glacier