Holiday Preview

2 Friday, November 13, 2009 The Southern Illinoisan

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Sweet to the tongue and smooth downthe throat, amber honey is a belovedaddition to the holidays. See for yourselfwhy the golden treat brightenstraditions, enhances recipes and can adda warm glow to your holiday table.

History of honeyHoney is the world’s oldest sweetener.

Its association with holiday traditionbegan hundreds of years ago. Theextraction of honey occurs in late fall,forging a connection between honey andthe bountiful harvest celebrations ofThanksgiving and the winter holidays

that closely follow.Honey’s rural roots may offer another

explanation for its holiday popularity.Cheap, plentiful and produced close athand, honey was a practical sweetener.“Since honey has been enjoyed in ruralareas for many years, the associationgoes back again to the traditional roles inthe house,” says Bruce Wolk, NationalHoney Board. “The housewife wouldoften make cookies, cakes, candies andbreads using various honey recipes andthese recipes were handed down.”

It is also linked with a number ofreligious traditions, including Judaismand Islam. In Judaism, Israel is called theland of milk and honey. Honey is alsomentioned in the Quran, particularly itsmedicinal benefits. But Wolk says muchof its significance comes from honey’sbasic nature.

“There’s a warmth and familiarity ofhaving honey on the table,” Wolk says.

“It’s a universal ingredient that is

Spoonfulgoldof

We’ve celebrated the holidayswith honey for centuries –

and never has the sweetindulgence seemed so new.

HOLIDAY PREVIEW

highly prized all over theworld.”

Honied sweets in ItalyDuring Christmas,

smells of Struffoli, orhoney balls, waft frombusy kitchens. The sweetNeapolitan dessert offried dough dipped inhoney and sprinkles hasbeen passed down formany years, according toHedy Taranto, author of“Mangia, It’s Good forYou,” (BookSurge, 2008).Some think the dessert’ssignificance may comefrom the scarcity of sugarduring wartime. Tarantosays its use may just be atradition rather thanhaving definite meaning.“Supposedly atChristmas eating theStruffoli improves thequality of life – or so itgoes,” she says. Skeptical?Try out this recipe fromTaranto’s book and decidefor yourself!

Honeycombfor your table

Eat honeycomb likecandy, spread it on breador serve it with cheese.Fancy restaurants pairhoneycomb with anassortment of cheeses, asimple dessert plate thatis beautiful and deeplysatisfying. For yourholiday party, serve alarge piece of honeycomb– locally harvested, if youcan find it – on a woodencheese board or holidayplatter. Supply plenty ofsmall spreading knivesand let guests slice offtheir own tastes. Tryhoneycomb with bluecheese, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, Feta and goatcheese. Serve withcrackers, a baguette orapple slices. And plentyof napkins.

Michael Schwartz,owner and chef ofMichael’s Genuine Food& Drink, Miami, Fla.,

receives rave reviews forhis honeycomb creation.He serves a golden dollopof honeycomb with acheese of the week, suchas La Tur, an Italian softcheese made from goat,cow and sheep’s milk.Guests order it as anappetizer or, as cheese isclassically served, afterdinner. Schwartzpurchases the local honeyfrom Paradise Farms,Homestead, Fla. The dish“is just a perfectcombination,” he says. “Iget a kick out of it whensuppliers try to sell mehoney from places likeNew Zealand. Why wouldI buy honey from NewZealand when I can get itright here?”

A sweet New YearJewish sacred text

depicts Israel as the landof milk and honey – thePromised Land and sweetend to a difficult desertjourney. These days,honey remains animportant part of RoshHashanah, the JewishNew Year celebration. RozMarks, author of “JewishBoot Camp: The ModernGirl’s Guide to CookingLike a JewishGrandmother” (ThreeForks, 2009), says Jewstraditionally fast for a 24-hour period prior to thenew year to go to temple,pray and atone for sins.They then break the fastwith something special,such as honey cake.

“My mother alwayssaid, don’t eat anythinguntil you have had a pieceof honey cake becauseyou need to start off theyear sweet,” Marks says.

“You have two choices:you can either dip applesin honey or have honeycake.”

Marks says honey is animportant symbol of hopein the Jewish holiday. Andas a self-proclaimed “big

holiday person,” itbecame essential for herto pass the tradition toher children and tell themof its meaning – even forthose who prefer othersweets.

“I can’t think of anyonewho doesn’t break fastwith honey cake, even ifyou don’t like it,” shesays.

Types of honeyDon’t just run off with

the first honey bear yousee this holiday season.Savor the search. Likewines, honey can containmany flavors, such ascitrus, butter, blueberryand mint. Dark honeystend to have stronger,spicier flavors and be fullof antioxidants. Lighterhoney tends to have themildest flavor. “If you arenew to honey tasting youmay want to start youradventures here,” saysNancy Ostiguy, associateprofessor of entomologyat Penn State University.

There are more than300 varieties of honey inthe U.S. alone. Honeyproduced in eachgeographic regioncontains unique flavorsderived from the types offlowers and plants it’sharvested from. Honeyfrom Texas can tasteremarkably different fromhoney in North Carolina.Ostiguy says she enjoyssome of the rarerAmerican honeys, such asTupelo, Sourwood andBasswood.

For a unique island flair,especially for thoseneeding a little warmthduring the winterholidays, Ostiguysuggests Original WhiteKiawe honey fromHawaii. The naturallycreamy variety combinesa tropical flavor with athick, buttery texture. “Irecommend eating it bythe spoonful,” Ostiguy

says. “It’s too expensiveand too delicious tocombine with anything.”

Bee friendlyAlong with an organic

garden, the Obama familyhas installed beehives onthe White House lawn,inspiring amateurbeekeepers nationwide.Beekeeping hasexperienced an up tick inpopularity, particularly incities, where urbandwellers quietly tuckbeehives on roofs.Undeterred by asphaltand concrete, the insectscarry on honey making asusual.

Why not track downlocal honey for yourtable? Chances are,beehives are closer thanyou think. Check theHoney Locator at theNational Honey Board:www.honeylocator.com.

The Southern Illinoisan Friday, November 13, 2009 3

HOLIDAY PREVIEW

Struffoli

Mix all ingredients together except for honey andsprinkles. Roll into mini-sized round balls. Set aside.

Place a 4-quart heavy bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Heat the oil to 330 degrees. Check thetemperature with a candy thermometer. It is important tomaintain the temperature. If the oil is too cool, the Struffoliwill absorb too much oil before they finish frying. Theyshould be a light golden brown.

When you are finished frying the balls, place them in alarge container with a paper towel to drain oil and cool.

Heat about two cups of honey in saucepan, placeStruffoli in pan and cover with honey.

Pour into a decorative bowl and shake on coloredsprinkles.

Makes 6 to 8 dozen balls, depending on the size.

3 cups flour3 tablespoons Crisco3 teaspoons baking

powder1/2 cup of sugar

4 eggs3 pound jar of honeyColored sprinklesOil for frying

TTOO FFIINNDD LLOOCCAALL HHOONNEEYY:: In Southern Illinois, local honeycan be purchased in many supermarkets, orchard retailshops and farmers’ markets.


Do seasonal festivitieshave you in a dither? Grabone of these classicholiday movies and gatherthe clan. There’s no betterway to lift spirits allaround than to laughyourself to tears.

No matter who stars,how improbable theirplight or twisted the plot,the best holiday moviesbear tidings of great joy:You can survive theseason. After all, they did.

Home Alone (1990):Young Kevin McCallister(Macaulay Culkin) is leftbehind as his familyrushes to make a flight toParis for their wintervacation. Mayhem ensues

when a couple ofbumbling burglars try tobreak into the McCallisterhouse, but Kevin’s boobytraps prove better thanany state-of-the-artalarm system.

Takeaway: Holidaytravelers, pack well inadvance, set a battery-powered alarm clock asbackup and leave for theairport early. And countthe kids before departure– twice.

Son-in-Law (1993):South Dakota country girlgoes to big city, meetscrazy California kook.Brings him home forThanksgiving break toavoid an engagement to

her small-townboyfriend. Familyconquers xenophobia,falls in love with his crazyantics, sense of fashionand renegade streak. OverThanksgiving dinner, hischivalry wins out.

Takeaway: Sometimesthe holidays can bringtogether people ofdifferent backgroundsand persuasions, so if thathappens to you, be warmand inviting like theWarners. Make sure youhave room at the tableand plenty of food for anylast-minute additions.And wipe that gravy off ofbaby’s lip. You don’t wantthose guests to think youboorish.

When Harry Met Sally...(1989): The penultimate momentof this iconic rom-comoccurs at a New Year’sparty when Sally (MegRyan) realizes shemisses Harry (BillyCrystal) and wants himby her side.

Yes, sometimes it gets alittle sappy, but it’s alove-me-tender flick thatdoesn’t take itself tooseriously.

Takeaway: Surroundyourself with those youlove and don’t sweat thesmall stuff. Make sure youknow what the specialtyis of whatever deli youenter in New York.

The Hebrew Hammer(2003):This Shaft-meets-AustinPowers Jewishblaxploitation parody pitsHanukkah and Kwanzaaversus Christmas in abattle for the right for theholidays to exist.Mordechai JeffersonCarver (Adam Goldberg)is the Hebrew Hammer, aformer Israelisoldier/special agent whouses a tart style anddevout faith to guide himin his private investigativefirm. Damian Claus (AndyDick) grows tired of hisfather’s liberal ways, so hekills him and usurps thethrone to eliminate

Somebody hit thelights; it’s high timefor a little holidaymovie mayhem.

Hanukkah, the Jewishfestival of lights.

Takeaway: PerhapsDamian could have madea better effort to educatehimself on others’cultures so he could learnto respect and enjoy theirholidays. The season ismuch richer with anunderstanding ofHanukkah, Kwanzaa andother festivals.

Elf (2003): Will Ferrellstars as Buddy Elf, a Santastowaway who grows upas the rare 6’3” elf, neversuspecting he is actually ahuman. When he goes toNew York to discover histrue self, he brings hiselfish Christmas spiritwith him.

Takeaway: Buddy’s rawadoration for the holidayseason will lift anyhumbug’s mood. After all,it’s not about the too-expensive gifts or fancyparties. It’s aboutenjoying the warmth offamily and friends. Isthere a Scrooge in yourlife? Befriend him.Individual tender, lovingcare and offers forinvolvement might just dothe trick, so ask them tobring a dish to dinner orhelp you set up yourholiday decorations.

Die Hard (1988): Perhapsthe most classic actionfilm of all time, Die Hard’sfoil-the-terrorist plotmakes it easy to forgetthat a Christmas Eveoffice party serves as thesetting for Bruce Willis’heroics.

Takeaway: Consruct abullet-proof invite list.Make sure your guestsdon’t invite their ownfriends without running itby you first. Shouldunwanted guests arriveand endeavor to take overyour home, be diplomaticand welcoming. Holidayparty drop-ins are part ofthe season.

HOLIDAY PREVIEW

‘HOME ALONE’ IMAGE COURTESY 20TH CENTURY FOX ENTERTAINMENTIn the movie ‘Home Alone,’ young Kevin McCallister (Macaulay Culkin) is left behind as his family rushes to make a flight to Paris for their winter vacation.

Movies rescueto the !


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T ired of the same old bird for theholidays? Give your turkey an extrememakeover by taking the cooking – and

the party – outside.While cooking meals from scratch has

been on the decline in time-pressed families,grilling is on the rise, according to NPDGroup, the Port Washington, N.Y. marketresearch company. Men, who are cookingmore than ever, are responsible for 13percent of all meal preparation – much of iton the grill. Maybe this is the year to taketurkey preparation outside.

“A turkey smoke-roasted on the grill tastesbetter, thanks to the smoke flavor,” saysSteve Raichlen, author of “The BarbecueBible” and “How to Grill” (WorkmanPublishing) and host of the PBS series PrimalGrill. “It frees up your oven for other dishes.It gives you an excuse to spend the afternoon

outdoors, gathered around the grill drinkingbeer or wine with your buddies.”

And get ready for the “oohs” and “aaahs”when you present a turkey smoked toperfection: “a gorgeous, plump, mahoganycolored bird – the skin crackling crisp, themeat tender and juicy, the whole shebangperfumed with wood smoke,” says Raichlen.

“Guests are totally amazed because theywould never guess that a whole turkey can becooked outdoors,” says Dave DeWitt, editorof Fiery-Foods.com, the Fiery Foods andBarbecue Web site. “Grilling and smokingare generally becoming more and morepopular, so people apply them to the variousholidays as they see fit.”

Among the options for cooking a turkeyoutdoors are grilling, rotisserie and smokingin a Big Green Egg, a ceramic smoker.DeWitt favors the rotisserie method

“because it’s so versatile, you don’t need toworry about flipping the meat over, like youwould with grilling, the heat is even and youdon’t have to tend to it very much.”

Raichlen favors cooking a whole turkey inthe Big Green Egg or on the charcoal grill,which he says “is best for the reason that it’seasy to smoke on a charcoal grill and verydifficult to smoke on a gas grill.” (SeeRaichlen’s recipe, below).

Both suggest using the proper tools to cookyour bird and avoiding common mistakes.Here are several of their tips to cooking yourturkey outdoors:

Assemble your toolsRaichlen suggests a barbecue injector,

which enables you to inject some of the

Smoking the holiday turkey on the grill is great theater with delicious results; even the traditionalists will approve.Grill the bird?

SEE GRILLED / PAGE 7

HOLIDAY PREVIEW

TEA FORTÉExotic teas make a great base for no-alcohol party drinks.

HOLIDAY PREVIEW


A good party host continuallycircles the room, revs upconversations teetering onawkward silences and managespesky behind-the-scenesoperations. He or she has touphold the no-guest-left-behind policy. Still, the mostattentive host can easily leaveguests feeling out of place whennon-alcoholic beverages aren’tprovided.

“As the host or hostess, there’sa good chance that there’s goingto be somebody there that

doesn’t want to drink for somereason,” says Elizabeth Scott,professional chef and author of“Zero-proof Cocktails: Alcohol-free Beverages for EveryOccasion,” (Ten Speed Press,2009) “Normally, what happensto those people is that they endup in the corner with their dietsoda.”

Scott has witnessed anincreasing trend among foodprofessionals to acknowledgehealth restrictions and varyingpreferences of consumers. “I

think as asociety,maybe we’rebecoming alittle morehealthconscious,”she says.Mocktails letparty-attendeeswho areavoidingalcohol orjust countingcaloriesaround theholidaysknow thatyou intend toput everyonein a festivemood.Considerthesegarnishesand low-octaneingredientsas you stockup on

holiday spirits.

Twist and shoutCocktail Infusions boast great

garnishes, but a quick-and-easyaddition may be a fruit skewer.

“Fruit is always great … itadds interest and color,” Scottsays. She also recommendsgarnishing drinks with theirmore unusual ingredients for anexotic twist.

You can also use citrus fruitpeels for decoration. Take azester or a channel knife andpeel around the outside of thefruit for a signature coil of color.

Tea timeBoth tea and wine have a

substance called tannin, whichcauses puckering when tasted.“When you’re looking to make awine substitute starting with atea is a great idea,” Scott says.Peter Hewitt, owner ofConcord, Mass.-based TeaForté, created Tea CocktailInfusions in three flavors forcocktails, but the companymarkets mocktail recipes, too.One of Tea Forté’s bubbly drinkideas for the holidays is theVirgin Sunrise Mocktail madewith a lavender citrus teainfuser and seltzer water. Whenthe tea bag is dropped into theglass, flavor fills the glass in apurple cloud. “The purple flowsout. It’s just absolutelybeautiful,” Hewitt says.

Oldies but goodiesSparkling white grape juice

and apple ciders are old favorites

MocktailsSpread good cheer to guests with no-alcohol and tea-based drinks

holidaysfor the

Shampagne CocktailSplash of blood orange bittersSparkling white grape juice, preferably no-

sugar-added, chilledOrange twist, for garnish

Drop the sugar cube into a champagne flute andadd a good splash of bitters to saturate the sugarcube. Slowly pour in the sparkling grape juice andserve garnished with the orange twist.

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for alcohol substitutes mainly because of they’re carbonated andflavorful. Scott suggests a Shampagne Cocktail made withsparkling white grape juice and blood orange bitters as a bubblyalcohol-alternative to ensure that all guests receive a celebratorydrink.

In addition to creating an all-inclusive, festive mood at yourholiday party, providing mocktails at your holiday party savesmoney on the bar tab and lowers the risk of inebriated guests.

Light-alcohol mixes are recommended for Tea Forté’s teacocktails – “It’s not about the alcohol,” Hewitt says. “It’s aboutthe flavor.”

Delectable flavors and eye-catching garnishes for mocktailsand cocktails help everyone feel welcome, and Scott says itultimately “makes the party more of a success.” You’ll fill non-drinkers with cheer when you take the time out to consider theirtaste buds around the holidays.


HOLIDAY PREVIEW

Bourbon-Brined Barbecued TurkeyAdapted from “BBQ USA” by Steven Raichlen (Workman Publishing, 2003)

FFoorr tthhee iinnjjeeccttoorr ssaauuccee::2 tablespoons salted butter1/3 cup chicken stock, room temperature2 tablespoons bourbon1 tablespoon of your favorite barbecue rub

FFoorr tthhee ttuurrkkeeyy::1 turkey (8 to 10 pounds), thawed if frozen

4 tablespoons your favorite barbecue rub1 tablespoon melted butter

YYoouu’’llll aallssoo nneeeedd::A marinade injector3 cups of wood chips, soaked for 1 hour in

water to cover, then drained

1. To make the injector sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan. Add the stock, bourbon andrub and whisk to mix. Let cool to room temperature.

2. Remove the packet of giblets from the neck or body cavity of the turkey and set aside foranother use. Remove and discard the fat just inside the cavities of the turkey. Rinse the turkey,inside and out, under cold running water, then blot dry, inside and out, with paper towels. Season theinside of both cavities with 2 tablespoons of the rub.

3. Fill the injector with the injector sauce. To do this, push the plunger all the way down, place thetip of the needle in the sauce, and slowly draw the plunger up: The syringe will fill with sauce. Injectthe sauce into the turkey breast, thighs, and drumsticks. Don’t be surprised if a little sauce squirtsout; this is OK. Truss the turkey; this is optional, but it will give the bird a more dignified appearance.Brush the outside of the turkey with the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle the remaining 2tablespoons of rub all over it, patting it onto the skin with your fingertips.

4. Set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium. If using a gas grill, place all of thewood chips or chunks in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch and run the grill on high until you seesmoke, then reduce the heat to medium. If using a charcoal grill, place a large drip pan in the center,preheat the grill to medium, then toss 1 cup of the wood chips or chunks on the coals.

5. When ready to cook, place the turkey, breast side up, in the center of the hot grate, over the drippan and away from the heat. Put the lid down and cook the turkey until the skin is nicely brownedand the meat is cooked through, 2 1/2 to 3 hours. To check for doneness, insert an instant-readthermometer in the thickest part of a thigh but not so that it touches the bone. The internaltemperature should be about 165 degrees F. If the wing tips start to burn, cover them loosely withaluminum foil; if the skin starts to brown too much, cover the bird loosely with aluminum foil.

6. Transfer the grilled turkey to a platter, cover it loosely with aluminum foil, if you have not alreadydone so, and let it rest for 10 minutes. Untruss the turkey, if necessary.

Serves 8 to 10.

marinade into the turkey.Consider food gloves forhandling the turkey. BothRaichlen and DeWitt say ameat thermometer isessential. Too high atemperature and theturkey skin will burnbefore the meat is fullycooked; too low atemperature will result inan undercooked turkey.

Smoke ’em outRaichlen prefers natural

lump charcoal, notbriquettes, which can havea chemical taste if notproperly lit. Soak woodchips before placing themon the charcoal once the

ash is well formed.“Most of the flavor

comes from the fat dripsfrom the bird onto the hotcoals or wood, whichinteracts with the smokeand rises to coat the bird,”DeWitt says.

There’s the rubDeWitt likes using a

low-sodium rub on hissmoked turkey. Make yourown rub from paprika,garlic and ground chilipepper. “Salt draws outthe fluids from the turkeyand you want your turkeyas moist as possible,” hesays

Spice up your gravyWhile some experts are

fine with putting a drippan underneath the grill inorder to acquire enough

juice for gravy, DeWittsays carbon particles canend up in the pan.

nstead, he suggestsmaking the gravy on thestovetop inside. Brown theturkey neck and giblets inbutter or oil. Mince theneck and giblets, add themto the pan with some waterand simmer on low toextract the flavors.Thicken with flower orcornstarch. Add chipotlechile powder for color andspice.

Pause before servingBe patient before putting

the bird on the table.“Let the bird rest for 20

minutes before carving tolet the juices redistributethemselves,” Raichlensays. “The bird will bemuch moister.”

GRILLEDFROM PAGE 5


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