History of fashion 1900-1913

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THE EDWARDIAN ERA 1900-1913

Transcript of History of fashion 1900-1913

THE EDWARDIAN ERA1900-1913

Impressionism is a precursor of various painting styles, including Neo-Impression-

ism, Post-Impressionism, Fauvism, and Cubism.

imressionism

an avant-garde art movement. one of the most imortant in modern art.it was develoed by pablo picasso and georges

braques.the cubists challenged conventional

forms of reppresentation. it was an attemt to revitalise the tired

traditions of western art.technological progress, inventions;

photography, cinematography, sound re-codring and the telephone. the airlane

and motor car.first abstract style of modern art.

cubism

Pablo Picasso, 1910, Girl with a Mandolin (Fanny Tellier), oil on canvas, 100.3 x 73.6

cm, Museum of Modern Art, New York

giovanni boldini1842-1931

an italian painter, portraitist and land-scapist. initially boldini practiced with

his father who was also a sculptor and an artist.

attended the academy of fine arts boldini is highly influenced by degas,

monet and sargent.his painting deict the parisian life and el-

egant womenknown as the “master of swish”

his brushstrokes brought about all the energy of the painting alive.

he is the most popular portrait painter of the high society

natalina cavalieri italian opera singer.

Renowned as much for her great beau-ty as for her singing voice, she became one of the most photographed stars

of her time. Frequently referred to as the “world’s most beautiful woman,”

she was part of the tight lacing tradi-tion that saw women use corsetry to

create an “hour-glass” figure.

Avant-garde though he was, Boldini always remained indebted to the six-

teenth-century Italian masters, whose work he had copied assiduously as a

young student and later at the Acad-emy in Florence.

Nudo di donna in grigio Sinfonia in grigio.This work reveals a very different side of Boldini’s art

from the grand society portraiture for which he is best known

philip de laszlo1869-1937

born as fulop laub in budapest, laszlo’s greatest influence was john singer sar-

gent . he was known for painting the elite of

the era,; princess marina, european kings, dukes and more.

it is said laszlo painted in a way such that the portraits “look exactly as they would

like them

Setting his sights on royalty, he targeted the rich and titled, often through their womenfolk. Not all his

work was successful: the portrait of Vita Sackville-West quite misses her

singularity. But that of Elinor Glyn, with cobalt eyebrows to match her jewels and cascading satin, brilliantly conveys the vulgar glamour of the Edwardian age. “Can’t you see the powder on her face?” bitched its first viewers. “And the hair,

plainly dyed! He is so clever.”

john singer sargent1856-1925

during this era sargent was at the height of his fame.

from the very beginning sargents work is seen as highly technical and skilled especisialy due to his ability to draw

using a brush.FROM 1907 ONWARDS HE MADE MORE OF

LANDSCAPES.

ALPHONSO MARIA MUCHA

1860--1939

PAUL HELLEU1859-1927

THE SIGNIFICANT TRENDSETTERS

SOCIAL CHANE OF AMERICAN WOMEN

the gibson girl- charles gibson

S-Shape Pigeon Effect Corset

Actress Camille Clifford who played Gibson Girl in 1904, London.

Hobble Skirt and Hobble Garter

Hobble Garter

tea time outfit

Illustrations of evening gowns worn by women.

Outfits worn by women while cycling.

Hats worn by women during the Edwardian Era.

Man: I’m afraid I can’t hear you.Woman: What did you say?

Man: I didn’t quite hear.Woman: Will speak a little louder.

(Man and woman on the phone)Woman: Beautiful day.Man: Lovely day, isn’t it?

(The only way)

A cartoon by W.K. Haselden in 1910 making fun of the size of a woman’s

hat. (Daily Mirror Newspaper)

Women’s Hat Pin

footwear for women

Feathers worn by women.

Parasols

stockings worn by women

For evening, men’s attire was strictly com-posed of a black dress coat, white waistcoat and trousers matching the coat. The dress coat was double-breasted with a cut-away

front and two tails at the rear.

Golf clothing,1912. on the left, knickers and a Norflok jacket; on the right, a plaid suit with a half

belt at the back

COSTUME FOR MEN

Robe de soiree de Poiret, drawn by Georges Lepape, shows Paul Poiret’s typical lampshade

tunic over a long narrow skirtLes Robes de Paul Poiret drawn by Paul Iribe

PAUL POIRET

Vintage Vogue cover, 1913. Depicts the ‘Hobble skirt’ designed by Paul Poiret

Paul Poiret’s inspiration from Ballet Russes Production Scheherazade

Actress Lillian Gish in a Delphos Dress

Mariano Fortuny dove-grey Delphos gown, circa 1930, printed with maker to the inner selvedge, the armholes and side seams edged in clear Murano glass beads, the satin belt sten-cilled with silver vines.

Mariano Fortuny

This Doucet creation, illustrated by H. Robert Dammy, shows the new flowing line. It is complemented by a sumptuous

Oriental coat with fur trimming.

Evening gown Jacques Doucet (French, Paris 1853–1929 Paris)

Jacques Doucet

The Parisian cabaret artiste Gaby Deslys wearing a dress by Jeanne

Paquin.

A magnificent evening cloak with kimono sleeves and long tails worn over a dress

with train

Jeanne Paquin

Loïe Fuller was a visionary artist who crafted a novel genre of performance, one

that combined billowing costumes with dazzling lights and projections to con-jure transformative imagery of hypnotic

beauty.

Loie fuller 1862-1928

This 1892 photograph shows Fuller cos-tumed for her Serpentine Dance and hold-

ing a typical “skirt dance” pose. On the right Fuller sewed wands inside her silk garment to extend her reach into space

Isadora Duncan (1878-1927), in a picture by Arnold Genthe (1869-1942). Symbol of the

“New Feminism”.

A celebrated dancer, Isadora was wildly unconventional and her life was consid-ered scandalous. She was one of the first

feminists. Her fondness for long, flowing scarves and her extravagant waywardness

were her doom.

Isadora Duncan1877-1927

Four poses from Mata Hari’s infamous Dance of the Veils. She dropped layer after layer of her glamorously provocative costume until,but for one last thin veil, she danced naked

on the stage.

Mata Hari, was a Dutch exotic dancer, courtesan, and accused spy who was ex-ecuted by firing squad in France under

charges of espionage for Germany during World War I.

Mata Hari1876-1917

Sarah Bernhardt’s Oriental costumes for her role as Empress Theodora in

an 1894 stage productionSarah bernhardt (1844-1923). Who

was the biggest star and unforget-table in her roles as tosca, joan of arc, Phaedra. In 1900 paul poiret de-

signed the costume for her first breeches part in L’Aiglon.

Sarah Bernhardt1844-1923

colorized version of a Camille Clifford cabinet card

the original “Gibson Girl.” A Gibson Girl was the personification of the feminine ideal of beauty portrayed

by the satirical pen-and-ink illustra-tions of illustrator Charles Dana

Gibson

Camille Clifford1885-1971