History of fashion 1900-1913
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Transcript of History of fashion 1900-1913
Impressionism is a precursor of various painting styles, including Neo-Impression-
ism, Post-Impressionism, Fauvism, and Cubism.
imressionism
an avant-garde art movement. one of the most imortant in modern art.it was develoed by pablo picasso and georges
braques.the cubists challenged conventional
forms of reppresentation. it was an attemt to revitalise the tired
traditions of western art.technological progress, inventions;
photography, cinematography, sound re-codring and the telephone. the airlane
and motor car.first abstract style of modern art.
cubism
Pablo Picasso, 1910, Girl with a Mandolin (Fanny Tellier), oil on canvas, 100.3 x 73.6
cm, Museum of Modern Art, New York
giovanni boldini1842-1931
an italian painter, portraitist and land-scapist. initially boldini practiced with
his father who was also a sculptor and an artist.
attended the academy of fine arts boldini is highly influenced by degas,
monet and sargent.his painting deict the parisian life and el-
egant womenknown as the “master of swish”
his brushstrokes brought about all the energy of the painting alive.
he is the most popular portrait painter of the high society
natalina cavalieri italian opera singer.
Renowned as much for her great beau-ty as for her singing voice, she became one of the most photographed stars
of her time. Frequently referred to as the “world’s most beautiful woman,”
she was part of the tight lacing tradi-tion that saw women use corsetry to
create an “hour-glass” figure.
Avant-garde though he was, Boldini always remained indebted to the six-
teenth-century Italian masters, whose work he had copied assiduously as a
young student and later at the Acad-emy in Florence.
Nudo di donna in grigio Sinfonia in grigio.This work reveals a very different side of Boldini’s art
from the grand society portraiture for which he is best known
philip de laszlo1869-1937
born as fulop laub in budapest, laszlo’s greatest influence was john singer sar-
gent . he was known for painting the elite of
the era,; princess marina, european kings, dukes and more.
it is said laszlo painted in a way such that the portraits “look exactly as they would
like them
Setting his sights on royalty, he targeted the rich and titled, often through their womenfolk. Not all his
work was successful: the portrait of Vita Sackville-West quite misses her
singularity. But that of Elinor Glyn, with cobalt eyebrows to match her jewels and cascading satin, brilliantly conveys the vulgar glamour of the Edwardian age. “Can’t you see the powder on her face?” bitched its first viewers. “And the hair,
plainly dyed! He is so clever.”
john singer sargent1856-1925
during this era sargent was at the height of his fame.
from the very beginning sargents work is seen as highly technical and skilled especisialy due to his ability to draw
using a brush.FROM 1907 ONWARDS HE MADE MORE OF
LANDSCAPES.
Man: I’m afraid I can’t hear you.Woman: What did you say?
Man: I didn’t quite hear.Woman: Will speak a little louder.
(Man and woman on the phone)Woman: Beautiful day.Man: Lovely day, isn’t it?
(The only way)
A cartoon by W.K. Haselden in 1910 making fun of the size of a woman’s
hat. (Daily Mirror Newspaper)
stockings worn by women
For evening, men’s attire was strictly com-posed of a black dress coat, white waistcoat and trousers matching the coat. The dress coat was double-breasted with a cut-away
front and two tails at the rear.
Golf clothing,1912. on the left, knickers and a Norflok jacket; on the right, a plaid suit with a half
belt at the back
COSTUME FOR MEN
Robe de soiree de Poiret, drawn by Georges Lepape, shows Paul Poiret’s typical lampshade
tunic over a long narrow skirtLes Robes de Paul Poiret drawn by Paul Iribe
PAUL POIRET
Vintage Vogue cover, 1913. Depicts the ‘Hobble skirt’ designed by Paul Poiret
Paul Poiret’s inspiration from Ballet Russes Production Scheherazade
Actress Lillian Gish in a Delphos Dress
Mariano Fortuny dove-grey Delphos gown, circa 1930, printed with maker to the inner selvedge, the armholes and side seams edged in clear Murano glass beads, the satin belt sten-cilled with silver vines.
Mariano Fortuny
This Doucet creation, illustrated by H. Robert Dammy, shows the new flowing line. It is complemented by a sumptuous
Oriental coat with fur trimming.
Evening gown Jacques Doucet (French, Paris 1853–1929 Paris)
Jacques Doucet
The Parisian cabaret artiste Gaby Deslys wearing a dress by Jeanne
Paquin.
A magnificent evening cloak with kimono sleeves and long tails worn over a dress
with train
Jeanne Paquin
Loïe Fuller was a visionary artist who crafted a novel genre of performance, one
that combined billowing costumes with dazzling lights and projections to con-jure transformative imagery of hypnotic
beauty.
Loie fuller 1862-1928
This 1892 photograph shows Fuller cos-tumed for her Serpentine Dance and hold-
ing a typical “skirt dance” pose. On the right Fuller sewed wands inside her silk garment to extend her reach into space
Isadora Duncan (1878-1927), in a picture by Arnold Genthe (1869-1942). Symbol of the
“New Feminism”.
A celebrated dancer, Isadora was wildly unconventional and her life was consid-ered scandalous. She was one of the first
feminists. Her fondness for long, flowing scarves and her extravagant waywardness
were her doom.
Isadora Duncan1877-1927
Four poses from Mata Hari’s infamous Dance of the Veils. She dropped layer after layer of her glamorously provocative costume until,but for one last thin veil, she danced naked
on the stage.
Mata Hari, was a Dutch exotic dancer, courtesan, and accused spy who was ex-ecuted by firing squad in France under
charges of espionage for Germany during World War I.
Mata Hari1876-1917
Sarah Bernhardt’s Oriental costumes for her role as Empress Theodora in
an 1894 stage productionSarah bernhardt (1844-1923). Who
was the biggest star and unforget-table in her roles as tosca, joan of arc, Phaedra. In 1900 paul poiret de-
signed the costume for her first breeches part in L’Aiglon.
Sarah Bernhardt1844-1923