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    Hindol

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    Year 3, No. 2

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    July 2011

    ISSN 0976-0989

    Artists:

    Raja Ravi Varma

    Arup Das

    Shanu Lahiri

    Pulak Biswas

    Sita Ray

    Usha Biswas

    Prabir Kumar DasBharat Lama (School Student)

    Photo Credits :

    Dhruva Chaudhuri

    Amita Sen

    Madhumita Dasgupta

    Editorial Team :

    Chittaranjan Pakrashi, Jayanti Chattopadhyay,Maitrayee Sen, Ajanta Dutt, Nandan Dasgupta

    E-46, Greater Kailash-I,

    New [email protected]

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    70 Bharati Sarkar Kamala Sengupta - A Legend of Delhi

    79 Amita Sen The Monumental Bridges of Delhi

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    Dear Jayanti,

    I feel the adda on Ritwik Ghatak was interesting.

    At times I wonder why people never think of the effects of partition

    on the people who were in Calcutta where the refugees took shelter. I

    remember my childhood days - my father a clerk with a meagre income

    of Rs 35/- and lots of his relatives pouring into our house. Mother notonly did not get any rest - she could not afford any servant - looking

    after her parents-in-law, children and husband but also had to care for

    the flood of guests with lots of demands for sympathy, food & shelter.

    It was difficult for my parents & grandparents to have anything but

    bare necessities; they had to look after their relatives - in most cases so

    called relatives by reason of being born in the same village. I suppose

    it was all worth it as most of them went on to do well in life.

    Krishna Lahiri

    11.7.2011 New Delhi

    (sent on email from Calcutta)

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    One April morning in 1994 when I was returning to Delhi via

    Amsterdam after visiting my parents in Oxford, my attention was

    suddenly drawn to drawings of two old aeroplanes with three engines

    imprinted on sachets of sugar and milk served with my in-flight coffee.

    Being crazy about every aircraft old and new and also because I wastravelling by air, it occurred to me that the airline I was travelling with

    was one of the pioneering three which used to carry passengers from

    India to Europe around the thirties of the last century. I also recalled

    that the Poet and Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore had flown to

    Persia from Calcutta in April 1932.

    One of those planes with three engines was a Dutch Fokker Tri-

    Motor which I guessed might have been the aeroplane in which Tagore

    had travelled to Persia on April 11, 1932. On cross checking withthe cabin crew, they confirmed that Fokker F-7 and F-12 Tri-Motor

    planes were operating in the early

    thirties from Batavia, now called

    Jakarta, the capital of Java or

    Indonesia. These planes flew to

    Amsterdam via Calcutta. That

    journey usually took eleven daysprovided the weather was fine and

    the aircraft worked well.

    In his Bengali travelogue "Japan

    and Persia", Tagore had described

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    Persia 1932

    A Flight to Persia 1932

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    this air journey in considerable detail, and I had gulped them down

    with rapt attention when I got that book as a birthday present in 1944from my uncle Binode Chaudhuri, who was working with Vishwa

    Bharati at that time. Tagore in his description of this air journey says

    that he was accompanied on the flight by his daughter- in-law Pratima

    Devi, and secretary, Amiya Chakravarty. They embarked at the

    Dumdum airport of Calcutta at 6 a.m. Around 10 o'clock, the plane

    stopped for refueling at the Bamrauli aerodrome of Allahabad, and

    after take-off from Allahabad, high up in the air again, the lush green

    of the Bengal landscape below was reduced to a tawny picture of theNorth Indian plain along with some visible scratches representing

    some rivers.

    According to the poet's own description, the aeroplane had six

    leather arm chairs for passengers in two rows. Since the noise from

    the engines made any conversation with companions impossible, all

    that Tagore could do was to stuff cotton wool in his ears, and

    contemplate his feelings for this second air journey from his hometown Calcutta, and compare it with the first air trip from London to

    Paris, in April 1921.

    The poet was really intrigued by a Danish fellow passenger, a

    sugarcane planter from Java, who went on munching chocolate, cheese

    A Flight to Persia 1932

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    and bread, and drinking

    mineral water, while reading

    newspapers and magazineswhich he had brought from

    Calcutta. He had hardly any

    time or even inclination to

    look outside, or marvel at the

    sky. While Tagore's thoughts

    were bordering on almost

    being critical about flying in

    a machine, he was quitelavish in his praise for the

    four Dutch crew members of

    his aeroplane. When he

    landed at Jodhpur airport late

    in the afternoon, he was

    warmly received by the

    Maharajah of Jodhpur, a

    pioneering aviator. Taking

    off early the next morning,

    Tagore received a warm welcome in Karachi, and partook of a lunch

    prepared with a lot of affection by a Bengali housewife. Finally, after

    another night at Jask, Tagore's plane landed safely at Bushire in Persia

    on the third day at 8.20 a.m. Journalist Kedar Nath Chatterjee, the

    third person in Tagore's party, and who had to fly earlier because of

    lack of seats, joined the poet's entourage in Bushire.A few months later during a visit to Kolkata, I managed to look

    up the July1932 issue of "Modern Review" as instructed by my father,

    the famous author Nirad C. Chaudhuri, and could photocopy a rare

    photograph of Tagore having his dinner with a Persian VIP at Bushire.

    The others at the table are Pratima Devi, Kedar Nath Chatterjee, and

    Amiya Chakravarty.

    Tagore's air trip to Persia ended at the Iranian city of Bushire.

    The rest of the journey on that historic trip was completed in a carvia Shiraz and Ishfahan. Tagore finally reached Teheran on April 29,

    1932, and his 71st birthday was celebrated there on 8th May.

    (Dhruva Chaudhuri is a professional photographer)

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    fl

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    flfl fl 1911 = : fl fl, fl SL fl Coronation Park fl fl fl fl fl fl fl 26 fl

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    fl fl~ fl y, fl~ fl L = - ,

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    e] ? L flKIKI, k fl L

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    fl fl S g 'it was a barbaric display if you will but it epitomised the wealth and

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    Here on the 12th Day of De-

    cember 1911 His Imperial Maj-

    esty King George V Emperor ofIndia accompanied by the Queen

    Empress in solemn Durbar an-

    nounced in person to the

    Governers, Princes and peoples of

    India his Coronation celebrated in

    England on the 22nd day of June

    1911 and received from them

    dutiful homage and allegiance. Solemn Durbar - M ?

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    , e fl fl fl fl fl fl -P fl,

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    , ? 2 , , fl L XL fl fl, Mfl fl fl ...the man who

    ~ -

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    is responsible thus abusing the authourity of the sovereign should

    seek some other sphere of influence.

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    monuments situated outside the Jumna winding its way like a silver

    streak in the foreground at a little distance. I said at once to Hailey

    ~ -

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    (Commissioner of Delhi), "This is the site for Government House" and

    he readily agreed

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    5

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    Percival Spear (OBE) came to India in 1924 and joined St

    Stephen's College as a lecturer of history. In 1933 he married andwas joined in Delhi by his wife Margaret. He left St. Stephen's in

    1938 to join government service before returning to Cambridge in

    1945. He passed away in December 1982 after publishing India

    Rememberedin 1980, a joint venture with his wife, most of which

    is their reminiscences of life in Delhi. An excerpt:

    When I arrived the secretariat and the Viceroy's House

    were still a-building. These buildings were five milesfrom Kashmere Gate and one of my first journeys was

    cycling to see the still shapeless masses of brick and

    stone with the long lines of "coolie" men and women

    carrying materials on their heads to the tune of dirge-

    like chants. At that time, in 1924, only one or two

    avenues, like Asoka Road, were inhabited and had

    grown trees. A feature of the roads was their vistas.Both the great mosque and the Old Fort, amongst

    others, could be seen* from a variety of angles so that

    one was never oppressed by the feeling of being lost in

    a sea of modernity.. In the spaciousness, the vistas

    and the leafiness of New Delhi Lutyens served posterity

    well. It will take many years of encroachment to convert

    the whole into a bureaucratic slum.. New Delhi inthose years was a pleasant and spacious place to live

    in or visit. It was occupied but not crowded; it was

    busy but not fevered; it was growing but not out of

    control. It was filled with fresh young trees, and

    interspersed with parks and gardens. In the hot weather

    it was still dead but in the cold season it was a busy

    center ablaze with the colours of gaudy flowers, offlamboyant creepers and flowering trees.

    * The ramparts of the Fort can still be seen from the top of Raisina Hill. Editor

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    + ^

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    Kamala Sengupta is a legend. Her qualities go beyond generations

    as she is embedded in the hearts and memories of students, parents

    and others who came in contact with her. She reminds me of a huge

    banyan tree, whose main trunk has aged and gone, but the prop roots

    have flourished, holding the traditions of Lady Irwin School like acanopy. Students of the school are all over the world - simple and

    smart, diligent and confident, communicative and skilful, empathetic

    and helpful : in short, complete human beings. Irwinites stand out in

    a crowd and are proud of their alma mater. They fondly remember

    Ms. Sengupta as a unique mentor. She was like a flowing river,

    banging against rocks, making way to surge ahead, overcoming

    obstacles, time and again, because her sole objective was to ensure

    holistic development of the students. Tender at heart, but rock hardwhen achieving objectives, she was an epitome of mental and physical

    strength. Her presence and personality seemed to exude, like perfume,

    character building vibrations, creating an ambience befitting the stature

    of Lady Irwin School as a model institution.

    I feel honoured to have been asked to sketch her life story as the

    Principal of Lady Irwin School. We, her students, adored her. There

    are endless episodes that we fondly remember about our school yearsand on behalf of all who loved and respected her, I offer my salutations

    to her, in this year 2011, which happens to be the year of her birth

    centenary.

    Kamala Sengupta was born on August 20, 1910 in an erudite family

    Kamala Sengupta

    - A legend of Delhi

    Bharati Sarkar

    Chittaranjan Park,

    New Delhi

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    of Bengal. Her father Dr. Shashi Bhushan Sengupta was a medical

    practitioner. She often mentioned that her inspiration was her father

    she named her house, built in Chittaranjan Park, 'Shashidhara'. Sheheld a masters degree in Mathematics. True to her aptitude, Ms.

    Sengupta began her career as a teacher and became the Vice Principal

    of Gokhale Memorial School in Kolkata. In 1944, she joined Lady

    Irwin School, Simla as the Principal. In 1946, she moved to Delhi

    and remained the Principal of Lady Irwin School, Delhi till December

    1973. During her tenure, the school rose to unparalleled heights and

    got recognized as the best in Asia amongst girls' schools. No wonder,

    the Governing Body, in appreciation of her services, passed the

    following resolution on the eve of her retirement.The Governing Body of the Lady Irwin Higher Secondary School

    for Girls place on record their deep and grateful appreciation of the

    services rendered to the School by Miss Kamala Sengupta as

    Principal for more than a quarter Century. Miss Sengupta joined

    Simla Branch of the School in 1944 and as Principal of this School

    in early 1946. She continued to serve with unflagging devotion till

    her retirement in December, 1973. It was largely due to her highqualities of leadership that she succeeded in building up a team of

    teachers devoted to the service of the pupils entrusted to their care,

    in the best academic traditions of our country. The premier position

    which this school has attained among the girls' higher secondary

    schools in Northern India is a tribute not only to Miss Sengupta's

    leadership as Principal but also to her constant upholding of the high

    traditions of Scholastic life and her passionate concern for the

    maintenance of academic disciplines and standards. On the eve ofher retirement from active service the Governing Body of the Lady

    Irwin School conveys to her their best wishes for a long happy and

    active life in the years to come and express the hope that her counsel

    and guidance will continue to be available to the school and its staff

    on all occasions.

    Although the school does not today enjoy the glorious reputation

    it enjoyed in the past as one of the best in academics, sports and

    cultural events, it is still one of the more aspired girls' school thanothers because of the values and traditions it stands for. These were

    largely incorporated by Ms. Sengupta into the every day teaching and

    learning and have seeped down generations.

    Mathematics was her passion. Once in a while she would snatch

    Kamala Sengupta - A legend of Delhi

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    time off her administrative duties, enter the eleventh class without

    notice and make Trigonometry and Coordinate Geometry seem so

    easy. The number of exercises she would make us solve would faroutnumber those solved by her on the blackboard.

    Her worth did not go unnoticed by the authorities. She was selected

    as Field Advisor along with four other talented Principals by the All

    India Council for Secondary Education, the forerunner of National

    Council for Educational Research and Training (NCERT), where she

    rendered valuable service for examination reforms. She organized

    workshops and seminars for training Principals, teachers and other

    examiners, in framing questions of the problem-solving type, the

    questions that we today categorise as 'Application', type and 'high

    order thinking' (HOTS) type. She was much ahead of her times in

    many ways. Today, educationists recommend the 'constructive

    approach' and the 'life skills' approach to education. All this was inbuilt

    not only in classroom teaching and learning in Lady Irwin School but

    in all the numerous activities that we joyfully carried out from 9 am

    to 4 pm six days a week.In 1962, Ms. Sengupta visited schools in London and European

    countries on a sponsorship from British Council and brought back

    ideas which she took no time to implement for the benefit of students.

    She was also associated with the literacy unit of the Bharatiya Gramin

    Mahila Samiti and contributed towards literacy of adult rural women.

    Those were not the days when sartorial splendour was as important

    as today. But we remember that she wore well ironed saris and

    matching blouses which were well stitched. She spent her workingyears in a small two room apartment on the first floor of the school

    building and took great care of her invalid brother. She was an ace

    cook and invited her students with spouses for a meal when they got

    married. She was of large frame but her bulky body belied the brisk

    speed with which she walked and the colossal amount of work that

    she put in. The school in her times had a fleet of buses including a

    double decker. Whenever she went out of school she would beconspicuous by being the sole passenger in a school bus.

    Madhavi Mudgal (Year 1967), the well known Odissi dancer

    remembers her as a visionary and a stickler for discipline. When she

    uttered the word 'Now, children' and 'Quiet', to two thousand odd

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    students assembled for prayers near the gymnasium, there would be

    pindrop silence in fraction of a second.

    There was no school uniform in her days. Madhurima Bose (Year1974), a wild life photographer recalls how Ms. Sengupta often

    justified by saying that her girls in colourful clothes looked like

    butterflies in a garden. Also she had the courage of conviction to say

    that 'my girls would be identified by their good manners, respect for

    elders, helpful nature and the ease with which they would

    communicate in English as well as Vernacular'. Kiran Walia (Year

    1959), now Minister of Social Welfare, Woman and Child and

    Languages in the Delhi State Government recalls an interesting

    anecdote. On a cold winter morning, dressed in flared coat, she, then

    a fifteen year old, was walking close to the ledge when a flower pot

    got knocked down by the ends of her coat. Ms. Sengupta appeared

    from nowhere, says Kiran, and took her affectionately to the Principal's

    room. She said, 'the

    manner in which a

    person should walkand conduct oneself

    is learnt in school'.

    Kiran says she has

    not forgotten this

    incident even today.

    Ms. Sengupta

    had an uncanny

    knack ofremembering the

    names of her

    students and

    knowing finer

    details about them.

    Says Ranjana

    Saxena (Year1973), Assistant

    Professor in Dayal

    Singh College,

    Delhi University, 'ItKamala Sengupta

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    is strange how she would take no time to spot each one of the girls

    when the respective parents came to enquire about their wards.' In

    fact parents had so much faith in her that they would even seek herhelp. In the late nineteen fifties, tight tops (kamize worn with salwar)

    became very popular with young girls. Since there was no school

    uniform, some girls insisted on wearing tight shirts to school. For three

    consecutive days she announced in the assembly that tights were not

    permissible in school. A week later, she made the defaulters line up

    and used a pair of scissors to loosen the shirts from the sides. Later

    she announced that this step was taken at the behest of the mothers

    who sought her help in this regard as every morning a lot of their time

    was wasted in helping their daughters get into tight shirts.

    The importance of a rapport between teachers and parents was well

    realized by her. In fact she and Ms. Rajni Kumar, the founder of

    Springdale's school were the pioneers of the PTA movement in the

    country. Ms. Sengupta was the honorary secretary of the Delhi Parent

    Teacher Organisation till the end of her life. Today it is mandatory

    for every school to have a PTA. Ours is a government aided schooland so financial crunches are inevitable. But she had such good

    relations with parents that she always got help from them in upgrading

    the infrastructure of the school. She also involved parents teaching

    in the university to be on the interview board when selecting teachers

    for the school.

    All her students were appreciated for their achievements and

    encouraged to do better. Saroj Tuli (Year 1955) relives those days

    when after the inter-school netball or throwball match their victoriousteam entered the school portals in the school bus shouting 'hip hip

    hurray', Ms. Sengupta would always be there to greet and congratulate

    each one individually. She would also be there to cheer up whenever

    the team lost which, however, was not very often. Aparajita Agnihotri

    (Year 1956), the skin specialist, who stood first among girls in the

    Science Stream in that year recalls that Ms. Sengupta had written in

    her report book, 'should try to get a position in the higher secondaryexamination' which had boosted her efforts. Even her punishments

    were positive. Says Neelam Gupta, the banker, 'One day we were

    watching cricket match on the television when we should have been

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    learning lessons taught through the TV. She caught us unawares, and

    immediately asked us to get our parents the next day. In all politeness,

    in front of the parents she told us that she wanted her girls to learn todo the right thing at the right time. You were sent to the TV room to

    learn the lesson being presented on TV.'

    She would try out innovative methods to improve the academic

    pursuits of her students. A house with a chemistry laboratory was

    donated to the school by a well-wisher. This was in Dagshai in Shimla

    Hills, and year after year, students of higher classes were sent for extra

    coaching with teachers during the summer vacation. There were no

    formal classes on Moral Education in our school but famous orators

    were invited to address students. The following excerpt is from a

    message for students printed in the diaries.Whenever, we the classmates meet, we relive and revisit our school

    days. We remember and salute our teachers and our principal. Last

    time when we met we recalled Swami Ranganathananda's visit to

    our school. He was from Rama Krishna Mission and our Principal

    Ms. Kamala Sengupta had invited him to address all inmates of the

    school. We still remember what he told us. He told us what the

    vowels in English stood for and urged us to make those a part of

    our lives.

    A, he said stood for ambition, without which one cannot progress

    in life. E, stands for energy which is needed all the time and makes

    a good diet necessary. I, is for inspiration, which we need to draw

    from great humans, elders, any good act or incident and above all

    from nature. O, stands for order which means discipline and without

    which time can never be managed. U is for unity without which nogreat tasks are achieved. I share this with you because these values

    are eternal.

    Ms. Sengupta literally hand-picked the best teachers, and also the

    best students who joined mid-stream. Justice Ms. Gita Mittal (Year

    1975) revisits the day when as an eleven year old she accompanied

    her father for an interview with the principal. Gita was one of the four

    who had qualified for admission to class VI out of of 600 odd

    applicants, after a stiff admission test. When Gita's father asked Ms.

    Sengupta why such a rigorous procedure for other classes and just a

    lottery system of picking up chits with names of children for admission

    to the nursery, she promptly replied, "Why should I hold an admission

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    test for the nursery class? What are my teachers worth if they cannot

    mould raw innocent, flexible tiny tots into graceful human beings?"

    She had the eyes of a hawk when selecting teachers. Sheanticipated the versatility in music in Neel Madhab Sinha, who

    recently passed away. Straight from Manipur, Neel Madhab Sinha was

    offered accommodation for his family to retain him in school. At

    Masterji's (as all of us called him) memorial service, Indu Bulbul Sud

    (Year 1954) recalled how Masterji composed the music and the dance

    and taught the song "Phaile Kheton mein door talak" to almost one

    thousand students because Ms. Sengupta wanted the involvement of

    as many girls as possible. She believed in providing opportunities for

    holistic learning. This is evident from the PT shows that were held

    annually at National Stadium. Ms. Sengupta realized the importance

    of physical training and made PT and games compulsory for students

    of all classes. She convinced the Governing Body of the school to

    send Ms. Uma Guha to Canada for training in aerobics and physical

    exercises which Ms. Guha taught us after coming back from Canada,

    to the accompaniment of piano played by Ms. Gordon. PT showshelped the school raise money and parents enjoy their daughters'

    performance. It was always a gala show and the whole school,

    teaching and non-teaching staff and students worked hard for days to

    make it a grand success.

    Similarly bus loads of school girls were sent to Ramakrishna

    Mission for speech, recitation and declamation competitions. A week

    before the competition, teachers helped students prepare for the

    competition. Today this is thought of as waste of time as regular classeswould have to be suspended. Today, the only competition that is of

    importance to teachers is the 'examination' and unfortunately so,

    because once examination becomes the sole objective of school

    education children are prevented from developing self confidence and

    self esteem, building interpersonal relationships and developing

    effective communication. In our school these life skills were built in

    through co-curricular activities. Inter in-house dramatic competitionswere held in the school itself. Many prizes were won at the Shankar's

    weekly painting competition. Our school always exhibited a unique

    item in the Republic Day parade. Bharati Das who as a mountaineer

    had scaled many heights, was selected by Ms. Sengupta. The bamboo

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    dance taught by her was considered a real feat of dexterity. But Ms.

    Sengupta was always on the lookout for teachers who would scale

    up the academic achievement of the school. One such teacher whomshe brought in was Mr. Mulherkar who taught Physics. Our school

    for many years had the highest success rate in board exams apart from

    position holders in the board like Rama Daga who stood first in the

    year 1964 and Chandralekha Mukherji who stood second in the year

    1992. In 1966, all those who attempted National Science Talent

    Scholarship were awarded the scholarship.

    'My girls will be identified by the manner in which they conduct

    themselves'. Truly enough, all Irwinites have made a name as home-

    makers. They have also made a name in their chosen careers. Apart

    from many many medical practitioners and teachers, there are Shaswati

    Sen and Bhaswati Mishra (1974) the Kathak dancers, Ranjana Gauhar

    (1965) and Madhavi Mudgal (1966) the Odissi dancers, Subhadra

    Joshi and Madhumita Pakrasi Roy (1972) the classical Hindustani

    Music Vocalists, Arpana Kaur (1970) and Arpita Singh (1954) the

    painters and artists, screen actor Suhasini Mulay (1966), architects likeManjari Gupta (1979), bankers like Karabi Banerji (1972), theatre

    personalities like Kirti Jain (1965), bureaucrats like Keya

    Bhattacharya, college principals like Babli Moitra and Pratibha Jolly

    (1968), CEO of Indian Airlines Monju Banerjee and aircraft pilots

    like Tanushree Bhattacharya, scientists like Harmeet Rekhi (1972).

    There are hoteliers and chefs and theatre artists and educationists.

    Think of a profession and it will be represented by an Irwinite. All

    the voices echo in unison, three cheers for Lady Irwin School andMs. K. Sengupta.

    (Bharati Sarkar (nee Dutt) is an educationist.

    She passed out of the school in 1956. She is on the school's

    Governing Body and Managing Committee.)

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    The fast-emerging middle-class India is a country

    with its eyes firmly fixed on the future. Everywhere there

    is a profound hope that the country's growing

    international status will somehow compensate for a

    past often perceived as a long succession of invasionsand defeats at the hands of foreign powers. Whatever

    the reason, the result is a tragic neglect of Delhi's

    magnificent past. Sometimes it seems as if no other

    great city of the world is less loved, or less cared for.

    Occasionally there is an outcry as the tomb of the poet

    Zauq is discovered to have disappeared under a

    municipal urinal or the haveli courtyard house of hisrival Ghalib is revealed to have been turned into a

    coal store; but by and large the losses go unrecorded.

    I find it heartbreaking : often when I revisit one of

    my favourite monuments it has either been overrun by

    some slum or container park, unsympathetically

    restored or reconstructed by the Archaeological Survey

    of India (ASI) or, more usually, simply demolished.Ninety-nine per cent of the delicate havelis or Mughal

    courtyard houses of Old Delhi have been destroyed,

    and like swathes of the city walls have disappeared

    into memory.the loss of Delhi's past is irreplaceable;

    and future generations will inevitably look back at the

    conservation failures of the early twenty-first century

    with a deep sadness.

    William Dalrymple

    The Last Mughal

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    Bridges are not new to India as references to the Ram Setu of

    Tretayug show. Closer in time, there exists near Patna excavated

    masonry piers dating to the Mauryan period. Other medieval ones

    include those at Machilipatnam, Akbar's 190 metre long bridge across

    the Gomti at Jaunpur, the stone bridge at Vijayanagara in Karnataka,Atharanala at Orissa, Sama bridge near Vadodara in Gujarat amongst

    many others. In Delhi too, there are several bridges of historical and

    archaeological interest, most of which are in disuse, some in a state of

    disrepair and some even partly or fully ruined / demolished. We will

    take a look at a few of these.

    Merely for the fun of semantics, let us first take the three bridges

    Satpullah, Athpullah and Barahpullah. Quite apparently, the names

    suggest seven, eight and twelve piers (or arches or gates) respectively.Satpullah - This exquisite three-storied bridge once formed a part

    of the original Jahanpanah walls of the fourth city of Delhi founded

    by Mohammed Shah Tuglak in 1326-27. It now falls in Hauz Khas

    district, east of Khirkee village opposite Saket Mall. It is a very

    interesting structure built to allow a stream to pass beneath the wall

    and provide security to the ramparts at the same time. The stream is

    now diverted and runs further east.There are 7 piers of true arches at one level (actually 11, but 7

    main ones) and a further set of two more arches at a higher level each

    of which leads to a long barrel vaulted passageway. Higher levels are

    gates; intermediate level gates are closed on the outside; on each side

    The Monumental Bridges

    of Delhi

    Amita SenSarvodaya Enclave,

    New Delhi

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    of those are fortified bastions containing octagonal rooms with elegant

    plasterwork decorations. Each wall of the octagonal chambers have

    arrow slots for defence.

    Above the culverts and passageways there were platforms at

    appropriate levels with access via identical narrow stairs to the latter.

    The sluice gates acted as a dam after being lowered into position and

    were also used for defence. There are 11 arched openings, the side

    walls of which are grooved for sliding gates with which the force of

    Satpullah

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    the stream flowing from south through the openings could be regulated.

    The building was once damaged by a flood so a bund was created

    further south where the famous sufi saint Roshan-Chiragh-e-Dillibathed and whose waters are still considered to have healing properties.

    How to get there : Off Press Enclave Marg opposite the District Court

    Complex next to the Saket Mall.

    Athpullah - Built during the reign of Akbar (1556-1605) by a local

    Nawab, it has eight piers and seven arches. It still functions as a bridge,

    albeit over an ornamental pool in Lodi Gardens and not over a Yamuna

    tributary as it used to, and is a non-religious beautifully protectedmonument of archaeological value A.

    The walls are of dressed stone masonry with a vaulted stone roof.

    It has 8 piers and 7 arches with arch breadth of 11 feet and 6 inches,

    pillar height of 17 feet and 6 inches, stone length 2 feet height 3 feet

    each a parabolic true arch. It is 29 feet across and 2 feet wide on top

    of the bridge.How to get there : Enter Lodi Gardens from the north. Athpula lies a

    little to the east of the Sikander Lodi tomb. (For the record, Lodi Gardens

    was established in 1936 as Lady Willingdon Park.)

    Athpullah

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    Barapullah - Built during the Jehangir period by Mihir Ban Agha

    [1611-12] of the Arab serai and Eastern gateway (at Humayun's Tomb

    complex) fame, it has ten piers or arches but 12 towers or pallahs. Itis now amidst the fruit and vegetable market behind the Nizamuddin

    railway station. This old bridge spans a once tributary of the Yamuna,

    now a nala, and used to carry the main Delhi traffic to Agra. In 1628

    the road between the bridge and Humayun's tomb was a wide tree lined

    path and this was the handsomest bridge of Delhi. An ASI protected

    monument (notified in 1916), it has been in use for 400 years.

    It is a massive structure made of random rubble masonry with stone

    vaulted roofs and 10 feet high minars, one on each side of every arch.

    In 1911, the residents of Raisina village were uprooted for the

    construction of the Rashtrapati Bhavan, and rehabilitated in Bhogal,

    just beyond this bridge. The present condition of the bridge is serious

    and needs attention.

    How to get there : On the road connecting Nizamuddin Railway

    Station and Rajdoot Hotel.

    Wazirabad - This Feroz Shah Tuglak(1351-88) period bridge over

    a Yamuna tributary (now a nala) was notified as ASI Class A in 1918.

    It consists of nine pier arches and alcoves with nine bays (5 fully

    Barapullah

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    visible) built of random rubble masonry and lime plaster with a dressed

    stone facing, now restored with cement. It is off Timarpur and abutsthe rear corner of the mosque (one with a women's viewing gallery)

    of Shah Alam (a well known saint of the Tuglak era) and is about 1.5

    km north of Majnu ka tila gurudwara. It is in use as a bridge even

    today though in a state of serious deterioration due to overuse and

    neglect.

    The eastern and western walls of the chamber are pierced by

    circular and oblong holes access to which is by a general staircase in

    its northern and southern walls. The original paved causeway runs overthe bridge in its entire length and is raised in a series of steps towards

    the centre where the height of the bridge is the greatest.

    How to get there : Stay on the right (straight) going from ISBT

    past Majnu Ka Tila and turn right at the flyover. The bridge is on the

    right. Ask for Shah Alam's Tomb.

    Old Yamuna iron bridge - Lattice and Girder type bridge builtby the British and opened to railway traffic in the month of January,

    1867. The second railway track was laid in 1913. It has a span of 65

    metres, twelve piers with rocker and roller hinges. It came up after

    tearing down the ancient Salimgarh/Nurgarh original bridge (see

    Wazirabad

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    below). The present bridge has piers built on ten wells sunk 33 feet

    below water level to prevent scour.How to get there : While going north from Rajghat, take the road goingalong the electric crematorium behind the Salimgarh Fort.

    Salimgarh bridge - As you approach Nigam Bodh Ghat from

    Rajghat, you pass under an arch of the railway track coming from

    Calcutta to Old Delhi Railway station. On your left is the Red Fort

    and what you see on your right are the remains of the Salimgarh Fort

    built by Salim Shah Suri, son of Sher Shah Suri. After getting backcontrol of Delhi from Sher Shah, Humayun renamed it as Nurgarh.

    Salimgarh Fort was used as a prison several times. Aurangzeb had

    kept his brother Murad here before sending him to Gwalior for

    execution. He then imprisoned his daughter Zebunissa here till her

    death 21 years later. INA prisoners were kept here from 1945 to 1947.

    The Fort has been compared to the Tower of London or the Bastille

    of Paris. It is now called the Swatantrata Senani Smarak.

    As per a marble inscription kept in the ASI fort museum, Emperor

    Jehangir built a bridge connecting the Salimgarh Fort with the Red

    Fort. If that is correct, this is the only Jehangir structure in Delhi. There

    is an alternative theory that the bridge was built by a jagirdar, Farid

    Old Yamuna iron bridge

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    Khan. Prior to that Salimgarh Fort could be accessed only by boat as

    the Yamuna flowed there. The Yamuna had shifted considerably to

    the east by the time of Bahadur Shah Zafar, as he is said to have been

    flying kites on its banks next to the Salimgarh Fort, with a crowd

    gathering for his darshan.

    The old Salimgarh bridge had five arches which sprung flush from

    the face of the abutments. It was strengthened by a series of arched

    ribs springing from corbels that projected from the face of the

    abutments which gave an appearance of lightness with great strength.How to get there : Same as above, only keep to the left along the Red

    Fort.

    Pontoon Bridge (Bridge of Boats) - The pontoons 1-7 are all

    present but not on the river. They lie hidden in the undergrowth behind

    the Indraprastha Metro Station. It has not been reused after the monsoonseason of 2007. Today, in 2011, it may have little meaning but not so

    long ago it was regularly used by the drivers of two wheelers and other

    light traffic. It must have been quite strong at one time as it bore the

    weight of the Meerut mutineers pouring into the city on horseback on

    Salimgarh bridge

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    the morning of 11th May 1857 and then the thousands of the Delhi

    residents fleeing the city from the 17th to 19th of September the sameyear. It was on the early morning of the 17th that Zafar himself slipped

    away by boat down the Yamuna to the dargah of Nizamuddin Auliya.

    There was another significant exodus over the Pontoon Bridge. On

    7th October 1858, Bahadur Shah Zafar left Delhi over this bridge in

    a bullock cart on a journey that was to take him to banishment in

    Rangoon.How to get there : you can see the pantoons behind the Indraprastha

    Metro station. The original Bridge of Boats, at the time of Zafar crossed theYamuna at the then Calcutta Gate near Salimgarh.

    Khalji bridge at Siri - It is an unprotected monument dating back

    to the early part of the 14th century (1304) at the Khaje city of Siri.

    It is located within the green cover of the southwest entrance to the

    Siri Fort residential complex. It features 3 true parabolic arches. Total

    span is over 6 meters supported on a three vaulted chamber, the largestbeing the central one. It lies adjacent to the walls of the fort over a

    depression in the land through which once flowed a stream. It is made

    of random rubble masonry, belongs to archaeological status B and is

    in a fair state of preservation.

    Pontoon

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    How to get there : Coming south from Ansal Plaza, Andrews Ganj, turn

    in right at the crossing just before the Siri Fort Auditorium. The bridge is in

    the park on the left.

    Kamal Ataturk Marg bridge - A colonial period bridge (1930)

    near the Race Course, it is located adjacent to the Lady Willingdon

    Camp near the Hotel Ashok. It is an NDMC owned unprotected

    monument of Archaeological category C built of brick masonry with

    true arches and has a span of 20 meters and is open to road traffic.

    The status is fair but a similar period pedestrian bridge a further 200

    m south along the same nala could no longer be located. How to get there : Near the Samrat Hotel roundabout adjacent to

    Santushti.

    These were some of the beautiful monumental bridges of Delhi

    which are still extant, go out and find them today, enjoy them for whatthey were as they may not exist tomorrow.

    (Amita Sen is a paediatric surgeon)

    Khalji bridge

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    Our memories of India together cover half the twenties,

    the thirties and half the forties of this century. It is a longtime ago and apart from political changes, others in the

    social sphere have been drastic. A new India has

    emerged with new outlooks, new stresses, new hopes and

    fears.

    . Who would believe today, for example, that the New

    Delhi of the thirties was one of the quietest, most spacious

    and traffic-free cities in India, that the Delhi of the twenties

    was still in essence an old-world provincial city, with a

    sprawling but empty suburb to the south, and a cold

    weather incursion of "high-ups" to the north, longing to

    escape from their tents and temporary quarters to the

    coolness of Simla each March-April.

    . We saw in those years not only the transformation of

    Delhi from a provincial city to a metropolis but also the

    last years of the countryside as it had existed for

    centuries.

    . When the first of us came to Delhi in 1924, Mahatma

    Gandhi had emerged from his first imprisonment and was

    about to embark on his first great fast. When we joined in

    setting up house, the Civil Disobedience movement of 1930had collapsed; India was in a doldrums of repression and

    realignment. When we left, the British were about to

    appear victorious in World War II, apparently, for the

    moment, stronger than they had been for decades. Within

    these time limits there lies a vanished world.

    Percival & Margaret Spear

    India Remembered

    1980

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    , , ,

    ,

    ( , , |

    , ,

    , ,

    Bharat Lama

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    1. Yamuna River2. Salimgarh

    15. Khairati Gate16. Rajghat Gate

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    1920

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    SHAHAJAHANABADat the time of Shahajahan

    21

    Gardens

    Havelis

    Temples