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Hindol
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Year 3, No. 2
| 4 8
July 2011
ISSN 0976-0989
Artists:
Raja Ravi Varma
Arup Das
Shanu Lahiri
Pulak Biswas
Sita Ray
Usha Biswas
Prabir Kumar DasBharat Lama (School Student)
Photo Credits :
Dhruva Chaudhuri
Amita Sen
Madhumita Dasgupta
Editorial Team :
Chittaranjan Pakrashi, Jayanti Chattopadhyay,Maitrayee Sen, Ajanta Dutt, Nandan Dasgupta
E-46, Greater Kailash-I,
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70 Bharati Sarkar Kamala Sengupta - A Legend of Delhi
79 Amita Sen The Monumental Bridges of Delhi
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Dear Jayanti,
I feel the adda on Ritwik Ghatak was interesting.
At times I wonder why people never think of the effects of partition
on the people who were in Calcutta where the refugees took shelter. I
remember my childhood days - my father a clerk with a meagre income
of Rs 35/- and lots of his relatives pouring into our house. Mother notonly did not get any rest - she could not afford any servant - looking
after her parents-in-law, children and husband but also had to care for
the flood of guests with lots of demands for sympathy, food & shelter.
It was difficult for my parents & grandparents to have anything but
bare necessities; they had to look after their relatives - in most cases so
called relatives by reason of being born in the same village. I suppose
it was all worth it as most of them went on to do well in life.
Krishna Lahiri
11.7.2011 New Delhi
(sent on email from Calcutta)
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One April morning in 1994 when I was returning to Delhi via
Amsterdam after visiting my parents in Oxford, my attention was
suddenly drawn to drawings of two old aeroplanes with three engines
imprinted on sachets of sugar and milk served with my in-flight coffee.
Being crazy about every aircraft old and new and also because I wastravelling by air, it occurred to me that the airline I was travelling with
was one of the pioneering three which used to carry passengers from
India to Europe around the thirties of the last century. I also recalled
that the Poet and Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore had flown to
Persia from Calcutta in April 1932.
One of those planes with three engines was a Dutch Fokker Tri-
Motor which I guessed might have been the aeroplane in which Tagore
had travelled to Persia on April 11, 1932. On cross checking withthe cabin crew, they confirmed that Fokker F-7 and F-12 Tri-Motor
planes were operating in the early
thirties from Batavia, now called
Jakarta, the capital of Java or
Indonesia. These planes flew to
Amsterdam via Calcutta. That
journey usually took eleven daysprovided the weather was fine and
the aircraft worked well.
In his Bengali travelogue "Japan
and Persia", Tagore had described
Dhruva N. Chaudhuri
Faridabad, Haryana
A Flight to
Persia 1932
A Flight to Persia 1932
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this air journey in considerable detail, and I had gulped them down
with rapt attention when I got that book as a birthday present in 1944from my uncle Binode Chaudhuri, who was working with Vishwa
Bharati at that time. Tagore in his description of this air journey says
that he was accompanied on the flight by his daughter- in-law Pratima
Devi, and secretary, Amiya Chakravarty. They embarked at the
Dumdum airport of Calcutta at 6 a.m. Around 10 o'clock, the plane
stopped for refueling at the Bamrauli aerodrome of Allahabad, and
after take-off from Allahabad, high up in the air again, the lush green
of the Bengal landscape below was reduced to a tawny picture of theNorth Indian plain along with some visible scratches representing
some rivers.
According to the poet's own description, the aeroplane had six
leather arm chairs for passengers in two rows. Since the noise from
the engines made any conversation with companions impossible, all
that Tagore could do was to stuff cotton wool in his ears, and
contemplate his feelings for this second air journey from his hometown Calcutta, and compare it with the first air trip from London to
Paris, in April 1921.
The poet was really intrigued by a Danish fellow passenger, a
sugarcane planter from Java, who went on munching chocolate, cheese
A Flight to Persia 1932
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and bread, and drinking
mineral water, while reading
newspapers and magazineswhich he had brought from
Calcutta. He had hardly any
time or even inclination to
look outside, or marvel at the
sky. While Tagore's thoughts
were bordering on almost
being critical about flying in
a machine, he was quitelavish in his praise for the
four Dutch crew members of
his aeroplane. When he
landed at Jodhpur airport late
in the afternoon, he was
warmly received by the
Maharajah of Jodhpur, a
pioneering aviator. Taking
off early the next morning,
Tagore received a warm welcome in Karachi, and partook of a lunch
prepared with a lot of affection by a Bengali housewife. Finally, after
another night at Jask, Tagore's plane landed safely at Bushire in Persia
on the third day at 8.20 a.m. Journalist Kedar Nath Chatterjee, the
third person in Tagore's party, and who had to fly earlier because of
lack of seats, joined the poet's entourage in Bushire.A few months later during a visit to Kolkata, I managed to look
up the July1932 issue of "Modern Review" as instructed by my father,
the famous author Nirad C. Chaudhuri, and could photocopy a rare
photograph of Tagore having his dinner with a Persian VIP at Bushire.
The others at the table are Pratima Devi, Kedar Nath Chatterjee, and
Amiya Chakravarty.
Tagore's air trip to Persia ended at the Iranian city of Bushire.
The rest of the journey on that historic trip was completed in a carvia Shiraz and Ishfahan. Tagore finally reached Teheran on April 29,
1932, and his 71st birthday was celebrated there on 8th May.
(Dhruva Chaudhuri is a professional photographer)
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fl fl S g 'it was a barbaric display if you will but it epitomised the wealth and
significance of the immortal East.'
3
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fl afl = d
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1911 C fl ~ - flG -fl fl~ fl
fl , fl , , fl, , fl U fl g fl fl
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fl = ,d fl CoronotionPark- y fl ,
~ -
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Here on the 12th Day of De-
cember 1911 His Imperial Maj-
esty King George V Emperor ofIndia accompanied by the Queen
Empress in solemn Durbar an-
nounced in person to the
Governers, Princes and peoples of
India his Coronation celebrated in
England on the 22nd day of June
1911 and received from them
dutiful homage and allegiance. Solemn Durbar - M ?
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= fl d, ? fl S
flfl fl ~ L fl + y fl fl fl e fl fl 26i fl G fl k i fl KI - fl fl fl
y :5
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, e fl fl fl fl fl fl -P fl,
? 'One of the best kept secrets in history.' fl | S ~ fl
fl y ~ fl fl flfl ^fl Z L, fl ,
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fl fl c fl ee e X X flc
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, ? 2 , , fl L XL fl fl, Mfl fl fl ...the man who
~ -
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is responsible thus abusing the authourity of the sovereign should
seek some other sphere of influence.
His Majesty's Government-fl H.M.G. fl fl fl 'Hardinge Must Go'
M & fl e Z L fl S fl fl 1911 25 q ? , M fl , S M 1911 M fl
? , 'Should the above schememeet with the approval of your Lordship and His Majesty's Govern-
ment we would propose that the King Emperor should anounce at the
Durbar the transfer of the capital from Calcutta to Delhi. S
fl fl = P fl fl
fl 4
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fl = , L 'My
Indian Years' (1910-16) L ? , "From the top of the hillthere was a magnificient view embracing old Delhi and the principal
monuments situated outside the Jumna winding its way like a silver
streak in the foreground at a little distance. I said at once to Hailey
~ -
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(Commissioner of Delhi), "This is the site for Government House" and
he readily agreed
fl fl , S fl V ~ flc P M
fl fl fl fl Afl fl , fl
fl M fl fl - S fl fl L - Delhi- fl Mflfl fl | fl KI fl fl F fl, flfl , , 'it looked like a funeral procession' fl S
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flKIKI = fl fl fl , [ ~ -k ] + fl fl , & ~ fl fl
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~ -
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5
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fl fl ? , fl
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-
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Percival Spear (OBE) came to India in 1924 and joined St
Stephen's College as a lecturer of history. In 1933 he married andwas joined in Delhi by his wife Margaret. He left St. Stephen's in
1938 to join government service before returning to Cambridge in
1945. He passed away in December 1982 after publishing India
Rememberedin 1980, a joint venture with his wife, most of which
is their reminiscences of life in Delhi. An excerpt:
When I arrived the secretariat and the Viceroy's House
were still a-building. These buildings were five milesfrom Kashmere Gate and one of my first journeys was
cycling to see the still shapeless masses of brick and
stone with the long lines of "coolie" men and women
carrying materials on their heads to the tune of dirge-
like chants. At that time, in 1924, only one or two
avenues, like Asoka Road, were inhabited and had
grown trees. A feature of the roads was their vistas.Both the great mosque and the Old Fort, amongst
others, could be seen* from a variety of angles so that
one was never oppressed by the feeling of being lost in
a sea of modernity.. In the spaciousness, the vistas
and the leafiness of New Delhi Lutyens served posterity
well. It will take many years of encroachment to convert
the whole into a bureaucratic slum.. New Delhi inthose years was a pleasant and spacious place to live
in or visit. It was occupied but not crowded; it was
busy but not fevered; it was growing but not out of
control. It was filled with fresh young trees, and
interspersed with parks and gardens. In the hot weather
it was still dead but in the cold season it was a busy
center ablaze with the colours of gaudy flowers, offlamboyant creepers and flowering trees.
* The ramparts of the Fort can still be seen from the top of Raisina Hill. Editor
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+ ^
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Kamala Sengupta is a legend. Her qualities go beyond generations
as she is embedded in the hearts and memories of students, parents
and others who came in contact with her. She reminds me of a huge
banyan tree, whose main trunk has aged and gone, but the prop roots
have flourished, holding the traditions of Lady Irwin School like acanopy. Students of the school are all over the world - simple and
smart, diligent and confident, communicative and skilful, empathetic
and helpful : in short, complete human beings. Irwinites stand out in
a crowd and are proud of their alma mater. They fondly remember
Ms. Sengupta as a unique mentor. She was like a flowing river,
banging against rocks, making way to surge ahead, overcoming
obstacles, time and again, because her sole objective was to ensure
holistic development of the students. Tender at heart, but rock hardwhen achieving objectives, she was an epitome of mental and physical
strength. Her presence and personality seemed to exude, like perfume,
character building vibrations, creating an ambience befitting the stature
of Lady Irwin School as a model institution.
I feel honoured to have been asked to sketch her life story as the
Principal of Lady Irwin School. We, her students, adored her. There
are endless episodes that we fondly remember about our school yearsand on behalf of all who loved and respected her, I offer my salutations
to her, in this year 2011, which happens to be the year of her birth
centenary.
Kamala Sengupta was born on August 20, 1910 in an erudite family
Kamala Sengupta
- A legend of Delhi
Bharati Sarkar
Chittaranjan Park,
New Delhi
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of Bengal. Her father Dr. Shashi Bhushan Sengupta was a medical
practitioner. She often mentioned that her inspiration was her father
she named her house, built in Chittaranjan Park, 'Shashidhara'. Sheheld a masters degree in Mathematics. True to her aptitude, Ms.
Sengupta began her career as a teacher and became the Vice Principal
of Gokhale Memorial School in Kolkata. In 1944, she joined Lady
Irwin School, Simla as the Principal. In 1946, she moved to Delhi
and remained the Principal of Lady Irwin School, Delhi till December
1973. During her tenure, the school rose to unparalleled heights and
got recognized as the best in Asia amongst girls' schools. No wonder,
the Governing Body, in appreciation of her services, passed the
following resolution on the eve of her retirement.The Governing Body of the Lady Irwin Higher Secondary School
for Girls place on record their deep and grateful appreciation of the
services rendered to the School by Miss Kamala Sengupta as
Principal for more than a quarter Century. Miss Sengupta joined
Simla Branch of the School in 1944 and as Principal of this School
in early 1946. She continued to serve with unflagging devotion till
her retirement in December, 1973. It was largely due to her highqualities of leadership that she succeeded in building up a team of
teachers devoted to the service of the pupils entrusted to their care,
in the best academic traditions of our country. The premier position
which this school has attained among the girls' higher secondary
schools in Northern India is a tribute not only to Miss Sengupta's
leadership as Principal but also to her constant upholding of the high
traditions of Scholastic life and her passionate concern for the
maintenance of academic disciplines and standards. On the eve ofher retirement from active service the Governing Body of the Lady
Irwin School conveys to her their best wishes for a long happy and
active life in the years to come and express the hope that her counsel
and guidance will continue to be available to the school and its staff
on all occasions.
Although the school does not today enjoy the glorious reputation
it enjoyed in the past as one of the best in academics, sports and
cultural events, it is still one of the more aspired girls' school thanothers because of the values and traditions it stands for. These were
largely incorporated by Ms. Sengupta into the every day teaching and
learning and have seeped down generations.
Mathematics was her passion. Once in a while she would snatch
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time off her administrative duties, enter the eleventh class without
notice and make Trigonometry and Coordinate Geometry seem so
easy. The number of exercises she would make us solve would faroutnumber those solved by her on the blackboard.
Her worth did not go unnoticed by the authorities. She was selected
as Field Advisor along with four other talented Principals by the All
India Council for Secondary Education, the forerunner of National
Council for Educational Research and Training (NCERT), where she
rendered valuable service for examination reforms. She organized
workshops and seminars for training Principals, teachers and other
examiners, in framing questions of the problem-solving type, the
questions that we today categorise as 'Application', type and 'high
order thinking' (HOTS) type. She was much ahead of her times in
many ways. Today, educationists recommend the 'constructive
approach' and the 'life skills' approach to education. All this was inbuilt
not only in classroom teaching and learning in Lady Irwin School but
in all the numerous activities that we joyfully carried out from 9 am
to 4 pm six days a week.In 1962, Ms. Sengupta visited schools in London and European
countries on a sponsorship from British Council and brought back
ideas which she took no time to implement for the benefit of students.
She was also associated with the literacy unit of the Bharatiya Gramin
Mahila Samiti and contributed towards literacy of adult rural women.
Those were not the days when sartorial splendour was as important
as today. But we remember that she wore well ironed saris and
matching blouses which were well stitched. She spent her workingyears in a small two room apartment on the first floor of the school
building and took great care of her invalid brother. She was an ace
cook and invited her students with spouses for a meal when they got
married. She was of large frame but her bulky body belied the brisk
speed with which she walked and the colossal amount of work that
she put in. The school in her times had a fleet of buses including a
double decker. Whenever she went out of school she would beconspicuous by being the sole passenger in a school bus.
Madhavi Mudgal (Year 1967), the well known Odissi dancer
remembers her as a visionary and a stickler for discipline. When she
uttered the word 'Now, children' and 'Quiet', to two thousand odd
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students assembled for prayers near the gymnasium, there would be
pindrop silence in fraction of a second.
There was no school uniform in her days. Madhurima Bose (Year1974), a wild life photographer recalls how Ms. Sengupta often
justified by saying that her girls in colourful clothes looked like
butterflies in a garden. Also she had the courage of conviction to say
that 'my girls would be identified by their good manners, respect for
elders, helpful nature and the ease with which they would
communicate in English as well as Vernacular'. Kiran Walia (Year
1959), now Minister of Social Welfare, Woman and Child and
Languages in the Delhi State Government recalls an interesting
anecdote. On a cold winter morning, dressed in flared coat, she, then
a fifteen year old, was walking close to the ledge when a flower pot
got knocked down by the ends of her coat. Ms. Sengupta appeared
from nowhere, says Kiran, and took her affectionately to the Principal's
room. She said, 'the
manner in which a
person should walkand conduct oneself
is learnt in school'.
Kiran says she has
not forgotten this
incident even today.
Ms. Sengupta
had an uncanny
knack ofremembering the
names of her
students and
knowing finer
details about them.
Says Ranjana
Saxena (Year1973), Assistant
Professor in Dayal
Singh College,
Delhi University, 'ItKamala Sengupta
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is strange how she would take no time to spot each one of the girls
when the respective parents came to enquire about their wards.' In
fact parents had so much faith in her that they would even seek herhelp. In the late nineteen fifties, tight tops (kamize worn with salwar)
became very popular with young girls. Since there was no school
uniform, some girls insisted on wearing tight shirts to school. For three
consecutive days she announced in the assembly that tights were not
permissible in school. A week later, she made the defaulters line up
and used a pair of scissors to loosen the shirts from the sides. Later
she announced that this step was taken at the behest of the mothers
who sought her help in this regard as every morning a lot of their time
was wasted in helping their daughters get into tight shirts.
The importance of a rapport between teachers and parents was well
realized by her. In fact she and Ms. Rajni Kumar, the founder of
Springdale's school were the pioneers of the PTA movement in the
country. Ms. Sengupta was the honorary secretary of the Delhi Parent
Teacher Organisation till the end of her life. Today it is mandatory
for every school to have a PTA. Ours is a government aided schooland so financial crunches are inevitable. But she had such good
relations with parents that she always got help from them in upgrading
the infrastructure of the school. She also involved parents teaching
in the university to be on the interview board when selecting teachers
for the school.
All her students were appreciated for their achievements and
encouraged to do better. Saroj Tuli (Year 1955) relives those days
when after the inter-school netball or throwball match their victoriousteam entered the school portals in the school bus shouting 'hip hip
hurray', Ms. Sengupta would always be there to greet and congratulate
each one individually. She would also be there to cheer up whenever
the team lost which, however, was not very often. Aparajita Agnihotri
(Year 1956), the skin specialist, who stood first among girls in the
Science Stream in that year recalls that Ms. Sengupta had written in
her report book, 'should try to get a position in the higher secondaryexamination' which had boosted her efforts. Even her punishments
were positive. Says Neelam Gupta, the banker, 'One day we were
watching cricket match on the television when we should have been
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learning lessons taught through the TV. She caught us unawares, and
immediately asked us to get our parents the next day. In all politeness,
in front of the parents she told us that she wanted her girls to learn todo the right thing at the right time. You were sent to the TV room to
learn the lesson being presented on TV.'
She would try out innovative methods to improve the academic
pursuits of her students. A house with a chemistry laboratory was
donated to the school by a well-wisher. This was in Dagshai in Shimla
Hills, and year after year, students of higher classes were sent for extra
coaching with teachers during the summer vacation. There were no
formal classes on Moral Education in our school but famous orators
were invited to address students. The following excerpt is from a
message for students printed in the diaries.Whenever, we the classmates meet, we relive and revisit our school
days. We remember and salute our teachers and our principal. Last
time when we met we recalled Swami Ranganathananda's visit to
our school. He was from Rama Krishna Mission and our Principal
Ms. Kamala Sengupta had invited him to address all inmates of the
school. We still remember what he told us. He told us what the
vowels in English stood for and urged us to make those a part of
our lives.
A, he said stood for ambition, without which one cannot progress
in life. E, stands for energy which is needed all the time and makes
a good diet necessary. I, is for inspiration, which we need to draw
from great humans, elders, any good act or incident and above all
from nature. O, stands for order which means discipline and without
which time can never be managed. U is for unity without which nogreat tasks are achieved. I share this with you because these values
are eternal.
Ms. Sengupta literally hand-picked the best teachers, and also the
best students who joined mid-stream. Justice Ms. Gita Mittal (Year
1975) revisits the day when as an eleven year old she accompanied
her father for an interview with the principal. Gita was one of the four
who had qualified for admission to class VI out of of 600 odd
applicants, after a stiff admission test. When Gita's father asked Ms.
Sengupta why such a rigorous procedure for other classes and just a
lottery system of picking up chits with names of children for admission
to the nursery, she promptly replied, "Why should I hold an admission
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test for the nursery class? What are my teachers worth if they cannot
mould raw innocent, flexible tiny tots into graceful human beings?"
She had the eyes of a hawk when selecting teachers. Sheanticipated the versatility in music in Neel Madhab Sinha, who
recently passed away. Straight from Manipur, Neel Madhab Sinha was
offered accommodation for his family to retain him in school. At
Masterji's (as all of us called him) memorial service, Indu Bulbul Sud
(Year 1954) recalled how Masterji composed the music and the dance
and taught the song "Phaile Kheton mein door talak" to almost one
thousand students because Ms. Sengupta wanted the involvement of
as many girls as possible. She believed in providing opportunities for
holistic learning. This is evident from the PT shows that were held
annually at National Stadium. Ms. Sengupta realized the importance
of physical training and made PT and games compulsory for students
of all classes. She convinced the Governing Body of the school to
send Ms. Uma Guha to Canada for training in aerobics and physical
exercises which Ms. Guha taught us after coming back from Canada,
to the accompaniment of piano played by Ms. Gordon. PT showshelped the school raise money and parents enjoy their daughters'
performance. It was always a gala show and the whole school,
teaching and non-teaching staff and students worked hard for days to
make it a grand success.
Similarly bus loads of school girls were sent to Ramakrishna
Mission for speech, recitation and declamation competitions. A week
before the competition, teachers helped students prepare for the
competition. Today this is thought of as waste of time as regular classeswould have to be suspended. Today, the only competition that is of
importance to teachers is the 'examination' and unfortunately so,
because once examination becomes the sole objective of school
education children are prevented from developing self confidence and
self esteem, building interpersonal relationships and developing
effective communication. In our school these life skills were built in
through co-curricular activities. Inter in-house dramatic competitionswere held in the school itself. Many prizes were won at the Shankar's
weekly painting competition. Our school always exhibited a unique
item in the Republic Day parade. Bharati Das who as a mountaineer
had scaled many heights, was selected by Ms. Sengupta. The bamboo
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dance taught by her was considered a real feat of dexterity. But Ms.
Sengupta was always on the lookout for teachers who would scale
up the academic achievement of the school. One such teacher whomshe brought in was Mr. Mulherkar who taught Physics. Our school
for many years had the highest success rate in board exams apart from
position holders in the board like Rama Daga who stood first in the
year 1964 and Chandralekha Mukherji who stood second in the year
1992. In 1966, all those who attempted National Science Talent
Scholarship were awarded the scholarship.
'My girls will be identified by the manner in which they conduct
themselves'. Truly enough, all Irwinites have made a name as home-
makers. They have also made a name in their chosen careers. Apart
from many many medical practitioners and teachers, there are Shaswati
Sen and Bhaswati Mishra (1974) the Kathak dancers, Ranjana Gauhar
(1965) and Madhavi Mudgal (1966) the Odissi dancers, Subhadra
Joshi and Madhumita Pakrasi Roy (1972) the classical Hindustani
Music Vocalists, Arpana Kaur (1970) and Arpita Singh (1954) the
painters and artists, screen actor Suhasini Mulay (1966), architects likeManjari Gupta (1979), bankers like Karabi Banerji (1972), theatre
personalities like Kirti Jain (1965), bureaucrats like Keya
Bhattacharya, college principals like Babli Moitra and Pratibha Jolly
(1968), CEO of Indian Airlines Monju Banerjee and aircraft pilots
like Tanushree Bhattacharya, scientists like Harmeet Rekhi (1972).
There are hoteliers and chefs and theatre artists and educationists.
Think of a profession and it will be represented by an Irwinite. All
the voices echo in unison, three cheers for Lady Irwin School andMs. K. Sengupta.
(Bharati Sarkar (nee Dutt) is an educationist.
She passed out of the school in 1956. She is on the school's
Governing Body and Managing Committee.)
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The fast-emerging middle-class India is a country
with its eyes firmly fixed on the future. Everywhere there
is a profound hope that the country's growing
international status will somehow compensate for a
past often perceived as a long succession of invasionsand defeats at the hands of foreign powers. Whatever
the reason, the result is a tragic neglect of Delhi's
magnificent past. Sometimes it seems as if no other
great city of the world is less loved, or less cared for.
Occasionally there is an outcry as the tomb of the poet
Zauq is discovered to have disappeared under a
municipal urinal or the haveli courtyard house of hisrival Ghalib is revealed to have been turned into a
coal store; but by and large the losses go unrecorded.
I find it heartbreaking : often when I revisit one of
my favourite monuments it has either been overrun by
some slum or container park, unsympathetically
restored or reconstructed by the Archaeological Survey
of India (ASI) or, more usually, simply demolished.Ninety-nine per cent of the delicate havelis or Mughal
courtyard houses of Old Delhi have been destroyed,
and like swathes of the city walls have disappeared
into memory.the loss of Delhi's past is irreplaceable;
and future generations will inevitably look back at the
conservation failures of the early twenty-first century
with a deep sadness.
William Dalrymple
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Bridges are not new to India as references to the Ram Setu of
Tretayug show. Closer in time, there exists near Patna excavated
masonry piers dating to the Mauryan period. Other medieval ones
include those at Machilipatnam, Akbar's 190 metre long bridge across
the Gomti at Jaunpur, the stone bridge at Vijayanagara in Karnataka,Atharanala at Orissa, Sama bridge near Vadodara in Gujarat amongst
many others. In Delhi too, there are several bridges of historical and
archaeological interest, most of which are in disuse, some in a state of
disrepair and some even partly or fully ruined / demolished. We will
take a look at a few of these.
Merely for the fun of semantics, let us first take the three bridges
Satpullah, Athpullah and Barahpullah. Quite apparently, the names
suggest seven, eight and twelve piers (or arches or gates) respectively.Satpullah - This exquisite three-storied bridge once formed a part
of the original Jahanpanah walls of the fourth city of Delhi founded
by Mohammed Shah Tuglak in 1326-27. It now falls in Hauz Khas
district, east of Khirkee village opposite Saket Mall. It is a very
interesting structure built to allow a stream to pass beneath the wall
and provide security to the ramparts at the same time. The stream is
now diverted and runs further east.There are 7 piers of true arches at one level (actually 11, but 7
main ones) and a further set of two more arches at a higher level each
of which leads to a long barrel vaulted passageway. Higher levels are
gates; intermediate level gates are closed on the outside; on each side
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of those are fortified bastions containing octagonal rooms with elegant
plasterwork decorations. Each wall of the octagonal chambers have
arrow slots for defence.
Above the culverts and passageways there were platforms at
appropriate levels with access via identical narrow stairs to the latter.
The sluice gates acted as a dam after being lowered into position and
were also used for defence. There are 11 arched openings, the side
walls of which are grooved for sliding gates with which the force of
Satpullah
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the stream flowing from south through the openings could be regulated.
The building was once damaged by a flood so a bund was created
further south where the famous sufi saint Roshan-Chiragh-e-Dillibathed and whose waters are still considered to have healing properties.
How to get there : Off Press Enclave Marg opposite the District Court
Complex next to the Saket Mall.
Athpullah - Built during the reign of Akbar (1556-1605) by a local
Nawab, it has eight piers and seven arches. It still functions as a bridge,
albeit over an ornamental pool in Lodi Gardens and not over a Yamuna
tributary as it used to, and is a non-religious beautifully protectedmonument of archaeological value A.
The walls are of dressed stone masonry with a vaulted stone roof.
It has 8 piers and 7 arches with arch breadth of 11 feet and 6 inches,
pillar height of 17 feet and 6 inches, stone length 2 feet height 3 feet
each a parabolic true arch. It is 29 feet across and 2 feet wide on top
of the bridge.How to get there : Enter Lodi Gardens from the north. Athpula lies a
little to the east of the Sikander Lodi tomb. (For the record, Lodi Gardens
was established in 1936 as Lady Willingdon Park.)
Athpullah
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Barapullah - Built during the Jehangir period by Mihir Ban Agha
[1611-12] of the Arab serai and Eastern gateway (at Humayun's Tomb
complex) fame, it has ten piers or arches but 12 towers or pallahs. Itis now amidst the fruit and vegetable market behind the Nizamuddin
railway station. This old bridge spans a once tributary of the Yamuna,
now a nala, and used to carry the main Delhi traffic to Agra. In 1628
the road between the bridge and Humayun's tomb was a wide tree lined
path and this was the handsomest bridge of Delhi. An ASI protected
monument (notified in 1916), it has been in use for 400 years.
It is a massive structure made of random rubble masonry with stone
vaulted roofs and 10 feet high minars, one on each side of every arch.
In 1911, the residents of Raisina village were uprooted for the
construction of the Rashtrapati Bhavan, and rehabilitated in Bhogal,
just beyond this bridge. The present condition of the bridge is serious
and needs attention.
How to get there : On the road connecting Nizamuddin Railway
Station and Rajdoot Hotel.
Wazirabad - This Feroz Shah Tuglak(1351-88) period bridge over
a Yamuna tributary (now a nala) was notified as ASI Class A in 1918.
It consists of nine pier arches and alcoves with nine bays (5 fully
Barapullah
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visible) built of random rubble masonry and lime plaster with a dressed
stone facing, now restored with cement. It is off Timarpur and abutsthe rear corner of the mosque (one with a women's viewing gallery)
of Shah Alam (a well known saint of the Tuglak era) and is about 1.5
km north of Majnu ka tila gurudwara. It is in use as a bridge even
today though in a state of serious deterioration due to overuse and
neglect.
The eastern and western walls of the chamber are pierced by
circular and oblong holes access to which is by a general staircase in
its northern and southern walls. The original paved causeway runs overthe bridge in its entire length and is raised in a series of steps towards
the centre where the height of the bridge is the greatest.
How to get there : Stay on the right (straight) going from ISBT
past Majnu Ka Tila and turn right at the flyover. The bridge is on the
right. Ask for Shah Alam's Tomb.
Old Yamuna iron bridge - Lattice and Girder type bridge builtby the British and opened to railway traffic in the month of January,
1867. The second railway track was laid in 1913. It has a span of 65
metres, twelve piers with rocker and roller hinges. It came up after
tearing down the ancient Salimgarh/Nurgarh original bridge (see
Wazirabad
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below). The present bridge has piers built on ten wells sunk 33 feet
below water level to prevent scour.How to get there : While going north from Rajghat, take the road goingalong the electric crematorium behind the Salimgarh Fort.
Salimgarh bridge - As you approach Nigam Bodh Ghat from
Rajghat, you pass under an arch of the railway track coming from
Calcutta to Old Delhi Railway station. On your left is the Red Fort
and what you see on your right are the remains of the Salimgarh Fort
built by Salim Shah Suri, son of Sher Shah Suri. After getting backcontrol of Delhi from Sher Shah, Humayun renamed it as Nurgarh.
Salimgarh Fort was used as a prison several times. Aurangzeb had
kept his brother Murad here before sending him to Gwalior for
execution. He then imprisoned his daughter Zebunissa here till her
death 21 years later. INA prisoners were kept here from 1945 to 1947.
The Fort has been compared to the Tower of London or the Bastille
of Paris. It is now called the Swatantrata Senani Smarak.
As per a marble inscription kept in the ASI fort museum, Emperor
Jehangir built a bridge connecting the Salimgarh Fort with the Red
Fort. If that is correct, this is the only Jehangir structure in Delhi. There
is an alternative theory that the bridge was built by a jagirdar, Farid
Old Yamuna iron bridge
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Khan. Prior to that Salimgarh Fort could be accessed only by boat as
the Yamuna flowed there. The Yamuna had shifted considerably to
the east by the time of Bahadur Shah Zafar, as he is said to have been
flying kites on its banks next to the Salimgarh Fort, with a crowd
gathering for his darshan.
The old Salimgarh bridge had five arches which sprung flush from
the face of the abutments. It was strengthened by a series of arched
ribs springing from corbels that projected from the face of the
abutments which gave an appearance of lightness with great strength.How to get there : Same as above, only keep to the left along the Red
Fort.
Pontoon Bridge (Bridge of Boats) - The pontoons 1-7 are all
present but not on the river. They lie hidden in the undergrowth behind
the Indraprastha Metro Station. It has not been reused after the monsoonseason of 2007. Today, in 2011, it may have little meaning but not so
long ago it was regularly used by the drivers of two wheelers and other
light traffic. It must have been quite strong at one time as it bore the
weight of the Meerut mutineers pouring into the city on horseback on
Salimgarh bridge
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the morning of 11th May 1857 and then the thousands of the Delhi
residents fleeing the city from the 17th to 19th of September the sameyear. It was on the early morning of the 17th that Zafar himself slipped
away by boat down the Yamuna to the dargah of Nizamuddin Auliya.
There was another significant exodus over the Pontoon Bridge. On
7th October 1858, Bahadur Shah Zafar left Delhi over this bridge in
a bullock cart on a journey that was to take him to banishment in
Rangoon.How to get there : you can see the pantoons behind the Indraprastha
Metro station. The original Bridge of Boats, at the time of Zafar crossed theYamuna at the then Calcutta Gate near Salimgarh.
Khalji bridge at Siri - It is an unprotected monument dating back
to the early part of the 14th century (1304) at the Khaje city of Siri.
It is located within the green cover of the southwest entrance to the
Siri Fort residential complex. It features 3 true parabolic arches. Total
span is over 6 meters supported on a three vaulted chamber, the largestbeing the central one. It lies adjacent to the walls of the fort over a
depression in the land through which once flowed a stream. It is made
of random rubble masonry, belongs to archaeological status B and is
in a fair state of preservation.
Pontoon
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How to get there : Coming south from Ansal Plaza, Andrews Ganj, turn
in right at the crossing just before the Siri Fort Auditorium. The bridge is in
the park on the left.
Kamal Ataturk Marg bridge - A colonial period bridge (1930)
near the Race Course, it is located adjacent to the Lady Willingdon
Camp near the Hotel Ashok. It is an NDMC owned unprotected
monument of Archaeological category C built of brick masonry with
true arches and has a span of 20 meters and is open to road traffic.
The status is fair but a similar period pedestrian bridge a further 200
m south along the same nala could no longer be located. How to get there : Near the Samrat Hotel roundabout adjacent to
Santushti.
These were some of the beautiful monumental bridges of Delhi
which are still extant, go out and find them today, enjoy them for whatthey were as they may not exist tomorrow.
(Amita Sen is a paediatric surgeon)
Khalji bridge
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Our memories of India together cover half the twenties,
the thirties and half the forties of this century. It is a longtime ago and apart from political changes, others in the
social sphere have been drastic. A new India has
emerged with new outlooks, new stresses, new hopes and
fears.
. Who would believe today, for example, that the New
Delhi of the thirties was one of the quietest, most spacious
and traffic-free cities in India, that the Delhi of the twenties
was still in essence an old-world provincial city, with a
sprawling but empty suburb to the south, and a cold
weather incursion of "high-ups" to the north, longing to
escape from their tents and temporary quarters to the
coolness of Simla each March-April.
. We saw in those years not only the transformation of
Delhi from a provincial city to a metropolis but also the
last years of the countryside as it had existed for
centuries.
. When the first of us came to Delhi in 1924, Mahatma
Gandhi had emerged from his first imprisonment and was
about to embark on his first great fast. When we joined in
setting up house, the Civil Disobedience movement of 1930had collapsed; India was in a doldrums of repression and
realignment. When we left, the British were about to
appear victorious in World War II, apparently, for the
moment, stronger than they had been for decades. Within
these time limits there lies a vanished world.
Percival & Margaret Spear
India Remembered
1980
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, , ,
,
( , , |
, ,
, ,
Bharat Lama
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1. Yamuna River2. Salimgarh
15. Khairati Gate16. Rajghat Gate
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SHAHAJAHANABADat the time of Shahajahan
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Gardens
Havelis
Temples