Hans Brinker Sailboat Plans

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By Gerald Taylor White Design by West/own Associates T HE fame of the Grey Dawn type of Dutch aux- iliary is, literally, world-wide. Many of you are familiar with Flying Dutchman, the 22-footer that appeared in MI in Dec, 1948, and Jan., 1949. This design has the same basic hull form but has been mathematically reduced to an over-all length of 16 feet. Obviously a boat of this length is not a deep-sea voyager, but for the man who wants a boat that will go out in rough water, that is easy to build that is comfortable, and that will last for a lifetime, there 126 Mechanix Illustrated

description

A dutch style sailboat plans.

Transcript of Hans Brinker Sailboat Plans

Page 1: Hans Brinker Sailboat Plans

By Gerald Taylor White

Design by West/own Associates

THE fame of the Grey Dawn type of Dutch aux-iliary is, literally, world-wide. Many of you are

familiar with Flying Dutchman, the 22-footer thatappeared in MI in Dec, 1948, and Jan., 1949. Thisdesign has the same basic hull form but has beenmathematically reduced to an over-all length of16 feet.

Obviously a boat of this length is not a deep-seavoyager, but for the man who wants a boat that willgo out in rough water, that is easy to build that iscomfortable, and that will last for a lifetime, there

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is little offered that will beat Hans Brinker.Like all of the Grey Dawns, she requires

no steam-bending of frames. While she fol-lows the lines of the Dutch boats that havebeen used in the North Sea for centuries,she may best be described in terms intel-ligible to most Americans as a modificationof the famous Gloucester dory, but she hasmore stability, less of a tendency to pound,and a lot more room.

The cabin is not intended for seriouscruising, but there is sitting headroom anda couple of folks who do not mind rough-ing it could cruise for days in her. The bestauxiliary power would be an outboardengine hooked either to the transom or toa bracket attached to the stern.

Specifications

Deck fittings and all other hardwarethroughout the boat should be of bronzeor brass. All fastenings should be of Ever-dur, copper, or bronze and should be set incounterbores and fitted with plugs on theoutside. All faying surfaces should besmeared with marine glue or white lead.The lines of the entire boat should be laiddown full size from the dimensions givenin the table of offsets and lines drawing.

Keel. White oak, in one piece, 3 in. thick,shaped as shown. Note that the top of thekeel is 7/8 in. above the fairbody line. FromStation 4 to 7/8 in. forward of Station 7, cuta slot through the keel 1-1/8 in. in width.

Deadwood. White oak, 3 in. thick, shapedas shown.

Keel Battens. White oak, 7/8 x 5 in., fitteddown tightly on top of the keel betweenframes, except in way of the centerboardtrunk, and fastened with 2-in. boat nails.

Stem. White oak, 3 x 5 in.Stem Knee. White oak, 3 in. thick, shaped

as shown.Stem Post. White oak, 3 x 4 in.Stern Knee. White oak, 3 in. thick, shaped

as shown.Cheek Pieces. White oak, 7/8 x 1 in.,

screw-fastened to bottoms of stem, stemknee, stern post, and stern knee to takeplanking.

Stopwaters. White pine, 1/2 in. dia., setin holes bored through the rabbet line atthe junctions of the keel and stem, dead-wood, stern post, and centerboard head-ledges.

Keel Fastenings. There should be at leastfive 3/8-in. bolts through the stem knee, asimilar number through the stern knee,four through the deadwood, and twothrough each of the headledges.

Transom. Philippine mahogany or whiteoak, 1-1/4 in. thick, t h r u - b o l t e d to the

stern post. Made up of pieces about 10 in. inwidth with each seam backed with a screw-fastened oak batten not less than 7/8x1-1/2in. Around the forward face of the transom,7/8 x 2-in. white-oak cleats should bescrewed to form a backing for the planking.

Sampson Post. White oak or locust, 3 x 3in., mortised into the stem and projectingabove the deck as shown. To be fitted witha 1/2 x 7-in. bronze pin.

Centerboard Construction. Substitutingfor the keel battens there are 2 x 2-in. oaklogs rabbeted 3/4 in. deep and 7/8 in. widealong the inner upper edges. It is very im-portant that these centerboard logs bemade exceptionally watertight. They fastento the keel with long screws passingthrough the rabbet and bolt through theheadledges. The headledges are of 1-1/8 x 3-in. white oak. They extend from the bottomof the centerboard slot to the cabin roof.The centerboard trunk is formed of 7/8-in.white oak with the pieces approximately8 in. wide. To insure watertightness, awhite-oak batten, about 1/2 x 1-1/2 in., isscrewed along each seam. The trunk sidesscrew-fasten to the headledges and to thetrunk logs. In way of the trunk, the framesare to be notched over the log and through-bolted as shown. The centerboard itself isof %-in. white oak built up as shown in thedetail and fastened together with 1/2-in.dowels. The hole for the 1/2-in. centerboardpin is bushed with a piece of brass pipe andthe holes through the keel are similarlybushed. A piece of lead, 7/8 x 6 in., is letinto the centerboard to overcome flotation.One of the best ways to hold the lead inplace is to bore a hole through each cornerof the lead with a portion of the hole cut-ting the lead and the remainder passingthrough the oak; then four bolts with largewashers can be run through. It will benecessary to counterbore so there will beno chance of the bolts striking the slot.

Frames. White oak, 7/8 in. thick, eachcomposed of five parts: one bottom frame,two side frames, and two topside frames.The bottom frames are 3 in. wide and theother frames are 2-1/2 in. wide. Particularattention should be paid to the erectiondrawing, which shows the location of thevarious parts of the frames as compared tothe station marks. The parts lap each otherand fasten together with 1/4 x 2-in. bolts

Sheer Clamps. White oak or longleafyellow pine in single lengths, 1-1/8x2-1/2in.Set at each frame so the deck beam willrest upon them. Fasten each at each framewith one long boat nail and one screw.

Breasthook. Longleaf yellow pine orspruce, about 2 in. thick, to fill in the tri-angle at the deck forward of the Sampson

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post. Should be screw-fastened from theoutside; then two fillers should be addedoutboard of the clamps as shown.

Chines. These are on the outside of theboat and actually form planks. White oakor longleaf yellow pine, l-1/4x3 in. At thestem and stern cleats, they are to be verystrongly fastened and boxed in wherenecessary.

Deck Beams. White oak or spruce, 7/8 x 2in., cut to a radius of 24 feet and bolted orscrew-fastened to the frame heads asshown. On the undersides, the cornersshould be chamfered off.

Planking. Philippine mahogany, whitecedar, white pine, or cypress, 7/8 in. thick,preferably in single lengths. Not countingthe chine, there are four bottom planks oneach side, six side planks, and one topsideplank. All planks fasten to the frames with1-3/4-in. screws. If the fastenings areplugged the screws may be reduced to 1-1/2in. All plank seams should be slightly bev-eled to leave 1/16-in. calking seams.

Decking. White pine, 7/8-in. T&G, boat-nailed to the deck beams and covered with10-oz. canvas laid in marine glue. At thehatch and cabin openings, the canvas shouldbe turned down.

Most Step. White oak or longleaf yellowpine, measuring 2 x 9 x 20 in., notchedaround the headledge and over frames No.7 and 8, through-bolted to the frames, andmortised with a 2 x 2-in. hole for the mast.

Hatch. Mahogany, set on 7/8 x 1-1/2-in.white-oak coamings. A ledge must bescrewed all around the hatch that will fitdown over the coamings. Hooks or otherfastenings should be provided to suit.

Waterways. Philippine mahogany orwhite oak, about 7/8 x 7/8 in., except for-ward, where they should be widened to2-1/2-in. buffalo rails, as shown.

Cabin and Coaming. Philippine mahog-any or white oak, l-1/8 in. thick, shaped asshown. Set in 8 in. from the rail line andfit very tightly against the deck. Cut a shal-low groove along the under edge and lay athread of lamp wicking, soaked in marineglue, in the groove. Fasten with long screwspassing up through the decking. In way ofthe windows, openings are cut out and rab-beted to receive [Continued on page 156]

LARGE-SCALE PLANSwill greatly simplify construction. Send $3 toMECHANIX ILLUSTRATED Plans Service,Faweett Building, Greenwich, Conn. Please

specify Plan No. B-I9I.

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Hans Brinkex[Continued from page 130]

double-thick glass that's held in place withquarter-round moldings. To give additionallight and ventilation, two 4-in. portholesshould be installed in forward end of cabin.

Cabin Roof Beams. White oak or spruce,3/4 x 1-3/4 in, crowned 1 in. in every 2 feet ofspan. Chamfer off the under corners. Screw-fasten to the cabin with long screws.

Cabin Facing. Mahogany. 3/4 x 6 in., screwedto the deck beams to form the ledge of a shelfaround the cabin and to cover ends of beams.

Cartings. White oak or longleaf yellow pine,7/8 x 2 in., running entire length of cabin andcockpit and screw-fastened to the undersidesof the deck beams after cabin is in place.

Cabin Roof. White pine or spruce, 3/4-in.T&G, nailed to beams and canvas covered.

Spars. Spruce. The mast is built up of 1/2-in.stock with fillers, as shown in the detail. Theboom and bowsprit are solid pieces.

Standing Rigging. The shrouds and the fore-stay are 5/32-in. flexible wire properly eye-spliced at the ends and fitted with shackles.The bobstay is 3/16-in. wire.

Running Rigging. The main and jib halyardsare 3/8-in. yacht manila The rigging of themain sheet is as follows: from an eye bolt onthe starboard side of the transom, the sheetleads up through one sheave of a double blockattached to the boom, down through a singleblock on the port side of the transom, then upthrough the remaining sheave of the block onthe boom. The jib sheets are double and of1/2-in. yacht manila. The same diameter isused for the main sheet. The topping lift is3/8-in. manila. Since some difficulty may behad in passing a splice through centerboardtrunk, it is suggested that two feet of center-board pennant be a piece of brass bell chainwith remaining part 3/8-in. manila.

Blocks. The following will be necessary: forjib halyard, one single block; for main hal-yard, one single block; for topping lift, onecheek block; for main sheet, one single blockon swivel and one double block on plate; forjib sheet, two fairleaders; and for center-board pennant, one cheek block or one blockon plate depending upon lead for pennant.

Rudder. White oak, 1-1/4 in. thick, made oftwo pieces doweled together, shaped as shown,with a tiller hole and bolted cheek pieces.

Tiller. White oak, 3 feet 7 inches long, 1-3/16in. thick, and 2-1/2 in. wide, rounded off andtapered to l-1/2 in. wide at forward end. To slipinto hole in rudder and be held by a pin.

Moldings. At the rail and sheer, install 1-in.half-round moldings. At the cabin edge, in-stall 3/4-in. half-round moldings. •

March, 1951