The world is in a deep reflection. From fashionto food and all the way to the ubiquitous mum-and-pop retail stores and old-school barbers, life islooking back as a respite to the turbo speed it hastaken on. Fast-moving technologies and hyper-modernity have left people longing for the familiarand the comforting, resulting in the tremendous riseof retro all over.

“Fashion has frequently had an element ofnostalgia – just think of the way that the empire linesof the early 1800s idealised the dress of classicalGreece and Rome. But contemporary fashion isprobably the most retrospective of all,” says PninaFenster, style icon and editor-in-chief at Glamour

South Africa, who won the South African Style Awardat the annual competition’s 13th edition.

“[This is due to] several reasons: we have more todraw on and more resources at our fingertips; periodmovies and TV shows have had a massive influenceon current style; and, yes, the past is another countryin which things just look prettier. Finally, the tactility,romance, individuality and eco-consciousness ofvintage touches have a special resonance in the ageof mass production, fast-changing trends and instant access.”

The retrospective trend has also extended toaccessories and brought back a collection ofbeautiful, sometimes unusual, pieces that celebrate

STORY DANIEL SCHEFFLER

HANDS OF TIMERetro accessories have made their way back into the world ofhandmade luxury for seekers of artisanal beauty

ABOVEAt Milan’s Maglia, everystep in making an umbrellais done by hand by veteranartisans.

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the true essence of luxury – inimitable, scarcecraftsmanship. In contrast to the usual bling andclichéd brand stamps, accessories – especially theartisanal ones – are celebrated for their subtle yetexquisite beauty and meticulous detail.

“Handcrafted luxury items take time to produce, and time is the greatest luxury,” says Emma Parker, a London designer and owner of thejewellery brand Alexandra. It takes a real artist orcraftsman’s patience and skill to produce luxuryaccessories, and, according to Parker, “nowhere is this dedication more apparent than in the crafting of collector’s items where intricatehandiwork indicates devotion”.

In addition to the time and dedication required tocraft these pieces, consumers are also deeplyinterested in their history. “More and more, I thinkabout how our objects relate to our ideas. Growingup, my favourite jewellery were the retro pieces Iinherited because they were meaningful,” saysElizabeth Suda, founder and CEO of ARTICLE22. “Ilook at [the brand’s] designs as history’s heirlooms.Our new bomb shard necklaces tell the story of thepresence of the 80 million unexploded bombs in Laosthat plague farms and forests today – they don’t onlydraw you in with their distinct beauty, but they alsohave a far greater story to tell.”

From exquisite parasols and hand-decorated

handkerchiefs to sculpted canes and socksuspenders, the world of forgotten handcrafters isfinding light again. “There is this definite search fordistinctive and unique handmade pieces in order toliberate traders and craftsmen who championindividuality and have unfortunately suffered at thehands of mass consumerism,” Parker explains. In ahomogenised, interconnected world, the thoroughand new-again appreciation for beautiful handmadeobjects stemming from individual cultures is unsurprising.

Fine parasols and umbrellas are alwaysmethodically made by hand, and in Paris thebrand Heurtault, with Michel Heurtault as the

CONTEMPORARY FASHION IS THE MOSTRETROSPECTIVE OF ALL PNINA FENSTER OF GLAMOUR

BELOWBangles and rings from ARTICLE22are known for their artisanal beauty.

LEFTThe Bolts bangle from ARTICLE22 hasa retro yet bold edge.

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imminent couture umbrella designer, is where theworld’s bespoke items are sourced. Heurtault refersto the art of umbrella-making as “alchemy”, with aparticular attention and respect to the silk’s tension.It is guaranteed that they will “never make anumbrella that will turn inside out”. The business,hidden in the French capital, only creates about 200umbrellas per year and uses maple, ebony,rosewood, leather and even animal heads as itconstructs these masterpieces for seekers of pureartisanal beauty.

Umbrellas date back to the antique civilisations ofPersepolis and were first seen handled by a servantof King Xerxes of Persia and later by Emperor Qin ShiHuang in Xian, with his terracotta warriors steering itfor him – both with material stretched out and spokesholding it all together elegantly.

Since then, umbrellas haven’t changed all thatmuch. By the 1800s, the “bourgeois umbrella”, withbrass runner, tips and ferrule, was mixed withcolourful canopies and became more common on thestreets. By the 20th century, umbrellas were easily

foldable, still handmade but by now hardy enough towithstand any weather conditions.

Today, for historic Italian finery, it is Maglia, a five-generation, family-run umbrella manufacturer fromMilan, which sells its goods at the world’s mostexclusive retailers. In a world where umbrellas onthe street are sold for a few dollars, what the Magliafamily does is luxury in all its handmade glory.

Or there is Bertrand Mak’s eponymous luxurybrand, inspired by a passion to put craftsmanshipbefore anything else. There is a collection ofumbrellas featuring an animal head handle coveredin 24ct gold leaf – a process that is done by hand,making each piece unique. All the umbrellas aremade by Fox Umbrellas in Britain.

Handcrafted rare canes, on the other hand, havemostly attracted men, with some exceptions forladies such as Marlene Dietrich. In Vienna’s oldcentre is where, for the last 176 years, WilhelmJungmann und Neffe has presented the world’sfinest accessories – one of its classics and mostprized is the cane.

Some canes, with the highest value and mosthours put into their manufacturing, are made fromwood with a brass parrot or Emperor Franz Josephas the head, dating back to the height of its fashion inthe 18th century, although the cane, as a token ofsocial stature, actually dates back to the 16th century, when kings and fancy aristocrats encrustedthese walking sticks with precious metals andextravagant jewels.

Often, canes would have a hidden vial for hoochand possibly a sword concealed within the design.But the idea of a cane as a fashion accessory wasbrought to the world by actor Fred Astaire in severalof his movies – including Top Hat, which features thesong Top Hat, White Tie and Tails.

HANDCRAFTED LUXURY ITEMS TAKE TIME TO PRODUCE EMMA PARKER OF ALEXANDRA

ABOVEMaglia, a five-generation,family-run umbrellamanufacturer from Milan,is proud of its creations.

RIGHTA gentlemen’s umbrellafrom Bertrand Makfeatures a handcraftedgreyhound head.

And on the more practical side of retro accessories are braces and sock suspenders (a laA Fish Called Wanda). The classic braces, called boxcloth, are so called from the tailor’sterm for boiled wool and are having a recurrence with the Brooklyn “Amish” aestheticspreading across the planet. Albert Thurston, serving men’s clothing needs since 1820,offers the classic boxcloth in tweed, linen, wide stripes, fine polka dot or fleur-de-lis.

Historically intended to hold pants up with clips or buttons, today braces are used as asort of fashion statement inspired by a Humphrey Bogart movie line. Less-visible socksuspenders, on the other hand, are all about creating a wrinkle-free look and following thatdesire to add a little exotic flair to an outfit without anyone noticing.

That, perhaps, is what luxury really is – something handcrafted and beautifully made, andsomething that you don’t show off to anyone, as only you know it’s there. It’s something thatyou appreciate deeply and privately, acknowledging the time and meticulous care that wentinto its creation.

LEFTPair your Bertrand Mak umbrella withhis leather accessories.

ABOVENow gloves are for everyoccasion, particularly when least expected.

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FINE CRAFTSMANSHIPHERE ARE SOME OTHER RETROACCESSORIES TO EXPLORE:HAND FANS FROM MAISON SYLVAIN LE GUENUsed for cooling – or, if you’re Rihanna, to hidefrom the paparazzi. Ceremonial fans date backto the 4th century BC, when the ancientGreeks were parading around, but in moderntimes it’s what summers have begged for.

ARM BRACES OR GARTERS FROM ALBERT THURSTONDesigned to hold up shirtsleeves in the dayswhen shirts were always buttoned up andsleeves were long and not custom-designed.Today, it’s ideal for those who want to embracea certain working-class elegance.

HANDKERCHIEFS FROM FRETTEEstablished roughly in the 16th century as away to wipe brows or noses. Ladies andgentlemen are once again finding the art inpurchasing the finest linen versions andpersonalising them.

GLOVES FROM ASPINAL OF LONDONDating back to Homer’s The Odyssey, glovesbecame popular in the 1700s when ladies weresitting down for afternoon tea. Now gloves arefor every occasion, particularly when least expected.