HAN Aspire manual - Horizon HobbyIf you have any questions concerning the construction of the...

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

TMTM

Specifications:

Wingspan: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79"Length: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45"Wing Area:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680 sq. inWeight (Approx.): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36–48 oz.

2 meters114 cm4387 sq cm1020–1360g

• 90% pre-built• Pre-covered in Goldberg UltraCote® transparent blue and white covering• Includes sailplane hardware package with adjustable tow hook• Superb stability during “Hi-Start” launches

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Table of ContentsIntroduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Notes & Warnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Additional Equipment Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Radio Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Field Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Optional Field Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Tools, Supplies, and Adhesives Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Kit Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Section 1: Joining the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6–9

Section 2: Mounting the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Section 3: Installing the Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11–13

Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14–16

Section 5: Installing the Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17–18

Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19–22

Section 7: Control Throw Recommendation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Section 8: Installing the Tow Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Section 9: Installing the Canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25–26

Section 10: Balancing the Aspire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Section 11: Thermal Soaring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28–29

Section 12: Pre-Flight Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Section 13: Test Glide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Section 14: Hangar 9 G-Force . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32–33

Section 15: In-Flight Adjustments for Performance and Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Pitch Attitude . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Minimum Sink Speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Maximum Lift/Drag (L/D) Speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Best Penetration Speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Definitions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

AMA Safety Code. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

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IntroductionThe Aspire has been designed to build quickly and easily, providing you with great looks and exceptional flying performance.Entering the world of sailplanes is both extremely challenging and rewarding. It’s your skill and knowledge of the surrounding atmos-phere combined with the design capabilities of your model that will result in your ability to defy the laws of gravity and produceflights of unbelievable distance or duration. Under the proper conditions, it’s not unusual for flight times of up to an hour or more tobe obtained, limited only by the capacity of the receiver and transmitter batteries or your endurance.

Warning:An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferablyAMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio.

Pre-Assembly: We strongly suggest that before you begin assembly of the kit, you read through this Instruction Manual so you can become familiarwith the parts and assembly sequence. Please assemble the kit according to the sequence provided in this Instruction Manual. Donot attempt to modify or change the kit design as doing so could adversely affect the flying characteristics.

Seek Expert Assistance: If you are new to R/C we suggest you find an experience pilot to check out your aircraft and help you with the first few flights. Thiswill help prevent damage to your model and will speed up the learning process. You can contact local R/C clubs or your hobby shopto obtain the names of experienced R/C pilots who would be willing to help you with your first few flights.

Special Note: Due to changes in weather, wrinkling of the covering can occur. This is the nature of the covering film of the model and can be easilyeliminated using a heat gun or sealing iron.

In Case of Wrinkle:Carefully use a heat gun or sealing iron on the wrinkled area. Then rub the surface with a soft cloth until the surface is smooth again.

If you have any questions concerning the construction of the Aspire, please feel free to contact our Service Department at the address below:

Horizon Hobby Distributors4105 Fieldstone RoadChampaign, IL 61822217-355-9511

Visit our web site at www.horizonhobby.com

Thank you again for purchasing the Hangar 9 Aspire sailplane. We believe you will have many enjoyable hours of challenging andrewarding flight.

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Additional Equipment RequiredRadio Equipment

2 channels (minimum)2 standard servos

You will need at least a two channel radio control system with two servos on an aircraft frequency for use in your Aspire. A standardradio system (4 channels with standard servos) will work fine. The standard size servos will fit into the fuselage of the Aspire.

Recommended JR SystemsJR F400EX

Field EquipmentJRPA003 SwitchJRPR600 ReceiverJRPB3150 Receiver BatteryJRPBS507 Servos

Hi-Start SystemA Hi-Start launch is the most common method of launching gliders. The Aspire does not include a Hi-Start. We suggest the Hangar9 “G-Force” Sailplane Launch System (HAN200 or HAN400), which includes a pre-assembled Hi-Start system. Hi-Start launches willbe discussed later in this instruction manual.

Sailplane Launch System

TM

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Optional Field Equipment

Weight for balancing your Aspire: You will need to balance your Aspire after you’ve completed assembly and have installed the receiver, battery and servos. Use of thestick-on type of weights is recommended and can be obtained at your dealer. Before adding weight to the sailplane, try moving thereceiver battery pack to adjust the center of gravity (usually as far forward as possible).

Foam Rubber:Also, it’s a good idea to use foam rubber (1/4” thick) to wrap your receiver and battery pack to give support and protection in hardlandings.

Tools, Supplies, and Adhesives Required (Not Included in Kit)Tools & Supplies• Medium grit sandpaper • Ruler• Mixing sticks for epoxy • Felt tipped Pen • Epoxy brush • Pencil• Rubbing alcohol • Pliers• Paper towels • Drill• Hobby knife • Drill bit: 1/16”• Wax paper • #64 rubber bands• Small round file • 90° triangle

Adhesives• 30-minute epoxy• 6-minute epoxy• Thin CA-glue• Thick CA-glue• CA debonder• 1/2” masking tape

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Kit Contents

Other PartsA. #64 rubber bandsB. Clevis – HAN1432C. Clevis keeper D. Control horn – HAN1432E. Control horn plate – HAN1432F. Wire snap keeper – HAN1432G. Screws (8mm)

H. Nylon adjustable tow hook – HAN1433I. Screws 4-40 x 12mm – HAN1433J. 4-40 blind nuts – HAN1433K. Washers – HAN1433L. Wing hold down dowels M. Plywood canopy supports – HAN1431N. Small rubber band for canopy

O. Hardwood wing brace – HAN1427P. 6” pushrod wire – HAN1430Q. 12” pushrod wire – HAN1430R. 16” hardwood pushrod – HAN1430S. Heat shrink tubing – HAN1430

Note: Photo of product may vary slightly from contents in box.

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45

2

6

H

G

E

F

K

JI

M

O

Q

P

LC

B

A

D N

SR

Main Parts

1. Left wing – HAN14272. Right wing – HAN14273. Vertical stabilizer/rudder – HAN1428

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Section 1: Joining the Wing

• Right wing panel• Left wing panel• Hardwood wing joiner (dihedral brace)

• 30-minute epoxy • Ruler• Rubbing alcohol • Pencil or felt tipped pen• Paper towels • Mixing stick/epoxy brush• Masking tape • Medium sandpaper• Wax paper

Step 1. Locate the two wing panels and the hardwood wingjoiner. Using a pencil and ruler, measure and mark the center ofthe “V” section of the hardwood wing joiner (dihedral brace).This mark will serve as the centerline when joining the two winghalves. Note that the outer wing panels have already beenattached at the correct polyhedral angle on each wing half.

Step 2. Trial fit the wing joiner (dihedral brace) into one of thewing halves. It should insert smoothly up to the centerlinemarked in Step 1. Now slide the other wing half onto the wingjoiner until the wing halves meet. If the fit is overly tight, it maybe necessary to lightly sand the wing joiner so the wing halvesfit together properly.

Step 3. Check for the correct dihedral angle. Place the wing on a large, flat surface with one wing half resting on the surface.The opposite wing half should be at 3 3/16” as measured wherethe outer and inner wing panels meet on the wing half. See picture below. If necessary, sand the wing joiner until this is achieved.

Note: Before epoxying the wing halves together, it’s a goodidea to make a brace that can be placed under thewing to hold it at the 3 3/16” dihedral angle while theepoxy cures. It’s also a good idea to place wax paperunder the wing center so the epoxy does not adhere tothe work surface.

Step 4. Separate the wing halves and remove the wing joiner.If you’re satisfied with the fit of the wing halves, you can prepare to epoxy the two halves together.

Step 5. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. It’shelpful to place wax paper under the wing to prevent epoxy fromdripping onto your workbench.

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

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Section 1: Joining the Wing

Step 6. Place one wing half on a flat surface (remember thewax paper under the wing). Use an epoxy brush to smear a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner cavity in the wing half.

Step 7. Coat one half of the wing joiner with epoxy on bothsides, up to the line drawn in Step 1. Note the orientation of thewing joiner — the “V” points to the top of the wing, or faces upwhen the wing half is placed on the workbench topside up.Install the epoxy-coated half of the wing joiner into the wingjoiner cavity of the wing panel, up to the centerline mark, makingsure the “V” of the hardwood wing joiner is orientated correctly(see below). Any spilled epoxy can be cleaned up with rubbingalcohol and paper towels. Allow the epoxy to cure before joiningthe other wing half.

Note: You will need to mix up an additional ounce or so ofepoxy to complete the wing joining process.

Step 8. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joinercavity of the other wing half.

Step 9. Next, apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed area ofthe hardwood wing joiner and uniformly coat both wing rootswith epoxy.

CONTINUED

Step 10. Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firmly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out.Also, check to make sure the wing halves align properly. Wipeany excess epoxy away with rubbing alcohol and paper towels.

Step 11. Masking tape can be applied to hold the wing halvestogether while the epoxy cures. Place one wing half on a flat surface and, using the template you made, prop up the other winghalf at the proper 3 3/16” dihedral from the flat surface. Use a mag-azine or other material to weight the one wing half flat againstthe workbench, making sure not to use something that will crushthe wing pannel. Check to make sure the dihedral is correct.Apply more masking tape to make sure the wing halves stayaligned and at the proper dihedral while the epoxy cures. Wipeaway any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.

Step 12. Allow the epoxy to cure completely before removingthe masking tape.

Note: If there are any gaps in the wing center section, theycan be filled with epoxy.

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Section 1: Joining the Wing CONTINUED

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Step 1. Locate the four wing dowel holes in the fuselage.

Step 2. Locate the two wood dowels and trial fit them into thefuselage.

Step 3. Position the dowels in the fuselage so an equal amount projects from each side of the fuselage (approximately 5/8”).

Step 4. Mix a small amount of 6-minute epoxy and apply it tothe dowels at a position inside the fuselage. By moving the dow-els back and forth slightly, the epoxy will be worked into theholes in the fuselage, thus bonding the dowels securely to thefuselage. Allow the epoxy to cure completely.

Step 5. Once the wing dowels are dry, trial fit the wing to thefuselage by inserting the leading edge of the wing flush againstthe former in front of the forward dowel and securing the wing tothe fuselage with two rubber bands. Position the trailing edge ofthe wing in its relative position on the fuselage. It’s helpful tomark the centerline of the fuselage on either side of the wingopening in the fuselage and line up the wing center in referenceto the marks you made.

Section 2: Mounting the Wing

• Complete wing assembly• Wing dowel rods (2)• Fuselage

• Hobby knife • Rubbing alcohol• 6-minute epoxy • Felt tip pen or pencil• Paper towels • 90 degree triangle• Masking tape • Measuring device ( )


36” ruler or tape measure

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Section 3: Installing the Tail

• Fuselage• Horizontal stabilizer with elevator• Vertical stabilizer with rudder

• Hobby knife • Rubbing alcohol• Ruler • Paper towels• Felt tipped pen • Epoxy brush• Masking tape • Mixing stick• Pencil • Sanding stick (medium)• 30-minute epoxy • 90-degree triangle

Step 1. On the rear of the fuselage, a slot is cut for the vertical stabilizer and a platform is provided for mounting thehorizontal stabilizer. You will need to also locate the pushrod exit for the rudder, which is on the top left of the slot for the vertical stabilizer. The covering may cover this opening. If so,use a sharp hobby knife to cut away the covering over the pushrod exit.

Step 2. We will mount the horizontal stabilizer first. Removethe elevator; it will be reattached when you hinge the control surfaces later. Note that the slot in the fuselage runs from the topof the fuselage back into the balsa platform that doesn’t have anycovering applied. Trial fit the horizontal stabilizer to the platformas shown, aligning the slot in the leading edge of the horizontalstabilizer to that in the fuselage top/platform as shown below.

Step 3. Holding the horizontal stabilizer in place, check to seethat the slots are aligned.

Step 4. With the fuselage, wing and horizontal stabilizer resting on a flat surface, align the horizontal stabilizer by measuring from fixed points on the wing to the outside of thetrailing edge tip of the horizontal stabilizer as shown in the illustration. Be sure that the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer stays aligned with the slot in the fuselage top.

Step 5. Use a felt tipped pen or pencil to mark the bottom ofthe horizontal stabilizer where it comes into contact with thesides of the fuselage. The mark will make a slight indentation inthe covering.


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Step 6. Remove the horizontal stabilizer and use a sharphobby knife to carefully cut away the covering approximately1/16” inside the line marked on the horizontal stabilizer so thatbare wood will show. Caution: Do not cut into the balsa wood,as this will weaken the structure.

Step 7. Use masking tape to temporarily attach the horizontalstabilizer to the fuselage, making sure it is aligned with the slotsin the fuselage and no bare wood shows on the bottom.Carefully slide the vertical stabilizer (with rudder still attached)into position in the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer. If the fit istight, use a sanding stick to remove some of the balsa, but becareful not to overdo it. Align the vertical stabilizer so the rudder(still attached) has a slight gap between it and the horizontal sta-bilizer, as shown below.

Step 8. When you’re satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to mark the junction of the vertical stabilizer and fuselagetop. The mark should leave a slight indentation in the covering.Remove the vertical stabilizer and horizontal stabilizer from thefuselage. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut away the covering 1/16”inside the mark you made. This allows the epoxy to adhere better to the vertical stabilizer and the fuselage/horizontal stabilizer. Remember not to cut into the balsa wood, as this willweaken the structure.

Step 9. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy andapply it to the area of the horizontal stabilizer that contacts thefuselage. Make sure the slot of the horizontal stabilizer alignswith the slot cut into the fuselage top and horizontal stabilizermount area of the fuselage. Check the bottom of the horizontalstabilizer to see that it is aligned to the fuselage and no barewood is showing.

CONTINUED

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Step 10. With the fuselage resting on a flat surface and thehorizontal stabilizer attached to the fuselage, adjust the stabilizeruntil you have an equal distance on both the right and left sidesof the stabilizer to the wing. When you are satisfied they areeven, tape the horizontal stabilizer securely in place and allowthe epoxy to cure. Check once more to make sure the slots ofthe horizontal stabilizer and fuselage are aligned. This is to makesure that when the vertical stabilizer/rudder is inserted, it will beproperly aligned to the centerline of the fuselage. Use rubbingalcohol and a paper towel to remove any excess epoxy.

Note: Use masking tape to hold in place until epoxy is cured.

Step 11. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxyand apply it to the bare wood areas of the vertical stabilizer.Carefully insert the vertical stabilizer into the slot provided in thefuselage/horizontal stabilizer. Wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Check the alignment so the rudder has just a slight gap between it and the horizontalstabilizer (see below). A 90-degree triangle can be used to checkthe alignment of the vertical stabilizer to the horizontal stabilizer.Use masking tape to hold it in position until the epoxy cures.

CONTINUED

Note: The control surfaces, elevator and rudder are pre-hinged with the hinges installed, but the hingesare not glued in place. It’s very important that youproperly adhere the hinges in place per the steps thatfollow using high-quality thin CA glue.

Step 1. Locate the horizontal stabilizer and elevator that youattached to the fuselage. The hinges are not glued in place, soyou will have to use thin CA glue to attach them permanently. Atypical hinge is shown below. Note that the construction allowsyou to determine the center of the hinge easily. There is also aslot that enhances the wicking action when CA is applied.

Step 2. Remove the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer.Check each hinge to make sure it’s centered, then re-install theelevator onto the horizontal stabilizer.

Step 3. With the elevator re-installed, check the alignment tomake sure it’s centered on the horizontal stabilizer. Deflect theelevator and completely saturate each hinge with thin CA glue.The elevator’s front surface should lightly contact the horizontalstabilizer during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges areglued in place, a 1/32” gap or less will be maintained throughoutthe length of the elevator. The hinges are constructed of a spe-cial material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and distrib-ute throughout each of the hinges, securely bonding them to thewood structure.

Step 4. Turn the fuselage over and deflect the elevator in theopposite direction and from the opposite side. Apply thin CAglue to each hinge, making sure the CA penetrates into both theelevator and horizontal stabilizer.

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Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator

• Fuselage• Horizontal stabilizer with elevator attached• Vertical stabilizer with rudder attached

• Thin CA glue • Drill• CA debonder • Drill bit: 1/16”• Paper towels • Medium Phillips• Felt tipped pen screwdriver

or pencil


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Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and ElevatorCONTINUED

Step 5. Use CA remover/debonder and a paper towel toremove excess CA from the elevator and horizontal stabilizer.

Step 6. After the elevator has been attached to the horizontalstabilizer, firmly grasp the fuselage and the elevator to check thatthe hinges are securely glued and cannot be pulled out. Do thisby applying medium pressure, trying to separate the elevatorfrom the horizontal stabilizer. Use caution that you do not crushthe structure.

Note: Work the elevator up and down several times to “workin” the hinges and check for proper movement.

Step 7. Repeat this process for hinging the rudder to the verti-cal stabilizer. Remember to flex the rudder back and forth severaltimes to “work in” the hinge.

Step 8. You will next attach the rudder and elevator controlhorns. Locate the nylon control horns (2), backplates (2) and thefour 8mm long control horn screws.

Step 9. Install the elevator control horn first. It will be locatedon the elevator, centered to the opening in the aft of the fuselage. Make sure it’s centered to the opening, as the elevatorclevis will move in and out of that opening. Also, make sure thecontrol horn holes for the pushrod wire are positioned over thehinge line of the elevator/horizontal stabilizer.

Step 10. When you’re satisfied with the location of the control horn, mark the position of the screw locations with a felttipped pen or pencil.

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Step 11. Remove the horn and using a 1/16” drill bit, drill theholes for the elevator control horn screws in the elevator.

Step 12. The rudder control horn will be centered 3/8” up fromthe bottom of the rudder, positioned so the pushrod wire holeson the horn line up over the hinge line of the rudder/vertical stabilizer. When you’re satisfied with the position, mark the screw hole locations on the rudder using a felt tippedpen or pencil.

Step 13. Remove the control horn and drill the screw holelocations with a 1/16” drill bit.

Step 14. Attach the elevator and rudder control horns usingthe four 8mm screws and a medium Phillips screwdriver. Usecare not to slip and damage the covering.

Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and ElevatorCONTINUED

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Note: Velcro tape can also be used for mounting the receiverand battery pack.

Step 1. Install the grommets and eyelets in the two servos perthe instructions included with the radio.

Step 2. Locate the two plywood servo rails in the fuselage.Note: The rails have not been glued in place yet. Move the railsto the approximate opening for your servos. Trial fit the two servos on the rails. Try to place each servo close to the sides ofthe fuselage, as shown below. Note: It’s a good idea to removethe two servo arms at this time to make it easier to fit the servosin place.

Note: Position the two servos so there is ample roombetween the servo horns. Remember you can makeadjustments to the servo rails to make it easier to fitthe servos in place. It is also important to orientate theservo output shaft as shown.

Step 3. Once you are satisfied with the servo’s location, use apencil or felt tipped pen to mark where the mounting holes of thetwo servos are located on the servo rails. Also mark the positionof the two servo rails. Remove the two servos and use thick CAto glue the servo rails in place.

Step 4. Drill the 8 mounting holes with a 1/16” drill bit. Screwthe servos in place using the 8 screws provided with the servos.

Step 5. Remove the servo horns from the servos. Only onearm of a servo horn will be used, the other three will be trimmedoff so the horn doesn’t bind with the side of the fuselage. Pleaserefer to the photo below before trimming the horn. The elevatorservo is on the left side as you look down from the front of thefuselage; the rudder servo is on the right side. Trim off theexcess arms using a sharp hobby knife.

Section 5: Installing The Radio

• 2 to 4-channel radio system with 2 standard servos and hardware (not included)

• Radio packing foam (not included)

• Thick CA glue • Small Phillips screwdriver• CA debonder • Hobby knife with #11 blade• Paper towel • Pencil or felt tipped pen• Drill • Velcro• Drill bit: 1/16”


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Section 5: Installing The Radio

Step 6. Attach the appropriate servo leads to the receiver.Install the receiver just in front of the servos. (Refer to photo below).

Step 7. The antenna lead will be run from the bottom of thefuselage area out to the opening in the fuselage tail.

Step 8. Use radio packing foam (available at your local hobbyshop) to hold the receiver and the battery in place in the fuse-lage. This also provides some shock support during landings.

Step 9. Before attaching the battery pack to the fuselage withservo tape, be sure to balance the aircraft first. Balance can beadjusted by moving the battery back and forth in the fuselagenose to achieve balance. Always try this first before adding anyweight to the aircraft. See Section 10, Balancing the Aspire, formore information

Step 10. A switch can be installed in the side of the fuselageunder the wing.

Step 11. With the servos hooked into the receiver and the battery connected, turn on your transmitter. The servos will center. Make sure the trims on your transmitter are centered.Turn off the receiver and then turn off your transmitter. The ser-vos are now in their electrical “center” position. The servo hornscan now be installed on the servos as shown below.

CONTINUED

19

Step 1. Locate the parts used to make up the control linkagesfor rudder and elevator. This includes two 6” pushrod wires, two12” pushrod wires, two wood pushrods, and four sections ofheat shrink tubing.

Step 2. If there is covering over the rudder pushrod exit, whichis located on the top of the fuselage near the leading edge of thevertical fin, carefully cut it away using a hobby knife.

Step 3. Using either a felt tipped pen or pencil, mark 1” fromeach end of the wood pushrods as shown below.

Step 4. Drill a 1/16” hole through the wood pushrods at eachmarked end.

Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages

• Fuselage• 6” pushrod wire, no threads (2)• 12” pushrod wire, threaded on one end (2)• Wood pushrod (2)• Heat shrink tubing (4)• Clevis (2)• Clevis lock (used to keep clevis closed) (2) • Nylon wire keepers (2)

• Felt tipped pen or pencil • Ruler• 6-minute epoxy • Drill• Paper towels • Drill bit: 1/16”• Hobby knife • Rubbing alcohol• Heat gun• Masking tape• Pliers (standard

or needle nose)


20


Step 5. To determine the approximate length of a pushrod,temporarily tape (using masking tape) one of the 12” pushrodwires to one end of a wood pushrod, half the distance of the wire(unthreaded end), onto the wood pushrod. Thread a clevisapproximately 10 turns onto the threaded end of the rod. Repeatthis process with one of the 6” unthreaded rods, however it willnot have a clevis attached. Make sure the metal rods are clear ofthe tape near the holes drilled in Step 4.

Step 6. Position the temporarily assembled pushrod along the outside of the fuselage, lining it up with the control horn onthe rudder and the servo arm of the rudder servo. Do the samewith the elevator pushrod. Remember the elevator pushrod willbe inserted through the fuselage and exit out the opening at the aft end.

Step 7. If necessary, adjust the rods on the wooden pushrod to allow for a 90-degree bend to be made in the non-threadedportion of each rod that will be attached to a wooden pushrod.

Step 8. Mark the rods where the bends will be made in refer-ence to the marks made on the wooden pushrod (the 1” markyou made in Step 3).

Step 9. Disassemble the pushrod and remove the clevis and tape.

Step 10. Use a needle nose pliers or standard pliers to make a 90-degree bend at the mark you made on each rod. Trim offany excess rod after the bend so it is 1/8” to 3/16” long. The shortportion of the rod that you cut will fit into the holes of the wooden pushrod without the end extending out of the hole onthe other side. Repeat the process for the 6” unthreaded rod.Make up the second pushrod following the same procedure.

CONTINUED

Step 11. Trial fit the 12” long threaded rod to the woodenpushrod. When you’re satisfied with the fit, apply 6-minuteepoxy to the hole and where the wire meets the wooden pushrodand insert the rod.

Step 12. Before the epoxy is cured, slide a piece of heat shrinktubing over the wooden pushrod and threaded 12” rod. Use aheat gun to shrink the tubing in place.

Step 13. Repeat the process to attach the 6” unthreaded rod tothe wooden pushrod.

Step 14. Repeat the above process to make up the rudderpushrod. Allow the epoxy to cure completely before continuingto the next step.

Step 15. Insert the rudder pushrod assembly (without the clevis) into the fuselage so the threaded 12” end exits the rudderpushrod hole near the vertical stabilizer.

Step 16. Place one clevis lock (the small piece of tubing usedto lock the clevis closed) on the threaded end of the rod andthen screw on a clevis 10 complete turns. Fasten the clevis tothe rudder control horn in the second hole from the top (or baseof control horn).

Note: Use the small piece of tubing over the clevis as extrainsurance to prevent the clevis from accidentally coming open.

21

Section 6: Installing the Control LinkagesCONTINUED

22


Step 17. Center the rudder servo, making sure the servo armis 90-degrees to the control rod when it’s attached. Use a felttipped pen and place a mark on the unthreaded end of the 6” rodwhere it passes over the servo control arm.

Step 18. Using needle-nose or standard pliers, make a 90-degree bend at the marked location on the rod (Note: You bendthe wire up). You bend the wire up because the wire will beinserted into the bottom of the servo arm so the wire keeper canbe inserted over the end of the wire (see Step 20 photo). Cut offthe excess rod (leave about 3/16” of rod to insert into servo armand also engage wire keeper).

Step 19. Insert the bend into the servo arm’s innermost hole.Use the nylon wire keeper to hold the rod in place on the servoarm. Be sure it snaps in place.

Step 20. Insert the elevator pushrod into the fuselage threadedend first. The rod will exit the opening at the rear of the fuselage.Place a clevis lock (small round piece of tubing) onto the rod.Screw on the clevis at least 10 turns. Connect the clevis to theelevator control horn on the second hole from the bottom (usebase of control horn as a reference). Use the clevis lock to pre-vent accidental opening of the clevis.

Step 21. You will build the elevator pushrod using the samemethod as you used to build the rudder pushrod. Center the elevator servo, making sure the servo arm is 90-degrees to thecontrol rod. Use a felt tipped pen to place a mark on the pushrodwire where it passes the elevator servo arm (innermost hole onthe servo arm).

Step 22. Use a needle-nose or standard pliers to make a 90-degree bend at the marked location on the rod. Remember to bend the rod “up.” Cut off the excess rod leaving about 3/16”remaining to engage the servo arm and wire keeper.

Step 23. Insert the bend into the servo arm’s innermost hole.Use the nylon wire keeper to hold the rod in place on the servoarm. Make sure it clicks into place.

CONTINUED

23

The control throws listed below are a good place to start. Afteryou’re become more comfortable with the flight performance ofthe Aspire, you can adjust the control throws to meet your styleof flying.

Elevator: 3/8” UP: 3/8” Down

Rudder: 3/8” Right: 3/8” Left

Note: The control throw is measured at the point of the con-trol surface farthest from the hinge line. You canchange the control linkage attachment points in or outon the control horns to change the amount of throwon each surface.

Section 7: Control Throw Recommendations

24

Section 8: Installing the Tow Hook

• Fuselage • 4-40x12mm bolts • 4-40 blind nuts • Washers• Tow hook

• Phillips screwdriver• Hobby knife

Step 1. Locate the bag containing the tow hook and hardware.The tow hook will be mounted on the fuselage bottom with threescrews, three washers and three blind nuts.

Step 2. On the bottom of the fuselage, locate the three holeswhere the tow hook will be mounted. If the covering has notbeen removed from the holes, use a sharp hobby knife to cut the covering from the holes.

Step 3. Mount the tow hook to the fuselage using the hardwareprovided. Note: The “hook” opening faces the rear of the fuselage. Insert a washer on one of the bolts, thread the bolt intoone of the slots on the tow hook. Insert a blind nut inside thefuselage and tighten the bolt to the blind nut. For the time being,mount the tow hook so the bolts are centered in the slots.

Step 4. Tighten the bolts sufficiently, but be carefully not tocrush the wood inside the fuselage.

Step 5. In general, a forward hook location will provide for thesafest and most stable launch and should be used during thefirst test flights. Later a more rearward location will providegreater launch altitude, however this can cause veering tendencies during launch.


25

Section 9: Installing The Canopy

• Fuselage• Canopy• Small rubber band (1)• Plywood canopy braces (2)

• 6-minute epoxy • Medium sandpaper• Epoxy brush • Scissors• Rubbing alcohol • Pencil• Paper towels • Masking tape


Step 1. Locate the plywood canopy pieces and the canopy

Step 2. Look at the canopy and note the scribe markings on it.This is your guide to cutting out the canopy. Carefully cut outthe canopy using sharp scissors. Be sure to cut along the out-side of the scribe markings as carefully as possible.

Step 3. Trial fit the canopy on the front of the fuselage. Thesides of the canopy should extend onto the fuselage sides andcover the opening. There are two pieces of plywood that must beepoxied to the canopy. The larger piece holds the canopy on thefuselage using the small rubber band provided.

Step 4. The forward plywood brace is located 1/2 “ from thesmall end of the canopy.

Step 5. The larger plywood brace, used to attach the rubberband, is located 6 1/2” from the front end (small end) of thecanopy and up 1/4” on either side of the canopy.

26

Section 9: Installing The Canopy

Step 6. Mark the location of each piece using a pencil. Usesome sandpaper (medium or fine) to roughen up the inner sur-face of the canopy where you marked the location of the plywoodsupports. This will help the epoxy to adhere to the canopy mate-rial. Mix up 1 oz of 6-minute epoxy and install each brace. Usemasking tape to hold it in position until the epoxy cures.

Step 7. After the epoxy has cured completely, you can loop the small rubber band around the plywood tab on the canopyand the former in the fuselage. This will securely hold thecanopy in place.

CONTINUED

27

Section 10: Balancing the Aspire

• Assembled Aspire kit • Masking tape• Pencil or felt tipped pen• Lead “stick-on” weights (optional)

Step 1. Balancing your Aspire glider is an important step that must not be forgotten. The Center of Gravity (CG) of yourAspire glider should be 3 1/2 – 3 3/4” behind the leading edge ofthe wing. You will likely need to shift the receiver battery fullyforward to balance the model and add weight to the nose. Tryshifting the position of the battery location in an attempt to balance the model, or add weight to the fuselage nose/tail asapplicable.

Step 2. To properly balance the model, it should be fullyassembled with the radio and receiver battery installed and readyto fly. Place a strip of masking tape on either side of the wing’slower surface, next to the fuselage.

Step 3. Mark the location of the CG on the bottom of the wingon either side of the fuselage.

Step 4. Using one finger under the wing on each mark, checkthe balance of the model. It should remain level when raised atthe balanced points. Shift the battery location or add weight untilthe plane remains level.


28

Section 11: Thermal SoaringA key component to soaring is the air mass the glider flies in.Also, there is an energy source producing lift, either a warm airthermal (thermal lift) or the wind rising as it meets an obstaclesuch as a hill or a line of mountains (ridge lift). We will limit ourdiscussion to describing thermal soaring.

We use a Hi-Start to launch our sailplane to altitude. After thelaunch, the sailplane will eventually return to earth as there isnothing to oppose gravity (sailplane has no motor). How, then,does the sailplane stay aloft for long periods of time and travellong distances? Some force has to provide sufficient lift to over-come gravity.

One such force is the thermal. The thermal is simply a column of rising warm air. Warm air is lighter (less dense) than coolerair and thus rises. The term “differential heating” is used todescribe the generation of thermals.

The principle of warm versus cool air is used by balloonists tolaunch and fly their hot air balloons. They create and trap warmair inside the balloon envelope, and the warm air displaces thecool air, causing the balloon to inflate and rise until air beginsto cool inside the envelope. The balloonist simply uses apropane heater to warm the air again and the balloon rises againor maintains its altitude.

Nature generates thermals by the sun heating darker ground orobjects more that lighter colored surfaces. The dark objectabsorbs the sun’s heat, becoming warm and thus warming theair above it.

For a thermal to be formed the sun (or a heat source, such as ahot metal roof, factory, etc.,) heats the ground or surrounding airin one location faster or warmer than the surrounding air. Thewarm ground warms the air above it and causes the air to beginto rise. Rising warm air can take on the form of a column or afunnel. Usually the part of the thermal near the ground is smalland expands outward as it rises in altitude.

Since the warming of air is usually a much smaller area than thetotal area, the thermal updraft will be faster than the coolerdowndraft motion of air. This cooler downdraft of air is referredto as “sink” and causes glider flights to be of a much shorterduration as the lift generated by the wing is overcome by thedownward motion of the air.

To stay aloft one’s task is to move from one thermal to another,utilizing the lift created by rising warm air. In level flight, a glidercontinuously descends in relation to the surrounding air. Theonly way to sustain flight in a glider beyond the sink time in stillair (without a motor) is to fly in an air mass that is rising at arate greater than the sink rate of the glider.

Thermals usually cannot be seen (an exception is a “dust devil,”a small thermal that has picked up dust, making it visible). One can sometimes “feel” the presence of a thermal. A breath of air in an otherwise calm spot indicates the presence of a

thermal. A shift in the wind (in a light breeze) probably indicatesairflow into a thermal. And one can watch for the graceful soaring of birds, such as hawks and eagles to locate the presence of thermals.

Sometimes the wind will cause the thermal to bend or breakcausing a warm air bubble that slowly travels downwind as itrises. Thermals can vary in strength, rising at speeds of a fewhundred to over a thousand feet per minute.

Thermal Forms (Column)

Thermal Forms (Bubble)

29

As you are flying your Aspire, watch it carefully. If you were in a full size glider you would be able to feel the “bump” ofentering a thermal; now you must depend on signs the glidergives as it approaches or enters a thermal.

When the Aspire flies near a thermal that is rising, the wings andtail will rock and try to rise, causing the aircraft to “twitch”slightly. Sometimes the nearness of a thermal will cause theglider to “turn away” without any control input from the pilot.

There are several ways of entering a thermal. One is to continuethe thermal induced turn for 270 degrees. If the thermal is onyour left, turn right for 270 degrees and enter at a right angle tothe original flight path.

270° Turn Into a Thermal

The second method is to make a wide 180-degree turn back intothe thermal.

180° Turn Into a Thermal

Once in the thermal you will need to try to stay in the center ofthe lift. Slow down by increasing the up elevator “trim” until thesailplane is just above a stall (minimum sink speed). Make easybanking turns to find the area of highest lift (thermal core).When you have found the core of lift, tighten the turns to staywithin the core of highest lift.

Flying in the Core of a Thermal

As you gain experience, you will find it easier to locate thermalsand track their progress.

Section 11: Thermal SoaringCONTINUED

Thermal

Step 1. Check that all control functions move in the correctdirection. If not, use the respective reversing switch to correctthe direction.

Note: Mode II transmitter shown in diagrams

Step 2. Check that each clevis is securely snapped into posi-tion. Be sure to use the clevis locking devices (small pieces oftubing slipped over the clevis to hold the clevis closed and pre-vent accidental opening in flight).

Step 3. Check that all servo horn screws are tight.

Step 4. Charge the transmitter and receiver batteries per theinstructions included with the radio system.

Step 5. Range check your radio system per the manufacturer’sinstructions.

30

Section 12: Pre-Flight Checks

Rudder

Rudder

Elevator

Elevator

31

We strongly recommend that before you launch your new gliderusing the Hi-Start, or off a slope, you first perform a “test glide.”Pick a spot that is flat, has soft, tall grass, and is free fromobstructions. You want to first check out the glider’s perfor-mance, but also check our your performance as a pilot.

Hint: A good, calm period during the day is very early in themorning or at dusk, when the wind is calm. You want to be ableto concentrate on what the model is doing and have time to thinkabout what you’re doing. We will assume you have an assistantduring the following steps. If you are a newcomer to R/C flying,it’s best that you have an experienced pilot help you.

Step 1. Range check your radio system and check the controlthrows. Make sure the control surfaces move in the properdirection.

Step 2. Have the assistant hold the glider under the wing nearthe CG and run forward until they can sense the wing developinglift. Don’t release the glider yet. Look to see if the glider wants tolift, if not, add a bit of up elevator trim, and try again. Repeat thisprocess until the assistant reports the glider feels light as theyrun forward.

Step 3. This step may take some practice on the part of yourassistant. What you want them to do now is run forward, but abit faster, with the nose of the glider pointed at the horizon, notnose down or nose up...with the wings level...then throw theglider forward in a line straight toward the horizon.

Step 4. When the assistant releases the glider, watch it carefully.A properly trimmed glider will fly straight forward, gliding to asmooth landing. If the glider pitches nose down, add up trim. Ifthe glider pitches nose up sharply and stalls, add down trim.

Step 5. Turns to the left or right after launch can be adjustedthrough use of right or left rudder trim. Important: Make anytrim adjustments in small increments.

Step 6. If you have to make large trim adjustments on yourtransmitter, you may have other problems. Make sure the wingis aligned and mounted properly on the fuselage.

When you have the glider trimmed properly in a “hands-off”manner, return you transmitter trim switches to their neutralposition, then make the appropriate mechanical linkage correc-tions to return the control surfaces to their test glide positions.

Step 7. After you have made the necessary corrections, testglide the model again to make sure it’s trimmed properly withthe transmitter trims in neutral.

Step 8. You are now ready to try the Hi-Start launch.

Section 13: Test Glide

32

Hangar 9 offers a Sailplane Launching System (SLS) called theHangar 9 G-Force. For your convenience, the SLS is completelyassembled. The components that make up this product are of thehighest quality and reliability. Used properly, this unit will offeryou many seasons of successful launches. Please read the fol-lowing instructions to maximize the performance and life of yourSailplane Launching System.

Launch AreaYour local AMA sanctioned flying field is the best location forflying. However, if you do not have access to such a field, manyother open areas will work. Refer to Table 1 below for the minimum launch area required for your particular SLS. To avoidpossible damage to your SLS and sailplane, be sure to choosean area that is clear from brush, trees and other obstacles.

Preparation for Launch Depending upon the layout of your flying field, you will need tolocate the furthest point upwind as possible. As you determineyour anchoring point, keep in mind that your SLS will unwind toeither 200 or 400 feet and will stretch an additional 150 or 300feet, depending on which version you have purchased. Onceyou’ve found a suitable anchoring location, find an area ofground that’s reasonably firm. Place the metal ring that’sattached to the rubber tubing around the 9” steel stake. At a 45degree angle away from the launch area, drive the stake into theground. (Refer to diagram below.)

Pull hard on the tubing at the base of the stake to be certain it’ssecure. Once the stake is secure, unwind the rest of the tubingand nylon line downwind toward the launch area. The hand reelwill conveniently lay out the SLS without any tangles or knots.

Now that the SLS in completely unwound, you’re ready to launch your sailplane. Refer to Table 2 below for proper stretchdistances for your particular SLS and sailplane class.

Once you’ve determined the proper stretch length for your SLS,walk the distance with the hand reel and sailplane. At the givenpoint of launch, leave the hand reel as a marker. Its brightorange color makes it easy to locate and also makes it unneces-sary to recount the stretch length for each launch.

Note: When stretching out your SLS, stretch it out by hand,not while still attached to the sailplane tow hook.

Now that you have stretched the SLS to its appropriate length,place the ring attached to the parachute over the tow hook. Witha firm grasp on the sailplane, angle the nose up at a 45 degreeangle into the wind. Making sure that the transmitter and receiv-er battery are “on,” toss the sailplane into the wind. The SLS willhave enough power to pull it right out of your hand! During thelaunch it may be necessary to track the sailplane straight usingthe rudder. For your first launches elevator input should not benecessary and is not recommended. Giving too much up eleva-tor input can result in oscillations in the sailplane, which canoverstrain the wings.

Section 14: Hangar 9 G-Force

45˚

WIND

SLS Model Sailplane Class Minimum Launch AreaSLS 200 2-METER 72 in 350 ftSLS 400 2-METER 72 in 700 ftSLS 200 UNLIMITED 99 in, + 350 ftSLS 400 UNLIMITED 99 in, + 700 ftNote: Tubing can be stretched a maximum of 300% of its original length.

G-FORCE Maximum Stretch LengthSLS 200 2-METER 150 ft. or 50 pacesSLS 400 2-METER 300 ft. or 100 pacesSLS 200 UNLIMITED 150 ft. or 50 pacesSLS 400 UNLIMITED 300 ft. or 100 paces

Table 2

Table 1

Sailplane Launch System

TM

33

Note: If you have any problems, giving full down elevatorwill release the sailplane. Once it reaches its maximum launch altitude the sailplane may release by itself. If not, a quick tap of down elevator willrelease it.

These stretch lengths are based on normal wind conditions ofabout 5 mph. It may be necessary to increase or decrease thestretch length depending upon the amount of wind. For example,if the wind is blowing 10–15 mph, it will be necessary toreduce the stretch length slightly. Plan accordingly.

Tow Hook LocationsIf your sailplane does not show a location for a tow hook, plac-ing the hook 1/2” ahead of the center of gravity is a good start.In general, a forward hook location will provide for the safestand most stable launch. For more experienced pilots a rearwardlocation will provide greater launch altitude, however this cancause veering tendencies.

Maintenance and StorageExtreme prolonged heat is the rubber tubing’s worst enemy.Store the SLS in a cool, dry place. Avoid leaving your SLS inthe trunk of the car. During regular use of the SLS in a flyingseason you should lightly dust the tubing with talcum or babypower. This will help the tubing during friction on the ground,thus increasing its overall life.

Warnings• Make sure the stake is securely anchored. Check throughout

the day to make sure it has not loosened.• Do not over-stretch the tubing. Doing so will permanently

damage it to the point of losing its elasticity. As a generalrule, the tubing can be stretched to 300% of its originallength.

• Make periodic checks of all knots. If the tubing or nylon linebecomes frayed, cut that amount off and retie using the knotsshown in the diagram below.

• During the launch make sure there is no one between you andthe SLS stake.

• Do not put the tow hook behind the C.G. of your sailplane.Doing so will result in a very control sensitive launch, whichcould cause a crash.

• Do not use the Unlimited SLS on 2-meter sailplanes. Doingso could over-stress the wing and could cause it to fold.

Section 14: Hangar 9 G-ForceCONTINUED

34

Once the fundamentals of launch, trim and control of the gliderare learned, it’s time to consider getting the most out of the glid-er’s ability to perform. To do that, one must learn how to trim theglider for maximum performance, whatever the current condi-tions are at the time.

The key to trimming the glider for maximum performance is tobecome knowledgeable of three key speeds. They are: (1) Minimum Sink Speed, (2) Maximum Lift/Drag (L/D) Speed,and (3) Best Penetration Speed.

These three speeds are what we call airspeeds, not groundspeeds (the glider’s speed across the ground). Thus, the air-speed of the glider is relative to the air mass surrounding it.

To determine the glider’s airspeed, you will have to watch care-fully for its pitch attitude. Pitch attitude can best be described asthe amount (degree) the nose of the glider is above or below aline relative to the horizon.

Pitch Attitude

Minimum Sink SpeedMinimum sink speed is the speed at which a sailplane loses altitude most slowly. As the term then implies, minimum sinkspeed gives the glider the maximum amount of time aloft from agiven altitude. This is the speed to fly at when you are circling inthermals, or whenever you need the maximum lift the glider canproduce. The pitch attitude will appear to be more nose up.

To determine what this speed is for your glider, you will need tofly at a slow speed, slowing down until the glider just stalls, thentrim it to fly at a speed just above where it begins to stall.Observe the pitch attitude at this speed. You will need to practiceflying at this speed without stalling so you can come back to itwhenever you want to when you’re in a thermal or are trying tomaintain maximum lift.

Maximum Lift/Drag (L/D) SpeedThis is the speed at which you can fly the maximum distance fora given altitude. It’s used when you move from one thermal toanother, or when you need to cover the maximum distance overground. This will be a moderately faster airspeed than the mini-mum sink speed. You will have to experiment by starting fromthe minimum sink speed and add small amounts of down trim toincrease speed slightly. This is the speed the glider covers themost ground, and the speed at which you will do most of yourflying. It will take practice until you’re familiar with the glider’s attitude at this speed. Remember, you will be flyingslightly faster at a lower pitch attitude as compared to minimumsink speed.

Best Penetration SpeedThis is the speed at which the glider will travel forward againstthe wind, as far and as quickly as possible. This speed will varywith the conditions, such as windy situations. You will want touse this speed to escape from sink or to get back up-wind. Thisspeed has a more pronounced nose down appearance, whichwill vary with the conditions encountered. It will also not be aconsistent attitude, but vary with the strength of the wind.

Once you’ve learned to launch and control your glider in a consistent manner, you will want to then proceed with practicingthese three speeds. Remember these are trim speeds, so you’llbe using your trim lever to obtain them.

The more you learn how to trim your Aspire for optimum performance, the more fun you can have chasing thermals!

Section 15: In-Flight Adjustments for Performance and Conditions

Nose

Horizon

PitchAttitude

LongitudinalAxis

Line Relative to Horizon Center of

gravity

35

Aerodynamics: Science of air in motion.

Angle of Attack (AOA): The angle between the chord of thewing and the relative wind that strikes the airfoil. The Angle ofAttack is independent of the attitude of the sailplane with respectto the horizon.

Axis: A line passing through a body about which the bodyrevolves.

Center of Gravity (CG): Balancing point of an aircraft.

L/D: Lift divided by drag expressed as a ratio. Essentially thesame as a glide ratio. Think of L/D as a glide slope, then, for agiven amount of distance the sailplane moves forward, it drops acertain amount.

Minimum Sink: The speed at which a sailplane loses altitudemost slowly. Usually expressed in feet per minute.

Penetrate: To make progress against the wind.

Pitch: Degree of nose up or nose down from level to the hori-zon.

Relative Wind: Direction that the air molecules strike the lead-ing edge of the wing.

Span: The maximum distance from wingtip to wingtip.

Stall: Loss of lift resulting from exceeding the critical angle ofattack.

Thermal: Rising body of hot air that can take a sailplane to agreat height.

Definitions

36

AMA SAFETY CODE

1999 OFFICIAL AMA NATIONAL MODEL AIRCRAFTSAFETY CODE

Effective January 1999

Model flying MUST be in accordance with this code inorder for AMA Liability Protection to apply.

GENERAL1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or

model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthyby having been previously, successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will giveright-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying toavoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site Iuse, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a care-less, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

4. At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established infront of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators.Only personnel involved with flying the aircraft are allowed in front ofthe flight line. Flying over the spectator side of the lines is prohibited,unless beyond the control of the pilot(s). In any case, the maximumpermissible takeoff weight of the models is 55 pounds.

5. At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single straight linemust be established, one side of which is for flying, with the otherside for spectators. Only those persons accredited by the contestdirector or other appropriate official as necessary for flight operationsor as having duties or functions relating to the conduct of the show ordemonstration are to be permitted on the flying side of the line. Theonly exceptions which may be permitted to the single straight linerequirements, under special circumstances involving consideration ofsite conditions and model size, weight, speed, and power, must bejointly approved by the AMA President and the Executive Director.

6. Under all circumstances, if my model weighs over 20 pounds, I willfly it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this section of the AMA SafetyCode.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name andaddress or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does notapply to models flown indoors.

8. I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or withgaseous boosts, in which gases other than air enter their internalcombustion engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely haz-ardous fuels such as those containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes,burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) including, but not limitedto, rockets, explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke bombs, allexplosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled balloons), ground mounteddevices launching a projectile. The only exceptions permitted arerockets flown in accordance with the National Model rocketry SafetyCode or those permanently attached (as per JATO use); also thoseitems authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST Advisorycommittee (document available from AMA HQ). In any case, modelsusing rocked motors as a primary means of propulsion are limited toa maximum weight of 3.3 pounds and a G series motor. Note: Amodel aircraft is defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not ableto carry a human being.

10. I will not operate any turbo jet engine (axial or centrifugal flow) unlessI have obtained a special waiver for such specific operations from theAMA President and Executive Director and I will abide by any restric-tion(s) imposed for such operation by them. (Note: This does notapply to ducted fan models using piston engines or electric motors.)

11. I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor during, participa-tion in any model operations.

RADIO CONTROL1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground range

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until Ibecome a qualified flyer, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or specta-tor areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas,unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currentlyallowed by the Federal Communications Commission. (Only properlylicensed Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on AmateurBand frequencies.)

5. I will not knowingly operate an R/C system within 3 miles of a pre-existing model club-flying site without a frequency sharing agreementwith that club.

6. I will not fly my model aircraft in any racing competition, which allowsmodels over 20 pounds unless that competition event is AMA sanc-tioned. (For the purpose of this paragraph, competition is defined asany situation where a winner is determined.)

7. Every organized racing event requires that all officials, callers, andcontestants must properly wear helmets, which are OSHA, DOT, ANSI,SNELL, NOCSAE or comparable standard while on the racecourse. Inaddition, all officials occupying safety cages must wear protectiveeyewear.

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HAN Aspire manual - Horizon HobbyIf you have any questions concerning the construction of the...

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