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Guide to Vientiane

Vientiane

The Lao capital of Vientiane sits on the northern bankof the Mekong River facing across to the even sleepierThai town of Sri Chiang Mai. For many visitors,Vientiane provides the first taste of Lao food, cultureand hospitality, and it does not disappoint on any count.

Actually pronounced Wiang Jan and translated as Cityof Sandalwood, the modern name of Vientiane comescourtesy of a bastardised French transliteration. Wiangactually means "fort" (City of Sandalwood sounds betterthan Fort... ) but by all accounts it mustn't have beenmuch of a stronghold, as the original city was overrunon a number of occasions by the Burmese and Chinese,and absolutely flattened by the Siamese (Thais) in 1828,after which the city was abandoned and left to thejungle.

This is one reason why many of the wats in the city areof a relatively young age, and if the road layout strikesyou as an inspired affair, thank the French for it -- theylaid the whole place out when they oversaw therebuilding of the city from the turn of the 19th to 20thcenturies.

Like many French colonial cities, Vientiane ischaracterised by broad, often leafy boulevards andrundown, creaking colonial mansions. Dotted with rusticwats surrounded by coconut palms and a generallysedentary pace of life as well and the allure of the place

can be well understood.

Indeed it's only since the early 1990s that the city hasreally started to develop. While it's a shame that the firstwaves of (largely Thai) investors that hit landlockedLaos brought with them the concrete egg-carton stylearchitecture that litters so much of Thailand, at least theriverfront, with its sleepy wats and broken pavements,didn't bear the brunt of it.

Nevertheless, slowly, the Mekong riverfront istransforming from what was once just a simple grassbank into a promenade of sorts -- the embankmentbetween the hospitals and the Lane Xang Hotel nowhosts a lovely garden and walkway. Elsewhere, thearea is largely unspoilt and offers some stunningscenery. The sunsets here are simply sublime.

For a capital, Vientiane isn't exactly overloaded withmuseums and sights, but in a way that's part of theattraction. Slow down to Lao speed -- hire a bicycle;see one or two things a day; spend a lot of timesnacking and quenching your thirst by the river. You'llgrow to appreciate the attraction of the place.

While you'd expect the flow of the Mekong to attractguesthouses and hotels by the truckload, the roadalong here, Fa Ngum, has just a handful of places tostay. Plenty of other choices line the roads leading off itbut few really take advantage of the views.

The good news is that Vientiane is probably one of thesmallest capital cities in the world, so getting around isquick and easy. No matter where you stay, you're nevertoo far away from anywhere, including the riverfront.The further out of the centre you stay, the quieter it gets,but this is where you can find some of the bestguesthouses.

Vientiane also boasts a great selection of Lao andWestern restaurants and cafes, and an eclectic mix ofsights and attractions which can be combined well for acomfortable two- to three-day stay. Whatever you do,don't miss a riverside sunset here.

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Guide to Vientiane

OrientationBanking The main concentration of banks is on LaneXang Avenue leading up from the Mekong River. Mostwill change cash and travellers cheques. ATMs thatdisplay the Visa and MasterCard signs are usuallyreserved for Lao-issued cards. The BCEL does have aninternational ATM on Pangkham Rd where you canuse your ATM card from home or Visa or MasterCardcredit cards for cash advances. Keep in mind that withBCEL, the maximum withdrawal is 700,000 kip pertransaction plus a 20,000 kip fee for using the ATM. Abetter option is Joint Development Bank on SamsenthaiRd (close to Lao Plaza Hotel), where you can withdrawup to 1,000,000 kip with no fees, except those imposedby your own bank, of course. An attached exchangebooth makes for easy conversion. Just as handy andusually a lot quicker are the exchange booths aroundtown. The BCEL operates one on the corner ofPangkham and Fa Ngum Rds and there's another onHengboun Rd next to the Lao Hotel. The BCEL is openMon-Fri from 8:30 to19:00 and weekends from 08:30 to15:30. Though other destinations in Laos are becomingless reliant on the miserable US dollar, it still seems thepreferred form of currency in Vientiane and thoseattempting to pay in kip are penalised at someestablishments. To further confuse the situation, ATMsonly distribute kip -- which most banks at home willcharge a service fee for the conversion to -- and thenyou're nicked again when you change your kip todollars. Even with all the extra fees, the conversion isoften still a better bet than paying in kip. Post officeThe central post office is opposite the south side of theday market on Khou Viang Rd. Office hours areMonday to Friday 08:00 to 17:00, Saturday 08:00 to16:00 and Sunday 08:00 to 12:00. Immigration officeVisa on arrival is issued for 30 days for mostnationalities at the Friendship Bridge crossing and atWattay International Airport. Tourist visas can also beorganised beforehand through Lao diplomatic offices.Should you wish to extend a tourist visa you can do soat the immigration office in Vientiane on Hatsady Rd,just off Lane Xang Avenue, for US$2 per day. LeavingLaos with an expired visa will cost you $10 a day andyou can only extend visas here. Agents can be hired tocarry out the task from other provinces, but prices go upto about $3 or $4 per day for the service. If you want toextend a visa that you have already overstayed on, youare still required to pay the $10 per day fine to cover thedays you have already overstayed. Office hours areMon-Fri 08:00-12:00 and 13:00-16:00. T: (021) 212 520.Emergency For minor ailments stop at one of the manypharmacies, which are open daily and well stocked withmedicine, though be sure to check the expiry date. Forserious problems, consider the Mahosot Hospital, T:

(021) 214 023-4, or the International Clinic, T: (021)214 022. Both are by Mahosot Rd and are open 24hours. If you're concerned about a serious condition oryour insurance doesn't cover health care in Laos, headto either AEK Hospital (http://www.aekudon.com) inUdon Thani, T: (+66 42) 342 555, F:(+66 42) 341 033 orBangkok. Police In an emergency the police can becontacted on 191. There is also a tourist police officenext to the Tourist Information Centre on Lane XangAvenue, T: (021) 251 128. Vehicle rental Handpaintedsigns for motor bike rental call to pedestrians all alongthe city's footpaths. A dozen local shops lease oldermodel bikes for about 60,000 kip per day and newermodels for about 80,000 kip per day. For a more stylishride, try Jule's Classic Rental at Phimphone Market.You'll pay more ($20 per day) but have your pick ofsleek rides with a showroom shine and the peace ofmind that comes with the included third party insurance.Even if you don't decide to rent, the market is worth alook as they stock many hard-to-find items and adelicious variety of cheeses -- it's a perfect spot to pickup fixings for a picnic. When it comes to car rental,many guesthouses and travel agencies can makearrangements for you. For the most choices however,head to the well established Asia Vehicle Rental. AVRboasts the largest fleet of rental vehicles in town, whichallows them to accommodate almost any request, fromshort and long term car and truck rental to airportlimousine service and guided international excursions.Jule's Classic Rental : Phimphone Market,Setthathirath Rd, Vientiane. T: (020) 760 0813. AsiaVehicle Rental: 354-356 Samsenthai Rd, Vientiane. T:( 0 2 1 ) 2 1 7 4 9 3 , ( 0 2 1 ) 2 2 3 8 6 7 .http://[email protected] Books Vientiane is gettinga lot better than in terms of English-language books onoffer, but choices of titles are still quite limited. Kosilahave two shops, one at the bottom of NokeoKoummane and another just before the That Dam stupa.Both have a reasonable collection of secondhand titlesbut nothing too inspired. Monument Books on NokeoKoummane (next to the Vayakorn Guesthouse) has agood selection of Lao titles covering culture, history andcooking (all in English). They are also a good source formaps of Laos and neighbouring countries. A lot ofmagazines are also available but not too many Englishnovels. Vientiane Book Centre on Pangkham Road(just up from the BCEL exchange booth) has areasonable collection of secondhand titles as well ascards and postcards. A final shop is Book – Café whichbuys and sells titles and will trade two-for-one. Theyhave a great selection of books in many languages.Some guesthouses also offer book loans and theexchange service at the Full Moon Cafe on FrancoisNginn Road is the best in town. Book - Cafe: 053/2Heng Boun Rd, Vientiane. T: (020) 6893 741. Opendaily: 09:00-19:00. Kosila: Nokeo Koummane and That


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Guide to Vientiane

Dam stupa circle, Vientiane. T: (020) 2240 964 Open:Mon-Sat 09:00-19:00. Monument Books: NokeoKoummane, Vientiane. T: (021) 243 708. Open: Mon-Fri09:00-20:00, Sat & Sun 09:00-18:00. Vientiane BookCentre: 54/1 Pangkham Rd, Vientiane. T: (021) 212031. Open: Mon-Fri 08:30-17:30, Sat 09:00-16:00,closed Sun. Internet and telecommunicationsInternet cafes are all over the city and some of theguesthouses are also getting in on the act, offering oneor two terminals in their reception areas. Speed andreliability are usually excellent and prices are between100 and 200 kip per minute. If you're travelling with alaptop, WiFi services are available at Joma cafe onSetthatilath Rd for 25,000 kip per hour, or for free withpurchase at Vista Wi-Fi Cafe on Francois Nginn Rd.Tourist information Aside from Travelfish, the bestway to get the most out of Vientiane is to pick up a goodmap. The Lao National Tourism Administration seemto be getting their act together at last and now have afairly reasonable display in their offices on Lane XangAve after the day market. They can provide a free guideto Laos (in English and French), which isn't as bad asyou might expect (in fact it's very amusing in places). Itactually contains some reasonable maps, someexcellent background information on Laos, its culture,ethnic minorities and various festivals, as well as lists ofaccommodation, restaurants, bars, embassies andthings to see in Vientiane. They will also sell you a 3Dmap, but it's a bit heavy on the advertising and thereare better choices in the bookshops. There is a dailyEnglish-language newspaper, the Vientiane Times, aswell as a weekly French publication, Le Renovateur.These are sold in almost every cafe and hotel as wellas some of the better guesthouses. The VientianeTimes also publishes timetables for government busestravelling from Vientiane to other destinations in Laos.Keep an eye out too for the noticeboards that can befound in many guesthouses and especially in some ofthe cafes. Everything from job vacancies to languagecourses are posted. Lao National Tourism

Information Centre: Lane Xang Ave, Vientiane. T: (021)250 681; F: (021) 212 769. Open daily 08:30 to 12:00and 13:00 to 16:30. http://www.tourismlaos.gov.laWhen to go Set at the centre of the country, Vientianegets a very predictable wet and dry monsoon climate.The dry season commences between late October andearly November and runs through till the rains break theheat some time in May. Both April and May can beexcruciatingly hot, with the rain that finally comes awelcome relief. In the wet season, August andSeptember see the most rain, but it is rarely an all-daytorrential affair; instead you can expect short, heavydownpours spread throughout the day. The best timeto visit Vientiane is between November and February.This is after the end of the wet season, but beforethings begin to really heat up in March. Vientiane is atits busiest in December and January, but outside ofPimai Lao (Lao New Year), you should always be ableto find a room. Festivals Pimai Lao (Lao New Year)This three-day festival (in some places it can run for five)celebrates Lao New Year and is characterised by waterand powder throwing, baci ceremonies and Laohospitality at its best. It's a fun festival, particularly inLuang Prabang, but rooms fill up fast -- a reservation isa very good idea. Celebrated across the country April14-16. Rocket festival While not a scratch on themayhem you'll see in Thailand, this rain-making festivalin May or June (the date varies each year) is known forits large non-NASA-certified home-made rockets whichare, usually and hopefully, shot skywards. A must forany budding rocket engineer. Ok Phansa Held on thefull moon at the end of Buddhist Lent (October). Lookfor candle-lit processions, boat races and much revelry.Celebrated across the country. That Luang FestivalWhile this week-long November festival is celebratedacross Laos, the epicentre is That Luang in Vientiane.People in their thousands pay homage at wats, makemerit and give alms. Boat races, fireworks and generalrevelry continue the fun.


http://www.tourismlaos.gov.la

Guide to Vientiane

AccommodationVIENTIANE - NEAR THE RIVER

Despite the city being right on the river, few of the guesthouses and hotels are. Here are the inexpensiveguesthouses and hotels that are either right on the river or within a block of it.

INTHA HOTEL - 4/5Promising new budget hotel88 Ban Wat ChanT: (021) 262 090;Email: [email protected] a sunny yellow building not far from the riverfront, the new Intha Hotel is asolid choice on a flashpacking budget. The rooms are spacious and havequite comfortable beds, a TV with English channels, and clean en suitebathrooms with hot shower. Big windows let in lots of light and thewraparound balconies would be a great spot for watching city life below ifthey had any seating. Staff are clearly new to the hotel biz but make a goodeffort to communicate in English. Rates aren't the lowest around but doinclude a full breakfast at their popular sidewalk cafe and WiFi. Rooms canbe reserved via the popular online hostel sites, though you pay more this waythan by walking-in. Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

SOUPHAPHONE GUESTHOUSE - 4/5Clean and modernBan Wat ChanT: (021) 261 468; F: (021) 262094Email: [email protected]: http://www.souphaphone.netIn a lovely new building with wrought-iron balconies, Souphaphone offersmodern accommodation without breaking the bank. Don't judge the hotel byits plain lobby and hallways, as the rooms are quite attractive, if understated,with hardwood floors, bright white walls and big windows. Other than theoption of one double or two twin beds, rooms have identical facilities includinga phone, satellite TV, mini-fridge, and attached bathroom with a good hotshower. Thoughtful extras like free WiFI, daily room cleaning, and a basket ofassorted toiletries round out Souphaphone as a top choice for a flashpackerbudget. Our only complaint is that payment is cash only. Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

LAO SILK HOTEL - 4/5Chic newcomerFrancois Ngin RdT: (021) 213 976; F: (021) 222 619Email: [email protected]: http://www.laosilkhotel.comWe were drawn in by the sign outside this new hotel that said clean, soft bed,free WiFi, friendly, and must admit that they delivered on all accounts. Thebeds are soft as feathers (by Lao standards!) with brilliantly white duvets,rooms are fresh and bright, the staff are sweet and professional, and WiFiworks brilliantly ever on higher floors. All rooms have a flatscreen TV, phone,mini-fridge, a small desk and an attached bathroom with central hot water.Big windows open up onto small balconies and the view determines theroom's price. There’s no on-site restaurant but plenty of places to eat line thestreet. The hotel has CCTV security and took our credit card without anyextra fee. Take advantage of Lao Silk Hotel while it's still new! Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

Traveller reviews


Guide to Vientiane

Lost a little shine As is often the case with new buildings in Southeast Asia, despite being new the Lao Silk Hotel is already showing somesigns of wear: a bit of damp, marks on the one white walls and so on. That said, it's still clean, reasonably comfortable andwell located so certainly worth considering if you have a mid-range budget. I will say though that we opted for the cheapestroom ($25 online - we wanted to book in advance and were glad we did as it was full when we arrived) as we were juststaying a night so weren't bothered about a view. The room was really small - I mean, just space to move around the bed -and there was no balcony, just a window overlooking a wall and an air-con unit. As I say, I'm not bothered about no balconyor view but some might think the description ''rear view'' suggests the rooms are on a par with those at the front, just with adifferent view, and this isn't the case. I did manage to peek into a front room though and it didn't look much bigger. So insummary, a good place for flashpackers but not for a long stay as the rooms are too small.By travellingsarah on 1st December, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 11/2010

Enjoyable stay Place is definitely new and very comfortable. I didn't actually find the bed as soft it was billed to be, but the room wasdefinitely nice for the price. They have three tiers of prices -- $30 for ''river views'', $25 for ''city view'' and $20 for ''rear view''.I looked at one rear view room, but it was up 5 flights of stairs and decided to spring the extra $5 for a city view room on thesecond floor. Very clean, although the room did smell a bit musty. LCD flatscreen TV, lots of mirrors, wood furniture was anice touch. Western toilets, good water pressure, hot shower. Staff was friendly, though I found better prices for the servicesthey offer at local agencies. Recommended! By brr1980 on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 9/2010

RIVERINE HOTEL - 4/5Romance by the river048 Fa Ngum RdT: (021) 214 643; F: (021) 216 633From the outside Riverine looks like your average guesthouse/massage shop,but the rooms above are quite modern with some surprisingly Zen-like decor.All rooms are stylish and well-furnished with air-con, flatscreen TVs, attachedbathrooms, and big beds with reasonably soft mattresses. The cheapestrooms are on the ground floor without exterior windows, but the real gems arethe upstairs rooms that take full advantage of the prime river views. The VIProom is gorgeous with gleaming hardwoods, a four-poster bed, and bright silkaccents — a great splurge for some riverside romance. Rates include asimple breakfast served in the reception area cafe and WiFi access. A largesign outside the hotel advertises the current rates, though it doesn't hurt toask for a discount in low season. Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange )

Traveller reviewsGreat value for money Small but very cozy and nice room (deluxe double). Staff are pleasant. The breakfast is not really generous but allright. By Bent on 17th October, 2010, rated 5/5 after a stay here in 11/2008

RIVERSIDE HOTEL - 4/5Great balance of value and comfortNokeo Koummane RdT: (021) 244 390; F: (021) 244 391The Riverside has been around for a few years now and doesn't look as freshas it once did, but it remains a fine choice for a genuinely comfortable roomon a budget. All rooms are well furnished and have air-con, mini-fridge, bigTVs with a full range of satellite channels, and private bathrooms with hotwater. We're not crazy about the lime green colour palette, but rooms arevery clean and made-up daily. For an extra few dollars you can treat yourselfto one of their VIP Rooms with a king-size bed and large corner bathtub. Also,they've installed an elevator so rooms on the 4th and 5th floors are no longersuch a trek. Free WiFi is available in the lobby and they accept credit cards.Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

Traveller reviewsCute! The rooms are big, serviced daily and spotlessly clean. There was an attempt at a proper western shower, shower curtainand all, and a lift, which took this place to a whole new level! Also, cable TV, bar fridge, and free water were nice touches. It'sa nice side of town to stay on too, as very close to good restaurants and nightlife, and plenty of other places to stay around ifthis place is full.By roxyvh on 28th April, 2008, rated 5/5 after a stay here in /


Guide to Vientiane

Simple, clean and good value We ended up here after trying all over town, and were pleased with it. Pretty characterless, but clean, fairly modern, in a verygood location, and helpful staff. Recommended if you're staying for a few nights.By Emanef on 30th January, 2008, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 1/2007

Heavens above! Backpacker nirvana is now much easier to attain as a lift/elevator has been installed. Nice bathrooms, good hotel service.Well worth the $. I got the last vacant room yesterday so the word is obviously out. By fondo on 3rd September, 2007, rated 5/5 after a stay here in 9/2007

VIENG THONG GUESTHOUSE - 3.5/5Warm and welcomingBan Phiavat, No 8T: (021) 212 095;Adjacent to Wat Phiavat, this homey place has two buildings with adequateair-con rooms. Rooms in the older building have more character and cost $5less, while rooms in the newer addition are slightly larger and have betterbathrooms. Rooms have mismatched furniture with one double or two twinbeds, a desk and chair, mini-fridge and older-style TVs. A friendly family runsthe place and will quickly make you feel at home inviting guests to join themfor iced Beerlao. The restaurant wasn't open during our visit, but they'llhappily recommend restaurants for authentic and affordable Lao food.Despite its location away from the city centre Vieng Thong gets a steadystream of travellers.Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE MEKONG - 3.5/5Tranquil boutique hotelFa Ngum RdT: (021) 243 350; F: (021) 243 345Email: [email protected]: http://www.hbrm.comSet on a quieter stretch of Fa Ngum Rd, north of the main "riverside scene".Beau Rivage is a boutique hotel popular with couples and business travellers.The unique design embraces the natural beauty surrounding the hotel withfeatures like floor-to-ceiling windows that offer unobstructed river views andalso give the hotel an airy, open quality. The lay-out varies a bit between the16 rooms, but all are modernly furnished and tastefully decorated with Lao art.Note that some rooms have a glass shower stall in the bedroom — aromantic touch if you're a couple or quite awkward if you're not. Rates includeWiFi and breakfast, or you can enjoy your meals at the neighouring SpiritHouse Bar and Restaurant.Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange )

Traveller reviewsBooked stayed next door I was here last month and it was booked for the night. We walked about 100m further along the water to the Vansanariverside hotel. I cannot tell you enough how much my gf and I enjoyed staying here. We paid $45 and had all the amenities,including a pool and a driver. The manager Khampou is the best!By esedransk on 17th October, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 8/2009

Pretty, but Pricey This place is super popular and for good reason. The rooms a spacious and clean and each offers its own artsy vibe. Thehotel sits in a quite section of town and is about a 15min. walk from the night market. Bikes are available for rent. The SpiritHouse Resturant next door serves great food and drinks. There is a picnic area on the river front that is part of the resturantwere one can enjoy and drink and watch the sunset. Do not take use of the driver service the hotel offers however, as theyadd a $60 U.S. service fee to the price.By stephfinch81 on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 1/2010


Guide to Vientiane

YOUTH INN - 3.5/5Backpacker magnet on the waterfront029 Fa Ngum RdT: (021) 217 130;Email: [email protected] original Youth Inn location, this bright green guesthouse set right on theriverfront attracts a steady stream of backpackers. The rooms are spacious,comfortable and the price is right, but not all have a window and can feel a bitgloomy. All rooms have attached bathroom and towels, soap, and evendrinking water are provided. The adjacent Sabaidee Cafe is the unofficialhang-out of people staying here and has comfy seating, tasty coffee andsnacks, plus free WiFi for customers. A new Youth Inn is located a bit furtherdown Fa Ngum and, although prices are the same, it's got a fresher feel to it. Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsClean, but A/C doesn't work We are a couple and paid 100,000 kip for a basically windowless room with a private bathroom on the 4th floor (Rm. 407). Nocomplaints really. It's quite clean, they provide towels, toilet paper, soap, and even a bottle of water. The beds are decent.There is a hot water heater if you want it. But... The A/C didn't work. Well, it worked, in that it turned on and blew air around,but it wasn't cold air, even after it was on for almost two hours. We notified reception and they said they'd send someone up.A couple of hours later, nobody had come, so I asked for a different room. We went into room 304. Nice room but... guesswhat, no cold air from the A/C. Maybe other rooms actually work, as there were lots of travelers staying there, but we didn'thave any luck. We left after one night because of this problem. By WonderGarden on 17th October, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 2/2010

Basic but clean We stayed here for 3 nights in July. After looking at some of the other budget optons near by this one stood out as beingnicest and the cheapest. We payed 60,000 kip for a double with fan so can't comment on the A/C as mentioned in theprevious review. The room was clean and spacious if a little sparse - but you get what you pay for. Provided with clean towels,toilet paper and soap. Staff are friendly and helpful. Cafe downstairs does good sandwiches. By jones_bach on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 7/2010

By jones_bach on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 7/2010

MIXAY GUESTHOUSE - 3.5/5Top budget spot54 Nokeo Koummane RdT: (020) 244 7820; F: (021) 243 400Aimed firmly at backpackers, Mixay offers a wide variety of rooms at lowrates and a convivial atmosphere. The guesthouse has been recentlyrenovated and rooms have a fresh coat of paint, new mattresses, and cleanbathrooms with hot showers. Avoid the noisy rooms near reception or theones without a window, otherwise you should sleep well. Adding even morevalue for money, Mixay serves a free breakfast of eggs, toast, cereal, andinstant coffee every morning until 11:00. Mornings can be quite chaotic whenold guests are leaving and new ones are arriving, and all rooms are usuallytaken by late afternoon.Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsDecent but chaotic My husband and I stayed at Mixay Guesthouse in a double room - it was clean and the bathroom had hot water. Given theprice and location, we had no complaints about the room itself. However, it's worth mentioning that the staff were completelydisorganised - people's rooms were double booked, we were told to come at 10am and then to come back at mid-day tocheck in...we decided to go to the market and, when we got back at 3pm, the room still wasn't ready as they had forgotten toclean it. Overall, if you've been in Laos long enough to be relaxed and patient, this is a decent choice...if you will be justgetting to Laos, tired and wanting a smooth arrival, this may not be the place for you. By sasandtim on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 2/2009


Guide to Vientiane

good vibe very friendly, funny staff, who didn't seem anymore disorganised than the rest of indochina. would let us use their cutlery andcrockery when we came back from the night market. wouldn't mind when we came back in late at night/early morning. freebreakfast - usually basic (heart-shaped fried eggs), but occasionally quite nice. free cakes in arvo. seemed to be full by 5pmeveryday. small reception and seating area out front good place to meet fellow travellers. i paid 40,000kip for small singleroom on ground floor with shared bathroom (cleaned daily), fan, no window.By porkyrong on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 4/2009

Spotless, friendly, huge brekkie! I think Mixay has had a recent revamp as the reviews here don't do it justice in my opinion. I had a spotless twin room withcrisp white sheets and a gleaming shared bathroom. The staff were super friendly and attentive without being annoying. Thecomplimentary breakfast was endless. Toast, jam, coffee, heart shaped eggs, chicken curry (!), dumplings and Laos desertsweets. All this just kept coming from the kitchen until everyone had given up trying to eat. The price was a bit higher thanquoted by TF at 80000 kip for my twin room with fan but it was my favourite place to stay so far.By dourfankle on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 12/2009

MIMI GUESTHOUSE - 3/5Just okayFrancois Ngin StT: (030) 526 3000;One of the many budget spots crowded together on Francois Ngin Rd, Mimiis a decent choice if the popular guesthouses are full. The building itself looksa bit run down with laundry drying on the balconies, but their assortment ofsimple rooms are good enough for a short stay. Rooms don't pass the whiteglove test of cleanliness and the beds are quite firm, though the bathroomsare well maintained and have good hot water showers. The staff offer a widerange of other services including bike rentals, train or bus tickets, visas andcheap laundry. Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

RD GUESTHOUSE - 3/5Everything you need37-01 Nokeo Koummane RdT: (021) 262 112;Email: [email protected]: http://www.rdlao.comThis cheap and cheerful guesthouse invites guests to "relax and dreamaway". The rooms are small but immaculately clean with the facilities thatno-fuss travellers want, nothing more, nothing less. Choose from six-beddeddorms or private rooms that can accommodate one to four people. All roomshave en suite bathrooms smartly designed with the toilet and shower onopposite ends so nobody has to sit on a wet seat. Common areas offer lots ofcomfy spots to socialise and there's a multilingual library. Great prices and acentral location mean that RD fills up fast and, unless you can read Korean,you'll have some difficulties navigating the website. To secure a room, wesuggest you call or email.Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsOk, not great Spent one night here when I first arrived in Vientiane. $15 USD got me a double room with private bathroom on the 3rd floor.The only window looked out onto the hallway which, unfortunately, had a very bright light immediately outside. I woke up at2:30 am convinced it must be morning only to be sorely disappointed. Room was clean enough, but nothing remarkable. Bedwas hard and not very comfortable, bathroom had saloon doors and was basically clean. All in all, it was fine but not a greatnight's sleep. I think there are better budget options around. By brr1980 on 17th October, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 9/2010


Guide to Vientiane

VILLA MANOLY - 3/5Colonial charms and a small poolPhiawat Rd (road opposite Dan Chan Palace)T: (021) 218 907;Email: [email protected] away from the town centre, Manoly is a charming colonial villa set amidrambling green grounds. The spacious rooms have air-con, firm beds,modern bathrooms with shower or tub, and loads of character provided bylocal art and antiques. Rooms on the second floor have access to a terracewith rattan chairs, tables and a view of the lovely garden below. The familysuite is two interconnected rooms, one with a double bed and the other withtwo singles, so can easily accommodate four people. The grounds arespacious but feel a bit messy and even boast a small, if not particularly clean,swimming pool. Given its quiet location the staff can help arrangetransportation and rates include a continental breakfast. Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange )

Traveller reviewsNice and Quiet This is a nice and quiet place with a courtyard and a small pool. It might look a bit far on the map from the happening placesin the centre of the town. It is really easy to walk to town following the road along the Mekong River. Price: US28 for double.Recommended.By janitor07 on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 10/2006

Not worth the money Overpriced for what you get. US$28 for a room with air conditioning. No fridge. Staff not very accommodating and the firstroom we were show had huge gaps around the door where bugs etc could come through. Think you can do better for yourmoney.By jo8034 on 17th October, 2010, rated 1/5 after a stay here in 3/2007

Hidden oasis in Vientiane We stayed 3 nights in Villa Manoly. We payed 25$ a room (after bargaining). Our rooms (one for us, one for our 3 kidstogether) were facing the pool, which was super. We even had our own terras in front of the rooms with a wooden table androtan chairs. The pool was a delight, after a day of temples! It was very clean and well maintained at the time we were there.The garden was well kept too filled with many diffrent orchids. The breakfast however was a little poor, and hard to get.By boschgoesasia on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 7/2007

DOUANG DEUANE HOTEL - 3/5Comfort over styleNokeo Koummane RdT: (021) 222 301-3; F: (021) 222 300Email: [email protected] its faded appearance, big Douang Deuane hotel still has some lifeleft in it. The rooms aim for comfort over style with simple furnishings, old TVs,air-con, and clean attached bathrooms with hot water and tubs. Most of therooms have a small balcony and, as this is one of the taller buildings around,the higher floors offer great city views. Rates include a simple breakfast at thehotel cafe and WiFi, though it only reached the first two floors at the time ofour visit. All in all, if you don't mind the retro decor, the spaciousness of therooms and included amenities make Douang Deuane one of the better valuespots around.Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

Traveller reviewsa short stay is ok They offer free air port pick-up and drop-off (even at 5AM). The staff was helpful and spoke great English. There was noelevator in hotel, but they did carry our bags up for us. The room was nothing special, the wall paper was kind of grungy andpeeling off. Bring shower shoes the bath tub had mold (and yes, it’s a western style bathroom with a tub and showercurtain…1st time I’ve seen one of those in SEA). There were not any bugs in the hotel. The air conditioning work well. Therewas a refrigerator in the room. The beds were hard (normal for SEA), but the pillows were amazing. We had two double bedsfor $23. We got into Vientiane at 1PM and had to leave at 5AM the next day. The hotel was perfect for the short amount oftime we stayed there. But if we were going to stay longer, I think we would have changed hotels.By iwillfly525 on 17th October, 2010, rated 2/5 after a stay here in 4/2006


Guide to Vientiane

liked it Stayed there for 3 nights and really liked it! We had a double room in the 5th floor (they have an elevator now!) with a smallbalcony with and amazing view. The room was big and clean. Also the bathroom was perfectly ok, everything clean, no moldor anything else. The woman who seems to be the boss there spoke very good english, all the staff was nice and friendly. Wepaid 25$ per night.By sea2010 on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 1/2010

Always stay here This is where we always stay when in Vientiane on business which is about every 4 - 6 weeks. Since Jan 2010 a modestbreakfast buffet is included in the price as is free wi-fi in the lobby. Last year four rooms were added to each floor. The oldbathtubs have been rejuvenated rather nicely and nylon shower curtains have helped reduce the mildew factor. Some olderrooms are ready for a fresh coat of paint. They always use decent watt light bulbs. Also, each room has a mini safe in it. Evengreater value now with breakfast, wi-fi, and safes included. By Rowbare on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 2/2010

LAO SAKONH GUESTHOUSE - 2.5/5Will do at a pinch015/2 Francois Nginn RdT: (021) 216 571;One of the many budget guesthouses on Francois Ngin Rd, Lao Sakonhoffers simple rooms in a rambling pink building. A mixed bag of rooms run offfrom long corridors and are set up with your choice of double or twin beds,attached or shared baths, with fan or air-con. Rooms and bathrooms are keptpretty clean and the showers have hot water. The rooms are adequate for anight's sleep, but better budget options abound. If you do plan to stay here,definitely avoid the ground floor rooms as the noise from reception can be aproblem. Staff offer the usual array of services like laundry and ticket booking.Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsNeeds work The staircase leading up to the rooms feel like they are about to collapse, especially with my huge backpack on my back!!Our room had no window to outside and was very noisy, and dark! By miranda456 on 26th February, 2007, rated 2/5 after a stay here in 12/2006

SAYSOULY GUESTHOUSE - 2.5/5A good traveller's meeting point23 Manthatulath RdT: (021) 218 383-4; F: (021) 223 757Email: [email protected]: http://www.saysouly.comIn an attractive older building with shuttered windows and big balconies,Saysouly looks like a grown-up version of a guesthouse. However, at thisprice, you shouldn't be surprised by the simplicity of the rooms. The bestrooms are the breezy ones on the higher floors with en suite bathrooms,air-con, TV, mini-fridge, and polished wooden furniture. As usual, the cheaperfan rooms are significantly smaller and some lack an exterior window. Theshared bathrooms are kept clean and have hot water. A common area on thesecond floor is a great place to meet other travellers and the communalbalcony has been furnished with rattan lounge chairs and tables. Staff speakexcellent English and you can reserve online for the same price as walking-in. Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviews


Guide to Vientiane

This place is a dump. This place is neglected, filthy, and falling apart. It doesn't look like anything has been cleaned in years and grime coats all thewalls. Our door has several small holes in it, and the screens are ripped. The place is swarming with mosquitoes and ourroom at least had no mosquito net. There is a screen between our room and the neighbours room - higher than head levelbut adequate to share all noise. The wall between our room and the hallway is eroding and has some large holes in it levelwith the top of the door frame (the neighbour's room has a couple pieces of newspaper taped over what I assume is a similarhole). The two shared bathrooms I saw were not pleasant and I made sure to bring my sandals up to my room. Also, likeother reviewers have mentioned, my attempt to make a reservation was met with no reply whatsoever. We only stayed herebecause we tried a few other questhouses and all were booked (though we passed down one that was even worse thanthis!). Unfortunately we were somewhat swayed by the official Travelfish review which doesn't seem to be describing quitethe same scene. To be clear, there is nothing rustic about this place; it is just dirty and uninviting. For one night it sufficed, butat 90,000 kip it feels like a rip off. Pros: - The hot water in the shower I used was piping hot, though tricky to adjust withoutscalding myself. Still, the very hot shower was welcome. - Free WiFi on all floors (multiple routers) seem to work well. - Thebalcony-type lounging area seems relatively comfortable, though I didn't spend much time on it.By potejam on 3rd February, 2011, rated 2/5 after a stay here in 2/2011

web page I e-mailed them about a room and I received an e-mail back telling to go through their webpage to book. So if you go theredirectly it will save you a step. Here is the link to their webpage. http://www.saysouly.com/ By iwillfly525 on 17th October, 2010, rated 0/5 after a stay here in /

You can do better Staff adequate, English decent. Room sharing bathroom cheap. Room clean not a lot of space though. Bed was good andfirm with decent pillows, no towels so have your own handy. Signs everywhere advising you to be quiet and travel guide alsosays how quiet the guesthouse is but this was not the case when we were there. Shared bathroom not very clean and alwayswet and only 2 bathrooms on a floor catering for about 8-10 rooms. Bathrooms not cleaned regularly. Flush western toiletwith cold shower (the latter having decent water pressure). Had electrical outlet. Don’t know about bag storage but sure theyhave. No internet facilities but a row of internet cafés around the corner. No restaurant but some across the street and plentyin the area. Don’t know about laundry since we didn’t have to do any at that stage but sure they have. Bicycles andmotorbikes are for rent. No international payphones that we saw but there are places that provide international callservices.There is a balcony that has some chairs that is nice to relax in. Currency exchange is also available at reception andyou can pay in Baht or Dollar. Laos has no ATMs! You can draw money from certain travel agencies but a bit expensive andthey only give you Kip which is difficult to exchange for other currencies.By karelv on 17th October, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 12/2006

ORCHID GUESTHOUSE - 2/5Riverside value33 Fa Ngum RdT: (021) 252 825; F: (021) 216 588In a lovely Lao-French building with arched entryways, the Orchid is at theheart of the Mekong riverside action. The air-con rooms are spotlessly cleanand have a TV, attached bathroom with hot water, and your choice of one,two or three beds. Though some of the rooms are set up for spectacular riverviews (and you pay slightly more for them), they are obscured by bars overthe windows. The fan rooms are a bit stuffy and have not been as wellmaintained so take a pass on these. Some Travelfishers have complained ofhearing their neighbours through the paper-thin walls, but otherwise Orchid isgood value for riverside.Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

Traveller reviewsExcellent location on the Mekong Friendly, helpful staff, great location. 12 USD for a single room with TV, A/C and en suite. Unfortunately there was no fan inthe room and as I hate A/C and never use it (allergies) it got pretty stuffy. The sunset view on the Mekong from the rooftopterrace is stunning.By aemilys on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 8/2006

Great! Simple rooms but all that we needed, and we are older (but seasoned) travellers). Location is good near river foodmarketsthat were great. Air con room was good. Stayed there when we returned to Vientiane. The nearby morning aerobics class atabout 6am is not to be missed, and the roof is great for a nightcap.By dilakeman on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 11/2006


Guide to Vientiane

An awful dirty place This is an awful place even by the simplest laotian standard. We had booked one of their ''best balcony'' rooms. The roomwas actually big enough even if quite squalid. No one is expecting the Hilton for 16$ but this place is even too filthy ad dirtyfor the lowest standard. The mattress was thin and hard with only one tiny cover that was dirty and full of little holes. Thebathroom was in disgusting conditions, with not even any basic soap or toilet paper provided. The rooms windows didn'tclose properly and the room was facing one of the most noisy & dusty roads in Vientiane. Even though we arrived late in thenight, we checked in and out in less than 30 minutes. Would highly recommend the brand new place just 2 doors down (LVCity), for a similar price, you can have a quite nice place to stay. By ponkytwo on 17th October, 2010, rated 1/5 after a stay here in 12/2006

VIENTIANE - NEAR THE RIVER: UPMARKET

Despite the city being right on the river, few of the guesthouses and hotels are. Here are the upmarket hotels thatare either right on the river or within a block of it.

LE LEELA HOTEL - 4/5An oasis of calmBan Phiawat 33 Unit 10T: (021) 214 048; F: (021) 215 532Email: [email protected]: http://www.leleela.comTucked away down a quiet lane, Le Leela is a 15-room boutique hotel that had its soft opening inearly 2010. The setup is similar to Vila Manoly, its neighbour, and rooms are in a colonial-erahouse set amid leafy grounds scented by frangipani flowers. The rooms are minimalist and elegantwith hardwood floors, four-poster beds, a neutral colour scheme, and lots of open space. Thebathrooms are so clean they sparkle and some have separate showers and tubs. Deluxe roomsare enormous with a separate living area and the two-bedroom suites are perfect for families. Anelegant al fresco restaurant was completed but not open at the time of our visit. The price is a bithigh but so are the standards, and rates include American breakfast and WiFi.Price range: USD 50 to 100 (Toprange )

BEST WESTERN VIENTIANE - 4/5High standards near the river2-12 Francois Ngin RdT: (021) 216 906-9; F: (021) 216 223Web: http://www.bestwestern.comUntil mid-2010 this four storey business-oriented hotel in the centre of Vientiane was known as theTai Pan, but it was recently taken over by the Best Western. With the name change came somerenovations, and the rooms look fresh and modern with hardwood floors, large beds with crispwhite sheets, flatscreen TVs with movie channels, and LAN internet. The rooms are well laid outand furniture like comfy armchairs and a work desk are nice touches, especially if you're here onbusiness. As you would expect, standards are high and the staff polite and professional. The hotelhas a small but well-equipped fitness centre, a sauna, and a rooftop pool with great city views.Prices listed below are their standard rates with breakfast, but check their website or walk in to askabout discounts and special offers.Price range: USD 50 to 100 (Toprange )

PHASOUK RESIDENCE - 3.5/5Pretty, but overpriced57/4 Wat Xieng Gneun RdT: (021) 243 415; F: (021) 243 414Email: [email protected]: http://www.phasoukresidence.comAs elegant as the Amphone restaurant opposite it, this boutique hotel is immediately identifiable bythe golden tree painted on the front. The rooms are elegantly done with hardwood floors, carvedwooden furniture, and big sleigh beds with local textiles that add a pop of colour. Rooms have allmodern comforts like air-con, satellite TV, mini-bar, coffee maker and WiFi access. The suiteshave romantic corner bathtubs and private balconies with a city view. You can't deny that Phasoukis a lovely spot, but it seems a bit overpriced. If you're going to be in Vientiane for a while, enquireabout renting a mansion (house would be an understatement) by the month.Price range: USD 50 to 100 (Toprange )


Guide to Vientiane

DON CHAN PALACE HOTEL - 3.5/5Vientiane's superlative hotelUnit 6, Phiawat, VientianeT: (021) 244 288; F: (021) 244 111Email: [email protected]: http://www.donchanpalacelaopdr.comHaving somehow squirmed their way around Vientiane's development laws that restrict buildingheight, Don Chan Palace is the biggest, tallest, and most expensive hotel in town, and an eyesorealong the Mekong riverbank. Funded by foreign investors, it's firmly aimed at the mass tourism andbusiness travel communities and offers facilities for conferences, banquets and other specialevents. The rooms are what you'd expect for this top-tier price bracket and have expensivefurniture, all modern amenities, and stunning views of the river. The enormous suites haveseparate living and working areas, but even the standard rooms have a comfortable sitting areawith armchairs and a coffee table. The Don Chan complex includes a swimming pool, fitnesscentre, three restaurants, a disco, beer garden, and gift shops — plus there are plans to keepexpanding. Rates include a buffet breakfast and all taxes and fees. Check online for substantialdiscounts from the rack rates below. Price range: Over USD 100 (Luxury )

CENTRAL VIENTIANE

This covers the area within a short walk of the Nam Phou fountain, so everything west of the Presidential Palaceand between the river and Samsenthai Rd.

YOUTH INN 2 - 4/5New backpacker favouriteFrancois Ngin RdT: (021) 215 131;Email: [email protected] spin-off from the popular backpacker spot by the river, the new building furtherdown Francois Ngin is bigger and cleaner than the original. They've followed thesame formula for the rooms and guests can choose from fan or air-con, attached orshared bathroom. Rooms are large but under-furnished, though appliances likewall-mounted fans and mini-fridge stocked with complimentary drinking water arebrand new. All rooms have a window but the guesthouse is so close to theneighbouring building that they really don't let you see much at all. A couple ofrooms have private balconies and are usually the first to be occupied. You can buydrinks from the reception area on the ground floor where there's a communalseating area. Staff are competent and offer a range of services like laundry and bustickets.Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsNice Place, quite new Stayed in a nice big fan room with 1 double bed, private bath with hot shower for 60,000 Kip. All rooms have A/C, but it's anextra 20,000 for the remote. The room was very big but pretty much empty except for the bed. It was nice and bright andfairly quiet. They have free wifi but it was painfully slow most of the time. I was there for 2 nights at the end of September.By jfd3220 on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 9/2010


Guide to Vientiane

LAO PLAZA - 4/5Generic five-star hotel63 Samsenthai RdT: (021) 218 800; F: (021) 218 808Email: [email protected]: http://www.laoplazahotel.comA luxurious choice in the heart of the city, Lao Plaza has all the amenities plus thehefty price tag you'd expect of a five-star hotel. The 100-plus rooms are spaciousand outfitted in hushed tones and contemporary Lao furnishings. They are lovely,but generic. The hotel has a well-equipped fitness centre and a glittering turquoisepool surrounded by chaise lounges perfect for sun-tanning. Many shops,restaurants and services grace the sprawling lobby — you can buy some jewelry,reserve your flight on Vietnam Airlines, and eat some sushi without setting footoutside. The reception can be a bit stuffy but this is a good choice for those lookingfor large-scale luxury. Check their website for promotions and discounts.Price range: Over USD 100 (Luxury )

LAO ORCHID HOTEL - 4/5Chic midrange choiceChao Anou RdT: (021) 264 134; F: (021) 264 138Email: [email protected]: http://www.lao-orchid.comOne of the more upscale options near the riverbank, Lao Orchid's high standardsand Mekong views make it one of Vientiane's best midrange hotels. Rooms offer allmodern comforts like air-con, satellite TV and mini-bar, and have been tastefullydone with natural materials and muted colours. Woven rattan headboards andwood trim contrast nicely with creamy walls and earth-toned decor and the roomsare made up daily. The suites have a separate living room and, aiming at businesstravellers, can be rented by the month. The fact that rates include Westernbreakfast and free internet access in the lobby makes Lao Orchid a seriouscontender for this price range. Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange )

MALI NAMPHU - 4/5Flashpacker favourite109 Pangkham RdT: (021) 21 5093; F: (021) 26 3298Email: [email protected]: http://www.malinamphu.comThe wide, open entrance is an attractive introduction to this popular guesthouse inthe centre of Vientiane. Rooms above the lobby are the most affordable, but thereal gems are in the back building and wrap around a beautifully manicuredcourtyard. All rooms are decorated in a simple but tasteful way and have air-con,hot shower, satellite TV, and clean en suite bathrooms with hot shower. WiFi is freefor guests, though it only reaches the rooms in the back building. The on-siterestaurant, Mangolicious, serves tasty Lao cuisine all day in the garden courtyard.Our only complaint about Mali Namphu is how quickly its prices are rising, with thebudget travellers whose glowing reviews contributed to its popularity now priced outof staying here.Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange )

Traveller reviewsPricey but nice My husband and I stayed at Mali Namphu for 2 nights while in Vientiane - the hotel was very clean with attentive staff and alovely breakfast included in the price, especially as the courtyard setting for breakfast is delightful. However, the price wasrather high ($24/night) considering the other options in Vientiane, especially if you can find another hotel with a pool whichMali Namphu lacks. Also, it's worth mentioning that there were quite a lot of mosquitoes in the room though the staff was kindenough to put a coil outside our room in the evening upon request.By sasandtim on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 2/2009


Guide to Vientiane

Nice, quiet, clean and convenient I stayed at the Mali Namphu mid December 2008 while getting able a Thai tourist visa. I found the place to be of good valueand very convenient. Stayed 2 nights. Room was clean and door was lockable / latchable securely. The desk staff arrangedfor a night sleeper train and cross border transport which went off without a hitch. The price was about 250 baht more than if Ihad done this all by myself, but the convenience was great and I had a confirmed reservation on the train the next day. Thecross border transport was a truck to a bus to the border and then another truck to the train station. Transport andimmigration clearance took about 2 hours total. Next time I would do it myself and I saw people who couldn't speak Thai / Laodoing it this way. I WOULD GLADLY STAY WITH THEM AGAINBy Katmanpu on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 12/2008

OK well situated in a busy commercial road. Behind a narrow entrance, ther is a lovely garden where the breakfast is served. Therooms are small, but ok, and well furnisched. The price is ok for Vientiane.By paulsuzanne on 17th October, 2010, rated 2/5 after a stay here in 1/2010

SOUKCHALEUN GUESTHOUSE - 3.5/5Cheap and central121 Ban Mixay Sethathilath RdT: (021) 218 723;Email: [email protected] the dingy guesthouses that line Sethathilath Rd, Soukchaleun looks brightand modern. Prices are not as low as some of its neighbours, but the rooms hereare intended to be more than just a crash pad. The rooms with en suite bathroomsalso have TVs and mini-fridges, and the best of them have access to smallbalconies overlooking the street. The budget rooms contain little more than a bedand a fan, though the shared bathrooms are kept clean and have hot showers.Traffic noise can be a problem if you're a light sleeper. Staff offer the usual range ofservices like laundry, visas, bus tickets and bike rentals. The rooms with sharedbathrooms fill up quickly. Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

LANI GUESTHOUSE - 3.5/5Classic Lao elegance281 Setthathirat RdT: (021) 215 639; F: (021) 216 103Email: [email protected]: http://www.laniguesthouse.comTucked away down a small lane near Wat Hai Sok, Lani is a beautiful old Laohouse with flourishes of antiques and local handicrafts. The 12 rooms are breezyand spacious with air-con, mini-fridge, en suite bathrooms, and loads of character.The rooms in the main building are the most appealing of the lot, while the rooms inthe extension are slightly smaller and cheaper. The lush, tranquil grounds offer awelcome calm while still being central — the only time the peace is broken is whenthe monks play the drums. The rustic, charming rooms certainly aren't the bestvalue in town, but Lani consistently gets glowing reviews from guests who raveabout the gorgeous setting and helpful staff, plus rates include breakfast, WiFi, andairport pick-up.Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange )

Traveller reviewsLoved It It was a bit pricey but worth it. My room was huge, with AC and access to a nifty balcony full of wicker chairs. The people whowork here are tops and its nice to be just-away from the action, yet close enough to walk. Transport was also excellent. Notone complaint.By shinealightnyc on 17th October, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 3/2008

Good value for money I arranged for a complimentary airport pick up and am grateful that I did, even if the ride was ten minutes. The hotel staff arelovely and the location is ideal. The room itself is fine; comfortable and clean. There's no TV or internet facilities but there'slots of internet cafes close by. I stayed one night and was happy to have stayed here. Good value for money. By hanoimuna on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 11/2008

gorgeous!! had 2 nights here could have stayed more, it is a haven, tranquil and filled with lovely aesthetic touches,quiet, great service,fine people and a pot of coffee with breakfast!!! highly recomendedBy chrussell on 17th October, 2010, rated 5/5 after a stay here in 12/2008


Guide to Vientiane

VAYAKORN GUESTHOUSE - 3.5/5Warm and welcoming91 Nokeo Koummane RdT: (021) 241 911; F: (021) 241 910Email: [email protected] a pretty, white exterior dotted with leafy greens on the balconies, thismidrange guesthouse close to the centre of town offers some lovely rooms. Staffare polite and welcoming and run the place like a big hotel, probably due to theregular business visitors they receive. Rooms have quilted bedspreads, bigwindows and an abundance of wooden furniture — floor, desk, chair, armoire —but things come together in an agreeable way and rooms are spotlessly clean. Allthe modern comforts are accounted for including air-con, satellite TV, hot showersin sparkling clean bathrooms, and WiFi. Prices are significantly higher than otherguesthouses, but standards are proportionately higher. A small coffee shop servesbreakfast (not included), but no other meals. Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

Traveller reviewsQuite posh for the price It appears that this hotel has completed a major upgrade and now feels like a solid three-star place while they've evidentlyraised their prices. I stayed for five days in a large single room and they were quoting 22,000 kip (about US$26), including afilling breakfast, to everyone, it seemed. Still, the place has a great location in the middle of everything and it still seems like abargain. There's a huge, comfortable, and air-con lobby/breakfast room, which is very unusual in SE Asia. Also, the bed andlinens are high quality and rooms are large, so this is a great mini-splurge for budget travelers. WiFi signal in the room wasquite good as well.By rawjer on 23rd October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 10/2010

thumbs up We booked online to stay at Vayakorn House on first arrival in Laos. Rooms were very comfortable , spotlessly clean and theplace has a ggod feel -all that polished wood. We came back to Vientiane at Xmas and it is even more polished- a great stayif a little more costly than some will care for.By robydog on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 11/2009

great place This is a great place to stay. It is well located, rooms are nice, clean and spacious, with everything you need. One of the onlyplaces I actually spent a night in my room. There are a number of nice restaurants in the surroundings. And the staff was veryfriendly.By hdelcour on 17th October, 2010, rated 5/5 after a stay here in 10/2009

HAYSOKE 1 GUESTHOUSE - 3.5/5Good sized family rooms083/1-2 Hengboun RdT: (021) 219 711; F: (021) 219 755Email: [email protected]: http://www.laohaysokehotel.comPart of a small chain catering to package tour groups, this is the friendlier andbetter located of the Haysoke properties in town. Though the setup in a pinkishconcrete building is forgettable, rooms are clean and comfortable with thoughtfulextras like a mini-fridge, in-room telephone, and free WiFi. As with many otherplaces, the rooms with shared bathrooms are the smallest and least attractiveoption; the classic rooms with spotless en suite facilities and windows overlookingthe street are worth the extra kip. The young staff are friendly and the on-siteHaysoke Travel agency is a reputable source for booking any onward travel ortours.Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )


Guide to Vientiane

SYRI 2 GUESTHOUSE - 3/5Popular central choice63/6-7 Setthatilath Rd, VientianeT: (021) 241 345;Email: [email protected]'s second Syri guesthouse, this location is a bit more modern and locatedcloser to the riverfront. Their well-priced rooms are offered with your choice of fanor air-con and with private or shared bathrooms. The rooms with attached baths arebigger, brighter, and have a TV with a decent selection of English languagechannels. Some have access to a small balcony, but they are unfurnished andbarred in. The cheaper fan rooms share fairly clean bathrooms, but note that not allhave exterior windows. Staff are cheerful, knowledgeable about the city, and willeven let you pay for your room with a credit card. Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

DRAGON LODGE - 3/5Same reliable rooms, new lower prices311-313 Samsenthai RdT: (021) 250 114; F: (021) 250 113Email: [email protected] Lodge is a colourfully painted building with a dimly lit bar/restaurant on theground floor and modern rooms upstairs. Once a popular flashpacker spot, it'sfallen out of favour due to stiff competition from guesthouses closer to the river andrates have dropped accordingly. All rooms are clean, well furnished, and have anattached bathroom. The air-con rooms have TVs and some open onto a sharedterrace, though it's beside the road and gets a bit noisy. The young staff may seema bit clueless, but they're a friendly lot and eager to make you feel welcome. Lookfor the noticeboard in the restaurant where people post their travel tips.Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )

Traveller reviewsComfortable and safe I have stayed at Dragon Lodge several times in the past three years. I have always foudn it to be clean, safe and quiet. Themanager is extremely helpful with all sort of information and services for the guests. I especially like the lobby. The guesthouse is in a very convenient location. THE place to stay.By decha2006 on 17th October, 2010, rated 5/5 after a stay here in 9/2006

Consistently good Just stayed at Dragon again. Never fails to satisfy, the manager is so helpful, the staff quiet and efficient, the rooms cleanand adequate. Good water pressure in the bathroom, cheap laundry services.By decha2006 on 17th October, 2010, rated 5/5 after a stay here in 10/2006

You can do much better... Whether or not you like this place will depend on the (often volatile) mood of the owner/manager. He can act gracious andcharming...or he can be a real nightmare. After leaving one piece of luggage there for 4 days while I visited Luang Prabang, Ireturned to retrieve it - only to be told I would have to pay for one night's stay to get it back! This - along with the constantlyrising room rates and the dubious nature of the staff - should have you looking for somewhere else. For less money,Riverside Guesthouse has a great location and staff - and they don't rip you off! By JerryDeaton on 17th October, 2010, rated 1/5 after a stay here in 6/2007

PHONEPASEUTH GUESTHOUSE - 3/5Clean and central97 Pangkham RdT: (021) 212 263; F: (021) 261 395Email: [email protected]: http://www.laoguesthouse.com/Located right beside popular Mali Namphu, Phonepaseuth's prices have remainedmore consistent over the past years and they often absorb their neighbour'soverflow. The minty-green rooms are simple but comfortable with clean sheets overspringy mattresses, rattan furniture, cable TV, in-room phone, and attachedbathroom with hot shower. Even though the price is the same, some rooms arelight and airy with a balcony over the road while others don't even have an exteriorwindow. It's definitely worth requesting a room with a balcony. There's a computerin the lobby for guests to use and an on-site restaurants, though breakfast costs anadditional $2 per person.Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )


Guide to Vientiane

Traveller reviewsnice room but plumbing problems We stayed in a $15 room with A/C and TV. A lovely bright, clean room with a nice balcony. The guesthouse corridoors diddn'tsmell too good though. During the evening the water cut out, the toilet blocked and the shower went cold..but the staff werehelpfull and did all they could. We might have got them on a bad day.By ontour06 on 17th October, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 8/2006

the invasion of bedbugs!! stayed in a USD22 aircon room for 3 persons as the next door mali namphu was fully booked. we expected clean nice roomas shown in picture but was totally dismayed by the somewhat rather shady looking bedsheets and bedbugs! interrupting oursleep at night. although the toilet is ok, but rather small. not recommended as there are other affordable and cleanguesthouses around. By mysticsangria on 17th October, 2010, rated 1/5 after a stay here in 6/2008

Didn't even unpack My husband and I stayed at this hotel for 1 night when we arrived in Vientiane without a hotel booking and could not findanywhere to stay. The room was dingy with a window that was bricked up and the bathroom was grimy with mould stains onthe shower curtain. The entire room smelled like a urinal cake. Worst of all, in the morning, I learned that there were bedbugs which nearly ate me alive. We didn't even unpack our bags - we slept, woke up and immediately checked out and wenthunting for other accommodation. If you can't find anywhere else to stay, you'd be better to ask the tuk tuk drivers on thestreet - they might be able to help! Otherwise, be sure to bring a sleep sack and to check really well before putting up yourmozzie net.By sasandtim on 17th October, 2010, rated 2/5 after a stay here in 2/2009

SABAIDY GUESTHOUSE - 3/5Cheapest beds in town115 Setthathirat RdT: (021) 213 929; F: (021) 241 259Email: [email protected] bright turquoise, Sabaidy Guesthouse is a beacon for travellers on a verytight budget. Its rooms are the cheapest in town so you'll need to arrive early tohave any hope of securing one before they fill up. Dorm rooms have barebunk-style beds (you'll need to put down a deposit if you want a sheet or towel) orprivate rooms on the upper floor have one, two or three beds and a fan, but littleelse. All rooms share bathrooms which do have hot showers but could benefit frommore regular cleaning. Lockers are available to store your valuables and the staffoffer visa services, onward travel bookings and cheap laundry. Overall, theguesthouse is quite grungy, but it's great for meeting other travellers and you can'targue with the price.Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsNot a fan I know that almost two years have passed since I stayed here but I noticed there were no reviews so I thought I would addmy two pence. While the above review makes this guesthouse seem like a hive of activity, when I was there most of the dormbeds were free. The staff were not particularly welcoming but nor were they unwelcoming, simply indifferent to my arrival.The bed, or at least the mattress, was fine but they don't provide sheets. The major negative is that there are no mosquitonets either individual ones for your bed (I guess hard on a bunk) or even on the windows. I sprayed up before I went to bedbut still managed to get bitten more than I would have liked. The toilet/shower was unclean to the extent I did not want to useit. On a vaguely positive note the location is pretty good, it was right were the tuktuk dropped us off from the Northern(? - mybus came from VV) bus station. The guesthouse did seem very popular for people booking onward travel. Most of thesepeople were not staying at the guesthouse though, just using it to book buses. I never found out why. I had tried to get intoMixay guesthouse originally but they were full. In fact, many of the guest houses in that area were full by the time our busarrived. Overall, I would definitely not recommend staying at Sabaidy from my experience there.By christay2009 on 18th July, 2011, rated 2/5 after a stay here in 10/2009


Guide to Vientiane

CHANTHA GUESTHOUSE - 3/5Pleasant budget rooms, if you can get oneSetthathirat RdT: (021) 243 204;The Chantha has just nine clean, pleasant rooms with fan or air-con, and a Fullsign is a common sight on their door. Rooms feature the standard guesthousefurnishings of beds with firm mattresses, a fan, and little else. Most rooms shareclean bathrooms with a hot shower, but some of the ones with attached facilitieseven have a bathtub. Some rooms have individual balconies though there's acommunal one on the second floor perfect for people watching on the bustlingstreet below. The on-site restaurant didn't look very active and the central locationmeans that there are plenty of better eating options nearby. Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

GREATER VIENTIANE

This covers all guesthouses and hotels that are a bit more of a wander from the centre of town.

WONDERLAND 2 GUESTHOUSE - 4/5Hidden budget gemBan Sisaket 137, Unit 08T: (021) 222 917;Email: [email protected] away down a quiet lane running off from the That Dam roundabout, Wonderland 2 is agreat choice for an affordable room without sacrificing comfort or cleanliness. The immaculaterooms all have hardwood floors, TV, mini-bar and attached bathrooms with hot water. Thedouble rooms are available with your choice of air-con or fan, and a massive triple room has aprivate balcony. Though it's not free, the guesthouse is located within the Cyberia Hotspot zoneso WiFi is available. Though it's certainly not a place you'd accidentally stumble upon, thelocation is relatively central to Vientiane's attractions. Staff are helpful and the Lao restaurantnext door is a great spot for some local eats.Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsGood Longer-term I moved here from somewhere else. The prices were higher as shown of a laminated, hand-made card. I paid 105.000k for asingle on the first floor without window, attached with TV. They said it was the only such windowless room and all the othersare 130.000k. I stayed for about a week and all was good. There's an aggressive mastiff belonging to the shop opposite butthe lady showed me the short-cut alley by the side of the building to the main road so that was fine. There's a freewater-cooler, plus they kept my bags for a few hours for free when I left. I found that sound travelled up through the woodenfloor and kept asking to go upstairs in a similar room for the same price, but they didn't have it. Eventually, they moved me upto a 130.000k room on the third floor but discounted it to 105.000k and I stayed another week. This was really nice, greatroom. Overall, this was great value for Vientiane. Clean, friendly. Definitely haggle for longer stays. By lifemagic on 29th June, 2011, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 5/2010

Comfortable and quiet When I stayed there were only 3 rooms available so they must do good business. Room with 2 big single beds, a/c, fan,cable tv, clean, good h/w shower(120,000kip). Guy apologised for 2 flies in my room, came back with a zapper & removed.He was very helpful with directions etc. had good english. He did my eyedrops for me. There were no towels but he got themstraight away. Very quiet location. Walking distance to the bus station.By stoneman on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 8/2010


Guide to Vientiane

KHAMKOUN HOTEL - 3.5/5Convenient for transportationLane Xang AvenueT: (021) 223 475; F: (021) 263 674Email: [email protected]: http://www.khamkhounhotel.comSet in an attractive wooden building with a terracotta-tiled roof, Khamkhon's location near thebus station makes it popular with repeat visitors. Its 21 rooms are styled with polished woodenfurniture and flourishes of colour from local textiles, and all have air-con, cable TV, and cleanbathrooms with hot showers. Don't worry about the traffic on busy Lane Xang Avenue keepingyou awake as the rooms are well-insulated. You can enjoy your breakfast for only $2.50 at theon-site restaurant which doubles as a popular spot for swapping stories and drinking beer afterdark. There is also free WiFi for customers and motorbike rentals. Khamkhoun is very popularwith expats from Thailand on visa runs, and you can pay in dollars, kip or baht. Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange )

DAY INN HOTEL - 3.5/5Quirky hotel with cheerful rooms059/3 Pangkham RdT: (021) 223 848; F: (021) 222 984Email: [email protected] a cheerful yellow building near the city centre, the long-established Day Inn has a quirkycharm to it. The building was once the Embassy of India, and its rattan furniture, bright colourscheme, and breezy design give it a truly tropical vibe. The 30 rooms all come with air-con,cable TV, and fridge and 10 have large, sunny bathrooms with a big tub. Rates includebreakfast in the attached restaurant, a retro-fabulous eatery with seafoam green walls, funkychandeliers, and a diverse menu of Asian and Western dishes. Rates are a bit high for what youget and paying by credit cards incurs an additional 4% fee. Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange )

SYRI 1 GUESTHOUSE - 3/5A quaint family-run spotDu Puits RdT: (021) 212 682;Our preference of the two Syri locations, this quaint guesthouse in set along a quiet street nearthe national sports stadium. There are two buildings, one with updated air-con rooms and onewith well-worn fan rooms, plus a communal garden and verandah for lounging about. There's avariety of room setups (fan or air-con, double or twin beds, optional TV) and they vary in theirprice and appeal, so it's worth looking at a few before you settle in. The rooms may have aslightly worn look and give you the feeling of being in someone's house, but the friendly familythat runs Syri 1 will quickly make you feel welcome. Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsvery different rooms in two houses We spent one night in a room with fan in the main building in front. The room was quite dark with bathroom with hot showeroutside. The bed was horribly hard and only a piece of rubber foam as a matress. The price was 60.000 Kip. At the nextmornig we asked for another room and they offered us a very big, light and nice room with good matress in the house at theback. The room had an attached bathroom with cold shower. The price was also 60.000 Kip, a very good value for the money.If you have luck and you can get one of the better rooms, a very good option, if not only one of the cheaper alternatives in thecity.By Christoph on 17th October, 2010, rated 4/5 after a stay here in 12/2006

no thanks quiet yes, clean yes, room, quite uninteresting. far from the centre (relatively) but noisy street. single room was 50000 kip andnot worth it at all. bed mattress was almost inexistent. the solution for the night: big beerlao and a cold shower. stayelsewhere.By sinstone on 17th October, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 7/2009


Guide to Vientiane

LOVAN GUESTHOUSE - 3/5Cheapest air-con in townPhanompen RdT: (021) 213 307;A long-running budget spot, Lovan is not aging very gracefully. The rooms are nearly identicalwith rust-coloured floor tiles, hard double beds with mismatched sheets, and dingy attachedbathrooms with the occasional broken fixture. Most rooms are a pretty tight squeeze for twopeople plus luggage, though $2 more scores you a larger room plus a TV. The price tag — only100,000 kip even in the high season — is Lovan's most redeeming feature and the location isquiet without being too far from the city centre. The communal balconies are a great place forwatching local life go by and there's an internet cafe next door. Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker )

Traveller reviewsNice staff, very clean I had a room with no TV, I think I paid $5, the next day moved to a room with TV for $10 but it was not worth the extra money.Mattress could be thicker/softer. Very friendly owners/staff, very quiet location near stadium and museum.By bormanator on 17th October, 2010, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 11/2007

Some trouble with the bathroom We stayed at Lovan for one night, and had some trouble here with the bathroom, because it didn't flush. Besides that nocomplaints. Not too much noise in this area. By noledam on 10th April, 2005, rated 3/5 after a stay here in 4/2005

SETTHA PALACE HOTEL - 3/5Elegant6 Pangkham RdT: (021) 217 581-2; F: (021) 217 583Email: [email protected]: http://www.setthapalace.comSettha Palace is regarded by many as the best hotel in Vientiane, if not the whole of Laos. Itcertainly is absolutely stunning with a large foyer, classical French restaurant, and a gorgeousswimming pool with frangipani-scented air from the surrounding gardens. Spacious rooms andsuites are beautifully designed and luxuriously decorated with polished rosewood furniture, fluffyduvets, and marble bathroom with separate shower and tub. With so many elegant comforts,you may find you spending far more time in your room than you had planned. The staff offerpersonalised and professional service and you may see guests being chauffeured around townin the hotel's iconic London taxi ($11 to the airport). If you this is your price range, you will notbe disappointed. Check their website for special rates and discount packages. Price range: Over USD 100 (Luxury )

Traveller reviewsExcellent service I have had drinks by the pool here. The service is terrific. By chucky6 on 17th October, 2010, rated 0/5 after a stay here in 2/2008

Settha Palace FantasticBy isus on 17th October, 2010, rated 5/5 after a stay here in 11/2007

VILLA NONGDUANG - 2/5Rustic charmsBan Nong DouangT: (021) 242 292; F: (021) 213 938Away from the main guesthouse area, Villa Nongduang (previously Thong Bay Guesthouse) isa sanctuary of beauty and tranquility. Guestrooms are located in traditional wooden Laobuildings set in grounds graced with banana trees, coconut palms and several salas for relaxingin. The most basic rooms have beds on low wooden platforms and share bathrooms, while thedeluxe rooms have air-con, private bathroom with hot water, and beds fitted with bright localtextiles. As charming as the setting is, it's a bit of a hike to the city centre and rooms aren't greatvalue. Staff offer a range of extra services including laundry, bicycle or motorbike rentals, bustickets and meals. Villa Nongduang was formerly the Thong Bay Guesthouse and, althoughthey still offer a cooking class, it is not operated by the same people. Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker )


Guide to Vientiane

Traveller reviewsNo booking for us :( I arranged to stay here via their website and even double checked via email they had our booking 2 days before. They saidthey would pick us up at the airport for $5 but did not show, so we got a taxi and turned up but they said they did not have ourbooking despite me clutching an email from THEM to me saying 'your booking is confirmed etc'. They had rubbed our namesout but would not admit to the mistake so we had to find other accommodation - which to me was a better option anyway.Thongbay is too far out if you want to wander around Vietiane. I stayed at the Chanthpanya and it was GREATBy alison on 17th October, 2010, rated 1/5 after a stay here in /

owen & angie Don't bother! This place may have changed ownership recently. The European owner we dealt with was indifferent andarrogant. Our room was infested with mosquitoes, and we had to ask for repellant and a coil. The food was ok but expensiveand we were overcharged for a downstairs room with no windows. Go to town and get a better deal anywhere. Above all,stay away from this place until the owner learns about value for money!By owenb on 17th October, 2010, rated 1/5 after a stay here in 11/2006

very over-rated! The place was run by a NZ guy and his Lao wife when we visited. We stayed in the most expensive room available (USD20)and it was definately overpriced. The bed was just a mattress on the ground (no clean sheets), you had to go outside toreach the bathroom and the place was not clean. Even though we booked online to stay two nights we returned the next nightafter sight-seeing to find that they had kicked us out of our room and claimed we only booked one night. They packed up allour stuff and we didn't notice until a couple days later that our good torch was missing. The owners were quite rude(especially when we returned the second night) and the food and drinks were overpriced. Also beware if the guy offers yousome of his Lao-Lao whiskey. It is very strong and he only offers it because he thinks it is funny to watch tourists be sick. By Mars on 17th October, 2010, rated 1/5 after a stay here in 1/2007


Guide to Vientiane

Eat and meetVIENTIANE

Vientiane has a fabulous range of eateries to choosefrom. There is both budget-orientated tourist food rightthrough to high end gourmet Lao and French cuisine.The bulk of places are within a short walk of theMekong riverbank.

Cafés & bakeriesIf you're one prone to starting your day with a stiffespresso, you're in the right part of the world. Vientianehas a good selection of cafes to choose from and freeWiFi is becoming more and more common.

You could eat just about every one of your meals atJoma Bakery and Cafe and you wouldn't bedisappointed. Start your day with a perfectly-cookedAmerican breakfast or heavenly waffles with whippedcream and fruit, for lunch a selection of homemadesoups and create-your-own sandwiches, and sets ofpizza or lasagna with salad (Caesar, Greek, tacos)make a tasty and affordable dinner. The specialtycoffees and baked goodies are downright addictive —don't over look the cheesecakes and otherheat-sensitive treats kept in a small fridge — andattentive staff, indoor/outdoor seating, local newspapers,and free WiFi secure Joma's rightful place as the mostpopular cafe in town. A second location has opened atthe Water Park and they also have cafes in LuangPrabang and Hanoi.

For light fare in an elegant European-style cafe, LeBanneton is a fine choice. Early opening hours makethem a popular choice for breakfast, and breakfast setsare served with melt-in-your-mouth milk bread and yourchoice of espresso-based beverage. Their baguettesare the real deal — crispy on the outside, soft inside,and stuffed with fine ingredients like roast beef andsauted forest mushrooms — and their paninisandwiches, quiches, and tartines are the best in town.It's a shame they're not open later for dinner, as theFrench country ambience and jazzy music courtesy offsatellite radio encourages lingering.

Across the road from Wat Mixay, Le Croissant d'Or is acozy spot to watch local life pass by with a coffee andpastry in hand. The pastries — eclairs, pain au chocolat,cinnamon cake, fruit pies — are to die for, though theycook a good breakfast, too. The sets with coffee andfruit are a great value and named after different cities —the Paris breakfast comes with a croissant while theVientiane set with a baguette. For lunch there's

sandwiches, salads, homemade soups, pastas, andperfectly prepared quiche Lorraine. Though we do lovethe location for people-watching, the tucked-away backcourtyard is equally inviting.

The Scandinavian Bakery is almost an institution inVientiane, particularly so at breakfast when baguettes,croissants, and their famous honey bread are freshfrom the oven. The Scandinavian set is a hearty start toyour day with bread, salami, cheese, juice, and coffee,or if you come for lunch you'll find burgers, quiche, and,of course, Swedish smorgasbord sandwiches. Thesmall terrace outside is a lovely place to sit and watchthe world go by or there's a spacious dining room onthe second floor with a TV perpetually tuned to CNN.WiFi is free for customers.

The newest addition to Vientiane's coffee bar scene,True Coffee has a list of frappuccinos, lattes and othercaffeinated concoctions long enough to put Starbucksto shame. Of course, don't be surprised if the price isalso close to what you pay at home. True Coffee is veryWesternized with sleek furniture, chatty baristas, andthe fastest Internet connection in Vientiane, if not thewhole country. Their selection of gourmet pastries isdrool-worthy, including tortes, cookies, andcheesecakes. It's not hard to spend $10 on just a snackhere, but you might forget you're still in Laos. If you'retraveling without a laptop, they have new computerterminals and even sell Apple products like iPods andMacBooks.

Joma Bakery and Cafe: Setthatilath Rd (opposite KhopChai Deu) T: (021) 215 265 http://www.joma.biz/Le Banneton: Nokeo Koummane Rd T: (021) 217 321Le Croissant d'Or: 96/1 Nokeo Koummane Rd T: (021)223 741Scandinavian Bakery: 74/1 Pangkham Rd T: (021) 215199 http://www.scandinavianbakerylaos.comTrue Coffee: 111 Setthathirath Rd T: (021) 260 417

LaoYou are in Laos afterall! But if you find market eating abit too down to earth for you, there are someoutstanding specialist Lao food eateries well worthexploring. Makphet in particular should not be missed.

The banks of the Mekong make a great place to sit andenjoy a meal, and you will invariably find plenty ofbarbeques and make-shift restaurants lining theriverfront. Most are hastily assembled just beforesundown and stacked away around 22:00, though someopen earlier and close later. The food is simple but tasty,and the staples are grilled chicken, fish, spicy papaya


http://www.joma.biz/

http://www.scandinavianbakerylaos.com

Guide to Vientiane

salad and spring rolls served with a basket of sticky riceand some dipping sauces. Their menus are beginningto diversify and some offer "hot pots" — a fondue-likeexperience of cooking meat and veggies in a pot ofboiling broth. The ramshackle restaurants lack names,so it's hard to recommend one over another or even tellthem apart. Fruit shakes or big bottles of Beerlaocomplete the experience, and a meal on the Mekong isa must.

Though nearly every restaurant and riverside food stallhas fruit shakes on their menu, no one does them likethe House of Fruit Shakes. Shakes are made with realfruit and blended to perfection — not too watery, not toochunky. Flavours range from banana (tasty butmundane) to starfruit (more exotic, but slightly sour) tolemon mint (extremely refreshing) and most cost 6,000kip. Though the shakes are their namesake, don'toverlook the food. Wholesome muesli, soft baguettesandwiches, and fruit plates with yogurt make this agreat breakfast joint. There are only a few tables whichare often full, but a copycat restaurant has opened upnext door.

In a beautifully restored colonial mansion, Kua Lao hasa great atmosphere and popular set menus of Lao foodand wine. Every evening there is a cultural performanceof traditional music and dance, and the diners are aninteresting mix of package tourists and Vientiane'swell-heeled. The food — larb, grilled fish, spicy salads— is high-quality and presented beautifully, though theprice of the show is factored into the food and the samedishes cost half as much anywhere else. Nonetheless,dinner at Kua Lao certainly makes for a memorablenight out. For a less touristy experience, try going atlunch time.

Satisfy your appetite and your conscience with a dinnerat Makphet, a charitable establishment that hires andtrains former street kids to be cooks. If that isn't enoughto lure you in, the food is delicious with contemporaryversions of Lao favourites like buffalo curry, spiced porksausages, and grilled tomato, mushroom, and eggplantdips served with sticky rice. Portions are very generousand perfect for sharing, or order a half-size dish to feedone. Be sure to save room for dessert of homemadecoconut ice cream or mango and sticky rice. Afterdinner, browse the handicraft shop, Noi Noi, locatedabove the restaurant.

Though the riverbank is the most scenic spot for streeteats, more affordable, authentic Lao fare abounds atthe Vientiane's markets. Join the lunching shopkeepersat the Talat Sao Market (morning market) for a bowl ofnoodle soup or fried rice (from 10,000 kip) at the stallson the ground floor or cross the street to Talat Kua Din

(bus station market) for prepared curries, larb, andfarm-fresh produce. The night markets start up around17:00 and the Ban Anou Night Market, near the junctionof Chou Anou and Khoun Bouloum Roads, is one of thebest for its hand-made noodles, grilled pork, and Laosweets.

Sister to the popular restaurant in Luang Prabang,Tamnak Lao restaurant in Vientiane is a little harder tofind, though well worth it. In operation since 1993, it'sbecome a local favourite and serves surprisinglyauthentic Lao cuisine in a restored colonial house andgarden. Try the 6-course tasting menu to try classic Laodishes or order a la carte for larger portions of larb withfresh herbs, Mekong fish cooked in coconut milk, spicyseafood salads, sun-dried beef, and even somevegetarian options. The large, elegant restaurant ispopular with tour groups and they can organize culturalshows and Baci (string) ceremonies on request.

House of Fruit Shakes: Samsenthai Rd T: (021) 212200Kua Lao: 111 Samsenthai Rd T: (021) 215 777Makphet: On the street behind Wat Ong Teu (parallel toSethathirat Rd and the Mekong River front) T: (021) 260587Tamnak Lao: 100 That Luang Rd T: (021) 413 562

High endAs with any city popular with tourists and expats thereare some exceptional high-end eateries in Vientiane.Here's a short selection to start off with. Be sure to askfor the wine list as simple wines are very affordable.

Easily the most elegant spot to sample Lao cuisine,Amphone Restaurant is set with an absolutelygorgeous indoor/outdoor area on a quiet lane behindWat Xieng Gnuen. The food is as appealing as theserene setting and was good enough for celebrity chefAnthony Bourdain's introduction to Lao cuisine when hevisited in 2008. Dishes like larb, eggplant dip, grilled fish,and curries are richly seasoned with fresh herbs andfish sauce and, unless you request it extra-spicy, theuse of chili is minimal enough that everyone can enjoythe food. There's no better way to spend an eveningthan savouring their tasting menu and glass of winewhile soaking up Amphone's atmosphere.

Another fine choice for upscale French cuisine, LeCentral serves plats du jour in a quaint and tranquilsetting. Using the finest imported ingredients, the menuoffers indulgent dishes such as beef carpaccio, bluefintuna tartar, and a salad of duck breast and foie gras.Accordingly, this is not the most affordable restaurant in


Guide to Vientiane

Vientiane, but their daily set menu is quite reasonableat 75,000 kip for 3 courses. For a mini-splurge, get theTaste of France set with your choice of starter, steak orfish, and creme brulee for dessert. Bon apetit!

Smart, slightly up-market Le Cote d'Azur right on theriverfront has been open since 1996 and for goodreason. Authentic provencal-style cuisine like rabbitstew have made Le Cote d'Azur a hit with Frenchexpats looking for a taste of home, and the chef actuallyhails from Nice, France. The steaks and seafood are asfresh as it gets and many say their pizza with fresh basilis the best in Vientiane. There are a few tables crowdedonto the sidewalk outside the restaurant, but the insidedining room with wooden tables and Frenchcountry-house decorations is much more charming.

Amphone: On the small road beside Jazzy brick. Unit37 Ban Xieng Gneun T: (020) 771 1138Le Central: 077/8 Setthatirath Rd T: (021) 244 3703Le Cote d'Azur: 62/63 Fa Ngum Rd T: (021) 217 252

Western foodIf you just cannot face another plate of larp, don't fret.Vientiane has a good supply of international eateriesoffering everything from pizza to schnitzel. Prices tendto mid-range.

The food at the Ban Lao Restaurant and Beer Gardenis nothing to write home about, but we love the open-airsetting in a lush little garden complete with fairy lightsand a pond. The menu features the usual tourist fare —pizzas, breakfast sets, burgers, fried rice — but theirsmall selection of traditional Lao dishes like larb withsticky rice actually taste pretty good. As the namesuggests, they definitely serve BeerLao and you'rewelcome to just come here and drink. Despite the lovelysetting, Ban Lao doesn't seem too popular: think of it asKhop Chai Deu without the crowds.

Chokdee Cafe is Vientiane's first Belgian bar andrestaurant aspires to convert vegetarians with itsmeat-centric menu of steaks, kebabs, sausages, stews,fried mussels, and burgers. The meats are perfectlycooked, portions are generous, prices are reasonable,and side dishes like Belgian-style fries are so good theycould stand alone. Though you'd be crazy to come hereand not try the Belgian specialties, they also offer Laosalads, curries, and a traditional Lao tasting menu. Thestaff and regular clientele are a friendly, chatty bunch...did we mention the huge selection of European beers?

Dao Fa Bistro is a trendy eatery serving much moreformal meals than its neighbor, Joma Bakery. The

menu is modern fusion with a selection of salads,pastas, pizzas, crepes, and even breakfast sets. Thefocus is on healthy, fresh ingredients so expect thepastas to be homemade, the bread to be wholegrain,and the pizzas to come topped with lots of veggies andherbs. The decor is as modern as the menu with darkwood, art-adorned walls, and a small sidewalk terrace.Dao Fa also has a full bar and cocktails are discountedto 25,000 kip apiece during happy hour.

With good drink specials and spot-on American food,the Full Moon Cafe attracts a steady crowd of expatsand tourists. There's a bit of a Wild West theme goingon with Native American art adorning the walls, so itfeels like the right place to chow down on Buffalo wingsand pulled-pork sandwiches, even though Lao, Chinese,Vietnamese and Indian food also grace the menu.There's a daily happy hour from 17:00 - 19:00 on beerand cocktails, which are fairly priced even outside thesehours, and the restaurant can get a bit noisy even ifthere's no music. Free WiFi for customers.

We're skeptical that Hungry Burger's claim is true —The burger you're about to unwrap is the best in town— but Hungry Burgers is definitely a solid competitor forits price range. Whether you want pork, beef or chicken,all the burgers from this sidewalk stand are priced at abargain 15,000 kip and cooked fresh-to-order. Burgerswill be doused with mayo and chili sauce unless yourequest otherwise, and another 5,000 kip gets youcheese or a fried egg. Only burgers are available here— they don't even have fries — but they definitely hitthe spot if you're hungry and in a hurry.

Set in a two-floor colonial house, Lotus Restauranthas become an elegant organic restaurant and wine bar.At first glance the menu is the usual mix of Westernbreakfast sets, sandwiches, pizzas, and Thai curries,though they do make a good effort to include Laospecialties like rice soup, tamarind pork, and larp withfresh herbs. However, for the best selection of local fare,come during lunch for their Lao buffet (10:30 -14:00).Lotus is also very accommodating to vegetarians with avariety of meatless appetizers, soups, and mains.Despite their up-market turn, prices remain reasonableand the second floor dining area is cozy with cushionseating.

For a fine meal at midrange prices, and right beside thefountain, you can't beat Restaurant Le Provencal. Thislong-running favourite serves some of the best steak intown (all beef is imported) prepared with savory creamsauces or simply grilled (80,000 -120,000 kip). All maincourses are served with frites and ratatouille Nicoise.Though the restaurant is unmistakably French, otherEuropean fare like bruschetta, pizza, and pasta (from


Guide to Vientiane

50,000 kip) are also served and equally delicious.Attentive service and a charming setting near theNamphu fountain are the icing on the gateau.

Sticky Fingers is a groovy little bar/restaurant down asidestreet from the Mekong. The menu is veryinternational and many dishes use ingredients not foundin the region. The imported ingredients make the foodexpensive by local standards, but just try the salmonsteak, bruschetta, or couscous and you'll agree they'rewell worth the price. Daily specials are a good valueand happy hours on Wednesday and Friday eveningsmean that cocktails like their famous Som Tam martiniare half price. If you've had one too many, come backthe next morning for the hangover breakfast — with orwithout a bloody Mary. Free WiFi.

Satisfy your salsa cravings at Tex-Mex Alexia, the onlyMexican restaurant to be found in Vientiane, if not all ofLaos. The menu offers the expected range oftacos/burritos/enchiladas/fajitas with your choice offillings, plus some Gringo alternatives like pizza,spaghetti, or fried rice. The prices are high (mains from50,000 kip) for rather mediocre food, but obviously theydon't have much competition. The margaritas (35,000kip), however, definitely pack a punch. A band playsthroughout the day (you're guaranteed to hear HotelCalifornia) and starts out mellow in the afternoon butgets the place hopping at night.

The generic tourist restaurants that line Fa Ngum Rd,such as The Shade, attract a constant stream oftravellers looking for an inexpensive meal. Rather thandoing one type of cuisine well, their menus run thegamut from Thai to Western to Chinese to Lebaneseand, though decent, the food is not a revelation inflavour or freshness. In addition to their reasonableprices (you're hard-pressed to find anything over 35,000kip), their long opening hours — from breakfastbaguettes and coffee at 07:00 right through the day untilaround 22:00 — keep them busy.

Ban Lao Restaurant and Beer Garden: Francois NginRd T: (021) 212 930Chokdee Cafe: Fa Ngum Rd T: (021) 263 847Dao Fa Bistro Setthatilath Rd T: (021) 217 252Full Moon Cafe: Francois Nginn Rd (next to StickyFingers) T: (021) 243 373Hungry Burgers: Setthatirath Rd, near True Coffee T:( 0 2 1 ) 2 1 8 3 2 0http://www.facebook.com/pages/Hungry-Burger/330426987026Lotus Restaurant: Corner of Nokeo Koummane andHengboun Rds T: (030) 525 6700Restaurant Le Provencal: by Namphu fountain T: (021)

219 685Sticky Fingers: 10/3 Francois Nginn Rd T: (021) 215972Tex-Mex Alexia: Fa Ngum Rd T: (021) 241 349The Shade: Fa Ngum Rd T: (021) 261 587

Other Asian foodAside from the Lao food on offer, you can also pick upgood regional food in Vientiane. There is an especiallygood selection of Indian eateries.

An understated restaurant on a busy road, CafeIndochine pays nod to all countries of former FrenchIndochina including Laos, though the focus is clearly onVietnam.Daily specials marked on a board outside offer a goodintroduction to Vietnamese cuisine and even bettervalue. For example, set #3 includes lemongrasschicken, fresh spring rolls, soup, rice, and a fruit platterfor 40,000 kip. The staple dish of Vietnam, pho bo, isexecuted perfectly with steaming beef broth, firmnoodles, and fresh herbs, and priced at 20,000 kip. Thesetting is elegantly understated but service can be hit ormiss.

Catering to the influx of Korean tourists, Dok Champahas rebranded itself as a Korean restaurant. If youhaven't tried bulgogi, Korea's national dish of marinatedbarbeque beef, and have no plans to visit Seoul in thenear future, you can try it here. If that's not to yourtastes don't worry, the huge menu spans the globe fromthe American clubhouse sandwich to Russian borschtto humble Lao larp. The restaurant is deceivingly largewith seating in a small garden, an upstairs terrace, andeven private dining rooms, making it very popular withpackage tourists, Korean and otherwise.

A little down from Nazim, Fathima Restaurant isanother reliable spot for a satisfying Indian meal. Don'tbe put off by the dated decor — the food is excellent.There's so many dishes it's actually hard to choose,though the samosas, rogan josh, and aloo gobi(potatoes and cauliflower) are highly recommended. Ifyou still can't decide, opt for the thali which is a biground plate with small portions of various curries andvegetables plus rice. If you've saved room for dessert,they also have ice cream. Staff are polite and attentive,plus credit cards are readily accepted — even thoughyour total bill may only be a few dollars!

It seems like all the riverfront restaurants have addedMiddle Eastern food to their menus, but the newIstanbul Restaurant does it best. Here, the schwarmasand falafels are freshly prepared and the handmadepita bread is thick and chewy. The Turkish pizzas give


http://www.facebook.com/pages/Hungry-Burger/330426987026

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Hungry-Burger/330426987026

Guide to Vientiane

bold new flavors to an old favorite and vegetarians willlove the ones topped with eggplant. The servers arefriendly and will help explain the menu if needed. Checkthe whiteboard for the daily special — it was Turkishmeatballs with salad, sides, and a big beer Lao for40,000 kip during our visit — a steal!

Japanese food appears to be the latest dining trend inVientiane with sushi restaurants like Kitchen Tokyopopping up around the city. Though it's not the chicestsushi joint around, Kitchen Tokyo makes up for in valuewhat it lacks in style offering set lunches of miso soup,assorted sushi, and tea for a mere 30,000 kip. Otherclassic Japanese foods appearing on the menu includeudon noodles, rice bowls, Japanese-style pork curryand, of course, sake. Though the ground floor diningroom is quite non-descript, the upstairs area hastraditional-style seating with mats and cushions on thefloor to complete the experience.

Part of the chain with locations in every Lao town bigenough to have tourists, Nazim is a cheap and cheerfulIndian restaurant. The menu offers more than 150 itemsincluding the usual favorites like chicken tikka masala,biriyani rice and naan bread, plus some South Indianspecialties like the masala thosai (a lentil crepe filledwith curried vegetables). Vegetarians will have noproblem finding something to eat and most items, eventhe meat dishes, cost less than 40,000 kip. Nazim isrightfully popular and the service is attentive even whenit's a full house.

Rashmi 's Ind ian Fus ion comb ines thestrange-sounding mix of Indian and Chinese cuisines,and pulls it off with varying degrees of success. If you'reintrigued, the best way to sample the goods is duringtheir lunch buffet from 11:30 to 14:30 priced at 35,000kip. In terms of ambience, the restaurant is modern andthe floor-to-ceiling windows in the upstairs dining roomoffer some picturesque views, though mostly of the LaoPlaza Hotel across the street. In an effort to keep fusingnew cuisines, Rashmi's has added a bakery and pizzaoven to their repertoire. Is anyone in the mood formutton pizza? Note that Rashmi's is Halal.

Cafe Indochine: 199 Setthatilath Rd T: (021) 216 758Dok Champa: Chao Anou Rd (opposite the Lao OrchidHotel) T: (021) 251 739Fathima Restaurant: Fa Ngum Road T: (021) 219 097Istanbul Restaurant: Francois Ngin Rd T: (021) 218 320Kitchen Tokyo: Chou Anou Rd T: (020) 770 3923Nazim: Fa Ngum Rd (next to Orchid Guesthouse) T:(021) 223 480Rashmi's Indian Fusion: 316 Samsenthai Rd T: (021)251 513

BarsYou just haven't "done" Vientiane unless you've had acold drink down by the river. You don't need to stopthere though as there are a bunch of other joints tochoose from, from backpacker digs to flashy cocktailbars.

Filling a void in the Vientiane entertainment scene, BlueBananas is a friendly Lao/Western restaurant by dayand a chilled-out backpacker bar by night. The drinksare limited to simple cocktails or beer (2-for-1 from17:00 - 19:00), but it's the convivial atmosphere andendless entertainment like pool tables, video games,WiFi, and music that keep people coming back nightafter night. A collection of board games includesfavourites like Scrabble and Jenga and, if there's a bigfootball or rugby game on TV, it'll definitely be playinghere. Look for the bright blue building on SamsenthaiRoad.

As carefree as its name suggest, Bor Pen Nyang (Noworries in Lao) is a popular travellers bar and restaurantright on the riverfront. The set-up makes the most of the4-floor building with pool and snooker on the secondfloor and an open air rooftop terrace on the top level.The great views of the river make it a popular place tobe for sunset, or anytime after dark really, and thebartender can mix a special sunset cocktail. Though it'sdefinitely more of a watering hole than a restaurant, thekitchen can prepare pub grub like burgers, nachos andchicken wings and the Lao specialties like river fish orlarb aren't half bad. If you want to mix and mingle withfellow travelers, this is the place to be.

Rub elbows with Vientiane's well-heeled at the JazzyBrick, another bar that buys into the trend of a moresophisticated drinking experience. The entrance islocated a few doors down from Joma Bakery and a signstating the house rules — no shorts, singlets or barefeet — is prominently displayed. The rather strict dresscode may deter some, but those who enter are in for agrown-up evening of expensive cocktails (the menu lists150 of them) and, if you're lucky, live jazz music. Theinterior is sleek and modern with a mix of dark woodand — what else? — exposed brick. The Jazzy Brickoften stays open later than the 23:00 curfew.

A fun, funky spot is Martini Lounge with its long barstocked with all the favourites. Comfy chairs andchill-out music encourage staying a while and workingyour way through their extensive cocktail menu. Startwith a classic like a black Russian or mai tai, thenadvance to the Asian fusion cocktails like a lemongrassmartini or sex on the Mekong (cocktails from 35,000kip). Every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, moviesare screened at 20:00 in the upstairs lounge and on


Guide to Vientiane

Thursdays, salsa lessons and dancing could add somespice to your stay in Vientiane.

Well past the Spirit House where Fa Ngum Road turnsto dirt, the bank of the Mekong is lined by ramshacklebars with cheap beer and expansive views. SalaSunset Khouta remains one of the most popular of thelot with its rickety wooden platform set over the edge ofthe embankment that affords some lovely views of theriver, especially as the sun is setting. This, or any of thesimilar bars in this area, is a great place to wind downafter a hard day's sightseeing. A happy hour daily from17:00 - 19:00 makes the cheap drinks even cheaper.

Looking oddly out of place on an unpaved road near theMekong, the Spirit House is the most sophisticatedcocktail bar that Vientiane has to offer. The bartenderstake great pride in the cocktails which include somespectacular concoctions like a green-tea infused ginand tonic or a martini with sake and pickled ginger. Ifyou're not that adventurous, there's more familiar mixesplus imported beers, cognacs, whiskeys, and a veryimpressive wine list. Drinking here is almost affordableduring their 17:00 - 20:00 happy hour when cocktailsare 25% off. If you get peckish, the food is as elegantas the drinks with a selection of tapas and sandwichesor full meals like steak or homemade meat pies.Whether you dine in the wood-accented dining room oron the riverside terrace, your needs will be impeccablytended to. Free WiFi for customers.

Forget you're in Asia with a pint at the The Hare &Hound, a proper English pub in the centre of Vientiane.

The owners have gone to great lengths creating theperfect atmosphere, from the pub's smart brick facadeto the cozy wood paneled interior with bar stools andGuinness signs. The bar is fully stocked with premiumspirits and imported beers from the UK and Europe. Ifyou're hungry, the menu features authentic pub grublike steak and kidney pie, bangers and mash, and porkchops (meals from 40,000 kip). Oddly, the only thingthat feels out of place is the Beer Lao.

The Samlo Pub is almost as much of a Vientiane iconas the three-wheeled vehicles that are its namesake.Even though it's kind of a dive, the pub has beenlovingly maintained for its older expat regulars and hastwo bars to keep the drinks flowing when the pub fills uparound 22:00. With TVs showing sports, classic rockmusic on the speakers, and a busy pool table it can getpretty noisy inside, but that's part of Samlo's charms.The pub tends to stay open later than most, usually until1:00 or so, and anyone still wanting a drink afterlast-call shares a tuk-tuk to one of the Lao discos.Blue Bananas: Samsenthai Rd T: (021) 219 732Bor Pen Nyang: Fa Ngum Rd by the Inter Hotel T: (021)261 373 http://www.borpennyang.comJazzy Brick: 47/1 Setthathilat Rd T: (020) 771 1138Martini Lounge: 96 Nokeokumane Rd T: (020) 752 9638http://www.martini-laos.com/Sala Sunset Khouta: Fa Ngum Rd (right at the end ofthe dirt road after The Spirit House) T: (020) 771 1138Spirit House: Fa Ngum Rd (continue on theembankment along the dirt road) T: (021) 243 795http://www.thespirithouselaos.comThe Hare & Hound: Francois Ngin Rd T: (021) 222 308The Samlo Pub: Samsenthai Rd T: (021) 222 308


http://www.borpennyang.com

http://www.martini-laos.com/

http://www.thespirithouselaos.com

Guide to Vientiane

Sights and activitiesTHE LAO NATIONAL MUSEUMThis two-storey colonial mansion became the Lao National Museum in 1985 and houses enoughrelics of Lao history and culture, both ancient and modern, to make a visit worthwhile. The firstrooms you come upon after entering the museum are filled with a hodgepodge of ancient artifactslike Khmer sculptures, dinosaur bones, pottery fragments, and a single jar from the Plain of Jars inSavannakhet. Though the items themselves are interesting, the displays are reminiscent of highschool presentations in both scope and sophistication plus many items are improperly stored. Forinstance, the Jar is treated like a wishing well and visitors can throw coins inside.

The upstairs exhibits are better organised and trace the modern history of Laos from the Siameseinvasions and eventual colonisation by the French through to revolution, communism and theAmerican war. The information here is more detailed, though it mostly involves reading, and thereare some stunning photographs of guillotines, old prisons, and soldiers, though many are missingEnglish captions. The tone of the information is strongly one-sided (the Americans are"imperialists"), but the museum's display on UXOs earns them some sympathy. The final roomupstairs is a shrine to Kaysong Phomvihane, the prime minister from 1975-1991, with all manner ofhis personal items including a chest expander and spoon he once used.

The final room of the museum is a new display chronicling modern Laos' agricultural achievementsand involvement with the ASEAN, but it is less than inspiring.

A small souvenir shop on the ground floor looks like it hasn't made a sale in decades and itsmodest inventory of booklets and handicrafts is coated with dust. Don't miss the museum's guestbook near the exit — the comments from past guests are an amusing read and range fromdebates about the American War to random complaints about taxi rip-offs.

Note that bags and cameras are not allowed, and you will have to check them in small lockers atthe entrance (free).

PATUXAIThe large concrete monolith at the end of Lane Xang Ave is Patuxai, the Victory Gate of Vientiane.Except for the Buddhist details visible up close, Patuxai was clearly designed to resemble Paris'sArc du Triomphe. We're not sure what victory it's supposed to be celebrating — perhaps the end ofFrench colonisation? A small plaque describing its history is comically modest, describing Patuxaias a "monster of concrete" and "less impressive" from a closer distance. Construction wascompleted in the late 1960s and it was built using concrete donated by the USA for building a newairport, hence its other nickname: Vientiane's "vertical runway". It's possible to climb to the 7th floorfor a good city view (3,000 kip), but unfortunately they lock it up by late afternoon so you can't stickaround for the sunset.

The park surrounding Patuxai is a lovely spot with flower gardens, a dancing fountain, snack stallsand plenty of benches. It's a popular relaxation spot for students, monks and families and a reliableplace to strike up conversation with locals.

THAT LUANGNo town in Laos is complete without a stupa or two and, as the capital city, it seems fitting thatVientiane has the biggest. Located about 2 km east of the Patuxai monument, golden That Luangis the national symbol of Laos. The stupa was first built in 1566 and was said to contain a hair fromthe Buddha, but repeated attacks over the following centuries mean the stupa has been rebuilt andremodelled many times. The gleaming structure you see today was reconstructed in the 1930sunder the guidance of the French, and its tapering golden spire rises 45 metres into the sky. ThatLuang's size is best appreciated from a distance, especially around sunset, or you can pay to enterthe inner courtyard for a closer look.

The statue near the front gate is of King Setthathilath who is reputed to have commissioned theoriginal stupa when he relocated the capital to Vientiane from Luang Prabang. That Luang wasonce flanked by temples at all four sides, but only Wat Luang Nua and Wat Luang Tai remain. ThatLuang and its grounds are the epicentre of the annual That Luang Festival.


Guide to Vientiane

WAT ONG THEUKnown as the Temple of the Heavy Buddha, Wat Ong Theu was originally built in the late 16thcentury by King Setthathirat but, like most of Vientiane, it was destroyed during the Thai invasionof 1828. The temple you see now was rebuilt at the turn of the 20th century and sits in a shadycompound surrounded by palm trees. The temple is quite colourful, with bright yellow and redaccents ,and inside sits the temple's namesake, the largest cast bronze Buddha in the province.This sizable sitting Buddha was the only object from the original Wat Ong Theu to survive therazing, and now sits serenely surrounded by smaller statues and offerings. Though the temple isnot the most spectacular in the city, its location near many guesthouses makes it a convenientplace to go for a meditative stroll. Inside the temple grounds is the Sangha School where monksfrom across Laos go to study Buddhist doctrines.

This is also where a monthly "monk chat" is held to give the resident monks a chance to practisetheir English with tourists. It's held on the first Sunday of the month, 15:00 - 17:00. You can findVientiane Monk Chat on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=61357874708) oremail them at [email protected].

WAT HO PHRA KAEWVisitors to this lovely temple set amid manicured grounds would never guess it has such aturbulent history. The wat was originally built in 1565 to serve as the personal temple of the Laoroyal family, but was razed and looted during the Thai invasion. The name of the temple is homageto the sacred relic it once housed, the Emerald Buddha, which was stolen by the Thais and nowsits in a temple of the same name at the Grand Palace in Bangkok. The temple you see now wasrenovated in the 1940s and, even without the Emerald Buddha, it's worth a visit for its gallery of18th century bronze Buddha statues. The collection of art celebrates Buddha in all his forms anddevotees wrap the images with saffron fabric or affix squares of gold foil to the faces. The templegrounds are lush and there are a few shady spots for some meditation. Keep an eye out for a jarfrom the Plain of Jars beneath a small shelter on temple grounds.

WAT SI MUANGA bit east of the city centre, Wat Si Muang is a little temple that plays a big role in the daily lives ofmany locals. Though it is a Buddhist temple, its story offers some insight into how the Lao peoplehave merged their former animist beliefs with Bud Many variations of the legend abound, butapproximately 300 years ago a young pregnant woman named Si Muang was sacrificed at this siteand a pillar built over her body. To this day, Si Muang is still worshipped and the temple thatstands on the spot carries her name in honour, as does the village. There is no signage telling thestory, but look for a pile of old bricks next to a small statue of Si Muang at the back of the temple.

The temple is known for giving luck and fortune, and many people come to pray or be blessed bythe resident monks. The street opposite the temple is lined with vendors selling flowers, incense,candles, and other yellow-coloured temple offerings. Entrance to the temple is free, but you haveto pay for parking motorbikes and bicycles inside the grounds.

WAT SISAKETBuilt between 1818 and 1824 by King Chao Anou, Wat Sisaket survived the Thai invasion in onepiece, thus making it the oldest temple in Vientiane. The temple features a Bangkok-style designwith large pillars and a five-tiered roof, perhaps why it was the The sim is surrounded by a roofedcloister containing thousands of Buddha statues — the official count is 6840 — and fading muralsillustrating the story of the Buddha's life. Efforts have been made to convert the temple into amuseum and there are signs in English about its history and artifacts. A small admission fee iscollected to enter the main area, though some parts of the temple like the monastery and libraryare outside the admission zone.


Guide to Vientiane

WAT MIXAY, WAT CHAN, WAT INPENG, WAT HAYSOKEThese four temples are a short walk from the guesthouse district, so most travellers will at leastpass by them, if not actually go inside. These are functioning temples and not set up as touristattractions, so don't expect any English signs or informati Rather, they are pretty and peacefulrefuges from the tourist scene by the river and are an excellent opportunity to explore a Lao templewithout a tour group following right behind you. Wat Chan has an interesting three-tiered drumtower and the grounds of Wat Mixay house a primary school. Look around for intricate murals andstatues of demons called Yakshas that guard the entrances. Remember to dress respectfully andtake off your shoes if you wish to enter the main building.

THAT DAMA short walk from the centre of town, this blackened stupa is regarded as more of a landmark thanan attraction. It's clearly quite old, but there is no signage or any information about it. Legend isthat That Dam was home to a seven-headed dragon with the power to protect Vientiane frominvaders — perhaps its failure to do so is why this stupa receives no up-keep! There's little to seehere, but there are some charming cafes beside it. Free.

PRESIDENTIAL PALACEThe classically-designed residence at the junction of Lane Xang Ave and Settathirath Rd is the LaoPresidential Palace. The sprawling mansion with colonnaded balconies was originally built tohouse the colonial French governors, but now serves as a venue for government functions. It is notopen to the public so, unless you're a visiting head-of-state, you're not getting any closer than theroad.

LAO NATIONAL CULTURE HALLThe palatial building opposite the National Museum on Samsenthai Rd is the unfortunatelyunderused National Culture Hall which opened in 2000. Grant money from China paid for itsconstruction, but the Culture Hall has no budget of its own to put on any cultural events and simplyacts as a venue for visiting performers and exhibitions. The rare times that the building is open tothe public there will be an event listing in the Vientiane Times.


Guide to Vientiane

LAO CULTURAL SHOWSWhile most visitors concentrate on the museums, temples and the riverbank, Vientiane does alsooffer cultural shows showcasing some of the different traditional styles of dance and entertainment.Here are two. The Lao National Theatre presents Yensabai, a performance of traditional dancing,Monday to Saturday at 17:30. The performance runs for just over an hour and showcases a varietyof different dance styles including Loum, traditional lowland dancing, and dances from some of theminority ethnic groups. Tickets to Yensabai cost $7 per person ($4 for children) and are availableat the theatre starting from 16:00 or most guesthouses and travel agencies.

For dinner and a show, try Phatoke Laoderm at the Senglao Hotel. The 1.5 hour performanceconsists of 19 short displays of different dance styles, traditional musical instruments, and scenesfrom Lao plays. The food is surprisingly authentic with seven dishes plus sticky rice and dessert.The show starts at 19:00 daily and the $12 price includes everything but drinks.

Lao National Theatre Manthatoulat Rd. T: (021) 501 7773 Phatoke Laoderm Senglao Hotel, Chou Anou St T: (021) 263 981 http://phatokelaoderm.com/

MEKONG RIVERFRONTIf you haven't drunk a Beerlao on the bank of the Mekong, you have not been to Vientiane. In a cityof few must-see attractions, a leisurely evening of food and drink by the river has become theiconic Vientiane experience. Though there are always a couple simple restaurants open along theriver, the area really comes alive after sunset with food vendors, souvenir booths, and hundreds ofdiners, both tourists and locals. The food is tasty, cheap, and local — skewers of meat, sticky rice,papaya salad, laarb — and eaten at plastic tables or on woven mats laid out on the ground.

A massive riverbank reconstruction project is currently underway but should be completed by theend of 2010. Though the piles of sand and bulldozers certainly detract from the Mekongatmosphere, they have not stopped the nightly orgy of food and beer on the riverbank. Theconstruction plans are to convert the area into a park to stop erosion, and will likely mean a newand improved Mekong River experience with more permanent eateries.

NAM PHOU (FOUNTAIN) SQUAREKnown as Nam Phou in Lao, the central fountain has been an icon of Vientiane for nearly 100years. The area surrounding the fountain has been turned into somewhat of a park with flowergardens, benches, and some of the city's top-rated restaurants and cafes.

It's a lovely spot for a morning coffee or makes a convenient meeting place. It's also a touristhotspot and the tuk tuk drivers who hang around here like to ask three times the going rate, so beready to haggle with a smile. Open 24 hours.

COPE VISITORS CENTREA phenomenal example of Lao people helping their fellow countrymen, COPE was established toprovide medical treatment, prosthetics, and mobility devices to people who could otherwise notafford them. Many of the people that COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise) treatare victims of the UXOs that litter Laos, but others have been affected by traffic accidents ordisease. Considering the graveness of the subject matter, the Visitors Centre is an optimistic placeand the work they do is truly inspiring. Inside you can see UXOs and learn how they are cleared,watch documentaries, browse their library, and see the prosthetics and wheelchairs they make.

COPE aims to be self-sufficient and the wheelchairs they fashion out of bicycle parts areremarkable. Beside the Visitors Centre is a small cafe with excellent ice cream (profits support thecentre — hint hint) and a sports centre that is home to Vientiane's wheelchair basketball league.

Admission to the centre is free, but you can make a donation or purchase something from their giftshop to show your support. COPE is about 500 metres east of the Morning Market or a tuk tukdriver will take you there for abound 20,000 kip.


http://phatokelaoderm.com/

Guide to Vientiane

MAG VISITORS CENTREAlong with COPE, another place to learn about the landmine problem in Laos is the Mine AdvisoryGroup (MAG) Visitors Centre along the riverfront. MAG has been clearing landmines in Laos since1994 and was a co-laureate for the Nobel Prize in 1997. The Visitors Centre offers a close look attheir important work through slide shows, documentaries, aerial bombing maps, and a collection ofUXOs. Admission is free but you can show your support by making a donation and receivingpostcards or a T-shirt.

MASSAGERejuvenate your body and soul after stomping the streets (and dodging the potholes) of Vientianeby popping into one of the plentiful massage parlours. Lao massage is a blend of Swedish oilmassage with the acupressure and stretching of Thai massage, and is a relaxing experience.

Massage options range from hole-in-the-wall beauty salons to luxurious spas, and the atmosphereand service varies as greatly as the prices. Cheap, traveller-friendly massage spots line the roadsnear the riverfront and a 60-minute massage can cost as little as 30,000 kip. On Francois Ngin Rd,Mixay Massage offers good, cheap Lao massage or foot massage in a simple shop space abovea cafe. Nearby, the Oasis Spa offers massage plus other beauty services like manicures andskincare.

Two of the most popular spas in Vientiane are The Mandarina and Champa Spa located nearMali Namphu Hotel on Pangkham Rd. Though their prices are a bit higher, they offer morecomfortable surroundings and a higher level of professionalism. Massages start from 60,000 kipand their package deals for three hours of spa pampering are a real bargain.

If you're travelling with kids and planning a trip to the Nong Chanh Water Park, you may berelieved to learn there's also a spa there. Spa Heaven is among the newest spas in town andmakes a great refuge from the shouting and splashing. Services include facials, manicures, bodyscrubs and hair styling. Most of Vientiane's spas generally open at 09:00 and take their lastappointment by 21:00.

For a unique massage experience, the forested temple of Wat Sok Pa Luang offers traditionalherbal sauna and massage. Though the outdoor setting is rustically charming, the mosquitoeshave learned people on the massage table make an easy meal. The massage style is a bit peculiarand is a bit more touchy than others, so it's not for everyone. Use of the sauna is 10,000 kip and amassage is 30,000 kip. Both include a cleansing cup of herbal tea once you're finished.

Mixay Massage 011 Francois Ngin Rd, upstairs from Vista Wi-Fi Cafe. T: (021) 215 576.Oasis T: (021) 243 579. Open daily 09:00–22:00.The Mandarina Spa 68 Pangkham Rd. T: (021) 223 857.Champa Spa Corner of Pangkhan and Fa Ngum Rds. T: (021) 251 926.Spa Heaven Nong Chanh Water Park, T: (020) 760 1111. Closed Monday. Wat Sok Pa Luang Sok Pa Luang Rd. Open daily 13:00–19:00.

SWIMMING POOLSBeat the dry heat of Laos with a dip in one of the many swimming pools scattered across town.The best are undoubtedly the ones at the city's top hotels, and most are open to the public for amodest fee. Try the Don Chan, Lao Plaza, or Best Western hotels for access to their swimmingpools and fitness centre for less than $10 a day. On Sundays the luxurious Settha Palace andNovotel open up their poolsides to non-guests for a sumptuous Sunday brunch. The cost iscurrently $12 at the Novotel and $18 at Settha Palace and includes pool entry.

The best value dip in town is at the large public pool on Ky Houng Rd (leading up between theNational Museum and the Lao Plaza Hotel). Open daily from 08:00 to 20:00, it costs only 20,000kip per person (children 10,000 kip) and is clean with a small upstairs terrace. Drinks and snacksare on sale. Alternatively, try the Daraphone swimming pool near the Lane Xang hotel for thesame price.


Guide to Vientiane

NONG CHANH WATER PARKOpened in 2008, Nong Chanh Water Park is lots of fun and a great place to cool off. With hugeslides — the likes of which were previously unheard of in Laos — it is an impressive sight onKhouvieng Blvd, near the central bus station. Joma has opened a cafe in the park to ensure goodeats between the slides. If you're only there to observe admission is 10,000 kip, otherwise use ofthe slides is 40,000 kip for adults or 25,000 for children. There are changing rooms on site and alocker rental is 10,000 kip.

TEN PIN BOWLINGIn a city without a lot of entertainment options, bowling has really taken off with young Laotians.There are two bowling alleys in Vientiane: the Lao Bowling Centre a couple blocks past the LaoPlaza Hotel on Khoun Boulom Rd and The Alley a Visiting either one is a lot of fun and a sure wayto make some local friends. The Alley has more modern facilities, but the Lao Bowling Centre islivelier with loud music and lots of Beerlao and often stays open until 03:00 on the weekend.Though we didn't see any official price list, foreigners seem to pay $2 per game before 19:00 and$3 per game after 19:00, while locals pay less. The price includes shoe rentals but remember tobring your own socks.

Lao Bowling Centre T: (021) 223 219. Open 09:00–24:00 (but usually later)ITECC T: (021) 415 477. http://www.lao-itecc.la/. Open 13:00–24:00.

NATIONAL SPORTS COMPLEXThe Lao National Stadium in Vientiane is looking better than ever after hosting the SEA Games inDecember 2009, even though most events were hosted at the new complex 16 km outside the city.The large complex includes tennis courts, a shooting range, jogging track, and a football pitch.Though facilities aren't explicitly open to the public, if you hang around there's a good chance you'llbe invited to pick up a racquet or catch a local football team practising.

CINEMAFor now, Vientiane does not have a proper movie theatre but that's set to change with Phase 2 ofthe Talaat Sao Mall construction, which will have a three-screen cineplex when completed. Untilthen, there are a few locations in Vientiane that regularly screen movies.

The two screens at the Lao-ITECC centre show predominantly Thai-language movies, butHollywood blockbusters make an occasional appearance. At 15,000 kip it's good value, though thelocation is not central and the screen is not state of the art. Call the cinema to find out show timesand if the movie has an English or Thai soundtrack.

The French Language Centre on Lane Xang Ave (opposite the tourist office) also has occasionalscreenings of French films with English subtitles. For upcoming movies check the Vientiane Timesor call. Screenings are usually held Tuesdays and Thursdays at 19:30 and Saturdays at 15:30.Admission is 10,000 kip for non-members.

Another place to catch a movie is the Martini Lounge. Movies are shown Mon–Wed at 20:00 intheir comfy second-floor lounge and tend to be independent, artsy films. As long as you're eatingor drinking, the movie is free.

Lao ITECC T: (021) 415 477. http://www.lao-itecc.la/French Language Centre T: (021) 215 764. http://ambafrance-laos.org/france_laos/Martini Lounge http://www.martini-laos.com/


http://www.lao-itecc.la/

http://www.lao-itecc.la/

http://ambafrance-laos.org/france_laos/

http://www.martini-laos.com/

Guide to Vientiane

ADVENTURE TREKS AND TOURSThe tourist boom in Laos has largely been due to the country's vast potential for adventure traveland eco-tourism. Opportunities for kayaking, trekking, cycling, rafting, caving, climbing and moreexist just a short distance outside the city limits and can be arranged through local tour operators.

One of the best is Green Discovery with an office next to Khop Chai Deu on Setthathirath Rd.Tours include everything from day trips to the Khao Khouay Park for animal viewing to three-dayoff-road adventures that include rafting, caving and trekking through some really unexplored partsof the country. Prices vary according to the length of tour, the activities included, and the numberof people.

Exotissimo is another well established company specialising in adventure tours that take you welloff the beaten track. Their offerings include city sightseeing tours, eco-treks in the nearby parks,voluntourism opportunities in northern Laos, and even extended trips that take you to neighbouringcountries. Visit their website or drop by their office on Pangkham Rd for full details. Their prices area bit higher but so are their standards.

Lao Youth Travel is a backpacker favourite and located right beside the Lao Youth Inn on FaNgum Rd. They offer a full range of tours around Vientiane and deep into northern Laos as well asother travel services like visa arrangements, flight bookings and car rentals. They're committed tosustainable tourism that benefits local Lao communities.

Green Discovery 54 Setthathirath Rd. T: (021) 264 528, F: (021) 218373. Open 08:00-20:00.http://www.greendiscoverylaos.comExotissimo 44 Pangkham Rd. T: (021) 241 861–2, F: (021) 252 382, Open 09:00-18:00, closedSundays.http://www.exotissimo.comLao Youth Travel 39 Fa Ngum Rd. T: (021) 240 939, F: (021) 213 037. Open 08:00-17:00http://www.laoyouthtravel.com

BUDDHA PARK (WAT XIENG KHUAN)Though the locals call it Wat Xieng Khuan, this attraction 25 km outside the city limits it not atemple but an outdoor collection of religiously-inspired statuary. The huge images were built in the1950s by Lao mystic Luang Pu Bunleae Sulilat who hoped to unite the Buddhist and Hindu faithswith his art.

The grounds are peaceful and well-manicured, and the combination of the lush foliage, riverbankscenery and bizarre statues make for great photos. Some of the pieces are so large that it's hardto do them justice with a picture. This is particularly true of the 50 metre-long reclining Buddha, somost visitors climb on top of it for a photo opportunity and a scale reference. Another highlight is agiant pumpkin with three levels representing hell, earth and heaven. You can go inside via ademon's mouth and ascend the narrow staircase all the way to heaven (the top) for a goodviewpoint of the park.

There are more than 200 sculptures in the park but very little information in English about whatthey represent. If you're interested in learning more about the mythology, the monks who hangaround the park are usually happy to educate tourists.

Most of the sculptures face away from the Mekong, so a visit in the early morning will offer betterlight than the afternoon for taking photos. The park has a full range of facilities including a gift shop,restaurant, and food vendors, the latter making the spot perfect for an impromptu picnic.

The creator of Buddha Park left Laos in the 1970s and went on to create the bigger Wat Khaeksculpture garden across the border in Nong Khai. If you've visited Wat Khaek you may be a bitdisappointed by Buddha Park, but otherwise it's one of Vientiane's top daytrips.


http://www.greendiscoverylaos.com

http://www.exotissimo.com

http://www.laoyouthtravel.com

Guide to Vientiane

TransportAIR

Vientiane's Wattay International Airport (airport codeVTE) is 3.5km west of the city. Transport from theairport to the city is by a pre-paid coupon and fixed at$6/54,000 kip. Travelling from the city to the airport youhave more power to bargain with the tuk tuk drivers and,though they'll initially quote a similar price, you canbargain it down a bit.

Five mainline carriers currently serve WattayInternational Airport, including the national carrier LaoAirlines plus AirAsia, THAI, China Eastern and VietnamAirlines. Departure tax is now included in ticket pricesand is $10 for international flights or 5,000 kip fordomestic flights.

International destinations include:Bangkok (THAI, Lao Airlines)Chiang Mai (Lao Airlines)Hanoi (Lao Airlines, Vietnam Airlines)Ho Chi Minh City (Lao Airlines, Vietnam Airlines)Kuala Lumpur (AirAsia)Phnom Penh (Lao Airlines, Vietnam Airlines)Siem Reap (Lao Airlines)Nanning (China Eastern) Kunming (Lao Airlines, China Eastern)

Domestic destinations include Luang Prabang, Pakse,Huay Xai, Udomxai, Luang Nam Tha, and Sayabouri.There are daily flights to Luang Prabang, Pakse, andXieng Khouang, and flights to other towns three or fourtimes per week. These flights are occasionallycancelled if there are not enough passengers.You can view the domestic departure schedule at:http://www.laoairlines.com/flights/domestic-flight-schedule.html

Lao Airlines Head Office02 Pangkham Rd, VientianeT:(021) 212 057F:(021) 212 065http://www.laoairlines.com

TRAIN

In 2009 tracks were laid over the Mekong River makingit now possible to enter Laos by train from Thailand.You can get a visa-on-arrival at the new ThanalengTrain Station but, oddly, it is located in the middle ofnowhere so you'll need to take a tuk tuk the final 20 kmto Vientiane. The price is not fixed but, sharing a tuk tukwith a group, the fare to the city should cost around 100baht each.

Train service #70 departs Thanaleng at 17:00 andarrives in Bangkok at 6:25 the next morning. A hardseat costs 300 baht, or a soft seat is costs 450 baht.Considering the journey takes over 13 hours, a sleeperis a better choice and costs 600 baht for fan, 800 bahtfor air-con, or 1,300 baht for a VIP sleeper. Though it costs about 200 baht more, it's not a bad ideato book your ticket from a tour agency as it will includetransport from your guesthouse to the train station.

BUS

To further complicate the already arduous task ofoverland travel in Laos, Vientiane has three busstations: the Central Bus Station, the Northern BusTerminal, and the Southern Bus Terminal.

Central Bus StationThe Central Bus Station (Khou Din) is located besideTalaat Sao Market and has bus services to nearbymunicipalities, a few further destinations in Laos, andnorthern Thailand.

Of the local bus routes, Bus #14 is the cheapest way toget to Buddha Park or the Friendship Bridge (5,000kip) and departs roughly every 20 minutes, 06:00–17:30.Bus #29 goes to the Southern Bus Terminal (Dong Dok)every 10 to 20 minutes and costs 4,000 kip. A fewbuses (#3, #30, #49) pass the turn-off to the airport,though none actually go to it. Note that local buses areoften marked only with Lao letters and numbers, but thestation staff will happily direct you to the right bus.

Tourists are often told to go to the bus stations out oftown for long distance services, though it’s possible tocatch a bus to Vang Vieng, Savannakhet or Pakse here.However, the other terminals have better buses andmore frequent departures for these routes. Service toVang Vieng departs at 07:00, 09:30, and 13:00; toSavannakhet at 05:00, 06:00, and 70:00; and Pakse at13:00, 14:00, and 15:00. Check the large white signswith destinations and departure times printed in Englishfor the most recent schedule.

The Central Bus Station also offers convenient serviceto Nong Khai, Udon Thani, Korat and Khon Kaen innorthern Thailand. From any of these cities it is easy tocatch buses to other destinations within Thailand.

Khon Kaen 08:15, 14:45. Price: 50,000 kip, 4-5 hoursKhorat (Nakhon Ratchasima) 07:30. Price: 80,000 kip,7 hours Nong Khai 07:30, 09:30, 12:40, 14:30, 15:30, 18:00.Price: 15,000 kip, 1 hourUdon Thani 08:00, 10:30, 11:30. 14:00, 16:00, 18:00.Price: 22,000 kip, 2-3 hours


http://www.travelfish.org/location/thailand/bangkok_and_surrounds/bangkok/bangkok

http://www.travelfish.org/location/thailand/northern_thailand/chiang_mai/chiang_mai

http://www.travelfish.org/location/vietnam/hanoi_and_surrounds/hanoi/hanoi

http://www.travelfish.org/location/vietnam/saigon_and_surrounds/ho_chi_minh_city/ho_chi_minh_city

http://www.travelfish.org/location/cambodia/phnom_penh_and_surrounds/phnom_penh/phnom_penh

http://www.travelfish.org/location/cambodia/western_cambodia/siem_reap/siem_reap

http://www.travelfish.org/location/laos/northern_laos/luang_prabang/luang_prabang

http://www.travelfish.org/location/laos/southern_laos/champasak/pakse

http://www.travelfish.org/location/laos/northern_laos/bokeo/huay_xai

http://www.travelfish.org/location/laos/northern_laos/udomxai/udomxai

http://www.travelfish.org/location/laos/northern_laos/luang_nam_tha/luang_nam_tha

http://www.laoairlines.com/flights/domestic-flight-schedule.html

http://www.laoairlines.com/flights/domestic-flight-schedule.html

http://www.laoairlines.com

Guide to Vientiane

Northern Bus StationThe Northern Bus Station, 2 km northwest of the citycentre (sometimes called the Luang Prabang busstation), is the main departure point for Luang Prabangand other northern destinations as well as buses tosouthern China.

Buses bound for Luang Prabang depart regularlythroughout the day, with about one every 2 hours,though most tourists prefer the overnight sleeper bus.The air-con buses are perfectly comfortable for the longjourney, or the VIP buses provide a bit extra space andusually a snack and bottled water. Any bus bound forLuang Prabang can drop you off in Vang Vieng, thoughyou pay the same ticket price as if you were going allthe way. A better option is to book a mini-bus ticketfrom a travel agency (10:00, 14:00; 60,000 kip).

Travel agencies in Vientiane charge about 150,000 kipfor a ticket on the air-con bus to Luang Prabang, thoughthis will include pick-up from your guesthouse andtransport to the bus station.

Sample destinations include:

Luang Prabang (air-con) Departs 06:30, 07:30, 09:00,11:00, 13:30, 16:00, 18:00, 19:30, 100,000 kip, 10hoursLuang Prabang (VIP) Departs 08:00,0 9:00, 20:00,120,000 kip, 10 hoursLuang Nam Tha (air-con) Departs 08:30, 140,000 kipUdomxai (air-con) 06:45, 13:45, 16:00, 17:00, 110,000kipPhongsali (air-con) Departs 07:15, 160,000Sam Neua (air-con) Departs 07:00, 9:45, 150,000

Service to China:Kunming 14:00, 600,000 kipMengla 11:00, 290,000 kip

Southern Bus TerminalThe Southern Bus Terminal (Dong Dok) is the maindeparture point for all destinations south of Vientianeand international services to Vietnam and Cambodia.It's located about 8 km north of the city centre on Route13 leading up from the Patuxai monument and tuk tukswill ask for 50,000 kip to take you there, though you canbargain them down a little. An alternative is to take bus#29 from the Central Bus Station for 4,000 kip. Again,buying your ticket from a travel agency will cost morebut it includes transport to the bus station.

Sample destinations include:Attapeu Departs at 09:30, 17:00, 20:30 , costs 130,000(local), 150,000 (air-con)Pakse (local bus) Departs at 07:15, 10:00,12:30,13:00,

13:30, 14:00, 14:30, 15:30, 16:00, 120,000 kip.Pakse (Express) Departs at 18:00, 19:00, 20:00, costs150,000 kip.Pakse (VIP) Departs at 20:30, costs 180,000 kip.Salavan (local bus) Departs at 06:30, costs 120,000kip.Salavan (Express, via Pakse) Departs at 19:30, costs150,000 kip. Savannakhet (local bus) Departs at 05:30, 6:00, 06:30,07:30, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00, costs 100,000 kip, takes 10hours.Savannakhet (VIP) Departs at 05:30, 07:30, 20:30,costs 130,000 kip, takes 8 hours.Sekong (local bus) Departs at 04:30, costs 120,000kip.Thakhek Departs at 05:00, 06:00, 12:00, 13:00, costs75,000 kip.

Services to VietnamVinh, Thanh Hoa, Hanoi Departs at 19:00, costs160,000 kip, 180,000 kip, 230,000 kip.Hue, Da Nang Departs at 19:00, costs 180,000 kip,230,000 kip. Ho Chi Minh City Departs at 19:30, costs 500,000 kip.

Services to CambodiaPhnom Penh: Departs at 20:30, costs 450,000 kip

Bangkok VIP BusAny guesthouse or travel agency can sell you a ticketon the overnight VIP bus to Bangkok. The bus is quitecomfortable with air-con, reclining seats, movies andWiFi, and the price includes a stop for supper. You'll bepicked up at your guesthouse around 17:00, changebuses at the border, then arrive in Bangkok around06:00 the next morning. The price is 750 to 800 baht,depending on where you want to be dropped off (KhaoSan Road, Morchit bus station, or the airport).

Minibuses to Vang ViengThe easiest way to get to Vang Vieng is to book a seatin a minivan through your guesthouse or a travelagency. The ticket includes pick-up from yourguesthouse at around 10:00 or 14:00 and costs 60,000kip.

Friendship Bridge and the crossing into ThailandI f you are arr iving overland from Thailand,visas-on-arrival are issued at the Lao border crossingand are valid for 30 days. The visa fee ranges from $30to $42, depending on your nationality, and it's best topay in US dollars.

There is direct bus service from the Nong Khai busstation to Vientiane for 55 baht, or you can do it yourself.The shuttle bus between the immigration posts is 20


Guide to Vientiane

baht and, on arrival on the Lao side, you'll have tobargain with a tuk tuk for a ride to the city. If there's agroup of six or more, a fair rate would be 50 baht perperson. Otherwise, hiring a taxi to take you the wholeway will cost around 300 baht.

From Vientiane going to Thailand, the easiest way is totake the Nong Khai bus from the bus station near themarket. Alternatively, you can arrange a taxi from thecentral market to drive you to the Friendship Bridge for100,000 kip.

The Lao–Thai Friendship Bridge is just a 10- to15-minute walk from the Nong Khai train station, or aquick tuk tuk ride if you don't fancy carrying your bags.

BOAT

Regular passenger boats no longer run from Vientiane— in either direction.

GETTING AROUND

Vientiane is a small city with manageable traffic and theonly deterrent to going everywhere by foot is themidday heat. Since hosting the SEA Games in 2009,Vientiane's biggest danger to pedestrians—massive

holes in the sidewalks—have mostly been fixed andnew signs sponsored by Beerlao point the way to thetourist attractions.

Vientiane does not have any system of public transitaround the city, instead relying on a fleet of persistenttuk tuk drivers. Prices are very affordable for locals but,as a tourist, it's tough to get a lift even a couple blocksdown the road for 10,000 kip. Starting prices aresignificantly inflated, especially near Nam Phu fountain,and you'll have to bargain to get a fair price. Many tuktuk drivers carry laminated papers listing destinationsand prices to make the inflated fares seem more legit,but prices will drop if you seem disinterested. A fairprice for a trip within the city is 20,000 kip or 60,000 kipper hour of sightseeing within the city.

If you prefer having your own wheels, motorbikes andbicycles can be rented at many guesthouses or touragencies. You'll need to leave your passport or somemoney as a deposit. A 100cc motorbike starts at $8 or,for something with more style or power, go to JulesClassic Rentals where bigger bikes are $25 per day.

Jules Classic Rentals: Beside JoMa Cafe. T: (020) 7600813. http://www.bike-rental-laos.com


http://www.bike-rental-laos.com

Guide to Vientiane


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