Guide for Make-Up Artistry

Suitable for Make-Up Artistry, covers units: UV30441, UV20437,UV20438

Name:

Before you can start to apply any make-up to a client’s face, you first need to identify their skin type. There are 4 main skin types which are:

Normal Oily Dry Combination

Each skin type has its own characteristics that you can look for to identify it.

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Dry Skin

Lacking in oil

Prone to milia

around the eyes

Fine texture

May feel tight

Matt texture

Flaky texture

Refined pores

Prone to early

aging

Prone to fine lines

Fine or broken

capillaries

Oily skin

may be moist or tacky to

the touch open

pores

shiny appeara

nce

blocked pores.

Blackheads /

Comedones,

pustules and

papules may be present.

tissues thickene

d

Sallow tone

coarser texture

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Normal or balanced

skin

healthy normal

skin colour.

even thicknesses, soft, supple with fine-

grained pores.

good elasticity is not dry,

moist, dull or shiny.

free from imperfecti

ons

Combination skin will have select characteristics from the oily, dry and normal skin types.

Within the Skin types, there are also skin conditions:

Dehydrated skin

Recognised by the following characteristics:

• lack of skin moisture (rather than lack of skin oils)

• fine lines

• may appear oily or dry but it will soak up any moisture applied

Sensitive skin

Skin may be touch sensitive i.e. reddens quickly on touch or sensitive to products and prone to allergic reactions.

Recognised by the following characteristics:

• prone to redness

• may look irritated and red

• often slightly warm to the touch

Mature Skin

Recognised by the following characteristics:

Loss of elasticity Loose Skin Tissue Dropped Contours

The condition of the skin is affected by several factors…

Environmental factors

• Wind chill factor

• Air conditioning

• Central heating

• Extremes of weather

• Exposure to extremes of temperature

• Exposure to ultraviolet light causes dehydration, loss of moisture, damage to collagen and elastin fibers which harden, loss of firmness to skin and muscle tone, premature ageing and pigmentation irregularities

All the above affect the skin tissues by leading to dehydration through loss of moisture and encourage premature aging of the skin.

Lifestyle Factors

Include:

• Smoking which leads to poor circulation, congested blocked pores, lack of nutrients and skin discoloration

• Drinking which causes dilation of blood capillaries

• Lack of a daily skin care regime leads to dehydration, skin sensitivity, broken capillaries and wrinkles.

• General health affects the nutrients available to the tissues, prolonged illness may lead to depletion of subcutaneous fat, dehydration, wrinkles, loss of skin tone and dark circles

• Poor diet leads to lack of minerals and nutrients which leads to dry, dehydrated skin tissues

• Natural ageing results in contours dropping, expression lines/wrinkles, decrease in collagen and sebum production, increase in pigmentation irregularities and superfluous hair growth

• Hereditary factors include how muscles are attached to skin tissue and bone structure, decline in cellular reproduction varies with individuals, hormonal imbalances affect moisture content pigmentation and hair growth

• Stress can affect skin tissues causing frown lines, wrinkles, dark circles, dry, dehydrated skin with areas of sensitivity

Patch Testing/ Allergy Skin Test

• A patch test is a test that make-up artists will carry out before application. It should be completed at least 48 hours prior to the treatment and applied either behind the ear or on the inside of their elbow using a disposable applicator.

• The most common products to test for are adhesives, removers and any type of body paints.

• The product should be left for 24 hours on the skin before being washed off.

• Advise the client to contact you if any contra-actions occur and seek medical advice.

• It’s important that you have filled out a client record card and patch testing form to ensure you are covered by your insurance in the case of any adverse reactions occurring.

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Skin Structure and Function

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Contra-Indications

A contra-indication is a condition that either prevents or restricts a treatment. Prior to applying make-up, you must carry out a visual check of the condition of the client’s face for any of the following conditions.

The following will prevent a treatment:

• Bacterial infections e.g. boils, conjunctivitis or impetigo which will prevent treatment due to the risk of cross-infection

• Fungal infections e.g. ringworm will prevent treatment due to risk of cross-infection

• Viral infections e.g. herpes simplex or cold sores will prevent treatment due to risk of cross-infection

• Severe skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis

The following will Restrict a treatment:

• Watery eyes

• Bruising

• Cuts and abrasions

• Recent scar tissue

• Epilepsy: caution with lights

• Broken bones

• Skin allergies

• Undiagnosed lumps and swellings

• Product allergies

• Recent fractures and sprains

Contra-Actions

• Contra-Actions are something that occur during or following a treatment. They can include:

• Redness

• Swelling

• Severe Erythema

• Allergic Reactions

• Rashes

• Hives

• Product entering the eye.

If any of these occur, you should remove the make-up immediately and apply a cold compress. Instruct the client to seek Medical Advice from their GP.

Task 2- Name the 7 main functions of the skin

ProtectionThe skin protects the body from bacterial infection and injury.

Heat regulatorTo compensate for changing temperatures outside the body, the blood and sweat glands make the necessary adjustments to their functions, thereby maintaining the normal temperature of a healthy body (37°C).

SecretionSebaceous glands secrete sebum which coats the skin’s surface and helps to waterproof it, at the same time slowing down the evaporation of moisture from within. It also creates a barrier which inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria.

ExcretionSudoriferous glands excrete perspiration, which is waste matter. The mixing of sweat and sebum on the skin’s surface forms the protective layer of the acid mantle.

AbsorptionThe skin has only limited powers of absorption. However, some chemicals, cosmetics and drugs can be absorbed in small amounts through its pores.

SensationHeat, cold, pain, pressure and touch receptors are found in the papillary layer of the dermis. Nerves supplying the skin register these basic sensations.

Vitamin D ProductionUVB absorbed through the skin is converted into Vitamin D3 molecules that are metabolised into Vitamin D through processes in the liver and kidneys.

Muscles and Bones of the Head, Neck and Shoulders

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Corrugator

Mentalis

Zygomatic

Occipital

Frontal

Maxilla

Mandible

Parietal

Temporal

Planning and Preparing

Before make-up application, a make-up artist will usually meet with the client, especially if it will be for a special occasion/ event such as a wedding or a photoshoot. During this time, they will prepare a design plan for the make-up This involves looking at:

Budget Products/ Tools/ Equipment Make-Up Design Objective Clients Record Card

It’s important that this consultation is conducted as it provides the make-up artist with essential information that they will use to complete the design. It’s also a chance for the make-up artist to adapt any designs they may have chosen to suit their clients skin type, condition and objective. For example, if a client were to ask for a specific make-up, the make-up artist would use their initial consultation to decide which products they would change/use to suit the skin type and decide if the make-up style would suit their skin condition or need to be changed too. These consultations, provide the make-up artist and client with a design plan which can then be used in future treatments and developed using the client’s final thoughts after make-up application, making it more successful and cost efficient.

To receive the information they need, make-up artists will use a range of consultation techniques. These include:

Manual investigation Visual Investigation Listening to the Clients requirements for design Understanding client expectations Using Consultation form as reference

Once they have conducted the initial consultation with the client, the make-up artist will have a budget which they can work to. This budget is important as it is used to buy suitable products/ tools and equipment to complete the design objective to the satisfaction of the client. This budget may also be used to pay the make-up artist’s wage and so it’s essential they are setting a suitable budget to accommodate all their needs.

After Make-Up Application, it is common practice for a Make-Up artist and the client to complete an evaluation form. This is often attached to the initial Design Plan and used to reflect on the good and bad points of the make-up. This improves the make-up and the artist in terms of professionalism, cost effectiveness etc.

Providing the Client with instructions

Sometimes, Make-Up artists will provide their clients with instructions on how to complete the make-up that is being applied to them, there are several reasons that this is effective:

The client is more likely to return to a make-up artist that can provide them with instructions on how to complete their make-up at home.

It provides the client with reassurance that the artist is skilled and knows what they are doing. It is also good practice for the make-up artist as it allows them to reflect on the make-up process and then

develop this to make it more successful for future use.

Instruction on make-up can be given in visual, verbal, manual or written form. For example, a make-up artist could perform a demonstration on a client, whilst verbally guiding them, another client could watch this demonstration whilst being supplied with a handout with the step by step instructions on them. This would cover a wide range of learning styles and ensure the client understands the make-up instruction clearly.

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Setting up yourself, your work area and your client

Before you start applying make-up you also need to prepare your work area, yourself and your client. This ensures that the treatment goes to plan.

Work Area Preparation checks

Clean and Hygienic Height adjustable chair Good lighting Space is well ventilated No loud or distracting noises Suitable temperature Good ambience (possibly low music) No trailing wires No obstructions Tools/ Equipment and products are all easily accessible

Client checks

Protect the clients clothing Ensure client comfort Consider a private make-up area Ensure modesty Client should be positioned correctly.

Checks to perform on yourself

Ensure a professional appearance: no jewellery, hair tied back, washed hands Personal Hygiene and cleanliness Closed footwear and correct uniform. Light make-up with short clean nails Cover any cuts/ abrasions or piercings (remove where possible) Polite and friendly manner Positive attitude Open Body Language

Skin Analysis

Make-up Artists will often conduct a Skin Analysis as part of their client preparation. This is usually carried out using a magnifying lamp, during which the client’s eyes will be covered/ protected and the Artist will check all areas of the face and neck for their skin type, skin conditions and characteristics. They record the results on a record card/ treatment plan and decide on the most suitable treatment using appropriate products. The purpose of this is to prevent worsening any pre-existing conditions and allow the artist to provide suitable aftercare advice for any future treatment needs.

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Make-Up Application

Throughout a make-up artists career, they will come across a wide range of products that are made to change the appearance of the clients face and sometimes even improve the quality of their skin. It’s important that every make-up artist knows what each product is used for and how to use it before they can begin applying make-up to a client.

Product What is it used for? How is it used?

Cleanser For cleaning the face of any make-up or impurities on the skin

Applied using effleurage movements, removed with damp cotton wool

Toner For removing excess cleanser and preparing the skin for application

Applied using effleurage movements, removed with damp cotton wool

Moisturiser Gives a good base for make-up and hydrates the skin

Applied using effleurage movements, in an upward direction

Primer Often used before make-up application as a base layer

Applied over the face where needed using cotton pads, brushes or fingers

Foundation Coloured liquid or powder used to even the skin tone on the face

Brush/sponge applied to the centre of the face and blended out to the sides of the face

Concealer Used to cover any imperfections on the skin

Stick compact/ liquid or brush application and blended with stippling action

Blusher Adds warmth and contour to the face for a natural look

Cream applied with sponge or powder is applied with a brush

Eyeshadow Used as a decorative addition to add interest to the make-up

Cream applied with sponge or powder is applied with a brush or disposable applicator

Mascara When applied to lashes, enhances or elongates them whilst also colouring

Disposable mascara wand for each entry into mascara container

Eye Pencil Used for definition around the eyes Must be sharpened before application and applied to the eyes

Lip Pencil Used for definition around the lips and to prevent lipstick from bleeding out

Must be sharpened before application and applied to the lips

Liquid Liner Defines the eyes with a line across the lash line

Disposable fine brush for each entry into liquid liner container

Lipstick Gives the lip colour Cut out method for hygiene, clean sterile brush or disposable brush for application

Lip-gloss Adds shine to the lips Cut out method for hygiene, clean sterile brush or disposable brush for application

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Make-Up Application

Throughout the make-up application, the artist will be following a range of Health and Safety working practices which can include (but are not limited to)

Cleaning up spillages Reporting slippery surfaces Removing/reporting obstacles Sterilising/ disinfecting tools/equipment/ work surfaces and Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Ensuring correct posture

It’s important that the client is positioned correctly throughout the treatment as this allows them to receive the maximum benefit from the treatment and means that the delivers the appropriate techniques. It also ensures that the Make-Up artist does not suffer from Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI) and can perform regular visual checks to observe the make-up from another angle. Positioning the Client correctly will ensure client comfort and maintain modesty.

After Make-Up Application

Once the make-up artist has applied the make-up, the client and themselves will often fill in an evaluation form that allows them to reflect on the work they have completed. They can record this evaluation in different forms such as:

Using photo imagery Written Evaluation form Client Record Card/ Treatment form As a video to capture all angles of the make-up

Aftercare Advice is also provided to the client and is split into 3 categories which are:

Skin Care Advice Longevity and Removal Recommended Retail Products.

Skin Care advice differs, depending on your skin type, condition and any pre-existing medical conditions. The most common Skincare advice for each skin type is:

Skin Type Aftercare Advice

Oily Cleanse and tone twice a day with a gel cleanser and a witch Hazel based Toner, moisturise once a day with a light moisturiser.

Dry Cleanse and tone twice a day using a cream cleanser and a rose water toner, moisturise throughout the day using a nourishing moisturiser

Combination Cleanse and tone twice a day using Skincare products designed for Combination Skin and apply moisturiser at least once a day all over and as needed on the dry areas.

Normal Cleanse, tone and moisturise twice a day using suitable products such as cream cleansers or products designed for sensitive skin.

To ensure longevity of the make-up- dependent on the style, a make-up artist will often suggest that the client uses a primer before application and a finishing powder or a sealing spray to lock in the products afterwards. They will also suggest that the client re-applies make-up as necessary. It is essential that the client avoids any Environmental conditions such as cold or wet weather that could move their make-up and in turn also avoids any hot weather which could cause perspiration and move the make-up. They should remove their make-up by using the cleanse, tone and moisturise method.

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