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GUARINO Detroit dining story 010516 A
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MORE RECIPES Five-Spice Steak E2 Tofu Scramble With Salsa Cruda E2 Morning Glory Baked Oatmeal E2, plus more at washingtonpost.com/recipes CHAT We answer questions at noon today: live.washingtonpost.com KLMNO Food WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 6 , 2016 . WASHINGTONPOST.COM/FOOD MG VA PG EE E 5 FOR THE NEW YEAR Nourish columnist Ellie Krieger shares a week’s worth of favorites from her new cookbook. E6 BY MARK GUARINO Special to The Washington Post V eteran Detroiters always knew their city was a meat-and-potatoes town. To find more-eclectic cui- sine meant doing what most people downtown did after work: Leave. No more. Detroit is in the midst of a culinary transformation. Rock-bottom housing stock and an emerging generation of young restaurateurs and chefs settling in to experiment have brought new restaurants, breweries, tasting rooms, cocktail bars, pop-up events and quirky lunch spots promising nutritious food — in neighborhoods where the only option to eat had previously been fast food. Keeping up with launches is now a sport in this rebounding city, which over the past decade survived a government bailout of two of its three major car companies, the largest municipal bankruptcy in U.S. history and the shuttling of a recent mayor, Kwame Kilpatrick, to federal prison. “Now people are excited,” says Dennis Archer Jr., part owner of Central Kitchen + Bar, a bustling gastropub facing Cadillac Square downtown. “Before, when people would visit, it would be for the auto show or a game. Checking out the Detroit food scene was not a priority. Now it’s on their agenda.” The lunchtime crowd at Rose’s Fine Food on the city’s east side could be a cross-section of Detroit: Professionals, day laborers, tourists, hipsters and seniors sit at counters and DETROIT CONTINUED ON E4 From bankrupt to bustling As Detroit’s recovery continues, cheap real estate and urban farming help spark a surge in new restaurants BY TAMAR HASPEL AND MARION NESTLE Special to The Washington Post Go through the fine print of the omnibus spending bill just passed by Congress, and you’ll see that the 2015 Dietary Guidelines, scheduled for release in — you guessed it — 2015, have been pushed out to 2016. You wouldn’t think that the government’s ef- forts, every five years, to help Americans eat more healthfully would turn into a political football. But when its appointed scientists reviewed the literature on meat and health, for example, they did some- thing quite radical. They said what they meant with no equivocations: Americans should eat less meat. As if that were not radical enough — previous committees had pussyfooted with such euphemisms as “choose lean meats to reduce saturated fat” — this DIETARY CONTINUED ON E3 Six rogue rules for a year of healthful eating For director Steven Soder- bergh, the bottle of sin- gani — presented to him in 2007 by the Bolivian casting director for his movie “Che” — was the booze equivalent of the conversion of Saul on the road to Damascus. Usually a vodka-rocks guy, Soderbergh started drinking and was smitten. He hunted down the giver with questions, “and he started giving me the narrative”: that singani has been made for hundreds of years, that it’s made from one particu- lar grape and only in one particular area of Bolivia. “Which was intriguing, but at the time my main concern was, ‘Can you get me enough of this stuff to get me through the shoot?’ ” Surprisingly, there wasn’t a clear an- swer to his question. At the time, “as it turned out, they didn’t export it.” The drink that was a bolt from the blue for Soderbergh is no surprise to the millions of Bolivians who consider sin- gani (sin-GAH-nee) virtually the national spirit. For Ramon Escobar, a U.S. foreign service officer whose family is Bolivian Meet singani, Bolivia’s best-kept secret RECIPES l Chufly E5 l Singroni pictured above, E5 Spirits M. CARRIE ALLAN PHOTOS BY SALWAN GEORGES FOR THE WASHINGTON POST TOP: Two James Spirits, which bills itself as Detroit’s first legal distillery since Prohibition, operates a lively tasting room in a former doughnut factory in Corktown. ABOVE: Modern-French restaurant Antietam opened in two renovated buildings in the city’s Eastern Market neighborhood. No sign marks the spot; the owner is counting on curious diners to find him. and who says he has been drinking it “since before I was supposed to,” singani is something special: a native Bolivian spirit whose success in the larger interna- tional market could make an enormous difference to the country it hails from. “Every hectare of grapes that’s plant- ed in Bolivia lifts a family out of extreme poverty,” says Escobar. “The grapes are grown by Bolivians, picked by Bolivians, fermented into wine by Bolivians, dis- tilled into spirit by Bolivians. It’s bottled by Bolivians in bottles that are made by SPIRITS CONTINUED ON E5 DEB LINDSEY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST QUENTIN BACON
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Transcript of GUARINO Detroit dining story 010516 A
MORE RECIPES Five-SpiceSteak E2 Tofu Scramble With SalsaCruda E2 Morning Glory BakedOatmeal E2, plus more atwashingtonpost.com/recipesCHAT We answer questions at noontoday: live.washingtonpost.com
KLMNO
FoodWEDNESDAY, JANUARY 6, 2016 . WASHINGTONPOST.COM/FOOD MG VA PG EE E
5 FOR THE NEW YEAR
Nourish columnist EllieKrieger shares a week’sworth of favorites from hernew cookbook. E6
BY MARK GUARINOSpecial to The Washington Post
Veteran Detroiters always knew their city was ameat-and-potatoes town. To find more-eclectic cui-sine meant doing what most people downtown didafter work: Leave.
No more. Detroit is in the midst of a culinarytransformation. Rock-bottom housing stock and an emerginggeneration of young restaurateurs and chefs settling in toexperiment have brought new restaurants, breweries, tastingrooms, cocktail bars, pop-up events and quirky lunch spotspromising nutritious food — in neighborhoods where the onlyoption to eat had previously been fast food. Keeping up withlaunches is now a sport in this rebounding city, which over thepast decade survived a government bailout of two of its threemajor car companies, the largest municipal bankruptcy in U.S.history and the shuttling of a recent mayor, Kwame Kilpatrick,to federal prison.
“Now people are excited,” says Dennis Archer Jr., part ownerof Central Kitchen + Bar, a bustling gastropub facing CadillacSquare downtown. “Before, when people would visit, it wouldbe for the auto show or a game. Checking out the Detroit foodscene was not a priority. Now it’s on their agenda.”
The lunchtime crowd at Rose’s Fine Food on the city’s eastside could be a cross-section of Detroit: Professionals, daylaborers, tourists, hipsters and seniors sit at counters and
DETROIT CONTINUED ON E4
From bankrupt to bustlingAs Detroit’s recovery continues,
cheap real estate and urban farminghelp spark a surge in new restaurants
BY TAMAR HASPELAND MARION NESTLE
Special to The Washington Post
Gothroughthefineprintoftheomnibusspending bill just passed by Congress, andyou’ll see that the 2015 Dietary Guidelines,scheduled for release in—youguessed it—2015, have been pushed out to 2016. Youwouldn’t think that the government’s ef-forts, every five years, to help Americanseat more healthfully would turn into apolitical football. But when its appointedscientists reviewed the literature on meatand health, for example, they did some-thing quite radical. They said what theymeant with no equivocations: Americansshould eat less meat.
As if that were not radical enough —previous committees had pussyfootedwith such euphemisms as “choose leanmeats to reduce saturated fat” — this
DIETARY CONTINUED ON E3
Six rogue rulesfor a year ofhealthful eating
For director Steven Soder-bergh, the bottle of sin-gani — presented to himin 2007 by the Boliviancasting director for hismovie “Che” — was the
booze equivalent of the conversion ofSaul on the road to Damascus.
Usually a vodka-rocks guy, Soderberghstarted drinking and was smitten. Hehunted down the giver with questions,“and he started giving me the narrative”:that singani has been made for hundredsof years, that it’s made from one particu-lar grape and only in one particular areaof Bolivia. “Which was intriguing, but atthe time my main concern was, ‘Can youget me enough of this stuff to get methrough the shoot?’ ”
Surprisingly, there wasn’t a clear an-swer to his question. At the time, “as itturned out, they didn’t export it.”
The drink that was a bolt from the bluefor Soderbergh is no surprise to themillions of Bolivians who consider sin-gani (sin-GAH-nee) virtually the nationalspirit. For Ramon Escobar, a U.S. foreignservice officer whose family is Bolivian
Meet singani, Bolivia’s best-kept secret
RECIPESlChufly E5lSingroni pictured above, E5
SpiritsM. CARRIEALLAN
PHOTOS BY SALWAN GEORGES FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
TOP: Two James Spirits, which bills itself as Detroit’s first legal distillery since Prohibition, operates a lively tasting room in aformer doughnut factory in Corktown. ABOVE: Modern-French restaurant Antietam opened in two renovated buildings in thecity’s Eastern Market neighborhood. No sign marks the spot; the owner is counting on curious diners to find him.
and who says he has been drinking it“since before I was supposed to,” singaniis something special: a native Bolivianspirit whose success in the larger interna-tional market could make an enormous
difference to the country it hails from.“Every hectare of grapes that’s plant-
ed in Bolivia lifts a family out of extremepoverty,” says Escobar. “The grapes aregrown by Bolivians, picked by Bolivians,fermented into wine by Bolivians, dis-tilled into spirit by Bolivians. It’s bottledby Bolivians in bottles that are made by
SPIRITS CONTINUED ON E5
DEB LINDSEY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
QUENTIN BACON
