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GTW Developments Ltd.
104 Series splicers
GTW Developments Ltd., Unit 1, Pavilion Industrial Estate, Pontypool, UK, NP4 6NF
Tel. +44 1495 755661 Fax. +44 1495 752619
Web: www.airbondsplicer.com
Email: [email protected]
© GTW Developments Ltd., 1997 - 2012 No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced, by means electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any otherwise without the prior permission of GTW Developments Ltd. The Pentwyn Splicers logo is a registered trade mark, property of GTW Developments Ltd.
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Contents
Getting started 3
• Model 104 – getting started 4
• Making an ends-together splice 6
• Optimising splicing performance – knife timing 7
• Important maintenance information 8
Model 104 – general product information 9
• 104 splicers – general 10
• Typical applications (all models) 11
• 104 Series splicers – model range 12
Maintenance and repair 17
• Maintenance - introduction 18
• Splicing chamber – removal and refitting 19
• Pad assembly – removal, maintenance and refitting 20
• Knife assembly – removal, maintenance and refitting 24
• Knife drive – removal, maintenance and refitting 28
• Trigger assembly – removal and refitting 31
APPENDICES:
1. Troubleshooting 34
2. Compressed air 37
3. Yarn clamp side cheek – dismantling and reassembly 40
4. Parts list 44
5. Exploded diagram 47
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Getting started
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Model 104 - getting started
This section is all you really need to get started operating the splicer. The rest of the
manual deals with maintenance, and with details of products; these sections will not be
needed immediately.
Remove all packaging. For each splicer, you will have the appropriate splicing chamber – which will
usually already be fitted.
Depending on what you have ordered, you will have some or all of the following:
• Splicer
• Additional splicing chamber(s)
• Optional carrying strap
• Optional buckle
• Optional hanger and screws
• Optional hanging clip
If they have been supplied, place the buckle and strap over the air union, before connecting the
splicer to the air supply. The operator may then loop the strap round his wrist to reduce the
likelihood of the splicer being dropped.
It may be useful to have a fixed place to store the splicer temporarily when the operator has finished.
If it has been supplied, bolt the hanging clip to a convenient spot on a machine. Fix the hanger to
the back of the splicer, using the screws provided. (This operation will involve the removal and
replacement of the splicing chamber). The splicer can then be placed in the hanging clip when not
in use. This reduces the likelihood of the splicer being dropped and damaged in service.
Connect the splicer to an air line, usual pressure around 6 bar. (See Appendix 2 for
compressed air Health and Safety issues)
Under normal circumstances, the line pressure should be around 6 bar. The line should preferably
be fitted with a pressure regulator so that adjustment may be made to suit local needs.
• Hold the splicer with the trigger button facing the body.
• Look down into the splicer and press the trigger with the thumb.
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• See the knives close
• See the pad move until it hits the chamber
• Listen for the air blast
Look at the trigger button. The locking screw on the top of the button will NOT be tight, so the
adjuster wheel can be moved. Move the adjuster wheel. See the positions marked on the adjuster
wheel, from 0 to 6.
• Set wheel to position 0. Press trigger slowly. See the knives close BEFORE the air blast
comes on.
• Set wheel to position 6. Press trigger slowly. See the knives close AFTER the air blast
comes on.
This wheel will be used to optimise the performance of the splicer, for any particular yarn.
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Making an ends-together splice
Figure 1. First stage: place yarns in splicer
The yarns enter the splicer together, here seen from the
right-hand side. The yarns enter via the yarn entry
side plate, and leave via the yarn exit side plate.
Figure 2.
The splicer seen from the exit side. In some variants
of the Model 104, the configuration on the exit side
includes an adjustable yarn clamp; other variants have
a plain exit plate, without a yarn clamp.
Figure 3. Second stage: make the splice
Press the trigger in one swift, single movement. Hold
the trigger until the chosen blast period has elapsed, or
until the fully-formed splice escapes spontaneously from
the chamber. Withdraw the completed splice; the
two yarns will be tightly intermingled over about 15
mm. Once the yarns have been withdrawn, it will be
necessary to part them, and to open up the structure.
With the yarns once more in a single line, the
characteristic "tail" of the ends-together splice will
appear, roughly at right-angles to the line of the yarns.
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Optimising splicing performance - knife timing
All splicers of the 104 range are capable of dealing with a wide range of yarn counts. The splicer
requires fewer chambers than most in order to cover its operating range. One reason for this
flexibility is the technology of the splicing chamber; another reason relates to the special adjuster
built into the trigger. The function of the adjuster radically affects the splicer performance. This
function needs to be explained, if the splicer is to be used at maximum efficiency.
The adjustment has been made as simple as possible; a small wheel in the trigger button is marked
with numbers from 0 to 6 which may be “dialled up” according to the user's needs.
Figure 4.
At setting 0, the knives cut soon after the trigger is
pressed - just before the chamber blast.
At setting 3, the knife cut is simultaneous with the
chamber blast.
At setting 6, the knives cut only after the main chamber
blast has already started
The adjuster wheel should be used to optimise the performance of the splicer for a particular
application. The best setting for a given application should be found by trial-and-error. Once the
best operating position has been found, the wheel then can be secured with a small locking screw
which is built into the top surface of the trigger button. The performance of the splicer should then
remain consistent.
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Important maintenance information
Apart from accidental damage, and the occasional replacement of cutters, the Model 104
requires very little attention. However, one aspect of maintenance should NEVER be
neglected. Both the piston which actuates the chamber pad and the piston which
actuates the cutters need regular lubrication. The frequency of lubrication depends upon
the nature of the factory environment and the workload on the splicer.
As a general rule, the pistons should be removed and greased with Molykote 111
(available from the company) at least once per month. The service interval should be
reduced if the splicer experiences very heavy work loads. The removal of these
components is shown in Figures 13 to 18
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Model 104 – general product information
Page 10 of 47
104 Series splicers – general
The Model 104 has its origins in the earlier Model 101 and 102 splicers. For some years, the 101
and 102 – very similar to each other in form and function – have been used world-wide, especially in
the carpet industry. The 101 has some new features which make it unusually powerful, and
economical in use. However, the Model 101 has a very simple manual cutting system, and some
users expressed a wish for automatic cutters. This led to the Model 104, which has the same
splicing action as the earlier products, but which incorporates automatic cutters.
Figure 5.
Like the Model 101, 104 Series splicers make a joint of
the “ends-together” form. This type of splice does not
have as good an appearance as a splice of the “ends-
opposed” form. “Tails” are visible in each joint.
However, the splice is much quicker to make, and is
usually completely satisfactory for carpet processes,
such as tufting, Wilton and Axminster weaving.
Like the 101, the 104 incorporates improved splicing chambers. With a new, adjustable cutting
system fitted, the result was a new splicer which was rather more subtle in its operation than the
Model 101. When the 104 was being developed, the opportunity was taken to incorporate modular
principles of design. The new splicer therefore is available in 24 different forms, to suit different
customer needs. All of the Model 104 series of splicers have a common base unit. Parts are added
to the base unit, to make up the complete splicer assembly; conversion from one type to another is
very simple.
• All 104 splicers have a simple straight-line string-up.
• All have an unusually simple construction.
• Simple construction leads to simple maintenance; the splicer in its basic form can be
completely dismantled and re-assembled in about twenty minutes.
• The splicer has a very strong construction; it resists damage in service very well.
• The splicers contain some new and patented technology, and need a smaller range of
splicing chambers than splicers of earlier generations.
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• The splicer can join S-twist or Z-twist yarns without any modification; it can even splice S-
twist and Z-twist together, or can splice flat yarn to high-twist such as tyre cord.
Typical applications (all models)
Splice format Ends-together
Typical applications Carpet weaving
Carpet tufting
Upholstery
Fancy yarns
Difficult twist direction applications (S twist to Z twist)
Yarns Synthetic continuous filament
Synthetic staple
Wool worsted
Wool/synthetic
Wool
Yarn count, small splicing chamber Nm 10 to to Nm 200
Yarn count, standard chamber Nm 1.5 to Nm 10
Yarn count, large chamber Nm 0.7 to Nm 1.5
Yarn twist direction Any twist level, any twist direction, no modification
needed.
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104 Series splicers – model range
There are 24 splicers in the range, all based upon precisely the same body units.
MODEL DESCRIPTION
12 Splicers fitted with standard, simple side cheeks
1 104 H 104H, 104 with plain long handle
2 104 S 104S, shortened 104 for close-fit mounting to a machine
3 104 B 104B, as 104S, but close-fitted to a moveable carriage
4 104 HW 104HW, as 104H, but fitted with a hanging assembly
5 104 SW 104SW, as 104S, but fitted on the machine with a hanging assembly
6 104 BW 104BW, as 104B, but fitted on the carriage with a hanging assembly
7 104 H RHC 104 H RHC, as 104H, but with special right-hand cut modification
8 104 S RHC 104 S RHC, as 104S, but with special right-hand cut modification
9 104 B RHC 104 B RHC, as 104B, but with special right-hand cut modification
10 104 HW RHC 104HW RHC, as 104HW, but with special right-hand cut modification
11 104 SW RHC 104SW RHC, as 104SW, but with special right-hand cut modification
12 104 BW RHC 104BW RHC, as 104BW, but with special right-hand cut modification
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MODEL DESCRIPTION
12 Splicers with special side cheeks (with yarn clamps)
13 104 HY 104HY, 104 with plain long handle
14 104 SY 104SY, shortened 104 for close-fit mounting to a machine
15 104 BY 104BY, as 104SY, but close-fitted to a moveable carriage
16 104 HWY 104HWY, as 104HY, but fitted with a hanging assembly
17 104 SWY 104SWY, as 104SY, but fitted on the machine with a hanging assembly
18 104 BWY 104BWY, as 104BY, but fitted on the carriage with a hanging assembly
19 104 HY RHC 104 HY RHC, as 104HY, but with special right-hand cut modification
20 104 SY RHC 104 SY RHC, as 104SY, but with special right-hand cut modification
21 104 BY RHC 104 BY RHC, as 104BY, but with special right-hand cut modification
22 104 HWY RHC 104HWY RHC, as 104HWY, but with special right-hand cut modification
23 104 SWY RHC 104SWY RHC, as 104SWY, but with special right-hand cut modification
24 104 BWY RHC 104BWY RHC, as 104BWY, but with special right-hand cut modification
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Figure 6. Model 104 H. Base unit fitted with simple handle, simple side cheek
The 104 H is the simple hand-held splicer; blast time is
controlled by the operator. The picture shows the yarn
exit side, and the black housing which accommodates
the cutters.
This splicer normally has a handle 100 mm long, but it
can be supplied to special order with a handle of any
length to suit the customer. (Some customers use the
Model 104 S – see below - as a hand-held tool.)
Figure 7. Model 104 S. Base unit without handle, simple side cheek
The 104 S is the simplest splicer of the 104 range. It is
very similar to the Model 104 H, but instead of a handle,
it has a simple lower cover. It is designed to be fixed
to a textile machine, and operated in the fixed position.
As noted above, some customers use the Model 104 S
as a hand-held tool.
Figure 8. Model 104 B. Base unit without handle, close-fitted to a carriage running
on a rail, simple side cheek
If the Model 104 S is bolted to a carriage assembly, and
supplied with a carrier rail, it becomes the Model 104 B,
which can run on a rail along the length of a textile
machine. The splicer is supplied with air through a
flexible hose.
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Figure 9. Model 104 HW. Base unit with handle, fitted with hanging assembly
A side view of the Model 104 HW, which is a 104 H
hand-held splicer fitted with a hanging assembly. The
hanger is an alloy wedge-shaped unit, attached to the
rear surface of the splicer. To complete the hanging
assembly, a hanging clip is supplied. Here the hanging
wedge is shown sliding into the clip. It is normal for
the splicer to be supplied with a number of hanging
clips, so that the splicer can be “parked” safely in any
number of chosen locations on a textile machine.
Figure 10. Model 104 SW. Base unit without handle as 104 S, with hanging assembly
This is the Model 104 SW, which is a 104 S, fitted with a
hanging storage assembly. Here the hanging wedge
is shown fully fitted into the clip. Usually, the splicer is
supplied with a number of hanging clips, so that it can
be mounted in any number of chosen locations. This
configuration makes the simple 104 S splicer more
flexible. When mounted in its hanging clip, it can be
used as a fixed splicer, but can be moved simply to
another hanging clip, in another fixed position when needed.
Figure 11. Model 104 BW. Base unit, hanger on a carriage assembly, to run on a rail
The flexibility of the Model 104 SW is here applied to
the rail-mounted application. A number of machines
can be fitted with rails and carriages, and the 104 BW
can simply be lifted out of one carriage assembly, and
carried to another – back in service, on another
machine, in a few seconds.
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The remaining eighteen models of the range are derived from the six examples shown
above. They have identical functions, but have detail design modifications, as specified
in the product tables on pages 12 and 13.
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Maintenance and repair
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Maintenance - introduction
The 104 has been designed to accomplish its greater variety of functions in the simplest manner
possible - great attention has been paid to durability, and ease of maintenance. The base splicer of
the 104 range has nine sub-assemblies, mounted on a simple body, through which air-ways conduct
the compressed air for the splicing action.
1. Trigger. Pressing the trigger initiates the splicing operation.
2. Air valve - blast. When the trigger is pressed, it moves the valve, allowing compressed air to
pass into the main splicer body for splicing.
3. Air valve - knife. When the trigger is pressed, it moves the valve, allowing compressed air to
pass into the main splicer body for cutting of the waste yarn ends.
4. Pad. When the air valve - blast begins to move, it allows compressed air to close the pad onto
the surface of the splicing chamber, prior to the splicing operation.
5. Splicing chamber. This has a profiled recess on the front face which, with the closed pad,
forms the volume in which the splice is formed. Movement of the air valve allows compressed air to
enter the chamber, to form the splice.
6. Side plates. The side plates provide a means of guiding the yarn across the splicing chamber.
7. Extension Block. This provides extra distance between the knife and splicing chamber
improving strength and consistency of the splice.
8. Yarn clamps. Yarn clamps are fitted to some of the 104 range. They are attached to the side
plate on the exit side of the splicing chamber; they restrain the yarns, holding them in the correct
position for the splicing operation.
9. Knives. Two scissor-knives are fitted, on the exit side of the splicing chamber. These cut off
waste yarn during the splicing operation.
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Splicing chamber - removal and refitting
WARNING:
If the splicing chamber is removed while the splicer is connected to the air supply, DO
NOT press the trigger; the pad will be blown out of the main bore. This will almost
certainly damage the pad spring, and entail some remedial work
Figure 12.
To release the splicing chamber, remove the single
fixing screw from the rear of the splicer body. The
chamber can then be lifted clear of the body.
In the case of the rail mounted splicer, an access hole
for the screw is provided in the carriage assembly. In
the case of the fixed splicer, the body must be released
from the machine to which it is mounted, to give access
to the screw. If the splicer is fitted with a hanger, the splicing chamber securing screw is accessible
through the hanger.
Replacement is the reverse of removal. Apply a little thread-locking adhesive to the threads of the
fixing screw before reassembly. Before finally tightening the screw, take care to ensure that the
chamber is exactly positioned and aligned in the splicer body.
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Pad assembly - removal, maintenance, refitting
After a period of service, especially if lubrication disciplines have been neglected, the chamber pad
movement may become slow, or the pad may jam completely in its bore. At this point, it will be
wise to remove the pad assembly for some remedial action. The pad may merely need to be
lubricated, or the assembly may be damaged in some way.
Figure 13. Before work - general
This illustration shows all the sealing plugs, screws and
threaded holes visible on the front surface of the splicer.
Two large-bore plugs can be seen in the body of the
splicer, roughly along the centre line. On the left side
of the picture is the upper sealing plug, Item 1102. On
the right is the lower sealing plug, Item 1104. Each
plug has an M3 threaded hole; the holes in the sealing
plugs simplify the dismantling process.
Figure 14. Sealing plug securing screws
Here, the splicer is seen from the side, exposing the
small screws which secure the sealing plugs. The two
large bore plugs, shown in Fig. 13, are each secured by
two small grub-screws, one on each side of the splicer -
four screws in all. The threaded holes which
accommodate the pair on the left-hand side of the
splicer can be seen quite clearly.
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Figure 15. Undo plug screws
This picture shows the first stage in the removal of the
upper sealing plug. The splicer has two pistons and
associated plugs. Each plug is secured by a small
grub-screw in the side of the splicer. The upper plug is
released by loosening the grub-screw, using a hexagon
wrench. The screw on the other side of the splicer is
treated similarly.
Figure 16. Top plug removal
This photo shows the start of the removal of the top
plug which is part of the chamber-pad sub-assembly.
Once the small securing screws have been loosened,
the top plug and chamber pad sub-assembly can be
removed. An M3 screw is introduced into the threaded
hole in the plug; the plug and chamber pad sub-
assembly can then be withdrawn.
Figure 17. Top plug removal
This illustration shows the last stage of removing the
chamber pad/plug sub-assembly. With the upper plug
released, by the removal of the two small grub-screws,
and freed by using an M3 screw, the plug and chamber
pad sub-assembly is simply removed as one unit.
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Figure 18. Plug and chamber pad assembly
The illustration shows the sub-assembly carrying the
chamber pad, separated from the splicer body. At the
top is a pointer. Projecting from the left is the screw
used to extract the assembly. There are three parts:
Chamber pad, thick disk with O-ring, to the right.
Pad spring, opposite the pointer.
Plug, the largest element, to the left, which also has an
O-ring. The spring is screwed and glued into both the
plug and the chamber pad.
Maintenance of the plug/pad assembly.
If the assembly appears to be sound, then lubrication should suffice. Grease the O-ring with a small
amount of Molykote 111, and replace the assembly, by reversing the dismantling procedure.
If there is sign of damage (usually a misaligned or rusty pad spring), then the assembly should be
dismantled and rebuilt. The individual parts may be obtained from GTW Developments Ltd;
alternatively the complete assembly can be ordered as Item Number 110201A.
Proceed as follows:
1. The pad is tethered to the upper sealing plug by an extension spring; the spring is screwed
into the plug, and the pad is screwed to the spring. Dismantle the assembly by unscrewing
the components. Unless it is clearly perfect, discard the spring, and use a new one.
Thoroughly clean and degrease the threads in the pad and the plug.
2. Before final assembly, it is necessary to ensure that the components will fit together
correctly. It is recommended that the components be "dry-assembled". Screw the spring
into the plug until four or five coils of the spring remain exposed. Screw the pad onto the
spring for a few turns. Check that the rear face of the pad is parallel to the plug, and that
the gap between pad and plug is 1.5 to 2.0 mm. If these two conditions cannot be met,
then repeat the process of cleaning and degreasing the threads. When the conditions are
met, proceed to final assembly, using adhesive.
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3. Apply a drop of Loctite Structural Adhesive 326 to the coils of one end of the spring. Screw
the spring into the cap until four or five coils of the spring remain exposed. Allow the
adhesive to cure for approximately 30 minutes. Apply more adhesive to the exposed coils,
and screw the pad onto the spring. Once more, check that the rear face of the pad is
parallel to the cap, and that the gap between pad and plug is 1.5 to 2.0 mm. Leave to cure
for a further 30 minutes.
4. Lightly smear the pad and O-ring with Molykote grease, and reassemble, by reversing the
order of dismantling.
Page 24 of 47
Knife assembly - removal, maintenance, refitting
On each side of the splicer is a knife assembly, consisting of a pair of knives, operating in a scissor
action. Each assembly has a fixed knife and a moving knife. The fixed knife is screwed to the body
of the splicer, and the moving knife is mounted close to the fixed knife, and is capable of being
driven through a small arc, on a pivot pin. This knife is driven by a peg which projects through the
splicer body.
Figure 19. The simple splicer side-cheek – removal
This illustration shows a standard side cheek, together
with its steel side-plate, which also functions as a yarn
guide plate; the standard side cheek is merely an
assembly for shrouding the splicer knives, and it carries
no additional parts. The illustration shows the first
screw being released using a screwdriver.
Figure 20. The simple splicer side-cheek – remove yarn guide plate exit side
Removal of the securing screw allows the side-plate to
be withdrawn.
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Figure 21. The more complex splicer side-cheek – fitted with yarn clamp
This illustration shows the more complex version of
side-cheek, which is a sub-assembly, fitted with a yarn
clamp. Like the standard side cheek, this cheek is also
fitted to the side of the splicer body using four screws.
Note the small rectangular hole in the yarn exit side
plate; the function of the hole is to vent air to reduce
fibre build-up in the yarn clamp assembly. This side
cheek is removed in exactly the same way, by releasing
the four countersunk screws.
It may prove necessary to dismantle the side cheek sub-assembly; this process is described in
Appendix 3.
Figure 22. Knife assembly in splicer
This illustration shows the splicer, after removal of the
side cheek assembly from the splicer body. The knife
assembly is now accessible; it consists of a pair of
knives, one fixed and one moving. Note the knife drive
shaft, a rod just visible at the bottom of the moving
knife. Note the circlip and three-legged spring, which
together apply a compressive force to the knife
assembly
Figure 23. Extension block removal (part 1)
This illustration shows the splicer, after removal of the
side cheek assembly from the splicer body. The knife
assembly and extension block is now accessible. Also
this illustration shows the start of the extension block
removal procedure – the upper securing screw is being
released.
Page 26 of 47
Figure 24. Knife assembly removal
The knife assembly is secured to the splicer body by
two small screws. The illustration shows the start of
the knife assembly removal procedure – the upper
securing screw is being released.
Figure 25. Extension block removal (part 2)
After the knife assembly is removed the extension block
can be removed. The illustration shows the start of the
extension block removal procedure.
Figure 26. Knife assembly and extension block removed
This illustration shows the splicer once the knife
assembly and extension block has been removed from
the body. The end of the knife drive shaft can be seen
projecting slightly from the splicer body. Over the end
of the knife drive shaft is fitted a spacer washer. The
spacer imparts a slight scissor angle to the knives. The
knife pivot remains in place, coming free only when the
fixed knife is removed.
Page 27 of 47
Figure 27. Knife assembly – detail
This illustration shows the outer side of the knife
assembly after removal from the 104 body. The
assembly comprises: fixed knife, moving knife, circlip,
pivot pin, and three-legged spring.
Figure 28. Knife assembly – pivot pin
This illustration shows the inner side of the knife
assembly. The view is shown so that the knife pivot
pin can be seen.
The knife assembly can be dismantled by removing the
securing circlip, either by the sideways push of a small
screwdriver, or by the use of a special circlip pliers.
Reassembly
Reassembly is the reverse process.
1. Check the condition of the drive peg. It is made of hardened steel, but may have worn after
extended service. If its diameter has reduced, then the movement of the knife will be
reduced.
2. Check the condition of the spacer. If it is damaged, replace it. The spacer defines the
small scissor angle of the knives.
3. The three-legged spring has a small extension to one of its legs. This should be located in a
small hole in the moving knife.
4. If the yarn clamp pressure screws were moved while removing the clamp assembly, re-set
the clamps.
Page 28 of 47
Knife drive - removal, maintenance, refitting
Removal
The knives are driven through a simple mechanism by the piston in the upper bore. Air to this
piston is controlled by the left-hand air valve. At a point in the travel of the trigger, the knife air
valve allows air into the upper bore. The piston is driven forward, carrying with it the shaft, whose
two ends project from the splicer body, to drive the knives. Removing the knife drive assembly
involves removing the shaft and the drive piston.
Figure 29. Removal of lower sealing plug
This illustration shows the first stages of the removal of
the lower sealing plug, under which is accommodated
the knife actuating piston. The two small securing
grub-screws are loosened using a hexagon wrench (the
picture shows the screw on the right-hand side being
released) With the small screws released, the plug can
be removed, but it is not possible to grip the plug with
the fingers.
Figure 30. Removal of lower sealing plug
The plug has been provided with a threaded hole, which
may be size M3 or M4, depending on date of
manufacture of the splicer. Screw in a length of
threaded rod, or a suitable screw. Using the threaded
rod, gently withdraw the lower sealing plug, together
with its O-ring.
Page 29 of 47
Figure 31. Knife piston plug removal
This frame shows the removal of the knife piston plug.
With the securing screws loosened, and the M3 screw in
place, the plug can be withdrawn. Once the plug has
been removed, the knife actuating piston will be clearly
visible inside the lower bore.
Figure 32. Unlock knife drive shaft
It is necessary to remove the knife drive shaft before
the knife drive piston can be removed. This illustration
shows the first step in the release of the knife drive
shaft. The knife drive shaft passes through a hole in
the knife drive piston, and is secured in the piston by a
small grub-screw. To release the knife drive shaft,
undo the screw, using a hexagon wrench as shown.
Figure 33. Remove knife drive shaft
This picture shows the final stage of the removal of the
knife shaft. The last internal components of the splicer
body to be removed are the knife drive piston and the
knife drive shaft. The knife shaft must be removed
first. After the shaft has been released, the shaft can
be pushed out through the side of the body as shown.
Once the shaft has been removed, the drive piston can
be withdrawn.
Page 30 of 47
Figure 34. Remove knife drive piston
The final component to be removed is the knife drive
piston.
Removal of the knife drive shaft leaves the drive piston
completely free to move in the lower bore. Use a piece
of M4 threaded rod, or a long M4 screw, to remove the
piston. Turn the screw a few times, so that it enters
the threaded hole in the piston. Pull out the screw,
and, with it, the piston.
Figure 35. Knife drive piston assembly
This photograph shows the knife drive piston,
completely removed from the splicer. Note that the M4
screw remains attached to the piston, after being used
to withdraw the component from the splicer. The
piston return spring also remains attached, at the left of
the frame. Note the hole through which the knife drive
shaft passes. Note the two sealing O-rings.
Reassembly
Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling process. Note the following:
• Apply a small amount of Molykote grease to the piston before inserting it into the splicer
body.
• Ensure that the holes in the drive piston line up with the corresponding holes in the splicer
body, to allow easy fitting of the shaft.
• Line up the shaft so that it projects equally on either side of the splicer body.
• Be sure to re-tighten the grub-screw which fixes the peg in the piston.
• Lightly grease the projecting tips of the shaft.
Page 31 of 47
9.6. Trigger assembly, valves: removal, refitting
The trigger assembly on the Model 104 is more complex than it seems, because the trigger does not
work in a fixed relationship to the actuating valves. The trigger assembly incorporates some
features which relate to the advanced performance of the splicer. The use of these elements of the
trigger assembly has been described in another section of this manual, dealing with operation.
Figure 36. Removal of trigger button
This illustration shows first stage of removing the trigger
button. The trigger button and the trigger housing can
be seen. The trigger button is secured to the main air
blast valve by a small screw, which passes through the
base of the button. The screw is released by using a
hexagon wrench as shown. The button is lifted off,
complete with the brass knife adjuster wheel.
Figure 37. Trigger off; valves exposed
This frame shows the trigger housing and valves, after
removal of the button. The ends of the two main air-
valves can be seen projecting from the recess in the
trigger housing. Clearly visible inside the recess are
two hexagon screws; these screws attach the trigger
housing to the main splicer body, and retain the air
valves.
Page 32 of 47
Figure 38. Release trigger housing
This illustration shows the first stage in the removal of
the black trigger housing. The picture shows the two
main air valves. The longer valve, at right, controls the
main splicer blast The shorter valve, at left, controls
the timing of the knife cut. The trigger housing is
released by removing the two socket head screws, The
picture shows a hexagon wrench releasing the first of
the screws.
Figure 39. Exposure of air valves
This illustration shows the two air valves, just before
removal from the splicer. At this stage, the trigger and
trigger housing have been removed. The different
lengths of the two valves can be seen clearly in the
picture. The valves can now be removed. This is
done simply by pulling upward. After the valves are
removed, the internal components (air shells and O-
rings) can be extracted.
Figure 40. Valve assemblies
This photograph shows the two valves which fit inside
the main splicer body. The upper, shorter valve
controls the knife timing; the lower valve controls the
chamber pad and the main air blast. Note the length
difference. Both valves are fitted with springs, which
bear on the inner surface of the splicer body, to return
the valves to the rest position after splicing. Both
valves have the same arrangement of shells and O-
rings. The arrangement is (from right, or deepest in the bore): O-ring, Shell, O-ring, Shell,
Shell, O-ring, Shell, O-ring, Spacer washer.
Page 33 of 47
Refitting
Re-fitting is the reverse of the above. Take particular note of the following:
• The sequence of O-rings and shells should be correct, as shown in the illustration.
• The shells and O-rings should be lightly lubricated with Molykote grease before replacement.
• Since the two valves are different, they should each be fitted in the correct bores.
• When the trigger button is replaced, ensure that its fixing screw enters the small locating
hole in the valve stem.
Page 34 of 47
Appendix 1. Troubleshooting
1) Poor splicing
Trouble with splicers generally takes one of two forms:
• Splicing performance deteriorates without apparent breakage or malfunction
• Pieces break or malfunction
This section is concerned only with splicing performance. If there is no apparent damage to the
splicer, there may still be something subtle, which cannot easily be seen. It will be best, however,
to look at the possible causes which are easy to spot. These include:
Simple checks:
1. Has yarn specification changed markedly? The splicer is very flexible, but it can't do ALL
yarns on one configuration. If the yarn has changed, try adjusting the knife wheel
2. Is the air pressure as it should be?
3. Are there any obstructions in the main air line?
4. Are there any signs of obstruction within the splicer itself? (it has been known for foreign
matter to get into the air-line, and to obstruct the chamber blast hole; this is usually
accompanied by a reduction in the noise level of the blast)
5. Have operating procedures changed?
6. Has the adjusting wheel moved?
7. Are the knives cutting perfectly? Slight deterioration of performance on one side can result
in poor splicing.
2) Sticking pad
Occasionally, a pad may stick because of some form of damage to the internal components, but the
explanation is normally much simpler; a lack of lubrication around the O-rings which seal the pad
assembly, or an extension spring which has come adrift.
Page 35 of 47
Remove the pad assembly. Clean the pad assembly and the surface of the large bore with a small
quantity of light solvent
Examine the pad assembly for signs of damage - particularly a damaged or displaced extension
spring. If there is damage to any of the components, proceed as in the section in the main
text, dealing with the pad.
Examine the surface of the large bore. Minor scuffing - the stuff of normal wear and tear in service -
should be of no consequence. Look closely, to determine whether the bore surface is scratched.
This is a very rare occurrence, usually associated with an earlier rebuild having gone wrong. Minor
scratching can generally be rectified with careful use of a reamer.
When any faults have been eliminated, reassemble as in the main text.
3) Poor cutting
Good performance from the cutting knives is essential for satisfactory splicing efficiency.
Most important; is the yarn simply too big or too tough for the splicer? First, there is a simple
physical limit to the size of what can fit into the knives. Second, certain materials pose big
problems, because of their physical properties. Kevlar, for instance, will blunt standard steel knives
very quickly.
Obviously, all knives will eventually become blunt, even in perfectly normal service. If the poor
cutting performance is simply a matter of long service, new cutters can be purchased from GTW
Developments Ltd. Alternatively, provided that the knives have not worn too far, we can offer a
resharpening service.
Sometimes, cutting performance is poor, but it is known that the knives are not near the end of their
normal service life. In that case, try some of the following:
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3.1) Knife travel
When the splicer is operated, and the knives move, there should be reasonable overlap of the edges
in the cutting zone. If there is no overlap, there are a number of possibilities:
• The knives may have been resharpened too many times. Remove the knives and
replace with new. See main text.
• The shaft may be a sloppy fit in the pocket at the base of the moving knife - this can happen
if either the knife slot or the peg have become worn. Replace knife or peg as
appropriate. See main text
• The shaft may be a sloppy fit in the hole which passes through the knife piston - this can
happen if the knife piston – a plastic component – has become worn after long service.
Replace the knife piston. See main text
• The knife piston may be sticking. Remove piston, as in the main text. Service or
replace.
3.2) Knife and accessory wear/damage
The knives may appear to be satisfactory, but there may be damage to the cutting edge at its lowest
point. This is rare, but may happen if something has happened to force the knives over into an
excessive scissor angle. Such misalignment causes chipping of the cutting edge where contact is
first made. Replace the knife, as in the main text.
Examine the small spacer washers, located on either side of the splicer, over the ends of the shaft.
The purpose of the spacer is to provide the slight scissor angle mentioned above. The spacer may
be absent, or worn, or damaged. Replace the spacer, as in the main text.
Check for correct seating of the compression spring. If it is not seated correctly, remove and re-
seat, as in the main text.
Check to see whether the arched compression spring has become flatter than normal. If it has,
remove the compression spring, and fit a new one.
Page 37 of 47
Appendix 2. Compressed air
Pneumatic splicers are operated by compressed air. Therefore the air supply must be appropriate.
The following points are important:
1. Splicers generally operate at a pressure between 3 and 8 bar.
2. Pressure may vary according to application, but it must be as uniform as possible.
3. The air supply should be reasonably dry and clean, with the lowest possible flow resistance.
4. Because the time taken to make a splice is short, transient pressure drops associated with
other demands in the mill may become important.
5. When the splicer is operated, line pressure at the splicer head normally drops by about 1
bar. If there are restrictions in the line, air will not be replenished, so that the pressure drop
will be greater; weak splices may result.
6. Compressed air installations should therefore be designed to minimise pressure drop.
7. Never use narrow-bore supply tube; this introduces resistance.
8. When there is doubt about the quality of the air supply system, a pressure gauge should be
fitted - temporarily - as near as possible to the splicer, so that static pressure and pressure
drop can be monitored. This is particularly desirable in an installation which uses long
lengths of coiled hose; losses in such hoses tend to be significant.
9. Sometimes, static line pressure is known to be adequate, but there are demonstrable
problems with transients. Then it may be useful to fit a few meters of wide-bore pipe or
other form of plenum, close to the splicer. This will act as a reservoir, to minimise pressure
drops while the splicer is in use.
10. Do not fit lubricators in the line very near to the splicer; an excess of oil on the yarn may
weaken the splice.
Page 38 of 47
Compressed air and safety
All our splicers have been designed with safety in mind. The few moving parts have been enclosed
or shielded to reduce the possibility of injury to the operator. In normal use, the only component
which is in any way a source of hazard is the knife assembly. By design, however, the blades are
difficult to reach, and are not dangerous in any normal circumstances. Knives represent a hazard
only during removal and disposal. So, in normal use, the splicers present no risk.
However, the splicers do use compressed air, and that has the potential to cause injury:
1. Compressed air is dangerous: avoid any bodily contact with it.
2. Always follow the safety precautions recommended by the compressor manufacturer.
3. Always ensure that unions and connectors are fully tightened and sealed, and that there are
no leaks.
4. Check the conditions of air supply lines on a regular basis. Always ensure that any flexible
hoses are unblemished; if there are any cuts or abrasions to the outer surface of the hose,
stop using the splicer and have the hose replaced by qualified personnel.
5. Do not look into the working parts of the splicer when it is being operated.
6. If a splicer malfunctions, do not use it until it has been repaired by qualified personnel.
7. For maintenance staff, additional advice is necessary. When cleaning or servicing is being
carried out, access to the internal mechanism of the splicer is essential. Under these
circumstances, maintenance engineers will be at greater risk than ordinary users. The
engineer should adhere strictly to the following guidelines:
8. Before undertaking any service work, disconnect the splicer from the air supply.
9. During service work, exercise care while handling knives and springs.
10. Under normal circumstances, always refit safety covers before reconnecting the splicer to the
air supply.
11. Under exceptional circumstances, it may be necessary - for test purposes - to reconnect the
splicer to the air supply without its safety covers. While the splicer is being tested, wear
protective gear and exercise due caution.
Page 39 of 47
Compressed air and noise
A splicer uses compressed air, which for a brief period - about 1 to 2 seconds - is vented to
atmosphere while the splice is being made. Air at perhaps 7 bar pressure escapes through a small
blast hole, creating intense turbulence in a small volume. Noise is inevitable.
Typical maximum noise levels vary from 80 db to 98 db, depending on the splicing chamber. Some
chambers are quieter than others, simply because they have a smaller blast-hole, and allow less air
to escape.
Our noisiest splicer, with the biggest blast hole in our range, generates a noise spectrum as shown in
the table below:
Hz 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 16000
dB 47 52 57 63 74 89 92 93 95
In practice, splicers are barely noticeable in a textile mill. This is because the other mill machinery
tends to be very noisy, and the sound of the splicer is lost in the general noise. Also, the blast only
lasts for about one second.
Nevertheless, in compliance with UK health and safety regulations, we recommend that ear
defenders (to local standards equivalent to British Standard 6344 Part 1) be worn.
Page 40 of 47
Appendix 3. Yarn clamp side cheek sub-assembly – dismantling and
reassembly
This appendix refers specifically to the more complex form of side-cheek, as fitted to some of the 104
range. The side cheek has an integral yarn clamp, to provide improved yarn control during splicing.
Figure 41. Remove yarn guide plate exit side
Removal of the securing screw allows the side-plate to
be withdrawn. This illustration shows the inside of the
more complex, yarn clamp side cheek.
Figure 42. Yarn guide plate removed
This picture shows the yarn guide plate after removal.
Just visible in the centre of the black side-cheek is the
yarn clamp. It may prove necessary, during
maintenance, to remove this yarn clamp and replace one
or more components.
Page 41 of 47
Figure 43. Remove side cheek
This illustration shows a standard side cheek, together
with its steel side-plate, which also functions as a yarn
guide plate; the standard side cheek is merely an
assembly for shrouding the splicer knives, and it carries
no additional parts. The illustration shows the first
screw being released using a screwdriver.
Figure 44. Side cheek removed
This picture shows the side cheek after removal. The
knife assembly has been exposed.
Figure 45. Inside surface of side cheek
Here the inner surface of the side cheek is shown. The
yarn clamp assembly is visible just left of centre.
Page 42 of 47
Figure 46. Remove yarn clamp stabilising pin securing screws
Here the first stage of removal of the stabilising pin is
shown; remove small socket set screw, using a hexagon
wrench. Repeat the process on the other side. The
stabilising pin can then be pushed out of the side cheek
with a thin implement.
Figure 47. Remove yarn clamp stabilising pin
This picture shows the stabilising pin, and its two grub
screws, after removal.
Figure 48. Release yarn clamp adjusting screw
In one edge of the side cheek is a larger hole, through
which the yarn clamp adjusting screw can be accessed,
using a small screwdriver.
Normally, this screw is used to adjust the compression of
the yarn clamp; however, in this instance, unscrew it
until it can be removed.
Page 43 of 47
Figure 49. Remove yarn clamp and yarn clamp adjusting spring
Once the yarn clamp adjusting screw has been removed,
the yarn clamp itself, and the yarn clamp adjusting
spring can be lifted out.
Rebuilding of the yarn clamp assembly is simply the reverse of the dismantling process. Take care
to make final adjustment to the spring compression, so that the yarn clamp is correct for the yarn
being joined.
Page 44 of 47
Appendix 4. 104 Series splicers – parts list
Description Item Part Number Quantity
1/4 BSPP x BSPP adaptor 157 22000-04-04 1
Knife spring 241 201-1088 1
M4 x 6 slotted pan head screw 254 15-44-06 1
'O' Ring - BS010 264 01-10-10 9
Shell 276 2200-43-04 8
Yarn clamp spring 307 301-1007 1
M3 x 4 socket set screw 501 17-13-04 2
M3 x 6 socket set screw 502 18-13-06 2
M3 x 6 countersunk slotted screw 516 16-43-06 2
Spring knife piston return 530 10-136-013 1
M5 x 20 socket head cap screw 647 11-15-20 2
Spring adjuster wheel 780 10-136-017 1
Spring air valve return 787 10-136-017 1
M4 x 6 socket set screw 869 17-14-06 1
Spacing bush 902 10-133-114 2
Pad (with item 905) – Item 889 without O-ring 905 903 10-113-112A 1
Extension spring 904 10-136-113 1
O-ring pad/upper sealing plug RM-0140-20 905 02-14-20 2
M4 x 16 countersunk slotted screw 908 16-44-16 1
Knife piston 103 1004 10-113-120 1
Lower sealing plug 103 1005 10-135-127 1
Dowel pin 5 x 10 1012 10-137-148 2
O-ring lower bore 1014 02-11-15 3
Blast valve & yarn clamp adjusting screw 1017 10-138-118 2
Splicer body 103 1018 10-100-121 1
Knife piston assembly 1019 10-113-120A 1
Lower sealing plug assembly 1020 10-135-127A 1
Trigger housing 103 1021 10-121-103 1
RH moving knife 1022 10-106-129-1 1
RH fixed knife 1023 10-106-130-1 1
LH moving knife 1024 10-106-129-2 1
Page 45 of 47
LH fixed knife 1025 10-106-130-2 1
Model 103 splicer long handle 100 mm 1026 10-119-102 1
Side cover old type (with no yarn clamp pad ability) 1027 10-177-109 1
Lower cover 103 1029 10-177-110 1
Yarn guide plate (knife side) 103 1031 10-105-149 1
Yarn guide plate (yarn entry side) 103 1032 10-105-150 1
Chamber 1033** SPECIFY 1
M3 x 16 countersunk slotted screw 1034 16-43-16 4
M5 x 100 socket head cap screw 1035 11-15-100 2
Side cover new type (with yarn clamp pad ability) 1036 10-177-111 1
Side cover new type assembly 1037 10-177-111A 1
Side cover old type assembly 1038 10-177-109A 1
Locking pad 1039 10-111-114 1
M4x4 socket set screw 1040 10-138-114 1
Protection cap 103 1041 10-cap-103 1
M3 x 25 countersunk slotted head screw 1042 25-43-25 2
Knife shaft 104 1043 10-137-154 1
Extension block 104 1044 10-137-155 1
Adjusting wheel 1099 10-173-107 1
Upper sealing plug 1102 10-135-126 1
Upper sealing plug assembly 110201A 10-135-126A 1
Air valve - blast 1104 10-113-121 1
Air valve - knife 1105 10-113-122 1
Knife pivot 1106 10-137-149 1
Yarn clamp pad 1108 10-142-117 1
Spacer - moving knife 1110 10-133-118 1
Trigger button 1111 10-114-102 1
Trigger button assembly complete 111101 10-114-102A 1
Adjusting wheel assembly 1112 10-173-107A 1
Circlip 1124 65-15-21 1
M6 x 6 socket set screw 1125 17-16-06 1
M6 x 4 turned socket set screw 1126 17-16-04 1
M4 x 8 socket head cap screw 1127 11-14-08 2
M3 x 10 socket set screw 1128 17-13-10 2
Page 46 of 47
Scale - adjuster wheel 1130 10-139-138 1
Adjuster wheel pin 1136 10-137-153 1
Hanging assembly parts
Splicer holding clip 170 201-1199 SPECIFY
C/sunk slotted screw M4 x 16 908 16-14-16 2
M4 x 30 countersunk crosshead screw 1007 10-44-30 1
Hanging wedge (adaptor plate) 1008 10-165-109 1
Page 47 of 47