Great Pictures Made Easy - Online Great Pictures Made Easy - Online Guide I. Get to know the camera

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Transcript of Great Pictures Made Easy - Online Great Pictures Made Easy - Online Guide I. Get to know the camera

  • Great Pictures Made Easy - Online Guide I. Get to know the camera functions and Operation.

    First, get familiar with the camera functions by reading the instruction manual. The instruction manual teaches you how to set-up and operate the camera.

    This online guide will teach how to use the camera functions to get the best results.

    Your SeaLife camera includes an English instruction. You can also download the instruction manual from the SeaLife website. The website includes instruction manuals for all SeaLife camera models in 5 languages – English, Spanish, German, Italian and French.

    Click here for the instruction manual page - SeaLife Underwater Cameras

    Once you are familiar with the camera functions, proceed to step two.

  • II. Capture the Magic

    What do you want to capture on your digital camera? What attracts you to underwater photography? What scenes are so breathtaking that people say “this is so unbelievable, I wish I had a camera to show this to my friends”?

    You will encounter strange creatures, see incredible effects of light and colors, explore wrecks, corals and plants that appear as if they were from a different planet, while you float effortlessly without gravity.

    And after years of adventures with your SeaLife camera you will look at your albums, perhaps even at an impressive gallery of framed enlargements. And it may be only then that you discover the real treasure that you found with your camera: You have learned to use your eyes to see and experience the underwater world, one of the

    greatest miracles on earth.

    As the manufacturers of SeaLife we believe that an easy to use underwater camera will help millions of divers and non-divers to experience and see a part of our world which is essential to our survival.

    And we hope that you will enrich and enlighten your life by capturing valuable impressions in the underwater world with your SeaLife Camera.

    Let’s dive into some very helpful information about underwater photography that will make your journey more enjoyable.

    Snake Eel, Anse Chastanet, St Lucia (by Bernd Rac)

  • III. Underwater basics Water is about 1000 times denser than air. There are a few differences between underwater photography and land photography that you should know.

    Light and Color – Water becomes darker and filters out the red, orange and yellow colors the deeper you go. That’s why underwater pictures look blue:

    Water absorbs light and colors as depth increases. The deeper you go the darker and “bluer” it gets. You will learn more about how to restore lost colors later in this guide

    Did you know? Coral, sponges and other underwater sea creatures are actually very colorful. Brilliant reds and eye-popping orange and yellows highlight the underwater world. These red, orange and yellow colors actually help to camouflage the sea creatures. Since red and yellow colors are absorbed by the water, the SeaLife appears colorless unless you bring a flashlight with you and uncover the hidden treasure of colors.

  • Effects of water refraction – Objects appear 33% larger and closer underwater than they actually are - like your car’s side view mirror. It tricks you into underestimating your shooting distance. Remember, it’s important to keep your shooting distance to within 6ft/2m for best color and sharpness.

    This Angelfish appears 2ft/60cm away but is actually 3ft/1m. This fish appears inside of 6ft/2m, but is actually 8ft/2.4m away.

    The SeaLife Wide Angle Lens accessory counters the underwater effect of magnification.

    The wide lens allows you to get closer to the subject and still fit everything in the picture.

  • Backscatter / Marine snow – There are 1000’s of tiny particles suspended in the water that can make it look like its snowing in your picture. You may not see the particles with your eyes until the flash lights them up.

    Camera’s built-in flash fires and illuminates particle. When the camera’s built-in flash is turned off, you don’t see the particles.

    Here are some tips to avoid backscatter:

    - Don’t stir up the sand and debris on the bottom. Control your buoyancy. - Keep your shooting distance to 10% of your visibility. If the visibility is 30ft/10m, limit your shooting

    distance to 3ft/1m. - Avoid using the camera’s built-in flash. The built-in flash is very close to the camera lens and illuminates

    all the particles in front of the lens. - Use the SeaLife external flash accessory to reduce backscatter.

    The SeaLife external flash reduces backscatter because

    the flash is located far away from the camera lens.

  • IV. Two ways to bring colors back into your pictures

    Remember the part about how water absorbs light and color? There are two easy ways you can bring color back to your pictures:

    1) Use a supplemental light source, like the SeaLife External Flash (SL960) and Digital Flash (SL960D). An external flash restores lost color, even in deep dark waters. But remember to keep your shooting distance to within 6ft/2m.

    You can also use the camera’s built-in flash but it will only have an effective range of about 2ft/60cm. As you learned the built-in flash can also result in backscatter, so the external flash accessory will achieve the best results.

    2) If you are not using an external flash accessory, stay at shallower depths and use the camera’s color correction features. For example, the SeaLife DC600 camera features the SEA mode, an automatic exposure program that restores lost colors. You still need relatively bright conditions for the SEA mode to work effectively. Images become grainer in darker conditions or depths greater than 50 feet. Using an external flash accessory becomes more important for in darker and deeper waters.

    Normal underwater picture at 25ft. With Sea mode color correction - restores lost colors.

  • V. Taking underwater pictures without optional External Flash (Sea mode)

    Now that you have learned how water affects underwater pictures and how to restore lost colors, let’s learn how to take some great pictures. This section covers how to take the best pictures without the external flash accessory. If you are using the optional External Flash accessory, skip to the next section.

    1) Set the camera’s scene mode to SEA –You will notice that the viewing image displayed in the LCD appears red in color when you are on land. That’s the effect of the color correction filter. When you are underwater, the viewing image colors will look natural. In SEA mode, the camera automatically adjusts settings to FLASH OFF and WHITE BALANCE set to

  • 4) Exposure control – The camera will automatically set the best exposure but sometimes pictures may be overexposed (washed out or too bright) or underexposed (too dark). You can easily make adjustments to get the best image exposure. Here are a some useful tips:

    a. If the image is overexposed (too bright) – an overexposed image is usually caused by over-

    flashing or extreme brightness of the sun on reflective objects.

    Coral is overexposed by bright sunlight Coral is overexposed the built-in flash

    Solution: Use the Exposure Compensation function on the camera to darken the image. Refer

    to page 34 of the instruction manual for information on how to adjust the exposure compensation. b. If the image is too dark – Most likely the light conditions are too dark. In low light conditions turn

    the camera’s built in flash on and keep your shooting distance less than 2ft/60cm. Adjustments become more difficult in low light conditions. This is why the External Flash accessory becomes important.

    Subject is underexposed because of low light Turing flash ON but keep shooting distance less than 2ft Solution: In low light conditions, you can increase the camera’s exposure compensation or turn the flash on and keep your shooting distance less than 2ft / 60cm.

  • 5) Focus – The camera will automatically focus from 2”/5cm to infinity, provided that the correct focus setting is selected and that there is enough light for the camera to “see” the subject. There are three focus settings:

    a. Normal focus: Camera will automatically focus from 1ft / 30cm to infinity.

    When using the zoom the 1.5ft / 45cm to infinity.

    b. Macro focus: Camera will automatically focus from 2in / 5cm to 2ft / 60cm. When using the zoom the 1ft / 30cm to 2ft / 60cm.

    c. Infinity focus: Camera will lock the focus at infinity, so anything beyond 2ft / 60cm is sharp.

    The shutter response (lag) time is the fastest when set to Infinity focus.

    Push the focus button to set desired focus The LCD display shows the focus icon and focus area Some helpful tips about focus: The normal focus will be set when first powering on the camera. Push the focus button and select the desired focus setting depending on your shooting distance. The camera will keep the setting until you change it, so make sure you know what focus setting is selected before taking the picture. The focus area box on the LCD display will turn green when the focus is correct. If the box turns red, the camera may not be able to determine the correct focus, because it is too dark, the subject may not have enough contrast, or