Adding a Windlass to a Grady 275

Disclaimer- I assume zero liability for your project.

• If you see mistakes in this document, send them to me and I’ll update the document / slideshare

• This document is just to notate what I did to my boat.

• You should have a professional do the work.• If you cut your boat wrong or install a windlass

incorrectly, you and only you are at fault.

Disclaimer

• This documentation is not complete, but its better than what I could find.

• Some of these photos came from the Grady support desk and a couple from the internet.

Partial List of Supplies

• 1 Grady Windlass kit.• Small grinder with 3-4” round blade• Small adjustable wrenches• 2” Painters Tape• Drill with various size bits. 1/8, ¼,• Small 12” * 12” marine board. (optional, see my

reinforcement)• 3M 4000 and 3M 5200 adhesives(1 tube each)• 1 tube Grady silicone sealant.

Before Image – Original Hatch

Before Image – Hatch Open

Open Hatch, Remove Anchor

• Remove the Existing Anchor.• Stuff a rag at the bottom of the anchor locker

to prevent nuts, bolts, etc. from going down in hull. There is a small opening which seems to catch everything you drop!

Apply painters tape to inside lip

• The tape should go from the top edge to below the lip

Apply painters tape to inside lip

Apply painters tape to inside lip

• The tape should go from the top edge to below the lip

• Draw a line around the inside edge that is the same as the lip. Both my fingers are at the same depth and the outside finger is resting in the ridge

Grind out the anchor rest. 1 of 5

• Prep:– Notate, the position of the preinstalled windlass

power underneath so you don’t cut it.– Make sure you understand the depth of your cut.

Don’t cut into the fiberglass on the backside of the anchor rest.

– Lay the new Windlass mount and all parts into the locker and trace your cuts.

– Measure 5 times, cut once.

Grind out the anchor rest. 2 of 5

• Prep:– Notate the wiring. Don’t cut it!

Grind out the anchor rest. 3 of 5

• Trace new anchor mount• Note you will need to cut out the lip where

the small circle is.

Grind out the anchor rest. 4 of 5

• Prep:– This is the end result.

Grind out the anchor rest. 5 of 5

• Prep:– Do your cut.

I also used an electric

grinder.

Prep for new hatch and windlass

• Put all parts on hatch and mark holes

• Note the metal brackets that came with kit.

• Note cut out of lip• Measure 3 times drill

once

Prep for new hatch

• I had to cut a washer to get it to fit on the inside

Prep for new hatch

• I had to grind a little of the the inside area where the metal brackets fit against the anchor box

Note: Metal supports(1 of 2)

• Note bracket is ½ under windlass support and ½ exposed for hatch.

• Note bolt goes thru windlass support, into the lip and then into the bracket.

• Drill carefully

Note: Metal supports 2 of 2

Aluminum Support

Install Windlass, Wiring is in preinstalled in anchor locker.

• Install Anchor. • 3M-4000 is a very strong adhesive, but 3M-

5200 is structural with twice the strength. I used 5200 to adhere the windlass support to the existing anchor locker and to adhere the additional support underneath the roller, but 4000 on the roller bolts.

Wiring under helm• Remove the foot rest. Remove 4 screws, save them, cut silicone sealant.• Don’t cut yourself! Sorry about the blood. I can’t do a project without the

giving the appearance of a murder scene.

Wiring under helm

• I am not going to provide wiring diagram as you can find that online, but here is a series of photos:

Wiring under helmWhere to get power from:

Near steering wheel. The black and red wire coming down is my windlass raw power.

Tape the helm under steering wheel

This is where Grady quality shows. I was expecting ¼ of fiberglass, not an inch!

Switch and Fuse

Switch and Fuse

I was surprised how tiny the switch leads are. They are made for a small wire, not a 6-8 gauge wire.

Finished photos

Finished photos

Finished photos

Finished photos Backing Plate

Finished photos Backing Plate(I reinforced mine)