How to Go Green, Save Big, and

Live Well

By: Kyle Travis

How to Go Green, Save Big, and Live Well

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Introduction

“It’s not that easy being Green” Kermit the Frog

I think many would agree with Kermit the Frog’s statement, “It’s not that easy being green.” It’s true that being environmentally conscious seems daunting. What does it mean to be green anyway? Does one have to live in a way that’s completely carbon neutral? Install solar panels on their property and live off the grid? Put up wind turbines? Collect and purify rain water? Drive the latest, most efficient Hybrid car? Grow their own food? Or all of the above?

Doing all of these things would definitely qualify a person as being green, and if you’re able to do all (or even a few) of these things I think that’s awesome. But, what about the rest of us who don’t have the time or money to do any of it? Should we even try to be “green”? I think the answer to that is yes. There seems to be the sentiment that being green will severely hamper your lifestyle to the point where you won’t be able to enjoy life. This isn’t true. The truth is a person’s impact on the environment can be significantly reduced by making some simple lifestyle changes. I also believe being environmentally conscious doesn’t necessarily have to cost you financially. In fact, there are many instances where being green and saving money go hand in hand. I think that’s something most can get on board with. The point is that it’s possible to be green, save money, and enjoy life all at the same time.

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Automotive

Almost everyone operates an automobile on a regular basis. In fact, the automobile has become an integral part of daily life around the globe. Thus, it’s very important we do everything we can to lessen the impact of our automobiles on the environment. The good news is you don’t have to run out and buy a new $30,000 hybrid to be green (though that doesn’t hurt). There are many ways to lessen the environmental impact of vehicles with “old school” internal combustion engines. Not only that, these ideas are easy to implement and will save you money.

1) Efficiency Pays Dividends…So Does Buying Used

Buy a used car ($5000-$15,000) that’s reliable and fuel efficient to use as a daily driver. A reliable, fuel efficient car will save you thousands over the long haul. Let’s say you drive a vehicle for 100,000 miles. If you choose a 35 miles per gallon car over a 20 miles per gallon car, you save 2,143 gallons of gas. At $3.50 a gallon, that’s $7,500 in savings right there. Efficiency not only reduces your carbon foot print, it pays!!! Also, only paying $5,000 to $15,000 for a used car is smart because any car you put miles on is going down in value everyday. In three years a new $30,000 car will be worth $15,000 or less. In addition, buying and maintaining a used vehicle is green because, just like anything else that gets reused, it’s a form of recycling. It reduces waste and stretches our natural resources further. Do some research to determine the best vehicle for your needs that combines the proper level of safety, reliability, comfort, style, and efficiency.

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2) Don’t Speed

Not only is speeding inefficient, it can also get you pulled over and cost you a ticket. I’m sorry to say this has happened to me several times. As you can see in the above graph, gas mileage peaks at around 60 mph. Thus, 55 to 60 mph is the optimum driving speed for most vehicles. Also, aggressive driving such as rapid acceleration and hard breaking will drastically reduce fuel economy. It’s easier to just drive the speed limit, keep more gas in your tank, and the cops off your tail.

3) Maintenance Maximizes Efficiency

Clean your car’s air filter. A clean air filter can improve gas mileage by up to 7%. K & N high performance air filters are ideal because they’re less restrictive, long lasting, and will save you money in the long run. Changing or cleaning an air filter can be done in just a few minutes.

Air up your tires. Gas mileage is reduced by 1% for every two PSI your tires are below the recommended level. Most car tires are five to ten PSI below the recommended level, so that means you could improve your gas mileage up to 5% by just adding air to your tires. Get a tire pressure gauge and check your tire pressure monthly.

Get a maintenance plan. Instead of just waiting until something breaks, develop a monthly maintenance schedule and perform maintenance where it’s needed. This activity, taking just an hour or two a month, will keep things from breaking down and help you see problems before they become disasters. This includes keeping everything clean, checking fluids, checking tire pressure, and so on.

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4) Avoid Excessive Idling and Use Cruise Control

An idling car gets 0 miles per gallon. Depending on the engine size, an idling vehicle can use ¼ to ½ gallon of fuel per hour. It only takes a few seconds worth of fuel to restart your vehicle, so turn off your engine when parked. Just remember that turning your engine on and off excessively is hard on the starter so be sensible about it. Also, use the cruise control on the highway to maintain a constant speed and save gas.

5) Lighten the Load

Avoid keeping unnecessary items in your vehicle, especially heavy ones. One hundred pounds of extra weight can reduce gas mileage up to 2 %. This is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to your vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones.

6) Bike, Carpool, and Take Public Transportation

Take public transportation, carpool, or ride a bike if possible. I know sometimes this can be inconvenient, but there’s no point in driving if you don’t have too. This has the potential to save a lot of gas depending on how far you travel.

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7) Use a Greener Oil…G-Oil

Have you ever been in a parking lot after rain and noticed water puddles that had an iridescent tint? This iridescence (shown below) is actually oil that has leaked from engines. This oil wreaks havoc on marine life and is hard for water treatment plants to remove. Now there’s a brand of oil you can buy that has the potential to correct this problem called G-Oil made by Green Earth Technologies. G-Oil performed better than synthetics in tests done by the American Petroleum Institute, is biodegradable, has a low toxicity, reduces tailpipe emissions by 50%, and reduces dependence on foreign oil because it’s manufactured in the United States from renewable base oils and/or recycled crude. Their product line now offers everything from an advanced bio-based full synthetic motor oil to a 2x refined conventional motor oil, all of which come from a reusable or renewable resource and are biodegradable. Green Earth Technologies is now the main sponsor of Nascar’s Kenny Wallace and the Dyson Racing Team of the American Le Mans Series. The G-Oil line is competitively priced and available at numerous retail locations such as Wal-Mart, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware to name a few. You can also purchase G-Oil, along with many other products by Green Earth Technologies, online here. I have been using G-Oil for a few years now and am glad to say that it works great. You won’t necessarily save money by using G-Oil, but you’ll be substituting a green product for an environmentally damaging one at little, to no additional cost while promoting energy independence. That’s a win-win situation in my opinion. Here’s some more information about G-Oil from the Green Earth Technologies website…

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According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, over 40% of our

nation’s oil pollution comes from the improper disposal of used motor oil by

Do-It-Yourselfers.

One five quart oil change improperly disposed can:

Create an oil slick on the surface of ten acres (about ½ million square feet).

Render five acres (about ¼ million square feet) unusable for planting for

decades.

Contaminate one million gallons (a year supply for 50 people) of water.

Green Earth Technologies’ products, including G-OIL, are made from

American grown base oils, achieving an Ultimate Biodegradability ranking

form the ASTM standard D5864 which defines 'Ultimate Biodegradable' as

a product that is rapidly absorbed (eaten) by microorganisms by 60% in 28

days. G-Oil proudly exceeds those standards.

The biodegradability of motor oil depends on the feedstock. If the feedstock

is crude oil, then the biodegradability that can be obtained is between 15% -

35% and synthetics biodegradability value is between 5% - 30%. For G-

OIL, where the feedstock is plant oil or animal fat, the biodegradability is

significantly better with 65% to 95% achievable within 9 days and more

over time.

Green Motor Oil (G-OIL) has several advantages over crude or other oils including synthetics:

Ultimate Biodegradable and Renewable

Environmentally friendly, significant amount of ground water pollution can be

controlled or eliminated

Low or no toxic

High Performance…naturally better than synthetics

Excellent lubricity (superior performance can be achieved by introducing

Molybdenum disulfide nanospheres)

High flash point

The unsaturated fatty ester, Methyl Oleate, helps to lower the pour point.

Reductions in Greenhouse gas emissions

Provide significant reductions in HC (hydrocarbons -32%), CO (carbon

monoxide -48%) and NOx (nitrous oxides -80% emissions

Best solution to air and water pollution

Can be stored anywhere

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Making Your Home Green

As I said earlier, you don’t have to install wind turbines and solar panels around your home to be green. Don’t get me wrong these things have their time and place, but today they’re far from being cost effective for the average person. In fact, solar panels cost $28,000-$36,000 and take 17-22 years to pay for themselves in energy savings. By that time the panels will be worn out and need to be replaced. I hope someday we’re able to harness solar power in a more affordable way, but until that day comes we should concentrate on more cost efficient ways to lessen our environmental impact at home.

1) Stop Air Infiltration

Air infiltration is the process of air leaking into or out of a home. A house could have the most energy efficient furnace/ac on the market, but if it isn’t sealed well it won’t make much of a difference. Think of it like leaving a door or window

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open all the time. Sealing air leaks will make your home more comfortable and result in lower energy consumption during the heating and cooling seasons.

Tip: You may consider hiring an energy auditor to professionally evaluate

your home. They can help you locate leaks, assess your insulation needs,

help you decide what needs to be done, and show you where your money is

best spent. A comprehensive audit will help you reduce your energy bills

while improving the comfort of your home. However, if you’re handy,

there are plenty of things you can do yourself.

Detecting Air Leaks

Wait for a windy day to find air leaks. Turn off the furnace/air conditioner, close all exterior doors and windows, and shut the fireplace damper if you have one. Light an incense stick or candle and move it around possible points of air infiltration. If the flame flickers or the smoke moves horizontally, there’s a draft that needs to be sealed.

Some common places for air infiltration are…

Doors. Inspect the threshold and weather stripping on all entry doors. The weather stripping needs replaced if it’s brittle, won’t compress, or light can be seen through the crack when the door is closed. Also, check between the

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doorjamb and the house framing behind the trim. These spaces are often hollow in older homes and readily allow air infiltration. To fix this, remove the trim and use insulation spray foam to fill the crack as shown above.

Windows. Inspect the weather stripping on all windows. If the weather stripping is brittle, won’t compress, or is nonexistent then it needs to be replaced or added. Also, check between the window frame and the house framing behind the trim. Like doors, these spaces are often hollow in older homes and readily allow air infiltration. To fix this, remove the trim and use insulation spray foam to fill the crack. In addition, make sure any window ac unit has a good seal all the way around.

Mail Slots. If you have a mail slot make sure it closes tightly. Weather stripping might be able to be used around the opening depending on what kind you have.

Pipes and Wires. Any pipes or wires that pass through an exterior wall have the potential to leak air. Seal around all pipes and wires with exterior grade caulk. In addition, replace your old dryer vent with a lambro dryer vent enclosure. This consists of an elbow pipe topped with a plastic cap and shuttle. When the dryer is in use, the floating shuttle beneath the hood rises to let warm air, lint, and moisture escape. When not in use, the shuttle drops down to seal the hole and prevent drafts.

Electrical Boxes. Light switches and electrical outlets on exterior walls can leak air. Gaskets are available that are installed beneath the cover plate.

Fireplace. When the fireplace is not being used keep the flue damper closed. If the flue damper is left open hot air is constantly escaping. Get an inflatable chimney balloon to make your chimney flue air tight for maximum energy savings.

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Sealing air gaps will require different materials depending upon the application. Caulking can be used around exterior doors, window casings, pipes or wires that pass through exterior walls, and to seal between different materials such as masonry and siding. Insulation spray foam, as I mentioned earlier, is useful for filling larger gaps around door and window casings. By spending an afternoon sealing air leaks with caulk and insulation spray foam your energy bills will drop dramatically.

2) Insulate

Check the insulation levels in your home to ensure energy isn’t being unnecessarily wasted. Even though insulation isn’t very glamorous, it’s by far the most cost effective project with the fastest return on investment a homeowner can have done. This is because insulation saves energy by keeping heat in during the winter and out during the summer. The effectiveness of a piece of insulation is measured by its R-Value, which indicates a materials ability to resist heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the materials insulating properties. Here are the best places to check your insulation levels and raise the R-value of your home…

Tip: Make sure to wear a long-sleeved shirt, gloves, eye protection, and a dust

mask when handling insulation of any kind.

Attic. The easiest, most effective place to add insulation is in an unfinished attic. Attics are typically insulated with cellulose. Cellulose is made of 80% post-consumer recycled newspaper that’s chemically treated with non-toxic borate compounds to resist fire, insects, and mold. More cellulose insulation should be added if the level is below 16 inches. The ideal depth of cellulose in an attic is between 18 and 24 inches. Make sure the insulation is evenly distributed and has no low spots. Even small gaps can greatly reduce

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performance. Also, be very careful walking around an unfinished attic because one wrong step and you could fall through the ceiling below. Don’t forget to place fiberglass over the attic access door when you’re done.

Basement / Crawlspace. When insulating a basement or crawlspace moisture must be considered. This is particularly important since a moist, dark environment is ideal for mold growth. Thus, if your basement is perpetually damp insulation should be used sparingly.

o Basement. Blanket insulation is the most common type of insulation and is usually made of fiberglass. It comes in batts, rolls, or blankets and can have a facing attached that's made of paper, foil, or vinyl. Fiberglass batts are usually cheaper than foam board and are best used in a dry basement. Insulate the walls and box sill with this type of insulation. If your basement is damp use foam board to insulate the walls. The advantage of foam board is that it keeps water from condensing on walls. Foam board must be covered with a fire barrier, typically ½ inch drywall. Even if you only insulate the box sill and the top half of the foundation wall you’ll notice a big improvement.

Tip: Insulating masonry walls in a basement typically requires walls to be

framed in. This will add to the cost and time of the project.

o Crawlspace. When insulating a crawl space, it's usually easiest to insulate the exterior masonry walls rather than the underside of the floor. This allows you to avoid the plumbing, electrical, and duct work that run through the space. First, cover the entire area with visqueen. This includes the floor and the masonry walls. Next, insulate the walls with faced fiberglass batts. Cut the batts long enough to extend from the sill plate, down the wall, and out onto the floor 2 feet. Secure the top of the batts with a 2x2 board that’s nailed to the sill plate. Also, insulate the box sill by cutting pieces of insulation to fit between the floor joists.

Exterior Walls. If the stud spaces in your walls are empty there are noninvasive insulating techniques available that won’t require tearing out drywall or plaster. Cellulose can be injected in a 1 inch hole that’s drilled between the stud spaces. Be warned, this can be messy. It’s best to hire a professional for this job.

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3) Windows

On average, 10-25% of a home's hot or cold air (depending on the season) escapes through its windows. The best way to remedy this problem is to install new windows. It takes many years for new windows to pay for themselves in energy savings, but the benefit of increased property value, comport, functionality, and aesthetics makes it well worth the investment. If you’re in the market for new windows make sure the ones you buy are energy star certified. In addition, look for windows that have a low-e (emissivity) coating. Low-e coatings keep heat inside during the winter and outside during the summer. New windows should also have at least 2 panes of glass, a U-factor of less than 0.3, and a low solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC). If you can't buy replacement windows at the moment here are some tips to make you old windows perform better...

Install Storm Windows. By installing triple-track storms, you can dramatically reduce air infiltration and protect your old windows from the elements. Measure carefully to determine if you can use a standard-size or need to custom order. When you're ready to install, position the unit in the opening to check the fit. Clean the window's exterior frame. Apply a bead of caulk on the back of the top and side fins of the storm window. Do not caulk the

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bottom fin because this allows moisture to drain from the window. Position the storm unit in the window frame and secure with screws. Storms cost a fraction of replacement windows, $40 - $160 compared to $200 - $700, and yield energy savings of up to 21% with a low-e coating.

Plastic Film. Get a window insulation kit. These kits consist of a clear plastic film and double-sided tape. Apply the tape around the frame of the window, cut a piece of plastic to fit, and then place the plastic on the window. When the plastic is in place use a hair dryer to shrink and tighten. When this is done correctly it’s hard to even tell that there’s plastic covering the window.

Cover with Foam. Cover basement and attic windows no one uses with a piece of foam board. Cut the foam to fit tight inside the frame and simply pop out when you want to let light in.

4) Heating and Cooling

Most of the energy used in a home is for heating and cooling. This means by getting a more efficient furnace/ac unit you will dramatically reduce your energy bills along with your carbon footprint. Just like everything else nowadays, the best furnaces/ac units carry an energy star rating. If you are in the market for a new heating and cooling system here are some other options to consider…

Heat Pumps

Simply put, a heat pump is a device that uses a small amount of energy to move heat from one location to another. This makes heat pumps a green alternative to a traditional gas-burning furnace because they simply transfer heat rather than burn

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fuel. They take the place of your outside ac compressor and perform double duty as an air conditioner in the warmer months and a heat pump in the colder months. If you know how an air conditioner works, then you already know a lot about how a heat pump works because they are very similar. There are many different kinds of heat pumps with the most popular being air source and geothermal.

o Air Source Heat Pumps

An air source heat pump system looks pretty much the same as a typical furnace/ac setup but operates differently. The heat pump unit takes the place of your outside ac compressor and performs double duty as an ac in the summer months and a heat pump in the spring and fall. This technology is capable of absorbing heat from the outside air. As the temperature drops the ability of the heat pump also drops. An

ideal temperature range for an air source heat pump is 35 F to 60 F.

Below 35 F the heat pump shuts off and the furnace takes over the heating duties of the entire home.

o Geothermal Heat Pumps

Geothermal heat pumps (sometimes referred to as geoexchange, earth-coupled, ground-source, or water-source heat pumps) have been in use since the late 1940’s. Geothermal heat pumps (GHP) use the constant temperature of the earth as the exchange medium instead of the outside air. This allows the system to reach high efficiencies on the coldest of winter nights, 300%-600% compared to 175%-250% for air-source heat pumps.

While many parts of the country experience seasonal temperature extremes, below the ground stays at a relatively constant temperature. Depending on latitude, ground temperatures range from 45°F to 75°F. Like a cave, this ground temperature is warmer than the air above it during the winter and cooler than the air in the summer. The GHP takes advantage of this by exchanging heat with the earth through a ground heat exchanger. Some models of geothermal systems are available with two-speed compressors and variable fans for more comfort and energy savings. Compared to air-source heat pumps, they are quieter, last longer, need less maintenance, and do not depend on the temperature of the outside air.

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A dual-source heat pump combines an air-source heat pump with a geothermal heat pump to give the best of both systems. Dual-source heat pumps have higher efficiency ratings than air-source units, but are not as efficient as geothermal units. The main advantage of dual-source systems is that they cost much less to install than a single geothermal unit, and work almost as well.

Even though the installation price of a geothermal system can be several times that of an air-source system of the same heating and cooling capacity, the additional costs are returned to you in energy savings within 5 to 10 years. System life is estimated at 25 years for the inside components and 50+ years for the ground loop.

If installing a new furnace or heat pump is out of your budget at the moment

consider these quick and easy projects to improve the efficiency of your current

heating and cooling system…

Programmable Thermostat. Use a programmable thermostat to reduce heating and cooling bills. A programmable thermostat will help your current system achieve peak performance by automatically raising or lowering the temperature when you aren’t home. You can adjust the times your system will turn on and off according to your schedule. As a result your heating and cooling system will run less.

Washable Furnace Filter. As a furnace filter becomes dirty it constricts air flow, extends system run time, and lowers the efficiency of your heating and cooling system. It’s recommended to change your furnace filter once every 3 months. This is an unnecessary expense. Get a reusable furnace filter that’s washable to save money and cut down on waste.

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Seal air ducts. Leaky ductwork is a common occurance that increases heating and cooling costs by extending system run time. There are many joints in ductwork and all have the potential to leak. Research has shown that leaky ductwork can diminish efficiency by as much as 30%. Foil tape works best when sealing joints.

Duct Insulation. Uninsulated ducts in a cold/hot attic space will actually cool/warm air before it reaches your living space. Duct insulation can cut this energy loss significantly. Ductwork in crawl spaces, basements, and garages can also benefit from insulation.

Ceiling Fans. Ceiling fans make your home seem a few degrees cooler than it actually is. This allows you to set your thermostat a few degrees higher and save on your electric bills during the summer.

Shade Your Air Conditioner. A unit operating in the shade uses up to 10% less electricity. Plan to place your ac unit on the north side of your home to take advantage of this.

Draperies/Shades. During the winter keep the draperies/shades on south facing windows open during the day to allow sunlight to enter and warm your home. The opposite is true in the summer.

Plant Trees. Deciduous trees planted on the south and west side of your house will help keep it cool in the summer and allow sun to shine in the windows during the winter.

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5) Metal Roof

Metal Roofs are very long lasting. If you put a metal roof on your home it could very well be the last roof you ever have installed, given you get a quality installation. It may seem expensive but metal roofing actually costs less than asphalt shingles in the long run. Also, the high solar reflectance of a metal roof increases energy efficiency resulting in a 35% reduction of cooling costs during the summer. On top of all that, a metal roof has been shown to increase a home’s resale value. All of these benefits make installing a metal roof one of the best remodeling investments a homeowner can make.

6) Water Heater

Heating water is typically the third largest energy expense in a home. Here are some ways to lower that cost substantially.

Set Your Water Heater to 120 F. Lower the thermostat on your hot water

heater to 120 F. Water heaters typically come from the factory with a higher

temperature setting, but 120 F is hot enough for most uses.

Install Aerators and Low-Flow Showerheads. Hot water will be used more sparingly when aerators are installed on all faucets and low-flow showerheads in all bathrooms.

Insulate Your Water Heater. Insulation jackets can be purchased for most water heaters. Just follow the manufacturer’s recommendations because a potential safety hazard can be created if an insulation jacket is installed wrong or fits improperly (think fire). Also, insulate the first 10 feet of hot water pipe coming from the water heater with foam pipe insulation.

Drain Consistently. Water contains minerals that can form sediment. Overtime this sediment can collect at the bottom of your water heater’s tank.

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Sediment will make your water heater work harder to keep your water warm. To solve this problem simply drain a gallon of water from your water heater once every three months.

Tankless Water Heaters. A water heater with a storage tank suffers from what’s called standby loss. Standby loss refers to the energy that’s wasted by keeping water in a water heater’s tank hot all the time. Tankless water heaters, also called on demand water heaters, eliminate standby loss because they don’t have a tank that stores hot water. When a hot water valve is turned on, water flows into a sensor that turns on a heating coil. Water flows through the heating coil and is heated almost instantly. When the hot water valve is turned off, the sensor automatically shuts down the heating coils. It takes about 5 seconds to heat water with a tankless system. Other advantages of tankless systems are that they last twice as long as conventional water heaters (20 years or longer) and give an endless supply of hot water so you’ll never have to take a cold shower.

Solar Water Heaters. Solar water heaters work with conventional water heaters to lower your energy usage and can be used in any climate. Solar water heating systems include storage tanks and solar collectors. Most solar water heating systems run water through the solar collectors before entering a conventional water heater. The water is then circulated back through the solar collectors periodically to maintain an optimum temperature.

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7) Get Energy Star Appliances

If you’re looking to buy new appliances look for the energy star label. Energy star products meet strict efficiency guidelines set by the US Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency. These agencies require appliances to be displayed with a bright yellow energy guide label. These labels will tell you the annual energy consumption and operating cost for each appliance. For instance, a top energy star rated refrigerator uses 40% less energy than conventional models made in 2001. This is important to consider because you’ll be paying money to operate these appliances every month for the next 10 to 20 years (depending on the appliance). Visit www.aceee.org to check out the top rated energy star appliances.

8) Lighting

LED (light emitting diode) bulbs offer better light quality than incandescent bulbs, use less energy than CFL bulbs, can last 22 years or longer, and contain no toxic materials. The only downside is that you can’t place an LED bulb in an enclosed fixture. These bulbs must have air circulating around them to dissipate heat. If an LED is placed in an enclosed fixture it will slowly dim over several weeks until the brightness is only a fraction of what it once was. However, this limitation may be solved in the future, but for now it remains an issue. Other than that, use LED lighting everywhere you can. The cheapest place to buy LED bulbs is online here.

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9) Stop Vampire Power

Vampire power, also known as standby power, is electricity that’s being used by inactive electronics to run things like digital displays, clocks, LED status lights, and so on. According to the US Department of Energy, vampire electronics in an average home account for 5-10% of total electricity use. Tests conducted by the DOE have shown the worst offenders to be DVR’s, cable and satellite boxes, televisions, and stereo systems. Here are some ways to combat these energy leeches…

Unplug Your Electronics. Unplug devices when they're not in use. To make this easier, plug everything into a surge protector that you can switch off when not in use.

Get a Smart Strip. If you’re like me, flipping a surge protector on and off all the time gets annoying. To avoid this hassle, plug everything into a smart power strip. Smart power strips work to reduce your power usage by automatically shutting down power to electronics that go into standby mode. An example of this is the Smart Strip LGC3 from Bits Limited, which comes with 10 color-coded outlets. The blue outlet is the control outlet with all white outlets connected to it. Anything plugged into the white outlets is controlled by the device plugged into the single blue outlet. Thus, you would want to plug your TV into the blue outlet and your DVD player, cable box, surround sound, and DVR into the white outlets. This is because these accessories constantly draw power in standby mode but are only used when the TV on. So, when the TV is turned off the power to these accessories is completely cut off.

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However, when the TV is turned on these accessories go into standby mode and are able to be turned on and off with a remote. The red outlets are always on for devices that might need power when the TV is off. Other smart power strips can do even more than just turn outlets on or off. The Isolé IDP-3050 has a motion detector. When there's a person nearby, all outlets are active. When the room is unoccupied for a certain length of time (determined by the user) the IDP-3050 cuts power to 6 of its 8 outlets.

10) Buy Secondhand

When buying big ticket items don’t just automatically go to the big box stores, see if buying used is an option instead. Buying used not only saves money, it’s a socially responsible way to keep reusable materials out of landfills. Search on websites like craigslist, ebay, and freecycle. Also, local stores like Salvation Army, Habitat for Humanity Restore’s, and Good Will are all great places to find high quality used goods.

11) Make Your Own Household Cleaners

Very effective, non-toxic cleaning products can be made from common household items like baking soda, vinegar, and soap. Using your own cleaning products will increase indoor air quality while saving time and money. Here are some common cleaning product recipes…

Baking Soda Soft Scrub. Baking soda is an abrasive that can be used to polish and whiten. It’s also an effective deodorizer. Mix ½ cup of baking soda with a little liquid detergent to make a soft scrub cleaning liquid. Use this to clean sinks, bathtubs, and showers.

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White Vinegar. White vinegar is an acid that’s non-toxic, kills mold and mildew, effectively cuts grease, and doesn’t leave a residue. Mix 1 part vinegar with 2 parts water to make an effective cleaning solution. Put the solution in a reusable spray bottle and keep on hand. Since it’s an acid, do not use it on any stone surface because it will etch.

12) Cut Down on Waste

Don’t Buy Bottled Water. Use a water filtering system to purify tap water instead of buying bottled water. Not only is bottled water expensive, but it generates large amounts of container waste. Get a reusable water bottle to carry water with you when traveling.

Recycle Electronics. Keep your cell phones, computers, and other electronics as long as possible. Donate or recycle them responsibly when the time comes. There are actually websites like gazelle.com that will buy your old electronics from you even if they’re broken. E-waste is a huge environmental concern because it contains mercury and other toxic compounds.

Use Rechargeable Batteries. Batteries contain toxic chemicals that are bad for the environment. Buy rechargeable batteries to save money and reduce the number of batteries that end up in landfills.

Recycle as Much as Possible. Recycling is more convenient today than ever before. Most people have a separate bin at their home specifically for recycling that gets picked up with the trash every week. Sort through what you plan on throwing away and separate out everything that can be recycled.

How to Go Green, Save Big, and Live Well

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Conclusion

These tips won’t solve all the earth’s environmental problems, nor will they make you independently wealthy. However, they will save you a good chuck of change while significantly reducing your impact on the environment. The more people who do their part the better off everyone will be. Again, this ebook is free and intended to be shared. So, if you like this ebook please feel free to pass it along to your friends and family. In fact, I would appreciate it if you could post the link to this ebook (found here) to Facebook or Twitter to help get the word out. This is easy to do and only takes a second. Visit my blog at www.frugalhomediy.com for more tips and tricks pertaining to home improvement, saving money, and anything else I think is interesting at the moment. If you have any suggestions or changes that you feel need to be made to this ebook feel free to contact me through my BLOG.