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Women`s Fitness andHealthAugust, 2017Page: 122Section: General NewsRegion: National, AUCirculation: 57000Type: Magazines SportSize: 2,669.00 sq.cms.

of 5AUS: 1300 1 SLICE NZ: 0800 1 SLICE [email protected]

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Long before we swore allegiance tobushy brows, many of us took toour faces with tweezers until therewere precious few hairs remainingabove our eyeballs. Now, the skinnybrow is basically extinct in favour ofvoluminous arches that help womenstep out of the door feeling relativelyput together. But lets be honest, whohas the time?

"So many women over-plucked inthe '90s and their brows have not grownback, leaving them with the burden ofhaving to draw them in everyday, whichis why more and more women areturning to semi-permanent options,"says Melbourne-based celebritybrow aesthetician Suzie Mclntosh(suziemcintosh.com).

Indeed, there's no denying that greateyebrows can completely transformyour features, swipe years off yourface and act as the perfect antidote toa no-make-up look (we're looking atyou Kim K). For some, a pencil, gel orpomade will cut it. For others, cosmetictattooing is the name of the game. Sothe question remains: how far wouldyou go to achieve #browsonfleek?

Semi-permanent may sound intimidating,but recent advancements in technology justmight change that. While there are manyareas of your body you can get cosmeticallytattooed or enhanced, the brow businessis undeniably booming, with no signs ofslowing down. If you're suffering fromover-zealous tweezing, age or illness hasgotten the better of your brows, or you justwant to give your arches an Insta-worthyupdate, these cosmetic enhancements maybe for you:

EYEBROW EXTENSIONS - the processis very similar to lash extensions; theindividual brow hairs (which are madefrom synthetic hair fibres) are attachedto your natural brow hair or skin bya brow technician who will carefully beef upyour brows and fill in any noticeable gaps.LONGEVITY: one to two weeks, dependingon how careful you are with upkeep. COST:$30-$80 depending on how many hairsneed to be applied.

EYEBROW TRANSPLANTS - an appealingoption for people who have lost theireyebrows due to illness, medical treatment,alopecia, stress and hormonal changes, thissurgery involves removing donor follicles

from the back of the patient's head and

transplanting them back into the eyebrows.

LONGEVITY: the transplanted hairs fall

out at around two weeks, and then start

to regrow at three months, where they

will continue to grow for a lifetime. COST:

$2500 -$3000 depending on the nature of

the surgery.

MICROBLADING - a painless eyebrow

enhancing procedure using multiple needles

to deposit pigment underneath the dermis

to give the appearance of thicker, bolder

arches in an instant. LONGEVITY: up to 12

months, with touch-ups in between. COST:

$700 - $1000 depending on the technician's

skill and experience.

POWDER FILL BROW TATTOO - a more

permanent cosmetic brow technique that

implants the brow pigment much deeper

than microblading and fades minimally.

This method involves the application of

thousands of tiny little dots of pigment,

inserted into the skin, gradually building up

in colour and a defined shape. LONGEVITY:

Up to 24 months, though this is dependent

on environmental, health and cosmetic

factors. COST: $600 - $1000 depending on

the type of tattoo you require.

ALL EYES ON MICROBLADINGIn the last couple of decades, eyebrow artistry hascertainly evolved. But in recent years, leading the way asthe most commonly requested cosmetic brow treatmentis none other than microblading - also known asfeathering, eyebrow embroidery or etching.

The trend has particularly taken over Instagram- it's impossible to have missed the countless videosof flawless brows created with short, precise strokesstreaming across your feed.

"Feathering allows women to wake-up in themorning with perfectly shaped, symmetrical, smudgeproof and water proof natural looking brows that last,"says Mclntosh.

Perfect for those who want to reshape, define andcover bald spots, the best part is that it can render aneyebrow pencil irrelevant for up to twelve months.

THE PROCESSSuitable to anyone over the age of 18 who isn't pregnant,breastfeeding, or undergoing radiation or chemotherapy,

the method uses an iron oxide base that gradually fadesto eventual disappearance of the shading unless, ofcourse, topped up.

Dani Wylie from Cosmetic Tattooing by Dani,explains that the procedure of microblading can beanywhere from 1.5-2.5 hours, and it is entirely safeproviding it's performed by an experienced technician.

"Numbing cream is applied to the area for thirtyminutes followed by measuring and drawing on thebrows until the desired thickness and shape is achieved,"says Wylie. Consider this step a 'template' for yourdesired brow shape.

"It is important to liaise with the client when doingthis so that you can get an idea of their expectationsof what they are hoping to achieve from their session,"she says.

Then, a carefully selected fine grade pigment - whichis chosen based on the client's overall appearance, skintone, eye colour and hair colour - is implanted into theskin using a fine needle.

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In order to create definition anddimension, the specialist uses a microblademachine, which creates small, finestrokes in the direction of hair growth incombination with a larger needle.

One, two or even three different shadesof pigment can be used, creating a single,double or even triple layer brow tattoo,giving a 3D brow effect.

Wylie points out the importance offollowing the natural hair growth of thebrow for a more natural result.

RECOVERYThe tattooed area will appear dark andbold in colour for up to two weeks, whilethe healing process (which lasts six to eightweeks) takes place. Some swelling andredness may occur, but this usually lasts nomore than 48 hours.

An obvious bonus is that there isminimal down-time and natural hairdoes not need to be removed to achieve afabulous set of fuzzies - your new set ofarches are selfie-ready immediately afterthe procedure.

To combat inflammation and damage tothe skin, technicians usually supply clientswith Bepanthen cream, best applied three tofour times per day until the area is healed.

"There may be a stage where you peel,or your brows appear to have completelydisappeared - this is a normal part of thehealing process," says Wylie.

MAINTENANCEAccording to Wylie, a follow up perfectingsession is recommended six weeks after theinitial session to go over any hair strokesthat have faded, become patchy or havefallen out.

"This also gives the client anopportunity to enhance the brows somemore by going thicker or darker in colour,"she says.

As with most cosmetic procedures, it isrecommended you do not wet the area orwear make-up for seven days, but "you canwear your everyday foundation - just don'tput it directly onto the tattooed area."

RISK FACTORS» Infection can occur: if proper aftercare isnot followed and your technician does notadhere to correct hygiene, there is risk of aninfection. A reliable practitioner will have

sterilised all needles, hand tools and anyother equipment used should be disposedof after the procedure.

» You may have an allergic reaction: if

you are concerned about allergic reactions,Wylie recommends doing a test patchbehind the ear or somewhere that is notvisible to see how your skin reacts to thenumbing cream and pigment.

» Results may vary: while some may walkaway from their appointment feeling asroyal as Queen Cara D herself, others maynot be overly happy with the end result.Thankfully laser removal offers respite.

» Not everyone is the perfect candidate:

a downside for those with mature skin orskin that has been aged prematurely fromsun exposure, is that the hair strokes maynot appear as well defined as in younger,more elastic skin. If this is the case, apowder fill cosmetic tattoo, or hair strokesover an initial powder fill treatment, mayproduce a better result.

» It's costly: the initial cost coupled withtouch-up fees can set you back quite a bitof dosh, but if the social media hype isanything to go by, it's worth it. Plus, thereare loads of technicians and clinics thatoffer great deals and offers.




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FAKE IT TIL YOUCRO-BLADE IT

If semi-permanent isn't your thing or you're saving up

to undergo the procedure, a DIY job is your next best

beauty bet.

Arch expert Ursula Cervellone from Feather Brow

Couture says that the shape of your brow has the

power to make or break your overall look, so it pays

to know a thing or two about mastering the perfect

brow game.

"Brows should be shaped according to your face

shape whether it be square, round, oval or heart,"

says Cervellone.

» HEART SHAPED - add volume and width to detract

focus from the wider portions of the face.

» DIAMOND SHAPED - keep your edges soft and

follow the natural curves of the brow.

» OVAL SHAPED - keep your arch slightly sharp to liftthe shape without leaving your brows too flat.

» SQUARE SHAPED - balance with a peaked arch and

statement brow.

» ROUND SHAPED - evenly balance the eye shape bykeeping plenty of length in the tail portion.

When it comes to choosing a servicetechnique - threading, tweezing, orwaxing - things can get a little bittricky (or, depending on your priorsalon experiences, downright scary).Nerves can particularly escalate ifyou're attempting an at-home job.Here are some common blundersto avoid:

» Avoid over-plucking: thin browscan tend to make you look olderand give a harsh or unflatteringlook to any face, so go easy on thetweezers and think in terms of facialproportions and balance.

» Don't 'under-arch': keeping yourbrow arches too low will give youa 'tired' or 'sad' look, so opt for anice flattering gradual arch and tail

to open the eye area and achieve ayouthful appearance.

» Try not to overdo it: use a lighttouch when filling in the brows toavoid adding unnecessary dramato your facial features. Sometimesit's better to be under-stated thanover-stated.

» Spacing is everything: the gap

between your brows should be thesame width as your nose point; anybigger and your face will look out ofproportion. Cervellone's golden ruleis no matter what the face shape, thehead of the brow should always startat the bridge of your nose. She saysyou can find this point by verticallyholding your brow pencil up to eitherside of your nose.

DIY BROWSIf you're after a seamlessapplication technique, modeland beauty expert, ElyseKnowles, knows a thing or two.

"I think good looking eyebrows amp up

your make-up cred and can really lift your

eye look. Throughout my career, the model

advice I've been given is to rock your natural

brow shape and simply tidy, colour and

define," says Knowles. Here are some of her

quick tips to achieving the perfect set of

face-framers:

» STEP ONE: add depth with ulta3Eyebrow Pencil ($2.95, ulta3.com.au),using small natural upward strokes to looklike hair.

» STEP TWO: using the built-in brow brush,gently comb the beginning of the brow in itsnatural direction, moving up and out to helpblend product.

» STEP THREE: to complete the perfectbrow, add a sweep of Ardell Brow SculptingClear Gel ($8.99, ardelllashes.com) to keepeverything smooth and perfectly placedthroughout the day.

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WH<SFeditor Katelyn Swallowtook cosmetically tattooedbrows for a test-drive toachieve the arches of herbeauty dreams

THE TECHNICIAN:

DaniWylie//@cosmetictattooingbydani

THE EXPERIENCE: Tucked away in little oldBerwick, Victoria, I met the friendly andimmaculately presented Dani Wylie at thedoor of her at-home salon. Considering Ihad never had a serious cosmetic procedure(unless an ear piercing counts?), let alone atattoo, nerves were definitely a factor; butWylie's friendly demeanor, white-washedhomely salon and numerous certificationsplastering the wall helped to put me at ease.

To be honest, I'd never been someonewho cared much for my brows; theynaturally balanced that thin line betweenbushy and sparse - with a boring yet nothorrendous looking shape - so a pluck,thread or wax every two months was aboutall the maintenance time I allowed. I'dnever even thought about owning a browpencil and I rarely even brushed. Thatsaid, Id had more than one jealousy-tingedmoment looking at the arches of my favoriteInstagram fitspos. So when this road testcame up and Wylie said jump, I answeredwith 'how high?'

After signing all the relevant consentforms and explaining the crux of theprocedure, Wylie applied the numbingcream to my brows and, after twentyminutes, we were ready to go. I'm not goingto lie - it hurt; and the longer it went, themore the pain seemed to increase. While thenumbing cream dampened any sharp senseof pain, there was still a serious scratchingsensation that lasted two seconds at a timeas scalpel-like instrument hit brow, whichwas more annoying than anything else; thekind of pain that makes your eyes water andmakes you seriously consider slapping herhand away.

Thankfully, after about 20 minutes (10per brow) it was all over and I could take anervous squiz in the mirror.

THE RESULT: The great thing about thisprocedure is you have a pretty good sense ofcontrol and you can easily imagine the shapebefore it's permanently inked: Wylie useda number of nifty tools to draw the outlineof my new brows before commencing,meaning I could make adjustments whereI felt necessary. My greatest concern wascolouring - being a blonde, I was cautious ofdrastically contrasting dark brows (SesameStreet's Oscar the Grouch came to mind), soI asked for the lightest brown possible.

I have to admit, the first glance in themirror was a shock: while I liked the shape,my new arches seemed strange and foreign

on a face I'd known for the last 25 years, andoh-so-dark. Even with Wylie's assurancesthey would fade, I spend the next weekparanoid that people were staring androlling my eyes as I tried to shower withoutgetting them wet. The things we do.

THE VERDICT: I absolutely love my newbrows. It took less than a week for them tofade to a completely natural tone and I lovethe way they now frame my face, makingme look and feel 'cleaner' and more defined.Given the outline is now clear, plucking isa cinch (I haven't even bothered to book awaxing appointment since) and I've evenbegun experimenting with a brow pencilon special nights out. A simple procedure,but one that I now couldn't imagine goingwithout. •




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