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get informed!

#12 get lost! ISSUE #04 get in the know! The island of Sumba was once noted for its sandalwood, slave trading and headhunting.

text + images: campbell bridge

destination: indonesia

festival held by traditional warriors on the island of Sumba in Indonesia.

Campbell Bridge dodges wayward spears at Pasola, a ritual war

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get in the know! In 1992 the Pasola ritual became a real village war when several people were killed and a large number of homes burned down. ISSUE #04 get lost! #13

THE ISLAND OF SUMBA IS VERY DIFFERENT,even for Indonesia. Wandering aroundTambolaka Airport are Muslim families in their

traditional finest returning from the Haji in Mecca;Javanese and Chinese businessmen; Bugis andMakassan descendants of the pirates who pillagedthe island; and the traditional Sumbanese whoresemble the people of New Guinea more than Asia.

My guide Iwan hustles me off to report to the local chief of police, then we are off toWaikabubak in West Sumba, where the island’sancient festival of Pasola originates. The festivalitself is preceded by several rituals including afasting month (Wula Nyale or Wula Podu) forself-purification, Pajura (traditional boxing) andthe welcoming of strange, multi-headed, worm-like nyale fish.

IT’S RAINING SPEARS


#14 get lost! ISSUE #04

get informed!

While I sleep through my first night to thesound of driving monsoon rain, the village eldersand shaman are engaging in a series of rituals asthey search the pounding surf by the light of themoon. When they discover nyale invading thebeaches, usually several days after a full moon in February and March, the shaman deems thatthe ritual war of Pasola can begin.

A two hour drive early next morning takes us to a goat track on the windswept coastline. As the trees and scrub open out, people emerge innumbers from all directions. Surf crashes overcoral reef nearby as the village shamans stagetheir opening rituals. Villagers, many armed withspears, machetes and other weapons, aredressed in their finest ikat weavings. The buffaloand pigs all look as if they suspect their fate in the name of sacrifice.

I’m introduced to Martinus, the villageheadman. He feigns an attack on me and thengoes about his official duties, nonchalantlytaking up his spear and dispatching numeroustethered pigs. Amid the chanting of the shamanand buzz of the crowd a pig is speared butsomehow manages to escape. To the crowd’samusement it does a brisk runner as dozens ofvillage boys set out in howling pursuit of theirwounded prey. The tethered buffalo isn’t

afforded the same opportunity to flee and is slaughtered with a single machete blow.

Several thousand people have gathered aroundan open area the size of a rugby field. Suddenlythe crowd stirs and parts as horsemen wearingtraditional ikat dress – and the occasionaldesigner shirt – clutch their spears atopdecorated horses. No saddles, no stirrups and rudimentary rope bridles. This is definitelynot Flemington.

Two teams of thirty or more riders, usuallyrepresenting a particular village, gather atopposite ends of the field. After the shaman’sfinal incantations the Pasola begins.

Horsemen rush from behind their ‘goal line’feining, threatening and cajoling the enemy.Insults are hurled energetically at oppositionriders by the crowd, their equestrian andmasculine deficiencies the subject of ridicule.

A solitary rider gallops towards the opposition,taunts them, and turns for home while only justout of spear throwing range. Timing is critical. Thelaw – which has only been enacted in relativelyrecent times – ensures that spears are notsharpened, but they remain lethal weapons.

Suddenly, a number of horsemen gallop at fullspeed towards an intended victim, letting fly with a volley of spears. Many miss; some find their

mark, sending the target crashing from his horse to the ground. The crowd erupts.

A good Pasola, from both religious and crowdpleasing perspectives, requires bloodshed. The ritual is believed to have a close relation tothe village crops. Any bloodshed of sacrificialanimals or of the men participating in the game is considered a symbol of prosperity. Withoutblood, Pasola means nothing to the people ofthis land.

As I watch, lying in my dirt bunker within feet of thundering hooves, both sides chargesimultaneously. Horses shower earth on me. I dodge a wayward spear. A local comments, “Last year a German was speared in the neck.” This festival is dangerous,even for spectators.

Miraculously, manyhorsemen not only evadeassailants’ spears, but are ableto catch them at full gallop andhurl them back at the thrower.

Any bloodshed of sacrificial animals or of the men participating in the game is considered a symbol of prosperity. Without blood, Pasola means nothing to the people of this land.

’’’’


#16 get lost! ISSUE #04 get in the know! The Europeans first discovered Sumba and its nearby islands in 1512, when the Portuguese arrived in Flores via the Moluccas.

Getting ThereBy air. Sumba has two airports, Tambolaka (WestSumba) and Waingapu (East Sumba). SingaporeAirlines, Qantas and Garuda Indonesia all haveregular flights from Australian cities to Jakarta andDenpasar. There are then several weekly flightsconnecting to Sumba.

By sea. It’s possible to reach Sumba by ferry from Floresand Timor. Pelni Lines has passenger ship services.

VisasTourists to Indonesia can get a 30 day visa on arrivalfor AUD$35.

When To GoTwo Pasolas take place in February in the Kodiarea and the Lamboya area and two take place in March in Wanokaka area and at Goura. Theprecise date (usually several days after the fullmoon) is determined by the local shaman and isdependant upon the arrival of the nyale on thebeaches. The dates are somewhat flexible and arenever known until a few weeks before each event(January at the earliest).

Unless you have a lot of time and luck, it is strongly advisable to obtain the services of a local Indonesian travel agent to inform you of the precise dates and arrange transport to theremote venues. Nell Tours based in Makassar(www.nelltours.com) is an established reputableagent and can arrange your trip. Contact Pak Halim.

One rider isn’t so lucky (or skillful) and issmashed in the chest and arm by a spear. He staggers but remains mounted. Blood runsdown his shirt. The crowd surges and cheers.This is what they have hoped for. Their cropsneed it.

As the Pasola continues into the afternoon,the action becomes more frenetic. Riders andhorses are covered in sweat. Adrenaline levelsrise, as do the risks being taken. Riders with adeath wish act as bait, straying ever closer tothe enemy lines before turning. When attackedby the ‘enemy’ their own team mounts a furiouscounter offensive.

Suddenly the crowd howls; something hashappened on-field. Alarmingly, riders dismountand begin fighting on foot. Several hundredspectators rush onto the arena and join in. It is no longer a ritual war. It’s a real one. Weaponsare everywhere. Rocks, spears and manymachetes. Some of the mauling spectatorschase competitors off the Pasola arena andaway over the nearby hills.

We evacuate the area immediately. Suchskirmishes have in the past quickly escalatedinto a full blown war between villages.

The outbreak of violence eventually settles.Those that fled and their pursuing crowd returnand a somewhat more subdued Pasola comesto a conclusion by mid-afternoon. One side isdeclared the winner, passions subside and theritual war of Pasola is over until the arrival ofnext year’s nyale.

As we leave the battlefield, my guide tells methat word “amok” has Indonesian origins. I nowknow why.

ReadLonely Planet’s Indonesia guide, Rough Guide’sIndonesia, Periplus’ East of Bali from Lombok to Timor and Ring of Fire (An Indonesian Odyssey)by Lawrence and Lorne Blair.

SumbaSumba is renowned for its strong traditional culture,spectacular villages, megalithic grave sites and ikatweavings. The island was largely ignored by Asian andEuropean colonial powers for centuries. As a result, itsremarkable culture is still largely intact including verytraditional social structures, strong animist beliefsand spectacular festivals – the most famous of whichis Pasola.

PasolaPasola is a religious festival designed to ensure a bountiful harvest. It takes the form of a ritual war fought by warriors on horseback dressed intraditional clothing, armed with spears but ridingwithout saddles or stirrups. A successful Pasolainvolves bloodshed to ensure a good harvest. Death of participants is not unknown.

Alarmingly, riders dismountand begin fighting on foot.Several hundred spectatorsrush onto the arena and joinin. It is no longer a ritual war.It’s a real one.

There is no referee. Riders must remain onhorseback. Riders also seem to attack each

other only when charging head on. Generally, ridersare never speared in the back.

No allowance or concession is made fortourists. The event I saw was witnessed by five

bule (Indonesian slang for white folk) in a crowd ofperhaps 10,000 locals. It is a wonderful spectacle.

Despite the negative nature of governmenttravel warnings, the people of Indonesia

and Sumba are most welcoming and inviting totourists. Be respectful and you will find Sumbaundoubtedly far safer than virtually any large city in the west.

get informed!

’’

’’

Rules – What Rules?!


#40 get lost! ISSUE #04 get in the know! Royal Enfield launched its first motorcycle in 1909, a small 21/4 horsepower V twin-engine machine built in the Swiss tradition.

JERRY AND I ARE NOT JUST IN SEARCH of pristine beaches, the rave party sceneand chilled days lazing the time away.

What we’re really after is a meeting with one of the founders of the Goan way of life, Eight Finger Eddie.

Anjuna, to those in the know, represents theepicentre of the late 60’s hippy trail when droppingout, free love and freedom were the norm andsociety’s conventions were flouted to the extreme.Since 1971, Jerry’s uncle Bobby had spent over15 years in India drifting between hippy hang-outsdown south and spiritual enlightenment up north.Upon hearing of our trip, he crooned, “You can’t goto Goa and not meet up with Eight Finger Eddie!He’s the reason Anjuna’s on the map, man! He was the first, the very first, and the rest followed.”

Our first night in Anjuna is both exciting andsomewhat disappointing. Like all “hot spots” Anjuna seemed to have burnt itself out long agoand whilst there were still no “package” resorts,

the abundance of bungalows, restaurants andshops selling everything from Kingfisher Beer t-shirts to Manali Cream had spread like a fungus from their peaceful origins.

Uncle Bob had told us that to find Eight Finger Eddie and his mate Goa Gill we needed to find Joe Bananas Restaurant. “Eddie’s beengoing there since 1967. Breakfast at midday, an afternoon sleep and back for dinner every day, like clockwork.” Unfortunately, finding Joe Bananas was not an easy task. So after a day acclimatising on Anjuna beach we pick up a couple of Royal Enfield motorcycles and headnorth in search of the legend.

The beach road, north towards Chapora andVagator, is an awesome ride. Riding out of Anjunayou have to go inland through yellow fields with localkids playing cricket on makeshift pitches, all hopingto be the next Tendulkar. Turning north on the mainroad it’s up over lush green hills, back into the treesprotecting the beach and through little villages,

GOA, INDIA

get going!

THE SEARCH FOR EIGHTFINGER EDDIEOur adventurous publisher, Justin Jamieson, counts his blessings on both hands as he goes in search of the dexterously challenged founder of hippie heaven.

SIX DAYS ON AN ENFIELD BULLET IN NORTH GOA

text + images: justin jamieson

destination: india

anjuna

asvembeach

arambool beachvagator beach

mandovi river

arabian sea

M1489 40-41 India Moto_v2.qxd 14/1/05 4:35 PM Page 40

#40 get lost! ISSUE #04 get in the know! Royal Enfield launched its first motorcycle in 1909, a small 21/4 horsepower V twin-engine machine built in the Swiss tradition.

JERRY AND I ARE NOT JUST IN SEARCH of pristine beaches, the rave party sceneand chilled days lazing the time away.

What we’re really after is a meeting with one of the founders of the Goan way of life, Eight Finger Eddie.

Anjuna, to those in the know, represents theepicentre of the late 60’s hippy trail when droppingout, free love and freedom were the norm andsociety’s conventions were flouted to the extreme.Since 1971, Jerry’s uncle Bobby had spent over15 years in India drifting between hippy hang-outsdown south and spiritual enlightenment up north.Upon hearing of our trip, he crooned, “You can’t goto Goa and not meet up with Eight Finger Eddie!He’s the reason Anjuna’s on the map, man! He was the first, the very first, and the rest followed.”

Our first night in Anjuna is both exciting andsomewhat disappointing. Like all “hot spots” Anjuna seemed to have burnt itself out long agoand whilst there were still no “package” resorts,

the abundance of bungalows, restaurants andshops selling everything from Kingfisher Beer t-shirts to Manali Cream had spread like a fungus from their peaceful origins.

Uncle Bob had told us that to find Eight Finger Eddie and his mate Goa Gill we needed to find Joe Bananas Restaurant. “Eddie’s beengoing there since 1967. Breakfast at midday, an afternoon sleep and back for dinner every day, like clockwork.” Unfortunately, finding Joe Bananas was not an easy task. So after a day acclimatising on Anjuna beach we pick up a couple of Royal Enfield motorcycles and headnorth in search of the legend.

The beach road, north towards Chapora andVagator, is an awesome ride. Riding out of Anjunayou have to go inland through yellow fields with localkids playing cricket on makeshift pitches, all hopingto be the next Tendulkar. Turning north on the mainroad it’s up over lush green hills, back into the treesprotecting the beach and through little villages,

GOA, INDIA

get going!

THE SEARCH FOR EIGHTFINGER EDDIEOur adventurous publisher, Justin Jamieson, counts his blessings on both hands as he goes in search of the dexterously challenged founder of hippie heaven.

SIX DAYS ON AN ENFIELD BULLET IN NORTH GOA

text + images: justin jamieson

destination: india

anjuna

asvembeach

arambool beachvagator beach

mandovi river

arabian sea


get in the know! India has no rabbits in the wild – only hares! ISSUE #04 get lost! #41

where beer barns seem to outnumber houses.With warnings of the dangers on India’s roads

ringing loudly in my ears we’re pleasantly surprisedby the roads in Goa. Sure, there is the inevitable semi-trailer taking up the entire road with a bus overtakingevery few kilometres, thus testing the brakes of theEnfields regularly, but so long as you don’t ride likeEvil Knievel things should go smoothly.

The guidebooks are right in that Chapora andVagator have both suffered from the spread of thetourist trail from Anjuna. We pull our bikes up at thetop of Vagator Beach and look north at the stunningcoastline weaving it’s way through rocky enclavesand unspoilt beaches and contemplate forgingahead. The lure of a famous “rave party” keeps us in Vagator for the night however, and we delay oursearch for Joe Bananas and its infamous patron.

We woke early after a monster evening at Club Merc, where I met the happiest man in India: “I am so happy! You must buy this pill! I am taking

one at nine o’clock! It is twelve o’clock and stillhappy!” We declined, but still managed a greatnight. We now headed north again, looking forwardnot only to meeting Eight Fingers but also to a couple of evenings of really chilling out andenjoying the surroundings.

The main beauty of motorcycle travel is that youare free to explore. The sites, sounds and smellssurround you and not being enclosed in a vehicleseems to stimulate the senses, inspiring theadventurous spirit.

We cruise over the bridge crossing the MandoviRiver. Looking left the river mouth opens up to theArabian Sea with fishermen cleaning nets andchildren swimming along the shores. Inland, theriver snakes into the hills with women washing on the riverbanks and the green foliage growing

denser as the river disappears.A sign promoting a bar restaurant called Silent

again interrupts our once precious mission and forthe next three nights we experience the true Goa.Delicious Goan curries for breakfast, lunch anddinner; each costing less than a pack of jelly snakesback home. We’ve our own stilted bungalows, tensteps from the sea. Made from bamboo with asmall balcony, they were simply furnished with amini ceiling fan, double bed with mosquito net andsingle bulb light. Yet, with a view straight out thedoor from the bed to the peaceful, near emptybeach, we felt like we were blessed with life’s riches.

We had spent a couple of nights in Mumbaibefore heading to Goa at the much vaunted TajMahal Hotel, a stunning 5 star beauty, the pride of Indian architecture, each room with its ownbutler. In all honesty though, when it comes to serenity, the Taj could not compare to my $5 bungalow on Asvem Beach.

Our days consisted of morning explorations intothe towns further north including Arambool Beach,where the hippies have supposedly migrated to, andinland up into the hills through small agriculturalvillages, inhabited by apparently content locals,waving as we pass. The afternoons are loungedaway; stomachs full of chicken makhani and aloogobi, washed down with ice cold Kingfisher beersbrought out by our new friend Sachin.

A snooze in the evening sun is disturbed by thelocals setting up a cricket oval on the beach and tochants of “Glenn McGrath, Glenn McGrath” I storm inoff a long run almost dislocating my shoulder in anattempt to live up to their expectations. Two sixesand two fours off my first over from a kid who looksabout seven and I’m spelled to long off never toreturn. Proving handier with the bat they start to

chant “Hayden’s a wanker!” I’m clean bowled soonafter by an old guy who I’m sure was chucking.

On the third day we realise that time is runningout to track down Eight Fingers. Sachin, whoseems to know everyone and everything, tells us that Joe Bananas is actually back in the treesbehind the famous Anjuna Wednesday Flea Marketso we leap onto our metal steeds and gallop backdown to Anjuna.

It’s Wednesday and the flea market is teethingwith hippies, drop outs, package tourists,backpackers, locals and the like. We wadethrough to the back streets and there amongst a group of local houses, a dilapidated old sign out front, is Joe Bananas. A courtyard covered in overgrown vines shelters a few tables with aneclectic group sitting randomly amongst them.Whilst Jerry wanders inside to order some food I spot an elderly man, old and rake thin (pictureMick Jagger in another 50 years after beingcrossed with Keith Richards).

“It couldn’t be,” I think aloud. Then, as I checkmy watch to see if we’re on time, sure enough hereaches for his orange juice with his right hand,which is missing both ring and pinky.

“It’s Eight Finger Eddie, it’s Eight Finger Eddie!” I tell Jerry.

“Are you sure?”A quick mental sum of ten minus two and I’m

positive (would be embarrassing if he was SevenFinger Stephen).

After a quick introduction Eddie proves to be a thorough gentleman, kindly enquiring if Uncle Bob is still alive (I imagine that is a common queryfrom Eddie about his old friends). Eddie dropped out nearly forty years ago. He has seen Anjuna backwhen it was nothing but nudity and naughtinessthrough to the ever developing package toursswarming over the famous flea market. He venturedup to Vagator then further again to Arambool, butinevitably he found his way back to Anjuna and Joe Bananas. It is now his home and it is hard to imagine a man more content.

I am so happy! You must buy this pill! I am taking oneat nine o’clock! It is twelve o’clock and still happy!

MOTORBIKESPECIAL

’’

’’


#88 get lost! ISSUE #04

It’s been a long day of photographing and you’relooking forward to mulling over the imagesyou’ve captured while sipping on a relaxing

drink. But hold off reaching for that sundowner,because while the sun may disappear eachevening, great photo-opportunities don’t. In fact, if you can master its tricks, night time photography will have you viewing – andcapturing – the world in a whole new light.

We live in an age of light pollution wheresunlight is often superfluous. As dusk falls,buildings light up like Christmas trees and cities from New York to Novokuznetsk come alive with an incandescent electrical glow thatpresents travel snappers with both challengesand rewards. But many night photographers are often disappointed with the results of theirefforts. Images turn out too dark, or blurred, and often both. But if you follow our simple rules, you too can find the light in the dark.

Don’t Wait Too LongThe single most important thing that you can do to improve your night photography is to shootbefore the sky gets too dark. A dusk sky – thathour after the sun dips below the horizon – willrender in the final picture as an atmospheric darkblue or even dark purple – rather than an inkyblackness. Your images will look more balancedand you will capture detail in parts of yoursubject that aren’t particularly illuminated to the naked eye.

Fill The FrameIf you do take pictures after the sky has become black, then you should crop in close to the subject, filling the frame with as much light as possible. This will make the picture moreinteresting. A creative way of doing this is to usereflections to add to the image, whether by usingwater such as with this palace in Budapest (right), or even lights on wet roads or pavements.Filling the frame will also help the camera to better select the correct exposure.

Beware ContrastIf you have a light source and a lit subject in the same picture, the contrast will be too great for them to both render correctly, and generallyspeaking the camera will set exposure for thebrightest point. To approximate this effect youshould try squinting. You will be able to see the highlights, but no detail in the darker areas.

To correct for this, take your light reading froman average lit part of the scene. For instance in a street scene, crop out the street lights and take a light reading from the road or a floodlit building.If you are photographing a group of people rounda bonfire, take the light reading from the people.In both cases, light parts in the picture will bleachout completely when you take the final picture,but this will make the image more dramatic. You should also try taking a few pictures atdifferent exposures to make sure that you getone with a good exposure. This is called bracketing.

Get More LegsTo get good night shots you will need a tripod.Carrying one is a pain when you are travelling but is always worth the trouble, although if you have a compact camera you can get away with a verysmall ‘table-top’ tripod. Without one, your pictureswill show camera shake – when the cameramoves during exposure. You should also use a cable release if your camera has the ability to plug one in, as this will stop you vibrating the camera when you press the shutter release.Cheaper cameras don’t tend to take a cablerelease, but they often have self-timers which do a similar thing – just as good albeit a slowerprocess! If you don’t have a tripod, prop yourcamera on any flat surface – such as a wall or a table. Some people advocate bean-bags, but youneed quite a heavy camera to make them work.

get in the know! Hungarian-born photographer Brassai photographed Paris by night in the 1930s. None of his pictures had people in them.

right: The reflections from this palace in Budapest have helpedbalance the image, filling the frame with light and colour, despitethe fact that the sky is completely black.

thestillofthenightSteve Davey looks at

the tricks of the trade of night photography.

get answers!

text + images: steve davey

destination: worldwide

M1489 88-90 Get Snap_v2.qxd 11/1/05 12:19 PM 8

ISSUE #04 get lost! #89get in the know! Diopter correction lens on a camera viewfinder allows people to focus without wearing glasses.

above left: A classic shot of the Eiffel Tower, with thefloodlights balanced by the colour left in the sky.

above right: Mixing fill-in flash with a long exposure and movement gives a dynamic shot of a London bus passing neon lights.

NIGHTPHOTOGRAPHY

M1489 88-90 Get Snap_v2.qxd 11/1/05 12:19 PM Page 89

and available light. This will still freeze anymotion, but will also allow the ambient light to register. This is a good setting for parties and clubs, as it will make your pictures much more exciting.

InteriorsJust because there is a lot of ambient light outside at night, this doesn’t mean that you should avoid interiors. For many people, bars,cafes and clubs are more synonymous with the nightlife of many cities than old floodlitbuildings. Again, try to avoid using flash. A tripod or stable setting for your camera – to facilitate longer exposures – is almostmandatory in these situations.

Ultimate Night PhotographyIt is possible to take night shots even if there are no artificial lights. The moon gives out a surprising amount of light – especially when it is full. You will need to give an exposure of at least ten minutes, but you should ‘bracket’widely just to make sure you get a correctexposure. With exposures this long, the stars will move in your picture giving interesting light trails.

#90 get lost! ISSUE #04 get in the know! The Hubble Space Telescope has been taking night photographs since 1990. See them on www.hubblesite.org

How to shoot anything that moves, fromcamel racing in India to Thai boxing.

an awesome Crumpler bag when you send in yourbest photo based on these tips to get lost! magazine.

Send all entries to [email protected] (Files can not be any larger than 5meg)WIN!

WINNER: CONGRATULATIONS MATT MACKAY FOR HIS WINNING PHOTO OF WILASA GETTING A HAIRCUT, SRI LANKA. www.crumpler.com.au

Many cameras – evensome quite simple ones – have a featurewhereby you can mix flash and available light.

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background image: Overlooking the city of Malaga. Taking the picturewhen there is still light in the sky means that there is much more detail in the final image.

far left: Flash gives a fairly unattractive and harsh light source, but it isgood for freezing movement such as this bull run at the Feria de Nimes.

above: Ultimate night photography – a 15 minute exposure of Uluru bymoonlight. The exposure was so long that the stars have moved: hencethe trails in the sky.

Get BlurredThere are times when you want to have blur and movement in the shot. Having people andespecially cars moving during the exposure can make for a more dynamic image, the blurimmediately indicating ‘action’. It can often be difficult to set longer exposures on a simple,point and shoot camera, where you don’t havemanual control. One way to get the longestspeeds possible is to manually switch the flash off, forcing the camera to rely on available light.

Get FlashIn general, flash guns are pretty useless to light a scene. They give horribly harsh light and only work on a single plane: anything in frontwill be too light, everything in behind will be toodark. In-built flashes are also pathetically weak,and only effective for a few feet in front of thecamera. That being said, sometimes flash can be useful, for instance when freezing movementsuch as this bull run in France (above), and toprovide secondary ‘fill’ light.

In The MixMany cameras – even some quite simple ones – have a feature whereby you can mix flash

M1489 88-90 Get Snap_v2.qxd 11/1/05 12:19 PM Page 90

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