Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Magazine - Summer 2011

Contents

CONTENTS

COLUMNS

GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 3

11-12LONDON LIFE

13-15NEWS

62-65WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

• Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters

• Domaine du Deffends: when

dreams become reality

74-75NEW YORK LIFE

81-82FAMILY BUSINESS

• Bill Deutsch,

WJ Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.

98-99 WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

• Jonathan Grieve: South African

creator of nature-friendly wines

100-102ORGANIC NEWS

• Do organic wines age well?

104-105 WINE QUOTATIONS

• Port and Madeira: Mythical

wines that live (almost) forever

106-107QUALITY FACTORS

• What’s the point of pruning?

108-110STARS AND WINE

GILBERT & GAILLARD

THE WORLDWIDE WINE SIGNATURE

SUBSCRIPTIONS2 YEARS 43.90 € - 1 YEAR 23.60 €

SEE ON PAGE 38

GILBERT & GAILLARD

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4 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011

CONTENTS

ContentsREPORTS

16-35COVER STORYTHE BEST 2010 WINES FROM FRANCE, ITALY AND THE USA• Bordeaux Primeur 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard picks

• Premium Italian wines prove their excellence

• The best of what might be: A taste of the top American Wines from 2010

PLEASE GIVE US YOURFEEDBACK

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PAPER

39-44HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS • Bordeaux: The Keys to success

45-51TRAVEL• Provence: A look at the five main rosé wine areas

52-61QUALITY FACTORS• Rosés stay the course

66-72REGION• The drive for quality in Languedoc

75-80TRAVEL• Discovery trip in Indiana

83-88HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS • Italy’s indigenous grape varieties

89-93REGION• Do Ribera del Duero, A Spanish stand-out

94-97WINE AND FOOD• Gilles Goujon : collecting stars

111-114RECOMMENDED WINES

FRANÇOIS GILBERT


The development of wine on the web has been

surprising, but inevitable. Only ten years ago, most of us

thought that selling wine on the internet would never

work. Today, if you type ‘buy wine online’ into a search

engine, you receive over 858,000 hits! Wine has

effortlessly gone digital. We see evidence of this daily on

our own website, which gets several thousand visits a day

from people in countries around the world. In response

to demand, we have created English, Chinese and

Japanese versions of our site, to transmit the information

in our international wine guides.

Our latest innovation is the development of the

Gilbert & Gaillard iPhone application, available since

May, which allows users to consult our scores and

reviews of the wines we have tasted, as well as a

geolocation feature that indicates nearby wineries or

estates. An Android application will be available in the

autumn.

Print, of course, has not disappeared and certainly has

a long future ahead of it, but the impact of the

digital revolution has already been significant and

is increasing daily.

Note: Our website www.gilbertgaillard.com is now

available in Chinese and Japanese.

François GilbertEditorial director

www.gilbertgaillard.com

Wine goes online

PHILIPPE GAILLARD


Until recently, the Chinese wine market

consisted of two main segments: well-known and

expensive wines sought by the wealthy, and bottom-

range wines sold at very low prices. Today, a new market

segment is developing for wines between

3 and 7 euros - the challenge in this segment will be

for winemakers to establish their brands.

Few are aware that China recently became the 7th largest

wine producer in the world, particularly due to groups

such as Changyu and Dynasty. This was a deciding factor

when we chose to publish our wine guide in Chinese;

because when a country begins to produce wine,

it also takes on the values and culture associated with

drinking it. This edition of the Chinese guide includes

mainly French and other European wines, as well as

American wines, but we intend to eventually add

Chinese wines tasted at our Gilbert & Gaillard

office in Shanghai. Chinese wine drinkers will want

information on domestic wines as well as

imported wines - and we will be there to provide it.

Philippe GaillardEditorial director


Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide in Chinese


SYLVAIN PATARDSYLVAIN PATARD


Publishing our wine guide in English!

A brilliant idea: making us the first guide to French

wine aimed at English-speaking wine drinkers.

This new concept saw the light of day in 2008.

This is also when we began to increase our staff of

international tasters and were joined by Delphine

Veissière (Italy), Emmanuel de Lanversin and

Jamal Rayyis (United States) and Thomas Magnani

(China). Soon after, we opened Gilbert & Gaillard

offices in these countries in order to build relationships

with local winemakers and importers.

These developments have been fundamental in our

ability to closely monitor these huge markets.

The English version of the third edition of the

Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide will come out

this autumn. It is the sole international wine

guide created by a French publisher, and an ideal

vector for championing our French and European

emphasis on wines based on the expression of terroir

to a global audience.

Sylvain PatardEditor in chief

Taking French wine tothe world

LONDON LIFE


Spring is always one of the busiest times of the wine trade calendar.Merchants, importers and sommeliers are finalising their new winelists and London is awash with winemakers and salespeople lookingto promote their wares. All of this culminates in mid-May with theLondon International Wine Fair at the Excel Centre - the perfectopportunity to catch up with industry friends and colleagues over dinner!

Mark’s favourite venues

AWARDED BY MICHELIN GUIDE

Kitchen W8 11-13 Abingdon RoadLondon W8 6AH Tel. +44 (0)207 937 0120www.kitchenw8.com

The Ledbury and The Square are two of myfavourite restaurants, so I have beenmeaning to visit Kitchen W8 (all areowned by Phillip Howard) since it openedin 2009. The fact that the latest MichelinGuide had awarded it a star made me evenmore curious.

The décor is clean and contemporary, whilethe menu is surprisingly well priced (moststarters sub-£10 and mains around £20). Itwas a warm evening and I was in the moodfor seafood so I started with a ravioli of tigerprawns and octopus. To wash down theentrees we enjoyed a bottle of Jean-MarcBoillot’s excellent Montagny 1er Cru (£50),although the great value Picpoul de Pinetfrom Chateau de la Mirande (£22) was awell-priced alternative.

All of the main courses sounded delicious,but I went for the sea bream and wasn’tdisappointed. Continuing the Chardonnaytheme but looking for something a bitbigger, we took Leeuwin’s fabulous ArtSeries Chardonnay from Margaret River inAustralia (£85), certainly one of the NewWorld’s finest examples of the varietal.

The service was attentive, the food wasexcellent and the wine list well chosen.While Kitchen W8 has some way to go tobetter Phillip’s two star establishments, it ispriced much more affordably and offersimpressive value for money.

A BRILLIANT CONCEPT

Kensington Wine Rooms 127 - 129 Kensington Church Street London W8 7LP Tel. +44 (0)207 727 8142 www.greatwinesbytheglass.com

One of the newer additions to Notting Hill’ssocial scene is Kensington Wine Rooms - abrilliant concept for wine lovers and onethey have since replicated in Fulham. Theexpertly selected wine list runs to 150 bins,40 of which are available by the glass fromself-service Enomatic machines that line thewalls. It is an innovative set up thatencourages experimentation and is a lot offun for any wine geek.

It’s not just about wine though. There is awell-priced menu of European dishes that

“focuses on quality ingredients, well sour-ced, cooked without excessive fuss”. By wayof an aperitif we got started with one ofmy favourite NV Champagnes, Jacquesson734 (£69) which was perfect for washingdown some pan-fried scallops. For the maincourse I chose a rack of lamb and whatbetter way to accompany it than with abottle of Roc des Anges (£33.60) - fantasticvalue from the Roussillon.

It’s clear that Kensington Wine Rooms hasbeen created by wine lovers, for wine lovers.On the evidence of the atmosphere that Iencountered there, there are plenty of thosewine lovers in West London.

Mark Andrew

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LONDON INTERNATIONAL WINE FAIR

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3days, 3000 producers, 20,000 winesand 13,745 visitors (up by 61 on last

year). The LIWF is one of the world’s mostimportant wine trade events and one thatseems to conjure excitement and dread inequal measure for those of us that attendeach year. In addition to providing a promo-tional platform for the usual mix of impor-ters, agents, regional bodies, national asso-ciations and mega brands, the fair has a com-prehensive programme of seminars and dis-cussion panels that feature the industry’sleading experts and tackle many of the mostimportant trends and contemporary issues.

Two subjects in particular dominated theagenda this year - how to survive the tougheconomic conditions, and the importanceof the Internet and social media. The latterled to the creation of an area called theAccess Zone that played host to a series ofseminars during the three days of the fair.James Murray, Event Director of LIWF said“There’s absolutely no doubt that this hasto be a part of the way forward. It’s integralthat the industry sits up and pays attention”.This commitment to technology’s role in thefuture of wine is admirable and thebuzz surrounding the Access Zone confirmedthat many of the visitors agree. Discussionabout how to prosper in a difficult markettook on a variety of forms (reflecting thediversity of the visitors), including a betterunderstanding of the consumer, dealingwith the weakness of sterling and findingnew ways to approach packaging and labeldesign.

Out on the floor, the mood was encouraginglyoptimistic, with many exhibitors feeling

that the fair provides them with a uniqueopportunity to speak to the British winetrade. Matteo Catania of Sicilian winery Gulfiwas relishing the opportunity to show hisrange of wines, saying “the UK market is veryimportant to us and one that we want todevelop, so the chance to meet so manypotential clients is too good to miss”. JonPepper is Managing Director at BuckinghamSchenk, one of the UK’s largest suppliers tosupermarkets and an exhibitor at the fair formany years. For the last few shows,Buckingham Schenk have enhanced theirpresence by mooring a three-masted ship onthe quay behind Excel, where they conductmeetings and tastings. Pepper said “We seeLIWF as an essential part of our corporatemarketing strategy. It’s great for networkingand an important opportunity to see all of ourcustomers. Having the boat mooredalongside is a good way to differentiate our-selves from our competitors and allows us toentertain all our key customers and partners.”

The fair has also proven to be a great wayfor regional and national bodies to promote

their brand and the quality of their wines.One of the best organised of these is theLanguedoc & Roussillon’s ”Sud de France”,who used the show to announce the resultsof their Prestige Wines competition as wellas shining a light on the quality and valuethat the region has to offer. Sébastien duBoullay said “London Wine Fair is a greatopportunity for Sud de France to bring overproducers that are looking for representation.With more than 500 visitors to our stand, itis clear that there is great interest in theUK for Languedoc-Roussillon wines.”

So after a tiring three days of non-stop tastingand talking, it appears that the LIWF stillhas what it takes to attract a large andenthusiastic audience.

However, it is increasingly obvious that theshow is of different relevance to differentsectors. With the resounding success of theNatural Wine Fair and the SpecialistImporters Trade Tasting (SITT), not tomention anecdotal conversations withmany of my industry colleagues in theindependent retail and restaurant sectors,the fair seems to be loosing some relevancefor those operating at the higher end of thetrade. As the buyer for an independentmerchant that specialises in selling to”high involvement” customers (both thepublic and sommeliers), I don’t go toLIWF ‘looking’ for new wines to list.Rather, it is an opportunity to touch basewith a lot of people in a short period oftime and a chance for me to revisit theportfolios of some of our competitors. Itwould be nice to think that a lot of small,boutique wineries would come to LIWFwaiting to be ‘discovered’, but the reality isthat the fair seems to be heading in the otherdirection and becoming increasinglydominated by the big agents and the bigbrands.


LONDON LIFE


NEWS

A VERY STYLISHCHAMPAGNE

Since its creation in 1785, theChampagne house Piper-Heidsieckhas collaborated with top designers.In 1999, Jean-Paul Gaultier dressedup a bottle of Piper-HeidsieckChampagne in a red corset. Today,the designer has updated the ideausing new materials such as fishnetand latex, giving the bottle aParisian touch of seduction. Thebottle sells for 200 euros and comeswith a black varnished wine chaliceand a fishnet Champagne bucket. Itis available at Nikki Beach inCannes and La Maison Blanche inParis. This original idea is totally inkeeping with the image of Piper-Heidsieck, the party Champagne parexcellence.

THE RETURNOF A LEGEND

Banned since thefirst decades of the1900s, absinthe has recently been reintroduced inFrance under thename of Versintheby the Liquoristeriede Provence, a distillery that specialises in reviving the spiritsand liqueurs of Provence’s past inorder to protect their heritage. For overtwo years, Versinthe will be the onlyplant-based absinthe liqueur availablelegally in France. To reach a wider public,a Versinthe smartphone application isplanned, which will offer a large choiceof different cocktails that you can makeat home. Versinthe is available for 25euros a bottle from the Liquoristerie deProvence shop in Venelles, near Aix-en-Provence, or from websites such as: www.absinthefrenchmanspoon.com or www.nice-art.com

OLIVE OIL TASTING AT THEDOMAINE DE LA ROYRIE

On a site founded in the 15th century,the olive groves of the Domaine de laRoyrie on the Côte d’Azur producegrand cru organic olive oil. The estate’solive oils are labelled Appellationd’Origine Protégée AOP Nice Olive Oil,a guarantee of quality. They have fragrant,elegant, bold aromas reminiscent ofhazelnut, ripe olive and fresh almond.The estate won a gold medal at the 2011Concours Général Agricole de Paris. Theinventor of oléologie, or olive tasting, theDomaine de la Royrie offers olive oiltasting courses as well as culinaryworkshops. It is located in Grasse, nearNice, in the Alpes-Maritimes. For moreinformation, visit their website:www.oelologie.fr


NEWS

Lidewij van Wilgen left a career in advertising and a comfortablelife in Amsterdam to become a winemaker in the South ofFrance. Nine years later the wines of Mas des Dames are seen assome of the best in Languedoc. About her struggle to learn thiswhole new trade and to adapt to a life far from the city she wrotean exiting book: The Domain. A gripping read about determination,passion and love.. and about wine, of course. A must- have forwine lovers, highly recommended for everyone else. Now all weneed is a translation in English...

ALL WE NEED IS… A TRANSLATION!

NEWS


FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

CHAMPAGNE P. Lassalle-HaninBrut 1er cru Cuvée FloraleLight gold. The nose showsabundant freshness andintermixes floral and fruitynotes. Fleshy palate framed by refinedeffervescence. The aromas don a pleasant crisp tone andthe finish retains abundant freshness. A party sparkler.

88/100

SANCERRE A.C. Michel VattanCuvée Argile 2010Light yellow with greenishtints. Profound nose intermixingnotes of citrus fruit and silica.Full-bodied, well-structured with the fat on entryflowing into a livelier finish. Long and harmoniousacross the palate.

88/100

CHAMPAGNE Marquis de PomereuilRosé des Riceys 2006Orangy hue. Open nosewith notes of dried fruits,fruit butter and mild spices.Supple palate framed by fat,full and persistent. The dried fruit aromatics flow intooaked notes on the finish. Drink with poultry.

86/100


COVER STORY

We have visited the best wineries in France, Italy and the United

States to bring you the latest information that all wine enthusiasts

have been eagerly awaiting - reviews of the 2010 vintage of premium

wines. For Bordeaux wines, we have exclusively tasted the 2010

vintage en primeur, as is

the tradition in France. In

I ta ly and the Uni ted

States, we also tasted

v in tages f rom o ther

years (in particular, 2005,

2006, 2007, 2008 and

2009), which confirmed

t he qua l i t y a nd t h e

consistency of these fine

wines. In the following

pages, you will find our

reviews and assessments

in detail, along with our

tasting scores.

The best 2010 wines fromFrance, Italy and the USA

COVER STORY


Léoville Barton, Léoville Poyferré,

Brane Cantenac, Fieuzal, Figeac

and La Gaffelière reds; Domaine

de Cheva l i e r and Châ t eau

Carbonnieux whites; Châteaux

Rabaud-Promis and Do isy-

Védrines Sauternes: here are our

top ten picks of 2010 Bordeaux

primeurs from a week spent wine

tasting in April.

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Bordeaux primeurs 2010:Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks

As a result of the summer-long drought last year in

Bordeaux, the 2010 vintage beats all previous records in

terms of phenol concentration and alcohol content.

However, compared to 2009, the month of August was rather cool,

so the wines, particularly the Cabernets, retain a slightly higher

level of acidity.

2010: RECORD-BREAKINGCONCENTRATIONIn our view, the 2010 vintage is most successful when the purity

and freshness of the fruit takes precedence over strength and

concentration. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. This

year, on both the right and left banks of the Gironde River, we

again find high-alcohol wines that are highly concentrated,

extremely dense, robust and hot, reinforced by the dominant

presence of oak. This type of wine makes a strong impression,

without a doubt, but provides little pleasure. We might do well to

wonder if these wines’ powerful build is a guarantee that it will

age well. The dry, sometimes vegetal tannins and the sensation of

heat found in certain wines of this style could cast doubt on this.


COVER STORY

THE PREMIERS CRUS REMAIN DEPENDABLEMost of the grand classics, premiers crus and certain grands crus

make out rather well this year, effortlessly proving their worth as

ageing wines by uniting density, strength and balance. Lafite,

Latour and Haut-Brion command attention; Margaux, Cheval

Blanc and Montrose lean more towards fruit … The characteristics

of ‘solidity’ that stand out in the 2010 vintage will no doubt

delight certain American reviewers and enthusiasts of big,

full-bodied, oak-laden wines.

FRESHNESS,BALANCE, ELEGANCEFor our part, we remain proponents of more ethereal wines that

possess the structure required in a great wine, while emphasising

fruit and freshness and a more limited use of oak. In addition to

these qualities, in our tastings we looked for good ageing

potential, and we found some 2010 wines that very successfully

combine fresh, fruity aromas with a concentration and strength

that is not excessive. These were the wines we preferred. Of these,

this year, red fruit gets the honours: a sharp, acidic, distinctive red

fruit that deliciously appeals to the nose and palate. But although

the flavours are subtle, these wines also have structure and

intensity. In our view, they best represent the 2010 vintage and

certainly have the potential to improve with age as well as, if not

better than, their muscular cousins. We introduce the marvellous

Léoville Barton as evidence to make our case: structured, subtle,

smooth, fresh… pure bliss.

WHAT WILLTHE FUTURE BRING?Primeur tasting is a sensitive exercise, as most of the wines are in

their infancy. Our results, obtained from blind tastings (apart

from a few winemakers who refuse to participate in group tastings -

one might ask why), are therefore a snapshot of wines at a given

moment in time. And as we have said, in the snapshot we have

taken we have favoured fruit, freshness, elegance and balance (at the

present time) rather than power and strength. Moreover, the past

has shown that wines with the best ageing potential are not always

those we might think.

We will of course be tasting the 2010 wines again when they are

bottled. Nothing guarantees that at that point the list of winners

will be the same. Wine is a question of patience, not of prediction.

Gilbert & Gaillard

OUR TOP 10

100/100 - Château Léoville Barton 2010Saint-Julien A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855)This was our pick of the year. A deep crimson colour, with a ripe nose

of sharp red fruit and a subtle hint of oak. Full, fresh, dense and silky

mouthfeel. Remarkable structure, with a bold and lingering

finish. A great wine.

99/100 - Château Léoville Poyferré 2010Saint-Julien A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855)A deep crimson colour with a nose of fresh red fruit and a touch of

oak. A fruity acidity on the palate, balanced by a style that is big,

generous and structured. A lively, fresh wine that is a good expression

of the 2010 vintage.

98/100 - Château Brane Cantenac 2010Margaux A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855)A deep crimson colour with a penetrating bouquet of ripe red fruit

delicately balanced with oak. Good density, with a soft, smooth

texture; mellow and powerful. Good balance between concentration

and acidity. A lovely wine.

98/100 - Château Fieuzal 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C.( red wine)After an unadvisable venture in the recent past that saw oak take

precedence over this magnificent terroir, this year Château Fieuzal

has come up with a double win, in both red and white. The red is a

deep crimson, with a concentrated nose that shows off the fruit to its

best advantage. The attack is rich and fleshy with a touch of acidity.

The finish is long, the concentration balanced and elegant. Quite

fresh and lively.

98/100 - Château Figeac 2010Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1st Cru Classé B)This cru classé has the particularity of consisting of more than

two-thirds Cabernet. The vintage has a deep red colour with crimson

highlights and an intense nose of ripe red fruits and lightly toasted oak.

A firm structure with concentrated tannins and an appealing vivacity.

This young wine is still closed, but we liked its structure and purity.

These wines represent, in our opinion, the bestof Bordeaux’s 2010 vintage, from all of theregion’s appellations. In April, we sampledaround 200 wines in blind tastings to create thistop-ten list :

continued on page 20

Bordeaux primeurs 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks


100/100 ChâteauLéoville Barton 2010Saint-Julien A.C.

98/100 ChâteauBrane Cantenac 2010Margaux A.C.

98/100 ChâteauFigeac 2010Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.


COVER STORY

99/100 Domaine de Chevalier 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C.

98/100 ChâteauCarbonnieux 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C.

98/100 ChâteauDoisy VédrinesSauternes-Barsac A.C.



98/100 - Château La Gaffelière 2010Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1st Cru Classé B)Already singled out for its 2009 vintage, Château La Gaffelière has

once again confirmed its rising quality. It is clear that the work of

the consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt has started to pay off. The

colour is deep with crimson highlights. The nose is pure and

exudes red fruit. Warmth on the palate is balanced by freshness,

supported by an elegant tannic structure. The taste of fruit stays on

the palate.

99/100 - Domaine de Chevalier 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C. (white wine)Always a cut above the rest, this Domaine de Chevalier white

establishes itself again this year as unquestionably the best of the

Bordeaux whites. Its pale yellow colour has green tints, and the

nose is of citrus fruits and lime. An attack that is fleshy, while very

smooth and fresh, with sharp, clean, subtle aromas. Long and

ethereal.

98/100 - Château Carbonnieux 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C. (Grand Cru Classé, white wine)A pale yellow colour with an acidic bouquet of lime and citrus. A crisp,

sweetish palate, balanced with the freshness of grapefruit. A fine wine.

99/100 - Château Rabaud-PromisSauternes A.C. (1er Grand Cru classé)A deep golden colour with an intense nose of exotic and candied

fruit. The attack is fleshy but fresh, with good length. A very good,

well-structured wine with a lingering finish.

98/100 - Château Doisy VédrinesSauternes-Barsac A.C. (2e Grand Cru classé)A light golden colour with a rich, concentrated, sharp nose with

hints of citrus and exotic fruits. Exuberant palate of crunchy fruits

and notes of honey and oak. A remarkable vintage.

Pauillac A.C.

98/100 Château Lafite Rothschild 201097/100 Château Latour 201096/100 Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 95/100 Château Lynch Bages 201094/100 Château Duhart Milon 201092/100 Château Clerc Milon 2010 91/100 Les Forts de Latour 2010

ALL OUR PICKS

IN OUR VIEW, THE 2010 VINTAGE IS MOST SUCCESSFUL WHEN THE PURITY AND FRESHNESS OF THE FRUIT TAKES PRECEDENCE

OVER STRENGTH AND CONCENTRATION


COVER STORY

90/100 Carruades de Lafite 2010 90/100 Château d’Armailhac 2010 89/100 Château Pédesclaux 201087/100 Château Croizet Bages 2010

Saint-Estèphe A.C.

96/100 Château Montrose 201094/100 Château Cos Labory 201094/100 Château Cos d’Estournel 2010 90/100 Château Lafon Rochet 2010

Margaux A.C.

98/100 Château Margaux 201098/100 Château Brane Cantenac 201096/100 Château d’Issan 201096/100 Château Rauzan Segla 201095/100 Château Kirwan 201094/100 Château Lascombes 201094/100 Château Malescot Saint-Exupery 201093/100 Château Rauzan Gassies 201093/100 Château Cantenac Brown 2010 93/100 Château Prieuré Lichine 201091/100 Château Boyd Cantenac 201091/100 Château Desmirail 201091/100 Château Ferrière 201091/100 Pavillon de Margaux 201090/100 Château Marquis de Terme 201089/100 Château Pouget 2010

Saint-Julien A.C.

100/100 Château Léoville Barton 201099/100 Château Léoville Poyferré 201096/100 Château Branaire Ducru 201095/100 Château Saint-Pierre 201094/100 Château Lagrange 201093/100 Château Langoa Barton 201092/100 Château Talbot 201090/100 Château Beychevelle 2010

Sauternes and Barsac A.C.

99/100 Château Rabaud-Promis 201098/100 Château Doisy Védrines 201097/100 Château d’Yquem 201096/100 Château Doisy-Daëne 201096/100 Château Lamothe Guignard 201096/100 Château Romer 201095/100 Château d’Arche 2010 94/100 Château Caillou 201094/100 Château Lamothe 201094/100 Château de Myrat 201094/100 Château Coutet 201093/100 Château Filhot 201093/100 Clos Haut-Peyraguey 201092-93/100 Château La Tour Blanche 201092/100 Château Broustet 201092/100 Château de Malle 2010

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92/100 Château Guiraud 201091/100 Château Suau 201091/100 Château de Rayne Vigneau 201091/100 Château Rieussec 201090/100 Château Sigalas Rabaud 2010

Pessac-Léognan A.C. (white wines)

99/100 Domaine de Chevalier 201098/100 Château Carbonnieux 2010 96/100 Château Fieuzal 201095/100 Château Smith Ht Lafite 201093/100 Château Haut-Brion blanc 201093/100 Château Olivier 201092/100 Château Latour Martillac 201092/100 Château Pape Clément 201091/100 Château la Mission Haut Brion blanc 201091/100 Château Malartic La Gravière blanc 201091/100 Ch Bouscaut 2010 90/100 Ch Couhins Lurton 201088/100 La Clarté de Haut-Brion 2010

Pessac-Léognan A.C. (red wines)

98/100 Château Fieuzal 201097/100 Château Haut Brion 201095/100 Château La Mission Haut Brion 201094/100 Château Smith Haut Lafite 201094/100 Château Haut Bailly 2021093/100 Château Couhins 201092/100 Domaine de Chevalier 201092/100 Château Pape Clément 2010



92/100 Château Carbonnieux 201091/100 Le Clarence de Haut Brion 201090/100 Château Olivier 201090/100 Château Malartic Lagravière 201090/100 Château Bouscaut 201089/100 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 201089/100 Château Couhins Lurton 2010 88/100 Château Latour Martillac 2010

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1er Grand Cru Classé A)

96-97 /100 Cheval Blanc 2010

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1ers Grands Crus Classés B)

98/100 Château Figeac 201098/100 Château La Gaffelière 2010 96/100 Clos Fourtet 201095/100 Château Belair Monange 201095/100 Château Pavie Macquin 201095/100 Château Beauséjour 2010 94/100 Château Canon 201093/100 Château Magdelaine 201093/100 Château Pavie 201092/100 Petit Cheval 201091/100 Château Trottevieille 201090/100 Château Beauséjour Bécot 2010

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (Grands Crus Classés)

95/100 Château Grandes Murailles 201095/100 Château Larcis Ducasse 2010 95/100 Château Moulin du Cadet 201095/100 Château Soutard 201094/100 Château Grand Corbin 201094/100 Château Fonroque 201094/100 Château Grand Pontet 201093/100 Château Bellefont Belcier 2010 93/100 Château Monbousquet 201093/100 Château Fonplégade 201092/100 Château Grand Corbin Despagne 201092/100 Couvent des Jacobins 201092/100 Château Franc Mayne 201092/100 Château Laroque 2010 92/100 Château Haut Corbin 2010 92/100 Château La Tour du Pin 2010 91/100 Château Grand Corbin 201091/100 Château Bergat 201091/100 Château Le Prieuré 201091/100 Château La Dominique 201091/100 Château Pavie Decesse 201091/100 Château Ballestard La Tonnelle 201091/100 Château Villemaurine 2010 91/100 Château Larmande 201089/100 Château Chauvin 201089/100 Château Corbin Michotte 201089/100 Château Faurie de Souchard 2010 89/100 Château La Clotte 2010

89/100 Château La Tour Figeac 201088/100 Château La Couspaude 201088/100 Château Yon Figeac 201088/100 Clos Saint Martin 2010 88/100 Château Cadet Piola 201088/100 Château Cap de Mourlin 201088/100 Château La Serre 201087/100 Château Guadet 2010 87/100 Château Dassault 201085/100 Château Laroze 2010 84/100 Château Petit Faurie de Soutard 2010

Pomerol A .C.

93/100 Château La Grave 201093/100 Château Latour (Pomerol) 201092/100 Château Hosanna 201092/100 Château Lafleur Gazin 201092/100 Château Providence Pomerol 201091/100 Château Plince 201090/100 Château La Fleur Petrus 201090/100 Château Trotanoy 201090/100 Château Certan de May 201088/100 Château Bourgneuf 2010

THE MARCHESI DI BAROLO VINEYARD IN THE BAROLO WINEGROWING REGION IN PIEDMONT


COVER STORY

We take a closer look at the treasures of Piedmont and Tuscany.

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COVER STORY


In his 1933 book entitled Wines, the

American author Julian Street dedica-

ted 73 pages to France and only 10

pages to Italy. Premium Italian wines that are

today known around the world - for exam-

ple, Barbaresco - are not even mentioned.

Italian wines, according to Julian Street, are characterised “by

quantity rather than quality. Compared to French wines, they

are coarse.” At the time, despite the country’s 400 grape varie-

ties, Italian winemaking was not highly regarded. The

supremacy of French wines would long remain unshakeable.

However, over the years, by producing wines of distinctive style

and superb quality, the reputation of certain Italian winemakers,

such as Angelo Gaja in Piedmont, began to gain ground. During

the 1970s, appellations such as Barbaresco and Barolo began to

appear on the wine lists of fine restaurants around the world,

alongside Bordeaux cru classés and Burgundy grand crus.

The Piedmont wines of DOCG Barbaresco and Barolo are made

from Nebbiolo, a superior local variety in the style of the best

Pinot Noirs from Burgundy. In terms of recent vintages, 2007

was a hot year with an early harvest, but 2008 was cooler,

allowing late ripening and a perfectly balanced grape with excellent

ageing potential due to its level of tannins and its high acidity.

If 2008 is an excellent vintage for Barolo wines, 2010 can be

described as exceptional. Last year, the grapes ripened very

slowly, and short spells of high temperatures caused the

Nebbiolo grapes, which are naturally late-ripening, to protect

themselves against the heat by developing large amounts of

antioxidant tannins and a high level of acidity.

INTENSE AND COMPLEXBarolo, matured for a minimum of three years (including two

years in barrels), can be produced in the 11 village districts that

make up the appellation, located southwest of the town of Alba.

Its wines are typically garnet red with orange highlights. They

are powerful and complex, with a range of aromas initially of

red fruits (especially cherry) that are mouthfilling and perfectly

balanced, while austere. In older vintages, they lean towards

flavours of soil and truffle. Barolo wines that are aged for more

than five years are labelled Riserva.

Barbaresco wines, also made from Nebbiolo and matured for

two years (including one year in barrels), are produced in

Neive, Treiso, Barbaresco and Alba. The regulations specify that

at the time it is put on the market, the wine must be garnet red,

with an intense, distinctive bouquet and a dry, full and

balanced taste. Barbaresco Reserve must be put on the market

from 1 January on the fifth year after harvest. Taking into

account the features of the terroir, including its ideal soil,

everything is in conjunction to make DOCG Barolo and

Barbaresco wines truly poetic.

Yet not all fine Italian wines are made exclusively from

Nebbiolo. Italy has also long produced vins de garde, a tradition

dating back several centuries in Tuscany. This winemaking

region cultivates another superior local variety, Sangiovese.

Since 1300, Tuscan families such as the Antinoris and the

Frescobaldis have been producing wine. In 1716, Cosimo III of

the Medici family, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued a decree

creating the first appellations, defining the geographic boundaries

of the winegrowing regions and outlining the production rules

for the wines of Chianti, Pomino, Carmignano and Valdarno di Sopra.

The internationally famous village of Montalcino is the most

well-known appellation in Italian winemaking. This old Etruscan

village is perched on a 567-metre hill and surrounded by a pine

forest. Brunello di Montalcino wine, made exclusively from

Sangiovese grapes, is from here. Not far away, at an altitude of

605 metres, the Estrucan village of Montepulciano rises above

the Chiana Valley. This is another production site for premium

wines made from Sangiovese, locally named Prugnolo Gentile

(“kind plum”), and blended with other local varieties

(Canaiolo and Colorino). Nobile di Montepulciano is the

appellation’s most prestigious wine, in contrast to Rosso di

Montepulciano, which, like Rosso di Montalcino, is a mid-

range wine.

FLESHY AND FRUITY Rosso di Montalcino is a fruity yet fresh wine with good structure

and smooth tannins. Although it is pleasant, it lacks the

Delphine

Veissière


complexity and elegance of Brunello made from Sangiovese. It

often pairs well with poultry, game and aged cheese. Rosso di

Montepulciano is distinctive for its marked floral nose. It is

good quality and can be enjoyed young.

The 2006 vintage is often considered excellent, as compared to

2007 and 2008, which were of variable quality - not all the

wines of those vintages were able to claim the Nobile or

Brunello appellation (according to whether they are from

Montepulciano or Montalcino). The Tuscan wines of 2010

benefited from a cool summer that meant the harvest took

place in the middle of October, allowing the Sangiovese grapes

time to ripen fully and giving rise to fleshy, fruity and intense

wines with good ageing potential.

Sangiovese is the most widespread and the most cultivated

variety in Italy. In geographic areas with cool nights and hot

days, it can result in premium wines. It ripens late and is usually

harvested at the end of September or beginning of October.

Sangiovese wines are ruby red, concentrated and have a big

personality. They are fruity (especially plum and black cherry)

and have a floral nose of violets. There is a good balance of

COVER STORY

IN 2007, VIRGINIESAVERYS BECAME THE OWNER OF THE 114-HECTARE ESTATEAVIGNONESI

acidity and tannins and a high level of alcohol, alongside good

structure and length.

Unlike the Nebbiolo wines of Piedmont, which are austere and

extremely elegant, Sangiovese wines are big and distinctive.

Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks, and maturation

takes place in barrels from Allier in France or Slavonia in

Croatia. The naturally high tannin content of Sangiovese

requires a period in oak, which, depending on its origin, is

more or less neutral in terms of its impact on the aroma and

flavour of the wine. Oak from Slavonia is often used for high-

volume casks and has a more obvious influence than French

oak, which provides smooth, round flavours. Opting for one or

the other is purely a production decision rather than a financial

one, as their prices are similar.

POWERFUL AND TANNICWhen Pope Gregory XI moved the Holy See from Avignon to

Rome, the Avignonesi family (literally, the “family from

Avignon”) followed, settling in Siena and Montepulciano. The

Avignonesis were landowners and devoted part of their land to

cultivating vineyards. In 2007, Virginie Saverys, a Belgian

AT POGGIO DI SOTTO, SEVENPARCELS OF VINES ARE PRODUCEDSEPARATELY ON A SMALL SCALE

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SINCE 2006, MARCHESI DI BAROLO IS UNDER THE DIRECTION OFERNESTO AND ANNA ABBONA

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businesswoman from the shipbuilding sector who fell in love

with Tuscany, became the owner of the 114-hectare estate. Since

2008 she has been making dramatic changes, converting to

biodynamic cultivation, as well as implementing different

production methods, for example, using oak to mature the

estate’s Nobile wines. The 2010 vintage promises to be a powerful,

tannic yet fresh Nobile. The 2010 I Poggetti Alberello Sangiovese

(96/100) opens with fruit, and is tannic, concentrated, fresh and

smoothly elegant. The nearby Boscarelli estate offers a 2006

Nobile di Montepulciano that is powerful and elegant, the product

of a hot year that was difficult for grapevines, but here gives rise

to a classically elegant wine combining a nose of tobacco, red

fruit and menthol and a peppery, tannic and fresh palate, that

should ideally be enjoyed after 4-7 years of ageing.

Some 20 kilometres from Montepulciano, Brunello di

Montalcino fully realised its pedigree with the 2005 and 2006

vintages from the Poggio di Sotto estate (leaving aside a potentially

good vintage for 2008, which is still maturing). The 2010 vintage

(98/100) approaches perfection. It benefits from a year in

which the summer was cool, pushing the beginning of the


COVER STORY

ELEGANT AND NOBLEThe premium Barolo and Barbaresco wines made by Angelo

Gaja, Pio Cesare and Marchesi di Barolo (a famous name in the

history of Piedmont winemaking) are well known. However,

the Bruno Giacosa winery, although often mentioned, remains

an outsider, representative of modern winemaking that lacks a

real signature, but is nonetheless an excellent expression of its

terroir. As Angelo Gaja likes to say, “The perfect wine doesn’t

exist. Wines have to be worked on because nature is imperfect.”

Every wine is subject to two major factors that determine its

quality and ageing potential: the level of tannins and the level

of acidity. Barolo and Barbaresco are not cheap wines. Some 80

per cent of the appellations’ wines are made by small winemakers.

Only 20 per cent of the harvest goes to cooperative wineries.

harvest back to 15 October. It has a nose of fresh fruit, with

hints of violet, and has the flavour of crisp, fresh fruit pulp. The

quality of its tannins and its depth also give it length. At Poggio

di Sotto, seven parcels of vines are produced separately on a

small scale (microvinification). The harvesters pass through the

vines several times during the harvest to select the grapes at

their ideal ripeness. The wines are made exclusively from

Sangiovese, and their olfactory and taste qualities develop

during maturation, which determine if it is designated Rosso di

Montalcino for a minor year (for example, 2007) or Brunello

for a good year. Not far from here, the Il Maronetto estate,

managed by Alessandro Mori, has a 2006 Brunello di

Montalcino (95/100) that is full-bodied, has a big personality,

and is matured exclusively in oak barrels from Slovenia.

ANGELO GAJA: “THE PERFECT WINE DOESN’T EXIST. WINES HAVE TO BEWORKED ON BECAUSE NATURE IS IMPERFECT”

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The Gaja winery has an exceptional 2008 Sori San Lorenzo

Barbaresco (97/100) centred on a nose of fresh red fruits

(strawberry and cherry) and a well-balanced palate characterised

by rounded tannins and acidity, in addition to good concentration,

structure and length. The Pio Cesare winery has a 2007 Barolo

Ornata (96/100) of distinctive excellence. It is smooth and has

great depth thanks to the majority of its maturation being carried

out in old French oak barrels. The Marchesi di Barolo winery

has a 2008 Barolo Sarmassa that also promises to be elegant.

In both Tuscany and Piedmont, the wines of 2010 look set to be

balanced and deep, concentrated on fresh red fruit pulp, with

the menthol and balsamic notes typical of fine Italian wines.

Make sure you don’t miss out when they are available for sale.

By Delphine Veissière

Premium Italian wines prove their excellence


PIO BOFFA IS THE FOURTH GENERATION WINEMAKER OF

PIO CESARE

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OUR PICKSHere are our scores for the Tuscan andPiedmont wines we tasted in May, as wellas our reviews of the two 2010 wines that weliked best:

98/100 Poggio di SottoBrunello diMontalcino 2010*



COVER STORY

94/100 Boscarelli Nobile di Montepulciano 200694/100 Boscarelli Nocio 200792/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna

delle grazie 200693/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 200494/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna

delle grazie 200594/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 199595/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 200688/100 Poggio di Sotto rosso di Montalcino 200690/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2009*91/100 Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 200795/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 200595/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 200696/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2008*97/100 Poggio di Sotto riserva 200598/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2010*

PIEDMONT

82/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 200883/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva 200785/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Il Falletto riserva 200789/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Faletto 200789/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2010*92/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto Le Roche 2010*89/100 Gaja Sperss 199990/100 Gaja Coste Russi 200890/100 Gaja Sperss 200791/100 Gaja Sori Tildin 200893/100 Gaja Barbaresco 200893/100 Gaja Conteisa 199694/100 Gaja Conteisa 200797/100 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo 200883/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera 200885/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 2009*85/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 2010*86/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 200888/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2009*89/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2010*89/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 200790/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 2010*90/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 2009*90/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 200792/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 200894/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 200892/100 Pio Cesare Barbaresco 200793/100 Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 200794/100 Pio Cesare Barolo 200796/100 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornata 2007* En primeur

98/100 - Poggio di Sotto Brunello diMontalcino 2010*The typical opening of fresh fruit that characterises Poggio di Sottowines is even more apparent in the winery’s future 2010 Brunello.The impact of oak is minimal, leaving fruit and freshness todominate this vintage. The wine is well balanced, elegant,persistent and tannic. The late harvest resulted in minimaldevelopment of the premature aromas of soil and dried plum thatcan naturally occur in Sangiovese grapes, in favour of aromas ofcherry and violets that tend to become masked as the wine matures.Mouthfilling, silky and fresh, this wine is concentrated around redfruit pulp, with hints of sweet spices, liquorice and soft caramel.

96/100 - Avignonesi Sangiovese AlberelloPoggetti 2010*The austere and discreet initial aromas of the 2010 vintage open upto an enticing fruity fragrance with a touch of acidity and blackpepper. The intensity and the strength contrast each other on thepalate, giving way to structure and concentrated fruit with a strongtannic element. The 2010 vintage is set to become a classic; it is likelyto be one of the winery’s best. Its complexity can already be sensed,as well as its balance - the almost tactile intensity and strength ofSangiovese is perfectly controlled by its maturation in oak barrels.

TUSCANY

82/100 Avignonesi Merlot Tradizionale 2010*84/100 Avignonesi Cortona Il Mazzocco 200985/100 Avignonesi Desiderio 200785/100 Avignonesi Merlot Alberello 2010*86/100 Avignonesi Cortona Il Mazzocco 200986/100 Avignonesi 50-50 200587/100 Avignonesi Nobile di Montepulciano 200889/100 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano 200989/100 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano 2010*89/100 Avignonesi Riserva grande annate 200689/100 Avignonesi Cabernet Sauvignon Alberello 2010*91/100 Avignonesi Sangiovese Alberello Capezzine 2010*92/100 Avignonesi Sangiovese Tradizionale 2010*96/100 Avignonesi Sangiovese Alberello Poggetti 2010*87/100 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2010*90/100 Biondi Santi Riserva 2010*90/100 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2008*91/100 Biondi Santi Riserva 2008*85/100 Boscarelli IGT 200687/100 Boscarelli De Ferrari 200988/100 Boscarelli “Prugnolo” 200989/100 Boscarelli Nocio 200690/100 Boscarelli Nobile di Montepulciano 200892/100 Boscarelli Riserva 2006

“PRIMEUR”? WHAT? It is nearly impossible to translate the conceptof the primeur tasting for American winemakers.

While the illuminati of the wine world - journalists and négociants -descend upon Bordeaux each spring to assess the vintage just past,winemakers in the United States are content to let their winesdevelop in peace. This attitude includes American producerswhose wines are considered peers of the elites of Bordeaux. Ofcourse, they all know what happens in Bordeaux every year, theysimply don’t understand why anyone would try to judge a wine(especially very expensive wines) before it has even been blended.Indeed, the whole idea just seems crazy.

BUT THE WINES AREN’T READY Sampling the best American wines made in 2010 proved to be achallenge. Most requests were met with polite disbelief. More thanone winemaker said that many of the lots they expected to use intheir final blends were still undergoing malolactic fermentation.One winery located in New York State’s cool climate Finger Lakesregion reported that some tanks of their exemplary Riesling werestill undergoing primary fermentation. In other words, wines fromthe 2010 vintage are nowhere near bottling.

THE GRAND DELUSION Do things move more slowly in the American rather thanBordeaux cellars? Obviously not. Indeed, the same phenomenonof unfinished, unblended wines exists in the great cellars of theMédoc and the Libournais as well. Yet, due to tradition (or moreaccurately, the demands of speculators), chai masters are obligedto show something of the previous vintage. How else could theprophets of the wine world make pronouncements about whereinvestors should be directing their euros/dollars/rubles/yuans?Before anyone knocks on cellar doors, barrels are tasted inadvance. Those that are the most advanced and seductive examplesof the previous vintage are isolated, and only then presented tothe arbitrators of taste. It doesn’t matter that the wine Château Xpresents during primeur might not ever go into a future bottle

THE BEST OF WHAT MIGHT BE: A Taste of the Top American

Wines from 2010

COVER STORY


BY JAMAL RAYYIS

Jamal Rayyis

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FROM ALL THE WINES SAMPLED,THESE WERE THE BEST OF THE BEST

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these same winemakers emphasized that such tastings are purelyfor information, not critical comment.

Through persistence on my part, and the cooperation of a fewwinemakers, I managed to make an assessment based on threefactors: 1) past experience with the wines, having tasted previousvintages of each several times; 2) an actual tasting of the 2010 barrelsamples of the wines 3) an attempt at regional and varietal diversity.

In alphabetical order, my choices for the 2010 vintage are:• Brick House Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge

Appellation Willamette Valley, Oregon• Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley, California• Hermann J. Wiemer Magdalena Vineyard Dry Riesling

Finger Lakes, New York State• Kongsgaard The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, California• Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains,

California

Are these absolutely the best five American wines produced in2010? Honestly, it is too early to tell. But I am fully confident thatany one of the five could be in the top category.

A FEW NOTES ON THE 2010 VINTAGE

THE YEAR IN GENERALThe United States is a huge country, nearly as large as Europeitself, and, though not widely known, wine is made in all fiftystates. There is an abundance of terrains, microclimates and terroirs.Some of California’s great wine regions - Napa, Sonoma, the SantaCruz Mountains - faced challenges in 2010. Temperatures in thespring were cooler than normal, with bud break arriving onlytoward late April - a month later than usual - in some cooler,high-elevation vineyards. Persistent rain and lower temperaturescontinued until July. To facilitate grape ripening, many viticulturalistsstripped leaves from vines. But, when temperatures soared to upto 40 degrees Celsius or higher, grapes were left unprotected fromthe sun, cooking many on the vine. The heat lasted through muchof September, interrupted by rain in the first half of October, justwhen harvests were expected. Those who picked before the rainsreported a good, if not exceptional crop. Those who were caughtin the rains suffered, and a few who waited until the rains stoppedwere well-rewarded, provided they had experience with “difficult”harvests (which are admittedly unusual in California).

Despite the heat spikes in September, many people reported that2010 was among the coolest vintages in the past few decades, anda hard selection of grapes was needed in the winery. As expectedfor a cooler vintage, alcohol levels were lower than usual, andacidity levels were higher. So, too, were tannin, and in many cases,colour-based phenolics. The best red wines from California are


COVER STORY

CALIFORNIA'S NAPA VALLEY IS CONSIDERED ONE OF THE TOP WINE

REGIONS IN THE UNITED STATES

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labelled ”Château X”. Rather, the point is to create excitement andcash flow into the château’s accounts. It’s a grand delusion, perhapsnot on the same order of the shenanigans of financiers in the lastfew years, but it’s a confidence game nonetheless. (There’s goodreason, therefore, why the greatest customers for these primeurwines are these same financiers.)

American wine makers need cash flow just like the Bordelais, butthere is no expectation to prove their wines’ worth before they areeven assembled. As a result, there are no primeurs, there are nogrand proclamations about 2010 being the vintage of the century,and there isn’t even, it might be accurately said, a 2010 wine thatmost great producers are yet willing to call their own.

All this leaves the humble wine critic in a troubling position: howto assess not only the 2010 vintage in the United States (a task asdifficult as commenting on French wines - from Alsace toProvence to Bordeaux - in general), but also, how to pick the year’sbest wines?

RESOLUTIONMy connections at top wineries in California, Oregon,Washington, and New York State (which comprise 98% ofAmerican wine production) could certainly get me near some barrelsof 2010 wines (though not all, since some wineries explicitly forbidcritics to taste from barrel). And winemakers are generous enoughto dip their pipettes into barrels to offer a taste. But every one of

The Best of What Might Be: A Taste of the Top American Wines from 2010


darker than usual. Cool summer conditions extended north intothe wine regions of Oregon and Washington. Though it gotwarmer in September, into October, neither the Willamette orColumbia Valleys suffered the same heat stroke as California. ForPacific Northwest winemakers, growing season was one of thelongest on record, up to 115 days or more compared to the usual100 days. Vineyard yields were lower than usual, as were averagealcohol levels. But aromatics and colour were higher. In contrast,producers in New York’s Finger Lakes region, some 4000 kilometersacross the country, reported conditions that were notably different,with warm, clement conditions from spring through the summer.The biggest problem was intense rain that came at the end ofSeptember, which damaged some Riesling and brought on somerot. Grapes harvested before the rains showed higher acid levels.Grapes picked after vineyards dried a couple of weeks after therains showed greater concentration and complexity of flavours,but were somewhat lower in acidity.

THE BEST? Selecting the “best” of anything as subjective as wine is a challenge

in any circumstances, but doing so from among admittedly

unfinished products verges on the hubristic. Still, as a point of

comparison against 2010 Bordeaux primeur tastings, the exercise is

an interesting one. As mentioned above, most top American wine-

makers were reluctant to show their 2010 wines at all. Whether the

aversion to do so came from modesty or a lack of confidence that

wines from the admittedly challenging 2010 vintage would show

very well is an open question. Certainly every winemaker I spoke

with was quite clear in stating that, oenologically speaking, the

wines were simply not ready. Many were still in some phase

of fermentation. More than a couple of winemakers added that,

sure, they could send samples of especially precocious 2010 wines

selected from excellent barrels. But that would have been, in their

words, “cheating,” since eventually those wines would be blended

with others to form a final assemblage. And, ”what would be the

point of that?” they added.

Fortunately, some brave souls were either confident enough in

their 2010 wines to show samples, or, at least were curious about

the parallels with 2010 Bordeaux. From all the wines sampled,

these were the best of the best:

BRICK HOUSE CUVÉE DU TONNELIERPINOT NOIR RIBBON RIDGE APPELLATIONWILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON

Located in the tiny Ribbon Ridge AVA (American Viticultural Area -the US equivalent to France’s Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée,AOC), Brick House has been making stunning Pinot Noir sincethe mid-1990’s. The property is modest in size, 16 hectares (40 acres)

total, and is farmed biodynamically. Seeking a more solaced lifeafter covering war in Lebanon and inspired by vineyards in Francewinemaker/owner, Doug Tunnell planted his first vines in 1990.He went organic from the start. The first plantations were ofungrafted Pinot Noir, Pommard clone. Later, Tunnell plantedGamay, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Dijon clones of Pinot Noir.Formerly a foreign correspondent for the American television networkCBS, Oregon-native Tunnell is a largely self-taught vigneron,though he got good advice from neighbouring winemakersalong the way.

The wines are made naturally - using indigenous yeasts - andminimal intervention when possible, which given the health ofhis vines, means that processes such as chapitalisation and acidi-fication are rare. Brick House releases four cuvées of Pinot Noir:Boulder Rock, Les Dijonnais, Evelyn’s, and Cuvée du Tonnelier.

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MORE EXCEPTIONAL WINES TASTED FOR THIS ARTICLE


finesse from first sniff, with the perfume of just-cut herbs, especiallythyme and marjoram. These are followed by brambly aromas ofwild berries, including raspberries and blackberries, well as earthy,forest floor elements and hints of dried apricot. Tasting the wine,one is struck by the very fresh, tart, red berry flavors, with hints offlowers, anise, and stone. Indeed, the minerality that shows fromthe vineyard’s sedimentary soils underlined by clay and limestoneis striking. Of course, the sample tasted is only one element ofwhat will become the Cuvée du Tonnelier 2010. The 2009 Cuvéedu Tonnelier, just released, shows a family resemblance. Still quiteyoung, the wine will benefit from a few years age. It is seductivenonetheless, with crushed red cherry, fennel seed, marzipan,peppery herb and spice elements throughout. All are containedby mouthwatering acidity and minerality.

DIAMOND CREEK VOLCANIC HILL CABERNETSAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

Though not one of Napa’s most historic wineries, Diamond CreekVineyards certainly qualifies as one of its pioneers. Al Brounstein,who made his fortune in pharmaceuticals, founded the winery in1968 on lands he purchased in a previously unplanted, area highabove Napa Valley’s floor. At the time, Napa was largely unknown,and though there were precedents, the notion of mountainsidevineyards was not especially appreciated. Almost completelyunappreciated was the idea of specific terroirs within a property,climatic and geological. Brounstein’s genius was identifying andisolating from the start, separate vineyards within his propertythat had specific soil types: gravel for Gravelly Meadow, iron forRed Rock Terrace, and volcanic ash for Volcanic Hill. Though it isno surprise today that wines from each of these vineyards havedistinct qualities, the notion was not well appreciated inCalifornia at the time, nor, indeed, for at least a couple of moredecades. The decision to bottle each vineyard’s wine separatelywas a statement that terroir really meant something from Napa -flying in the face not only terroir-deniers at the all importantschool of enology at the University of California, Davis, but alsoto nay-saying critics, especially in France, who asserted that terroirsimply couldn’t exist in California.

Of course, the notion of terroir doesn’t only include the specificsof vineyard site, but also the type of grape planted there. Just asBurgundy’s terroir is best expressed by Pinot Noir and Pomerol’sby Merlot, Brounstein thought early on that Cabernet Sauvignonwas especially suited to the Napa Valley. Diamond Creek, as aresult, was the first winery in Napa to dedicate itself to exclusivelyCabernet Sauvignon wine. (One caveat: small quantities of PetitVerdot, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc are planted at Diamond Creekas well, though the total percent used in no way interferes legallywith wines labeled “Cabernet Sauvignon”).Of Diamond Creek’s 28 hectares (70 acres) , nine are planted invines. Volcanic Hill is the largest (3.2 ha/8 acres) of the property’s

Of these, Tonnelier is considered the most accessible in its youth,though, ironically, it is also considered the longest ageing. The 2010 vintage of Cuvée du Tonnelier was marked for severalreasons. First of all, at 12.7 degrees, it records the lowest alcoholyet of any vintage of Tonnelier made. The average alcohol level is13.5%. Next, it marked Brick House’s longest vintage, 152 daysfrom bud break on April 1, to harvest starting October 16. Despitelower sugar levels, the grapes showed an unusually high level of

phenolic complexity and anthocyanin content. Concerned abouthigh malic acid in the grapes at harvest, Tunnel fermented hiswine with a larger percentage of whole clusters (included stems)than usual. Because of the long hang time, stems and seeds wererather ripe and added fresh aromas of fines herbes rather than just“green” flavours.

Befitting of a young wine, the 2010 Cuvée du Tonnelier shows alovely ruby color with hints of purple. One perceives the wine’s

COVER STORY

DIAMOND CREEK VOLCANIC HILLCABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY

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Especially important was the Riesling planted on steep vineyardsthat were reminiscent of Wiemer’s beloved Mosel. His gambleproved successful, which was fortunate since his boss at BullyHill promptly fired Wiemer for apostasy against the gospel ofhybrid grapes.

The Magdalena Vineyard is a 10 hectare (24 acre) plot which wasplanted in 1999 with mixed soil types, ranging from honoeyeloam with clay to decomposed granite, all on a bedrock of shale.The vineyards’s slope rises steeply from a grade of five degrees toone of seven. It is the warmest microclimate in the Finger Lakesand offers superb conditions for ripening even in cool vintages.

Wiemer’s 2010 Magdalena represents two aspects of the vintage.On the one hand there were grapes picked in late September,before the massive downpour of rain (12 cm in one day). On theother hand were grapes picked after the rains, in the later part of

four vineyards. South facing, it is also the estate’s warmest. Thatsaid, Diamond Creek, which runs through the property, creates anatural canyon that sucks in cool air from the Pacific, moderatingfor all vineyards, heat from Napa Valley, below. Compared to theother vineyards, Volcanic Hill wines are bigger in body and alsolonger living. It should be said, however, that every of DiamondCreek’s wines are designed for long ageing. Indeed, while all arethrilling to taste when young, that is, after they have been releasedthree years after vintage, they are notably shy wines that demandrevisiting after some years.

The barrel sample of 2010 Volcanic Hill is notably black. Perhapsits somber though seductive hue is a mask designed to obscurehow good the difficult 2010 vintage can be with the proper attention.Swirling the wine, the mask falls, though there is a consistency inthe hue of flavours: black fruit, black pepper, smoke. Lighteningthings up are sweet spices and floral notes. A first taste bringsthings back to black. There are explosive flavors of blackberries,cassis, then graphite from the volcanic soils. Lacy notes of violet,smoke, and hints of dill follow, with a shot of espresso on the end.As one might expect at this stage, the wine’s tannins are pronounced,but in fact melt in the mouth, cleaned up by fresh acidity.

HERMANN J. WIEMER MAGDALENA VINEYARDDRY RIESLING FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK STATE

Admittedly, the choice of an American Riesling as one of thecountry’s best wines is not obvious. Nor, too, is the choice of awine from New York State. It surprises many, even New Yorkers, tolearn that New York is one of the United State’s great viticulturestates. For decades, it was second in wine production toCalifornia. Today, it is third, after Washington State (though insome years it regains second place). The majority of New YorkState wine is made in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York.The microclimates around these lakes moderate what wouldotherwise be bitterly cold winters. Still a cool region, the FingerLakes has become recognized in the last decade or so, as being oneof the best places in the US to grow cool-climate grapes such asRiesling and Gewurztraminer. Fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir isalso grown here, as are some more esoteric varieties such asGrüner Veltliner and Rkatsitelli.

Hermann J. Wiemer, from several generations of winemakers inBernkasteller, Germany, arrived in the area in the 1960s.Originally, he worked for the decidedly eccentric though passionateWalter S. Taylor at Bully Hill winery, which championed so-calledFrench-American hybrid grape varieties. While these grapes andsome of the wines made from them have their charms, they tendto lack the elegance that a German classicist might seek. Throughhis own observations, as well as the inspiration from the pioneer-ing Dr. Konstanin Frank (a fine producer as well), Wiemer startedmoonlighting, planting vitis vinifera grapes in the mid-1970s.

AN OUTSTANDING WINE FROM HERMANN J. WIEMER

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COVER STORY

Though only recently available, the Magdalena 2009 is a treat from thestart. Aromas of sweet spice and ripening mango waft from glass uponfirst swirl along with fine, smoky mineral notes. Tasting the wineoffers an initial lushness of sweet fruit, followed by loads of acidity. Alift of green citrus fruit follows, with succulent quetsch plums, greenalmonds and the subtle perfume of violets. A ribbon of minerals keepseverything together. Another great Riesling.

KONGSGAARD THE JUDGE CHARDONNAYNAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

California has its share of great Chardonnay. Admittedly, thestereotype of them, full-bodied, with ripe pineapple and smokyoak flavors, and relaxed acid, is not to everyone’s taste, especiallyto those who regard white Burgundy as the only model worthconsidering. The cliché of California Chardonnay ought to beretired. Though still widely produced, the number of vigneronsfollowing this paradigm falls with each vintage, driven in part bychanging tastes, not the least of which are from winemakersthemselves. There is a whole other world of CaliforniaChardonnay to consider, one that privileges balance over powerfultropical fruit flavors. Higher, flavour-balancing acidity is a componentthat has become essential. Usage of oak has been scaled back. Onemight still find so-called “oak-bombs” but it’s more likely thatthose flavours come from the use of oak chips rather thanindulgence in fine French (or even, Russian, Slovenian, American)oak barrels. In any case, it is the experience of winemakers that canmake the difference. Whether this experience comes directly fromyears on the job, or the collective wisdom of elders that helped ayoung generation of wine makers avoid the trap of oaky Chard isirrelevant. The importance is balance.

John Kongsgaard might have more experience than any. A fifth-generation native of Napa Valley, he has experienced the full rangeof the region’s growth, both directly, or from family history.Kongsgaard didn’t directly come from a winemaking family,though some of his relatives made wine. But his friends andneighbours certainly did, often from grapes raised in Kongsgaard’sown vineyards. As for his own experience, Kongsgaard gainedfame for his time at Newton Vineyards, one of the first in Napa toapply biodynamic techniques to viticulture and winemaking.

Kongsgaard’s The Judge is made from the Stone Crest Vineyard,planted in the 1970s on a plot of land that John’s grandfatherwanted to use as a stone quarry. The wine’s name honours John’sfather, who was a Napa country judge. Until 1996, the grapes weresold to some of Napa’s finest wineries. As one would expect froma quarry, the soil is incredibly stony and infertile. Vines have tostruggle here to survive and yields are miniscule, under 15 hl/ha(<1 US ton/acre). Understandably, less than 400 cases are made ofthis wine. The Judge, like other Kongsgaard wines, is made naturally,without intervention. Except for picking and crushing nothing isdone to the wine. It ferments naturally with ambient yeasts in newFrench oak barrels where it undergoes its malolactic fermentation

October. Grapes from the latter harvest required vigorous sortingin the winery.

Typical for fresh Riesling, Magdalena 2010 is pale with greenhighlights. The wine is still very much alive on first smell.Greengage plum, citrus and pineapple notes are apparent fromthe start, with flirtatious wafts of anise underpinned by fresh lees.There is a harmony between the nose and mouth, though citrusflavors become more defined with kumquat taking the lead, butalso some peach blossom, honey suckle and spice. Despiteinspiration from the Mosel, this wine is very much in an Alsatianstyle, with a hint of residual sugar. There is an impressive delicacyto the wine, with a long, long finish.

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and remains for about two years. Racked for bottling, the wineremains unfined and unfiltered.

The 2010 Kongsgaard wine is very much an unfinished wine, yetit points toward greatness. Already richly coloured, the wine has ayellow-green hue. Its nose is indulgent from the start, withoutshowing any tendency toward overripeness. There is a beautifulcreaminess to it, with sweet spice, honey, and light peat notes. Inthe mouth, the lees are apparent and the wine is discrete, yetreveals a foundation of Seville and Valencia orange flavours,lemon, smoky oak and a thick foundation of minerals. One imaginesan exceptional future for this wine.

Already outstanding but destined for the ages is Kongsgaard’s2008 The Judge. A bit lighter in colour than the 2010, the aromasare, as one might expect, far more developed, with notes of orangeconfit, fresh apricot, toasted nuts, and smoky minerals. Theflavours are intense and mouth-filling, with lightly caramelisedorange, grilled pair, orange zest, yellow plum and toasted hazelnutsin the foreground, and superb levels of both minerals and acidity.After two years in barrel, oak is present, of course, but it appearsnot as wood, but rather, as some exotic nut. Remarkable as thiswine is upon first tasting, it got better after five days of tasting.The wine not only retained its freshness but positively came alive,with fresh squeezes of citrus and sprinkles of mineral.

RIDGE VINEYARDS MONTE BELLO SANTACRUZ MOUNTAINS, CALIFORNIA

In the pantheon of great wines, there is no real hierarchy. One hashis or her preferences, dependent on time and place, of course, butin the end, one simply has to acknowledge that great is great,period. Of course, some wines present a special resonance thatone cannot help but recognise as astonishing. Ridge Monte Bellois simply one of those wines.

Founded in the early-1960’s, Ridge Vineyards has been acknowledgedas as one of California’s greatest wine producers since the 1970’s.It was early in its recognition of great vineyard sites, both in theSanta Cruz Mountains where it is based, some 100 kilometerssouth of San Francisco, in Sonoma County, almost an equaldistance to the north. Moreover, while Ridge makes great single-variety wines, it adheres to a European sensibility that blends cancreate the most interesting wines. Bridging the gap between aEuropean tradition of labeling according to terroir and theAmerican preference for varietal labeling, Ridge does both, statingthe name of its vineyards in bold letters, and clearly indicating itswine’s composition in precise percentages on the front label.

Ridge’s home vineyard is Monte Bello, a 50 hectare (125 acre) plotin the cool-climate northern foothills of the Santa CruzMountains. The vineyard was first planted in 1885. It was firstplanted with Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1940’s, with subsequentplantings of other Bordeaux grape varieties and Chardonnay over

the following decades after the property was purchased in toto bythe founding partners of Ridge Vineyards.

Located 24 kilometers (15 miles) from the Pacific Ocean, MonteBello ranges in elevation from 400 to 800 meters (1300 to 2600feet). Its soils are green soil with clay over a bed of limestone. Ittruly offers one of California’s most unique terroirs.

That said, Ridge faced challenges other Californians did in 2010.Ridge’s chief winemaker Paul Draper reports that 2010 was thecoldest he ever experienced at Monte Bello. There were fears thatthe grapes might not ripen enough to be classified as Monte Bello.Yet, experience with cool-climate viticulture gave Ridge viticulturalistssome advantages over others most accustomed to dealing withheat. The first two weeks of October yielded a beautiful Indiansummer, warm and dry. When harvest was made, Draper and histeam found what he described as some of the healthiest, richestgrapes he had ever seen in terms of phenolics, colour, and tannins.Sugar levels were just the slightest bit lower than normal, thoughtotal alcohol was 13.5 degrees, low for most California Cabernetthese days, but normal for Ridge.

AND, HOW DOES IT TASTE?

Remarkably complete. It’s true that Ridge offered its final assemblage forthis tasting, but even so, everything was in balance. Its colourresembled brilliant black cherries, an indication of what was tocome in the nose, with simply explosive black cherry, marzipan,and black peppercorns. The palate was a mouth-wateringcombination of fresh-crushed red and black berries, cherries andfine black pepper. A ribbon of minerality extended through thewine, woven with spiced black tea and balanced by terrific acidity.The structure was perfect, with firm tannins.

Draper has compared 2010 with the less cool but similar 2005vintage. Tasting the 2005 Monte Bello, one hopes he is correct. Itsappearance is dark, with brick-like hues that come from age. Onthe nose one perceives dry cherries, dark chocolate, mint, pepper,leather and some tree sap. The mouth tastes fresher than the nose,full of violet, black cherry and blueberry flavours, fine pepper,lavender, and lashes of minerals. The wine is superbly balanced.

FINAL WORDSIt has often been remarked that from difficult vintages come themost remarkable wines. This adage has certainly been proven bythe wines tasted. There will of course be other great wines fromthe United States in 2010. Solicited wineries in Washington Stateand the Walla Walla region of Oregon declined to offer their 2010wines for evaluation, though a few kindly offered examples offinished wines from 2008. They were stunning. Of particularinterest is the Quilceda Creek’s luscious Cabernet Sauvignon, andCayuse Vineyards stunning Syrahs, including Bionic Frog 2008,and Cailloux Vineyard 2008. It will be more than a pleasure to seehow things turn out for them in 2010.



BordeauxTHE KEYS TO SUCCESS

HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS


Ask any wine consumer the name of a wine region

and chances are they will say Bordeaux. This

might have something to do with the region's

size, the early recognition of its natural factors giving it a long

history of winemaking, its port (making export easy) and its

unique châteaux concept where wines produced within a single

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An in-depth look at France's largest wine region and what makes it so special

In fact Bordeaux is the birthplace of oenology, the science of wine-making. It was Ribéreau-Gayon’s grandson Jean who created theworld's first Institute of Oenology at Bordeaux University in 1949and who discovered, with Emile Peynaud, malolactic fermentation.They developed the techniques of modern winemaking. This workcontinues at the Faculty of Oenology of Bordeaux, today basedat the ultra-modern Institute of the Science of the Vine andWine (ISVV).

CLASSIFICATION OF THEVINEYARDSNapoleon III wanted the great wines of Bordeaux to be part of theshowcase of the best France had to offer and in 1855 he organisedthe Exposition Universelle de Paris. He asked brokers based inBordeaux to draw up a list of the top estates. They sensibly usedprice as their basis and selected sixty or so of the most expensivered wines from the Médoc (and Château Haut Brion from theGraves) and categorized them into a five-tier classification ofgrowths. They also included twenty or so of the sweet white winesof Sauternes which were divided into a two-tier classification. Thelesser-known regions at the time, such as Fronsac, St Emilion andPomerol (and the rest of the Graves) were not included.

It was not the first classification of the wines of the Médoc(Thomas Jefferson, the American Ambassador to France, hadattempted to classify them 68 years previously, in 1787) but it isthe 1855 classification that has stuck and still dominates today.

Other classifications followed from other wine regions ofBordeaux, though many regions exist happily without a system,such as Pomerol; the static one-tier classification of the GravesClassification in 1959, and the two-tier classification (the PremierGrand Cru Classé and Grand Cru Classé) of the St EmilionClassification in 1955, which is, somewhat controversially,reviewed every ten years.

Bordeaux is the largest wine region in France covering 117,500hectares with 60 appellations producing a range of styles with apredominance of red wines. Although it has 10,000 differentchâteaux, it is the 250 or so top wines, the Grand Crus, that arerenowned throughout the world and fetch high prices.

If pressed to define an overall style, we might say that Bordeauxwines are known for their elegance and finesse. What gives themtheir notoriety and makes Bordeaux such a major player today?

LOCATIONBordeaux lies on the 45th parallel, mid-way between the NorthPole and the equator in the Northern hemisphere. As it lies to thenorth of many other wine-producing regions, ripeness can beachieved earlier here than in vineyards to its south. Grapes can beharvested earlier with lower sugar levels, producing wines withlower alcohol levels.

The climate in Bordeaux is temperate due to the proximity of theAtlantic Ocean which brings the warm Gulf Stream direct fromthe Caribbean to its golden sandy shores and inland via its rivers.The majestic Gironde River slices the vast region in two creatingwhat are called the Right (St Emilion, Fronsac, Pomerol) and LeftBanks (Médoc, Graves & Sauternes) splitting above Bordeaux intothe Dordogne and the Garonne via the large port of Bordeaux.

A broad band of pine trees were planted at the beginning of the19th century under the instructions of Napoleon III; they act as aprotective screen against winds and storms and help to regulatetemperatures.

Winters are mild and wet, normally providing water for use by thevines during the long, dry summers that stretch into autumnal“Indian Summers”. The oceanic climate remains fickle however,and autumn rain can badly affect the quality of the harvest. Itis this temperate climate that enables a degree of acidity to bemaintained within the grapes, even at perfect ripeness, givingBordeaux wines their signature freshness and finesse.

HISTORYIt was not until the Middle Ages that Bordeaux became thecommercial reference for wines that we know today, with the marriageof Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152 to Henri Plantagenet, the futureking of England. Thousands of tonneaux of fine, light wines(known as claret, clairet being ‘light’ in French) were exported toEngland for over 300 years.

It was within the second golden era for Bordeaux, at the end of the18th century, with the colonisation of the islands of America, thatthe concept of châteaux was developed and the wine from asingle domaine was bottled and marketed. It started a fashion forthe fine wines of Bordeaux. It was not until the mid-17th centurythat the marshes of the Médoc were drained by the Dutch and theestates of the Médoc were planted.

Throughout the history of the vine and winemaking, Bordeauxhas played a significant role. It has helped to find solutions forvarious crisis that struck the vineyards in Europe, such as mildew.It was Ulysse Ribéreau-Gayon at the University of Bordeaux - formerassistant to Louis Pasteur - who found the solution in the bouillieBordelaise, a mixture of copper sulphate and lime.



THE ALLUVIAL GRAVEL MAKES UP THE FAMOUS GRAVEL CROUPS

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BORDEAUX IS THE LARGEST WINE REGION IN FRANCE COVERING 117,500 HECTARES WITH 60 APPELLATIONS PRODUCING A RANGE OF STYLES WITH A PREDOMINANCE OF RED WINES


million years ago. It is this stone that underlies the plateau of StEmilion. This beautiful honey-coloured stone, the Pierre deBordeaux, was heavily quarried to make many of the facades in thecity and which today leaves kilometers of tunnels under themedieval town. The vines' shallow roots grow in a sandy loam soilwhich sits on the top of this stone; they are unable to penetratethis compacted stone but do not suffer as they receive a steadysupply of water sucked upwards from the water table through theporous stone via capillary action.

The second major type of soil is the alluvial gravel that was laiddown more recently in the Quartenaire period (less than 2 millionyears ago), made up of deep, coarse-textured gravels. They makeup the famous gravel croups found on elevations in the HautMédoc, Graves, Sauternes, Pomerol and Western St Emilion. Theyare well-drained andaerated, and enable deep penetration of thevines' roots.

GRAPE VARIETIESBordeaux’s grape varieties are well-known and have been exportedall over the world. The red and white wines of Bordeaux are madefrom a blend of different varieties. This is partly explained by thechangeable climate. Having a number of different varieties acts as

THE TERROIRSThe vineyards of Bordeaux are planted on relatively flat land in anumber of different soil types such as clay, sand, gravel andlimestone.

The mother rock of the region was laid down in the Tertiaryperiod (over 2 million years ago) and became overlaid by clay,sands from the Landes area to the south and by deposits of gravelin elevated areas brought by the Garonne River, mostly from thePyrenees and in some areas from the Massif Central.

The most ideally suited soils for vine growing are those that arewell-drained and infertile, allowing an arrêt de croissance (themoment when the vine switches from nourishing its foliage tonourishing its fruit - essential in the development of qualitygrapes).

Generally the cooler, clayey soils (predominantly found on theRight bank but also found elsewhere) suit the Merlot, and thewarmer, free-draining gravel (predominantly on the Left bank butalso found in pockets on the Right) suits Cabernet Sauvignon.

There are two main types of “super” soil in Bordeaux that producethe finest wines. The oldest type of soil is the compacted hardasteries limestone which dates back to the Tertiary period some 50


BORDEAUX WINES WERE ALWAYS AGED IN BARRELS UNTIL THE DEVELOPMENT OF BOTTLING AT THE CHATEAU IN THE 20TH CENTURY

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HOW DO YOU DEFINE YOUR TERROIR ? Terroir is one of the main factors of why one wine tastesdifferent from another. It is the blueprint, the starting point.Terroir is what gives the grapes their uniqueness, which in turndefines the wine’s style. It is not just the soil but the whole vineenvironment, including its micro-climate and its setting.

COMTE ERIC D’ARAMON, CHÂTEAU FIGEAC,PRÉMIER CRU CLASSÉ ST EMILIONSurface: 40 hectaresProduction: 100 000 bottlesGeology: 3 mounds of gravelsVarieties: 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, 30%MerlotAt the very western end of theappellation on the borders of Pomerolwe find the Graves of St-Emilionwhere gravel soils predominate. TheGunzian graves de feu was brought hereby the Dordogne River and by itstributaries, the Isle and Dronne rivers.The gravel originates from theQuaternary period and comes notfrom the Pyrenees but from the olderMassif Central.It is these warm gravels that are well-suited to the late-ripeningCabernet Sauvignon which is rare in the rest of St Emilion.lt is deposited in five mounds; two in the vineyards of Cheval Blanc,while the remaining three are found at Figeac. They have an altitudeof 36 - 38 metres above sea level, and the gravelly soils are generally7- 12 metres deep. As owner Eric d’Aramon says, “When we excavatedthe soil to build our cellars in the 1970s we saw that the vine rootshad dug down several metres to reach the water table.” At Figeac, unlike its neighbours Cheval Blanc, clay combines with thegravel which is particularly well-suited to the Cabernet Franc grape.This unique terroir makes Figeac “a wine of finesse and elegance”,according to d’Aramon.

HENRI LURTON, CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC,2EME CRU CLASSÉ, MAUGAUXSurface: 75 hectaresProduction: 150 000 bottlesGeology: Deep-lying gravels from the Quaternary periodVarieties: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4.5%Cabernet Franc, 0.5% CarmenèreContinuing the research done into thesoils of the property by ProfessorSeguin at the University of Bordeauxand by his father Lucien, Henri Lurtoncommissioned his own geologicalmap of the vineyards of Brane-Cantenac in 2003 by Pierre Viaud. Itidentified the 75-hectare vineyard asdivided into four main soil typesproducing very different wines. Asowner Henri Lurton says “Brane-

Cantenac is a vin d’assemblage and there is much work to marry thesedifferent wines from different terroirs. But it is this that gives the wineits complexity.” Henri Lurton started working on the estate in 1986and over the years has come to know his different terroirs intimately.“During harvest in 2006, we had a down-pour and I knew that dueto the excellent drainage on the gravel plateau in front of theChâteau, I could leave picking the grapes for a couple of days andtend to more urgent plots!”The four main types of terroir include: The Plateau of Brane: 30 hectares of a high mound of GravesGaronnaises, 22 metres at its summit. It has a high percentage of claywhich ensures that vines have access to water during dry periods“drop by drop”. The water table is very low at 5 - 6 metres.Behind the Château: 15 hectares of more recent gravels and sandsNotton: 13 hectares of deep gravels of the Quaternary period of6 metres depth La Verdotte: 10 hectares of sand and gravels with some iron subsoils

PHILIBERT PERRIN, CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX,GRAND CRU CLASSÉ DE GRAVESGeology: Deep gravel on slopesRed Vineyard Surface : 50 hectaresProduction: 200 000 bottlesRed Varieties: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and CarmenèreWhite Vineyard Surface: 42 hectaresProduction: 180 000 bottlesWhite Varieties: 65% Sémillon, 35% SauvignonFounded by Benedictine monks in the 13th century, vines have beengrown on this terroir for over seven centuries. The extraordinaryvariety of its terroir means that it is well suited to both the red andwhite varieties of Bordeaux and was amongst only six out of the 16estates classified in 1959.The property is located on a graveloutcrop deposited by the Garonneriver, brought from the Pyreneesduring the Quaternary era. It overliesthe older substratum of limestone(from the Tertiary era) which showsthrough at the base of the mound,having been eroded over thousands ofyears. It is well-drained and ripens thegrapes early. “We work continually torefine the choice of grape variety, itsclone and rootstock, to the soil and themicro-climate” stresses Philibert Perrin,Château Carbonnieux owner with hisbrother Eric. “It is not just about soil,we have found that the whites benefitfrom the coolness brought by theirproximity to the woods on the estate.”Cabernet Sauvignon is well-suited tothe large gravel, Merlot to the finegravel and clay, and the clayeylimestone soils suit the white varieties of Sémillon and Sauvignon.

Eric Perrin

Philibert Perrin

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WHITE VARIETIES1% of surface of all planted vineyards

Semillon: 53%Sauvignon: 38%Muscadelle: 6%Colombard, Chenin, Ugni Blanc and others: 3%

Despite competition from new world countries, Bordeauxcontinues to be a key player in today's wine world. In 2009 itproduced a total of 661 million bottles which equates to 3.37billion euros. Sixty-eight percent of volume is sold in France. Therest (in terms of volume) is exported to Germany, China, Belgium,UK and Japan. In terms of value, Hong Kong is top of the leaguewith the UK, China and Belgium following.

The quality of the wines produced in Bordeaux continues toimprove. Over the last two decades it was technological advancesin winemaking that made the difference. Today it is in the vineyardthat the big changes are taking place as producers undertakeresearch to study their terroirs, analyse their soils regularly and usesustainable practices to enhance soil quality.

a safeguard against the loss of an entire crop of a one variety, aseach flowers and is harvested at different times.

As a rule of thumb, in the warmer, drier soils of the Right Bank thelater-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon grape predominates, whereasin the wetter, cooler, more clayey soils of the Left Bank, Merlotexcels. Of course there are exceptions.

In the blend of red wines the Cabernet Sauvignon gives the back-bone and tannic structure, the Merlot the flesh and juiciness, andthe Cabernet Franc brings aromatics. For the white wines theacidity and freshness comes from the Sauvignon and the Semillongives the richness on the palate.

RED VARIETIES89% of surface of all planted vineyards

Merlot: 63%Cabernet Sauvignon: 25%Cabernet Franc: 11%Malbec, Petit Verdot and others : 1%

MERLOT IS THE MOST WIDELY USEDOF THE BORDEAUX VARIETIES

SOME ESTATES ARE USINGWOODEN VATS AGAIN

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The wind howls down your chimney as the snowdrifts

pile up under the windows. You pause - swirling the

warming red wine around in your glass - and think of

that delightful rosé, the perfect accompaniment to a long lunch

on a sun-drenched Provençal terrace last summer. You can still

hear the music of the cicadas and the laughter of friends and

family against the background clink of glasses, porcelain and

cutlery. The fragrances of thyme, basil, ripe tomatoes and lamb

roasting on a spit. Green and black olives and the amber of their

oil, against the dark velvety green of a cypress. And the enticing

pale strawberry pink of that rosé, with its fresh, fruity flavours…

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BY JANET EDSFORTH-STONE

ProvenceA look at the five main

rosé wine areas

Cabernet Sauvignon adds tannic weight to many cuvées

throughout the region.

COTEAUX DES BAUX DEPROVENCEThis is the smallest of the five appellations, with just eight

villages and 15 wine domaines in production on both slopes

of the Alpilles, grouped around the stunning rock formations

of Les Baux de Provence village in the Bouches-du-Rhône. The

soil is mainly chalk-clay, its stony nature providing good

drainage.

Production of rosé runs at around 30% of total output. The

regional Counoise grape variety may be added in small

quantities to the traditional varieties and Cabernet Sauvignon

The rosé wines of Provence, bearing the name of France’s best-

known region worldwide, account for at least 8% of total

international rosé production. A good enough invitation to

enjoy this delicious region’s hospitality: not just its wine

domaines but also its inns, wine bars and restaurants.

Historical sites, cultural events, beauty spots, the beaches

when the heat calls for water. And to start your trip, a promenade

through the wine regions.

Well over 50% of the total 27,000 hectares under cultivation

is in rosé and falls for the most part in the Bouches-du-Rhône

and Var départements, covering five main appellations. Each has

its own geology and terroirs, while the region’s principal rosé

grape varieties - Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan and

Mourvèdre - feature in most but not all of them. The ubiquitous


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THE FIVE MAIN ROSÉ WINE AREAS


COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCECovering a wide area around the delightful university town of

Aix en Provence, the soils here are similar to those of the Les

Baux appellation. However, rosé production in this area rises

to 55% of total wine output over the 3,500 hectares under

cultivation. The grape varieties used are also nearly identical,

including the optional addition of small amounts of

Counoise.

Nearly 50 villages, more than 70 wine domaines and chateaux

and some 15 wine co-ops are involved in production. The

wines - light, fruity and aromatic - are a perfect accompaniment

to fish dishes, in particular nearby Marseille’s famous

bouillabaisse.

COTEAUX VAROIS ENPROVENCEThis region spreads out around Brignoles in the centre of the

Var, its western border at St-Maximin la Sainte-Baume. Soils

are stony chalk-clay with silex here and there, with a wide

variety of mini-terroirs. Some 55% of production on the

nearly 2,000 total hectares under cultivation is in rosé. The

regional Tibouren grape variety may be added to the traditional

varieties and Cabernet Sauvignon for an extra touch of finesse.

While Provençal rosés come in a variety of colours ranging

from palest pink to deep coral, salmon pink is one of the

nuances often seen here. Aromas and flavours run from light

red berry fruit and citrus to spicy, exotic notes.

BANDOLCentred on the Mediterranean town of Bandol and spreading

inland, this small appellation - some 1,400 hectares, barely

20% of it in rosé - is renowned for its highly successful use of

the Mourvèdre grape variety. For the rosés, the two other varieties

normally used are Grenache and Cinsault. Mourvèdre finds

one of its finest expressions in the chalky marl soils and

favourable maritime micro-climate of this appellation.

The colour often runs from a medium to deep salmon, with

aromas and flavours of citrus fruit and spice when young,

evolving to nuances of honey and dried fruit after 4-5 years.

Mourvèdre yields are kept low, producing wines with good

structure and concentration.

to contribute an elegant touch. A striking feature of this

tightly knit appellation is that 85% of its surface is under

organic or biodynamic cultivation - environmental concerns

being high on the producers’ list of priorities.

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AN INVITATION TO ENJOY THIS DELICIOUS REGION’S HOSPITALITY

Provence: A look at the five main rosé wine areas


Based on the traditional varieties plus Cabernet Sauvignon, these

rosés run from a soft pink to pale salmon. Complex aromas of

fresh and exotic fruit blend with floral and spicy notes. Like so

many of the region’s rosés, these are fresh on the attack and

smoothly rounded on the palate.

Rosés from across the Provençal appellations are delightful matches

for summer vegetables, fish and fish soups. They also partner spicy

Indian dishes and a variety of oriental cuisines to perfection. And

they’re hard to beat as an aperitif on a warm summer evening.

CÔTES DE PROVENCE -THE COASTThe Côtes de Provence appellation, by far the largest in the

region, covers some 20,000 hectares for all three colours

and runs from the Bouches-du-Rhône in the west, through

the Var and into the western area of the Alpes-Maritimes. An

overwhelming 85% of production is in rosé, with the Var

responsible for the lion’s share of this. The coastal region,

running east from Toulon to St Raphaël, is a homogeneous one,

with crystalline soils providing terroirs differing from those else-

where in the appellation - and from the other regional appellations.

ROSÉS FROM ACROSS THE PROVENÇAL APPELLATIONS ARE DELIGHTFUL MATCHESFOR SUMMER VEGETABLES, FISH AND FISH SOUPS

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LES BAUX DEPROVENCE

LA RIBOTO DE TAVEN

Tel. +33 (0)4 90 54 34 23

www.riboto-de-taven.fr

MAS DU VIGUEIRAT

Tel. +33 (0)4 90 92 56 07

www.masduvigueirat.alpilles.fr

MAS DE L'OULIVIÉ

Tel. +33 (0)4.90 54 35 78

www.masdeloulivie.com

LES COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE

LE CLOS DES FRÈRES GRIS

Tel. +33 (0)4 42 24 13 57

http://freres.gris.free.fr

LA ROYANTE

Tel. +33 (0)4 42 03 83 42

www.laroyante.com

BANDOL

HOSTELLERIE BÉRARD & SPA

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 90 11 43

www.hotel-berard.com

LES QUATRE SAISONS

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 25 24 90

www.lesquatresaisons.org

LE CLOS DE LA CHÈVRE SUD

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 32 31 54

www.closdelachevre.com

LA CÔTE

L’HIRONDELLE BLANCHE

Tel. +33 (0)4 98 11 84 03

www.hirondelle-blanche.fr

LE PRÉ AUX MARGUÉRITES

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 89 11 20

www.bonporto.com

LA FERME D’AUGUSTIN

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 55 97 00

www.fermeaugustin.com

COTEAUXVAROIS

LA MAISON DE ROCBARON

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 04 24 03

www.maisonderocbaron.com

LA SARRAZINE

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 73 20 27

www.lasarrazine.com

UNE CAMPAGNE EN PROVENCE

Tel. +33 (0)4 98 05 10 20

www.provence4u.com


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WHERE TO STAY IN THE CÔTES DE PROVENCE

Where to stay in the Côtes de Provence


WINING AND DINING IN THE CÔTES DE PROVENCE

LES BAUX DEPROVENCE

OUSTAU DE BAUMANIERE

Tel. +33 (0)4 90 54 33 07

www.oustaudebaumaniere.com

LES COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE

MITCH

Tel. +33 (0)4 42 26 63 08

www.mitchrestaurant.com

LA CAVE D’YVES

Tel. +33 (0)4 42 93 75 80

www.lacavedyves.com

BANDOL

HOSTELLERIE BÉRARD & SPA

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 90 11 43

www.hotel-berard.com

LE KV & B

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 74 85 77

http://lekvb.fr

LA CÔTE

BAR SAINT JOSEPH

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 43 28 84

GRAIN DE SEL

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 54 46 86

www.restaurant-cogolin.com

LE VICE VERSA

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 65 23 90

COTEAUX VAROIS

HOSTELLERIE DE L’ABBAYE DE LA CELLE

Tel. +33 (0)4 98 05 14 14

http://abbaye-celle.com

RESTAURANT BRUNO

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 85 93 93

www.restaurantbruno.com

VINS SUR VINGT

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 77 82 66

www.la-provence-verte.net/activites/

detail-restaurants.php?ref=568


QUALITY FACTORS

Until the beginning of the 19th century, rosé, or clairet as it was called, was virtuallythe only type of wine produced - except, of course, for whites. From that point on,due to advances in wine production, red wine would gradually begin to eclipserosés, given its capacity for storage and transport. Nonetheless, the last decade hasseen a remarkable revival of rosé wines, which are experiencing a boom in popularity.So what explains the growing success of rosés?

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Rosés stay the course

Rosés, currently appreciated for

their fragrant freshness as soon as

summer temperatures start rising,

are often not well understood. The first

thing to know about rosé is that, in France,

it is never a blend of white and red wine

(except in the appellation of Champagne).

However, it can be made by mixing white

and red grapes or the juice from these after

they have been pressed. Generally speaking,

rosés are made from red grapes, although

some include a percentage of white grapes.

So how does rosé get its distinctive pink

colour? There are two distinct methods,

known as rosé de presse (pressing) and rosé

de saignée (bleeding off). The former

involves putting the crushed grapes in a vat

where they start fermenting. The colour

contained in the grape skins gradually dissolves

in the juice as the temperature increases.

The winemaker monitors this process carefully

by taking samples, and when the wine

reaches the desired colour, the juice is taken



ROSÉS ARE MADE FROM RED GRAPES,SOME INCLUDE WHITE GRAPES

out of contact with the skins and removed to another container

so fermentation can be completed without further colour input.

Rosé de saignée is produced by ”bleeding off” the vat. This

involves progressively removing juice from the vat during the

fermentation of red wine. This process requires a high degree

of technical skill and experience, as it is very difficult to produce

a consistent wine using this method. The fermentation of the

skins can range from 7 hours to up to 48 hours, depending

on the region, the quality of the grapes and the winemaker’s

judgement.

IN THE PINKTo give credit where credit is due, Tavel is the first stop in our

tour of French rosés. Tavel rosés are dry, fruity but powerful, elegant

and characterised by their southern-accented grape varieties.

Their structure and spicy finish allow them to pair well with any

dish, on the right occasion and at the right temperature.

Another big region for rosés is Provence. Its winemaking

reputation rests on rosé wines, although the region also produces

whites and reds that are increasingly gaining attention. The

various rosés of the Côtes de Provence are produced from the

harvests of five main types of terroirs, each with quite distinctive

characteristics. The wines from the area between the coast and

the Massif des Maures, for example, generally have a lighter,

more mineral character than those from further inland, where

the chalky terroir results in higher concentration. Aside from

these general conditions, many other factors also play a role in

the final result, including grape yield and the skill of the wine-

maker. In a nutshell, the aromatic range of Côtes de Provence

rosés is vast, from light, charming wines with a nose of candy

and flowers, perfect for an aperitif; to others with a mineral or

spicy bouquet suitable for pairing with grilled fish; and yet

others that are heady, fruity and fat and go well with desserts.

These aspects are all equally true of other appellations in

Provence, such as Bandol, Baux de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix and

Coteaux Varois. All use the same grape varieties in different

proportions: the terroir and the winemaker are the decisive factors

in the resulting wine (see the Travel section for a special report

on Provence, pages 45-52).

ROSÉ OR CLAIRET?Talking about rosé in Bordeaux is almost seen as an insult to the

classic red and white wines that have made the region’s reputation

over the last two centuries. However, it is important not to forget

that ”claret”, as it was called by the British, long represented the

bulk of wine production in Bordeaux and southwestern France.

Today, Bordeaux rosés have come back into fashion, as have its

clairets, although the latter are restricted to a smaller area.

Bordeaux rosés, if rather modest in terms of bouquet (the grape

varieties of the Gironde are not particularly adapted to this type

of vinification), have an advantageous price, whether in restaurants

and bars or via traditional distribution channels. The reason is

simple: they can be produced more rapidly and do not require

as many months of ageing in wine cellars as do their red

counterparts. They are generally light, with a bouquet of red

fruits and tangy candy, and can be considered ”thirst-quenching

wines”. On the other hand, clairets (whether these can be

considered rosés is another question) are the result of a longer

fermentation with the grape skins, similar to that of red wines,

giving them more body and character. Their aromas lean

towards ripe red fruit, caramel and toasted oak. They are often

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FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

CÔTES DE PROVENCE LA LONDE A.C. Domaine Saint-André de FiguièreCuvée Confidentielle 2010Brilliant pale pink. Focused nose of red berries. Finesse andelegance are key themes on the palate which is nervy withclear-cut fruit. Very fresh finish showing a hint of spice.A re f ined rosédrinking well withgrilled fish.

89/100


fleshy and round and are very appealing. They are excellent as

an aperitif wine or with light, aromatic or exotic cuisine.

Other regions in the southwest also produce rosés, for example,

Bergeracois, Côtes du Marmandais, Côtes de Duras and Buzet,

without forgetting Côtes du Frontonnais, whose rosés have the

particularity of a high percentage of Négrette, a characteristic

variety of this winegrowing area. Farther south, the wines of

Béarn and the Basque country also include a diverse range of

good rosés.

MARSANNAY RHYMES WITH ROSÉA rosé from Burgundy? You can’t be serious. Yet the first wine-

growing village in the Côte de Nuits heading south from Dijon

is Burgundy’s sole producer of a communal appellation rosé. The

impetus came after the Second World War from Joseph Clair, a

local producer who had been making rosé since 1919 (and largely

ignored) and the tradition endured. The rosés of Marsannay are

among the most unique in France. Sweet and fruity, they have

good acidity and an expressive bouquet of strawberry and raspberry.

QUALITY FACTORS

THE ROSÉS OF MARSANNAY AREAMONG THE MOST UNIQUE IN FRANCE

MARSANNAY IS BURGUNDY’S SOLE PRODUCER OF A COMMUNAL

APPELLATION ROSÉ

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THE LOIREAnother essential discovery is the rosés of the Loire. First, the

Sancerre, a rosé made from Pinot Noir. If it is little known, it is

likely the fault of the long acclaimed white Sancerre. Light and

fruity, this rosé has a fresh and fruity fragrance. Anjou and

Touraine also make a variety of rosés, but with different grape

varieties. The rosé of the Loire is dry and fruity, including at

least 30% Cabernet Franc, and can be produced throughout the

Loire Valley, whereas Anjou rosés use Cabernet Franc, plus a little

Cabernet Sauvignon, and are limited to the appellation of Anjou.

Available in dry or semi-dry, Loire rosés have a bouquet of flowers

and fruit sometimes enhanced by notes of candied fruit or caramel.

Anjou rosé, on the other hand, is made from Groslot grapes and

seems to have lost speed in recent years. The Touraine also produces

many rosés, such as the generic appellation Touraine, of course,

but also more localised and personalised wines based on local

varieties such as Pineau d’Aunis and Cot, for example. Other

Loire rosés include Cheverny, Coteaux du Loir (rare because of

the tiny production area) and Coteaux du Vendômois, and the

wines of Thouarsais (in Deux-Sèvres) and Valençay have excellent

surprises in store if opened at the right moment and enjoyed

with a simple dish from the region.

UNCLASSED WINESApart from wines whose name is known thanks to the reputation

of a region’s reds or whites, there are certain rosés that can only

be discovered by going out of your way to find them. For example,

the rosés of the Vendée, which come from four winegrowing

areas: Brem, Mareuil-sur-Lay-Dissais, Vix and Pissotte. These

regional wines will delight you if you have the chance to sample

them with the local cuisine during a stay there. Other rosés that

ADVERTORIAL

Abbaye Sainte-Marie dePierredon: a miraculous siteEmerging from a valley of cypress, olive and almond trees risesthe sole bell tower remaining of all the abbeys built by themonastic order of Chalais at the end of the 11th century and thebeginning of the 12th century. This magical place itself was verynearly wiped from the map and from our memories luckily, itescaped this fate.

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Abbaye Sainte-Marie de Pierredon: a miraculous site


The site is nestled against the southern slope of the

Alpilles massif in Provence, just opposite from the

famous Château Romanin. This haven for nature

lovers is part of the Alpilles nature reserve created in 2006. In

2001, Lorenzo Pellicioli, an Italian businessman, fell in love

with this incredible site and decided to buy it. The estate, located

in the centre of the nature reserve, spreads over a largely

untouched area, traversed only by a few dirt roads. Fascinated

by both the landscape and the abbey’s history, Pellicioli set

about renovating the chapel, the house and the gardens,

recreating an impressive family estate that is today enjoyed by

three generations.

The next step was to clean out and restore the property’ssprings to provide a source of water. Geologists were called into study the terrain to see if it could support a vineyard and anolive grove and to find the most suitable plots for planting.Once these areas were identified, they were cleared, developedto show them off to their best advantage, and planted withgrapevines and olive trees. In 2004, Laurence Berlemont’sCabinet d'Agronomie Provençale (Agency of ProvenceAgronomy) took up the challenge of completely recreating theagricultural activity that had long ago disappeared from thesite. Three years later, the estate boasted 10 hectares ofvineyards and 7 hectares of olive trees, cultivated organically;the first harvest took place in 2008.

For the final touch in this faithful reconstruction of theoriginal site, a herd of goats wanders among almond trees,lavender and truffle oaks, supplying the milk for artisanalgoat’s cheese.

In the same spirit and in tribute to the history of the abbey, thenames of the wines produced here are inspired by the rhythmof the monastic day from dawn to dusk: for example, PrimaLuce (the first light at dawn) and Ultima Laude (the finalevening prayer). The wine labels evoke the stained glass of theMiddle Ages, honouring the memory of the monks who livedhere for centuries.

ABBAYE SAINTE-MARIE DE PIERREDONLes Alpilles13210 Saint-Rémy de ProvenceTel. +33 (0)4 90 18 47 09 Fax +33 (0)4 90 18 47 03

[email protected]

CABINET D’AGRONOMIE PROVENÇALERoute de Vins Sur Caramy83170 Brignoleswww.cabagronomie.fr

LORENZOPELLICIOLIAND HISWIFE ATPIERREDON

ABBAYE DEPIERREDON IS

LOCATED IN THECENTRE OF THENATURE RESERVE

WATER HASREVITALIZED THE

ESTATE

LAURENCEBERLEMONT


QUALITY FACTORS

are a well-kept secret are those from the Côtes du Rhône. Not

only do the Rhône villages have the right to produce rosé, some

do it exceedingly well, such as Chusclan and Sablet. In Ardèche,

on the other side of the Rhône, Côtes du Vivarais rosés also deserve

to be discovered, and are remarkably good value. Gigondas

itself comes in a rosé version, made from the same varieties

used to make the red (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and

Cinsault), and often has a good structure, making it pair well

with spicy dishes. Not to be outdone, the Jura produces rosés

from the Arbois appellation, made from Trousseau, Poulsard

and Pinot Noir grapes. Fermented longer than most standard

rosés, they often have a darker colour, and their fragrant bou-

quet contains hints of the terroir, making them a perfect match

for local specialities.

A fitting way to end our tour of these ideal summer wines is a

visit to the Mediterranean sun of Corsica. Its rosés, made

mainly from Nielluccio grapes, go fantastically with its famous

sheep’s cheese.

In view of the diversity of rosés, how widespread they are, and

their enduring commercial success over time, rosés have proved

themselves real wines and not just a passing trend; that much

is not in doubt. Perhaps to give them the place they deserve, we

need to learn to understand them better, even if it means changing

stubborn habits.Gilbert & Gaillard

OUR PICKS

BORDEAUXBordeaux A.C.86/100 Château Castenet Greffier Vintage 2010 4.7 €86/100 Baron de Montfort La Rose de Monbadon 2010 6.00 €85/100 Château La France Vintage 2009 4.90 €Bordeaux Clairet A.C.86/100 Château Penin Vintage 2010 6.40 €

Here is our selection of French rosés that received the bestscores in our recent tastings (at least 85/100). They arecategorised by winegrowing region, by appellation and byscore. You can also refer to our tasting notes on our websitewww.gilbertgaillard.com or now on your smartphone.

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90/100 Bandol A.C.Domaine La Suffrène 2010



89/100 Sancerre A.C.Michel Vattan 2009

88/100Tavel A.C.Domaine des Carabiniers 2010

87/100 Languedoc A.C.Mas des Dames 2010

CORSEVin de Corse Calvi A.C.86/100 Domaine A Ronca Vintage 2010 7.00 €

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONCorbières A.C.86/100 Cellier des Demoiselles Rosé des Demoiselles 2010 4.95 €87/100 Château Beauregard Mirouze Tradition 2010 6.50 €85/100 Château Prieuré Borde Rouge Rubellis 2010 5.50 €Languedoc A.C.87/100 Mas des Dames Vintage 2009 3.95 €85/100 Cave de l'Ormarine Préambule 2010 3.60 €Pays d'Oc I.G.P.88/100 Domaine Savary de Beauregard Mathilde 2010 6.80 €86/100 Puychéric Vintage 2010 4.65 €86/100 Domaine les Quatre Amours Vintage 2010 7.00 €85/100 Mas Pellier Grenache 2010 5.00 €85/100 Domaine de la Clapière Jalades 2010 6.00 €

Saint-Chinian A.C.87/100 Cave de Roquebrun Ta Fiole de Rosé 2010 6.30 €86/100 Château Belot Le Vignalet 2010 5.00 €Vin de Pays du Gard88/100 Domaine des Cantarelles Chloé 2010 4.50 €

LOIRE VALLEYCabernet d'Anjou A.C.85/100 Domaine de Flines Vintage 2010 4.70 €Chinon A.C.87/100 J. Spelty Cabernet Franc 2010 5.20 €Coteaux du Giennois A.C.86/100 Philippe Raimbault Vintage 2010 6.30 €Rosé d'Anjou A.C.85/100 Domaine de Montgilet Vintage 2010 5.00 €Sancerre A.C.89/100 Michel Vattan Vintage 2009 7.50 €


QUALITY FACTORS


ROSÉS AROUND THE WORLD

World production of rosé wines is difficult to evaluatebecause most national and international statistics grouptogether the production of reds and rosés. According to thedata available, world production of rosés represents less than10% (18-20 million hectolitres in 2001-02) of the totalvolume of wines (of all colours) produced across fivecontinents. Around a quarter of this production is in France,which is the largest producer of rosés in the world. Nextcome Italy and Spain, each of which produce around 4million hectolitres. Thus, Europe produces almost three-quarters of the world’s rosés, well ahead of the United States(20%) and North Africa (2%). The French region ofProvence alone represents almost 8% of the market. Almostall rosés are produced for domestic consumption in theregion or country of origin. Thus, the main producingcountries are also the main consuming countries (France,Italy, Spain and the United States). Rosés represent over 10%of these countries’ total wine consumption.

RHÔNE VALLEYCostières de Nîmes A.C.

85/100 Château Lamargue Les Grandes Cabanes 2010 5.50 €85/100 Domaine des Cantarelles Vintage 2010 5.00 €Côtes du Rhône A.C.

87/100 Domaine des Bernardins Rosé des Balmes 2010 5.20 €87/100 Domaine de Magalanne Vintage 2010 4.35 €86/100 Esprit du Silène Vintage 2010 6.90 €86/100 Les Vignerons du Castelas Vintage 2010 3.90 €Côtes du Rhône-Villages Laudun A.C.

85/100 Laudun Chusclan Vignerons

Prestige des Granges 2010 5.50 €Lirac A.C.

86/100 Cave des Vins de Cru Lirac Vieilles Vignes 2010 6.00 €85/100 Cave des Vins de Cru Lirac Tradition 2010 5.25 €Tavel A.C.

88/100 Domaine des Carabiniers Vintage 2010 9.50 €Vaucluse I.G.P.

87/100 Domaine de Tara Terre d'Ocres 2010 5.20 €Ventoux A.C.

86/100 Domaine du Bon Remède Pensée Sauvage 2010 5.00 €86/100 Saurette Découvertes 2009 5.75 €

SOUTH-WESTBergerac A.C.

87/100 Château Pique-Sègue Vintage 2010 4.84 €Fronton A.C.

85/100 Château Coutinel Vintage 2010 6.00 €

88/100 Philippe Raimbault Apud Sariacum 2010 9.00 €88/100 Vincent Grall Vintage 2010 7.60 €87/100 Domaine Henry Natter Vintage 2010 n/a87/100 François Millet Vintage 2009 7.50 €86/100Michel Vattan Vintage 2010 7.50 €Touraine A.C.87/100 Antoine et Vincent Dupuy Noble Joué 2010 4.20 €86/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay Les Cabotines 2010 4.70 €85/100 Domaine de la Renne Ciel de la loire 2010 3.55 €

PROVENCEBandol A.C.90/100 Domaine La Suffrène Vintage 2010 11.00 €90/100 Château de Berne Cuvée Spéciale 2010 8.00 €89/100 Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2010 13.00 €88/100 Domaine Le Galantin Vintage 2010 10.50 €Coteaux Varois en Provence A.C.86/100 Château de la Prégentière Vintage 2009 12.00 €85/100 Domaine Les Vallons de Fontfresque

Cuvée des Tamaris 2009 7.50 €Côtes de Provence A.C.90/100 Clos Cibonne Cuvée Prestige Caroline 2009 16.00 €89/100 Château du Galoupet Vintage 2010 10.20 €89/100 Clos Cibonne Cuvée Tendance 2010 10.00 €88/100 Château Barbeiranne Cuvée Camille 2010 12.10 €88/100 Domaine de Grandpré Cuvée Favorite 2009 6.00 €87/100 Château Cavalier Vintage 2010 9.00 €87/100 Fleur de l'Amaurigue Vintage 2010 7.00 €87/100 Domaine Les Maurines Cuvée Découverte 2010 6.00 €Côtes de Provence La Londe A.C.89/100 Domaine de l'Angueiroun Prestige 2010 13.20 €

BANDOL A.C. Domaine de l'Olivette 2010Pale orangy hue. Very focusednose marrying red berry fruitswith a delicate mineral tone.On the palate, a fleshy, expressiverosé showing great aromaticpurity. Lingering citrus fruit-dominated finish.

89/100

BANDOL A.C. La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande TraditionPale pink. Very fresh, endearingnose with floral and focusedfruit accents. The palate isquite tonic and shows apronounced, upfront crispand spicy dimension. The finish remains fresh and isaugmented by a clutch of peppery notes.

86/100

SÉGOLÈNE, PRESIDENT OF THE COMPANY

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WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

www.leclercbriant.com

This family-run estate was managed by Pascal Leclerc-Briant until hissudden death in October 2010. The oldest of his four daughters, the 27-year-old Ségolène, took over with her radiant energy and the supportof her three sisters. Together, they continue in their father’s footsteps,transmitting his values and his passion for winemaking.

role overnight. Before this, I had only been involved in seasonalwork, and I had a bit of sales and marketing experience gainedat the estate.”

Through force of circumstance, Ségolène knew Champagnewell: its grapevines, wines and how to enjoy them. But herorientation was the totally different world of publishing,following a degree in French language and literature, with anoption in art history. She also had various trips around theworld under her belt, including time spent in Spain andLausanne, Switzerland, where she received a qualification inhotel management.

“My father always encouraged us to do what interested us andwhat we enjoyed. He used to tell us that you never know what

Pascal Leclerc-Briant had just finished harvesting his grapes

when he passed away on October 6, 2010 at the age of 60.

”He barely had time to taste the wines from that year’s

grapes,” relates his oldest daughter, Ségolène. The loss of this passionate,

warm, well-liked winemaker was a shock to the Champagne wine

world. Leclerc-Briant was an apostle of biodynamics, a growing

method that prioritises respect for the grapevines and the environment.

”He was curious about everything. He was bursting with ideas about

winemaking and travelled all over the world to find out about different

methods,” says Ségolène.

At the age of 27, Ségolène took over the management of the

house, becoming president of Leclerc-Briant: “This turn of

events wasn’t predestined. I more or less found myself in this

Champagne Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters


Champagne Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters

the future holds. All the experience I gained in otherfields is useful to what I’m doing now. I speak threelanguages fluently, and I’ve learned how to market andtalk about our wines,” says the young director.

A TRIBUTE TO PASCALTaking over the management of the estate was not asimple formality. Ségolène and her three sisters, Astrid,Sonia and Diane, suddenly found themselves confrontedwith urgent decisions that needed to be taken. “We hadto respond quickly. Importers and customers wanted toknow what was going to happen to the brand,” explainsSégolène.

Finding herself president of the company on October 7,the day after her father’s death, Ségolène managed tofind the energy and audacity to take on the challenge. “Ourfather was liked and respected in Champagne. That reallyhelped us.” This trust was very valuable at a difficult time, bothemotionally and professionally.

Since then, Ségolène has surprised observers as well as herself.“I’m interested in everything about the process, particularlyvinification and marketing. I would like to see us producingsome of our wines in barrels. We plan to experiment with thisat the next harvest. And my sisters and I would like to pay tributeto our father with a special vintage from the 2010 harvest,” shesays. “Perhaps a rosé blend,” adds Astrid, age 25, who hasbeen working at her sister’s side since their father passed away.“I’m a philosophy teacher. When our father died, I was teachingat a lycée in Ardennes. I resigned so I could come and helpSégolène, but I may go back to teaching at some stage.”

THIS CHARMING QUARTET REPRESENTS THE SIXTH GENERATION OF THIS FAMILY OF WINEMAKERS

CHAMPAGNE LECLERC BRIANT

67, rue Chaude Ruelle BP 108 - 51204 Epernay Cedex - FranceTel. +33 (0)3 26 54 45 33 - www.leclercbriant.com

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Ségolène is delighted to be able to count on Astrid, who isinvolved in certain aspects of the winemaking process. Theirtwo other sisters are still students. Sonia, aged 22, is studyingbusiness in Paris, and Diane, 19, just began medical school.“We are very close,” affirms Ségolène on behalf of this charmingquartet who represent the sixth generation of this family ofwinemakers, and who possess a luminous intelligence of whichPascal can be proud.

Jean Batilliet

Ségolène Astrid

Sonia Diane


When Paris-born Suzel went to Nice to visit her best

friend from school in the early 1960s, she had

neither marriage nor wine in mind. However, her

friend’s husband was a friend of Jacques de Lanversin and the rest,

as they say, is history. Suzel and Jacques married in 1965, and

before long they were busy renovating a ruin to live in while they

pondered the best use of the slopes on this domaine in Saint-

Maximin la Sainte-Baume, 35 km east of Aix-en-Provence.

Jacques was a professor of law at the university in Aix before he

bought the 14 hectares of stony chalk-clay soil in 1963 and

became a vigneron following his dreams. A tentative start was

made with plantings of Grenache and Cinsault, but a change in

the appellation laws forced him to rip these out and start again.

“Over the next 10 years we planted Syrah and Cabernet

Sauvignon, and it went from there,” explains Suzel.

Today Domaine du Deffends has plantings of Cabernet

Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault for the reds - the last

two used for the rosés as well - with Viognier and Rolle for the

whites. “We tried Mourvèdre, but we don’t have the right terroir for

it here,” adds Suzel.

These produce the domaine’s eight cuvées, though not all are made

each year. “In reds, we make Champs de la Truffière and Champs

du Bécassier every year. For the two others, it depends on

conditions. And with occasional exceptions, we make the two

rosés and two whites every year.”

The domaine has been Ecocert-certified since 2009, thanks to

ongoing efforts to keep non-organic intervention to a minimum

SUZEL DE LANVERSIN:“IT’S ALWAYS A CHALLENGE, TRYING TO

EXPRESS THE VERY BEST OF OUR TERROIRS”

Domaine du Deffends: when dreams become reality


www.deffends.com

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How a trip to Nice led to a life amongst the vines...


Domaine du Deffends: when dreams become reality

the rosés. Yields are kept to a minimum, with 35 hl/ha for the

whites, 35-40 for the reds and 45 maximum for the rosés. Most

wines fall under the Coteaux Varois appellation, though both

whites and one rosé are Vins de Pays since the percentage of the

grape variety used falls outside the AOC laws.

Since she was widowed in 2004 Suzel has been at the head of the

domaine, with the help of a cellar master who also looks after the

vines. The Lanversins’ three children, Emmanuel, Anne and Marie-

Liesse, have all followed their own careers. However, they return to

the domaine regularly to help, and will be there to ensure the

continuity of their parents’ dream.

Suzel pauses to reflect on the nature of her work. “One has to be

prepared to adapt from one year to the next. There are so many

different conditions to take into account, not least the weather. It’s

always a challenge, trying to express the very best of our terroirs.

Then contact with the public is so important. But when they

appreciate our wines…”

Janet Edsforth-Stone

”WHEN IT’S HOT, WE CAN HARVEST VERY EARLY IN THE MORNING, THEN STOP AT MIDDAY”

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DOMAINE DU DEFFENDS

83470 St Maximin La Ste Baume - FranceTel. +33 (0)4 94 78 03 91 - www.deffends.com

in both vineyard and cuverie. Weeds are controlled by alternate

ploughing and grassing over between vineyard rows, and all fertiliser

is organic.

Harvesting is three parts mechanical and one part manual, the latter

for areas more difficult to access. For Suzel, the main advantage is

in being able to harvest at exactly the right moment. “Last year, for

instance, harvesting ran for a total of five weeks. For a small

domaine like this, we couldn’t have hired harvesters for that long.

And if it’s hot, we can harvest very early in the morning, then stop

at midday.”

Vinification is classic, with pumping over for the reds, and a light

pressing following maceration rather than the saignée method for


REGION

A pioneering winegrowing region, Languedoc-Roussillon has managed to createa product range consisting of diverse and distinctive appellations side by side withfinely crafted Pays d’Oc wines. Developing these two parallel yet complementarytracks required vision 30 years ago, and today the resulting wines are winningover new markets under the umbrella brand for food and drink products from theregion, Sud de France.

The drive for quality in Languedoc

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FitouFitou

Minervois

St-Chinian

Corbières

Cabardès

Faugères

Maury

Blanquettede Limoux

Languedoc

Languedoc

Muscatde Lunel

Muscat de Mireval

Muscatde

Frontignan

Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois

Côtes duRoussillon

Côtes duRoussillon-Villages

CollioureBanyuls

Malepère

Perpignan

Montpellier

Narbonne

Têt

Aude

Hérault

Clairette du Languedoc



IN LANGUEDOC, VINEYARDS COVER 230,000 HECTARES, OF WHICH 40,000 HECTARES ARE APPELLATIONS

Since 2006, the region’s winemakers have been able to markettheir wine under the label Sud de France, an umbrella brandconceived to promote the region’s food products. Supportedby the regional government, the export branch of Sud deFrance has opened “Maisons de la Région Languedoc-Roussillon” in Shanghai, Brussels, London and New York toshowcase and promote Languedoc-Roussillon products andhelp the region’s businesses build international visibility.Languedoc-Roussillon has been actively involved in the marketingof its wines and in supporting its winemakers in the search fornew customers.

Languedoc-Roussillon was long a bulk winegrowing

region composed mainly of high-yield vineyards. In

order to achieve the level of quality reached today,

this strategy had to be reconsidered. In Languedoc, vineyards

cover 230,000 hectares, of which 40,000 hectares are appellations,

resulting in a volume of 1.25 million hectolitres (Mhl) of

AOC wines, compared to 5.7 Mhl of AOC wines from 88,000

hectares in the Pays d’Oc. Languedoc-Roussillon is France’s

largest producer of wine of all categories, representing 35% of

national production.

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Rivesaltes et Muscatde Rivesaltes


REGION

THE REGION’S TRANSFORMATION IS LARGELY DUE TO THE INNOVATION OFLANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON’S WINEMAKERS

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(2.75 Mhl). For AOC Languedoc wines, the export market represents37% of its total markets, making it the third largest AOC exporterof still wine (521,000 hl). Thus, for AOP and IGP wines combined,Languedoc-Roussillon is the largest wine exporter in France.

EXPORT SYNERGYThe region’s transformation is largely due to the innovation ofLanguedoc-Roussillon’s winemakers. The concept that hascontributed most to building the reputation of Languedoc winesoutside of France is the launch of varietal wines. This was firstintroduced by the wine producer and wholesaler Skalli, and wasfollowed by the Vins de Pays d’Oc in the 1990s. Today, these winesare sold in 150 countries around the world. “In 1999, thanks toBaron de Rothschild and Skalli, varietal wines from the regiongained a foothold in Québec, Canada, where they then paved theway for appellation wines over the last ten years,” says Barthès. Onthis development, both the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vinsdu Languedoc (CIVL) and the organisation of Pays d’Oc wineproducers agree that the two European labels (AOP and IGP)complement each other by making the product offer moreflexible: “The international pattern of wine consumption followsthe Anglo-Saxon model. In terms of varietals, Pays d’Oc has astrong presence in the market, which can then lead curiousconsumers to discover specific appellations in the terroir,”describes Barthès. Another convincing argument she makes in

In 2007, another important development occurred - the creationof the regional appellation Languedoc, which covers the entirewinegrowing region from Nîmes in the east to Castelnaudary inthe west, and stretching south all the way to the Spanish border.This appellation forms the base of the hierarchical categorisationunder discussion by the region’s wine industry today.

In 2009, the European Union brought in regulations to standard-ise wine labelling across its member states, launching AOP(Appellation d’Origine Protégée), the equivalent of the French AOClabel. Under the new guidelines, each producer organisation foran appellation became an ODG (Organisme de Défense et deGestion), authorised to enforce the regulations affecting theirappellation. Another change resulting from this European regulationis that Vins de Pays wines are now to be labelled IGP (IndicationGéographique Protégée), and come under the same authority as theAOC appellations.

“Receiving a European label of quality is recognition of the stridesmade in Vins de Pays wines over the last 30 years,” attests FlorenceBarthes, the executive director of Vins de Pays d’Oc. The range ofLanguedoc-Roussillon wines, the majority of which are IGP(contrary to other French regions), places considerable importanceon quality. In terms of volume, the Pays d’Oc IGP is the numberone exporter in France and the fifth largest exporter in the world



ADVERTORIAL

THE MUSEUM SHOWS RECONSTRUCTED SCENES FROM

ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES

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THE COOPERTIVE CONVERTED AN OLD GYPSUM MINE INTO AN

AGEING CELLAR

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In the southern French region of Corbières, the history ofwine is told at Terra Vinea, where the wine cooperativeof Rocbère - which brings together winemakers from the

village districts of Peyrac, Sigean, Portel-des-Corbières andMonze - has converted an old gypsum mine into an ageing cellar.

The Rocbère winemakers behind this ambitious project havecreated a cellar and museum space of over 770 m² that welcomesmore than 50,000 visitors every year. Located just inland fromthe Mediterranean coast, the village of Portel-des-Corbières issurrounded by the vineyards that produce the reputed Rocbèrewine. A scenic tourist train allows visitors to take in the beauty ofthe landscape around the site, which is perched on a rockoverlooking the vineyards.

Nature stretches as far as the eye can see, interrupted only bythe 13th-century church of Notre Dame des Oubiels (oubiels is

TERRA VINEAFrom Narbonne, take the RN 9 in the direction of Sigean

and follow the road to Portel-des-Corbières. Open daily.

Price: 8.50 € (adults), 1 € (ages 6–9), 3.50 € (ages 10-14) Tel. +33 (0)4 68 48 64 90 - www.terra-vinea.com

an Occitan word meaning ”lambs”). After descending the hundredor so steps that lead to the cellar - 80 metres underground - alight show precedes a labyrinth of arched vaults whereRocbère wines mature in barrels or, for certain grape varieties,in tuns. Spaces dotted around the museum reveal reconstructedscenes from ancient Roman times, and displays of tools relatethe development of grapevine cultivation, cooperage andother important moments in the history of winemaking.

Back above ground, the guided tour concludes with a tastingof the sought-after wines of Rocbère. A shop and restaurantallow you to extend your visit as long as you like.

Terra Vinea: wine tourism with character


REGION

JÉRÔME VILLARET, THE CIVL’S CHIEF REPRESENTATIVE

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support of the region’s strategy is that “high volumes and brands

allow better penetration of developing markets.”

AOP/IGP SYNERGYAlthough the new Europe-wide AOP label does not significantly

affect AOC appellations, the IGP label has a greater impact, covering

all Vins de Pays, including VDQS (Vin Délimité de Qualité

Supérieure), which have opted to be labelled as IGP. The removal

of the VDQS category in France ought to lead to greater transparency

for consumers, particularly in supermarkets. “This reform allows

IGP and AOP wines to be grouped together on supermarket

shelves for whites, reds and rosés - a system currently being tested

in the supermarket group Système U. In the region, Pays d’Oc

wines are in the majority, with 6 Mhl, followed by 2 Mhl for vins

de pays and small producers, 1.3 Mhl for AOC wines, and the rest

made up of table wines,” says Barthès. The new system allows AOP

and IGP wines to be found side by side on supermarket shelves. If

Pays d’Oc wine producers (as recently announced) take advantage

of the European rule authorising the production of sparkling

wines from IGP varietals, AOC Crémant and AOC Blanquette de

Limoux will have to adapt to this new reality.

MARKET SEGMENTATION SYNERGYSince 2006, Pays d’Oc has divided its range of wines into threecategories: “Seduction” is the base of the pyramid, with high-yieldtechnology-intensive wines produced in large volumes (3 Mhl)and sold for 2-3 euros in supermarkets; “Style”, a category aimedat the trendy bar and restaurant sector as well as retailers,

THE WINES LABELLED LA CLAPE WILL BE THE TOP OF THE RANGE

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LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON WAS LONG A BULK WINEGROWING REGION COMPOSED MAINLY OF HIGH-YIELD VINEYARDS

produced in large volumes (3 Mhl) and offering a range of originalbi-varietal wines sold for 3-8 euros; and lastly, “Collection”, thehigh-end category, from 8 euros a bottle, produced in smaller volumes(500,000 hl) and excluded from supermarkets in France.

As for the appellations, a year ago, CIVL started the major task oforganising the region’s AOCs into a three-level hierarchy. “SinceChristian Jeanjean took office two years ago, creating qualitycategories has been one of CIVL’s priorities. For years now,Languedoc has included some quality winemakers. Only ten yearsago, there were about 20. Today, the quality is such that the industryhere demands a hierarchy that corresponds to the different categoriesof wine produced. Bordeaux did this 150 years ago,” commentsJérôme Villaret, the CIVL’s chief representative.

This project will have a big impact on Languedoc wine productionover the next ten years. The appellations have been invited to sign acharter to reach the required quality level over the next two years.The pyramid structure consists of the AOC Languedoc appellationat the base, including everyday wines and brands produced inhigh volumes selling for 3-4 euros per bottle. In this marketsegment, strong brands such as Castel’s Roche Mazet, Jeanjean’sLa Croix Jeannel and Val d’Orbieu’s Mythique Languedoc, among




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CORBIÈRES A.C. Château de Durfort 2009Concentrated garnet-red. Heady nose ofwild berries (strawberry, redcurrant),blackcurrant with refined toasted vanillaoak in the background. A refined, elegantstyle melding focused, crunchy fruitwith delicate melted oak. A successfuleffort.

89/100

CORBIÈRES A.C. Domaine Sainte CroixLe Fournas 2009Deep, dark purple. Deliciousnose of fresh forest fruits(blackcurrant, redcurrant…) with a heady background.Supple, velvety palate with soft mouthfeel and expressive,easy-drinking fruit. A charming young Corbières thatmakes an ideal introduction to the appellation.

86/100

ORGANIC

WINE


REGION

AOP/IGP: THE DIFFERENCES

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AOPRegulation European label made compulsory

by Council Regulation (CE) no. 510/2006 of 20/03/2006

Objective To promote and protect the specific characteristics resulting from the terroir of the labelled product

Place Must refer to a geographic nameQuality The quality is related exclusively to

the product’s geographic origin

Origin The wine must be produced in the appellation and be made exclusivelyfrom grapes from its vineyards

Grape varieties The wine must be made exclusively from Vitis vinifera grapes

IGPEuropean label made compulsory by Council Regulation (CE) no. 510/2006 of 20/03/2006To protect geographic names and to designatethe origin of a food product that draws some of itsspecific characteristics from its place of originRefers to a geographic regionThe quality can arise from geographic origin or reputation or other specific characteristicsattributable to the product’s originProduction outside of the region of origin is authorised

The wine can be made from Vitis viniferagrapes or hybrids of Vitis species

WHAT FUTURE FOR VINS DE PAYS?Since 1 August 2009, Vins de Pays have become IGP, although so

far this change has not been very apparent. Yet this labelling

modification will have consequences for 150 Vins de Pays in

France. “The notion of Vins de Pays has disappeared, but the transition

to IGP has not been simple for winemakers. Although the Vins de

Pays label is less and less common, we’re now in the second year

of transition and the new categorisation has not come completely

into effect in France. Today, the label includes the name of the

winery, the grape variety or blend, and the vintage, as well as the

designation Pays d’Oc and IGP. However, the designation Vin de

Pays is still recognised at the European level, so it can appear on

the label as long as the IGP logo is placed in a noticeable position,”

clarifies Florence Barthès.

others, should sell 2 million bottles in supermarkets this year. Themiddle of the pyramid is the category Grands Vins du Languedoc,selling for 3.50-10 euros. The top of the pyramid, the Grands Crus,is reserved for niche wines over 10 euros.

Ten appellations have already committed to the process. “La Clape’s

wine producers’ organisation has signed the charter. This area

includes AOC La Clape wines ranging from 3 euros to 50 euros,

which confuses consumers. The new hierarchy will mean that

generic wines at 3 euros will be labelled AOC Languedoc, while

wines labelled La Clape will be the top of the range,” explains

Villaret. “Meanwhile, the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine

(INAO) is working to classify specific characteristics of different

terroirs in order to tackle the concept of vintage in a nationally

consistent way. Winemakers in Pic Saint-Loup, La Clape and

Boutenac (Corbières) have been working to ensure quality for some

15 years now, whereas other terroirs have not even emerged yet.”

Christelle Zamora

NEW YORK LIFE


You’re a well known chef, and, after closingyour restaurant at 1 a.m., where do you go? Blue Ribbon, of course.

www.blueribbonrestaurants.com

Their philosophy: a casual, delicious food and drink restaurant

For nearly 20 years, Blue Ribbon restaurants

have been destinations for New York

chefs, waiters, bartenders and the people

who love them, offering solid, often

unexpectedly good dishes, drinks, raw

seafood platters, whatever they want, into

the wee hours of the night.

The philosophy of owners (and brothers)

Eric and Bruce Bromberg at their first

restaurant Blue Ribbon Brasserie (1992),

was simple from the start: offer a casual,

but also “proper,” white table-cloth

ambiance serving simple, delicious food

and drink to New York’s bon vivants,

gastronomes, locals and visitors alike.

Opened from 4pm to 4am, no reservations

are taken, and there is no door policy.

Anyone who finds a space is welcome. As

grand in presentation as a classic Parisian

brasserie, yet intimate in space like a

neighborhood bistro, and as unpreten-

tious as a New York diner, Blue Ribbon

Brasserie offers impressive plateaux des

fruits de mers (raw seafood platters) along

with fried chicken, vegetable kebabs,

cheeseburger, tofu ravioli, paella and

pigeon, plus skate and sweetbreads, sea

bass and roast duck club sandwiches. Its

busiest time comes after midnight, when

chefs at other restaurants get off work and

simply want to relax. The wine list is

superb. In addition to oyster-perfect

classics like Sancerre and Chablis, one

will find more esoteric wines such Kalin

Cellars Semillon Sonoma, Loire Valley

Pineu d’Aunis, Italian, Spanish and

German wines. There is also a list of both

classic and original cocktails.

Three years later, the brothers opened

Blue Ribbon Sushi (1995), which for a

time was regarded as one of New York’s

best sushi bars (it is still excellent).

Unlike the rarified air of New York’s other

elite sushi restaurants, there is an almost

democratic feel to Blue Ribbon. Once

again, classics are offered, but also

innovations, too, with Raw Live Orange

Clam (Aoyagi) Sautéed with Asparagus

and Black Pepper sharing a menu with

Yellow Tail Tuna (Hamachi) Sashimi and

Freshwater Eel (Unagi) Sushi. Befitting

any fine sushi restaurant, there is an

Jamal Rayyis

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Blue Ribbon Sushi

Downing Street Bar

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NEW YORK LIFE

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impressive Sake list, one made accessible

by flavour profiles provided on the menu.

Yaegaki, “Mu,” Daiginjo is described as

“Fleshy, ripe green apples,” whereas

Dassai, Ginjo, Nigori Zake (Roughly

Filtered) offers “melon, [with a] hint of

almonds.” There is also a surprisingly

thoughtful wine list, too, including

Chateau De Chamboureau Cuvée d’Avant

Savennières, Ameztoi Txakoli, Larmandier-

Bernier, Blanc De Blancs, 1er Cru

Champagne, and some fine red wines, too.

An enthusiastic attitude regarding

conviviality, wine and drink is central to

all Blue Ribbon Restaurants, which now

number ten in total, in Manhattan,

Brooklyn, and from last year, Las Vegas.

The emphasis is on small production-

scale wines from independent vignerons,

be they from France, the United States,

Spain, Australia or Germany and so on,

and prices can be surprisingly good. At a

recent visit to Blue Ribbon Bakery,

Domaine Gauby’s Vieilles Vignes Rouge

was priced $60, a bargain considering it

costs $40-$50 in shops.

Blue Ribbon’s attention to wine is most

apparent at the miniscule Blue Ribbon

Downing Street Bar, which opened on a

narrow West Village street in 2007.

Twenty-one wines are poured by the glass,

of which six are sparklers as varied as

Domaine Champlou Vouvray Petillant,

Trabanco Sidra from Asturias, Spain,

Ca’dei Mandori Brachetto Rosato Brut

from Piedmont, and, of course

Champagne.

Themed flights of wines, such as Sherry,

Sake, Greek Whites, Crozes-Hermitage

and California Zinfandel are regularly

featured, offering opportunities to taste

all wines in a flight, or to enjoy a whole

glass or bottle. More than 300 wines are

offered by the bottle, as well as range of

artisanal spirits and innovative cocktails. The

food from the simple kitchen is good, too.

The idea of serving a range of top quality

dishes that can surely satisfy the tastes of

all might not be original to Blue Ribbon.

Indeed, it harks back to the classic days of

Parisian brasseries, which offered regular

people a wide range of options at all

hours of the day. But, as brasseries have

become “classics,” with codified menus

(huitres, choucroutte, magret de canard,

entrecote de boeuf, etc), it’s refreshing that

the Bromberg brothers have reinvented

the genre, making it their own.

BLUE RIBBONRESTAURANTS

www.blueribbonrestaurants.com

Blue Ribbon Brasserie97 Sullivan St, New York Tel. +1 212 274 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun, 4am-4pm

Blue Ribbon Brooklyn280 5th Ave, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 840 0404 Hours: Mon-Thur, 5pm-12am; Fri, 5pm-2am; Sat 4pm-2am; Sun 4pm-12am

Blue Ribbon Sushi119 Sullivan St, New York Tel. +1 212 343 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun, 12pm-2am

Blue Ribbon Sushi Brooklyn278 5th Ave, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 840 0408 Hours: Mon-Fri, 5pm-12am; Sat-Sun, 4pm-12am

Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill308 W. 58th St, New YorkTel. +1 212 397 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun 7am-10.30am; Mon-Sat, 12pm-2am; Sun, 12pm-12am

Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill LasVegas3708 Las Vegas Blvd South, Las Vegas Tel. +1 702 736 0808 Hours: Sun-Thur, 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat, 5pm - 2amBlue Ribbon Bakery

35 Downing St, New York Tel. +1 212 337 0404 Hours: Mon- Thu, 12pm-12am; Fri,12pm-2am; Sat, 11:30am-2am; Sun, 11:30am-12am

Blue Ribbon Market14 Bedford St, New York Tel. +1 212 647 0408 Hours: 8am-8pm

Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar34 Downing St, New York Tel +1 212 691 0404 Hours: Mon-Fri, 4pm-2am; Sat-Sun, 11am-2am

Brooklyn Bowl61 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 963 3369 Hours: Mon- Thur, 6pm-2am; Fri 6pm-4am; Sat 11am-4am; Sun 11am-2am

Downing Street Bar

Brasser ie Exter ior

TRAVEL


INDIANA IS CURRENTLY HOME TO SOME 50 WINERIES - A NUMBER THAT IS SOON SET TO DOUBLE

Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s winesHubrecht Duijker has published almost 100 books on wine over the last30 years, including The Bordeaux Atlas and Encyclopedia of Chateaux,which was awarded a prize by the Académie du Vin de Bordeaux. Herecently toured Indiana in the United States to take an in-depth look atthis little-known but flourishing regional wine industry.

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IN RECENT YEARS, THE FRUITY ANDFLORAL TRAMINETTE HAS BECOMETHE UNOFFICIAL STATE WINE

THE INDIANA STATE MUSEUM ININDIANAPOLIS HAS A ROOM DEDICATED TO LIMESTONE

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Chardonnay, moving on to a spicy Primitivo, a complex

Bordeaux-blend Family Reserve and a soft and sweet Late

Harvest Riesling. We also tried the world’s first sugar-free sweet

wine, Slender wines, designed with special sweeteners for

diabetics, as well as a deep red Teroldego. Charles Thomas says

of his winemaking, ”My style is French. I refuse to make my

wines just to appeal to Robert Parker.”

SWEET WINE FROM SEVERE CONDITIONSChateau Thomas does not have its own vineyard. It buys 15,000

cases of grapes exclusively from other states - mostly from

An immaculately set table complete with printed menus

awaits a six-course meal prepared by a talented chef.

Are we visiting a prestigious chateau in Bordeaux?

No - we are receiving a royal welcome at the Chateau Thomas

Winery in Indiana. Created in 1997, the winery is located in the

neighbourhood of Plainfield, not far from the state capital of

Indianapolis. The location, says owner Dr Charles Thomas, a

former obstetrician and well-known collector of Bordeaux

(particularly the 1928 vintage), was specifically chosen to attract

the widest possible clientele: ”Some 100,000 cars pass by here

each day.”

Accompanying the delicious and distinctive Midwestern cuisine

of Indiana maize bisque, carpaccio of Wagyu beef, and bison

stew with mushroom risotto, we sampled a small selection of

Thomas’s 50 different varieties of wines. ”My husband works

more hours now than when he delivered babies,” smiles our

hostess. ”Just less during the night!’ Each of the wines is of

irreproachable quality and pairs excellently with the food: from

a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc to a rich, not excessively woody

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Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s wines


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California and Washington. ”I don’t have the ambition to become

a winegrower,” Thomas explains. ”The soil in Indiana is too rich,

and the climate too harsh. I buy my grapes, which arrive in

perfect condition in refrigerated trucks.” Most of the other wineries

in the region, which number about 50, operate in the same way.

This explains why this state of 93,720 square kilometres, bordered

to the north by the immense Lake Michigan, counts only 170

hectares of vineyards. Our visit in the summer of 2010 illustrated

why the climate makes winegrowing virtually impossible.

Temperatures stayed above 30°C without falling at night, and

short but violent thunderstorms brought heavy rains. In spring,

frosts can be devastating.

JEFF DURM OF BUCK CREEK WINERY BUYS HALF OF HIS GRAPES FROM WINEGROWERS IN INDIANA AND, LIKE MANY OTHER WINEMAKERS IN THE

STATE, ALSO USES GRAPES FROM ELSEWHERE

”It’s a challenge to grow wine here,” says Jeanette Merritt, somewhat

understating the case. She works for the Indiana Wine Grape

Council, which promotes winegrowing in the region and gives

technical advice. Top among their recommendations to new

winegrowers is to install a drainage system. ”Draining is the biggest

problem,” she says. ”Precipitation can reach 10 centimetres a day.”

She also advises planting tolerant, hardy hybrid varieties. ”Noble”

varieties, originating from Vitis vinifera vines, do not prosper in

Indiana. However, hybrids such as Chardonel (a cross between

Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc), Chambourcin, Norton and especially

Traminette do better. This last variety was developed at Cornell

University from crossing Gewürztraminer with a numbered varietal.


TRAVEL

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Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s wines


This grape produces a semisweet, fruity, somewhat spicy white

wine that in recent years has become a signature wine of the state.

Almost half of the winegrowers in Indiana now cultivate

Traminette. Despite the challenges, wineries are increasingly

fashionable: 10 new wineries will open in the region this year,

and almost 40 others are planned.

CAPITAL WINESAt the limits of downtown Indianapolis, with its excellent

museums and world-famous racetracks (the Indianapolis Motor

Speedway and the O’Reilly Raceway Park), Mark and

Meredith Easley produce wines from grapes grown in the

state. Some are cultivated in their own Ohio River vineyard,

which dates from 1971 and was one of the first to be planted

after the Prohibition era in the early 20th century. Even the

Easley Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the region.

The 2009 vintage, with 14 per cent Chambourcin, was one of

the best wines we discovered in Indiana, with good structure

and a taste of fresh berries, mint and a hint of wood.

INDIANA COMPRISES 55 WINERIES WHICH ARE EVENLY DISTRIBUTED ACROSS THE STATE


TRAVEL

MORE INFORMATION

To find out more about winegrowing and wineries inIndiana, the site www.indianawines.org has a lot of usefulinformation. Many winemakers also have their own web-sites. For travel information, visit www.visitindiana.com.The state’s forests are best to visit in autumn, when theleaves change colour.

WHERE TO STAYwww.graygooseinn.com

In Chesterton

www.frenchlick.com/hotels/westBaden/A fantastic resort hotel in West Baden Springs

DR CHARLES THOMAS, THE OWNEROF THE CHATEAU THOMAS WINERY

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Buck Creek Winery, just 20 minutes from the centre of

Indianapolis, grows a quarter of its own grapes in a vineyard of

almost 2 hectares. Another 25 per cent of its grapes come from

other vineyards in Indiana, with the rest delivered mainly from

the state of New York. To learn about winemaking, owner Jeff

Durm, a former policeman, offered to work for free at the

Chateau Thomas Winery when he started out. To fight against

spring frosts, he lit campfires in the vineyards and kept them burning

all night. Buck Creek wines, like the others in the state, are sweet:

one is even made of rhubarb.

Just north of Madison, Indiana, we met Steve Palmer, a sort of

wine pioneer. He has a 5.6-hectare vineyard planted with the

regionally rare Pinot Gris and the Austrian Grüner Veltliner. He

says, ”My son wants me to plant Zweigelt, too.” His Edelzwicker

wine, a blend of the hybrid grapes Cayuga, Vidal and Vignoles,

is the most interesting, with a mild taste of green fruit and

fresh citrus.

One of the state’s oldest and largest wineries is found deep in

Southern Indiana - the Huber Winery. It delivers grapes to other

producers, as well as making a range of its own wines. Their Stella

di Luca dry rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon is very pleasant,

with aromas of berry and herbs. One of their best wines is the

HSR Heritage, an elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and

Cabernet Franc barrel-aged for 20 months. We enjoyed a 2006

HSR Heritage with a perfectly cooked New York strip steak at the

1875 Steakhouse in the French Lick Springs Hotel and reflected

on our luck to have discovered the wines of the Midwest.

Text and photography: Hubrecht Duijkerwww.hubrechtduijker.com


FAMILY BUSINESS

To see all the Georges Duboeuf posters that appear all over the United States in late November excitedlyproclaiming Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé!, one might be forgiven for thinking this is another corporatemarketing campaign. One might think the same when seeing the cute advertisements of a beautiful youngcouple drinking Yellow Tail Shiraz in Italy. While one would be correct to surmise the marketing and advertisingaspects of Georges Duboeuf and Yellow Tail, one would miss an essential component in their development:that these are family campaigns brought together by one family man, William Deutsch.

www.wjdeutsch.com

Bill Deutsch, founder andChairman of WJ Deutsch, neverfails to mention the importance

of family, not just for his own company,but also the people he does business with.“It’s just better to work with families. We canunderstand one another. Their problemsbecome our problems, our problemsbecome their problems, things just workbetter.”

THE CORPORATE LIFEDeutsch came to the wine business fromthe corporate side. In 1961, he startedworking for Goldseal Vineyards in NewYork’s Finger Lake regions, which becamean important importer of French wines tothe US. After 14 years, Deutsch sensed the parent company AustinNichols (of Wild Turkey Bourbon fame) wasn’t interested in the winebusiness. He left for Somerset Wine Company in 1975 and stayedthere for five years, representing primarily the wines of Alexis Lichine.During this time Deutsch met Georges Duboeuf from Beaujolais andJean Sauvion from the Loire Valley. In 1980, it became apparent thatSomerset’s parent company Norton Simon didn’t want to remain inthe wine business, either. With twenty years of wine industry inexperience Deutsch decided to go on his own, figuring that if hecould spend time selling wine rather than planning monthly corporatemeetings, he might be able to carve out a niche for himself in theUnited States. Regarding corporations, which are prone to changingtheir focus, as unreliable, he decided to work only with family producers.“It seems that big [corporate] companies aren’t long-term playersin the wine business. Family companies, are….their problemsbecome our problems…”

THE FAMILY LIFEUsing his family’s laundry room inChappaqua, New York as his office,Deutsch started WJ Deutsch in 1981. Hehad one employee: himself. Initially, hestarted with wines he represented atSomerset, Alexis Lichine, Jean Sauvion, etc,and started building his business.

DUBOEUF EST ARRIVÉIn 1982, he was approached by GeorgesDuboeuf, who he had met a few yearsearlier. Duboeuf knew that Deutsch was astart up business, but since Duboeuf wasjust entering the US market himself, thepartnership might be symbiotic. Initially,Deutsch was only to handle the New YorkTri-State are (New York, New Jersey,

Connecticut), but within six months, he was given the whole EastCoast. It wouldn’t be until 2000 that Deutsch acquired the nationalrights to George Duboeuf, but by 1989, the brand became the biggestselling French wine in the US. Other early opportunities came, basedon personal relations and similar business sensibilities: Marcel Guigalasked Deutsch to represent J. Vidal-Fleury in 1982. In the same year,André Lurton approached Deutsch about representing ChateauBonnet from Entre-Deux-Mers. A relationship with Italy’s Pozzifamily in 1984 brought Villa Pozzi wines to the US, the mostimportant being their Pinot Grigio labeled “La Francesca,” in honourof Bill Deutsch’s wife Frances. Other opportunities came, including one from director Francis FordCoppola, who was introduced to Deutsch by Sam and Michael Aaron ofNew York’s famous wine shop Sherry-Lehmann (another familybusiness). Coppola engaged Deutsch to represent his new wineRubicon, as well as subsequent other wines. He did so from 1985 to 1999.

Family Man: Bill Deutsch, WJ Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.

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Peter & Bi l l Deutsch


FAMILY BUSINESS

THE FAMILY GROWSStarting in 1985, Deutsch’s sons Stephen, now 51, and Peter, now 49,entered the business. A few years later, his daughter Susan (now 45)did, too. Their first jobs? Hitting the street, selling wine. Eventually,Stephen left the company; today, he works in the wine industry in theUS South. Susan, who was a dynamic sales and marketing force forthe company, has stepped back to raise her two children. Peterbecame Bill Deutsch’s right hand, and has since become presidentand CEO of the company, a symbol of his father’s trust and hisproven business acumen.

HERE COME THE AUSSIESThere is no better illustration of this acumen than the success ofYellow Tail. By 1997, the Deutsches, encouraged by Peter, searched foran Australian brand. Bill contacted the Australian Wine Commissionin search of introductions, and was put in touch with John Casella,the owner of a modest Australian family winery in Australia. Sensinga certain simpatico, two smallish family wine companies, an impor-ter and a producer, they concluded a long-term deal. Things didn’t gosmoothly at first. The initial plan was to introduce a wine called“Carramar Estate.” In 1999, 25,000 cases of Carramar wine arrived inthe US with faulty corks and all the wines were recalled back toAustralia. Horrified, John Casella took responsibility for the problemand absorbed all the loses. He also offered Deutsch the opportunityto end their relationship. “I told him, no way,” says Deutsch. “He wasan honest man who took complete responsibility for a mistake.That’s the sort of person we like to work with.” A year later, Casella re-evaluated his product and proposed a new strategy with a new brand:Yellow Tail. The wine would be simple, just two varieties, Chardonnayand Shiraz, low in price, around $6, and carried a catchy label: a car-toon kangaroo (actually, a wallaby). Initially, Bill was sceptical, butPeter was enthusiastic, imagining that it would have immediateconsumer appeal. No-one, neither Casella or either of the Deutsches,had any idea how much appeal. Estimates that they might sell 25,000cases by the end of 2000 were off by almost ten-fold. They sold225,000 cases, with retailers unable to keep it on the shelf. The

growth has continued unabated. Today, the brand sells 8 millioncases in the US (12 million worldwide), now divided across othervarieties, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, differentblends, and a sparkling wine. “It was completely unexpected,” saysDeutsch.The Casella and Deutsch families are close. Of course, they have eachmade the other rich, but it is touching to see tears of pride well-up inBill Deutsch’s eyes as he recalls attending the dedication of YellowTail’s new bottling plant, only to find a prominent plaque onthe building dedicated to “WJ Deutsch & Family For Making It AllPossible.”

THE LEGACYThe honours have continued for Deutsch. In 1986, he was give theOrdre du Mérite Agricole, and was elevated to a higher level of awardin 1992. He was Market Watch Industry Leader of the Year, 2006, and,soon, he will receive perhaps the grandest honour of all possible inthe wine world, to knighted as a Chévalier de la Légion d’Honneur bythe President of the French Republic in 2011.Of course, not everything has been a success. Some relationshipsdidn’t pan out, notably a misinformed decision to partner with thenow defunct California winery Renwood. “We discovered the man wepartnered with was dishonest. So, although we invested $1 million,we pulled out.” A failed relationship over distribution of Pommeryafter the brand was purchased by Vranken has been in litigation for afew years. As of this interview, there was signs that a settlement wascoming, and, that they might be doing business again. “A handshakegave me hope, but we’ll see.” Deutsch, who recovered from a serious automobile accident at theend of 2010, is near retirement, but his legacy has extended to hisfamily. In the family business since 1985, his son Peter has cultivatedthe same relations as his father. The company continues to expand. Itnow represents 26 different family wineries from nine countries, and,it has now created a separate spirits division handling three brands.Starting with one employee, the company now has 185, and there isno end in sight. “So long as family comes first, everything will befine,” says Deutsch.

Jamal Rayyis

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“LE BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU EST ARRIVÉ!”

BRANDS REPRESENTED BY WJ DEUTSCH & SONS, LTD. Australia - [ yellow tail ], [ yellow tail ] Bubbles, [ yellow tail ] ReserveArgentina - Ruta 22California - Kunde Family Estate, Girard, Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Windsor Sonoma WineryChile - Llai LlaiFrance - Andre Lurton, Georges Duboeuf, HobNob, Patch Block, Pierre Sparr, Sauvion, Vidal-FleuryItaly - Barone Fini, Lionello Marchesi, Villa PozziNew Zealand - The CrossingsPortugal - Quinta do Vale MeaoSpain - Cruz de Alba, Mar de Frades, Ramon Bilbao, Volteo

IItaly is one of the world’s foremost andoldest producers of wine. Like Portugal, Italy

grows among the largest number of grape

varieties, some of which have been neglected elsewhere.

Italian vineyards cover 800,000 hectares and can be

found everywhere in the country, including the

islands. There are more than 400 different grape

varieties grown on the Italian peninsula, apart from

the international varieties of Chardonnay, Cabernet,

Pinot Noir and Merlot. In Italy and other

Mediterranean countries, local grapes are referred to as

”native” varieties, so let’s take a look at Italy’s natives.

In the days of ancient Greece (800-146 BCE), the

Greeks called Italy Oenotria, which means ”the

land of wines.” Winegrowing and winemaking is a

tradition that dates back thousands of years and is

found across the country; wine has been an integral

part of daily life in Italy for millennia. Until the end

of the Second World War, most Italian wines, apart



We take a look at the wealth of local grape varities to be foundin this ancient Mediterranean wine-producing country.

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Italy’s indigenous grape varieties

Delphine

Veissière



from those from Tuscany and Piedmont, were sold mainly in bulk.

Imported wines were long considered primarily for the elite.

Understanding Italian wines and their diversity involves delving

into the country’s history of regional cultivation and winemaking.

Although Italian wines made from international varieties can

be interesting, they don’t reflect the terroir in the same way,

and they lack a strong regional oenological ”fingerprint”. Take

the Super Tuscans, made from a ”Bordeaux” blend of Cabernet

Sauvignon and Merlot - although they are excellent examples

of territorial expression, equal to certain Grand Cru Classé

French wines, they don’t have the distinctive style of Tuscan

wines made from local varieties.

There are around 5,000 grape varieties currently cultivated

around the world, adding up to some 40,000 different names

in all their translations. In Italy, local varieties have always

been deeply embedded in the local agrarian system. The cultivation

of different grape varieties remains connected to the environment

and the local agricultural customs, as well as to local drinking

habits and needs. Does that mean that certain varieties introduced

to a region more than 50 years ago are ”local” varieties? For

example, in Lazio, Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced by

Venetian families during Mussolini’s regime in the framework

of a programme to reclaim the region’s swamps.

When looking at the characteristics of local grape varieties, it

is important to make certain distinctions. ”Native” varieties

come from wild grapes that have been ”domesticated” (such

as Lambrusco Viadanese and Groppello Ruberti), as opposed

to ancient or modern varieties, the most recent of which are

essentially Cabernets, Pinots and Chardonnay.

From north to south, each Italian winegrowing region (there

are 21, including more than 360 DOC and DOCG appellations)

is identified with a predominant local variety that is a true

expression of the terroir. These include Sangiovese, a red grape

native to Tuscany and the most cultivated variety in Italy

(86,000 hectares), followed by the white grape Catarratto in

Sicily, Tuscan Trebbiano in central Italy, Barbera in Piedmont

(a qualitatively inferior variety compared to Nebbiolo),

Negroamaro in Puglia, the red varieties of central and southern

Italy, Montepulciano, Trebbiano Romagnolo and Primitivo in

the south, as well as the white grape Malvasia. The cultivation

of international varieties has followed trends: Pinots in the

1970s, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet in the

1980s, and Syrah in the 1990s. Central Italy in particular,

which previously mainly grew relatively mediocre Sangiovese

and Trebbiano, has invested heavily in planting international

varieties. These are potentially profitable due to the large

volumes produced, but costly. This has unfortunately led

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IN ITALY, LOCAL VARIETIES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN DEEPLY EMBEDDED IN THE LOCAL AGRARIAN SYSTEM



ADVERTORIAL

Since 1897,Nino Negri,the leading

producer of Valtellina wines, has wonan impressive array of prizes. In additionto 13 years of superb wines, in 2003 itwas awarded best Italian red for its2001 vintage.

This year, it was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator

and 94 points by Parker. The 5 Stelle Nino Negri has

long been synonymous with the highest quality of

the nebbiolo variety in Valtellina and is one of the top 30

wines to represent Italian viticulture on the world stage. Wine Spectator also gave 90 points to the Inferno Mazèr 2001.Adjudicated a Three Glass champion by the Gambero Rossoguide for three years in a row, the traditional Sfursat has earneda place in the ranks of major prize winners. It is testimony to thefact the quality of the house of Nino Negri is not just limited toits selections but starts with its basic lines. Over the last fewyears, the estate has collected a series of 5 bunch trophies fromthe AIS for its world-famous 5 stelle and its Vigneto Fracia. In2008, Casimiro Maule (above) was voted best oenologist in Italy.

The production of great wines requires great commitment andcontinuous investment. Nino Negri is the proud holder of twocertifications: ISO 9000 and ISO 14000. The first of thesemonitors the way the estate is managed. Its objective is toensure that the regulations governing all the vinificationprocesses are in place to enhance the final product for the consumer.The second certification is environmental and ensures that theestate respects its natural surroundings and abides by strict reg-ulations designed to limit any pollution not only in the cellar’sproduction processes but also on the farm. The aim is toimprove the quality of the wines but above all the quality ofthe working environment and the territory.

Modern techniques combined with absolute respect for traditionallow us to obtain the very best from our nebbiolo grapes, resultingin wines that are extremely pleasing, elegant and excellent inquality. Between 1997 and 2005 Nino Negri replanted 11 of its 34

hectares with new clonal selections of nebbiolo (chiavennasca)and new planting systems. Our wines are available in restaurantsin 23 countries, a tribute to the quality we offer.

CASIMIRO MAULE, OENOLOGIST36 growing years amount to a life of sacrifice for a man. Theyalso amount to a lifetime of invaluable experience; a life livedamong the vineyards in contact with nature, its aromas and themoods of the earth.

36 years leave their mark on the eyes, the mind, the heart andthe hands. They form a man’s character, the evolution of a wineand a territory. Here, they are the steps in the existential journey ofa gentleman, an oenologist, a dominant figure in the world ofwine: Casimiro Maule.

Today Maule runs and manages Nino Negri. He headed theConsortium for the Protection of Valtellina Wines for 13 years,where he changed the way wine is made the valley. All creditgoes to Maule for the success of Valtellina wines in Italy andoverseas and for the Valley’s DOCG designation.His wines, his Sforzato 5 Stelle, have achieved cult status,recognised and commended worldwide.

“..to maintain these standards … we must study and know thenebbiolo variety in Valtellina inside out, starting with the soilin which it grows … in the past, we would allow the earth torest for a certain time, now … we work these terrains continuously.The soil … needs turning and nourishing. We must start toplan targeted and programmed interventions that will ensurethe earth is constantly nourished.” �

Nino Negri estate

NINO NEGRI

Cantina: Via Ghibellini, 3 - 23030- Chiuro (Sondrio)Tel. +39 0342 485211 Fax +39 0342 482235

www.ninonegri.it



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CASIMIRO MAULE, NINO NEGRI’SOENOLOGIST FOR THE PAST 40 YEARS

winegrowers to neglect local but less well-known varieties

with good yields such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Colorino

and the white grape Grechetto.

Three regions dominate national wine production: Veneto,

Tuscany and Piedmont. Tuscany, with 3 million hectolitres of

wine per year, produces fine wines mainly from Sangiovese,

which is sometimes blended with Canaiolo and Colorino for

colour. Piedmont, the home of Nebbiolo, also produces

well-known wines. However, Veneto (particularly Verona and

Vicenza) is Italy’s top producer of grapes and wine, making up

around 20% of total national production. The main grapes in

this region are local varieties, such as Corvina (the majority),

Molinara and Rondinella, which are blended in Veneto’s most

famous wine, Amarone. Nonetheless, 60% of the wines produced

in Veneto are Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) table wines,

as opposed to 40% from DOC or DOCG appellations.

But it would be misleading to suggest that Italian wine can be

summed up by this trio of regions. As the country’s many local

varieties attest, there are a wealth of small appellations to be

discovered, where auteurs delight wine lovers with rare vintages

characteristic of the terroir. Some true oenological treasures

are produced by ‘undiscovered’ estates, like those, for example,

near the Swiss-Italian border in the region of Valtellina, which

were founded by wealthy Swiss families originally from

Grison. Here, the Piedmont variety Nebbiolo is king, and it

receives the careful attention of growers who cultivate it on steep

mountain terraces.

VALTELLINA WINESVineyards appeared in Valtellina, located in northern Italy in

the mountainous area of Lombardy, from the 9th century.

Unusually, they are planted at 800 - 1300 metres altitude and

face south, southeast and southwest. There is little information

about the grape varieties that were cultivated here before the

end of the 16th century. That period brought the emergence of

tenant farming contracts, in which we can begin to identify

certain white and red grape varieties such as Chiavennasca,

Pignola, Rossola Dura, Berzemina or Bressana. The development

in the quality and quantity of Valtellina wines was directly linked

to the development of its sales to the neighbouring Swiss canton

of Grison. Today Valtellina (which includes appellations such

as DOC Valtellina or the prestigious DOCG Sfursat) produces

fine red wines from Nebbiolo grapes (locally still

called Chiavennasca), a variety originally from Piedmont

(more specifically the hilly area of Langhe) and used in the

Crisscrossing Valtellina, one cannot help but be awed by the

amazing sight of vineyards cultivated on terraces dug into

dolomite rock at altitudes of 260 - 900 metres. This has been

described as ”extreme” viticulture, the harvests carried out

exclusively by hand on each small terrace, and the grapes

transported to the wineries by helicopter. The famous

Sforzato, or sfursat in the local dialect, is one of the rare

wines, along with Veneto’s Amarone, to be made from dried

grapes. The grapes are harvested a bit earlier for this wine in

order to ensure they are in good condition. They are then placed

in small wooden crates with a capacity of 4-5 kg and dried in

naturally ventilated rooms until December 10th of the harvest

year. This process of dehydration leads to a relatively high

concentration of sugar in the wine, while preserving the substances

that supply its aromas and colour. The resulting wine is generally

powerful, with olfactory and taste complexity, and pairs well

with rich foods or desserts.

The Nino Negri winery was the first to open its doors in

Valtellina in 1897, and itself bears witness to the development

of winemaking in region. Casimiro Maule, the estate’s oenologist

for the past 40 years, has a very territorial approach to wine.

famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Nebbiolo offers a good

balance of alcohol and acidity, which, along with its bouquet

and delicate yet characteristic taste, often results in wines with

great ageing potential. In Valtellina, Nebbiolo makes up 90%

of the vines; here the grape is more authentic and older than

its Piedmont cousin because it has been less subjected to cloning,

and as a result has undergone less transformation.

Yet not all wines made from Nebbiolo are unconditionally

exceptional. For a successful vintage, it is crucial that the

grapes ripen gradually, ideally during hot days and cool

nights. They contain limited amounts of anthocyanins, the

majority of which are ”cianinas”, which tend to cause insoluble

precipitation during the first hours of fermentation. Nebbiolo

often has an orangey colour; in order to stabilise it, it is

necessary to promote the polymerisation of the tannins with

the anthocyanins at a fermentation temperature near 35°C

and frequently aerate the wine using remontage (there are certain

exceptions, for example, at the Nino Negri winery). The resulting

wines are obviously different from those of the past, and generally

have a shorter maturing time. On the other hand, they are very

successful on the international market.

Italy’s indigenous grape varieties


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NINO NEGRI SEEKS OUT THE BEST EXPRESSION OF NEBBIOLO, THE LOCAL VARIETY PAR EXCELLENCE

IN NINO NEGRI WINES, NEBBIOLO IS NOTBLENDED WITH OTHER VARIETIES

As opposed to ”modern” wineries such as Fay or Mamete

Prevostini, Nino Negri seeks out the best expression of Nebbiolo,

the local variety par excellence. The wines produced here are

often distinguished by their origin from one of the four regional

DOC and DOCG appellations (Sassella, Grumello, Valgella and

Inferno) and are a reflection of the vine and the exposition of

the vineyard. This is enhanced further in Nino Negri wines, as

Nebbiolo is not blended with other varieties and remontage is

avoided by the use of tanks equipped with oxygenating systems.

The maceration of the grapes is brief; the maturation in barrels

is rapid and is carried out in new French oak barrels made

from aged wood that has been exposed to the open air for at

least 30 months, so the wood flavour is less invasive. This

retains the natural characteristics of the Nebbiolo grape, ensuring

that the fruit is not dominated by the oak. The original bite of

this grape variety offers a sensation on the palate that is both

powerful and smooth. The wines are not filtered and do not

undergo cold stabilisation. Apart from 2009 Ca’ Brione, a blend

of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Nino Negri wines are

monovarietal reds, made exclusively from Nebbiolo.

In our tasting at the Nino Negri winery, the 2005 and 2007

vintages came out best, particularly for the middle-range

wines: for example, 2007 Vigneto Fracia and 2007 Inferno

Valtellina Superiore. In the top range, we liked 2005 Riserva

Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2007 and 1999 Sassorosso Valtellina

Superiore. We also enjoyed the excellent and very elegant 2007

Sfursat 5 Stelle - powerful, fruity and concentrated, worthy of

certain Burgundy Pinot Noirs. Apart from the presence of red

fruit (cherry) or black fruit (blackberry), whose level of ripeness

depends on the wine, the unifying threads running through

Nino Negri wines are their mineral aromas and flavours

alongside liquorice, hints of menthol and balsamic, good

concentration and powerful and smooth tannins. Added to

this in the case of Sfursat are the olfactory and taste sensations

obtained by using dried grapes, which results in a higher level

of alcohol and an impressive complexity.

The Swiss Triacca winery also produces different types and

qualities of Nebbiolo red wines, including the interesting

2005 Sfursat Valtellina Superiore and the surprising dessert

wine 2009 Moscato del Presidente, so called because it was the

favourite of the former President of Italy, Carlo Azeglio

Ciampi. It is a lightly fortified red wine made from Moscato

Rosa (which is also cultivated in the regions of Friuli and

Trentino) and has a fruity and fresh bouquet and palate, with

the scent and taste of rose. It is available in limited quantities.

By Delphine Veissière



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Officially, the Denominación de Origen (DO) of Ribera del Duero was created on21 July 1982 by an organisation of wine producers determined to promote the qualityof their wines and to apply enforceable regulatory standards. In fact, winemaking inRibera del Duero dates back to the Roman era, over 2,000 years ago, as evidencedby the recent discovery of a 66-metre mosaic of Bacchus, the god of wine, unearthedat Baños de Valdearados.

REGION


DO Ribera del Duero: A Spanish stand-out

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THE RIBERA DEL DUERO WINEGROWING REGION IS LOCATED ON A PLATEAUIN NORTHERN SPAIN ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF FROM MADRID


REGION

wines were highly regarded and were exported at the height ofthe Spanish Empire during the 17th and 18th centuries. Morerecently, in 1864, the Fondation de la Bodega Vega Siciliadefined the quality standards for the region before the officialcreation of the DO over a century later.

GEOGRAPHYThe Ribera del Duero winegrowing region is located on aplateau in northern Spain about an hour and a half fromMadrid. It spreads over four provinces in Castilla y León:Burgos, Segovia, Soria and Valladolid. Ribera means ‘riverbank’;the region borders a horizontal stretch of the Duero River for150 kilometres (93 miles) from east to west, and extends 35kilometres (22 miles) from north to south.

In the Middle Ages, new vineyards were planted atvarious monasteries, including the Cistercian monasteryof Valbuena de Duero (the first to arrive in the region in

the 12th century), when the Benedictines of Cluny inBurgundy spurred a revival in the production of local wine.

Ribera’s underground cellars with their distinctive fireplaceswere constructed in the 13th century in the towns of theregion, where they still serve to protect wine from theextremes of the climate. Wine grew to become an importantfactor in the economic and cultural development of Ribera,facilitating trade with other regions in Spain and giving rise tothe first Spanish regulations concerning wine quality, theOrdinances of Castilla y León, in the 15th century. Ribera

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LARGEST CITIESAranda del Duero, Burgos, Peñafiel, Roa, San Esteban de Gormaz,

Segovia, Valladolid

CLIMATEThe unique climate of this region is perfectly suited to winegrowing -

particularly for red wines. Influenced by both the Mediterranean

and Continental climates, Ribera is marked by extremes. It

includes the highest average altitude in Europe for red grape

varieties and has hot summers, cold winters, a short growing season,

little rainfall and diverse types of soil.

Combined, these conditions result in the production ofexcellent wines. The short, hot summers have daily tempera-tures ranging from 10-15.5°C (50-60°F) at night to over38°C (100°F) during the day. Rapid daily temperature fluctu-ations during the growing season permit the grapes to ripenin ideal health during the day and allow balanced acidityand aromatic complexity to develop during the night. Themoderate to low level of rainfall, averaging about 40 cm (16

inches) a year, with very limited summer rainfall, also contributes

to ideal ripening conditions.

On average, the vineyards of Ribera grow at about 760-850 metres

(2,500-2,800 feet) above sea level, although some vineyards are

found above 945 metres (3,100 feet). The soil conditions are virtually

perfect for viticulture, and include a range of soil types, from the

riverbanks to the steepest slopes. The soils nearest the river are alluvial,

consisting of clay and reddish sand. As the altitude increases, alter-

nate layers of chalk, shale and limestone are a notable characteristic;

there are several exceptional vineyards on sites with chalk soils.

TEMPLE OF TEMPRANILLOThe main grape variety in Ribera is Tempranillo, which is known

locally as Tinto Fino or Tinta del País. Tempranillo is an early-ripening

variety (in Spanish, temprano means ”early”) that ideally suits the

short growing season and the extreme conditions of the region.


REGION

BODEGAS IMPERIALES IS A MAJORPLAYER IN DO RIBERA DEL DUERO

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PENAFIEL CASTLE SERVED AS A PALACE AND PRISON, BEFORE 1917. NOW OWNED BYTHE MAYOR OF PEÑAFIEL, IT IS OPEN TO VISITORS AND HOUSES A WINE MUSEUM

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This combination of power and elegance is the hallmark ofTempranillo from Ribera del Duero and has been a major contributorto its excellent international reputation.

MAIN GRAPE VARIETIESReds: Tempranillo (also known as Tinto Fino and Tinta del País) makesup 95% of all production; Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 1%;Merlot, Grenache (Garnacha Tinta) and Malbec together make upless than1%.

Whites: Albillo makes up 3% of all production.

RIBERA WINESDO Ribera del Duero implements rigorous quality controlmeasures. During the harvest, an inspector is assigned to eachbodega by the Regulating Council of DO Ribera del Duero, thebody that supervises all aspects of the winegrowing and winemakingprocesses in the DO.

The council regulates the origin of the grapes, the varieties usedand in what percentages, the growing methods of the vineyard -including the pruning technique, the density of the yield, thevinification, the level of alcohol and the labelling of the bottle.In practice, the wineries always surpass the council’s establishedstandards in their search for quality.

Widely planted and much loved in Spain, Tempranillo results in

well-balanced red wines, with good colour and acidity, and a fresh

and fruity bouquet of appealing aromas such as black plum,

cherry and liquorice.



CATEGORIES OF WINE PRODUCEDJoven, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva and Rosado

• Joven:wines that have not been matured in oak casks (joven means

”young” in Spanish). However, ”Joven Roble” and ”Joven Barrica”

are interchangeable terms that refer to wines that have been aged

for a short period of three to six months in oak barrels, and bottled

not long after being harvested. All the wines with this classification

are fruity, lively and best drunk when young.

• Crianza:wines that have been aged for two years, spending a minimum of

twelve months in oak barrels (crianza means ”aged” in Spanish).

These wines can be released after the 1st of October, two years

after being harvested. They have well-balanced tannins and a

full-bodied and smooth mouth feel.

• Reserva:wines that have been aged for three years, spending a minimum of

twelve months in oak barrels. These wines cannot be put on the market

until after the 1st of October, three years after being harvested. After

twelve months in oak barrels, Reserva wines are bottled and then

stored in the bodega’s wine cellar, producing wines that are ready

to drink as soon as they are on the market. They are elegant,

sumptuous and intense, with a long and persistent finish.

• Gran Reserva:wines of exceptional quality, aged for at least 60 months, spending a

minimum of 24 months in oak barrels, followed by a period of

bottle aging. The wines are authorised to be released after the 1st

of October, five years after being harvested. After 24 months in

oak barrels, Gran Reserva wines are bottled and then stored in the

bodega’s wine cellar. They are complex, structured and very well

balanced, with remarkable vitality.

• Rosado:or rosé wines, are fermented without the grape skins and are available

soon after harvest.

PRODUCTIONMaximum yield: 7,000 kilogrammes/hectare (3.1 tonnes/hectare)

Average yield over the last 22 years:3,600 kilogrammes/hectare (1.6 tonnes/hectare)

Vineyard area: 20,500 hectares Total wineries (2008): 249Average annual production: 70,302,378 kilogrammes of grapes

MAJOR WINERIESVega Sicilia, Dominio de Pingus, Mauro, Bodega Imperiales

(Abadia de San Quirce), Prado Rey, Aalto, Telmo Rodríguez,

Bodega Vizcarra Ramos.

Christophe ChapillonZaragoza, Spain

OUR PICKSThese wines were tasted at theFenavin Spanish Wine Fair

in Ciudad Real, 10-12 May 2011

91/100 Castillo de Mendoza Reserva (TINTO, 2005)Grape variety: TempranilloAppellation: DOCa RiojaNose of small black fruits. A firm and concentrated palate of very ripefruit; tannins are present, but the balance is good. The finish is a bit firm.

90/100 Marqués de Griñón (TINTO, 2006)Grape variety: Petit VerdotAppellation: VP Dominio de ValdepusaNose of wet soil. A sweetish palate of fruit, with a rather concentratedfinish and a hint of firmness.

90/100 Juan Gil 12 Meses (TINTO, 2009)Grape variety: MonastrellAppellation: DO JumillaPrice: 5-10 eurosClean nose of red fruit with hints of black fruit. On the palate, the fruit isslightly overripe, but retains good concentration, with firm but pleasanttannins. The finish is more powerful.

89/100 Arrayán Selección (TINTO, 2007)Grape varieties: Syrah, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet SauvignonAppellation: DO MéntridaPrice: 2-5 eurosA firm, fruity, tannic attack. The blend of varieties makes the aftertasteappealingly fruity.

88/100 Abadía Retuerta Selección Especial (TINTO, 2008)Grape varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo (Cencibel)Appellation: VT Castilla y LeónPrice: 5-10 eurosNose of red fruit, still slightly closed. On the palate, the attack is swee-tish, evolving to firmer fruit. Pleasant.

88/100 Clan Barrica 10 Meses (TINTO, 2007)Grape variety: Prieto PicudoAppellation: VT Castilla y LeónPrice: 5-10 eurosA rather firm palate of slightly overripe fruit that gives an impression ofheat. The oak is still too present; merits a wait.

88/100 L’Ame Malbec (TINTO, 2008)Grape varieties: Borba, Albillo, Albilla, Pardina, MalbecAppellation: VT CastillaPrice: 5-10 eurosNose of red fruit, still slightly closed. The palate is smooth, simple andpleasant, without a big personality. Slight aftertaste.

88/100 Uva Nocturna 6 Meses (TINTO, 2007)Grape variety: GarnachaAppellation: VT Ribera del Gállego-Cinco VillasPrice: 5-10 eurosAn oaky attack, with a firm evolution followed by fruit. However, overall,the palate is rather light and the oak flavour remains very present.


WINE AND FOOD

At the age of 10, Gilles Goujon was deeply affected by the death of his father - as a result,he rejected the world of adults. Later in life, he chose to train as a chef, a profession forwhich he revealed an unexpected talent. Not content to work side by side with some ofFrance’s best chefs, Goujon decided to go out on his own, and in 1992 created a restaurantin Fontjoncouse in Languedoc-Roussillon. Today, the rocky start of this enterprise is longforgotten, replaced by awards ranging from Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman inFrance) in 1996, his first Michelin star in 1997, a second in 2001, and the ultimate recognition,his third Michelin star, in 2010. Respect!

Gilles Goujon: collecting stars

Above all, Gilles Goujon is passionate: he loves life,

other people and, naturally, food. A chef has to enjoy

sharing, and Goujon doesn’t scrimp on singing the

praises of his team. He is very aware that awards are earned by a

team of which the chef is the captain.

Nonetheless, a chef is a chef, and Goujon is an exemplary case.

Everything must be perfectly organised - and if it isn’t, he will

say something about it. His rants in the kitchen reflect his

desire for perfection and his limitless love for French cuisine,

which for him represents the most creative style of cooking, and

equally benefits from having the most hindsight. As he asserts

without mincing his words, ”We shouldn’t have to accept criticism

from other countries. In fact, Paul Bocuse got French chefs out

of their kitchens, their restaurants, their cities and their country.

Thanks to him, cooking has become more accessible, and chefs

from France and around the world have fallen in behind him.

So it’s difficult to listen to the criticism we hear today.”

©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr




For his part, he didn’t have a foolproof plan when he came to

Fontjoncouse in 1992. He visited an auberge that he found

tempting, even if the previous establishment had just gone out

of business and some building work was required. The premises

belonged to the town hall, the rent was low and there were no

major overheads such as personnel to consider. He told himself

that things would work out. The day the restaurant opened, the local

press reported that around 12 people came for lunch. A modest start.

FROM ZERO DINERS TO THREE STARSThe following weeks and months were even less reassuring; the

restaurant was empty every evening, despite Gilles and his wife

Marie-Christine lighting it up like the château of Versailles to try

to lure in the locals. The rare customers who came through the

door were treated like kings, with Goujon eager to prove the

quality of his cuisine. It would take two years of sacrifice and

unwavering courage before the first signs of change came in

1994. Then, by participating in the French television programme

Savoir Plus in 1995, the chef established his reputation, and soon

after he obtained the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (1996),

followed by his first Michelin star (1997). Gilles Goujon found

himself back on track, and would only move forward from there,

winning a second star in 2001 and a third in 2010.

We’ll leave it to him to conclude: ”I believe that we have never

eaten so well in France as today. Many talented young chefs are

starting their own restaurants and doing exceptional work. The

Michelin Guide has understood this and is increasingly taking

note of small establishments with impressive savoir-faire. Today,

we’re seeing the incredible effect of the ”food movement”, and

our profession is among the most dynamic. There are always new

challenges to face, which leads me to believe that we have not yet

reached the apogee of culinary art, there are still so many things

to achieve. The advice I would give to young chefs is to keep the

faith, even when things get difficult, and not to give up. As for

me, I have been lucky in having a team behind me that always

believed in what I was doing and a wife who has supported me

unconditionally.”

Gilbert & GaillardSee the recipe and the wine list on pages 96 and 97

RESTAURANT GILLES GOUJON - AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS


WINE AND FOOD

RECIPE


Serve with a good white wine from Corbières: for example, Ollieux Romanis or La Voulte Gasparets

Ingredients• 8 large Palamós prawns

• 400 g crushed dried tomatoes

• 10 cl reduced tomato juice

• 100 g parmesan crumble

• 10 cl cream of shellfish

250 g HERB VINAIGRETTE:

• 5 cl lemon juice

• 100 g diced tomatoes

• 50 g chopped shallots

• 30 g diced lemon confit

• 150 g olive oil

• ½ bunch of fresh coriander

• ½ bunch of dill

• ½ bunch of chives

Mix the ingredients;

add salt and pepper

Method• Grill the prawns.• While they are cooking:

• Add a bed of crushed, warm dried tomatoes to the centre of a rectangular plate.• Sprinkle the parmesan crumble over the bed of tomatoes.• Draw a line of cream of shellfish and a line of reduced tomato juice across the

plate; place small domes of vinaigrette in each corner.• Remove the tails from the prawns and place them on the tomato crumble.• Garnish with several herb sprigs.

Note: At L’Auberge du Vieux Puits, this dish is accompanied by a tomato sorbet anda circular apple straw.

Barely cooked Palamós prawns on a bed of parmesancrumble and Marmande tomatoes, with an herbvinaigrette of olive oil and lemon confit.



RESTAURANT GILLES GOUJON

AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS

5, Av St Victor - 11360 Fontjoncouse - FranceTel. +33 (0)4 68 44 07 37 - www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr

Carrus farm egg with black truffle on a purée of mushrooms and Italian white truffles, warm briochine and cappuccino

THE WINELIST

Before becoming headsommelier at L'Aubergedu Vieux Puits, FrédéricSénéchal worked in severalprestigious Parisianrestaurants. He trained as

a sommelier at the Ledoyen in Paris, has workedwith the chef Ghislaine Arabian, and also spenttime at the restaurants Laurent and Trianon Palace,climbing the ladder with each move. He has beenat L'Auberge since March 2007.

His wine list offers an amazing journey aroundLanguedoc-Roussillon, with more good bottles inall three colours than you can taste. For devoteesof Bordeaux wines, the best are all available, aswell as the most prestigious Champagnes. And ifyou really want to go mad, a 1989 Romanée-Conti ispatiently waiting for you!

Frédéric Sénéchal


“IT'S BEEN TWO YEARS NOW THAT EVERYTHING AT AVONDALE IS IN HARMONY”

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www.avondalewine.co.za

Avondale proprietor Johnathan Grieve has a unique “bio-logical”approach to making organic wine in the Klein Drakenstein area.

With his fine arts background and a fascination for

the interaction between science and nature, 34

year-old South African Johnathan Grieve is no

ordinary wine producer. Applying a knowledge of organic and

biodynamic farming principles at Avondale, he crafts a range of

nature-friendly wines that have earned him respect, both locally

and abroad.

Growing up on a smallholding near Cape Town, Johnathan

started farming at an early age, planting and growing vegetables

that he sold to friends and family. He spent his holidays working

at the family health food business founded by his grand parents,

and developed an interest in a balanced approach to life.

He spent four years studying fine art (his sculptures and paintings

decorate the main buildings), but when his parents bought

Avondale in 1999, Johnathan jumped in and began working as

an apprentice viticulturist. He felt that the conventional farming

methods employed at the estate until that time were inadequate -

the land was simply not alive enough to encourage great

wines - and so he began experimenting with different farming

methods. This led to the development of Avondale's unique

“bio-logic” farming approach, combining organic and biodynamic

principles with modern science to put life back into the soil.

All aspects of the natural environment are taken into account,from the tiniest microbes in the soil to the position of specificstar clusters in the night sky; the entire farm is viewed as aliving system that has to be in total equilibrium to supportand produce balanced vines, grapes and wine. No chemicalsare used. Pests and diseases are addressed using natural remediessuch as ladybugs and natural bacterias, while snails are kept incheck by a squad of Peking ducks: “we want nature to do thework for us,” says Johnthan, whose estate has been certifiedorganic since 2001.

Johnathan Grieve: South Africancreator of nature-friendly wines


Johnathan Grieve: South African creator of nature-friendly wines

Avondale's motto, Terra Est Vita, means “soil is life”: itencapsulates Johnathan's view of his estate as a dynamicliving system where soil, water and energy, plants, animalsand people are all part of a complex network of relationships,interconnected and interdependent. “For the land and thebusiness to thrive, every aspect of our living system must alsothrive; in everything we do, we uphold the key principle oflife, to constantly create conditions conducive to more life,”he explains; “it's been two years now that everything atAvondale is in harmony.”

This harmony is evident: visitors are greeted by a riot of colourprovided by a stunning variety of ultra-healthy plants, shrubs,bushes and flowers grown around the attractive farm buildings.The vineyards are home to cover crops such as lupins, wildsage and clover, while 20 pairs of barn owls (important forkeeping down snakes and rodents) breed in houses madefrom old barrels, situated around the vineyard amongst theeucalyptus trees.

The estate's 100 hectares of vines are planted in one-hectareblocks, matching soil types to grape varieties, and every block

is managed individually, then vinified separately and slowly(6 - 8 months fermentation is standard) in an ultra-modern,500-ton capacity cellar built deep in a dry riverbed, where gravity-flow ensures that grapes are moved with minimum mechanicalintervention. Finally, the individual parts are brought togetherat blending stage to create Avondale's unique range of winesthat are low in sulphur (less than half the norm), but full ofvitality and energy.

To learn more about Johnathan's vision, visit his blog atwww.biologicwine.co.za

Louise Hurren

”WHEN MY FAMILY ACQUIRED AVONDALE IN 1997, WE HAD A DREAM THAT ONE DAY WE WOULD MAKE PREMIUM QUALITY WINES”

AVONDALEJOHNATHAN GRIEVE

Klein Drakenstein - Paarl - South AfricaPo Box 602 - Paarl South - 7624

Tel. +27 (0)21 863 1976 www.avondalewine.co.za

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"We are very proud to be able to reach an entirely new

audience of wine lovers to present the best of French wine-

making. The three guides will also serve as an excellent pro-

motional tool for our winemakers in an increasingly competitive market. Look

out for this world first in the autumn of 2011".

GILBERT & GAILLARDgoes global!

Don’t miss the first wine guides in English, inChinese and Japanese created by French wine experts

CHINA

JAPAN

www.gi lbertga i l lard .com

US & UK


ORGANIC NEWS

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This question in fact depends on several others: is an organic wine produced inan identical way to a non-organic wine? If so, there is no reason that there shouldbe a difference in its ability to age. Does lack of sulfites, or less sulfites, have animpact on the lifespan of a bottle of wine? If the wine is microbiologically stable,aging should not be affected. As the subject requires a detailed analysis ratherthan a simple answer, we refer to an expert in the matter, Jean Natoli.

Before we look at whether or not organic wines age well,

it is important to define what we mean by ”ageing” in

reference to wine. Some wine labels carry the message

”aged in oak”, which I always find jarring, because in my mind,

wine is not aged in barrels, but matured. Although the terms are

often used synonymously, the stage of elaboration that takes place

after fermentation and before bottling focuses on bringing out the

wine’s qualities to their best advantage. In French, the term is

élevage, which literally means ”raising” or ”bringing up”. Strictly

speaking, ”to age” is to deteriorate, whereas ”to mature” is to be in

a process of development. The idea behind élevage is to improve

the wine, not to diminish it. Given this definition, we can discuss

the various ways that winemakers mature their wines: in stainless

steel tanks, in new or old oak barrels, in bottles, with reducing

agents, using micro-oxidation, and so on. So we can see that what

”maturing” a wine actually means depends on the winemaker and

the wine they wish to make. In my opinion, this distinction seems

important.

With that said, let’s get back to the initial question, which is more

specifically about the development of organic wine once it is

bottled and purchased by the consumer. For those who have read

my previous articles, you will know that making organic wine

imposes certain constraints on the winemaker that can have a

critical impact on the outcome. If these requirements are met

when the wine is bottled - that is, it has analytical stability, a

balanced taste, the desired level of concentration and volatile

acidity, a healthy microbial state, and so on - there is no reason

that a quality organic wine should age any differently than a fine

conventional wine.

By definition, once bottled, a well-produced wine should be

protected from oxygen, its biggest enemy (apart from certain

Do organic wines age well?

Jean Natoli

THIS ORGANIC CHEVERNY HASEXCELLENT ABILITY TO AGE

CHAMPAGNE91/100 Champagne Couche Père & Fils

Brut Sensation 1995 60.00 €

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONRivesaltes A.C.

93/100 Château Rombeau Ambré - 50 cl 7.00 €Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

92/100 Domaine Virgile Joly Virgile 2005 24.00 €Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes

91/100 Domaine de Rancy Mourvèdre 2009 10.00 €

LOIRE VALLEYChinon A.C.

90/100 Domaine de Noiré Caractère 2008 10.50 €Savennières A.C.

90/100 Closel - Château des Vaults La Jalousie 2009 12.00 €

PROVENCECoteaux Varois en Provence A.C.

91/100 Domaine du Deffends Champs de la Truffière 2007 11.80 €

RHÔNE VALLEYChâteauneuf du Pape A.C.

94/100 Domaine Galévan Vintage 2009 25.00 €93/100 Clos Saint Pierre Urbi 2009 25.00 €

SOUTH-WESTCahors A.C.

93/100 Château Eugénie Haute Collection 2008 20.00 €91/100 Mas del Périé La Roque 2009 12.00 €90/100 Château Haut-Monplaisir Pur Plaisir 2007 7.00 €Cognac A.C.

95/100 Famille Estève Très Vieille Petite Fine ChampagneRéserve de la Famille 65.00 €

OUR PICKS

specific wines such as Xérès sherry, or vin jaune and vin de voile,

which are wines matured under a film of yeast). On the other

hand, a wine of lesser quality that is insufficiently

microbiologically stable or is unprotected during the bottling

process could start to deteriorate relatively quickly. Of course, this

decline in quality is not exclusive to organic wines.

So the true response to the question of whether an organic wineages well essentially depends on the winemaker and the wine.

Only objectively tasting a well-chosen aged wine will give the endconsumer the answer. Another worthwhile question we couldpose might be, ”Why wait, sometimes a very long time, beforedrinking a wine?” I confess that this is often my feeling; apart fromthe excitement we might experience drinking a vintage wine, toomany wines are drunk too late, when they are no longer at theirbest. And that’s often a pity!

Jean NatoliConsultant oenologist and organic winemaker

President of Vino Latino


ORGANIC NEWS

ALSACEAlsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer A.C.92/100 Sparr Tradition Sporen 2009 15.00 €90/100 Frédéric Mallo & fils Rosacker

Vendanges Tardives - 50 cl 2007 11.50 €Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris A.C.94/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Vorbourg

Vendanges Tardives 2008 19.10 €Alsace Grand Cru Riesling A.C.95/100 Domaine Sylvie Spielmann Kanzlerberg 2006 17.50 €91/100 Kuentz-Bas Pfersigberg - Trois Châteaux 2008 18.10 €

BORDEAUXSaint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.92/100 Château Fonroque Vintage 2008 24.00 €91/100 Château Fonplégade Vintage 2008 40.00 €

BOURGOGNEChablis Grand Cru A.C.95/100 Domaine Christian Moreau

Père et Fils Les Clos 2009 24.00 €Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru A.C.94/100 Aegerter Jean-Luc & Paul Vintage 2008 140.00 €93/100 Château Philippe-le-Hardi Vintage 2008 58.00 €Corton Charlemagne Grand cru A.C.96/100 Domaine Bertagna Vintage 2009 88.00 €Gevrey-Chambertin A.C.91/100 Domaine Philippe Leclerc

1er Cru la Combe aux Moines 2008 39.00 €Meursault A.C.96/100 Guy Bocard 1er Cru Charmes 2008 35.00 €94/100 Domaine Rougeot 1er Cru Charmes 2009 35.00 €90/100 Domaine Rougeot Monatine 2009 19.00 €

Here is our selection of French organic wines (and wines from wineriesin the process of conversion) that received the best scores in our recenttastings (at least 90/100). They are categorised by winegrowing region,by appellation and by score. You can also refer to our tasting notes onour website www.gilbertgaillard.com or now on your smartphone.

A comprehensive site entirely dedicated to wine:REGULARLY UPDATED GILBERT & GAILLARD TASTING NOTES:

Our encyclopaedic database, with information on production areas, grape varieties, wine regions’ histories

c Food and wine matching…

cArticles, in-depth reports, comments and views, newscThe Gilbert & Gaillard newsletter

All you need to know about wine!

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Read all our tasting reportson www.gilbertgaillard.com

Port and Madeira,those fortifiedwines from

Portugal, are reveredaround the world for theirdistinctive character. Thebreadth of styles of bothPort and Madeira issurprising; each is producedin a different way, linkedto their different histories.One of the most extra-ordinary aspects ofthese wines, aside fromtheir legendary tastes, isthat they can be drunkindefinitely. A 200-year-oldMadeira or Port can beexceptional, which putsthese wines in a league oftheir own. Savouring avery old wine always

conjures reflection upon the history through which the wine haslived, and Port and Madeira wines take one further back in timethan any others can.

In 1754, the agents for the Association of Port Wine Shipperswrote of Port: “It should feel like liquid fire in thestomach…it should burn like inflamed gunpowder… shouldhave the tint of ink… it should be like the sugar of Brazil insweetness and the spices of India in aromatic flavour,” andcenturies later, this colourful description still holds true.Although Port production and trade was dominated by theBritish for a couple of centuries, the Portuguese regained controlof the Port-producing region. One can still taste a difference instyles between the British and Portuguese estates; the style ofBritish Port is bigger, sweeter and more fruit-driven, while thePortuguese estates produce more reserved, elegant wines.There are not many strict rules about how to produce Port,which allows for varying styles, and both British andPortuguese estates are ranked among the top producers.

PHILIPPE ROUX IS A SPECIALIST IN THE NICHE MARKET OF RARE VINTAGES


WINE QUOTATIONS

Ports and Madeiras: Mythicalwines that live (almost) forever

First produced in the mid-15th century, Madeira wines havebeen exported around the world ever since. On the long journeysby ship to the Far East and Australia, the wine in wooden barrelsslowly heated up to around 113˚ F (45˚ C), and gently cooledback down. It was only after a few unsold barrels came back tothe winemakers on the island of Madeira that they realisedthat this slow heating process gave a particularly unique flavour tothe wine. They began to mimic this heating process duringthe ageing to obtain the unique taste, and this heating of thewine remains part of the Madeira winemaking traditiontoday. There are a variety of styles of Madeira thanks to differentgrape varieties, blending from different vintages, and thenumber of years in cask. Madeiras range from pale andmedium-dry to honey sweet.

There are so many styles and personalities of Port and Madeirato explore, more than you may think: from large-structuredand fruity to lighter and refined.

Philippe Roux

©ALL RIGHTS RESER

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Ports and Madeiras: Mythical wines that live (almost) forever


PORTS AND MADEIRAS

YEAR CHÂTEAU APPELLATION RANK VOL PRICE VAT EXCL.

1845 MADEIRA BUAL COSSART GORDON Madeira 0.75 l 1 961.54

1863 BLANDY Malmsey Solera Madeira 0.75 l 2 869.57

1880 BORGES H.M. Malmsey Solera Madeira 0.75 l 7 811.04

1912 CONSTANTINO Porto 0.75 l 1 739.97

1918 SOALHEIRA Porto 0.75 l 1 693.14

1920 COSSART GORDON Madeira 0.75 l 9 660.54

OLIVEIRAS Reserva Bastardo Madeira 0.75 l 4 581.10

1940 GOMES DA CONCEICAO (LUIS) Madeira 0.75 l 1 250.00

1944 ADEGA Porto 0.75 l 1 313.55

1951 BURMESTER Colheita Porto 0.75 l 3 300.1

1957 NIEPOORT Colheita Porto 0.75 l 2 215.72

1963 NIEPOORT Vintage Porto 0.75 l 3 204.85

1965 SOUZA GUEDES Porto 0.75 l 6 129.60

Please contact us for further information: www.gilbertgaillard.com

OUTSTANDING PORT VINTAGES OF THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES

19TH CENTURY1811 1834 1847 1863 1870 1878 1884

20TH CENTURY1900 1908 1912 1927 1931 1935 1945 1955 1963 1966 1970 1977 2000

OUTSTANDING MADEIRA VINTAGES OF THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES

19TH CENTURY1802 1808 1822 1830 1802 1808 1822 1830 1836 1846 1862 1868

20TH CENTURY1900 1901 1910 1936 1931

From Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine

Pruning is an essential part of caring for grapevines. It affects the sizeand shape of the vines, the quantity of grapes produced (and thus theyield per hectare) and plays an important role in the quality of the fruit.

Pruning is a delicate operation that requires both experienceand a skilled hand. Previously carried out with a billhook orpruning knife, today’s winegrowers use hand or pneumaticclippers. In recent years, studies have been looking at how todesign vine-pruning robots, but the complexity of the issues tobe resolved makes their development particularly problematic.Clippers operated by hand are not likely to be phased out anytime soon.

PRUNING METHODSOn the face of it, one might think that the more a vine ispruned back, the lower its yield and the better quality thegrape. Yet meteorological factors are also decisive; in certaincases, they have an even greater influence on the quality of thefruit than the yield per hectare. So pruning must be adapted togrowing conditions.


QUALITY FACTORS

What’s the point of pruning?

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Ariginally, the grapevine was a wild plant: a creeperof the genus Vitis in the family Vitaceae. Althoughit was domesticated thousands of years ago, left to

its natural devices, the vine tends to produce more woodthan fruit.

TAMING THE VINETo counter this effect, a winegrower has to prune his or hervines. Indeed, this is one of the most important steps inwinegrowing, as it has such a critical influence on the qualityof the grapes. Pruning takes place in winter when the vine isdormant. At the beginning of the winter, the vines are pre-pruned, followed by winter pruning. The latter involves cuttingback the number of branches and training the fruit-producingcanes so that those that remain are more robust, resulting inlarger leaves and bigger grapes.

QUALITY FACTORS


There are many different ways to prune grapevines, but thethree basic styles are spur pruning, cane pruning or a mix of thetwo methods. In spur pruning, the spurs on the vine aretrimmed back to two or three buds. Cane pruning involvesleaving long canes with more than three or four buds on eachside of the trunk. Mixed spur and cane pruning consists ofleaving both spurs and canes on the stem. The pruningmethod selected by a winegrower depends on the grape variety,the terrain and the soil, as well as the growing and harvestingmethods (manual or mechanical) practiced.

TRELLISING OR HEAD-TRAININGIn Bordeaux and Burgundy, the vines are grown on trellises(that is, the canes are trained along wires) using the Guyotcane-pruning system, which involves preserving only one caneon each side of the trunk and getting rid of the rest. InBeaujolais and Languedoc-Roussillon, head training was longpreferred. In this method, vines are not trained on a trellis orother system of support, but one or two buds are left on eachof three canes that droop in all directions from the crown ofthe trunk, resulting in a growth shaped a bit like a goblet. InAustralia, these are known as ”bush vines”. However, themechanisation of winegrowing and harvesting, as well as theintroduction of grape varieties from other regions (such asMerlot and Cabernet Sauvignon), have increasingly ledLanguedoc winegrowers to adopt trellising and to modify theirpruning methods to Guyot, Cordon de Royat or Lyre systems.

OTHER PRUNING METHODSThe Mâconnais style of pruning is to bend two long canes sothey form an arc around the vine stem. In Alsace, the DoubleGuyot system (each vine has two canes and two spurs, trainedin opposite directions) is employed on a higher trunk. Twocanes are preserved, each of which has eight to twelve buds. To

PRUNING IS ONE OF THE MOSTIMPORTANT STEPS IN WINEGROWING

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keep yields low, many winegrowers in Alsace decrease thenumber of buds by removing them.

NEW WORLD ICONOCLASTS Winegrowers in North America, South Africa, Australia andNew Zealand have developed pruning methods adaptedspecifically to their terroirs. The richer soils and highertemperatures meant that using European techniques resultedin abundant harvests, but the grapes were of mediocre quality.This led pragmatic American and Australian winegrowers toexperiment with new methods, for example, Lyre pruning.

Pruning is practiced by winegrowers around the world, takinga variety of forms from one region or country to another.Nonetheless, the universal aim is to find the method mostsuitable for the growing conditions, the grape variety and thelocal climate. Gilbert & Gaillard

Don’t count on Woody Allen to celebrate his 76th birthday on December1st: no drum rolls, no clarinet trills, thank you. The American film geniusdoesn’t want to blow out any candles. However, if you want to offer hima French grand cru, he won’t say no.


STARS & WINE



Your new film Midnight in Paris tells thestory of a self-doubting writer who climbsinto an old Peugeot at midnight and sud-denly finds himself in the 1920s. At various”Roaring Twenties” parties, he meets thepainters, authors and filmmakers he hasalways admired: Picasso, Hemingway,Buñuel, Dali... Is there one era from the pastthat appeals to you more than any other? Everyone dreams about going back intime - nostalgia is a feeling with incredibleforce. I think it’s also a way to focus onbeautiful things and deny what’s in

front of you. When you take refuge inthe past, you escape the reality of thepresent. It’s always very nice to thinkthat the Belle Epoque or the RoaringTwenties were a carefree time, withhorses and shiny carriages, beautifulwomen wearing raw silk, etcetera. Ofcourse, you think of Gigi and Maxim’s,of drinking Champagne, of great wines.But you forget an important point: theconditions of life were very differentfrom today, and a lot more uncomfor-table. There was no Novocaine when

you went to the dentist, and definitelyno air conditioning! So I’m not tempted totravel back in time. Or maybe just forone day - with a guarantee of being ableto return to the 21st century! And back tothe same place I left, please. I wouldn’twant to find myself in a basement inDarfur or in a cave with the Taliban!

Is it true that you can only write in theurban jungle of New York while drinkingtea? Yes! Only green tea! My wife and I, wedrink wagonloads. Drinking green teais purifying. It’s a little like cleaningeach of your cells with a high-pressurehose! Inevitably it’s very good for you.I couldn’t live without the noises ofthis city. I have slept in the country,listening to the silence and the occasionalcricket or toad. It was unbearable; myears aren’t used to that kind of sound!It’s too peaceful in the country. It’s nicefor half an hour, an hour at the most,but longer than that and I get nervousand want to go back to New York. I likehearing the cars honking in trafficjams, the sirens of fire trucks trying tomake their way through the traffic andthe jackhammers in the background.Basically, there needs to be excitement,something going on. New York is anepileptic centrifuge and I like that! Justgo to Wazoo Falls in Mississippi andyou’ll see what I mean!

Frank Rousseau with Woody Al len

Woody Allen: "Never a dinnerserved without wine”

STARS & WINE



On what occasions do you drink wine? Never at breakfast! But there’s never adinner served without wine. A meal withoutwine is like a woman without lipstick; it’sjust essential.

What appeals to you about France, andespecially Paris?The streets! I love walking around for hoursand getting lost. There is always somethinginteresting to see in the streets of Paris. It’s acontinual free show: of life! Paris is like anactress, a character in her own right, whonever puts on the same face. I also love thebistros. You can meet really great peoplethere, who are capable of discoursing forhours over pâté and a glass of wine.

What is your favourite French wine? I’m partial to La Tâche, an excellentBurgundy. And also Richebourg andRomanée-Conti Grands Echezeaux andChâteau Lafite … At one time in my life, thebiggest bills I had to pay were for bottles ofwine that cost me a fortune!

Where will your next film be set? In Rome - another city that has greatwine. I’m looking forward to directing

another local vintage: Roberto Benigni!His film Life is Beautiful moved me totears. Needless to say, Italy is also acountry with an impressive range ofwines. I will nevertheless ask my assis-tants to curb my wine enthusiasm! Ihave a film budget to adhere to. I don’twant to go overboard and end up rollingaround under the table!

Will you request the clarinet - an instrumentthat you have mastered perfectly - to beplayed at your funeral?The only thing I ask is that the guyplays in tune! There’s nothing worsethan waking the dead! I’ve beenplaying the clarinet since I was 15.Gene ‘Honey Bear’ Sedric, who playedwith the great Fats Waller, taught methe basics. For over 20 years I’ve playedwith a Rico Royal 5, a bamboo reedthat produces a full sound. A soundthat Boris Vian -also a big wine lover -would probably have appreciated.

Interview in New York by

Frank ROUSSEAU


STARS & WINE

Cameron Diaz. A name you know, a face you can’t forget; a destiny written

in the stars. It only took her a few years to rise to the highest echelons of

Hollywood. Is it any wonder that Jim Carrey didn’t need any special effects

to make his eyes bug out when he sees her in The Mask? But sorry to tell

you guys, the only thing that Cameron can’t resist is Burgundy!

Do you drink only French wines?My father was Cuban and my mother wasfrom a German background. I also havesome Cherokee blood. So I’m a real ethnicmix, which makes me interested in othercountries, other ways of looking at theworld. Since I’ve travelled a lot, and I’m adiehard epicurean, I’ve had the chance toenjoy quite a few different wines. I have toadmit that Chilean wine can now take oncertain French wines. But the French have anincredible talent for putting a wine at centrestage and making it seem fantastic.

Is there a particular wine that transportsyou? I’ve never been disappointed by a Gevrey-Chambertin! It has good structure and, formy taste, just the right amount of fruit andcharacter.

While we’re talking about wine, what aboutthe people who make it - have you met anywinemakers? Not in France, but I have in California!They’re passionate about what they do,friendly, and capable of spending hours andhours in order to achieve perfection and theright balance. I like the fact that they’repurists, and I appreciate their craftsmanshipin creating a vintage. Sometimes they giveyou the impression that they’re holding abottle of rare perfume! I love that world andthe sight of all the bottles perfectly lined up,as well as the ceremony that goes along withdrinking a premium wine. But the thing thatfascinates me the most is the production ofthe oak barrels. It’s like a good film, itliterally captivates me!

Interview in Los Angeles by Frank ROUSSEAU

live it up. At the time, I was a model, and Iremember a particularly spectacular benderthat I should tell you about. One night at aclub I met some other models - male andfemale - from Australia. Since they knew Iwas going to be coming to Australia for aphoto shoot, they came out with somethinglike, ”You can’t visit our country withoutbeing baptised!” Of course, the baptism inquestion consisted of downing as manyglasses of alcohol as humanly possible. Iknow it’s stupid, but, you know, I didn’twant to come across as chicken. Anyway, Istarted with glasses of Champagne, thenmoved on to margaritas, Bloody Marys,daiquiris, rum, and topped it off with a fewcans of beer! Then they dragged me to aJapanese restaurant where I vaguelyremember impressing the Japanese dinerspresent by knocking back litres of sake.They’d never seen anything like it. In theend, I passed out cold on the floor. Sincethat disaster, I’m more careful. Basically,when I go to a club with friends, I insist onbeing the designated driver responsible forgetting everyone home safely. But theexperience did make me realise that ifyou’re going to enjoy the good things in life,you might as well do it with a good wine!

Can you be more specific? Anyone who hasn’t tasted Burgundiesdoesn’t know the meaning of happiness!When I go to France, or, I should say, Paris,in the hotel where I’m staying, I alwaysmake friends with the sommelier. A fewmonths ago, when I was there to promote afilm, I had the chance to taste some amazingwines that I didn’t know at all. One of themhad a label that wasn’t much to look at, butGod, the wine was good. In short, appearancescan be deceiving…

In the movie What Happens in Vegas, yourcharacter parties to excess with AshtonKutcher. To put it directly, spirits were goingdown like water among the slot machines.I believe you yourself discovered thedangers and temptations of alcoholrelatively young? You got that right! When I was 20, I didn’tknow the difference between my knee andmy elbow. I confess that I always wanted to


Cameron Diaz

Cameron Diaz: ”I’ve never beendisappointed by a Gevrey-Chambertin!”

PAUILLAC A.C.Château Pedesclaux 2010 89 90-93 n/aChâteau Croizet Bages 2010 87 n/a 87-88+Château Lynch Bages 2010 95 95-98 87-89Carruades de Lafite 2010 90 93-96 91-94Château Duhart Milon 2010 94 92-95 94-96Château Lafite Rothschild 2010 97 96-99 98-100Château d’Armailhac 2010 90 92-95 89-92Château Clerc Milon 2010 92 93-96 91-93Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 96 95-98 97-100Les Forts de Latour 2010 91 93-96 92-95Château Latour 2010 97 96-99 98-100

SAINT-ESTÈPHE A.C.Château Cos Labory 94 n/a 85-87Château Lafon Rochet 2010 90 90-93 92-94Château Montrose 2010 96 95-98 96-99+Château Cos d’Estournel 2010 94 92-95 95-97

MARGAUX A.C.Château Boyd Cantenac 2010 91 90-93 91-93Château Pouget 2010 89 89-92 n/aChâteau d’Issan 2010 96 89-92 94-96Château Rauzan Gassies 2010 93 89-91 90-93Château Rauzan Segla 2010 96 94-97 92-94Château Lascombes 2010 94 89-92 94-97

RECOMMENDED WINES


For a comprehensive overview of some great wines of Bordeaux vintage2010, compare our tasting notes with those of our well-known Americancompetitors.* *www.gilbertgaillard.com , *www.erobertparker.com and *www.winespectator.com

GILBERT & GAILLARDT H E W O R L D W I D E W I N E S I G N A T U R E

n/a = not available

WINE SCORES

95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir

meets exceptional winemaking expertise

90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,

complexity and remarkable winemaking

85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which

we enjoyed for its typicity and character

80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,

structure and neatness for

a pleasurable wine drinking experience

75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable

70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable

65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible

50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in

our publications.

Continued on page 113

RECOMMENDED WINES


Château Malartic La Gravière blanc 2010 91 90-93 n/aChâteau Couhins 2010 91 89-92 n/aChâteau Couhins Lurton 90 87-90 n/aChâteau Bouscaut 2010 91 n/a n/aDomaine de Chevalier 2010 99 92-95 92-94+Château Olivier 2010 93 89-92 90-92Château Latour Martillac 2010 92 89-92 90-92Château Fieuzal 2010 97 90-93 92-94Château Pape Clément 2010 92 92-95 93-96Château Smith Haut-Lafite 2010 95 92-95 n/a

PESSAC LÉOGNAN A.C. (RED WINES)La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2010 89 92-95 91-94Le Clarence de Haut Brion 2010 91 n/a 90-93Château La Mission Haut Brion 2010 95 95-98 98-100Château Haut Brion 2010 97 96-99 98-100Domaine de Chevalier 2010 92 92-95 91-93+Château Smith Haut Lafite 2010 95 n/a n/aChâteau Pape Clément 2010 92 93-96 93-95+Château Olivier 2010 90 88-91 86-88Château Malartic Lagravière 2010 90 91-94 92-94Château Latour Martillac 2010 88 89-92 90-92Château Haut Bailly 20210 95 n/a 95-97Château Couhins Lurton 89 97-90 n/aChâteau Couhins 2010 93 n/a n/aChâteau Carbonnieux 2010 92 89-92 91-93Château Fieuzal 2010 98 90-93 90-92Château Bouscaut 2010 90 n/a n/a

SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU A.C.(1ER GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS)

Château La Gaffelière 2010 98 94-97 91-93Château Magdelaine 2010 93 94-97 92-94Château Belair Monange 2010 95 94-97 95-97+Château Cheval Blanc 2010 97 95-98 96-98+Château Trottevieille 2010 91 n/a 89-91Château Canon 2010 94 91-94 92-94+Château Figeac 2010 98 93-96 n/aChâteau Beauséjour Bécot 2010 90 n/a n/aChâteau Pavie 2010 94 94-97 95-98+Château Pavie Macquin 2010 95 95-98 96-98+Château Beauséjour 2010 95 88-91 96-100Clos Fourtet 2010 96 92-95 95-97

SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU A.C.(GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS)

Château Grand Corbin 2010 91 88-91 NDChâteau Grand Corbin Despagne 2010 92 88-91 88-90

Château Cantenac Brown 2010 93 91-94 92-94+Château Kirwan 2010 95 90-93 90-93Château Desmirail 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau Brane Cantenac 2010 98 90-93 93-96Château Prieuré Lichine 2010 94 89-92 92-94Château Malescot Saint-Exupery 2010 94 93-96 n/aChâteau Marquis de Terme 2010 90 91-94 n/aChâteau Ferrière 2010 91 89-92 85-87Pavillon de Margaux 2010 91 n/a 90-92Château Margaux 2010 97 96-99 96-98

SAINT-JULIEN A.C.Château Talbot 2010 92 90-93 91-93Château Saint-Pierre 2010 95 91-94 95-97+Château Léoville Poyferré 2010 99 92-95 95-98Château Léoville Barton 2010 100 94-97 91-93+Château Langoa Barton 2010 93 92-95 90-92Château Lagrange 2010 94 90-93 89-92Château Branaire Ducru 2010 96 92-95 93-95Château Beychevelle 2010 90 89-92 90-92

SAUTERNES AND BARSAC A.C.Château d’Arche 95 n/a 91-93Château Broustet 92 n/a n/aChâteau Caillou 94 n/a n/aChâteau Doisy-Daëne 98 92-95 92-94Château Doisy Védrines 98 92-95 91-93Château Filhot 93 91-94 n/aChâteau Lamothe 94 n/a 87-89Château Lamothe Guignard 96 n/a 89-91Château de Malle 2010 92 n/a 92-94Château de Myrat 2010 94 n/a 91-93Château Romer 2010 96 n/a n/aChâteau Suau 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau Coutet 2010 94 93-96 93-95Château Guiraud 2010 92 92-95 91-93Clos Haut-Peyraguey 93 n/a 90-92Château Rabaud-Promis 2010 99 n/a 91-93Château de Rayne Vigneau 2010 91 n/a 89-91Château Rieussec 2010 91 93-96 90-92Château Sigalas Rabaud 2010 90 n/a 91-93Château La Tour Blanche 2010 93 93-96 92-94Château d’Yquem 2010 97 93-96 96-98

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN A.C. (WHITE WINES)Château la Mission Haut Brion blanc 2010 92 94-97 93-95+Château Haut-Brion blanc 2010 93 94-97 94-97Château Carbonnieux 2010 blanc 98 89-92 n/a

Continued on page 114


RECOMMENDED WINES

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EDITORIAL DIRECTORS: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard

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CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE: Mark Andrew, Jean Batilliet,Christophe Chapillon, Nicolle Croft, Hubrecht Djuiker,Janet Edsforth-Stone, Priscillia Gadayan, DomitilleGoulon, Thibaud Harlé, Louise Hurren, Jean Natoli, Jamal Rayyis, Frank Rousseau, Philippe Roux,

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with acapital of 35,500 euros • Head office: 7 Parc desFontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representativeand Editorial director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: sec-ond quarter 2011 • Joint consultative committee: 0612 K90504 • ISSN 2110-6762

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CONTACT DETAILS OF ESTATES FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Cellier des Demoiselles +33 (0) 4 68 44 02 [email protected]

Champagne P. Lassalle-Hanin+ 33 (0) 3 26 03 40 [email protected]

La Cadiérenne+ 33 (0)4 94 90 11 [email protected]

Domaine de l’Olivette+ 33 (0)4 94 98 58 [email protected]

Champagne Marquis de Pomereuil+ 33 (0)3 25 29 32 [email protected]

Domaine Sainte Croix+ 33 (0) 6 85 67 63 [email protected]

Michel Vattan+ 33 (0) 2 48 79 40 98www.michel-vattant.com

Domaine Saint-André de Figuière+33 (0)4 94 00 44 [email protected]

Château Chauvin 2010 89 n/a 89-91Château Grandes Murailles 2010 94 n/a 91-94Château La Couspaude 2010 88 90-93 91-93Château Corbin Michotte 2010 89 n/a n/aChâteau Bergat 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau Yon Figeac 2010 88 n/a n/aChâteau Faurie de Souchard 89 89-92 n/aClos Saint Martin 2010 88 n/a 90-92Château Le Prieuré 2010 91 92-95 92-94Château Guadet 2010 87 n/a n/aChâteau Larcis Ducasse 2010 94 92-95 95-97Château Bellefont Belcier 2010 93 90-93 91-93Château La Clotte 2010 89 90-93 91-93Château La Tour Figeac 2010 89 90-93 88-90Château Cadet Piola 2010 88 n/a n/aChâteau Moulin du Cadet 2010 94 n/a 86-88Château La Dominique 2010 91 92-95 92-94Château Monbousquet 2010 93 92-95 91-93Château Pavie Decesse 2010 91 93-96 94-96Château Grand Corbin 2010 94 88-91 n/aChâteau Fonplégade 2010 93 88-91 92-94Couvent des Jacobins 2010 92 n/a n/aChâteau Franc Mayne 2010 92 89-92 90-92Château Laroze 2010 87 89-92 n/aChâteau Petit Faurie de Soutard 2010 86 n/a n/aChâteau Dassault 2010 90 88-91 89-91Château Laroque 2010 92 88-91 90-92Château Cap de Mourlin 2010 88 n/a n/aChâteau Haut Corbin 2010 92 88-91 n/aChâteau Ballestard La Tonnelle 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau Larmande 2010 91 n/a 86-88Château La Serre 2010 88 92-95 86-88Château Fonroque 2010 94 n/a 88-90+Château Soutard 2010 94 n/a 85-88Château Villemaurine 2010 91 89-92 88-90Château Grand Pontet 2010 94 n/a 88-90Château La Tour du Pin 2010 92 n/a 90-93

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Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Magazine - Summer 2011

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