November | December 2009

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3 HiddenGems

6 Accessories

7 DigitalTakeover

8 AWindowWonderland

10 NewYorkStreetStyle

12 AHolidayStaycation

16 Travel:CostaRica

18 TheRealityofRealityTelevision

19 HowtheBusinessKillstheArt

20 RestaurantReview:Savoy

21 GreenmarketMeals

22 OnceUponaModernTime

30 ContemporaryCottage

32 ANewlyDemocraticArtWorld

Table of coNTeNTs

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Carrie GoldbergEsther HammermanKatie Suarez

Katie Schloss

Stephanie DeutschNina Swiderski

Dearreader,After much hard work, we hope you enjoy our pilot

publication,designedtobringyouarticulateandthoughtfulinterpretations of your interests. Our goal was to create afashionfocusedpublicationforstyle-centricwomenseekingaluxuriouslifestyle,attimesonabudget,byrelyingonthehiddengemsofeveryday,urban life.Througharticlesandeditorialsthatprofileundiscovered,youngfashiondesigners,the avant-garde, unusual restaurants and unique traveldestinations,GEMhopes toprovideyou,ourreaders,withrare,distinct,andinspirationalartifacts,transformingyouintoatastemakerandopinionleaderamongstyoursocial

circle.ThroughGEM,wehopetodelivernewandinnovativeanglesonclassicfashionjournalismandphotography.

This innovationwas aided by our contributors,LaurenDunitz, Tal Sharon andAmayaMaurie to whomwe owemanythanks.Fromstudentstoyoungprofessionals,wehopethat all GEM readers think of themselves as intelligent,fashion savvy seekers of the latest undiscovered gems andtrendsandGEMshouldserveasyourportaltothatexclusiveworld.

Yours,Carrie,Nina,Katie,Esther,Stephanie,&Katie

meeT The eDiTors

HIDDEN ACCESSORIES

It’s 7:00 AM on a Friday morningwhen Stephanie Marie Alexandris ofNATIVE by Stephanie Marie wakesup to go to theHenriBendel’s Open-See,abiannualeventinwhichthrivingdesignersfromacrossthecountrycometo show their unseen collections to theBendel’sbuyers.

Outside the store sporting her blackpatent YSL Tribute booties, leatherjacket and Prada tote, StephanieMarie explains that her handmade,beaded collection was devised whilstsummeringwithherfamilyonthecoastof Colombia. “The jewelry line startedwhenmyaunt,whowenttoatechnicalschool for beading, askedme to designsomepiecesI’dlike[formyself],andsoIdid…WhenItraveledbacktoColombia,[thejewelry]hadbeenmadeandlookedtrulyexquisite!Theconceptofanactualbusiness didn’t occur until I saw howmuchinteresttheyweregetting.”

Since those summer days, StephanieMarie has been selling her jewelryup north in New York City. “I can’tcomplain—I have pieces in threeboutiquesandhaveagrowingclientele.As of now, the collar, which I namedEros, is a favorite…The cuffs are alsodoing really well; they are so easy towear.”ItwasnotuntilStephanieMariecamebacktotheStatesthatshesettledonthe companynameNATIVE. “My line

isproducedinColombiabyColombians.Theworkmanshipisnativetotheregionandthefactthatthelineismanufacturedin a small Colombian village enablesthoseworkingonNATIVEtosendtheirchildrentoschoolandprovidefortheirfamilies—opportunities they did notpreviouslyhave.WhenIthinkaboutthecommunitycreatedbymypieces,itgivesme a reason to continue designing andproducingthecollectionthere.”

Given that NATIVE by StephanieMarie is doing so much good for thecommunitythataidsinitsproduction,itdoesnotcomeasashockthatnomatterwherethedesignertravels,herintricatenecklaces and bracelets instantly bringher back to the natives of her countryand the Colombian landscape. Thedesigner states that the pieces evoke,“Colombian passion, colors, spice, joy,pride, bohemia, comfort, elegance, loveand peace... [the jewelry] reminds meofmypeople—weareallproud,nativeColumbians.”

Despite Stephanie Marie’s proudheritage,sheplanstokeepherbusinessintheNewYorkarea.“Ideally,IwanttobesellingtoshopslikeBendel’s,”shesays with a laugh looking towards theelegantdepartmentstoreinfrontofher.Thinking for amoment she continues,“Well,Iwouldwanttoopenupmyownboutique,sothat’sreallythebigpicture.”

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nativejewelrybyKatieSchloss

four

While most 15-year-olds are taking their first AP level classes, learning how to drive and perhaps even dabbling in the college admis-

sions process, Miguel “Migs” Baeza has already landed a career as a music producer.

Baeza, who started producing music when he was only 13-years-old, has already worked with leading artists such as Ashanti and Flo-Rida. In 2000, “Migs’” father, Mario Baeza, founded AJM Records which successfully launched Ashanti’s career with the help of Def Jam/Murder

Inc. Records. Following in his father’s footsteps, Miguel has embraced the music industry and seems to be taking it by storm. Mario Baeza comments that this is “...every father’s dream...to really pick up the baton

and run with it, he has done that beautifully.”

While balancing rigorous academics, soccer and Eagle Scouts, Miguel has also taken on new projects such as producing tracks for Erika de Luna’s new album. The up-and-coming singer describes Miguel as “extremely talented… So in a few years, I’m really excited to see what he could be. It’s going to be good.”

In the future, Miguel hopes to attend his mother’s alma mater, Princeton, and work with the likes of Jay-Z, Busta Rhymes and Lil Wayne, whose music he has listened to “from the beginning.” “I like to create songs that combine both the artist’s sound and my own,” says Miguel “Migs” Baeza. “I want the music to be an honest collaboration

between the artist and me.”

prodigy producer

in private schoolshummingbirds

by Katie Schloss

by Carrie Goldberg

HIDDEN CULTURE

ThinkGossip GirlmeetsMurielSpark’sThe Prime of Miss Jean Bro-die,addadashofVirgin Suicidesandyouhavegotthisholidayseason’smust-read.JoshuaGaylord’s firstworkof fiction,Hummingbirds, is awittytaleofhowtwomaleEnglishteachers,LeoBinhammerandTedHughes, navigate their way through The Carmine-Casey School forGirls,anUpperEastSideprivateschool.Thebooksimultaneouslychroniclesayearinthelifeoftheinstitu-tion’sstudents,whoareleadbytheirqueen-bee,DixieDoyle,afrivolouspseudo-princess who goes nowhere without her entourage and uttersFrenchphraseswhilelackingtheabilitytospeakthelanguage.Doyle’sarchnemesisistheeye-rollingLizWarren,theintelligentplaywrightatCarmine-Casey.GaylordflexeshismetaphoricalmusclebeautifullyusingthedichotomybetweenLizandDixietoparallelthatofBinham-merandHughes.Thisworkoffictionisaidedbytheauthor’sreal-lifeexperience;Josh-ua,orDr.Gaylordashisstudentsrefertohim,isateacherataneliteUpperEastSideprivateschool.Gaylordguideshisreadersthrougharomanticizedversionofhisownworldwithamplepoeticlicenseandyetanobservantlens.Hisuniqueinsightopensthedoortoanexclusiveworld—atruetreatforGossip Girlfansandliteratureloversalike.

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cupcake by Carrie Goldberg

creations

HIDDEN FOOD

Sittingonthekitchencountertopwhilehergrandfather,aformernavalchef,cookedforherfamily,ErinPhranerdevelopedaloveforfood.Herloveforfemininitycamesoonafter.The last lady in a long line of food-adoringmatriarchs,Erin fell right into thehabit ofmakinghergastronomicaltalentsundoubtedlygraceful,withoutahintofdomesticity.

Born in the small yachting town ofNorthport, New York, Erin moved to NewYorkCitywithanopenmindandan emptystomach to attend New York University.WhilemajoringinEducationalTheater,Erinhadaharder,secretandself-inflicteddoublemajorasafoodieandfoodblogger.StudyingabroadinParisherjunioryearinspiredherblog,Food & Femininity, thatshedescribesasthetaleof“ayoungFrancophilepursuingherexploration of the world through the sights,smells, and tastes of the places she visits.”

Although the website was born in Paris,Erin has guided her readers through thefreshmarkets, fine restaurants, and theDo-It-Yourself culinary adventures of Nice,Chantilly, Monaco, Barcelona, Amsterdam,Dublin,London,Berlin,Houston,Burilngton,Tampa, Athens and her beloved New York.She has introduced readers to her friends,familyanddeepestlove–pastries,particularlycupcakes.Frombirthdaystolatenightbakes,“just-because,” Erin shares her successesandfailures in thekitchenwithherdevotedfollowers,alongwithhercovetedrecipes.ButonerecipeisstayingsafeinthePhranervault:Erin’srecipeforred-velvet,onethattookthreeyearstoperfect,isawellkeptsecretnottobetakenaslightlyasitswhippedfrosting.WhenI asked Erin for some hints to the moist,

cherry-red cake batter, she finally concededandgavemetwomeasurementsfortherecipe’sfoundation and holy grail: flour and sugar.OnceIheardthateachofthesemeasurementsbrokedownthebasicingredientsintofractionsunheard of in the common kitchen, I knewIwasbetter off appreciating the taste of thetreats rather than attempting them myself.Who but Ms. Phraner would know how toremembertoinclude3/8’sofanything?�

After experimenting with cupcakesin flavors as elaborate as Thai Iced Tea,ChocolateBalsamicandStoneFruitPierogi,downtownNewYorkwasabuzzwithErin’sgastronomicaltalents.Shebegantotakeworkasaprivatecaterer,andherworkbothsavoryandsweethasleadtohundredsofsugar-highandsatisfiedcustomers.Upongraduation,Erinfoundworkatafoodpublicationwhere,luckyforherblog readers, shecannowexperiencefoodonnewlevelsandonadailybasis.Whenasked about her culinary hidden gem, Eringushedaboutthesweetn’saltycakeatBaked,abakeryinRedHook,Brooklyn.“Theownerand baker, Matt, created the boys’ club ofbakeries–nothingpinkorfrilly,perfectforanygirlyfoodie’sfirstdate!”

Whilebalancingquite thework schedule,rest assured that Erin has plans for Food & Femininity. Her next stop?� Thanksgivingin Prague! Not to worry, Erin won’t besuffering through those god-awful airplanedinners. She has recently created airplanefriendlystuffingmuffinsandapple-raspberrybars that she plans to take as her carry-on for her Czech-Thanksgiving. Read upon this trip as well as Erin’s future food-ventures on foodnfemininity.blogspot.com.

byKatieSchloss

Thisholidayseason,findinggiftsthatkeepongivingcouldnotbeeasier.FromTOMSshoestoJoanHornigjewelry,designersleftandrightarefindingwaystogivebacktotheirrespectivecommunities.Indulgeandfeelgoodaboutyourpurchases this holiday season by opting for apairofTOMScanvasshoesoraRachelLeighluckyturtlenecklace.Afterall,foreverypairofTOMSshoespurchased,onepairisgiventoachildinneed.WithapurchaseofselectRachelLeighnecklaces,onecansupportgreatcharitiessuch as the Turtle Ridge Foundation, Makethe Difference Network and Comfort ZoneCamp. Not sure where yourmoney is going?�Not a problem. With Joan Hornig jewelry,you decide to what charity the donation willgo. JoanHornig donates 100% of her profitsto registered non-profits around the world;personalize your gifts this holiday season bypickingameaningfulcharitythatyoucansharewithyourlovedones. ‘Tistheseasonafterall!

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‘Tis The seasoN To be GiviNG

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Astheageoftheprintpublicationbeginstowane,andtherisingpopularityofonlinemagazinesandbloggingtakeplace,GEMhasdecidedtofurtherinvestigatethisseductivelynewmedium.

WiththerecentdeathsofCondéNastpublications,Gourmet,Modern Bride,Elegant BrideandCookie alongwiththeFederalTradeCommission’snewruleforbloggers,themagazineindustryisre-evaluatingitsfutureandrealizingthepowerofblogsandonlinepublications.TheFTC’slatestregulationstatesthatbloggersarenowrequiredtodeclarewhenanitemisgiftedtothem,ratherthanreferringtoitasaself-discovery.Althoughthisruleismoreofanannoyancethananend-alltobloggers,itgoestoshowhowpopularandpowerfultheartofblogginghasbecome.Nolongerjustasimplemeansofself-expression,blogs,particularlyfashionblogs,aresupplementingafashionista’sprintreading.Inourinformation-overloadandnews-obsessedcultureitisnosurprisethatblogsaregainingpopularity.Asmostfashionmagazinescomeoutonamonthlybasisatbest,certainblogsareupdatedfrequentlythroughouttheday.

Itisnoteasyforprinttocompetewiththistypeoffrequencyandavailability.Evenfashiondesignersarerecognizingthepowerthatbloggershold,invitingpeopleofallagesandexperiences(includingacertain13-year-oldsuperstarnamedTavi)totheirexclusiveshows.Readersviewablogasawriter’spersonalstatement,naïvetothefactthatbloggersarebeingwinedanddinedbymanymajorbrands.Manyseeblogsasahelpful,insidetipandviewthesubconsciousadvertisinglesscynicallythantheywouldinaprintpublication.Thefactthatareader/viewercancommunicatedirectlywithabloggerthankstocommentsectionsandemailscreatesanevendeepersenseofintimacyandassumedhonesty.

Thepopularityofblogshasinspiredfashionpublicationstotakeamoreseriouslookattheironlinecounterparts.GQhasrecentlyup-edtheanteontheirwebsite,creatingamaleversionofstyle.comthtgivesitsreadersaccesstoreviews,detailedphotographsofmen’sfashionshows,stylingtipsandotherinterestingarticlesnotfeaturedinthemagazine.CondéNast,thepowerfulpublishinghouse,istryingtoremedyitsrecentcutsandclosuresbycreatingonlinehomesforthemajorityofitsmagazinesaswellasarecentiPhoneapplication.GEMisn’tfarbehind,we’llbelaunchingouronlinehomeinmonthstocome.Staytunedforaconstantexposureofhiddengemsattheclickofafinger!

DiGiTal Takeover

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a WiNDoW WoNDerlaND:

GEM:WhathasitbeenlikedoingtheChristmaswindowsatBergdorfGoodman?�MAX:It’sbeenveryexcitingandchallenging.Mybiggestbattlehasbeenworkinginverysmallandcrampedspacesbecausetherearealotofornamentsthathavetoworkaestheticallywithinthatspace.

GEM:So,whathasbeenyourbiggestchallengeonthejob?�MAX: My biggest challenge has been putting up a very,very heavy mannequin with an even heavier AlexanderMcQueen gown. The window is Alice in WonderlandinspiredandthedressinthatwindowhasaVortexdesign,likeapinwheel.Thedresshasthreetofourlayersoftulleandmanylayersofsilk-satin.Notonlywasthistheheaviestdressweworkedwith,butwehadtohangthemannequinvertically,soitlookedlikeitwaslookingdownonagameof chess. Itwasdefinitely challenging getting itup there!

GEM:Doyouhaveanyfunnyexperiencesyou’dliketoshare?�MAX: Well, a mannequin once fell from the ceiling,shatteringintopieces.Adesignerwhohasbeenthereforeversaid,“Thatbitchalmostkilledme!”Itdoesn’texactlysoundfunnynowthatI’msayingitoutloud,butjusttheimageofthismannequinbreakingintopiecesandthiswonderfullyflamboyant,oldergentlemansayingthatwasjustpriceless.Itwasreallyoneofthosemomentswhereyoujustcouldn’thelpbutwanttoembracethefashionindustry,andforme,itwasoneofthosemomentswhereIreallyfeltapartofit.

GEM:What’syourfavoritewindowdisplay?�MAX: My favorite window display is completely madeoutofpaper.Oneof thedesigners,hisname isJay,madeit and it’s beautiful.They got all of these paper artists tocome in and make birds, typewriters and desks, and it’spaired with this amazing Marc Jacobs dress. I thinkit’s the most operatic window display I have ever seen.

GEM:Whataretheotherwindowdisplaydesignerslike?�Whatkindsofprojectsaretheyworkingon?�MAX:Theotherartistsareverycreativeandself-motivated.ManyhaveprojectsoutsideofBergdorfGoodman.Toworkthere, you have to be very artistic in your approach toprojects.Asfortheirotherprojects,theyvary.Somedotheir

ownpaintings,someareinartschool,othersarefreelancersforwindows.Ithinkthereareevenafewpeoplethatmakecandlesticks!Basically,creativepeoplejustmakeeverything.They do things that youwould never think possible andthey have made me realize that anything is possible.

GEM:Whathaveyoubeenworkingonlately?�MAX:I’vebeenworkingonadressforanup-and-comingopera singeranda sculpturalpieceof installation foranNYU showing. The dress for the opera singer is a nudegownwith a Chanel inspired silhouette. I have paired itwithFrenchribbons,whichhavebeeninspiredbyToulouseLautrec’s impressionist paintings. It’s kind of likeHérveLéger,justbecauseofthepopsofcolor.It’snottightlikethat though. It’s more of an evening gown. It’s also myfirst wearable piece. I’ve been putting all of my incomefromBergdorfGoodman into it in order to purchase theribbonandfabric,especiallythetulle.ItwillbefinishedattheendofDecember.Asfortheworkthatwillbeshownat theGallatinGalleries at NYU, I will be showingmydressnext to these twoYvesSaintLaurentdresses thatafellow alum has donated. I just feel really lucky, so I’mgoingtotaketheseopportunitiesandreallyrunwiththem.

GEM:WhatotherChristmaswindowsdoyouadmiremost?�MAX: IadmireTiffany’s jewelboxwindowsa lot.Theyhavegottenanewdesignerrecently,andheisdoingagreatjob. I also really admire the Ralph Lauren mansion ontheUpperEastSide.Theyalwaysdoastellarjobaswell.

GEM:Whatareyourplansforthefuture?�MAX: I’d like to continue making pieces of fashionsculpture, andas I get older I’d like towork in ceramicsor some type of sustainable and accessible product likescarvesorplacesettings.OneofthethingsI’mmostlookingforwardtoismeetingpeoplethathaveverydifferentideas.I tend to like peoplewho initially seemalmost awkwardintheirapproachtocreativeprojectsbecausethosearethedreamerswhomakethemostcreativeworks.Ireallylovetheir ideas, and that type of creativity iswhat Iwant tofosterinmyownworkandwhatIwanttokeepshowing.

byKatieSchloss

theuntoldtaleofthebergdorfgoodmanholidaywindows,featuringwindowdesignermaxavikaplan

sTreeT sTyleby: kaTie schloss aND kaTie suarez

sTreeT sTylebyKatieSchlossandKatieSuarez

ten

eleven

a holiDay sTaycaTioN

Drastic economic times call fordesperate measures. Once our walletsare empty from impulse purchasesanddecadentmealsout,wemustseeksomethingmoremodestwhenouropenmindsdreamoflavishgetaways.Inlieuof travel, choose fantasy. Transportyourself to Santorini, Paris, Gstaadand London through the wardrobeyour wallet has been emptied on.Whenmentally traveling, keep resorttrendsinmind—yourfantasiesshouldtakeyouabroadwithluggagecontentsthat are both simple and up to date.

LONDON | SANTORINI Oppositepage:JoiningtheRoyalNavy;J.Crewblazer, Gryphon top, Anlo jeans,Nechemia Azaz ring, ChristianLouboutinshoes.Thispage:SailingwithaStavros;RebeccaTaylordress,AlexisBittarandGorjananecklaces,onfloor:MiuMiushoes.

PARIS | Smooth satins;VintageYvesSaintLaurenttop, Objets Trouves skirt,Chanel shoes, Forever 21,Chanel and Darien SportShopnecklaces,Chanelbag.

GSTAAD|Lushleatherandvelvets;CynthiaSteffedress,Christian Louboutin shoes,Forever 21 bangle, Spanxhosiery,RachelLeighring.

sixteen

cosTa rica :

therichcoastonabudget

stay eat partySituated on the northwest

Pacific coast of Costa Rica,The TamarindoDiriaBeachand Golf Resort is a four-star luxuryretreat thatwon’tbreak the bank. With thewhitesandsandclearwateroftheTamarindobeachatyourfeet,thisisonelavishlodgingyouwill neverwant to leave.PrepareforsomeseriousR&R.

Whileitmayhaveakitschyrainforest theme, La Casade Doña is one of the mostfamous restaurant chains inthe Central Valley of CostaRica.Pricesrangefromfivetoeight dollars a plate, and theportions of rice, chicken andbeansdonotrunsmall.Comehungry—there is no shortageoffoodatthisauthenticeatery.

Don’tbefooledbythisbar’slocation. While The MonkeyBar is located in Tamarindo’sBest Western Hotel, thishotspot plays live music atnight and serves affordabledrinks with a tropical twist.Whetheryouarelookingforaclubvibeorarelaxedscene,themultilevel Monkey Bar offerssomethingforeveryone.

byStephanieDeutsch

cosTa rica :

therichcoastonabudget

seventeen

shop see doThe main street that runs

alongthebeachinTamarindois lined with a multitudeof shopping options. Largesouvenir and artisan craftshops share the light withlocal vendors who lay outtheiraffordableandauthenticjewelry alongside the road.Feel free to haggle over theprice;it’sexpected!

Costa Rica may have lushtropics, warm weather andclearbeacheslikemanyresortspotsaroundtheglobe,butitsanimalhabitatsareauniquesight to see. Playa Grandeis a nesting area for giantleatherbackturtles,andtoursare led to see this incrediblespectacle from October toMarch.

Itisonethingtowalkinsidea rainforest, but it is quiteanother to fly inside of one.While zip-lining in the lushMonteverde Cloud Forest, itis commonto seemonkeys inthetreesandanimalsroamingtheforestfloorbelow.Beforeleaving CostaRica, onemusttrythisactivity,alsoknownastree-hopping.

Allphotosonthispagecourtesyofwww.sxc.hu.Top

photo,oppositepage:courtesyofwikipedro.Outlineof

CostaRicamapcourtesyofworldatlas.com.

byKatieSuarez

Recentrealitytelevisionshow,MTV’sThe Hills, has created an interestingeffect on the public’s perception of thefashion magazine industry and therole of the intern. The catty battlesbetween cast members have portrayedthe industry as a cesspool of ditzy,superficialwomen.

Although the showhas exposed thepublic to the hard work entailed increating a magazine and increasedprofessional interest in the industryas a whole, it has similarly undercutthe talentof the editors creating thesepublications. These programs put ageneralbadtasteinthemouthsofmanyfashioneditors,adistastewhichleadtotheeventualdismissalofConradfromTeenVogue.

A plethora of young womenwere inspired by the shimmeringsurroundingsandfabulousperksofthegirls’supposedinternshipsatTeenVogue,leading to an exponential increasein intern applications to fashionmagazines.AlthoughaninternshiponThe Hillsseemstobeanidealentranceinto the glamorous world of fashion,their internships were anything

but ordinary. While it’s practicallyimpossibletofindaninternshipinthefashion or journalism industry thatispaid, thesegirlsweremakingabout$20,000 per episode, a little fact thatwould severely change the experienceandlifeofanyfashionintern.

As a veteran intern, I can tell youthe job is often not as glamorous asit appears. Packing boxes, gettingcoffee, sorting mail, making copiesand returning heavy garment bagsfull of samples are among an intern’sdaily duties. That is not to say thatthere aren’t some serious perks; freedesigner goods, dressing half-nakedmale models and working the doorsof exclusive parties are only a few ofa fashion intern’s responsibilities. NomatterhowmanytimesIhaveburntmyhandona steamer, I cannot complainaboutassistingonphotoshootsinlargeNewYorkstudios.Butcollegestudentsandfresh-from-the-ovengraduatesmust

realize that these perks are earnedonlyafteronehasprovedhisorherselfworthyandthedirtydailydutieshavebeenaccomplished.

MTV’sThe Hillshashelpedandhurtthe fashion magazine industry. Theindustryhasbeenhelpedbytheexposureandpopularityithasgained,whichleadto more applications and many moreyoung,helpful interns.Onemust keepinmind that this business is not justaplaceofcattywomendecidingwhichbootisthe“it”bootoftheseasonbutofhard working, intelligent individuals.If interns aim to one day achieve thesamestatusastheladiesseatedinthosepristine glass offices, they have got togettheirhandsdirtyfirst!

The realiTy of realiTy TelevisioNhowMTV’sthe hillshasalteredtheworldoffashionandtheroleofthefashionintern

“Asaveteranintern,Icantellyouthejobisoftennotasglamorousasitappears.”

Left:LaurenConradandWhitneyPortatTeenVogue andattheCrillonBallinParisonThe Hills.

Below:PreviousTeenVogueinterns,PortandConrad,posefortheAugust2007cover.

ScreenshotscourtesyofMTVNetworks.

eighteen

Fashionweek.ThoseglitteringweeksinSeptemberandFebruaryofeveryyearthatfashionistasaroundtheglobeanticipate.Thoseweekswhichfeaturethefutureoffashionwhileshoutingoutbeautifulidealsand dreams from every conceivable designer. It’s afantasticaltimewheneveryeditor,journalist,bloggerandphotographerbreathlesslyawaitsfashion’snextbigthing.

After each show we shamelessly log on tostylewebsitestoexaminethereview,picturedfull collection and detailed shots of eachline.Wemakeourownmentallookbooksandfallinlovewiththevariousmust-have obscurities of the upcomingseason. Little does one know thathalf of our absolute, can’t-live-without, necessities will becancelled from the line tonever see the productionlight of day. “How couldthis happen?�,” one asksoneself.Itispureandsimple economics;and economicsin terms offashion week

translates to that little thing called coterie. Coterietakes place the week after fashion week, whenbuyers fromallof themajordepartment storesandboutiquesmaketheirwayovertoanothersetoftents.Asbuyersvieweachcollectionand select thepiecestheypresumewillsellmosteffectively,thoseobscure,out-theremusthavesare thrown from the spotlightandcancelledfromtheline.

AperfectexampleofthistypeoffashiontravestyisAlexanderMcQueen’s“alien”shoesfromhisSpring2010 collection. These ten-inch, jewel encrustedanklebootiesandpumpsare enough tomakeAnnaWintourshedsometearsforthepuregeniusoftheirconcepts.Unfortunately,itisexactlytheseexamplesof dreamlike madness that stay dreams and nevermakeittothestreet.Nottoworryladies,wecanstilladmire them in the fierce-as-ever,LadyGaga “BadRomance”musicvideo.

Once coteriemakes itswishesheard, the fashionhouses’ design teams begin to produce similar best-sellingstylesthatareproducedyearafteryear.Thisisnotnecessarilyabadthing;weneedthosetrenchcoatsandLBD’s.Buthowmuchmoreinspiringwoulditbe if the boutiques anddepartment storeswere fullofwonderfulodditiesanddreamscometolife,ratherthantheeverydaystaples?�

hoW The busiNess kills The arTbyKatieSuarez

nineteen

twenty

byEstherHammerman

Inanurbanenvironment,cuisinefeaturinglocallygrowningredients is a delicacy not experienced bymany. Savoy, aquaint spot inNewYorkCity’sSoHo, completewithheartyeats anda cozy fireplace, is servingupdishes straight fromthemarket.Theeateryhasremainedtruetoitsclaimofus-inglocalproductstocreatehealthyyetdelectablemeals.Therestaurant successfully designs perfectly portioned mealsthat leave each diner satisfied without being overstuffed.Each dish is presented beautifully and is a meal for thoselooking to stay healthy without having to sacrifice taste.

TheHalfMaineLobster is tender,butteryandcooked toperfection,withjusttherightamountofzest.Servedontopofaportionofhomemadespaghettisquash,theentréewasaflaw-lessconcoctionofflavors.Withachoiceofthreeoutofninesmallplates,youcan’tgowrong.TheBraisedGreens,Broccoli&CauliflowerGratinandWinterSquashDipdeliveredmul-tiplearomas,texturesandspices,whichplayedoffoneanothermagnificently.Mostimportantly,donotleavewithouthavingdessert. TheBittersweet ChocolateMouse Cake topped withcaramelorangesandespressomeringueistheultimatefinishtoadeliciousmeal.Featuringasilkywhippedmouseplacedonacrunchychocolatebottom,thisdessertispurechocolateybliss.

Savoy’sintricatefoodpresentationcomplimentstherestau-rant’sambianceanddécor.Thedownstairshasafresh,upbeatlook andunlikemany locally grown locales, features a fullbar.Foramoreformaldiningexperience,eatupstairsintheirdiningarea.RyanTate,Savoy’scurrentchef,describestheres-taurantas“Comfortable,cozy…reallyahiddengemofSoHo.”

Unbeknownsttopassersby,Savoyhasalottoofferthosewhoventurein.CreatednineteenyearsagobyPeterHoffman,thepi-oneeringchefofthegreenmarketwhohasbeencreditedas“theAliceWatersoftheEastCoast,”Savoyisaccustomedtogetting

anarrayofcustomersfromtouriststoregulars.Savoy’sseasonalmenuisupdatedonanaverageofeighttimesayear,duetotheiringredientsbeingpurchasedsolelyfromlocalfarmerswhosestockschangeinqualityandquantityfromseasontoseason.

After speaking toRyan, who has been the chef at Savoyfor the past three years, GEM got the inside scoop of thechallengesandobstaclesofcookinggreen.Withalocallyin-spired restaurant, there is less planning lavish, ingredient-specific menus. Instead, more time is spent thinking aboutwhat is presently available in the market and the ways inwhich it can be used to create a cohesivemeal. Ryan findsthis process makes it “easier to be inspired by the ingredi-ents.”Hementionedhis love for the continual challenge oflocal cookingand shared storiesofhow the ingredientsdic-tatehisservice.Justthatdayhefoundhimselfinquiteade-bacle.Withadequate ingredients forSquashRingsnowheretobe found,Ryanwas left tocreateanentirelynewdish tobeincorporatedintothelunchmenuonlyhoursinadvance.

Withitsconstantlychangingmenu,Savoyhasleftonedishuntouched: its house staple, the Salt Crusted Baked Duck.Though this couldbe seenasa ratherboringdish toa cheflikeRyan,ithasprovedtobethemostchallenging.Heisal-waystestingoutnewsidedishesthatcomplimentthedistinctflavorsoftheduck.Laughing,Ryancommentsthathetweaksthisdishaboutthirtytimesayear.Whenaskedwhathisfa-vorite time of day is, he said, “making the last plate of theday.”Onemightassumethisisduetoexhaustionafteralongday’swork,butlikeatrulydedicatedchef,itliesinsteadinhisaspirationtomakehislastdisheverybitasgoodashisfirst.

Savoy is located at 70 Prince Street, New York City.

SeaSonal eatS: Savoy

twenty-one

1/4cupmixedgreens1butternutsquash3beetsDried-cranberrycinnamongoatcheese*

GlazeD PecaNs1cuppecans1/4cupbrownsugar1tablespoonbalsamicvinegar

DressiNG1tablespoonoil1tablespoonbalsamicvinegar1/4teaspoonsalt1/2teaspoonmustard1/2teaspoonmayonnaise1teaspoonsugarPinchdriedbasilPinchpepper

cinnamongoatcheeseandroastedvegetablesalad

1. Preheatovento350degrees.2. Peelbutternutsquashandbeets.Cutintosmallpiecesandplace

evenlyonabakingpan.Sprinklewitholiveoilandsalt.Roastfor45minutes,oruntilcooked.

3. Forcandiedpecans:stirsugar,oilandvinegarinalargeskilletovermediumheatforaboutthreeminutes,oruntilsugarmeltsandsyrupboils.Addpecansandstiruntilcompletelycoated.Spreadpecansevenlyontoparchmentpaperorfoilandcoolcompletely.

4. Plategreens,squash,beets,pecansandcheese.Adddesiredamountofdressingandenjoy!

Greenmarket mealS

*Can’t find Dried-Cranberry Cinnamon

Goat Cheese? Visit www.lynnhaven-

nubians.com/cheese or try making your

own! Take a log of goat cheese and roll

it in ground cinnamon generously. Press

a handful of freshly dried cranberries

into the cheese and let sit in refrigerator

for at least a few hours. Adding plain

goat cheese to the salad works just fine

too!

Whywaitonlonggrocerylineswhenyoucansupportyourlocalfarmers?�InspiredbySavoy’sseasonal choices, thisholiday, opt for some-thing freshwithuniquemarket ingredients.

...and once upon a dream, on thedistant isle of Manhattan, therelived seven beautiful, yet familiarfaces. Alice angelically found herway out of the rabbit hole hercuriosity had lead her to fall intohead first. Ariel basked in theglory and femininity of her new-foundlegs,whileherarchnemesisUrsula lurked in the shadows toassure she not receive a kiss fromher Prince Charming. Cinderellawaited hopefully alongside herkingdom’scastle,surethatsomedayher prince would come. SnowWhite’snaivetéleadherhelplesslyto theAppleStore,bound tomakeapoisonouspurchaseinawretchedrecession. Sleeping Beauty’s fairygodmothers, after much dispute,dressedherinpinkandfoundhera prince so charming he lent herhisjackettokeepherwarmonherway home. And, a strong-willedyet stunning Pocahontas helpedreign over her father’s tribe ontheir new campgrounds in CentralPark. All of a sudden, a dreamis not simply a wish your heartmakes when you’re fast asleep–in fact, it’s quite the contrary. Inthis present-day fantasy, dreamsand hopes come to life all acrossa city that never seems to sleep.

Once Upon a Modern Time...

FULL EDITORIAL

CuriouserandCuriouser…TopShop London top,H&Mwoolskirt.

Once Upon a Modern Time...

A mermaid’s tale; On this page:Shoshanna dress, Prada shoes,AmandaPearl clutch. Onoppo-site page: Catherine Malandrinodress,ChristianLouboutinboots,KennethJayLanebangles,ShellnecklacebyLisaK.Onbothpag-es:BCBGMaxAzriatulleskirts,HenriBendelNecklaces.

On opposite page: Bippity, Boppity, Boo!; Erin Fetherston dress, Rachel Leigh necklace, J.Crew bracelet. On this page: The fairest of them all; J.Crewtrenchcoat,Alice&Oliviadress,VeraWangnecklace,ChippElaneheadpiece,Chanelbag.

Dreamgirl;YvesSaintLaurentdress,VintageBrooksBrothersblazer,ChristianLouboutinshoes,Vintagenecklaces,KatieSchlossbracelets.

All the colors of the wind;BCBGRunway top,Forever21 furvest,AnikNewYorkleggings,Marnishoes.

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Most perfectly decorated and designed spaces are hometothoseincreativeindustries—architects,artists,designersandthelike.Theseartisticprofessionalschannelwhattheydobestintotheirnaturalhabitats,allowingformorecreativefluidity and risk-taking in their designs. When lookingoutside theboxforperfectlydesignedspaces,we found thiscontemporarycottageontheUpperWestSideofManhattanbuiltfromstarttofinishbyoneincrediblytalentedattorney,withhelpfromherhusband,whoworksinfinancialservices.Although theymaynotdesign fora living, their rustic yetmodern space is truly something to envy not only for itsfantastic style, but for all its architectural aspects. RhonaKischandDanielStamlerboughtthisspacewiththegoalofacompleteandutterrevampandrenovation.Theyknockeddownalmosteverywallintheapartment,keepingverysmallaspectsofthepriorowner’slayout,namelytwobrickcolumnswhichwereonlypiecesofwallsfromthepreviousspace.Whattheygotwasaperfecthomefortheirtwins,SamandNatasha,andazen,sophisticatedspaceforthewholefamilytoinhabit.

When asked about the inspiration behind her home’sdesign, Rhona said her children without hesitation. Sheexplained that they always hoped for a large communalinteriorthewholefamilycouldshareandenjoybutthatalsohadtheabilitytogiveeachofthemtheirownpersonalspace.ShetoldmeabouthowsheandDanielhadspentweekslivingin their children’s rooms when their master bedroom wasunderconstruction,anexperiencewhichsheexplainedgavethemtrueinsightonhowtheirhomewouldbeexperiencedbytheirchildren.“IlayinNatasha’sbedandthought, ‘howcouldyoubeakidandwakeuphereandnothaveitmakeyousohappy?�!’”Herchildren,shementioned,werealsothereasonbehind the home’sminimalist furnishings. Originally, sheplannedonfurnishingherentireopenlivingroomtoincludeaseatingareaandamoreformaldiningarea.“ThenDanielandIstarteddoingyoga,andwehadouryogateachercomingeachweektodoyogawithusinthelivingroom.Soon,thekidswantedtojoinin.Nowwedoyogaonceaweekasafamilyintheopenlivingroomspace.”Itseemsthecouplemanagedtoachievetheshared,familyspacetheyhadconceivedwhenmockingupblueprintswiththeirarchitect.

Rhona andDaniel’s unique and custompieces lead to adeepdiscussionofherfavoritehouseholditems.Iimmediately

noticed the flowers and complimentedher on the stunningarrangements. Rhona blushed, “They’re fake—it’s so tackyand embarrassing!” It was quite the contrary; in fact, thefloralswerefabulouslyfaux.Inordertocompensateforherhecticlifestyleandtoaddabitofrecessionchictothespace,RhonaheadedtotheplantdistrictinManhattan’smidtownand found herself some good fakes. The curtains, unliketheflowers,areseeminglyoneofakind—slitandmadeoflinen,cut-outsinthewindowtreatmentsevokethedesignofaprintratherthanbeingmadeofatwodimensionaltextile.Rhona’s mother, Gloria Kisch, created all the artwork intheir living room, i.e. thepaintingabove the fireplaceandthe metal columns. The ability Rhona has to incorporatepersonal touches intoherhomewithamazingartworkandpersonalized pieces is truly quite special.Hermother’s artadds sentimental value, uniqueness and creativity to thespace.WhenIaskedRhonawhereoneshouldhitinhopesoffindingfurnishingslikehers,shereplied,“Seriously?�Wow,Ineverthoughtofitassomethinganyonewouldwant!”Shesmiled, “Inever grewupbuying furniture, I grewupwiththeattitudeof ‘youwanta table?�Makea table!’”Thegreatmodern coffee table inher living room is a product ofherhardwork—sheorderedtheglass,andputtheresttogetherbyhand.ClearlyifRhonawasn’talreadysuchahigh-poweredlawyer,she’dhaveasuccessfulcareerininteriordesign.

coNTemPorary coTTaGeaftergrowinguponthewestcoast,thisattorneybroughthersmalltownrootstonewyorkcitytodesignahomeherentirefamilycouldenjoy

byCarrieGoldberg

coNTemPorary coTTaGe

thirty-one

Bottom Right: Daniel’s birthday giftfromRhonawasthisvintagewinedecant-erwhichsheboughtfromAliceKwalterAntiquesonParkAvenue.

Top Right: Indianinspired pillows are bothstylish and functional -the family uses them fortheirweeklyyogasession.

Middle: Adding international touches fromchildhoodtoheradulthome,Rhonaborrowedthispiecefromhermother,whopurchaseditfromanAfricantribe.

thirty-two

a NeWly DemocraTic arT WorlDbyKatieSuarez

Inthisdigitalage,arthasbecomeallthemoreaccessible.Nolongerisartse-questeredtotheelite,artisticandultra-posh.Today,anyonecanviewaworkofartbysimplyloggingontotheInternet.Webandgraphicdesignareimpossibletomissandbecomingmoreadvancedanduniquebytheday.

Concerthallsandmuseumsarenottheonlyplaceswhereonecanexperienceart;artistsarenowbecomingestablishedwiththepushofabuttononblogsandotherartsites.Whetherthisowesthankstowebdesign,thecreationofvarioustypesofvideo-artonYouTubeorpostingone’smusiconMySpace,thereisadefi-nitedemocraticrevolutiontakingplaceintheartworld.ArtcriticsaresimilarlybeingcreatednotonlyonblogsandonTwitter,butinthecommentsectionin-cludedonpracticallyeverywebsite.

Onlinepublicationsandblogshelptoshedlightonfantasticandunknownpho-tographers,artists,designersandstylists.Blogger,ScottSchumann,alsoknownasTheSartorialist,bringsdaringstreetstyleandhighfashionphotographytothepubliconhiswebsite.Designblog,dezeen.com,featuresavant-gardeinternationalart,interiordesign,productdesignandarchitecture.

However, one does not have to visit a specific art-inspired blog or websitetoviewexceptionalwebandgraphicdesign.Practicallyanywebsite is stylizedthankstotypography,backgrounddesignandsideadvertisementsworkingasaconstant,althoughsubconscious,exposuretotheartworld.Throughthisconstantstream of inspiration, people are not only becomingmore informed, butmorecreativeandartistic.Inthisnewlydemocraticartworld,thequestionofwhatcanbeconsideredartevaporates;artistswhoutilizeconventionalmediahavefoundthewebtobeaprimelocationforshowcasingtheirwork,whileotherartistshaveemerged,usingdigitaltoolsastheirmedium.