Garret Turbo Setup

7/29/2019 Garret Turbo Setup

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Changing to a bigger turbocharger

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The T3/T4 hybrid turbocharger.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Overview: So you want to add a bigger turbo?As most 22R-TE owners now, or at least instinctively realize, the CT20 turbo that comes stoc

on the 22R-TE is pretty limited: it has a lot of lag and it doesn't ma e a lot of power. It's also EXTREMELY expensive to replace (around US$2500for a new unit; ~US$1000 for a rebuilt unit). Since there are many better turbochargers out there, this is one of those upgrades that seems to ma e a whole lotof sense for both cost and performance.

It's not for the faint of heart, however, as changing the turbo has significantripple effects. Your exhaust and fuel system must be up to the increased load, and, if you're planning on running more than about 6 psi, you will need an intercooler. Note, too, that this is not a wee end project.: There's no it for this upgrade, and while there aren't *too* many parts that have to be custom made or m

odified, your ride will be down for several days, minimum. Where possible, Ill give you the part numbers for adapters and fittings...but there were a few placeswhere I just got luc y, especially with some jun yard items, so you'll have to be ready to improvise to get all the little pieces you'll need

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Getting the turboLuc ily, there are plenty of better turbos out there. The one I went with is a Garrett T3/T4 hybrid, which is a perfect size for a 22R-TE that's not in a dedicated race vehicle.

The T3/T4 turbo is called a hybrid because it has the turbine housing of a Garrett T3, (the same turbo used on the 2.3L turbo Ford Mustangs), and the compressorhousing of a Garrett T4. This combination of parts allows the T3/T4 to spool upquic

ly and while pumping a larger volume of air than a straight T3.

New T3/T4 turbos cost around US$700. I got mine used for $400, including the adapter to mount it to the stoc exhaust manifold (more about that in a minute). Ifyou can't lay your hands on one, or simply want to do this as cheaply as possible, search out a used T3 from a wrec ed Mustang. You can find em cheap -- often for less than $200 -- and they are good units, easily capable of outperforming the CT20.

Another option:If you want the increase jn power but don't feel li

e putting all of the piecestogether yourself, there is another option. The Turbo Engineering Corporation ma es a Garrett turbo conversion it for the 22RTE. The it includes a bigger turbo, downpipe, and other necessary hoses and pipes. David Rees, from the Old Celica Club mailing list, has been

ind enough to post a scanned copy of a Turbo magazine article describing the upgrade, with pictures and performance results. If you're into older Celicas, you might want to chec out his Celica page.



You can request more information from TEC's Michael Fran e at mfran [email protected], but I haven't found the email response to be all that speedy. A better bet would be to call them at 1-800-950-8872. As for Jason, who owns a modified 22RTE truc and seems pretty happy to describe the benefits of their upgrade.

If I had found these guys before I started my own project, I might have used their it instead.

Mounting the new turbo to the stoc exhaust manifold*News Flash (10/15/99)* L.C. Engineering is finally distributing the turbo header they've been developing since early 1999. I recently purchased one, and will post some more info on it as soon as I get it installed. Initial impressions: good design, so-so execution (some very sloppy welding), steep price ($895, plus cost of external wastegate).More details to follow...In order to mount a different turbo to the stoc manifold, you are going to needan adapter plate. I didn't ma

e the adapter plate I'm using; it was made by theguy I bought my turbo from. However, before I installed the turbo I too some measurements, listed below, so you could have one made by a fabricator or a machine shop (or ma e it yourself, if you have access to the appropriate tools).

A word of warning about these measurements: I've tried to be as accurate as possible, but this is the sort of piece that requires that you have the manifold AND

the turbo at hand. I thin

my measurements are a good place to start, but you should double-chec

them against the actual parts. Also, pay attention to the thic ness of the adapter plate, as there may not be a lot of room between the wastage's vacuum actuator diaphragm and the rod that connects the steering wheel to the steering gear box.

Adapter plate info

TIP: Ford ma es a very good Garret T-3 turbo-to-exhaust manifold gas et, p/n E3ZZ-9450-A, intended for 1986 Ford Mustang SVOs (and maybe other years). Cost: a whopping $6.74 from the local Ford fol s.

The wastegateAs you probably now, wastegates come in two flavors: internal/integral and external. I don't have any experience with external wastegates, although I hear theyare generally more accurate and more capable.

The stoc CT20 uses an internal wastegate, controlled by a vacuum actuator. It would be great if this unit bolted to the T3/T4 housing, but it doesn't -- majormodifications would be necessary, and you most li ely wouldn't be able to use the unit again on the CT20 if you needed to.

There are a lot of Garrett turbos out there, however, so a trip to a good Pic

-Your-Part jun yard should allow you to piece something together. In my case, I found a jun

yard in Hayward, California, that literally had a BIN of used turbos.I pic ed through it and scavenged some different vacuum actuators, brac ets, andmiscellaneous small parts. For $15, I got two vacuum actuators, two brac ets, two pushrods, and a generous handful of bolts, fittings, etc.

Note: If you decide to get a *turbo* from such a bin, ma e sure it spins freelyand has no appearance of rust. These things spin at over 100,000 rpm, so any flaw in impeller material or bearing will reveal itself dramatically. Remember that



there are certainly places to save money in a project li e this, but the turbocharger itself is probably not one of them.

Be prepared to modify whatever you find to get it to fit your turbo. My actuatormounting brac et needed to be reversed and machined to accept the vacuum actuator I ended up using. I also needed to cut down the actuator's pushrod so it reached the wastegates arm at the right length. The right length means that the wastegate should be tightly shut when the actuator is in it's relaxed position. Ta

e thetime to get this distance as close to perfect as you can manage, because a loosewastegate will never allow you to build any power.

Finally, be aware that there won't be a lot of clearance between the vacuum actuator's mounting brac et and the rod that connects the steering wheel to the steering gear box. When I bolted it all together I found that I had to trim another1/2 inch off my mounting brac et to get things to clear; in fact, I had to install the brac

et and actuator AFTER I bolted the exhaust manifold to the head, asthere wasn't enough room to maneuver everything into place when it was fully assembled. Just something to

eep in mind...

The bearing water jac

et lines

These are pretty straightforward. I used some 3/8 inch hose barbs on 3/8 inch tapered threads, and a couple of standard brass 90 and 45 degree fittings to bringthings out to the angles that I wanted. No surprises here, but be sure to use either Teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads.

The oil feed lineThis is pretty straightforward, too, with one caveat: the stoc turbo uses a banjo bolt with a thread pitch of 10MM X 1.25MM. This is NOT a common size, but Earl's ma es exactly one fitting that's a match: a carb fitting that has this 10MM

X 1.25 MM pipe thread on one side and a standard -6 A/N fitting on the other, with a crush washer (!) in between. (It would be great if I had the part number for you, but I can't find it -- sorry.) The oil feed fitting on most of the Garrett turbos is a female 1/8 tapered pipe thread hole; on mine, there was a 90 degree1/8 to -4 A/N fitting installed, so I just needed a reducer to go from the -6 atthe fitting on the bloc to the -4 at the turbo. It's important not to oversizethese fittings, as you don't want to flood the turbo bearing (more on this below).

Also, remember that if you plumb this using braided steel line (which you should) this line will eat through anything it rubs against. Consequently, this line should be the correct length and shouldn't rest against anything, including the turbo housing.

The oil return lineEvery project has its crux: the difficult spot that must be overcome for the project to succeed. If you can't solve the crux, you must turn bac

. For me, the oil return line was just such an obstacle.

Here's the most important thing to now about turbo oil return lines: unli e the



feed line, which is pressurized, the oil return line relies on gravity to get the oil bac

into the oil pan after it has bathed the turbo bearing. If oil doesn't drain bac quic ly enough it swamps the bearing, and can wor its way past the turbos seals. This leads to oil contaminating the inta e tract, oil co ing, andultimately seal failure. Ideally, the oil return line should be a straight shotbac

into the oil return boss in the bloc

(or pan, if this is not an OEM turbosetup).

Turbonetics ma es an aluminum oil return fitting that fits both the T3/T4 (and probably other Garrett oil return openings) AND the Toyota bloc

. It's Turbonetics part number PN 20259, and is available in 1/2 inch NPT (or PN 20382 for 3/8 inch NPT). You can get this from Performance Techniques -- follow the lin

to Installation Accessories. (A word about Performance Techniques: they have a lot of useful stuff, including new turbos, intercoolers, hose connectors, etc., but theyONLY ship COD -- and they ONLY ta e cash (personal chec s not accepted). I've never had a problem with them, but I'm used to businesses that ta

e credit cards...but I digress.) I pic ed up two of these, one for each end of the return line.Unfortunately, I had a hell of a time plumbing the gap between them; it was just too close. Too close to use braided steel hose and too close to use hard lineand flared fittings. After hours (no exaggeration) of staring at it, I finally came up with a combination of Earl's fittings and brass plumbing fittings that spanned the gap. The drain angle is a less than ideal, but it was the best I coulddo. This is definitely a case where access to narrow radius tubing bender and aTIG welder would be very, very helpful. (And some day soon there will be a pict

ure here to compliment this description.)

The down pipe and O2 sensorI had my truc towed to a local muffler shop to have the down pipe bent up. I'mnot thrilled with the job the guy did, but it's serviceable for now. I may havethis piece redone by the guy who did the rest of my exhaust; he does outstandingwor , but towing to his shop would have been prohibitively expensive.

As for the O2 sensor, be aware that the stoc location is in the turbo housing;

you'll need to have a fitting welded in to your new down pipe. This might be a good time to convert to a heated three wire sensor: they're cheaper ($60 vs. $130) and allow you to use industry standard weld bungs. Id had another O2 sensor installed when I added my Halmeter Air/Fuel Meter, so I just tapped into its signalwire.

Other odds and ends before initial startup Remember to fill the turbo with a little bit of oil (inserted manually via the oil feed line) before you tighten the lines fittings. 10cc - 20cc is about right.This coats the bearing at initial startup.

The T3/T4 is both a little noisier and a little hotter than stoc . Retain as much of the factory heat shield as you can.

For anything more than about 10 psi you're going to need an intercooler, even ifyou didn't need one with the stoc CT20.



Driving impressionsThe T3/T4 moves a lot more air than the CT20, and it spools up much more quic

ly, too. As I said above, it's noisier and a little hotter, so it's important to ma e sure your cooling system is up to snuff - I'm still eeping an eye on mine,and despite some initial fears it seems to be doing a good job.

Power and responsiveness have increased throughout the engine's range. I'm currently running a bit more boost than I did before (15 psi vs. 13 psi) and I may run even more -- perhaps 17 psi . I have yet to detect any detonation, and the bigger injectors (I installed RC Engineering 320 cc/min Lucas style injectors) areeasily eeping up with things so far.

About the only area that I find lac ing is the fuel mapping table of the stoc ECU. I've been having a difficult time getting the air/fuel ratio dialed in correctly, something Ill cover in more detail in the article on the bigger injectors.Suffice it to say: if I can solve the air/fuel ratio problem, I should see another 15 hp or so, as I thin I'm easily losing that much to a sloppy mixture.

The bottom line: this is a very good swap. This is an engine that responds wellto a bigger turbocharger, and the T3/T4 fills that role very nicely.

******

Added note: it is now November, and I've had the truc

on the road with the new

setup since early August. The T3/T4

ic

s ass! I still don't have the fuel tableproblem sorted out to my satisfaction, but I'm not lac

ing for power. My enginema es 175 - 185 hp, by my estimate -- numbers I hope to bac up with dyno timein the future -- and I'm really happy with the way it runs.

My above fears about added heat and noise seem a little overstated. I'm still running the stoc fan/fan clutch, and the engine isn't running any hotter than itwas before. Some of my initial impressions were made before I had reinstalled the stoc heat shields, and I was surprised to discover what a difference they made when I put them bac on. As for the noise, well, it's more li e the sound of performance -- a feature, not a bug.

Garret Turbo Setup

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