Value. Plan. Conserve.

Garden Watersaver

"The looming water crisis is one of the most critical challenges facing the world today.

Without better management of water resources and related ecosystems, two thirds

of humanity will suffer from severe or moderate shortages by the year 2025."

Director-General UNESCO World Water Day 2002

Garden Watersaver contents

Introduction 01

1 Planning and Design 02

Example 1 - Lifestyle Garden 06

2 Soil and Drainage 08

Example 2 - Courtyard Garden 10

3 Choosing Plants/ Planting 12

4 Mulch 16

5 Lawns 17

6 Watering the Sensible Way 18

Example 3 - Suburban Garden 20

Example 4 - Oriental Garden 22

7 Types of Watersaver gardens 24

8 Additional Watersaver Techniques 25

Example 5 - Large Garden 26

Appendix 1 - Watersaver Plant Guide 28

Appendix 2 - Watersaver Product Guide 30

Contacts and Acknowledgements 31

INTRODUCTION

Water is a precious resource. It is also a vital part of our Gold Coast lifestyle. We must therefore work together to conserve water where we can.

One place where we can save water is in our gardens. By simply implementing water saving techniques like mulching and choosing plants that suit our climate, we will reduce the amount of water needed by our gardens.

THE DRY FACTSAustralia is the driest inhabited continent on earth.

According to the Bureau of Meteorology, Australia has an annual rainfall averaging only 470mm. Putting this in perspective, the global average annual rainfall is 1,050mm (World Meteorological Organisation).

The dryness of our land is further enhanced by high evapotranspiration rates, which is the combination of water lost through evaporation and transpiration from plants. As a result, there are low amounts of runoff into streams and rivers (11% of average rainfall) and low replenishment of groundwater (1% of average rainfall).

Australia represents approximately 5% of the world's land area yet we only have 1% of the global river runoff. We must therefore be even more careful to use water sparingly.

THE BETTER WAY TO GARDENTraditional English gardens struggle in our subtropical climate, where Australian natives survive, as do species from places with similar climates.

So even though we live in the dry land, Watersaver gardens can survive on what Mother Nature delivers.

THE GARDENING GUIDEWatersaver gardening is exciting, challenging and sustainable.

The inspiring stories of Gold Coast gardeners in this guide reflect creativity, imagination, individual style and practical advice with stunning results.

The spectacular photos are living proof that Watersaver gardening works.

So let's change forever the way we look at water and see how green our gardens grow!

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1 PLANNING&DESIGN

Tip Combine the ideas and needs of everyone in the household as the base for the design.

The secret to great gardens is planning. If the design is right, our gardens will look good even without much water.

When not starting from scratch, small changes such as regrouping existing plants or replacing some lawn with pebbles or permeable paving, can cut water use.

Permeable paving is designed to allow water to infiltrate into the ground as shown opposite.

LIFESTYLEOur gardens mirror our lifestyles so it's important to create something that fits. Whether a large block or courtyard, the style will depend on your time, budget and lifestyle.

These factors and the style of home will determine whether permeable paved areas, a veggie patch, natives, succulents or water tolerant perennials and annuals, become a part of our garden 'rooms'.

LIFESTYLE FACTORS TO CONSIDER: Time for gardening Landscaping budget Outdoor entertainment Play room for children or pets Style of home Storage and utility area for drying clothes

PROPERTY CHARACTERISTICSWhen designing, consider property characteristics such as the position of the sun in summer and winter, areas prone to wind and rain, flat or sloping land, the best views, entertaining areas and the type of soil.

The garden microclimate or environment is affected by rainfall, temperature, light, heat, shade, humidity, wind, slope, nearby structures and groundcovers.

Areas under eaves may be hot and dry, or cool and dry. Garden beds near paving are warmer than those near the lawn or in the open. Large trees provide their own shady microclimate. A wall facing the sun provides a warm microclimate for subtropical plants and an area in full shade behind a stone or brick wall will be cooler.

Understand and use the microclimates to plant a water efficient garden by matching plants to their preferred conditions.

Southern areas in Gold Coast gardens tend to be shady, cold and less exposed, whereas north and westerly aspects can be hot and exposed to dry winds in summer. Consider coastal winds which carry salt and strong winds, which can damage and stunt growth.

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Pictures: A. An example of Watersaver permeable paving design which allows water to soak into the ground.

3A.

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Lawns guzzle water, particularly in summer.

1 PLANNING&DESIGN (cont.)

GENERAL GARDEN DESIGN PRINCIPLES

MINIMISE LAWNLawns guzzle water, particularly in summer. Alternatives include pebbles and permeable paving, softened with suitable groundcovers between stones and around edges (eg mondo grass).

Artificial grass or pinebark mulch is safe, a Watersaver and a great alternative under children's playgrounds.

CHOOSE WATERSAVER PLANTS

POSITION & PLANT CORRECTLY Moderately dense, consolidated and well mulched planting is more water efficient than sparse, scattered planting.

Group plants in watering zones or according to their water needs.

Dense planting of a few varieties can be more striking than a mix of many varieties.

Think microclimate - thirsty plants do better in cooler areas at the bottom of slopes or along the edges of natural watercourses and drains.

Wider garden beds make watering easier and reduce runoff.

Establish a low or no watering zone in the utility area.

CONSIDER ALTERNATIVES TO PLANTINGCreate more permeable paved and mulched areas without increasing hot spots.

Gravel allows rain to seep into soil and nearby plant roots.

Impermeable paved areas which don't allow water to soak into the ground, are easy to maintain but create runoff when it rains. Design paths to direct runoff to the garden beds.

Avoid impermeable paving which leads water directly to stormwater drains.

Dark paving and walls absorb more heat than lighter coloured ones.

CREATE SHADE & SHELTERWindbreaks, pergolas, screens, lattice, shade cloth and vines shelter the house, outdoor living areas and plants.

Less heat, more shade and wind protection saves water.

Deciduous and evergreen trees create cool gardens in summer and warm ones in winter.

Tip Appraise gardens in winter when there are fewer flowers and less leaves on deciduous trees to distract from the "bones" of the garden.

Natives to south east Queensland.Other Australian natives and exotics suited to the Gold Coast climate.Plants suited to garden microclimates.

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Have a master plan.Consider 'rooms' to create interest and blend the indoor-outdoor lifestyle.Match the garden to the house - define garden spaces, create a focal point and blend colour and texture with plants. Create a balanced and harmonious space that is practical and reflects your personality.

COLIN & TONI NIXONEXAMPLE 1 - LIFESTYLE GARDEN

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SIZE 1.25 acres ESTABLISHED 2001 WATERING minimal (utilise water from biocycle) MAINTENANCE mulching, pruning PLANT LIST mixture of natives, fruit trees, citrus trees, succulents and hardy, drought tolerant flowering species

Colin and Toni Nixon planted their Tallai lifestyle garden in the middle of a drought, went overseas for several months and came back to thriving growth and colour.They were amazed the garden survived the harsh drought conditions, but it reinforced their choice of design and Watersaver planting.Their lifestyle garden, including a courtyard and pool is a collection of 'rooms' - native, fruit, citrus, succulents and drought tolerant flowering species. It is simple, colourful and water efficient."We initially only had soil and rubble so had to build it up from there," said Mrs Nixon."It was a bit of a horror story really. There was no grand plan as such."We planted in sections. We call them 'rooms' and we've used three types of ground cover, which retains the moisture in the soil and stops the weeds. We planted the ground cover first. This gave good coverage with no bare earth to dry out."The Nixons researched, read and chose plants to suit their lifestyle. While natives include a variety of banksias, grevillea, callistemon, silky oak and westringia, the non-native species include oleander, agapanthus, frangipani, cacti, wisteria, conifers, palms and succulents.Paw-paw, mango, fig and avocado trees line the fruit area and lime, lemon and mandarin trees adorn the citrus section."The natives look after themselves and we don't have to weed or water because of the groundcover. In fact, during the drought we haven't had to water the whole back section.

"We can't believe it. Two years in a drought and we were away for months."Mulching saves and holds moisture. Simply, it does what nature does. Plants such as the agapanthus hold the soil together and after they flower I just 'dead-head' them. The frangipanis, you just stick in the ground. The cacti garden, you can do some ornamental things with and because we are on rubble the drainage is good for plants that don't like wet feet."She said the garden is still developing."You have to think about what you put in. I find that small plants adapt much better than planting mature plants."Minimal water use. That's what we've tried to achieve."The Nixons tap into the water from their biocycle (mini treatment plant), mulch and prune when necessary and build on their 'rooms' slowly.Many of their ideas were created from the varied styles they came across on their travels."In an area like this where there is so much development, water tanks should be incorporated into the building. There are ways of building water tanks into the house without detracting from the design so this water can be used in the garden," she said.

Colin and Toni's top tips to gardening include:

Be knowledgeable - get a good gardening book and learn about plants.Choose your plants from within that knowledge and not just because they have pretty flowers.

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"Minimal water use. That's what we've tried to achieve."

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2 SOIL&DRAINAGE

Types of soils:A. ClayB. Loamy

Rich soil and water are the lifeblood of gardens, especially in dry conditions.

Plants in fertile soil, full of nutrients, organic matter, microorganisms, soil structure and texture, survive on less water.

SOIL TYPESThe three main garden soils are clay-based, loamy or sandy. They vary in texture and how much water they can retain. The soil types in different parts of the garden may also vary.

SIMPLE SOIL TEST

SOIL PREPARATIONBoost soil health and nourish microorganisms by adding organic matter. Leaf mould, manure or compost help retain moisture and nutrients. That means using less water and fertilisers, particularly during dry spells.

As most plants feed in the top 15-20 cm of soil, enhance this level with organics.

A combination of gypsum, sand and composted organic matter produce the best results in clay soils.

DRAINAGE

Good drainage will ensure puddles and flooding do not result from landscaping.

On steep slopes and banks, use mulch mats to secure plants until they take hold. It's cheap and easy. Rocks and retaining walls help hold water in upper garden beds and raised garden beds create better drainage. Suckering and tufted groundcovers are also hardy stabilisers.

Naturally sandy soils drain quickly, while clay soils can become damp and muddy giving drought tolerant plants wet feet. Some underground drainage may be needed for slow draining soil high in clay, especially on flat land, where water could pool.

Consult a licensed plumber for drainage work.

SOIL IMPROVEMENT/MAINTENANCEIf the garden is bone dry beneath the surface just after watering or rain, chances are the soil is sandy and has become hydrophobic or water repellent.

Wetting agents will increase moisture take up. Water crystals swell to absorb moisture and act as a reservoir, while water cells have exceptional water holding qualities. For a full list of Watersaver products see Appendix 2.

SOIL pHPH is the acidity or alkalinity of soil, a value between 1 (acidic) and 14 (alkaline), and should be checked with a pH tester. Most plants grow best in neutral soil - not too acidic or alkaline (pH level about 7). Rather than changing the soil pH, because it will always revert to the original level, select suitable plants. Lime helps break down organic matter in acidic or sour soils.

Tip Mix organics with soil when planting to encourage the spread of roots. Otherwise they may grow only in the good soil and become root bound.

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Take a handful of soil and add enough water to mould into a ball.Sandy - crumbles, is light coloured, has little or no smell, is low in nutrients and drains quickly.Loamy - forms a crumbly ball, is usually brown, has an earthy smell, adequate nutrients and drains well.Clay - balls easily, ranges from white to red or dark brown, is high in nutrients, but becomes hard and resistant to water when dry.

A. B.

EXAMPLE 2 - COURTYARD GARDEN TED & YVONNE HANIFIN

SIZE courtyard garden in small unit block ESTABLISHED in 1996, ever changing to suit climate WATERING minimal MAINTENANCE mulching, pruning, replanting to utilise drought resistant species PLANT LIST predominantly succulents with a mixture of natives, citrus trees and drought tolerant flowering species.

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Yvonne Hanifin has always loved gardens and gardening.

Her enthusiasm and artistic streak are evident in her small courtyard garden's design and her choice of plants. Garden beds, rockeries and paths are rounded and sweeping, leading to focal points.

On the outset of Gold Coast's worst drought on record, Yvonne minimised her lawn areas and cut out a tree that used too much water.

"We've done everything ourselves in the garden. There is nothing here that was here when we came. We took everything out," says Yvonne.

"What I'm doing now is going in for a lot of succulents because they don't require much water.

"People have said that my artistic background can be seen in how I plan and plant. I try to be original. I like breaking the line by using rounded and sweeping areas. I never have straight lines, they jar you."

Her garden is a mixture of shrubs, trees, bougainvilleas, succulents, natives, citrus trees, potted plants and beautiful miniature topiaries. Planning included research on what should be in the sun or shade.

"I read a lot and go to the nurseries to pick their brains. It's a combination of trial and error and the right advice.

"Gardening has been a hobby all my life. Sometimes I can be out here half a day. I only spend the time because it suits me."

Yvonne varies the types of mulches she uses, selecting stones or gravel for some garden beds and also varying her choice of natural fertilisers. She has painted her garden ornaments and mixes her own organic sprays which include chillies, cooking oils and water.

"Above all, I must have a good garden view out of every window or glass door. It's like another room, but it's outside and like you change the furniture inside, I like to change the garden outside."

Yvonne's main tips for a healthy Watersaver garden include:

Read, ask for advice and don't be afraid to experiment.

Mulch - her favourite is sugar cane mulch.

Fertilise the lawn with an organic product before heavy rains.

Use water crystals or wetting agents.

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Watersaver plants include agave, agapanthus, bouganvillea, yucca and banksia. 3 CHOOSINGPLANTS/PLANTING

Plant selection is a personal preference. Luckily the choices of Watersaver plants to suit your garden, lifestyle and property are many and diverse.

Watersaver plants include agave, agapanthus, bouganvillea, yucca and banksia.

Plants from other countries with similar climates such as South Africa, Mexico and California, are also drought tolerant. They include groundcovers, climbers and shrubs of varying sizes and foliage colour.

So much to choose from - but don't despair -the local garden centre, horticulturalist or landscape designer can give you detailed advice.

WHAT MAKES PLANTS WATER EFFICIENT?Characteristics of water efficient plants include: Deep root systems Thick fleshy leaves Grey, silvery leaves Shiny or waxy coatings on leaves Hairy or felty foliage (select carefully as not all are suited to Gold Coast's climate) Small leaves which reduce evaporation

GENERAL RULESWhether native or exotic, choose plants for the:

The most water efficient plants need occasional watering over summer and, depending on the weather, will survive solely on rainfall.

Refer to Appendix 1 for a list of Watersaver plants.

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Climate Garden locationGarden microclimates Soil type - improve soil with organics and check the pH levelGarden topographyLifestyle

3 CHOOSINGPLANTS/PLANTING (cont.)

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PLANT TYPESAnnuals have short life spans, usually less than a year, and need lots of water.

Perennials live more than a year and are the best option for gardeners with little time as they need less water and maintenance compared to annuals.

POT PLANTS / HANGING BASKETSPot plants have less soil to grow in and hold less water between drinks so avoid porous pots such as terracotta unless they are sealed and waterproofed.

Glazed and plastic pots work best. Water crystals and wetting agents help to retain water longer in the potting mix.

See Appendix 2 for a list of Watersaver products.

THREATENED, RARE & ENDANGERED SPECIESThe Gold Coast is a city of rich biodiversity and planting threatened, rare or endangered species will contribute to local and global conservation.

For more information on selection, planting and care, contact specialist nurseries.

ENVIRONMENTAL WEEDSEnvironmental weeds are introduced plants that out compete local native plants.

In gardens they dominate water and soil nutrients to the detriment of other plants and, in the bush, they threaten entire ecosystems. Don't let gardens be breeding grounds for invasive environmental pests.

Further information on environmental weeds can be found on the Department of Natural Resources and Mines website: www.nrm.qld.gov.au.

WATER ZONINGWater zoning is vital for Watersaver gardening.

Group plants according to their water needs to maximise water efficiency - garden beds with water guzzlers amid hardy plants, are not water efficient.

Ultimately, choose plants with medium to low water needs. If thirsty plants are included, place them in shady, wind-sheltered, flat areas for the most Watersaver benefits.

PLANTING TECHNIQUESEnsure new plants are Watersavers. Where possible, plant between late summer and mid autumn to establish roots before the dry winter.

Dig the right hole - at least 3 times the diameter of the pot and roughen the edges. The hole should not be deeper than the pot. The soil below can be loosened but don't dig it out.

Fertilise - Don't add fertiliser into the bottom of the hole. Fertilise on the surface and around the plant base after roots are established.

Take care transplanting - Keep pots out of the hot sun before planting. Handle the new roots with care to avoid damage.

Fill the hole carefully - Press the soil lightly around the new plant. Mulch the surface away from the plant trunk.

Water correctly - Water new plants in. Regular, deep watering during the first season will establish roots and promote drought tolerance in future seasons.

Adding seaweed solution encourages root growth and water efficiency more quickly.

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Dig the right hole - at least 3 times the diameter of the pot and roughen the edges.

4 MULCH

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Tip Don't use black plastic as mulch. It doesn't breathe or drain water.

Mulch is the magic ingredient in Watersaver gardens. It reduces evaporation by 70%, helps conserve water, limits weed growth and, when mixed with organic materials, encourages earthworms and microorganisms for a healthy garden.

Mulch is any material that acts as an insulator between the sun and soil. It reduces runoff and protects root systems from rapid temperature changes by keeping the soil cool. Ideally it consists of large, irregularly shaped particles that allow water to run through to the soil.

HOW TO MULCHBefore mulching, weed and break up the soil then water the area well to ensure the mulch traps the moisture.

Spread a mulch layer 50-100mm thick over the planted area.

Leave a breathing space of 50mm around stems and trunks or it may cause fungal rot and kill the plant.

Raking or turning the mulch may damage fine feeder roots.

Some mulch that hasn't been composted can cause short term nitrogen loss from the soil, so put nitrogen back with blood and bone.

Apply mulch before the dry season, that is, winter. Reapply organic mulch at least once a year.

TYPES OF MULCHOrganic mulches include pine bark mulch, bark chips, compost, leaf mould, lawn clippings, pea straw, stable straw, lucerne, sugar cane, seaweed, mushroom compost, hay, feathers, eucalyptus mulch, manure and paper.

Some water absorbing mulches such as paper, straw and uncomposted lawn clippings can become water repellent if not dried out before use.

Pine bark or wood chips are not suitable for vegetable patches as these mulches should not be dug into the soil.

Inorganic mulches include gravel, crushed rock, crushed brick, river pebbles, broken glass, weed mat and marble chips.

They are great for desert and dry land plants that don't like the humidity generated by organic mulches.

Aggregate materials are an environmentally friendly choice because river pebbles are a scarce natural resource.

Living mulches include low growing, water efficient, dense groundcovers, such as grevilleas that won't overcompete with the rest of the garden.

5 LAWNSWe love our lawns - they're an Aussie tradition. Ideally though, our lawn areas should be kept to a minimum or even replaced entirely with groundcovers, pebbles and permeable paving. Just think - no mowing!

Replacing the lawn with a garden will reduce traffic noise, increase privacy, add interest and create a living fence.

Permeable paving is practical for utility areas, under washing lines and for entertaining areas.

MUST DO LAWN TIPS

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Choose a drought resistant grass such as 'Sir Walter'.

Keep lawns level for increased absorption and minimal runoff.

Keep lawns at least 4cm long to shade the roots and retain moisture - less mowing.

Fertilise during downpours.

Mow early or late in the day and keep mower blades sharp to reduce lawn stress.

Never cut off more than 1/3 of the leaf blade.

Aerate the lawn and compacted soil with a pitchfork or aerating sandals.

Brown grass lives - it is dormant and will regenerate with rain.

Brown grass lives - it is dormant and will regenerate with rain.

6 WATERINGTHESENSIBLEWAY

Pictures: A & B. Adding Watersaver products to the soil increases water efficiency.

C. The root irrigator.

Gardens appreciate every precious drop of sensible watering, that is, one good drink a week or less. Sensible watering promotes stronger and deeper root growth making the plant more resilient to dry times.

Thorough watering, less often, trains plants to be Watersavers because their roots search deep in the soil. Less water, more often, creates shallow roots and exposure to sun, heat and burning.

Water crystals are ideal for pot plants and around less hardy garden plants. They swell when watered to provide a reservoir in the soil to retain water.

HOW TO WATERWater the soil around the plant root zone only - watering between plants is a waste and encourages weeds. Water on plant foliage evaporates.

A Root Irrigator is ideal because its probe delivers water straight to the root system. A Trigger Wand, fitted with a flow control nozzle, targets water to the base of the plant.

Use a soft spray at a low flow rate to avoid runoff.

HOW MUCH TO WATERGenerally speaking, plants only need a standard drink of 10mm, depending on soil types and conditions. This is enough to soak 15-20cm into the feeder root zone. Anything more is wasted.

Newly established plants may need more water until they are established. However, correct plant selection, positioning, mulching and composting will conserve water.

More plants die from over watering than under watering. Too much water can also create excessive plant growth, requiring more pruning, trimming and weeding.

WHEN TO WATERAn early morning or late afternoon/evening soak once a week, or less, is enough and minimises evaporation.

After rain, soil may retain water. To check, conduct a soil moisture test with your finger by pushing it a few centimetres into the soil. If cool and grainy, it doesn't need water.

Most native plants are adapted to survive on the Gold Coast's rainfall and do not need added water.

See Appendix 2 for the Watersaver product list.

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Tip Soil moisture testers indicate the level of moisture in the soil so you know when to water.

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B.

C.

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"I pick plants that are native."

ROBERT CODDINGTONEXAMPLE 3 - SUBURBAN GARDEN

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SIZE sustainable suburban backyard ESTABLISHED eight years old WATERING minimal, uses a water probe MAINTENANCE two hours per week, mulching, pruning PLANT LIST only natives

When Robert Coddington bought his Ashmore home on a sloping suburban block from his father in 1994, the garden was a water reliant rainforest with staghorns, elkhorns and orchids.

Much to his father's horror, Robert chopped down, chain sawed and mulched the lot.

He was on a mission to design and develop a low maintenance, sustainable and Watersaver native garden - something he says most Gold Coasters can achieve.

"Dad had won the Gold Coast Garden Competition seven years running before I bought this (his) house. The garden was basically a rainforest," says Robert.

"Over two weekends I hired a chain saw, cut everything down and got a tree lopping company over and ran it all through their mulcher... nothing is wasted in this garden."

Robert transformed the downward sloping backyard into tiers so that water can naturally drain from the top to the bottom of the garden. Plants needing the least water have been planted high and those needing the most at the bottom.

Plants have been carefully chosen for productivity, the environment and to minimise water consumption.

The lawn has been done away with to create an efficient use of space, a peaceful, functional garden and a magnet for birds.

The garden includes 200 individual plants from 57 species, including 125 varieties of grevillea. Other species include native

hibiscus, gardenias, camellia, emu bushes and 20 native species on the rare and endangered list.

"I pick plants that are native. I buy everything I can in tubes, ‘pot them on’ and monitor the water intake so they are hardy and tough when placed in the ground.

"I only put two hours per week into maintaining the garden.

"We are descendants from English country gardeners and so tend to plant varieties that use too much water. We can't afford to do this. Australia is the driest inhabited continent on earth," he laments.

"I was born on the Gold Coast and my parents and family lived here. I recall as a child the daily summer thunderstorms but our weather is changing and therefore we must change our habits.

"I get personal enjoyment from my garden, it's a form of escapism," he says.

According to Robert anybody can be a gardener. Vital tools are patience, trial and error and learning from other people.

Robert's tips for a successful native Australian garden include:

Work out where the sun rises and sets.Source plants to suit the environment.Be patient. Don't try to do it in one hit - it'sa long term project so plan.Only water when your plants need it.Don't use chemicals as they can be harmfulto wildlife. Let nature take its course.

EXAMPLE 4 - ORIENTAL GARDEN BERNARD & JOAN HOLLAND

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SIZE 400 square metres block ESTABLISHED 2000 WATERING minimal MAINTENANCE 1 hour per week (10 minutes to mow) PLANT LIST a mixture of drought tolerant species

The Holland's garden contains oriental, Japanese, European, English and Australian sections complete with the related plants, carvings, features, furniture, lighting and music to set the scene and transport your senses.

Bernard and Joan built on their 400 metre square block in 2000.

"The garden comes out of nothing really, but the best secret of all is you have to have good organic garden soil," says Bernard.

His other secret is framing each section by creating features out of second hand materials such as timber, columns, brick, bamboo blinds, iron pieces out of railway sleepers, old louvers, tiles and fence palings used as backdrops for the separate scenes and to hide fences and the garden shed.

The plants range from agapanthus for impact, to mondo grass as border plants, bougainvilleas, bambinos, lilipillies and Australian grass trees.

"Water tolerant plants are vital for small gardens," says Bernard.

"I'm not a plant expert but we have tried to select drought tolerant plants. We chose the flowery varieties that don't take a lot of water.

"Mulching is always very important and I mulch at least twice a year. You don't have to be a fanatical gardener to make it work. Sometimes I pull things apart and start again after 12 months."

The two-tiered back garden has minimal lawn and includes winding paths, stones to

keep in moisture, planter boxes made from second hand bricks, and tiles in various complementing colours.

The front oriental garden is trimmed and pruned and features a bridge. A second bridge leads to the front door.

An old world charm garden, incorporating recycled timber doors and sculptures that scream authentic, takes up a narrow strip on one side of the house.

A manicured Japanese garden occupies half of the backyard and includes hand carved statues, lacquered bamboo blinds covering the traditional Aussie backyard fence, water features and timber benches constructed from second hand fence palings.

The garden shed cannot be picked with the naked eye. It has been covered and painted with a restful scene, with columns and other sculptures added to give the feel of being in Greece.

"What I want is time to enjoy my garden. I spend about one hour per week in the garden and it takes me just 10 minutes to mow it. It's practically maintenance free.

"Above all, if you've done a garden and down the track it's not what you want, you don't have to wear it. So what if you have to dig up a bit of concrete to change it. Just go for it."

Bernard's top tips include: Use organic garden soil for a good base. Plant according to sun and shade. Select drought tolerant plants. Mulch at least twice annually and prune.

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"Water tolerant plants are vital for small gardens."

7 TYPESOFWATERSAVERGARDENS

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Imagination, preparation and dedication blend to create vibrant and healthy Watersaver gardens. Once established, they are hardier and less work than gardens of thirsty flowering annuals.

NATIVESNative plants endemic to south east Queensland grow well, attract birds and support native wildlife.

There are varieties to suit sun and shade, sloping and level ground, coastal winds and different soils. They need less fertiliser, which helps protect our precious waterways and marine life from stormwater pollution.

However, when choosing native plants from other areas - the tropical north, arid inland or the cooler south - check whether they will tolerate the Gold Coast climate and soil types without additional water and work.

EXOTICSMany exotic plants, say from South Africa, central Americas and the Mediterranean, also do well on the Gold Coast.

Create a Mexican theme, a room of exotics, a

garden of succulents and cacti or combine exotics with Australian natives for a blend of cultures.

However, tread carefully as some exotic plants, like the common agapanthus, do so well here they could become weeds if not controlled. Plants with weed-like features should not be grown. See the environmental weed section on page 14.

Desert and sand dune plants which usually grow flat and spread, make good ground covers and great pot plants.

GARDEN ROOMSGarden rooms can be visually spectacular, Watersavers and created to suit microclimates.

For example, a Mexican style courtyard of succulents and cacti can set off an otherwise native garden. Contrasting pebbles and brightly decorated pots add impact. A subtropical or tropical garden may suit the shady southern side of the house, while an oriental style garden, with ornamentals and a water feature, may make a stunning, soothing entrance.

Even with a Watersaver garden, there are more ways to save water outdoors.

POOLS & SPAS

WATER FEATURES

OTHER WATER SAVING TIPS

8 ADDITIONALWATERSAVERTECHNIQUES

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Covers on pools and spas reduce evaporation drastically. With an average pool, around 66,000 litres of water can be saved each year.

Keep the pool water level halfway up the skimmer opening. Overfilling stops the skimmer working and wastes water.

Mark the pool water level on the skimmer and check it 24 hours later. It shouldn't lose more than 62 millimetres (1/4 inch) each day.

Proper pool maintenance alleviates draining and refilling.

Up to 50% of water in fountains evaporates on hot days, so choose a shady, sheltered spot.

Reduce evaporation by creating smaller features and/or using water plants.

Creating shallow, inaccessible water features, or larger ones within fenced areas, increases child safety.

Wash cars and boats on the lawn using environmentally friendly products - it also waters the lawn.

Fix leaking taps - inside and outside.

Sweep paved and tiled areas. Leaf blowers also work well.

To water or not to water - monitor the weather and/or moisture test the soil. If rain is predicted, don't water.

Fertilise the lawn in the rain.

Learn more about gardening through the local nursery or library.

Enjoy and observe seasonal changes to discover what works best.

If rain is predicted,don't water.

JOHN HORNSEYEXAMPLE 5 - LARGE GARDENSIZE native rainforest garden on 11 acres ESTABLISED 25 years old WATERING minimal MAINTENANCE mulching, pruning, weeding as needed PLANT LIST predominantly native rainforest species endemic to the McPherson Ranges, such as ashes, rosewoods, lilypilly, native grasses and groundcovers

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John Hornsey has dedicated 25 years to creating his sacred garden at Clagiraba - a peaceful native rainforest where many of the thousands of trees have been planted in memory of births, deaths and special occasions of family members, friends and pets.

In 1980, when he and his young family moved onto the 11 acre property, it was a cow paddock overgrown with lantana.

He single handedly cleared the land, designed and began planting his sacred native rainforest.

"When we arrived, there were hardly any trees, mainly lantana. I don't use heavy machinery or chainsaws. I cleared the lantana by hand. I'm quite patient," he says.

"I've gardened seven acres of the 11 acre block. I've planted thousands of trees.

"I spend three to four hours each day in my garden, mainly because I do things the old fashioned way. I carefully and individually hand water each plant. I ensure that I get to the very heart of the plant.

A creek cascades over a series of small waterfalls during heavy rain and there are four dams that, until Gold Coast's worst drought on record, had never run dry. The property is self sufficient, sustainable, productive, ecofriendly and water efficient.

"We are on tank water and we've only bought one load of water in the last five years. We just don't use much water and are very aware of its value," he said.

Trees include a magnificent 20 year old

Moreton Bay Fig, several species on the rare and endangered list, bunya pines, foam barks, lilypilly, ashes, rosewoods and black bean trees.

"I'm not sure how many species there are, but there are thousands of plants and almost entirely native rainforest species from this area. I buy from the local nurseries that specialise in native rainforest plants and there would not be many species that aren't endemic to the region.

"I've got the time and the passion. It's not everybody's thing and I like people to come around and have a look.

"In drought, trees do suffer and you suffer with them. During these times we have to readjust our expectations. Gardens can't look beautiful all the time and I am amazed at what nature can do.

"Unfortunately a lot of people on acreage blocks treat them as suburban blocks, which is what I did to start with. I used to walk a lot in the Lamington National Park and this is where I got a feel and a sense of what goes where. But there is no chance of creating a native garden without mulch."

John's tips for growing a native rainforest in a large garden include:

Don't rush in and plant - try to understand the land first.Plant native and try to source plants endemic to the region.Mulch heavily - he uses sugar cane mulch.Treat water preciously - pour it on carefully and sparingly to the heart of the plant.

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"We don't use much water and are very aware of its value."

APPENDIX 1 - WATERSAVERPLANTGUIDEPlant Category Name Description Soil Preferences Growing Conditions

common & botanical height/width/flower/foliage sandy/clay acidic/alkaline sun/shade/wind/salt

Groundcovers Myoporum sp.

Rhoe tradescantia / R. discolour/ R. spathacea (Moses in the basket)

Tetragonia tetragonoides (Warrigal spinach

Gazania rigens

Juniperus conferta (Shore juniper)

Grevillea 'Poorinda Royal Mantle'

Hibbertia scandens

Ponytail palm

Nerium oleander

Nandina nana (Dwarf sacred bamboo)

Metrosideros excelsa(N.Z. Christmas tree)

Cycas revoluta

Strelitzia reginae (Bird of Paradise)

Doryanthus palmeri & D. excelsa

Westringia(Coastal rosemary)

Grevillea hybrids

Callistemon (Bottlebrushes)

Native groundcovers grown mainly to produce a nice green natural carpet over the ground.

White flowers, purple foliage, grows to 50cm high, 50cm in diameter.

Succulent green leaves with small yellow flower.

Grows 30cm high spreading over 3m. Varieties with yellow, orange or pink flowers.

Grows 30cm high, spreading 2m.

Grows 30cm high, spreading 3m, red flowers.

Fast growing twiner with lush green leaves and starry yellow flowers.

Large robust swollen base with strap-like leaves. Up to 4m.

1-4m tall with lush green leaves with highly coloured flowers in spring and summer. All parts poisonous.

Grows to 60cm high and 60cm in diameter.

Large shrubs to small trees 2-5m high. Tough, hairy grey-green foliage. Clusters of red flowers in spring/summer.

Striking architectural plant with rosette foliage structure. Stiff, dark green fronds. Mostly less than 2m tall but up to 2m wide.

Grows to 1m high, spreading 1m. Striking blue / orange flower.

Structured plant with upright large strap-like leaves up to 2m tall. Flowers are borne on tall stalk up to 4m tall.

Bushy shrub with small leaves and bluish flowers.

Shrubs ranging from ground covers to very tall shrubs. Striking flowers that attract birds.

Extremely variable and attractive large shrubs to small trees.

Well drained, sandy soil preferred. Clay soils shorten lifespan of this plant.

Well drained, sandy soil preferred.

Sandy soil preferred.

Well drained, sandy soil preferred.

Well drained clay / sandy soil.

Well drained, sandy soil.

Sandy dunes preferred. Will adapt to other soils provided drainage is excellent.

Well drained. Adaptable to many soil types.

Adapted to all soil types.

Well drained clay / sandy soil.

Well drained clay / sandy soil required. Well suited to sandy coastal sites or deep hinterland soils.

Well drained soil essential. Adapted to sand, shale, loam soils.

Well drained clay / sandy soil.

Adapted to most soil types but not boggy soils.

Well drained soils.

Well drained soils required. Not suited to heavy clays.

Adapted to almost every soil condition on the Gold Coast and Hinterland.

Full sun to part shade. Tolerates wind and coastal salt.

Sun, wind and salt tolerant.

Ideal for coastal sandy gardens.

Sun, wind and salt tolerant.

Sun, wind and salt tolerant.

Sun and wind tolerant.

Full sun to part shade preferred.

Full sun to part shade. Wind tolerant.

Full sun to part shade. Will tolerate sea winds.

Grows in part sun / shade, tolerates wind.

Full sun preferred. Great plant for seaside gardens. Wind tolerant.

Grows in full sun and part shade. Tolerant of minor coastal spray.

Grows best in part sun / shade. Wind and salt tolerant.

Very hardy in all sites.

Ideal for coastal gardens. Best in full sun.

Best in full sun. Tolerates mild seabreezes.

Position in full sun for best flower display, but will tolerate part shade. Medium breeze tolerance.

Exotic Shrubs /Perennials

Native Shrubs /Perennials

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Plant Category Name Description Soil Preferences Growing Conditions common & botanical height/width/flower/foliage sandy/clay acidic/alkaline sun/shade/wind/salt

Climbers

Lomandra

Baeckea virgata

Banksia spinulosa (Hairpin Banksia)

Bougainvillea

Allamanda cathartica

Pyrostegia venusta (Orange Trumpet vine)

Pandora jasminoides

Trachelospermum jasminoides

Dipladenia sanderi

Brachychiton

Tabebuia (most species)

Lagerstroemia indica (Crepe Myrtle)

Cassia fistula (Golden Shower Tree)

Pandanus tectorius (Screw Pine)

Banksia integrifolia

Cupaniopsis anacardioides

Harpullia pendula

Magnolia grandiflora(Little Gem)

Buckinghamia celsissima(Ivory Curl Tree)

Tussock grass-like with strappy leaves. Flowers are small but some cultivars are scented.

Grows to 1.5m high, spreading 1.5m in diameter. Small white flowers.

Grows to 3m high and 2m in diameter. Bronze, bird attracting flowers.

Tough climbers with highly coloured floral bracts, but with spines. Various colour varieties.

Tropical climber with lush shiny green leaves and vibrant golden yellow flowers.

Vigourous climber with hanging orange flowers.

White / pink flowers. Vigorous grower.

Perfumed white flowers.

White / pink / red flowers.

Diverse mixture of native trees from dry inland to tropical north. Semi deciduous trees.

Deciduous trees from South Africa with brilliant flowers in spring / summer.

Highly decorative deciduous trees.

Deciduous small tree with hanging clusters of yellow flowers followed by long black pods.

Coastal small tree characteristic of beach locations.

Grows 6m high and 2m in diameter. Yellow, bird attracting flowers.

Grows 7m high, spreading up to 4m in diamater. Orange, bird attracting flowers.

Grows 8m high, spreading up 4m in diameter. Orange, bird attracting flowers.

Huge white perfumed flowers and glossy foliage.

Grows to 6m high, spreading to 3m in diameter. Creamy flowers.

Suited to most soil types.

Well drained clay / sandy soil.

Well drained clay / sandy soil.

Suited to most soil types but prefers well drained fertile loams.

Best in organically fertile loamy soils. Tends to be tough in drought provided it is established.

Establish the plant in fertile organic soil. Will tolerate most soils once established.

Well drained, clay / sandy soil.

Well drained, clay / sandy soil.

Prefers sandy soil.

Organic deep soils are preferred.

Adapted to most soil types.

Adapted to most soil types.

Adapted to most soil types.

Needs good drainage. Sandy soils best. Roots can be invasive.

Prefers sandy soil.

Well drained, clay / sandysoil.

Well drained, clay / sandy soil.

Well drained, clay / sandy soil.

Prefers sandy soil.

Full sun or part shade. Tolerates coastal seabreezes.

Full sun and wind tolerant.

Full sun.

Tolerates full sun, coastal winds.

Grows well in full sun to part shade. However, if conditions are stressed, it is best grown in part shade.

Best in full sun. Tolerates mild coastal breezes.

Full sun.

Sun / shade, tolerates wind.

Full sun.

Well suited to full sun and part shade although flowers will be better in full sun.

Best in full sun with a bit of protection from coastal breezes and strong winds.

Will tolerate strong winds although it may strip off flowers.

Best in a wind protected location. Full sun to part shade.

Best in seaside gardens in full sun.

Sun, wind and salt tolerant.

Sun / shade, wind and salt tolerant.

Prefers full sun.

Prefers sun, tolerates wind.

Full sun.

Trees

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APPENDIX 1 - WATERSAVERPLANTGUIDE

APPENDIX 2 - WATERSAVERPRODUCTGUIDE

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Aerating Lawn Sandals Strap on sandals with spikes that penetrate compacted soil. Water can then be directed to the roots for a greener, healthier lawn.

Root Irrigator A trigger wand with a probe attached which is inserted into the ground to deliver water to the plant's root system. This practice encourages deep root growth making the plants more drought resistant. There is also no evaporation loss with this type of watering.

Soil Moisture Detector A probe that measures soil moisture by measuring conductivity. A guide to the moisture requirements of different types of plants is also included.

Trigger Gun A hose attachment that controls water flow at the nozzle rather than at the tap.

Trigger Wand Water device which delivers water to the soil surface at the base of the plant.

Water Storage Crystals Soil additives that swell up into a jelly when water is applied, storing up to 400 times their weight in water and acting as a reservoir during dry periods. Ideal for pot plants.

Watering spikes A simple slow water feeder device inserted into the soil with a soft drink bottle fitted on the top. Water is released gradually. Cheap and easy solution for pot plants.

Wetting Agents (Granular) Surfactant (a substance which reduces the surface tension of a liquid) embedded in a granular material which is used on hydrophobic soil to enable water to be absorbed. Some granular wetting agents contain Bentonite clay which is particularly good for sandy soils. Ideal for lawns and gardens.

Wetting Agents (Liquid) Surfactant (a substance which reduces the surface tension of a liquid) in liquid formthat helps water to stick to the soil particles when the soil is hydrophobic and unable to absorb water. Also assists water uptake of normal soils.

CONTACTS&ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

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Gold Coast City Council would like to thank the following organisations and individuals for their generous contributions to the development of this Garden Watersaver guide.

Mr Jamie SpeedingAustralian Institute of Horticulture Inc.PO Box 54 Annerley QLD 4103Tel/Fax (07) 3276 7071Web www.aih.org.au Email qld@aih.org.au

Mr Paul PlantQld Association of Landscape Industries Inc.PO Box 491 Stones Corner QLD 4102Tel (07) 3847 8365 Fax (07) 3847 8359Web www.qali.asn.au Email info@qali.asn.au

Alex and Mirella JakimoffThe Nursery & GardenIndustry Queensland4A Hansford RdCoombabah QLD 4216Tel 07 5577 2350Email alexandersnursery@bigpond.com

Beth Cooling Australian School of HorticultureUpper Gilston Rd Upper Gilston QLD 4211Tel (07) 5533 2277 Mobile 0414 533 302Email ELIZABETHHort@aol.com

Brian Zancola, Ken Griffiths, Julie SingletonBunnings HardwareCnr Gold Coast Hwy & Oxley DrHarbourtown QLD 4215Tel (07) 5529 0909Web harbourtown@bunnings.com.au

Joe HanceHorticulturist Gold Coast City CouncilPO Box 5042 GCMC QLD 9726Web www.goldcoastcity.com.auEmail jhance@goldcoast.qld.gov.au

Greg MoretonMoreton Landscaping - Design, Construction & Maintenance (Member of Q.A.L.I & A.I.H)PO Box 1174 Burleigh Heads QLD 4220Tel (07) 5530 7236 Fax (07) 5593 2409Web www.moretons.com.auEmail greg@moretons.com.au

Robert CoddingtonPO Box 2761 Southport QLD 4215Tel 07 5539 3080Email rgahda@onthenet.com.au

Colin & Toni NixonTed & Yvonne HanifinBernard & Joan HollandJohn Hornsey

Useful links:www.gardenweb.comwww.savewater.com.auwww.global-garden.com.auwww.opengarden.org.auwww.plant.id.au

Better Homes and Gardens OnlineBHG Online GPO Box 1203 Sydney NSW 2001 www.bhg.com.au

ABC Gardening Australiawww.abc.net.au/gardening/