Functionalgarmentdesignispo2011 a 110325001424 Phpapp01

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2011/1/24

1

Performance

garment

/

Sportswear

design

and evaluation

功能性运动服装的设计与性能检测

Dr. Junyan Dr. Junyan Hu Hu Senior research fellow Senior research fellow

胡军岩胡军岩高级研究员高级研究员

Tel: 852 27664206 Fax: 852 27731432Email: [email protected]

ITC, The ITC, The HKPolyU HKPolyU

香港理工大学纺织制衣系香港理工大学纺织制衣系

Content内容

• Lab Introduction

实验室介绍

• Performance Garment design

功能服装的设计

• THERMAL SIMULATION

计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能

• Fabric Functional Properties Characterization

织物功能面料特性检测

• Physiological influence of Functional Material功能材料的生理影響

• Summary

结语

1. Bio‐functional Textile Research lab

生物功能纺织品研究室

ITF Research Projects

创新基金资助项目

高性能運動服與裝置

High‐Performance Sportswear

and Devices (ITP/014/08TP)

Heat production within activemuscle and its transfer to skin andsportswear

运动肌产热及其在皮肤和运动服装间的传递



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Physiological Wear Trials生理测试

Competition wear HPRW

Physiological study of cycling wear自行車服的生理效應研究

CommercialHPCW

Cooperate with Hong Kong

elite athletes與香港精英運動員們的合作

日期: 09.08.2008運動:划艇

活動: 2008北京奧運會

Photo took on 2nd Dec, 2009 at train center (Rowing)

http://www.hkolympic.org/imagecatalogue/c_popup_photo_gallery/3635

EAG 2009 Hong KongSource: http://2009eagarchive.lcsd.gov.hk/tc/news/gallery.php?catid=160

Hong Kong elite athletes in HPSWOlympic Game 2008

http://www.daylife.com/photo/08vx9cDf8OffW

2. Performance Garment design功能服装的设计

‐Requirements 消費者需求

• A safe product

• An environmentally friendly product

•

Collaboration of Technology

and Fashion

科技與時尚的結合

•A comfort product

Clothing

system

R a d i a t i o n

Convection

C o n d u

c t i o n

R a d i a t i o n

Convection

C o n d u

c t i o n

Human BodyPhysiolo ical

Clothing System

EnvironmentalP s

Thermal & Moistureexchange

Human BodyPhysiolo ical

Clothing System

EnvironmentalP s

Thermal & Moistureexchange

Brain

Individual

PsychologicalPerception

OverallComfort

Reactions:

•Shivering•Voluntaryexercise•Sweating•… Body

Condition

h y s i c al

t i m ul i

Physical stimuli

Physiologicalprocess

Decodingstimuli

NeuropsychologicalProcess

ysca process

Psychological Process

Brain

Individual

PsychologicalPerception

OverallComfort

Reactions:

•Shivering•Voluntaryexercise•Sweating•… Body

Condition

h y s i c al

t i m ul i

Physical stimuli

Physiologicalprocess

Decodingstimuli

NeuropsychologicalProcess

ysca process

Psychological Process



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Thermoregulatory

control system

The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation,George Havenith, Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of HumanSciences, LoughboroughUniversity, LE11 3TU

In the aspect of thermal comfort:著裝過程中的熱舒適

-Heat losses In a neutral environment

During exercise, these percentages could be reversed.

Source: The skin’s role in human thermoregulation and comfort P. 563

In the aspect of fitness:著裝過程中的體形變化

Key stretch points on the body

Source: Textiles in Sports, P205

Psychological sensory comfort‐ Clothing comfort dimensions

TactileTactile

PricklePrickleItchItch

RoughRoughScratchScratch

l a m m y

l a m m y

l d l d

TactileTactile

PricklePrickleItchItch

RoughRoughScratchScratch

l a m m y

l a m m y

l d l d

ThermalThermal--wetwet

PressurePressure

D a m

p

D a m

p

H o t

H o t

C C

S t i c k y

S t i c k y

Stiff Stiff SoftSoftSnugSnug

SmoothSmoothLooseLoose

ThermalThermal--wetwet

PressurePressure

D a m

p

D a m

p

H o t

H o t

C C

S t i c k y

S t i c k y

Stiff Stiff SoftSoftSnugSnug

SmoothSmoothLooseLoose

Thermal-wet comfort

• Sensations involving temperature and moisture

sultry damp clingy

clammy hot cold

stick

17

...

• Thermal receptors

• Transport properties of clothing

heat transfer

moisture transfer

air permeability…

Tactile comfort

• Direct fabric‐skin mechanical interactions

prickly scratchy itchy

rough sticky…

18

• Pain receptors in skin

• Fabric surface/mechanical properties



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Pressure comfort

• The space allowance between the body and the

garment

• Fabric bulk mechanical behaviours and overall fitness of

19

garment

• The pressure receptors in skin

• A number of synthetic sensations

loose heavy lightweight

soft stiff snug…

International Standards for thermal comfort

clothing有關熱舒適的一些國際標準

• ISO 7243, Hot environments — Estimation of the heat stress on working man, based on the WBGT‐index (wet bulb

globe temperature)

• ISO 7726, Thermal environments — Instruments and methods for measuring physical quantities

• ISO 7730, Moderate thermal environments — Determination of the PMV and PPD indices and specification of the

conditions for thermal comfort

• ISO 8996, Ergonomics — Determination of metabolic heat production

• ISO 7933, Hot environments — Analytical determination and interpretation of thermal stress using calculation of

re uired sweat rate

• ISO 9886, Evaluation of thermal strain by physiological measurements

• ISO 9920, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Estimation of the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance

of a clothing ensemble

• ISO 10551, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Assessment of the influence of the thermal environment using

subjective judgment scales

• ISO/TR 11079, Evaluation of cold environments — Determination of required clothing insulation (IREQ)

• ISO 13732 (all parts), Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Methods for the assessment of human responses to

contact with surfaces

• ISO 12894, Ergonomics of the thermal environments — Medical supervision of individuals exposed to extreme hot or

cold environments

• ISO 13731, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Vocabulary and symbols

Cold environments and people with special

requirements

• Working in cold environments – be exposed to severe conditions

• in the home,

• during outdoor activities,

• sporting activities or

• during transportation.

• Wind chill is commonly encountered in cold climates;

• Low temperatures

• cold

stress – climatic conditions under which the body heat exchange is just equal to or too large for heat balance at the expense of significant and sometimes uncompensable physiological strain (heat debt)

ISO 11079:2007(E)

• 1 met is 58.15 W/m2.

• A sleeping person has a rate of 0.7 met, and

reclining awake is 0.8 met.

• Office work is 1.2 met: a mostly seated activity

but one that involves occasional moving about.

• Walking slowly (0.9 m/s, or 2 mph) is 2 met,

moderate walking (1.2 m/s or 2.7 mph) is 2.6

met, and fast walking (1.8 m/s or 4 mph) is 3.8

met ( ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals, 2005). • Swimming ranges from 4 to 8 met, and jogging 8

to 12 met (Brooks et al., 1996). • The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%,

Metabolic rates of

different activities不同運動條件下的新陳代謝率

with 85% of total energy released as heat

Source: ISO 8996

Requirements for protection

• A method (and international standard) has been proposed that determines the required clothing

insulation (IREQ) as a function of ambient climate and activity (ISO/DIS‐11079, 2004).

Exposure time and at different combinations of

ambient temperature

Ref: ISO 11079, Metabolic rate 110WM-2



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Cooling power of wind

Source: ISO 11079

Problems of in winter clothing冬季服裝系統常見問題

• Insufficient thermal insulation in winter: – chilling of the body

– Hypothermia• frostbite, discomfort, impaired judgment, reduced capacity to work and poorer

endurance.

• especially in the hands and forearms, causes deterioration of manual sensitivity

and agility.

• harder to memorize and learn new things

• Over protection: – Thick clothing obstruct movement.

– Heavy

– Sweating, heat stress

• Cold environment come with snow, ice and wind

3.THERMAL SIMULATION

Sweating出汗

•• Insensible evaporative heat lossesInsensible evaporative heat losses

– about 100 to 150 ml per day per m2 of skin surface

The maximum sweat rate The maximum sweat rate •1liter/hour

• an unacclimatizedperson seldom reaches.

•2–3 liter/hour•a well-acclimatized person

•When evaporated,•removes about ten times the basal body heatproduction.

(Guyton and Hall, 2000).

Thermal physiologicalrequirements

熱生理需求

Running

Thermal Function

Moisture Function

running

Sweat Dissemination

The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation,George Havenith,Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human Sciences,Loughborough University, LE11 3TU

S-Smart软件



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Computer simulations for biomechanical performances

計算機仿真生物力學特性Fabric important properties

織物功能特性• Stretch

– to ensurer clothing doesn't restrict body movement and performance.

• Moisture management

– to ensure skin stays dry, thus minimizing:

– (a) evaporation from the skin which results in rapid heat and energy loss;

– (b) friction between clothing and the body and therefore reduced irritation.

• – for protection from the elements while maintaining a comfortable personal

microclimate.

• Temperature control – buffering against temperature swings between periods of activity and rest.

• Light weight – to enhance performance and conserve energy as less weight is carried.

• High strength and durability

– to protect the wearer and their clothes.

Pure Cotton Moisture Management Fabric with Nano

Technology

全棉差別導水織物

Normal pure cotton fabric全棉面料

Moisture management pure cotton fabric全棉差別導水面料

4. Fabric Functional Properties Characterization

‐4.1 Evaluation of moisture transfer properties

99

88

Standards

making Design principle

0 20

36

.

Influenced by影响因素:

•components of the water水的成份

•water content in the fabric面料中的含水量



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Typical moisture transfer behaviorU

Water Proof / Repellent fabric

U

Slow absorbing, slow spreading and very poor moisture management

fabric

Quick absorption and poor one-way transport Fabric

U

Absorbent and quick dry fabric

U

Good absorbent moisture management fabric

U

Excellent absorbent moisture management fabric

典型織物水傳遞特征

61#


17#


58#

4.2 Fabric Tactile

Comfort Tester

接触感觉测量

ΔT=10 ˚C

41Y Li, JY Hu , Lubos Hes, Textile Fabric Testing, US. 6,601,457 B2

4.3 Characterization of fabric

thermal radiation properties红外輻射特性测量

1.21.21.21.21.2

42

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

0 1 2 3 4 5 6

Time(min)

I R i n t e n s i t y ( v )

t r 1t r 2 t

r 3

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

0 1 2 3 4 5 6

Time(min)


t r 1t r 2 t

r 3

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )


t t 1 t t 2 t t3

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )


t t 1 t t 2 t t3

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )


t t 1 t t 2 t t3

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )


t t 1 t t 2 t t3

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )


t t 1 t t 2 t t3



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4.4 Characterization of fabric thermal and

moisture transfer properties

FanJ andYS Chen Measurement

43

, . . . , .

Science Technology, 2002. 13: p.1115-1123.

Stan, a thermal manikin atKansas State University, isused to measure the insulation

provided by cold weatherclothing.http://www.astm.org/SNEWS/SO_2009/f2360_so09.html

Typical measurement results on the skin surface

Measurements on Skin Surface

1

120

140

160

180

200

) , H e a t f l u x W / m ^ 2

1120

1130

1140

1150

s k i n m o d e l ( g )

t1 t2 t3 t 4 t 5


1

120

140

160

180

200

) , H e a t f l u x W / m ^ 2

1120

1130

1140

1150


t1 t2 t3 t 4 t 5

Weight

Heat f l ux


1

120

140

160

180

200

) , H e a t f l u x W / m ^ 2

1120

1130

1140

1150


t1 t2 t3 t 4 t 5


1

120

140

160

180

200

) , H e a t f l u x W / m ^ 2

1120

1130

1140

1150


t1 t2 t3 t 4 t 5

Weight

Heat f l ux

44

0

20

40

60

80

0 5000 10000 150 00 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000

Time (s )

T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) , R H (

1080

1090

1100

1110

R Hs Ts H Fs w eight

W e i g h t c h a n g e o f

0

20

40

60

80

0 5000 10000 150 00 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000

Time (s )

T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) , R H (

1080

1090

1100

1110



RH

Temperature

0

20

40

60

80

0 5000 10000 150 00 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000

Time (s )

T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) , R H (

1080

1090

1100

1110



0

20

40

60

80

0 5000 10000 150 00 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000

Time (s )

T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) , R H (

1080

1090

1100

1110



RH

Temperature

1. Dynamic contact process; 2. Insensitive perspirationsteady state;

3. Dynamic sweating process; 4. Dynamic wetting process;

5. Steady wetted state; 6. Drying process

1hr 3hr 6hr

Typical measurement results on the fabric

bottom surface

Mrasurements on Fbaric BottomSurface

85

95

105

1130

1140

1150

)RH

Weight

Mrasurements on Fbaric BottomSurface

85

95

105

1130

1140

1150

)RH

Weight

45

15

25

35

45

55

65

75

0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000

Time(s)

T e m p e r a t u

r e ( ℃ ) , R H ( % )

1080

1090

1100

1110

1120

R Hfb1 Tfb1 we ight

W e i g h t c h a n g e o f s k i n m o d e l (

Temperature

15

25

35

45

55

65

75

0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000

Time(s)

T e m p e r a t u

r e ( ℃ ) , R H ( % )

1080

1090

1100

1110

1120

R Hfb1 Tfb1 we ight

W e i g h t c h a n g e o f s k i n m o d e l (

Temperature

Typical measurement results on the fabric

upper surface

Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface

100

120

1130

1140

1150

( g )

Weight

Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface

100

120

1130

1140

1150

( g )

Weight

46

0

20

40

60

80

0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000

Time (s)

T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) R H ( 5 )

1080

1090

1100

1110

1120

R Hf u1 T fu 1 w ei gh t

W e i g h t c h a n g e

o f s k i n m o d e l

RH

Temperature

0

20

40

60

80

0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000

Time (s)

T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) R H ( 5 )

1080

1090

1100

1110

1120

R Hf u1 T fu 1 w ei gh t

W e i g h t c h a n g e

o f s k i n m o d e l

RH

Temperature

5. Physiological influence

of Functional Material功能材料的生理影響

Wear Trials

穿著試驗

Effect of Phase Change Material of Energy Consumption of

Clothing Assembly

Skin

33 ℃

Environment

-15 ℃Layer-3

Layer-4

Environment temperature: -15℃

NonwovenPolyester

The SecondLayer

WaterproofBreathable

Fabric

Cotton

48

Structure of the clothing assembly Sensor location

Layer-1

Layer-2

Skin temperature33℃ Humidity Sensor

Temperature Sensor



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5.00

10.00

15.00

20.00

25.00

30.00

35.00

e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ )

the clothing assembly A

the clothing assembly C

Dew point

25.5℃

IW_CLW_CWV_C

49

-15.00

-10.00

-5.00

0.00

0.00 5.00 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00

Thickness(mm)

T

DL2

Di1

DL1

Di2 IW_ALW_AWV_A Frozen point

0℃

Comparison of temperature distributions in clothing assemblies A(Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric without heating)

and C (Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric with heating)

Bronze award at IENA 2006

• Bronze award at IENA 2006, ITPC – Intelligent Thermal Protective Clothing

System, 2‐5 Nov‐2006, Nuremberg, Germany

Correlations between OMMC and clammy

綜合水份管理特性與濕粘感覺間的關係

Correlations between OMMC and dampness

綜合水份管理特性與潮濕感覺間的關係

IR images analysis

:

Experimental Protocol

• Environment 环境条件:

– Temperature: 33ºC

– RH: 40%

– IR camera 红外摄像机: Nikon Laird S‐270

– Physical exercise Rate 运动强度 4miles/ hr 英里/小时

• Special designed T shirt (left part is knitted MMF, right part is normal pure cotton knitted fabric with same structure.)

特殊设计的T恤 (左半部为针织液态水管理面料 ,右半部为相同结构的全棉普通针织面料)

Results結果

Stage one: Running at 4 miles/hr第一階段:以4英里 / 小時速度跑步

MMF Normal MMF Normal MMF Normal•Warm liquidarrive outsurface

•No evaporation

Time时间 (min分钟)

0 8 28

Beginning

开始

began to sweat

开始出汗Heavy sweating

出大汗

•More area ofevaporation



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Result 结果(2)

Stage two: Standing rest after 30 minutes running

第二階段:跑步30分鐘後,立停休息

MMF Normal MMF Normal

Dry & Warm

Time 时间(min分钟)

75 85

45 55 (rest)

Damp,Cold

Results (3)Skin temperature distribution when take off shirt after 80 minutes rest

休息80分鐘後,除下T恤後皮膚表面的溫度分佈情況

Dry & Warm

Back view at take off shirt

刚除下T恤

Back view after 70seconds

除下T恤70秒后

Damp,Cold

Summary

结语

• Collaboration of Technology and Fashion科技與時尚的結合

– Clothing system design –

• Comfort requirement – 舒适性的需求

Contact information

联系方法

Contact information

联系方法

Dr. Junyan HU

MN104,MN104, Institute of Textiles and Clothing

Tel: 852 27664206

Fax: 852 27731432

Email: [email protected]

Acknowledgement

致谢

We would like to thank HK Innovation Technology Commission

and HKPOLYU for the funding of this research through projects

ITS‐051‐02, ITP‐001‐07TP and ITP‐031‐08TP

Functionalgarmentdesignispo2011 a 110325001424 Phpapp01

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