FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS EMULMETIK™ BIOPHILIC™ …
Transcript of FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS EMULMETIK™ BIOPHILIC™ …
Skin constituents
• Phospholipids are essential constituents of cellular membrane. Organized in bi-layers, they form a selective and protective barrier which regulates cell life.
Membrane
PHOSPHOLIPID
GLYCOLIPID
CHOLESTEROL
PROTEIN
CARBOHYDRATE
Cell
Sources
• Soybean is one of the best sources of high quality phospholipids
• But also sunflower, egg, milk…
Manufacturing process
The crude lecithin has approximately the following composition: Polar lipids 60.0 - 70.0 %
Soybean oil 27.0 - 37.0 %
Moisture 0.5 - 1.5 %
Impurities 0.5 - 2.0 %
Definitions
• Lecithin = mixture of minimum 60% polar lipids (phospholipids + glycolipids) and oil
• Phospholipids = polar lipids containing phosphorus
Fatty acids
Phosphate group
Glycerol
Hydrophilic
Lipophilic
Amphiphilic molecules: hydrophilic head and two lipophilic tails. This bipolarity is responsible for its emulsifying properties
Definitions
• Depending on the “Z” substitute, phospholipids are different molecular types:
- Phosphatidylcholine (PC) - Phosphatidylethanolamine (PE) - Phosphatidylserine (PS) - Phosphatidylinositol (PI) - Phosphatidic Acid (PA)
Phospholipid active properties
• Strong attraction to the stratum corneum: restoration of the lipidic barrier of damaged skin Repairing action, anti-dehydrating action
• Formation of a film which protects the surface of the skin from damage
responsible for irritation Protective action
• High capacity for binding water: 1 phospholipid / 23 H2O Enhancement of the retention of water in the surface and deep layers of
the skin
Properties/Benefits of phospholipids
• Technical properties - Technical emulsifying - Dispersing / Wetting - Delivery system
• Active properties
- Restructuring - Film forming - Hydrating - Calming
100% active formulas
• Natural O/W emulsifiers
• Form biomimetic lamellar network
• Combine technological function and skin treating properties • Innovative texture Sophisticated, soft and rich skin feel INCI name: Biophilic™ H: Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid Biophilic™ S: Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid
Key points
Natural lamellar emuslifier
• Patented combination of phospholipids with certain type of fatty acids and fatty alcohols to improve their natural emulsifying properties and to develop the lamellar network
• Biophilic™ gives very stable creams capable of carrying up to 30% by
weight of oil
• Oil-drops are stabilized in the lamellar structure
Natural lamellar emulsifier
• Lamellar emulsion mimics skin structure for a perfect biocompatibility and tolerance
Lamellar structure of a gel with Biophilic™(without oil)
Lamellar structure of a cream with Biophilic™
Oil drops
High skin tolerance
In vitro citotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal keratinocytes. Tested dose: 0.008%
Active properties
• When applied on the skin, lamellar structure forms a thin film which prevents water loss or acts as a reservoir of water and biologically active molecules which are slowly released to the stratum corneum.
• Film formation • Prevention of water loss • Long-lasting effect • Delivery system
Skin
Emulsion
Phospholipid bilayers
Rich textures
The Biophilic™ range contains two references with different lecithins:
• The hydrogenated lecithin in Biophilic™ H provides very important thickening properties and allows to formulate white and odorless emulsions from cream to butter.
• Biophilic™ S contains unsaturated lecithin, creating softer and more fluid off-white textures from lotion to cream.
Process
Step 2. Hydration step. Melt Biophilic™ H at constant temperature (75-80°C) under slow stirring during 20-30 mn above 65°C
Process
Step 5. Homogenization at maximum speed at 80°C: the emulsion becomes
white, smooth and homogeneous
Tolerance studies
• Skin Irritation (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%) • Eye Irritation (concentration tested: 10%) • Sensibilization (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%) • Cytotoxicity (MTT dosage on EPISKIN® Model ) (concentration tested: 5%) • Phototoxicity
Ecotoxicity studies • Biodegradability (Biophilic™ H)
Excellent Safety Profile
Product information
INCI name: Biophilic™H: Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid Biophilic™S: Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid Appearance Biophilic™H: Beige to light grey pellets Biophilic™S: Light yellow pellets Recommended dosage 3 - 6% Ecocert/Cosmos status Registered
Product information
Formulation Hydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C Optimum pH 5 - 7 Applications Lotions to butter emulsions for: • Skin care
• Suncare • Make-up
On the market…
CHANEL Précision Solution Déstressante
NUXE Lait nourrissant confort Spa Tonific Crème Fraîche Concentrée
CHANEL Sublimage range
On the market…
ESTHEDERM SENSI SYSTEM - Crème repos biomimétique
NIVEA Energy Flash
ESTEE LAUDER Resilience Lift Extreme
On the market…
DIOR Ultimeyes
YVES SAINT LAURENT Teint de jour
NUSKIN Tru face instant line corrector
• Natural lamellar O/W emulsifier
• Combines technological function and skin treating properties • More polyvalent
• High skin tolerance
• Polysensorial: light, soft, velvet and cool skin feel
Key points
• Unsaturated lecithin - Penetration promoter - Lower viscosity - Cost effective
• Co emulsifier - Stability improvement
• Phytosterols
- Biomimetic lamellar network - Lower viscosity
• Fatty alcohol
- Lamellar network promoter
Properties of the ingredients
• Wider range of viscosity
• Larger range of pH
• Higher quantity of electrolytes
2nd generation of lamellar emulsifier
High skin tolerance
In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal keratinocytes. Tested dose: 0.008%
Process
1 . 2 methods
• Method 1: (water phase + Amisol™ Soft) + oil phase
• Method 2: water phase + (Amisol™ Soft + oil phase)
Process - Method 2
Step 3. Add oil phase into water phase and keep the mixture under slow stirring (300 rpm) for 20 to 30 minutes to hydrate the phospholipids. Temperature should not drop below 65°C during this step.
Step 4. Increase the rate of stirring to maximum setting
Process - Method 2
Step 6. Cooling step. Cool down the emulsion under slow stirring for 20 to 30 minutes minimum
Tolerance studies
• Skin Irritation (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%)
• Eye Irritation (investigation on SICR cell strain) (concentration tested: 10%)
• Sensibilization (HRIPT) (concentration tested: 10%)
• Mutagenicity (AMES test)
Excellent Safety Profile
Product information
INCI name: Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols Appearance Light yellow pellets Recommended dosage 3 - 6% Ecocert/Cosmos status Registered
Product information
Formulation Hydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C Optimum pH 4 - 8 Applications
Lotions to creams: • Skin care • Sensitive skin • Baby care • Suncare • Make-up
On the market…
DIOR Miss Dior Chérie Crème Soufflée
COLLISTAR Hydro-crema gel
KORRES Oak Night Cream
• Natural O/W emulsifier
• Easy-to-use • Polyvalent textures
• High skin tolerance
• Moisturizing action
Key points
• Hydrogenated phospholipids from sunflower
• Glyceryl stearate citrate
• Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
INCI name Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin
Natural complex
• Compatible with electrolytes
• Compatible with sunscreens (physical and chemical) and pigments
• Stable over a wide range of pH
Easy-to-use
• Fluid emulsions when used alone
• Cream emulsions when combined with a thickener
• Light skin feel + Phospholipid Touch
• Stable emulsion with up to 40% of oil phase (at 4% of Heliofeel™)
• Viscosity increases with increasing Heliofeel™ and oil phase contents
Polyvalent textures
High skin tolerance
In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal keratinocytes. Tested dose: 0.008%
Process
Step 3. Emulsification step. Add the oil phase into the water phase under strong stirring (3000 rpm) for 3 min
Process
Step 4. Cool down under medium stirring. Add the oil phase into the water phase under strong stirring (3000 rpm) for 3 min
Tolerance studies
• Skin Irritation (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%)
• Eye Irritation (investigation on SICR cell strain) (concentration tested: 10%)
• Mutagenicity (AMES test)
Ecotoxicity studies • Biodegradability
• Aquatic toxicity
Excellent Safety Profile
Product information
INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin Appearance Yellowish pellets Recommended dosage 2 - 6% Ecocert/Cosmos status Registered
Product information
Formulation
Add into oil phase and heat at 70-80°C No hydration phase Optimum pH 4 - 8 Applications
Spray to creams emulsions for: • Skin care • Suncare • Make-up
On the market…
NUXE Lait Fluide Corps Hydratant 24h
BIO BEAUTE by Nuxe Soin Contour des Yeux
RENE GUINOT Autobronzant Corps d’Eté