FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■

WWD

ON THE HUNT FOR INVESTORS

Juicy Couture Founders Seeking Way Back Home

Aéropostale ReengineersPHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

VIVA LA VICTORY

PACO RABANNE LAUNCHES MEN’S SCENT, INVICTUS.

PAGE 6

By DAVID MOIN

AT AEROPOSTALE, basic T-shirts and big logos just don’t cut it anymore. Teens, saturated by social media and style blog-gers dictating trends, are looking for more.

The $2.4 billion youth brand has re-examined its shopper base; redirected design efforts to target 16-year-olds; reduced product cycle times; added de-tails, fabric combinations and trendier fi ts to the product mix, like skinny jeans with patchwork; expanded footwear offerings, and just launched an active-wear line called Live Love Dream.

“Aéropostale is very different — and not different. It’s still teenager, young, fresh and casual, but we’ve gone from a very item-driven and heavily logoed line to more of a lifestyle brand,” said Emilia Fabricant, who a year ago joined Aéropostale Inc. as executive vice pres-ident to orchestrate a long-overdue fashion reengineering. The strategy is geared to update the image, stabilize what’s been an uneven performance for several seasons and reconnect the brand with customers.

“We will still have a logoed hoodie, but teenagers today do not want to be a

SEE PAGE 3

Queen KatyCoty Inc. and Katy Perry have royal ambitions for the singer’s third scent, called Killer Queen, due out in August. Perry aims for it to top the charts. And she doesn’t doubt her staying power for a moment. “I know what I do is worth something and does not have an expiration date on it,” Perry told WWD. Neither Perry nor Coty would comment on sales projections, but industry sources estimate the scent could reach $80 million in fi rst-year global retail sales. For more, see page 4.

SLICK MICKL’WREN SCOTT AND MICK JAGGER DISCUSS THE SINGER’S THREADS. PAGE 12

ART MOVEMENTA BEHIND-THE-SCENES LOOK AT THE VIDEO SHOOT FOR JAY-Z’S ‘PICASSO BABY.’ PAGE 9

By VICKI M. YOUNGand EVAN CLARK

THE JUICY COUTURE GALS WANT their old brand back.

Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor have been reaching out to private equity fi rms, looking for someone to help them buy back Juicy from Fifth & Pacifi c Cos., according to fi nancial sources.

So far, Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor have yet to find an investor to part-ner with, sources said. The pair did not respond to requests for comment Thursday.

Fifth & Pacifi c has been shopping Juicy as well as Lucky Brand in recent months, hoping to raise money for the Kate Spade expansion.

Final bids for Juicy were due ear-lier this week, sources said. Brand management firm Authentic Brands Group and private equity group IDG

Capital Partners are both said to be in the bidding.

It’s unclear whether Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor will be able to insert them-selves into the process at this point.

But if they did reclaim the brand they built, experts said the pair — known to be “temperamental” — have the creative chops to bring some excite-ment back to the business.

Observers said Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor would need a strong operating partner to make the business run, as their strengths are on the creative side.

“They could probably reenergize [Juicy] and make it important again,” said John Henderson, a fashion veter-an and director at Net Worth Solutions. “They were very creative.”

But the business today is very different than the one Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor founded. It is far more retail centric, with 75 specialty stores and 53 outlets.

SEE PAGE 8

FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■

WWD

PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

Queen KatyQueen KatyQueenCoty Inc. and Katy Perry have royal ambitions for the singer’s third scent, called Killer Queen, due out in August. Perry aims for it to top the charts. And she doesn’t doubt her staying power for a moment. “I know what I do is worth something and does not have an expiration date on it,” Perry told WWD. Neither Perry nor Coty would comment on sales projections, but industry sources estimate the scent could reach $80 million in fi rst-year global retail sales. For more, see page 4.

WWD.COM2

By ARNOLD J. KARR

WHILE JUNE comp results were mixed among reporting retailers, there was certainly no swoon.

Stores overcame a slow start and most ended the month with decent gains as promotions and summery weather helped stoke consumer interest.

Thomson Reuters put the gain among reporting retailers at 4.8 percent, above the 3.6 percent advance expected by analysts.

Among the small base of com-panies still reporting sales re-sults monthly, the numbers re-ceived a lift late in the day when Gap Inc. reported its comparable sales — meaning those for stores open at least a year and those at-tributable to e-commerce — were up 7 percent, well above the 4.7 percent increase expected.

While the Gap and Banana Republic brands fell short of ex-pectations, with a 5 percent in-crease and a 1 percent decrease, respectively, the corporate re-sult benefited from an increase at the Old Navy brand that was more than twice the one expect-ed — up 13 percent, versus a 5.4 percent forecast, for the single strongest result among report-ing stores.

Old Navy’s powerful show-ing was consistent with a strong performance among retailers emphasizing value and show-ing solid promotional instincts during the month, according to David Bassuk, managing director of AlixPartners.

“Consumers are leaning towards the value side and rewarding retailers that are offering strong promotions,” he said. “There’s been a more consistent reward for value in recent months.”

He cautioned that the results needed to be interpreted with a number of factors in mind — the small size of the remaining comp sample, the absence of high-end and luxury players among the reporters and the general weak-ness of June 2012 results.

Although reluctant to include

weather in his explanations for retail performance, Bassuk ac-knowledged that extreme heat and heavy rains may have helped draw shoppers to malls during the month.

“The comparisons get harder and the effect of back-to-school more significant as we get into July and August,” he said. “And you have to be mindful of those who still report, but this is cer-tainly a good barometer as far as middle America goes. It’s a limited and short-term view, but the short-term view today is good news.”

Among the other value play-ers sharing strong results were

Costco Wholesale Corp., up 6 percent excluding fuel sales, and Stein Mart Inc., which posted a 6.5 percent comp increase to put its same-store increase for the second quarter to date at 7.3 per-cent. Both stores exceeded esti-mates for the month.

Stein Mart’s shares added $1.22, or 8.9 percent, to close at $14.98 in Nasdaq trading

Thursday after hitting a 52-week high of $15 in midday trades.

Costco shares also hit a 52-week high, at $115.94, before closing at $115.89, up $2.24, or 2 percent.

L Brands Inc., Victoria’s Secret parent, was flat for the month, lower than anticipated, as Victoria’s Secret’s comps were down 1 percent versus expecta-tions of a 1.4 percent increase.

However, Richard Jaffe, ana-lyst at Stifel Nicolaus, noted, “The comp decrease was primar-ily driven by lower clearance sales during the company’s semi-annual sale event as VS entered the event with fewer clearance units than last year.”

The company pointed out that lower promotional activ-ity helped lift both merchan-dise margins and merchandise margin dollars during June. It expects comps to rise in the low-single digits in July.

Earlier this week, American Apparel Inc. reported a 7 percent increase in comparable sales for June, including a 5 percent gain in same-store sales.

The month was a bit harder for the two remaining teen re-tailers in the comp sample, one of which, Zumiez Inc., said it would withdraw from monthly reporting after sharing July re-sults next month.

Zumiez booked a 1 percent comp increase, below the 2 percent expected, while The Buckle Inc. came closer to the mark, registering a 3.4 percent gain that was just 0.3 points below expectations.

Michael Niemira, vice pres-ident of research and chief economist for the International Council of Shopping Centers, called the June results “very strong.

“Overall, these data continue to paint an improving picture after a ‘softer’ first quarter — February to April — and are en-couraging as we move into the second fiscal quarter of the year,” he said.

ICSC expects June comps to rise between 3 and 3.5 percent.

WWD FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2013

House OKs Altered Farm Bill

Comps See Late-June Pickup

TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS FIRSTNAME_LASTNAME@FAIRCHILDFASHION.COM, USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 206, NO. 8. FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at condenast@theygsgroup.com, or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

ON WWD.COM

THE BRIEFING BOXIN TODAY’S WWD

Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor have been looking for someone to help them buy back Juicy Couture from Fifth & Pacific Cos. PAGE 1 Aéropostale has launched an activewear line called Live Love Dream and is reengineering its overall collection to reconnect with teens. PAGE 1 Katy Perry discusses her career, fashion ambitions and her new fragrance with new scent partner Coty Inc., Killer Queen, due out in August. PAGE 4 Invictus, Paco Rabanne’s new men’s scent, is about the sweet smell of victory. PAGE 6 CVS Pharmacy is beefing up its Essence of Beauty brand with a collection of bath and body products featuring scents created by master perfumers. PAGE 6 Origins has raised its flag in Latin America by opening its first department store counter in Mexico. PAGE 6 Fabrizio Freda of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. was interviewed by Rose Marie Bravo Wednesday for the Fashion Group International’s Tastemakers Series. PAGE 7 Jay-Z’s Instagram-ready video shoot-cum-performance piece at Pace Gallery on Tuesday drew an eclectic mix of VIPs and artists. PAGE 9 Sailor Brinkley is following in the footsteps of her famous mother, Christie, appearing in her first advertising campaign for accessories chain Claire’s. PAGE 9 American Eagle Outfitters has chosen to sign on to the IndustriALL accord to address safety issues in Bangladesh’s garment industry. PAGE 11 Mick Jagger and L’Wren Scott talk about her designs for the last two dates of the Rolling Stones’ tour. PAGE 12

Anna Kendrick with Emmy Rossum in Carolina Herrera and Emma Roberts in Edition by Georges Chakra at the Museum of Moving Image. For more, see WWD.com.

EYE/PERSOL: Eyewear firm Persol celebrated its third and final “Magnificent Obsessions” exhibit at the Museum of Moving Image on Wednesday night. For more, see WWD.com.

PHOT

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By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — The House, which defeated a comprehensive farm, nutrition and conservation bill in June, passed a scaled-back farm bill on Thursday by a vote of 216 to 208 that has implica-tions for cotton farmers, textile producers and ap-parel companies.

House Republican leaders stripped out food stamp and nutrition programs from the farm legislation in an attempt to win over conserva-tive Republicans who were seeking larger cuts in food stamp programs in the original measure that was defeated.

The revised House bill faces a veto threat from the White House because it eliminates nutrition and food stamp programs and contains “inade-quate” commodity and crop insurance reforms. The House measure would have to be reconciled with a comprehensive $955 billion bill the Senate passed in early June.

The five-year legislation would continue federal funding for a program supporting U.S. textile mills that use domestic cotton. It also seeks to resolve a long-standing cotton subsidy dispute with Brazil and bring U.S. cotton programs into line with World Trade Organization requirements.

Under the “Economic Assistance Adjustment” program, the government gives U.S. textile mills 3

cents a pound of domestic or imported upland cot-ton they use, as long as the money is invested in acquiring, modernizing or expanding land, plants, buildings or equipment.

The House bill mirrors the Senate bill in that it seeks to establish a new insurance program for cot-ton farmers, with the federal government covering a percentage of a policy’s premium.

It would also eliminate direct payments of about $580 million a year to cotton farmers, end coun-tercyclical payments and modify the export credit guarantee program meant to bring into compliance federal cotton subsidy programs that were found to violate WTO rules in a case brought by Brazil dat-ing back to 2002. Brazil has maintained that U.S. cotton subsidies depress global cotton prices. The WTO sided with Brazil and issued a series of find-ings between 2005 and 2008.

The U.S. and Brazil reached an agreement in 2011 that averted $800 million in sanctions. The U.S. agreed to make some changes in its cot-ton export and credit guarantee program, and to work with Brazil to establish a $147.3 million fund to provide technical assistance and ca-pacity building for the Brazilian cotton indus-try. Brazil has identified a list of U.S. exports it would sanction, including raw cotton, woven fabric, cotton pants and shorts, if the U.S. did not take appropriate actions to change its sub-sidy programs.

% Change

Old Navy 13

American Apparel 7

Stein Mart 6.5

Costco * 6

Gap 5

Buckle 3.4

Bath & Body Works 2

Zumiez 1

Cato 1

Perfumania -0.7

Victoria’s Secret -1

Banana Republic -1SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS * Excludes fuel sales.

Comparable Sales for June

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WWD.COM

billboard for a brand anymore,” Fabricant said.

In an exclusive interview at Aéropostale’s Manhattan show-room, Fabricant, who oversees the design, merchandising and production for the Aéropostale brand, showed off the Live Love Dream collection. It’s Aéropostale’s first foray into ac-tivewear and the latest indica-tion of how the company is seek-ing to regain relevance.

“This is a lifestyle we weren’t addressing,” Fabricant said, as she highlighted the color-blocked running shorts, cropped active leggings, muscle Ts, striped yoga shirts and zippered track jackets. “Live Love Dream has an active element that we find teenagers incorporate into everything, from going to the gym to going to Starbucks. It speaks to the dreams and ideal-ism of teenagers and their sense of wanting empowerment.”

After a soft launch online and some social media, Live Love Dream this month rolled out to the chain’s 1,000 stores in the U.S. and 15 stores abroad. Shops-in-shop, averaging a couple hundred square feet in size depending on the location, have been installed. Live Love Dream can also be found on lld.com, which Fabricant said is in-tended to become “like a com-munity” where teens can get advice on anything from how to keep fit to recipes for health shakes, and on the LLD tab on aeropostale.com. The collection consists of footwear, yoga and active pants, casual and active tops and intimates. It also has a lounge component, with tops, bottoms and sweaters.

“It’s really how she mixes it and wears it. Lighter-weight, soft, stretchy sweaters can be worn over a sports bra and a running short,” Fabricant said. Among the early bestsellers: running jackets, treated with an extra wash so they’re softer and lighter in appearance, and the active capris. “The collec-tion is very value-driven, like Aéropostale,” Fabricant said, though she acknowledged that technical fabrics for perfor-mance raise some price points.

With the overall Aéropostale brand, changes have gradually become evident. The logo hasn’t been entirely dropped, but it’s not as ubiquitous. Fabrics, washes, finishes and silhou-ettes are getting updated, and products appear more sophis-ticated, i.e., sweaters with lace necklines, jeans with patch-work and zipper pockets and boyfriend tanks with printed lace. Flat jersey knits have been largely supplanted by slub cotton mixed with tulle and em-broidered trim.

With footwear, the offering has grown from flip-flops and Sherpa boots to include boo-ties, motorcycle boots, combat boots and athletic sneakers. To support the footwear growth, Aéropostale acquired women’s fashion footwear retailer Gojane.com in November 2012. And in some categories, the production cycle has been shortened for a fast-fashion approach. The goal is to offer 30 percent of the as-sortment in fast-fashion that’s of higher quality than fast-fashion retail competitors.

With men’s wear, Fabricant said the approach is to offer clas-sics with a twist, such as denim button-down Oxfords in tur-quoise or orange, instead of the light blues or pinks seen previ-ously. Layering is emphasized.

Previously, product develop-ment targeted 14- to 17-year-olds. Now the focus is on 16-year-olds because, as Fabricant said, 14- and 15-year-olds aspire to how 16-year-olds dress, and how 16-year-olds dress is still rel-evant to 17-year-olds.

Last October, a “studio store” prototype was introduced with a layout that segments different categories, projects a lifestyle appeal, has iPads to help shop-pers make selections and en-ables girls to play songs of their choosing in the dressing rooms. The store in the Roosevelt Field mall in Garden City, N.Y. — one of 10 studio stores currently operating, with 30 planned for 2013 — has exposed-brick, white fixtures, dark wood and dress-ing rooms inspired by New York City neighborhoods like the East Village and SoHo.

“We see signs in the stores that Aéropostale is starting to do better, led by the fact that a little fashion and newness is creeping in,” observed Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners. “We have seen a turn, but it’s very early yet. The new stores look and feel much different. I’m not saying it’s Anthropologie, but they attract a little bit of an

older crowd, partly because of the new fashion, the stores are warm, they have visual interest, texture, and the lighting is quite good. There’s an up-to-date, al-most cool feel that’s very invit-ing. This is not just another in-line box at a mall. But the jury is still out. The real acid test is back-to-school.”

Aéropostale’s net income for the first quarter ended April 28 fell 35.4 percent to $10.6 million, and last year, net income took a hit as well, declining 49.8 per-cent to $34.9 million. Annual net sales crept up 1.9 percent, but heavy promoting brought down the bottom line.

Aéropostale, originally a Macy’s private label founded in the Eighties until being spun off into a separate company and eventually taken public, had real growth from 2001 until the recession, when the mer-chandise, stores and logo got tired. “They stayed on the logo product too long, crowding out efforts at newness,” Johnson said, while other teen retailers like Abercrombie & Fitch and American Eagle were quicker to tone theirs down. Aéropostale was also beset by a “flight to fast-fashion,” meaning teens de-fected to Forever 21 and H&M. What was largely left were ninth graders or younger kids and fewer 14- to 17-year-olds, who generally don’t want to shop with their younger siblings.

But with the addition of hip-per styles such as maxidresses

and peasant looks, Aéropostale is homing in on a mid or older teen, the sweet spot. “The mer-chandising is much improved” said Rebecca Duval, vice presi-dent for retail and apparel at BlueFin Research Partners. “It doesn’t feel like there are so many items just jammed in. It feels collection-based and not as cheap. It’s an easier shopping experience.” While merchan-dising changes were occurring “slower than I would like to see,” Duval said July is “really the kickoff” for showing off the reengineered collection. Among the changes that she liked were a bigger denim presence, especial-

ly in men’s; more fashion items, including beaded or studded women’s denim; novelty men’s woven tops; peplum tanks, and muscle Ts. “It was really a slow process to evolve the product,” Duval said. “Teenagers want fashion. Teenagers don’t want to look like everyone else. They want the trend. You’ve got to offer some of the trend, but there has to be some longevity built into the product because you still have parents buying it” for their children.

“Five years ago, teenagers were influenced by what hap-pened at school and by their friends. Now they’re influ-enced more by what’s online, by Instagram and Facebook,” said Fabricant, who before joining Aéropostale was president of Bebe Stores Inc. and earlier was president of Charlotte Russe Inc., another youth chain. “There is much more information about style and fashion, and because of that teenagers are getting more comfortable with their own style earlier and becom-

ing more fashionable at an ear-lier age. We’ve been doing a lot of focus groups. We’re very in touch with teenagers.”

Fabricant said being the mother of two boys, ages 13 and 15, and a 16-year-old girl is “like having a focus group at home. I listen a lot. My daughter prefers to shop online but still likes to go to stores and check things out. I went prom shopping with her and five girls. In the fitting rooms, they were taking pic-tures of themselves in the dress-es they wanted. It’s called taking a ‘selfie,’ and it’s so no one else buys the same dress. It’s like claiming ownership.”

3WWD FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2013

Activewear Latest Step in Aéropostale Revamp{Continued from page one}

PHOT

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Emelia Fabricant is reengineering the

look of Aéropostale.

Items from Live Love Dream: a razor-back tank for $12; active capris, $25; a knitted pullover, $22; active shorts, $15, and sports bras, $15.

Variety in the footwear offering: combat boots, booties and buckle boots, ranging from $43 to $49.

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

WWD.com/retail-news.

WWD.COM4 WWD friday, july 12, 2013

By Julie NaughtoN and Pete BorN

Katy Perry would like to make one thing absolutely clear: She doesn’t allow her life to be ruled by fear.

While some celebrities have made questionable decisions because they’re not positive of their career longevity, Perry is not one of them.

“this is how i view my ca-reer: not as a ticking bomb,” said Perry. “a lot of people do things out of fear. a lot of people make choices [based on think-ing] they won’t have a career in five years. i know where i am, i know what i do is worth some-thing and does not have an expi-ration date on it. i’m not making choices — in any capacity of my life, with any kind of endorse-ment, with any kind of product — out of fear.”

that includes her new fra-grance with new scent partner Coty inc., due out in august. Called Killer Queen, the scent’s name references the classic rock song written by Freddie Mercury.

“Killer Queen has been in my vocabulary since i was 15, be-cause of the song ‘Killer Queen’ by Queen,” said Perry. “Freddie Mercury painted the lyrics of this woman who i wanted to be. She seemed very powerful, and she captivated a room when she walked in. i named my company Killer Queen after those lyrics. i feel like, after all this time, it was appropriate to use that name in association with something i did. i feel like i’m falling, finally, into that woman Freddie painted.”

Perry grows animated when talking about her newest fra-grance, noting that each of her three fragrances has rep-resented a certain stage in her life. Perry launched her first fragrance, a floral juice dubbed Purr by Katy Perry, in November 2010. a second fra-grance, a gourmand scent called Meow, launched a year later. Both represented a more youth-ful, playful side of Perry.

But it’s her latest that repre-sents Perry today. “Killer Queen is powerful, edgy, sophisticat-ed — and that’s exactly where i’m trying to be now with my music,” said Perry. “there were two different aspects in creating the fragrance. it’s almost like [using] two different parts of your brain — the packaging and bottle and marketing, but essen-tially all that doesn’t matter un-less you have the juice.”

Comparing it to songwriting, she remembered, “i spoke one time at a songwriting thing and the kids were asking me ques-tions about being an artist. [i told them] all of the costumes and the glitter and the glitz and glam is great, but if you don’t have the talent, you just look like a freak.”

Speaking of talent, Perry is not content settling for just hav-ing the most popular celebrity fragrance. She aspires to have the most popular fragrance —

period. “i just hope to put out a real quality project that com-petes, and competes beyond the celebrity fragrances,” she said. “We’re making a product that really stands out on its own, be-yond my name.”

indeed, her licensing part-ner, Coty, is betting heavily that it will be a hit. While neither Perry nor Coty executives would discuss figures of any kind, in-dustry sources speculate that the company is aiming for a first-year target of $80 million globally in retail sales, or $48 million in wholesale value.

Describing the scent’s posi-tioning, she said, “it’s for some-one sophisticated, who wants a little edge and can wear it all day, and still wants that sexiness.”

and don’t think it was as easy as throwing a few unusual notes in a bottle. “it took us something like 30 or 35 tries to get it right,” said Perry. “i wanted some floral [notes], like jasmine, but i also wanted red velvet flower, which is incredible — it gives it the edge that makes it Killer Queen. it does have a bit of a gourmand thing to it — but gourmand like high tea at Claridge’s. i wanted the scent to have a little bit of ambiguity. i was attracted to scents in the last couple of years like alien by thierry Mugler

and Black orchid from tom Ford. they’re too strong for me to wear all the time, and i didn’t want to them to be [copies], just to have a hint of ambiguity like they do. it’s sophisticated, but it’s not alienating my main group of people. the patchouli heart gives it ambiguity and this thing called cashmeran is really cool. it has this real curve ball in it that i think is sophisticated but still supersexy.” She added, “you can’t buy anything that makes you who you are, but you can highlight what you’ve already got inside you. i want this particular perfume to highlight the power that’s already inside of you.”

in July 2012, Coty acquired Perry’s fragrance license from gigantic Parfums and, in an un-usual move, continues to sell both scents launched under gigantic. Steve Mormoris, senior vice president of global marketing, american Fragrances, for Coty Prestige, said, “She’s incredibly talent-ed, and we are expecting great things from Killer Queen. We believe this is a top-10 launch.” renato Semerari, president, Coty Beauty, agreed, “She’s brought the same passion and creativity she brings to her work into the creation of this fragrance. We look forward to

developing her line of signature fragrances and establishing her as a leading beauty brand.”

Coty’s much bigger global footprint allows Perry a world-wide stage for her fragrance efforts, she noted, jokingly comparing her new partners to “Daddy Warbucks.”

“When i was launching Meow, [many] people following me on twitter couldn’t order it because they couldn’t find it,” said Perry. “thankfully, i have a lot of people all over the world who are interested in these fra-grances, but they didn’t have the accessibility to them.…Coty has the distribution to do that.”

She also acknowledges that Coty’s multifaceted expertise in fragrance, color and skin care af-ford her opportunities in the fu-ture. “i’m a product whore,” she said. “i have a [beauty] regimen that spans an hour and a half, and nothing goes out of order.” She chuckles and admits that’s hard to do “if you’re sleeping over at a new boyfriend’s house.” But no new categories are imminent. “i wouldn’t say never on anything, but my heart isn’t drawn to that area just yet,” said Perry. “i’m re-ally excited for the newer, bigger, better launch of my fragrances.”

Killer Queen’s juice was created by Perry in partner-ship with laurent le guernec of international Flavors & Fragrances. top notes are of wild berry, dark plum and ber-gamot; the heart includes red velvet flower, natural jasmine sambac and rainbow plumeria, and the drydown is of cashmer-an, natural patchouli heart and liquid praline.

the jewel-shaped bottle — inspired by a queen’s scepter — is rendered in red and gold and rests on its side. a gold crown with a crest created for Perry and containing figures of cats, a music clef and hearts and dag-gers tops the bottle.

“one thing i was really inspired by was Jean-Paul gaultier’s fragrances, time after time after time,” said Perry. “there was the snow globe [Fragile], he was doing a bust [Signature], he was doing this

or that. But he always did some-thing that made me want to keep the bottle as a keepsake after-wards. i felt cool if i had one on a shelf in my room, even if there was no juice left in it. that in-spired me. there isn’t any point for me to put out something that doesn’t stand out — because that is so not like me.”

eaux de parfum in four sizes — 0.5 oz. for $20, 1 oz. for $39.99, 1.7 oz. for $49.99 and 3.4 oz. for $59.99 — will be offered, as will a 6.7-oz. body lotion, $25, and a 6.7-oz. shower gel, $25. Killer

Queen will launch in august in about 3,000 u.S. department and specialty store doors. globally, the scent will be sold in about 20,000 doors and in more than 50 countries, said Mormoris. there will be a Web site for the fragrance, as well as Facebook and twitter campaigns. at press time, Perry had more than 38.7 million followers on twitter. “i’m very particular about my twitter. i like Facebook, and i use it and i appreciate it, but it’s mostly just to let everyone know what’s going on, what’s coming up. My twitter is like a smor-gasbord of things i like, things i don’t like, what i want to say, what i want people to hear, if i want to be funny or retweet, talk to my fans and have impromptu Q&as. it’s also a way for me to announce things, to share things. it’s like picking up the phone to your closest friend, be-cause it’s so easy and so direct.”

Print advertising, shot by tim Walker, breaks in September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. tV advertising, which is slated to begin run-ning aug. 24, was shot by Jonas akerlund. Both feature Perry and the cheeky tag line “own the throne.”

Fashion? “i would like to [branch into fashion], but this circus act can only juggle so many balls,” Perry said with a laugh. “it’s to be determined, but we’ll see how it goes. it’s a long process, and i want to find the right place for me. there are a lot of people i really look up to in fashion — [like] alice + olivia and the row — and i like that price range, too. i love what Victoria Beckham did, but i also have to figure out with myself what actually is the market i want to be in. is it a high fashion market or is it an accessible market? Nothing is [currently] being created; there aren’t even sketches on the table, nor a contract.” She fondly recalls the light-up dress she wore to the 2010 Met Ball: “that was true punk,” she said. “and when i woke up really hung over the next day, i saw i was on WWD’s cover.”

While Perry played coy about her upcoming album (“i’m still working on it! you’re Women’s Wear Daily, not rolling Stone!” she said in a mock-severe voice), reports are that it will be more “mature” than Perry’s earlier pop confections, and could in-clude songs inspired by Perry’s ex-husband, russell Brand, and cowritten with songwriter and pal Bonnie McKee.

“everything is a conversation, that’s all i can say,” said Perry. “i’m not saying i’ll be good at all of it, but i’m going to swing.”

4

’’’’

’’’’

Perry’s Royal Turn: Killer Queenbeauty

I woke up really hung over the next day [after the 2010 Met Ball],

I saw I was on WWD’s cover.— Katy Perry

This is how I view my career: not as a ticking bomb…I’m not

making choices…out of fear.

w12a004a;9.indd 4 7/11/13 5:29 PM07112013173015

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By Pete Born

orIGInS HAS rAISeD its flag in Latin America by opening its first department store counter in Mexico, and the initial reports have been encouraging for the estée Lauder Cos. Inc.-owned brand.

“Sales have been strong over the first 10 days,” said Philippe Warnery, vice president of origins International, refer-ring to the July 2 opening.

origins made its debut in the Polanco flagship of the Liverpool department store chain, situated in the heart of Mexico

City. A second door will open in August in Mexico City, followed by more counters in three other Liverpool doors — also in the city — by December. the Polanco coun-ter contains about 300 square feet and is stocked with 88 stockkeeping units, virtu-ally all the origins skin-care range and most of its body products.

executives said the strategy was to appeal to the local appetite for skin-care products, while operating in the familiar territory of a department store. “Mexico is the number-one prestige mar-ket for skin care in Latin America,” said Jane Lauder, global president and gen-eral manager of origins and ojon. “this point was driven home by the early sales results. Warnery reported that the sig-nature Plantscription antiaging range

is the top-selling franchise. He added, “our free mini facial service has been extremely popular as a means for cus-tomers to explore the brand.” Looking forward, Warnery said origins will con-tinue staging in-store events throughout July “as drivers for the business as we roll out additional doors with Liverpool in Mexico.”

the Polanco opening was the first foray into Latin America for the natu-rally based skin-care and beauty brand, but origins is no stranger to dealing with Spanish-speaking customers, particular-ly in the Southwestern U.S.

Warnery noted that millions of Mexicans live north of the border, and Lauder pointed out that the Hispanic population is one of the fastest grow-ing segments in America. In addition, the company did consumer research to make sure the profile of the Liverpool shopper matched up with the typi-cal origins customer. As in the brand’s previous entry into China, origins found a like-minded audience in Mexico. “they really love the idea of nature,” Lauder said. “And what they were so excited about was that origins was able to harness the power of natural ingredients to give them high performance [in skin care].”

Warnery said that this year the brand will stick to opening doors in Mexico City, but

once brand awareness begins to grow, Liverpool’s 78-store network will allow origins to enter further markets, like Monterrey. “We will be opening five to eight doors every year,” he said, “with a potential rollout of a different distri-bution, but for the time being, we are focusing with Liverpool.” At the pres-ent time, the size of the counters will be roughly the same. “We are not fighting for huge space, but well-located space,” he said, raising one possibility for the fu-ture. origins is used to operating its own stores, and Liverpool owns malls, as well as department stores. there are no plans now, but “potentially” origins could in the future open freestanding stores in Liverpool malls, Warnery said, adding, “We have the capability.”

By JennIfer WeIL

PArIS — Invictus, Paco rabanne’s new men’s scent, is about the sweet smell of victory.

“We thought it was time to come with a new masculine aspect of the brand,” said José Manuel Albesa, chief brand officer at Puig, which owns the label.

He added rabanne fragrances are always about different fantasies — being a rock star with Black XS, or being rich and famous with 1 Million (today the world’s top-selling prestige men’s scent) and Lady Million. each one has an ironic twist, too.

“We wanted to explore the fantasy of victory,” said Albesa. “We thought it was a completely different way to do a sports fragrance à la rabanne. there is a mix that is quite sexy and at the same time daring. It’s around the ecstasy of victory.”

to wit: the fragrance bottle — de-signed with Cédric ragot — is in the shape of a trophy, and wings (of victory) appear on the scent’s outer box.

for the advertising “we wanted to [blend] reality and mythology,” con-tinued Albesa.

Australian rugby player nick Youngquest fronts the campaign, whose spot unfolds like an epic saga replete with colossal gods and god-desses. the victorious athlete enters a stadium, poses for photographers, then displays superhuman power to foil charging opponents. When he returns to the locker room, a bevy of beauties await him. He grins impishly.

nick thornton Jones and Warren du Preez photographed the print ad-vertisement.

for the juice, created by International flavors & fragrances’ Véronique nyberg with Anne flipo, olivier Polge and Dominique ropion, freshness was key. the scent contains a marine accord plus notes of grapefruit zest and bay leaf for a “sense of ecstasy taking off,” and notes of guaiac wood, ambergris and patchouli for an “addic-tive quality,” according to the company.

Invictus was launched in europe’s travel-retail channel on July 1 and in france on tuesday.

In August, it will enter countries in-cluding Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Israel. the scent is to be launched in markets such as Italy, Spain, Sweden and Denmark in September, followed by a debut in some South American coun-tries and Singapore in october. Invictus is slated for a 2014 U.S. launch.

to help propel its kickoff, a real-ity show, called “Invictus Award,” will start airing this month on Youtube. It features seven athletes from an equal number of disciplines and countries who live together and compete to win 50,000 euros, or $655,235 at current ex-change, to help fund a sports-related, socially involved project and become the face of the Invictus Calendar for 2015. Viewers will choose the laureate between August and october.

While Puig executives would not dis-cuss sales projections, industry sources estimate Invictus will generate first-year retail sales of 160 million euros, or $209.6 million.

In france, the 50-ml. eau de toilette is to retail for 54 euros, or $70.75, while the 100-ml. edt version will be 72 euros, or $94.35.

By BeLISA SILVA

CVS PHArMACY is zeroing in on the fra-grance category.

Come September, the retailer will beef up its home brand essence of Beauty with a collection of bath and body products featuring scents created by master perfumers.

“We wanted unique fragrances from some of the best in the business,” said George Coleman, vice president of store brands at CVS Pharmacy. “We worked closely with our master perfumers to figure how we could start with the fra-grance and get that similar experience throughout the line.”

the lineup, launching to all 7,400 CVS locations, as well as online at cvs.com and essenceofbeauty.com, will be com-prised of four scent families with various “layerable” body products within them. Wind Kissed is based on spring flow-ers, In the tropics alludes to island life; forever Paris is a rose-based Parisian-inspired scent, and Secret Woods is de-signed to channel the feeling of a hidden forest. Perfumers Constance Georges-Picot and Arnaud Winter of Cosmo

International fragrances and Shinta Judana of Mane created the scents.

“the everyday woman is looking for moments that help them indulge and es-cape their busy lives, and the fragranc-es I develop for her have the ability to transport her,” said Georges-Picot, the nose behind the Secret Woods fragrance. “one of the reasons I wanted to partner with CVS on this line is that I can create custom, complex scent profiles that have that transporting ability, and CVS makes them accessible and affordable so any-one can enjoy them.”

each range features a body mist, $2.99 to $6.99; a bath and shower gel, $5.99; a body lotion, $5.99, and a body and hand cream, $1.99 to $6.99. the collection, which will feature new essence of Beauty packaging meant to share perfumer inspiration more clearly, was formulated with ingredients like passion flower seed oil, rice bran oil, vi-tamins A and C and aloe vera. Although the brand would not disclose numbers, industry sources estimate the 32 new stockkeeping units could generate more than $10 million in their first year at retail.

“We were one of the first drugstores to have a proprietary fragrance line,” said Coleman. “We do have not just a special ad-

vantage knowing our customers so well, but also a commitment to be relevant to them.”

the collection will be displayed on newly designed kiosks, which will launch permanently on Sept. 1. Products will also be featured on endcaps and floor stands across CVS stores from Sept. 8 to oct. 12. Additionally, customers will be able to sample the scents via a fragrance tester Bar, a first for CVS. “Sampling and discov-ery in-store is new for us,” said Coleman. “We’re thinking a lot about her experi-ence — her experience in the store and online. With fragrance, she has to be able to try it.” to that end, the tester Bar fix-ture will be added to the top 2,200 CVS stores, while the remaining shops will have other types of sampling available.

In addition, a Web site, called essen-ceofbeauty.com, launching on Aug. 2, will offer CVS customers — 80 percent of whom are women — an “interactive scent finder” as well as interviews with the perfumers.

“for us there was white space for a sophisticated set of fragrances that were accessible,” said Coleman, adding that the new introductions come as a result of consumer research via the retailer’s 12 million Beauty Club members.

“We created four separate fragrances so we could hit different targets,” he said. “We wanted [to reach] a more sophisticat-ed consumer, someone willing to try new things at a variety of price points.”

Coinciding with the launch of the new ranges, existing best-selling essence of Beauty products, which range in price from $1.99 to $12.99, have been updated with new formulations and packaging.

“Body is a big category at CVS,” said Coleman. “Health and feeling good about yourself are so intimately tied together and beauty is key. the beauty business itself is very important to CVS.”

6 WWD friday, july 12, 2013

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CVS Updating Its In-house Fragrance Range

beauty

The new body mists.

Origins has opened its first department store counter in Mexico.

Rabanne Sees Victory as Sport

Origins Expanding Into Mexico

The Invictus bottle.

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fABrIZIo freDA has no use for conventional wisdom.

that was clear Wednesday morning when the presi-dent and chief executive of-ficer of the estée Lauder Cos. Inc. was interviewed by rose Marie Bravo in front of 142 people attending the fashion Group International’s latest tastemakers Series of talks.

exuding his trademark charm, freda also is adept at handling crowds. for more than an hour, the conversation at Manhattan’s 21 Club between him and Bravo, who is a Lauder board member and former Burberry ceo, ran the gamut from what surprised him when he joined his present company in the midst of the 2008 finan-cial meltdown to how he envi-sions the future. His answers to Bravo’s questions were analyti-cal and contemplated, sharp-ened with insight and leavened with flashes of wit.

At one point Bravo shifted gears by asking what he gained from their mutual Italian heritage.

“Italy trains you to be able to achieve difficult things in dif-ferent environments because making things happen in Italy is very difficult,” he answered to loud laughter. freda then sharpened the point. “there is a beautiful song [that says]: If you can make it in new York, you can make it anywhere. If you can make it in napoli, you can make it anywhere. new York is a walk in the park.”

He struck an unusual chord by talking about the value of diversity and the power of indi-viduals working together. freda said he always wondered why bosses seemed obsessed with strengthening their workers’ weak points. “the principle is not the principle of making people improve themselves every day,” he said. “It’s about leveraging strengths. Why do we spend so much time speak-ing about what I have to im-prove rather than leveraging my strengths that will pay out much better? We are a group of indi-viduals that work together, and each one of us has very unique strengths, very different one from another. Because we work

in teams and because we collab-orate in different ways, you cre-ate winning teams, rather than winning individuals.”

Much of the talk centered on his last five years at Lauder, and he came across as a leader who was intent on effecting change while preserving the vital es-sence. He joined Lauder a few days before the death of Lehman Brothers and the collapse of the financial market. “there is nothing better than a big crisis to make you look at a business in a different way,” he observed. “this really accelerated all the

changes that William [Lauder, executive chairman] and I want-ed to do. We were able to do that much faster and much deeper, frankly, thanks to the crisis.”

He explained that the chal-lenge he faced was to take the talent-rich Lauder, which was loaded with unique brands, and add scale, while preserving the differentiation of the brands. the answer was in creating a leadership team that gave rise to a common strategy, a heightened level of collaboration, includ-ing a more egalitarian attitude on individual compensation. While preserving the distinctive brand identities, these dynamics changed attitudes and behav-ior, he said, adding “If you don’t change the behaviors, nothing changes in any company.”

He noted that past experi-ence can provide knowledge but it also can act as an anchor, holding a business back. “the

role of leaders is to remove the anchors and project the compa-ny into the future,” freda said, making clear that he prizes a certain kind of wisdom. He said, “this wisdom to distinguish what we need to change and what we need to preserve and protect is actually the wisdom of leadership.” one tool that can be used to enhance this ability is he called “the power to listen.”

freda gave the crowd a sneak peak at a piece of a presentation he was scheduled to roll out be-fore the Lauder board the next day. the centerpiece is what he

calls the compass. Predicting the future by crunching number is mostly guesswork, he indicated. the important thing is to know in what direction the market is moving. So instead of trying to map out the next three years, the trick is to look ahead and envi-sion how the business will look in 10 years. then working back-wards towards a present course of action, like investing in China. “It’s all about determining the future and reverse engineering,” he said. “that is what the com-pass is.” He noted that an execu-tive needs two kinds of creativity —blue-sky ideation and clear-eyed analysis.

of course, the best engineer-ing can go haywire, and freda was quick to say that failure is a good teacher. But its value has limits. As if talking to his fellow Lauder executives in the room, he said, “Please fail fast and fail cheap.”

� —�P.B.

neW YorK — nearly four years after licensing his north American business to Johnson & Johnson Consumer Cos. Inc., George Korres is back in the U.S. and he is brimming with ambitious plans.

earlier this week, Korres, a cofounder of Korres natural Products, said the two com-panies had agreed to end the licensing agreement in north America, effective Dec. 28. In an interview tuesday, Korres reiterated that the breakup was amicable. “What I can say is that the relationship is great and we highly appreciate the efforts J&J has made to support the brand.”

His enthusiasm for Korres’ prospects in the U.S. were so great that he said he will person-ally plant his flag here by moving to new York to live while build-ing the American business. He said the company will continue to focus distribution on Sephora and HSn. Korres said he intends to ex-plore the distribution possibilities offered by the Internet. He also

plans on opening two freestanding stores — one in new York and the other in an undecided location. Korres previously had a store in SoHo and another in Brooklyn, but both had been closed.

the U.S. business is growing, Korres said, and he expects the brand’s American volume to equal that of his home market in Greece, eventually becoming Korres’ larg-est market globally. It is now sec-ond. While Korres said he could not discuss financial details of the deal, the company is traded on the Athens Stock exchange. the sales volume of Korres in Greece has been given as 30 million euros, or $38 million at current exchange, at wholesale. the Greek portion of the business is thought to repre-sent nearly 60 percent of Korres’ worldwide total.

While he would not comment, market sources estimate that the Korres business in the U.S. had approached $10 million in 2010.

In an earlier statement in Athens, Korres had pointed to its

international business, citing its key markets as Germany, the U.K., france, russia and Scandinavia, where the company chalked up an 18 percent sales growth in the first quarter of 2013. other areas of Korres strength are Spain and Belgium. the statement also noted that Korres had gained mar-ket share in its sorely beleaguered home market of Greece.

During the tuesday inter-view, Korres said the economy in Greece, where the company claims to have gained market share, appears to have stabilized, considering that the domestic industry increased advertising spending in May for the first time in four years of economic decline.

for J&J, the end of the deal with Korres freed the company to redeploy. “this decision will help the business focus on priority north America skin-care brands that are more of a strategic fit with our plans,” said J&J, which claims a 25 percent share of the mass treatment market. —�P.B.

WWD.COM

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Rose Marie Bravo and Fabrizio Freda

Korres and Johnson & Johnson to Part Ways

Freda on the Merits of Team Building

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“It would be very difficult to make it a meaningful wholesale brand again,” Henderson said. “Everybody has their matrixes now, [the brand has] been around, a lot of retailers don’t want to compete against lines that are already retail lines.”

While founders often want to return to the brands they built, who’s running the show at Juicy might not be as important as what the product looks like.

“Does it matter to the customer? I’m not quite sure. It’s been a while,” said Corinna Freedman, analyst at Wedbush Securities Inc., who covers Fifth & Pacific. “It tells a great story, it could be a redemption story.”

For the three months ended March 31, the Juicy brand posted net sales of $98.4 million. Adjusted losses before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization to-taled $8.3 million. Last year, the brand had sales of $498.6 million and adjusted EBITDA of $24.5 million. Paul Blum was brought in as chief executive officer last year to lead a turnaround at the brand.

While Freedman said the brand “lost its footing because of pricing and mer-chandising direction,” she still sees po-tential in the business.

“I don’t think that the brand is as impaired as some people would like to think,” she said. “There is certainly a market. There’s this anti-Forever 21 men-tality going on. The customer is making more of an investment in apparel, versus the fast-fashion commodity, buying the cheapest you can find.”

Mary Epner, who heads up Mary Epner Retail Analysis, said, “Juicy is still a great brand in spite of everything.…It

still has a loyal customer base.”Epner cited the Juicy jewelry busi-

ness as a category that has been mak-ing some headway with the younger, teen consumer.

While the matched terry sweat suit hasn’t really evolved much from the brand’s launch, Epner noted, “If some-body can come in and find the right bal-ance between a new direction coupled with an outlet strategy, that could be a winning combination.”

She also compared Juicy to Lululemon: “Consumers are interested in athletic apparel. What they want is nice-looking, comfortable apparel. They run around all day long in Lululemon. That’s what Juicy used to be. Can some-one stay in the same vein and update the look for 2014? That’s the question.”

“If anyone can turn the brand around and give it back its energy, they can,” said Gary Wassner, co-ceo of Hilldun Corp., of Juicy’s founders. “They know who they

are designing for. The product never evolved once they left the company.”

Wassner said the two could conceiv-ably work on both Juicy and their new business, Skaist-Taylor.

“Skaist-Taylor is doing nicely,” Wassner noted. “It’s a higher-end col-lection and much more fashionable in the designer category. The two brands, while they both have a touch of rock ’n’ roll, have different price points. Skaist-Taylor is at Bergdorf and Saks.” Skaist-Taylor is a Hilldun client.

Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor certain-ly caught fire once before.

The duo founded the brand in 1997 and had a runaway hit with their sig-nature velour tracksuit. Fifth & Pacific, then known as Liz Claiborne Inc. and headed by Paul Charron, bought the growing brand in 2003 for more than $230 million, including the assumption of debt and earn-out payments over several years, and helped turn it into a broader business.

Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor were copresidents of the business and transi-tioned to creative directors, eventually leaving the firm in January 2010.

While the official word was they want-ed to do other things, there were market rumblings that the two were unhappy with the direction the brand was head-ed and had reportedly had clashes with Fifth & Pacific ceo William L. McComb, who took the reins from Charron in 2006.

Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor, who are close friends, went on to found Skaist-Taylor last year.

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Juicy Founders Look to Buy Back Brand{Continued from page one}

Brooks Guilty in Cachay Murder

Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor

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NICHoLAS BRookS, the former boy-friend of swimwear designer Sylvie Cachay, was found guilty of her murder Thursday by a jury in New York State Supreme Court.

Cachay’s strangled body was found in a Soho House bathtub on Dec. 9, 2010. The 33-year-old designer and Brooks checked into the Meatpacking District hotel and private club hours before her half-clothed body was discovered sub-merged in an overflowing bathtub.

Convicted of second-degree murder, Brooks, 27, is expected to be sentenced Aug. 26 and could face up to life in prison.

Manhattan District Attorney Cyrus R. Vance Jr. said, “I hope that this verdict and the lengthy prison term the defen-dant faces lend some sense of closure to

Ms. Cachay’s loved ones.”Brooks’ attorney, Jeffrey Hoffman,

did not respond to requests for comment at press time.

Noting that 1,100 women in the U.S. were murdered by a husband or boy-friend in 2010, Vance said, “Domestic violence victims all too frequently be-come homicide victims. Sylvie Cachay suffered a terrible death at the hands of a man who claimed to love her.”

At the time of her death, Cachay worked in design for Anne Cole swim-wear. From 2006 to 2008, she ran her own swimwear label, called Syla.

Brooks is the son of Academy Award-winning “You Light Up My Life” com-poser Joseph Brooks, an accused rapist who took his own life in 2011.

� —�RosemaRy�FeitelbeRg

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NEW YORK — Jay-Z brandished his burgeoning art world bona fides on Tuesday at Pace Gallery, where his Instagram-ready video shoot-cum-performance piece drew an eclectic mix of VIPs and artists, including Marina Abramovic, who partly inspired the whole thing. For more, see page 10.

Photo by Steve eichner

MaKing WaveS: Sailor brinkley is following in the footsteps of her famous mother, christie; the 15-year-old is appearing in her first advertising campaign for accessories chain Claire’s.

The ads for back-to-school feature the younger Brinkley wearing multiple backpacks emblazoned with the names of boy bands such as One Direction and carrying colorful notebooks and change purses.

“The products at Claire’s are so fun and cool,” said Sailor. “I would definitely wear the sparkly accessories to parties and some of the bows and things to school.” She was familiar with the brand,

she said, because “I would go to Claire’s with my friends as much as I could when I was younger.”

Asked if she’d like to have a career like her mother’s, Sailor said, “I would love to be a professional model.” Christie Brinkley is protective of her teenage daughter. “It feels exciting” to have her in the business, she said, “but until Sailor is out of high school we are keeping it in perspective. Sailor is first and foremost a student. Getting a good education will remain her primary focus. But I do think modeling is a great learning experience.”

For now, Sailor and her mom discuss all of her modeling opportunities. “The benefits [of modeling] far outweigh the negatives,” the elder Brinkley said. “But like every mom, you wish you could protect your [child]. Her great sense of humor will protect her. Sailor has a good head on her shoulders so navigating her way around any negatives should be a breeze. She is, after all, named Sailor.” — Sharon edelSon

god reSt ye, Wary: Lest doubt remained, the commercial secularization of Christmas is complete, never mind that its original Birthday Boy was a turn-the-other-cheek kind of guy. On Thursday, the storied British firm Holland & Holland e-mailed invitations to “Our ‘Christmas in July’ media event…Location: Holland & Holland’s New York Gun Room.” Happy Hunting! — WWd Staff

hUgS froM lily: lily aldridge is following in the footsteps of tyra banks, christy turlington, helena christensen, amber valletta, claudia Schiffer and, most recently, erin heatherton as the face of the XOXO ad

campaign. Laspata Decaro, the New York ad agency, created the “Hugs and Kisses XOXO” campaign in the early Nineties. The fall campaign, also developed by Laspata Decaro and photographed by rocco laspata in New York, features the 27-year-old Aldridge in various sexy outfits with the words “Hugs and Kisses XOXO, Lily Aldridge.”

Ads will launch in the September issues

of InStyle and Cosmopolitan. In addition, there will be digital, social and taxi TV ads supporting the campaign. The fall budget is up 20 percent versus a year ago, according to an XOXO spokeswoman.

A Victoria’s Secret Angel, Aldridge also has her own apparel collection, called Lily Aldridge for Velvet. — liSa locKWood

Reasonable Clout

Sailor brinkley in an image from claire’s Web site.

lily aldridge in the XoXo ad campaign.

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10 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2013

IN THE LAST several years Jay-Z, having reached his 40s with a net worth of half a billion dollars, give or take, and possessing the clout of a small multinational corporation, has gone the way of many a Master of the Universe before him. He has enlisted some top-notch consultants and cracked that highest strata of consumer culture, the contemporary art market.

Or, as the younger and lesser-known rapper Wale put it at New York’s Pace Gallery on Wednesday afternoon: “It’s the evolution of a man. You go from like shoes and jewelry to cars and homes to traveling and now it’s art. You know what I’m saying? It’s natural. It’s not forced, like his friends are into this s--t.”

Wale was but one in a cast of thousands (well, 1,588 official RSVPs, according to one staffer on set) at the white-wall space for the six-hour video shoot for Jay’s “Picasso Baby.” The song, from his just-released 12th solo album, “Magna Carta...Holy Grail,” is a celebration of Jay-Z’s headfirst dive of late into the art world. It begins with the line, “I just want a Picasso, in my casa...” and builds on the theme until he is instructing his young daughter that it is OK to lean on the Basquiat in the kitchen; they own it. Occasionally he wonders about the addictive nature of collecting and the passing nature of ownership, but the boasts comparing his home to the Tate or the Louvre are the main attraction. And from the sound of things, he knows it. There is a pretty funny wordplay involving turkey bacon and Francis Bacon.

Not content to merely consume and brag, on Wednesday Jay-Z was making his own performance art. With the help of gallerist Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn, the veteran music video director Mark Romanek and several p.r. firms and/or casting agencies, the rapper planned a six-hour repetitive performance of the song at the gallery. An edited version of the performance will eventually serve as the song’s video.

The setup was indebted to Marina Abramovic’s marathon staring contest at the Museum of Modern Art in 2010. Jay-Z, standing on a small raised platform wearing jeans, a white short-sleeve Theory button up and gold chain, would perform the song to one person at a time on a bench until a security guard tapped the viewer out and another stepped in. The production company shuffled in a new audience every hour or so, at which point everyone took a 20-minute break. The spectators were meant to be a representative sample of the art world peppered with a host of street style-

savvy twenty- and thirtysomethings. When their number was up,

each viewer could apparently do whatever they pleased. At the end of each performance, Jay would call the whole iPhone-waving crowd in around him in a bouncy circle. The proceedings had a loose air about them, which was unexpected for a semipublic event involving a top-10 world recognizable pop star.

Among the artists, Mickalene Thomas performed what appeared to be a modified shadowboxing routine; Dustin Yellin break danced; Ryan McNamara handpicked 10, 11 and then 14 audience members ringing the space to break the rope line and join him; Marilyn Minter did a mom-at-a-wedding dance; Lawrence Weiner just sat and watched. As for the other VIPs, Judd Apatow plopped there with the galleys of the new Andres Dubus 3rd novel like he was waiting for the bus; the actor Adam Driver looked on stoically while New York Times critic Jon Caramanica stood on the bench next to him; Jemima Kirke shook her hair and gave some sass back. She did not cry, as she had in an Internet-famous photo of her attending the Abramovic MoMA show.

At around 3:15 p.m. Abramovic herself showed up and a weird hush took over the gallery. The song began once again and she approached the bench, taking her shoes off then belt along the way. Her arms were spread at her sides. Once she got close enough to Jay-Z, she pushed her forehead into his every chance she got. If it seemed a touch melodramatic, it also made for the first time all day he appeared at least a little uncomfortable. It begged the question: How often on any given day could Jay-Z possibly feel uncomfortable? She gave him a great big hug at the end.

“How did it look?” she asked when finished.

WWD offered that he had looked slightly cramped.

“I don’t care,” she said. “I can touch him. I can do anything — art is [the] true spirit.”

Around 6 p.m., as the production was beginning to wind down, Diana Widmaier Picasso, a New York-based art historian and Pablo Picasso’s granddaughter, took her place on the bench and quietly looked on.

Asked later for her assessment, she noted that Jay-Z had both “an incredible charisma and a very light presence somehow.”

WWD asked if she thought he had known who she was.

“No,” Widmaier Picasso laughed. “But I knew.”

— MATTHEW LYNCH

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AMERICAN EAGLE SIGNS ON: American Eagle Outfitters Inc. has chosen not to side with the majority of its U.S. retail counterparts in addressing safety issues in Bangladesh’s garment industry. Instead, it is set today to join the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh led by IndustriALL Global Union and more than 70 mainly European brands and retailers, according to Unite Here and other labor groups. There are four North American brands and retailers that have signed the IndustriALL accord.

“American Eagle did not source from the factories where the calamities occurred, but as a significant buyer of Bangladeshi apparel, the company can play an important role in protecting worker safety and preventing future tragedies,” read a press advisory from Unite Here, the International Labor Rights Forum and the National Garment Workers Federation of Bangladesh.

American Eagle has chosen the five-year, legally binding accord over a separate plan launched by a group of North American retailers and apparel brands called the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, which unveiled its own accord in Washington on Wednesday. — KRISTI ELLIS

SELF-PORTRAIT: A shot from the advertising campaign for her new fall fragrance, Rogue, shows a contemplative-looking Rihanna with a half-shaved hairstyle and glowing skin. The campaign, which will appear in September, was photographed by Mario Sorrenti and styled by Mel Ottenberg at Highline Stages. With soft, smoky makeup by Lucia Pieroni and edgy hairdo by Yusef Williams, the ad is billed as a study in self expression and contrast. “People are always changing and evolving and with Rogue I wanted to switch it up to reflect who I am today,” said the currently blonde songbird. “I made it for all women, for every mood, because we all want to project our true selves.”

The Rogue scent, available in September at Macy’s, Dillard’s and Belk, is a “flirty, sensual Oriental” blend of lemon blossom, cyclamen, jasmine, rose, plum and suede over a musky base of woods, patchouli, vanilla and amber. Housed in a glass flacon with inverted spikes at the base, prices will range from $18 for a roller ball to $69 for a 4.2-oz. bottle. Limited-edition accessories — a stingray clutch, stingray leather zip-around bag and studded fashion bracelets, will be offered as gifts with purchase.

— BELISA SILVA

THE LIMITED, QUINQUAGENARIAN: Half a century is a long time for any company to stay in business, let alone one that relies on sartorial trends. The Limited, which marks its 50 anniversary in the fall, is celebrating the milestone by donating a portion of sales of commemorative items, including a gold clutch with a 50th anniversary logo charm and a 14-karat gold-plated bracelet with a logo bar, both $50, to Dress for Success.

The retailer’s advertising and marketing campaign, including a microsite that went live this week, is customer-centric. “We want the client to feel a part of the celebration so we’re asking her opinion in a couple of campaigns we’ll release over the next five months,” said Elliot Staples, senior vice president of design. “We want to make sure this campaign celebrates our client.”

In one poll, customers will be asked to choose their favorite of three dresses. Once the voting closes, The Limited will rush the winning design into production. “We may end up putting the other two into production as well,” Staples said. “If the votes are close, it means the consumer likes a few of them. We’re getting all the fabrics lined up so we can push the button after she votes.”

Consumers will be encouraged to submit stories to the “Talk is Chic” section of the Web site. Topics can be life lessons, advice for women or commemorative life moments. The Limited will donate $1 for every story it receives to Dress for Success. Finally, customers will be asked to vote for a store in one of three cities where in late October a celebratory event will be held. One customer will be selected though a drawing to attend the event. “It will be a major location,” Staples said. “But it’s very important that we celebrate all 259 of our stores to commemorate and rededicate our brands.”

Staples described The Limited as “still being on that journey,” referring to the company’s sale by Limited Brands in 2007 to Sun Capital Partners and its development since. “[The business] has been changing and building for the last six or seven years,” Staples said. “We edit trends and make them understandable and pertinent for the customer. She’s changing in terms of what she wants. Our niche is the career woman. But the business wardrobe is very different than it was 10 years ago. It’s more casual.”

The Limited intends to evolve with its customer for another 50 years. “We’re changing as her expectations are changing,” Staples said. “We’re showing her options.” — SHARON EDELSON

FUND MEMORIES: Being a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, let alone winner or runner-up, has multiple benefits, and on Wednesday afternoon, Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David

Neville discussed the impact the program — now in its 10th year — had on their label. The designers, who were finalists in 2006, were hosting the announcement of this year’s final 10 at their studio in New York’s Meatpacking District. “The fund made a great difference to the evolution of our brand and the trajectory of where we were going,” Neville told the crowd, which included Anna Wintour, Steven Kolb, Thakoon Panichgul, Prabal Gurung, Hannah

Bronfman, Robert Geller, Pamela Love and Ken Downing. “We had managed to get the business to a reasonable size just on our own backs, and then the fund, and what happened around that time, gave us a lot of confidence to build out what we have today.” As Wainwright put it, “Pretty much everything good that has happened to Rag & Bone has happened since then.”

More recently, this included a trip to Beijing as part of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s Americans in China fashion show, which also featured Marchesa and Proenza Schouler.

As for the new set of finalists, the selection committee did not take the choices lightly. “It was a spirited debate this morning,” Wainwright said of the meeting earlier that day to determine the crop of designers up for the prize.

— MARC KARIMZADEH

FAN FARE: Levi’s continues celebrating its 501 jeans’ 140th anniversary. Following an exhibition at Los Angeles’ Ace Museum earlier this year,

the San Francisco-based denim giant released a book commemorating how celebrities, trendsetters and fans are remixing the denim classic.

Titled “Levi’s 501 Interpretations,” the tome features 501 photos. VIPs such as Kate Bosworth, Anna Kendrick and Steven Alan were photographed wearing 501s. It also includes portraits submitted by fans, including Hirofumi Kurino, chief creative adviser of Japanese retailer United Arrows, and Menno van Meurs, cofounder of Amsterdam’s Tenue de Nîmes denim store.

Fittingly, only 501 books were produced. “Levi’s 501 Interpretations” will be sold starting Aug. 1 at the brand’s largest locations worldwide and on levi.com. Priced at $55, each

numbered edition features a unique cover image and comes in a custom-made linen slipcase. — LAURE GUILBAULT

MODEL CHILD: Ralph Lauren’s fall Purple Label men’s campaign will feature a face that is both familiar and familial, at least to the designer. Andrew Lauren, his oldest son, will appear in ads, WWD has learned. While few details were available, the fall images mark the second time Andrew Lauren has been in one of his father’s campaigns. (He once modeled in RRL’s adverts.) Andrew Lauren has been keeping busy. In addition to this stint, he produced the soon-to-be-released comedy-drama film “The Spectacular Now,” based on Tim Tharp’s novel of the same name and directed by James Ponsoldt. — M.K.

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WWD.COMWWD FRIDAY, JULY 12, 201312

MICK JAGGER is a man who keeps his nostalgia in check — it’s there all right, but more as a gesture to his fans than anything else.

He and the Rolling Stones performed in London’s Hyde Park last weekend for the first time since their famed July 1969 concert there, popularly known as “Stones in the Park,” and will be playing an encore Saturday night. But his return to the venue after 44 years hasn’t made him wistful about his younger self, the 25-year-old clad in a white tunic top reciting stanzas of Shelley’s poem “Adonais” before the Stones’ set in a tribute to guitarist Brian Jones, who had died two days prior.

“It’s a different part of the park, the stage is really different,” Jagger said in a telephone interview earlier this week. “[Last weekend] could have been another show, if you know what I mean. But it did evoke some memories when we drove into the park.”

And while he may not be misty-eyed about his return, Jagger was determined to put on a show that in some ways echoed the 1969 performance. He and L’Wren Scott, his girlfriend who designed all of his costumes for the 50 & Counting tour which kicked off in November, came up with a series of new outfits for the Stones’ performances this summer at Hyde Park and Glastonbury. To wit, Scott designed a butterfly jacket in homage to the hundreds of cabbage white butterflies the band released before their 1969 concert. The black embroidered and beaded jacket features colored butterfly designs — large and small. Thanks to lighting and special effects during the show, it looks as if the creatures are flying off Jagger’s jacket.

“I wanted to have something really magical and interesting,” said Scott. “I was really obsessed by phantom butterflies — you see them at night and they are kind of iridescent blue and green and white.”

The famous tunic top also got a new lease of life — in lightweight taffeta.

“We did the shirt-waisted kind of thing, which is the copy of the

1969 one, which I knew I had in orange. The white one I lost — or someone nicked it,” Jagger said. “We did a copy of it. We didn’t know when or where we were going to wear it, but that was a reflection of [the original one].”

For Glastonbury, the annual music festival in the Somerset countryside, which the Stones played for the first time in June, Scott and Jagger took a more pastoral turn.

“We started to think about the Glastonbury show and I said to her that [I wanted] something very English — an oak leaf. That’s where we started from in the Glastonbury show, nobody [in the audience] realized they were really oak leaves [on the jacket] — but I did,” said Jagger.

Even if Glastonbury’s crowd of thousands didn’t (or couldn’t)

notice every detail on the

jacket, the design meant a lot to Jagger. “Yes, it’s important. Most people just think it’s a bright green jacket, but if you look you can see. Glastonbury is an essentially English event,” he said.

Scott said she had originally wanted to do something around a leaf motif for Glastonbury. “So I did some tests of embroidery of leaves and I showed [Mick] a drawing with an embroidery or visual attached,” she said. “He loved the leaf idea, and I said it’s kind of like a ‘glamouflage.’

“We were joking about the glamouflage at Glastonbury, and he said ‘Well I want it to be oak leaf.’ So if you look at it closely you see the oak leaves — it’s quite cool,” said Scott of the sequin-embroidered jacket in emerald green, khaki and black. “It just felt very right for Glasto, to open the show with a very outdoorsy feel — and the crowd was incredible.”

For Saturday, other looks Jagger is due to wear include the big gorilla coat that Scott designed for the tour, a floor-length number covered with hand-embroidered ostrich feathers and lined in metallic bordeaux lace, a reference to the Walton Ford gorilla design on the band’s latest album cover. There’s also an embroidered jacket inspired by the paintings of Gustav Klimt, made from silk, gold leather and metallic threads. Scott said she knew it would be ideal for an outdoor summer performance because of the setting sun’s rays would hit it and make it glow even more.

“I said, ‘Look it’s going to be beautiful because you have the gold in the light, and it’s not going to be nighttime when you go on stage, and this is going to have so much stage value and light.’ I [also] made him a special python belt that he wore — in gold,” said Scott.

Saturday’s concert in Hyde Park marks the end of the tour, although it remains to be seen whether it will really wrap up.

“My studio has the joke ‘And counting…’ because they are still counting every time I say we have to make a few more things. Mick really knew what ‘And Counting’ actually meant,” Scott said.

So there may be more to come. No matter what happens, Jagger said he’s had fun with his vast, glittering wardrobe by Scott.

“I got to wear all the clothes we made, which was fun from our point of view — just switching around all the outfits every night in different places, wearing them here — but not there,” Jagger said.

His highlights included the very first show when he appeared in the black-and-white “zigzag swag” jacket that took its design cue from the matching houndstooth jackets the Rolling Stones were asked to wear for a TV gig in England in 1964.

“There was this really beautiful velvet jacket, really romantic with these gold epaulets, which I only wore a couple of times because I thought it was so romantic. Glastonbury was definitely a highlight and then Hyde Park. There were a lot of highlights for me,” he said.

And, no, he’s not flagging — at least not yet. “I have to do another show on Saturday, so I can’t feel tired now. I’m not allowed to be exhausted on the Tuesday,” he said. “I’ll have to be exhausted on Sunday.” — SAMANTHA CONTI

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Mick Jagger performing on tour wearing the gorilla coat.

Jagger performing in the oak-leaf-inspired jacket.

Jagger performing in the Gustav Klimt-

inspired jacket.

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